How to install an interior door with your own hands without. How to install a door yourself - detailed instructions. Materials and tools

There are many installation options depending on the approach of the master and the tools at hand. We will look at one of the most simple methods without the use of special equipment, which is available to everyone.

1. Prepare tools and materials

• Door leaf and frame.
• Platband and additional strips.
• Universal butterfly hinges, handle and lock.
• Saw, screwdriver and drill bits.
• Pencil, awl and knife.
• Chisel and hammer.
• Level, tape measure and wedges.
• Screws, nails, .

2. Remove the old door

If you insert new door, rather than replacing the old one, move on to the next step.

Remove the door leaf from the hinges and disassemble the door frame. Clean the opening from any remaining plaster and other debris.

This is necessary so that you don’t have to bother with narrowing or, conversely, widening the opening. Standard sizes doors - 2 m high and 60, 70, 80 or 90 cm wide. Double doors are usually combined from two panels. For example, 120 cm is 60 + 60.

Since the leaf is installed in the door frame, and even with gaps for polyurethane foam, the opening should be a little larger. As a rule, 8–10 cm. This includes the thickness of the frame and all necessary clearances.

• Measure the width of the opening and choose a canvas 8–10 cm narrower.
• Measure the height of the opening from the finished floor and make sure that it is 6–9 cm greater than the height of the door.
• Take measurements in several places and take into account the smallest result. For example, if the width of the opening at the bottom is 89 cm, in the middle - 91 cm, and at the top - 90 cm, then the width should be considered equal to 89 cm.

4. Decide on the opening and hanging side

If the canvas is installed flush with the wall in the corridor, then it will open into the passage. If there is a wall in the room, then the door will open there. Think about what is more convenient and take this point into account.

To open to the right, the hinges must be hung on the right side, and to open to the left, on the left. To avoid mistakes, stand opposite and imagine that you are opening it towards yourself. If it has glass, then the matte side should face the corridor, and the glossy side should face the room.

5. Unpack the door

Remove the packaging by hand or carefully open the film with a knife. Cut not on the front surface, but on the back surface, so as not to damage the coating. Leave one of the side cardboards: it will serve as a lining and protect the end of the canvas from scratches during operation.

6. Hang the hinges

If you are installing a door for the first time, it is better to use butterfly hinges. They are universal and suitable for both right-hand and left-hand drives. But the most important thing is that they do not need to be cut into the box, which is very convenient for non-professionals.

• Place the door on its edge front side towards you, placing a piece of cardboard.
• Measure 250 mm from the edge of the canvas and make a mark with a pencil - this will be the center of the loop.
• Place the closed loop on the canvas with the side where the holes in the small part are chamfered.
• To determine where to screw in the screws, mark the centers with an awl and carefully drill holes with a diameter of 2–2.5 mm.
• Screw in one of the screws. It will secure the loop and make marking easier.
• Mark all the holes in this way and screw in the screws.
• Remember: the small part of the hinge is attached to the door leaf, and the large part is attached to the door frame.
• Repeat the same procedure for the second loop.

7. Embed the lock

• Turn the canvas over so that the loops are on the floor, and the opposite side, where the lock will stand, is at the top.
• Position it correctly - in the center of the door. The square hole for the handle should be at the top, and the beveled part of the latch should be directed towards the closure. If necessary, the tongue can be easily turned over by simply pulling with your fingers.
• Measure the length and width of the lock mounting plate, as well as the thickness of the door. Make a mark and place the bar strictly in the center of the canvas.
• Unfold the lock reverse side and apply it to the door. Mark the center of the location of the mounting holes, drill, and screw in the screws.
• Trace the plank along the contour with a pencil and carefully cut the film with a sharp knife to clearly mark the boundaries of the selection for installation and not damage the edge.
• Remove the lock and separate the cut film from the canvas with a chisel.
• Attach the mechanism to the door, aligning it with the planned location, and mark the width of the body. Measure the thickness of the lock at its widest point and mark it on the canvas.
• Draw boundary lines 2 mm from the edges of the groove on both sides.
• Using a drill with a diameter of 6–7 mm, make holes along the contour of the hole for the lock mechanism. To use the maximum area, arrange the holes in a checkerboard pattern. Act carefully and do not protrude beyond the boundaries of the markings.
• Slowly cut off the drilled wood with a chisel and trim the edges of the groove so that the lock fits freely, but does not dangle.
• Use a chisel to remove the wood little by little until the mounting strip is flush with the wood. Check by applying the lock with the back side rather than pushing it into place - otherwise it will be difficult to remove.
• Place the lock on the side and use a pencil to mark a square hole for the pen shaft. Make a mark on both sides and remember that this figure should be on top and not below when the door is installed.
• Insert a piece of wood inside the groove as a support and use a drill with a diameter of 20 mm on one side and then on the other.
• Place the lock in place and secure it with screws, having previously drilled holes for them.

8. Assemble the door frame

• Place the side posts of the door frame along the edges of the door to avoid confusion. They should be facing a quarter towards the door hinge. That is, you should see the seals.
• Calculate the height of the post for proper trimming. It consists of the size of the leaf (2,000 mm), the gap between the frame and the door (3 mm), the thickness of the frame itself (22–25 mm) and the gap between the leaf and the floor (8–22 mm). The lower threshold is made only in bathrooms; in other cases, a gap is left for carpets and other coverings.
• Calculate the width cross bar door frame. To do this, add 6 mm to the width of the door leaf, so that you end up with a gap of 3 mm on each side.
• Carefully cut all planks to size. It's better to use a miter saw, but you can also use a fine-tooth hacksaw.
• Remove the quarters on the side posts to mate with the top rail. To do this, move the seals to the side, make cuts with a saw, and then chop off the interfering pieces with a chisel. Use scraps of the box as a template for greater accuracy.
• Trim the rubber seals on the side posts at a 45-degree angle to avoid an unsightly gap after assembly.
• Place the frame strips together, align the edges and fasten with screws. Pre-drill holes for screws and screw two into each rack. Use box scraps for precise markings.

9. Hang the panel on the door frame

• Place the door frame on the floor and carefully place the panel in it. Place 3mm thick fiberboard pieces around the perimeter to form an equal gap.
• Mark the top of each hinge on the frame with a pencil.
• Remove the screws from the side post and “open” it up on its hinges. To prevent the canvas from falling, place the cuttings of the box underneath it on top and bottom.
• Align the top of the hinge with the mark on the frame and use an awl to mark the centers of the screw holes. Screw in the screws, having previously drilled holes for the fasteners.
• Repeat the procedure for the second loop and fasten it.
• “Close” the box and reassemble it, attaching it to the top bar with screws.

10. Place the box with the canvas in the opening

• Lift the hinged door and insert it into the opening. Align the canvas with the wall using wedges as spacers. You can buy them or cut them yourself. Insert one wedge into small gaps, two into large ones, turning them towards each other. This is necessary for accuracy of adjustment.
• Align the post with the hinges first, then the rest. Apply a level and recess or pull out the door to achieve a strictly vertical position. If the wall is blocked, the canvas still needs to be leveled so that it can be easily closed and opened.
• Using pieces of fiberboard or other templates, create 3 mm gaps around the perimeter between the leaf and the door frame. Place them opposite each other. This will avoid deformation of the frame while the polyurethane foam hardens.
• Place a level on the edge of the door or two pieces of fiberboard and make sure the door is perfectly vertical.
• Fill the gaps between the door frame and the wall with foam, starting at the bottom and moving up. Use high-quality foam with a low expansion coefficient so that it does not deform the box as it hardens and increases in volume.
• If the gap is large, for example, above the top bar, then fill the space gradually, moving the gun up and down with a snake. Do not fill the foam flush with the wall - it is better to leave a small gap, the composition will fill it after hardening.

11. Check for correct installation

• Not earlier than a day later, cut off the protruding polyurethane foam. It is easy to check the hardening: it will become very dense, and from the cut piece it will be clear that the material is homogeneous.
• Carefully remove the fiberboard and wedges. Check all gaps - they should be the same. And also the correct installation: when opening, the canvas remains in one position, without moving in different directions.

12. Mount the lock handles and strike plate

• Using the supplied hexagon, loosen the locking screws at the bottom of both handles and insert the square rod into them until it stops. Attach assembled structure to door. The distance between the handles should be less than the thickness of the blade. If it is larger, shorten the rod slightly with a hacksaw or grinder.
• Remove the decorative rosettes from the handles by unscrewing them counterclockwise along the threads. Insert the handles into their places so that the locking screw is at the bottom, and mark the locations for fastening with a pencil. Drill holes and screw in screws. Replace the decorative rosettes.
• Close the door and mark the top and bottom of the latch on the frame with a pencil. Measure the distance from the edge of the canvas to the outside of the tongue. Mark this measurement on the frame and draw a line to the latch boundary marks.
• Turn the striker over and align it with the center of the tongue mark. Drill holes and screw in screws to secure the strip to the frame. Trace the contours with a pencil and cut the film with a sharp knife, as you did with the lock.
• Remove the bar and use a small drill to make holes along the contour of the future groove for the latch, and use a chisel to make a hole. It’s okay if the sample slightly protrudes beyond the boundaries of the marks; after installing the bar, all the gaps will close.
• Using a chisel, carefully remove the film along the outer contour of the striker to make it flush with the door frame. Secure the strip in place with screws. Check: if everything is done correctly, the closed door does not hang loose.

They are mounted from the side of the room when the width of the door frame pillars does not allow covering the entire thickness of the opening. Additional strips are inserted into the frame and attached to the wall with foam, and later trims are nailed onto them.

If your frame thickness matches the dimensions doorway, go straight to the next step.

• Use a chisel to cut off the pieces protruding from the sides of the frame and use a chisel to keep them out of the way. Remove any remaining foam around the perimeter of the door frame.
• Measure the width of the opening and cut the top trim to the appropriate size. Attach it to the desired place and, if it protrudes beyond the boundaries of the opening, mark with a pencil and remove the excess part. Insert the trimmed board into the box, level it and secure it with wedges on the sides.
• In the same way, measure, cut and fit the side trim strips. Reinstall them and align them.
• Apply a continuous strip of foam at the junction of the door frame and the top and sides. At the outer edge of the additional strip, fill the joint with the wall with small strips. Do not fill the entire space with foam, otherwise it will expand and deform the extension.

14. Stuff the trim

• Using a sharp knife, cut off the foam protruding beyond the plane of the door frame.
• Attach the platband to the frame from the side of the hinges close to them and see what the gap is until inner edge boxes. The same distance must be maintained around the entire perimeter on other trims.
• The joints of the top and side trim strips can be made at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. If you don't have it at hand miter saw and you are installing a door for the first time - it is better to go with the second option. It's much simpler.
• Install the side strip, pressing it against the hinges, and nail it with nails in increments of 20–25 cm. Do not hammer them in completely and do not forget to first make a hole in the platband with a drill of a smaller diameter than the nail.
• Attach the second side strip and, having maintained the required gap, make a mark with a pencil and cut off the excess to required length. Nail the platband with nails as before.
• Try on the top bar, cut it to size and fasten it. Important! It should not lie on the sides, but be between them. In this case, the cut end of the upper casing will be hidden.
• Using the same principle, fill the trim on the other side of the door. If additional strips are installed, then align the edges of the platbands with them. If there are no additions, maintain the same gap around the perimeter of the door frame as on the opposite side.

U The installation of interior doors in an apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, about mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate installation and cost a pretty penny!

You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, avoid mistakes in choosing doors, fittings and opening sizes, and help the craftsmen do everything efficiently.

Door opening dimensions

• Opening width

The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).

• Opening height

For all cases, the correct height of the opening is the height of the door leaf + 6cm. from the finished floor, that is, 206 cm. Doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.

Here are some examples of correct openings:

• Canvas 80x200 (cm.) - opening 89x206 (cm.)
• 70x200 - opening 79x206
• 60x200 - opening 69x206
• 60x190 - opening 69x196

With dimensions doorways you need to decide in advance and it is very important to constantly monitor your team during the repair process.

Door widths for different rooms

If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:

• doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide so that furniture can be brought in/out. Width 90cm. This happens very rarely because such canvases are heavy and can sag on their hinges over time.
• bathroom doors are usually made 60-70cm so that the door can easily pass through washing machine 60cm thick. Keep in mind that 60cm. The door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58 cm. due to the recesses in the door frame.
• door leaf for the kitchen they usually make 70-80cm. It is also necessary to take into account that handles on both sides may interfere with passage into the kitchen.
• V dressing room Usually they make the width 60-70cm.

When is it necessary to install extensions?

When installing interior doors, if the thickness of the wall is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail the trim on the other side of the wall.

If you install it, it will be good decision, which will beautifully decorate the slopes. The color of the additions can be selected, for example, to match the MDF panel.

The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions need to be joined in width or order non-standard extensions from production, which will cost much more.

Which side of the door should the extensions be installed on?

It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the frame is placed flush with the room wall, and the extension will be in the corridor.

If you do the opposite, the door will not open completely (it will hit the door). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.

Scheme for opening interior doors

Usually, if in one corridor some doors open into the corridor, and some open into rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the characteristics of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time one opens inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trims will not match.

This is what the door looks like from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, towards us:
This is what the door looks like that opens into the room, that is, inward:
It is necessary to ensure that the cloth does not cover the switch when torn off. It is very desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. In the bathroom, it is necessary to provide an opening of 180 degrees for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.

Make sure that a door opened 90 degrees does not block the opening of an adjacent door.

In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the craftsmen during installation, make a drawing diagram on a piece of paper in advance.

At what height from the floor should the door be?

The standard height is 1 cm from the finished floor. As for bathroom doors, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm, so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows, do not forget to do supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the air humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.

Installation of interior doors during apartment renovation and the sequence of work stages.

In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity when carrying out repairs, it is necessary to do installation after ALL finishing works, including in neighboring rooms.

Early installed doors may be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tile or wallpaper adhesive, especially plaster, dry quite quickly long time, releasing moisture into the room. Increasing the humidity above 70% for several days increases the risk that the doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell and stop closing properly.

However, if you like to bathe or shower frequently, humidity does not pose any threat, since the bathroom is quickly ventilated.

Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!

Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and it is easier to install them later, with a clear connection of the platbands to the floor.

If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to place the floor covering under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower gap of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future covering, especially if the floor has not been leveled.

If you did everything correctly and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door posts and slide in a new covering. In this case, the racks will not lower but will remain hanging.

What to do if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the frame?

A common mistake made by repair teams is openings that are too high, because the maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, or better yet, 206 cm. from the floor covering.

Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is explained by the fact that many customers make heated floors and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair and a situation arose when the upper casing does not cover the opening.

Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, but there is no way to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but usually they are installed on the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening using drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.

Another option: if the platbands are flat in shape, saw off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut from extensions that are wider. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the platband, and that if you do all the doors in the apartment this way, it will look a little wild)).

If the opening is wider than required by at least 2-3 cm on the sides, the foam seam will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the mounting foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.

Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden beam with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the repair stage using foam blocks and tile adhesive.

How to straighten a crooked doorway?

First, you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps/depressions by attaching a long rule, a plank or a flat board to the wall. Humps are especially common closer to the floor. Even one small hump will prevent the platband from fitting tightly to the wall.

To solve this problem there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you don’t want or can’t level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50cm wide) and glue the wallpaper.

Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be smooth and strictly vertical. If the opening is crooked, the walls are inclined, there are humps or depressions, act according to the circumstances.

If you understand that the opening is crooked and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm, you can level the walls with plaster according to the beacons, aligning them vertically and re-gluing the wallpaper. As you already understand, this is the best and most difficult solution!

How to install a door in a crooked opening?

But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is blocked from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:

• Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the trim will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and will probably close on its own, slam, etc.
• Install the box vertically in level, with the platbands adjacent in the upper part and moving away from the wall by the amount of deviation of the wall from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
• Buy a door with telescopic platbands and install it straight, slightly deeper into the wall and, where necessary, pulling the platbands out of the grooves. This good decision problems, unless you need to open the door 180 degrees, since opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will tear out the hinges.

The choice is yours, in all cases there are disadvantages and there are advantages, because it is a compromise.

What if the door is located close to the wall?

In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the platbands and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But by reducing the width of the platbands, we still spoil appearance doors, see photo: However, there are several other options to solve this problem:

1. If the renovation has already been done and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can screw it to such a wall wooden beam cross-section 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more). It becomes possible to install an entire platband close to the wall.
2. Extend the doorway by at least 5 cm from the wall and cut the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a short distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
3. During the renovation stage, increase the doorway by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm wider, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..

Installing an interior threshold

The door leaf is located in the opening closer to the part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covers the joint of the floor when closed door should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:

A common mistake made by repair crews is incorrect placement of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a diagram in advance for opening all the doors and give it to the foreman before laying the finished floors.

Installation of interior doors in the bathroom

For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors with a height of 2 meters. For bathrooms in new houses, a 1m high sheet is often required. 90cm. due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this point and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, as an option, you can shorten the door.

If you increase the height of the opening, then the top mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from the bottom, the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.

A common mistake is making a threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, as the aesthetics and ventilation of the wet room are disrupted, and in the future, mold may appear.

Preparing interior door openings

Polyurethane foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust at the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the opening walls if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum/aerated concrete blocks.

If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be sealed with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the craftsman does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for fastening the door frame are drilled between these cavities into the lintels.

If the walls of the opening are made of plasterboard, then in the metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening Necessarily you need to lay a dry wooden block. It is needed for reliable fastening of doors with self-tapping screws through hinges and a counterpart, and it also imparts rigidity to the walls in the area of ​​the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term use and will quickly sag.

If inside metal profile the block is laid and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Peeling may occur over time. To avoid this, strips of gypsum board or gypsum board or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.

It is not allowed to leave voids between sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the top box is often very bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.

Preparing the opening for sliding doors

For those who want to install sliding doors opening height for standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands for the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.

At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden beam with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of approximately 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.

Finishing a doorway (portal) in an apartment

If you don’t want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in a small apartment, so it is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: hall and living room, corridor and dining room, living room and small kitchen. A doorway without a traditional door surprisingly transforms a room:

Preparing the flooring before installing doors

A common mistake made by repair teams when laying floor coverings is when the gap between floor covering and the wall in the area of ​​the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of ​​platbands.

A recess (groove) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansion of the floor covering.

Storing doors after purchase

To avoid deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, box beams and platbands must be stored on flat surface lying down. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.

Doors, trims and frames can change their sizes after changes in humidity. Due to the build-up of humidity after cold weather, it is necessary to store the door and molding indoors for several days before installation. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.

Which loops to choose?

• If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg, then it is optimal to buy 2 loops 10 cm high
• If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg, then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
• If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm each. height

The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of play are very important. If the metal thickness of the hinge is 3 mm, then these are good hinges; a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass or steel. Most common door hinges There are several types:

• universal hinges- these are traditional, familiar to all of us mortise hinges. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental issue, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.

• - not mortise, overhead hinges. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for their special unusual design - both of its elements, when open, resemble butterfly wings. In the process of closing door leaf one part of the loop easily fits into the other, forming a single whole. Typically, such hinges are installed on lightweight doors.

• — time-tested mortise hinges; a door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the door opening

How to choose locks and latches?

It is best to choose locks and latches based on the quietest operation of the mechanisms when opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought more expensive and preferably Italian, there are very quality options. Don't skimp on them so as not to suffer later.

Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, so you should first ask knowledgeable people(not sellers), and do not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then suddenly it will start making noise. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers know these models well.

You can buy classic latches/locks. It would be best to choose them with plastic tongues, as they are the quietest in operation and do not clank like metal ones.

Sometimes it happens that the new latch is difficult to operate. In this case, place a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tongue.

Door handle height from floor

For Europe - 95 cm. Nowadays many symmetrical doors are produced, in which the handle, according to the design of the door, should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard handle height for Russia is 1 meter.

Almost all models door handles The kit includes self-tapping screws that are too long, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw handles with their own self-tapping screws.

How to choose the right specialist to install an interior door and check the quality of his work?

How to make the right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done efficiently if the door installer has doubts? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.

How to check the work of a door installation technician?

1. Look at the quality of the insertion of locks, the joints of the frame and platbands, and the insertion of hinges. There should be no gaps
2. The lock tongue should fit into the strike plate without play.
3. The canvas should evenly fit along its entire length to the rebate or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed by the canvas.
4. The gaps between the door and the frame must be even along the entire length.
5. The box is fixed in the opening not only by construction foam, but also with the help of fasteners
6. The canvas should not close or open on its own.
7. The fittings must rotate freely
8. The price may rise only due to the increased volume of work that cannot be foreseen in advance.

How to choose a door installation specialist? Basic methods.

1. The master must highly specialize in installing doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (at a friend’s apartment). The master or team must have at least 1 year of experience and provide professional equipment: a miter saw, a sawing table or a manual one. Circular Saw, milling cutters, screwdriver, drill, hammer drill, hairpin gun with compressor, templates for fittings, etc. Read

With installation interior door Almost any novice craftsman with minimal experience in handling a level and a hacksaw can handle it. No special skills are required here. It is quite possible to install a door block in your home yourself. You just need to measure everything correctly before installation, and during the assembly process, make sure that no distortions occur.

So that it serves for many years, properly performing its function.

Read in the article

How to choose and install an interior door by size and configuration

Manufacturers offer products of various widths and heights, which allows you to choose the right model for any opening. Canvases for swing structures, manufactured in Russia and most EU countries, can have a width of 600 mm, increasing in increments of 100 mm. The minimum width of French-made doors is 690 mm. The size change step is 100 mm.

When choosing a door leaf, you should take into account the dimensions of the door frame. If the opening is of irregular geometric shape, it is taken into account minimum width. Otherwise, it will need to be expanded, which will significantly complicate installation work.

Attention! The standard height of interior doors is 2 m.

When choosing suitable product You should also focus on the purpose of the room for which they are intended. For living rooms, canvases with a width of 60-120 cm are purchased, for the kitchen - at least 70 cm, for a bathroom or toilet - from 60 cm.

Contents of products sold may vary. In the maximum version, the delivery kit includes a door block. The installer will only need to cut the sides to size, align the structure evenly and secure it. In a minimal design, all elements of the door system are purchased separately and then installed together.

How to properly install an interior door with your own hands if you only change the door leaf

If door frame it is quite durable, completely suits the owners in terms of design and color, it is not necessary to completely change the system. Simply replacing the sash is enough. Next, we will tell you how to properly install it yourself when partially replacing structural elements.

How to remove an old door panel

How to install an interior door leaf yourself

When starting to install the sash, you should lift it to a small height and place a board underneath. We combine the elements of the upper and then the lower loop first. When figuring out how to install it yourself, it’s worth noting that it’s best to do this kind of work together. In this case, it will be possible to perform the installation more efficiently.

A video on how to properly install interior doors yourself will help you understand the nuances of replacing the door leaf.

Do-it-yourself installation of an interior door with a frame - step-by-step instructions

If you plan to do the installation yourself, step-by-step instruction will help you better understand the process. We invite you to learn the nuances that will help you perform the installation efficiently.

What tools and consumables are needed for the job?

The list of tools, equipment and consumables will depend on design features the installed system, and how it is planned to install the interior doors. As a rule, you need to prepare:

• drill. If work is carried out in apartment building, then instead of a drill it is better to take a hammer drill;
• drills for wood 3-4 mm and concrete 4 and 6 mm;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• building level;
• for wood and concrete;
• polyurethane foam.

The procedure for dismantling the old door and carrying out work to strengthen the doorway

Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors should begin with dismantling the old structure. This should be done very carefully so as not to damage doorway. For this:

• remove the door leaf from the hinges;
• we remove the platbands. To do this, insert an ax between the product and the wall and carefully press out the fasteners;
• dismantle the box, first removing all the fasteners. It is usually located near the lock and in the hinge area. The screws should be unscrewed at low speeds;
• we remove the extra.

After dismantling the door, you should carefully inspect the opening. Remains of old material should be completely removed. If there is mechanical damage, the geometry of the opening should be restored. This can be done using .

If a heavy interior door is to be installed in an apartment, measures to strengthen the doorway may be required, including:

• along the entire perimeter of the doorway;
• a piece to the size of the channels for the entire surface of the doorway;
• installation of channels into prepared grooves. To fix them in the opening, studs of suitable diameter are used;
• in the corners individual elements are welded together.

How to install an interior door frame

After the opening is completely prepared, we suggest you figure out how to install the door frame of the interior door. The procedure will depend on the form of delivery of the item. Manufacturers offer a box:

• assembled. In this case, the assembled structure can be immediately mounted in the opening;
• in the form of elements cut to size. Having connected them together, the structure is installed in the opening;
• like a figured beam. In this case, the elements are cut off first the right size, then they are connected to each other and only then the box is mounted.

Let's look at the last installation option in more detail.

Taking measurements and assembling the door frame

We measure the parameters of the doorway using a tape measure of sufficient length. When determining the height of the vertical posts and the length of the crossbars, the gaps between the frame and the door leaf should be taken into account. They are selected from the range of 5-10 mm. The gap between the floor and the sash may be larger.

A comment

Team leader of the repair and construction company "Dom Premium"

" Measurements of the same parameter should be made at several points.

Illustration	Description of action
	We cut off the elements, ensuring the formation of the selected angle. Box elements can be located at right angles or 45°. Other more possible complex options, which you should not resort to when doing the installation yourself. It is better to entrust them to a master.
	We mark up the elements.
	We cut off the elements using a tool with fine teeth.
	We form landing grooves and connect the elements to each other. We check the correctness of the work done by placing the sash in the assembled box. There should be equal gaps on all sides.

Installing hinges

Mark the place where the loops will be located. Usually this is 20-25 cm above the bottom edge of the sash and below the top. We remove a layer of material equal to the width of the fittings. In this case, the fastening will be flush. This can be done using a chisel or a special tool.

Attention! When creating a space for the hinges of an interior door, you should work extremely carefully so as not to damage the decorative layer.

Installation of the frame in the doorway

We install the assembled box in the doorway:

Illustration	Description of action
	We provide the required spatial arrangement using pegs or timber. Auxiliary elements can be fixed level before installing the box at the level of future hinges.
	We screw the box using suitable fasteners. The space between the box and the wall can be filled with foam.

How to install an interior door leaf

Quite an important moment for those who learn how to install interior doors. First, you should screw the mating part of the hinges to the door leaf or mark the mounting holes if you decide to use non-separable fittings. How to insert an interior door? Simply put it on the loops. After this, you should make sure that it opens and closes well.

Installation of additional elements

Installation of platbands

Before installation, the platbands are sawed at an angle of 45°. They are nailed to the box with finishing nails or nails without heads.

Installation requires tools and basic construction skills. The quality of the work performed depends on accurate measurements. The slightest distortions will lead to jamming of the sash and the formation of cracks. Door blocks are sold assembled or disassembled. In the second case, installation will be more difficult due to the need self-assembly ludki.

The installation of doors begins with the preparation of tools. For installation work you will need:

• To place the door level, you need a plumb line and a level. For measurements and markings, use a tape measure with a pencil.
• The process of assembling and installing interior doors includes final finishing with platbands and, if necessary, extensions. A hacksaw with fine teeth and a miter box are useful for cutting planks.
• The power tool you need is a drill with a set of drill bits for concrete and wood, as well as a screwdriver.
• It’s easier to make cuts for fittings with a milling cutter, but if you don’t have a tool, you can get by with a chisel and hammer.

The materials used are self-tapping screws, polyurethane foam, and also many wooden wedges of different thicknesses for spacers. You need to immediately decide how to install interior doors so that the fasteners are not visible.

If preference is given to hidden installation, additional hangers are purchased. You can fix the boat with anchors. Sink the caps into secret holes, putty them, and paint over them.

How to install an interior door with your own hands?

If you know how to use the tool, you can install the doors yourself. It is important to initially take all accurate measurements to avoid distortions. In general terms, the procedure for installing an interior door consists of the following processes:

1. If the frame is sold disassembled, it will have to be assembled. This work increases the installation time of the interior door and also complicates the process.
2. All elements door block equipped with fittings: handles, locks, latches. On a system consisting of rollers and guide rails. When installing a swing door, the door leaf is secured to the door with hinges.
3. After assembling the structure, the installation of doors in the apartment begins with. In the opening, the frame is fixed with anchors or hangers, and the gaps are filled with foam.
4. The sash is hung on the installed boat, adjustments are made, and it is placed with.

To execute correct installation interior door with your own hands, even before purchasing the door block for sure. The dimensions of the frame must be smaller than the passage, otherwise it will have to be removed. It is optimal to maintain gaps when installing an interior door between the door and the wall - from 10 to 40 mm.

Mandatory, but necessary if the depth of the opening exceeds the size of the frame. Protruding sections of the wall are hidden under decorative strips. Step-by-step instructions will help you better understand the installation process.

Box assembly

The installation of an interior door begins by unpacking the purchased unit and inspecting all components. The door frame can be sold assembled or disassembled into individual elements with mounting grooves.

If you purchased a boat with ready-made fasteners, you just need to assemble it. The frame is sold from elements cut to size. There can be three of them: a false and hinged stand, as well as a lintel top bar. If a threshold is provided, then a fourth element is included.

To assemble the frame, plugs are knocked out from the ends of the racks along with connecting pins. The edges of the vertical and horizontal frame elements are joined so that they coincide mounting holes. The connecting pins are driven in with a hammer, and the holes are closed with plugs.

When knocking out the plugs, the blows are applied through wooden pads to prevent the destruction of the decorative coating.

Much more complex, sold in the form of blanks made of figured veneered timber. You will need woodworking tools, as well as basic knowledge of carpentry. consists of the following steps:

• First, measure the sash. The length of the frame elements is calculated so that between internal part between the pan and the canvas, a gap of 3 mm was formed around the entire perimeter. If it is intended to install a sealing rubber, the size of the gap is calculated taking into account its thickness.

• The blanks are marked, then sawed with a wood hacksaw with fine teeth at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. Direct docking is easier. To properly saw off a corner, the workpiece is placed in a miter box. Connect the prepared elements of the box with long self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes.

• It is easier for an inexperienced person to install doors without a threshold, since only three elements will have to be connected. The shape of the box is made in the form of the letter “P”. The edges of the upper lintel are placed on the ends of the racks. Each joint is secured with two self-tapping screws.

• The sash is placed in the finished frame. Measure the gaps between the door and frame on three sides, keeping to the required 3 mm. The racks below will rest on the floor. The length is calculated so that there is a gap of 8–15 mm between the floor covering and the lower end of the sash.
• To install the threshold of an interior door, the frame is assembled from four elements. The lower jumper is inserted between the posts and then secured with self-tapping screws. The gap between the threshold and the end of the sash is maintained at 3 mm.

After the frame is made, the door leaf is laid. Having retreated 25 cm from above and below, on the hinge stand, as well as the end of the sash, mark the installation locations for the hinges. To prevent the fastening plates from protruding, recesses are selected in the wood using a chisel or milling cutter.

Two ways to install the box

Open way provides anchors. The frame is inserted into the opening. Displayed vertically and horizontally. All measurements are carried out with a level and a plumb line. Maintaining a gap of 10 to 40 mm, wooden wedges are driven between the frame and the walls. By knocking or loosening the spacers, the frame is perfectly level.

WITH inside boxes with increments of 50–60 cm are drilled through holes with countersunk recesses. Holes are made in the wall using a concrete drill. The anchors are screwed in so that the head is hidden inside the secret recess. After a level check, the gap between the wall and the frame is filled with foam. Secret holes are puttied and then painted over.

Second closed method Installation of the box involves the use of hangers used in the manufacture of plasterboard frames, or a special mounting system. The metal strip is screwed with self-tapping screws to the underside of the frame. The box is inserted into the interior opening, wedged with wooden wedges, the hanging petals are folded onto the wall, secured with self-tapping screws and plastic dowels.

Installation of additional equipment

When installing a door block in a deep interior opening, the frame is not able to cover the entire wall. If the width of the box is not enough, then use. Decorative strips are installed on longitudinal groove frames, having previously lubricated the lock with glue. If the door frame does not provide a lock for the extensions, the planks are fixed through secret holes with self-tapping screws. The optimal fastening pitch is 60 cm.

Installation of door leaf

Before installing the door, the door leaf is equipped with fittings. Canopies on the market different types and flowers. The place for their fastening is determined before installing the box. For interior doors, it is popular to install butterfly awnings that do not require insertion.

Two hinges are installed on a light sash, leaving 25 cm at the top and bottom. The heavy leaf is reinforced in the center with a third canopy. At open method fixing the box, the anchors are positioned so that they do not interfere with screwing the hinges with self-tapping screws. If the installation of interior doors was carried out in a hidden way on hangers, the problem with the location of the fasteners disappears.

The gap between the end of the sash and the hinge post of the frame should be 6 mm. First, mark the place for fastening at the end of the sash. Under mounting plate loops using a chisel to select a notch. The canopies are screwed on with self-tapping screws.

The door leaf along with the hinges is inserted into the frame. Wedges are used to push the sash apart to create gaps around the perimeter. Places for making recesses are marked on the hinge stand. The canvas is removed from the frame, a recess is selected with a chisel, then the second halves of the canopies are screwed in with self-tapping screws.

The handle with the lock is installed at a height of 90 cm from the floor. The body of the locking fittings is applied to the sash at a measured height. Use a pencil to mark the location of the handle and outline the boundaries of the castle. At the end of the canvas, use drills or a chisel to select a recess. Drill for handle through hole. The nest is treated with varnish, a lock is installed, the body is fixed with self-tapping screws, and then the handles are inserted. A sample is made on the box stand opposite the lock and a counter plate of the locking hardware is installed.

To install doors with your own hands without defects, the process of hanging the sash is carried out after the polyurethane foam has completely hardened.

Fastening platbands

The final installation of the door block is. Decorative strips are installed on both sides interior opening. sell wooden, plastic or MDF. The shape can be simple flat, beveled or curly. to the end interior box lock connection, screwed with self-tapping screws or nailed. The planks can be glued, but the adjacent wall must be perfectly flat and finished with durable cladding.

To perform a simple installation of door trims, first attach a horizontal strip level. The edges are pre-sawed off at an angle of 45°. Vertical slats are installed from the floor. Mark a cutting line at the top at a similar angle. The joint is made as tight as possible. If a gap forms, putty is used. After hardening, the flaws are painted over.

Platbands can be joined at right angles. The top bar is inserted between the vertical elements or placed on top of the end.

Installation of the stop

A hinged interior door opened as children run and hits the wall with its handles. It's spoiling decorative finishing and even the plaster is crumbling. It helps to install a door stop that prevents the door from opening completely.

The stop is a barrel with a rubber nozzle. The limiter is installed after installing the door block and all finishing work. The interior door is opened to the desired position. The location of the stop is marked on the floor. Use an electric drill to drill a hole, drive in a fastening screw and tighten the stopper.

How to change the canvas?

Often during repairs, only replacement of the door leaf is required. The procedure is much simpler than installing an interior door from scratch.

• The old fabric is removed from the hinges. Awnings usually consist of two detachable halves. To remove the interior sash, it is enough to pry it open from below with a pry bar. If the axial rod is inserted from above in the hinges, the canvas will not be removed. First, a screwdriver is inserted under the head of the rod, then it is knocked out of the socket with hammer blows. Dismantling begins from the bottom loop. After removing the rods, the sash can be easily removed.
• Two canvases are compared in size, laid on top of each other. If the new fold is larger than the old one, mark the boundaries with a pencil. Excess areas are cut off manually circular saw. The cuts are adjusted with a plane and processed with a grinder.
• The door leaf, adjusted to size, is equipped with hinges, a lock, and a handle.
• Hanging on the hinges occurs in the reverse order.

If the new canvas has been adjusted, the cut points need to be masked. Paint material choose a similar color or completely repaint the entire canvas.