Types of bonsai. Growing bonsai at home. Spring protection of garden plants from pests and diseases

The art of bonsai originated many centuries ago. Bonsai represents bonsai, grown in a pot. Ready-made copies are sold in specialized stores. But it’s much more interesting and enjoyable to create such a mini-tree yourself at home. The article will tell you how to do this step by step.

To get bonsai from seeds at home, you will need to be patient. After all, the desired result will be visible only after a few years. Not everyone succeeds in growing a miniature tree from seeds on their first try. The reason lies in inexperience and non-compliance with certain rules.

It is easy to grow and make your own bonsai from seeds and cuttings of sprouts at home on a stone from almost any tree. But it is better to give preference to those species that grow and are adapted to domestic climate conditions. Especially if the plant is planned to be kept in the garden or on an unglazed balcony. If the bonsai is located in an apartment, it is allowed to select and form more exotic, tropical options. Dracaena grows well at home, a coffee tree, hibiscus, sheffler and laurel.

If you have no experience in plant growing, it is better to try planting Ficus Microcarpa at home. It is unpretentious and easy to care for. For an experienced gardener You can take pine and plum seeds. This material makes a beautiful and unusual garden bonsai. True, pine grows very slowly.

From hardwood trees, preference should be given to beech, birch, maple, pedunculate oak, cherry, and if you want to grow tropical species in an apartment, it makes sense to pay attention to acacia, abutilon and myrtle.

Tropical tree species

Such tropical trees, like shefflera, wisteria, ficus retusa, portulacaria and crassula, are excellent for growing nivaki in an apartment. The main thing is that the house has good lighting and humidity.

Gardeners especially often choose ficus Natasha. After all, this plant has all the characteristics that are needed to create a real adult bonsai at home:

1. The root system is branched.
2. The bark is beautiful.
3. The foliage is small.
4. The trunks are ornate, corrugated, massive.
5. Ficus grows quickly.

Suitable for growing a regular mini-tree at home different varieties and types. For example:

But many choose to create Benjamin and Microcarp. To get a beautiful bonsai from such a ficus, you need to plant and care for the plant correctly. You can see more details about the planting and care process in photos and videos on the Internet. Often, if maintenance conditions are violated, foliage falls. To avoid this, it is necessary to carry out proper planting, pruning of roots and crowns, and replanting. It is important to follow the rules of care.

Ginseng and wisteria also make original bonsai with your own hands. But this tree is very capricious and needs to create certain conditions. Wisteria is photophilous, so the lighting should be good. It is important to monitor the temperature so that the room is always above -5 degrees. Otherwise the tree will freeze. It is important to regularly ventilate the room in which wisteria grows. Every year after flowering is completed, replanting is performed. In this case, you should inspect the root zone and remove all damaged parts.

Broad-leaved tree species

Among the broad-leaved tree species, the most suitable for bonsai are maple, hornbeam, elm, beech, pomegranate, lemon, felt cherry and birch. Experienced flower growers experiment and form bonsai from several types of plants. By caring for the crown and root system in a certain way, you can get interesting specimens.

To create maple bonsai at home, seeds of palm-shaped, field-leaved, platonic-leaved, rock-leaved and ash-leaved varieties are most often chosen. These species are characterized by small foliage. Therefore, trees look and feel very organic.

Since the art of bonsai is very popular among gardeners and gardeners, breeders are working on developing maple varieties with different colors and leaf shapes. For example, blue, blue maple, red Japanese and purple look very interesting.

To create a bonsai at home, the maple crown is given different shapes: inclined, grove, upright, broom-shaped. Any of these styles are easy to create at home. The main thing when growing lemon tree Don't miss these important points:

1. Use mature seeds that germinate quickly. This material allows you to give the plant any shape without changing the already formed root system.
2. Seeds should be collected in the fall. But the material is not yet ready for planting. It is left for the winter. Store in a container with damp sand in the refrigerator.
3. To quickly get a decorative tree, it is recommended to use the cuttings planting method.
4. To obtain bonsai from red, blue and blue maple, you need to buy specially bred plants in stores.

Coniferous tree species

The easiest way to grow bonsai is from those tree species that grow in the country. Coniferous species are most suitable. Particularly good compositions are obtained from juniper, pine, spruce and thuja.

Exist different styles growing a mini tree. But in any case, you must follow these rules:

• The crown of thuja and spruce should be cone-shaped or divided into horizontal tiers.
• It is important that thuja and spruce have thick needles.

To form a crown you will have to spend a lot of time and effort. After planting the plant in a container, you need to trim the top. It is necessary to first think over the style of the future mini-tree. Because the first pruning lays the foundation of the bonsai. During pruning, all unnecessary branches are removed. Using aluminum wire, the frame of the trunk is formed.

Thuja and spruce should be pruned regularly. Only with this procedure can you maintain an attractive appearance. The first time is trimmed in the spring with the beginning active growth. Further, everything depends on the intensity of development of the crassula tree.

Each coniferous species has its own pruning rules, so that the cut is tightened faster, it is covered with plasticine.

In summer, excess needles are cut off to rejuvenate the crown. Dwarf thuja and spruce should be replanted regularly. This operation is carried out in the warm season. To do this, take a ceramic flower pot and make holes in it for drainage. The container is filled 1/4 full with clay. Then a layer of special soil mixture is poured. All overgrown, old and damaged parts of the root zone are removed using garden shears. Then carefully clean the roots from old land. Place the plant in a new container and cover it with substrate.

Sakura, azalea, rose, crassula, fuchsia

Some novice gardeners decide to create rose bonsai. As a rule, all attempts are unsuccessful. After all, such a plant does not tolerate pruning of the root zone. But a lot depends on the chosen variety. If the flower is characterized by slow growth, then it is quite possible to create a bonsai from it. Better to give preference terry varieties. They successfully create bonsai from Chinese roses and rhododendrons.

A more suitable type of tree is sakura. But its bone is covered with a dense membrane. Therefore, seed germination takes longer and is more difficult. Before planting, the material is subjected to stratification: it is placed in the refrigerator for several months. Sow the seeds in coarse, disinfected sand. There is no need to fertilize the substrate. As the seedlings grow, they take off. Repeated replanting allows the plant to quickly form a strong and powerful root zone. It will take 2-3 years to grow sakura from scratch. After this time, they begin to prune and form a mini-tree.

The main task is to restrain the growth of sakura and give it a dwarf appearance. This is done as follows:

1. All shoots that grow vertically are pruned. This creates a thick trunk at the base.
2. The upper part of the root system is exposed. For this they remove upper layer soil. So even a three-year-old tree will look like a century-old one.
3. The crown and trunk are formed by trimming the lower branches.
4. If the trunk is very long, it is shortened. For this purpose, cut off a strip of bark at the base and transplant the plant with the bare area into the ground. Roots grow in the treated area. After this, the old root system is cut off and the sakura is replanted.
5. If the gardener has chosen a broom bonsai style, the vertical branches should be trimmed as much as possible. With a vertical style, the growth of side shoots and the main trunk is encouraged.

They also create bonsai from fuchsia, azalea and crassula. Even if the tree is fully formed, it must be periodically pinched and trimmed. Only in this case will you be able to maintain good shape.

Tomatoes for bonsai tree

Often people who do not have a summer house grow miniature ones. If you choose compact varieties, you can form a bonsai so that it bears fruit. Before planting, Gavrish tomato seeds are soaked for three hours in a manganese solution. The pot is filled with earth, leaving 5 centimeters from the edge. Lay out the material and compact it a little. Sprinkle the top with a 1.5-centimeter layer of soil.

Tomatoes Micro f1 are light-loving, so they should be placed on southern windows. For good growth and development, it is important to trim old lower leaves in a timely manner. It is useful to feed the plant mineral fertilizers. Every two months it is recommended to add fresh vermicompost.

To form the crown of a miniature pomegranate tree, a special variety is usually used - a bonsai tomato. This is a small potted plant that does not need staking. Bears original and tasty fruits.

Below are the benefits of the variety:

• High yield. One bush produces about 2 kilograms of tomatoes.
• The first fruits ripen 3 months after planting.
• The tomatoes look neat, round, bright red in color. Weigh up to 65 grams.

Where to buy seeds?

Seeds for growing a bonsai style tree are collected independently from deciduous or coniferous trees. Planting material is also sold in specialized stores. Some gardeners order seeds and get ideas and advice from online portals. The price depends on the type and type of wood.

You can often find a mixture of seeds for growing bonsai. For example, many companies sell a collection of seeds consisting of Siberian cedar, laurel, pine, sequoia, and juniper inexpensively, for only 1,000 rubles. As a result, for a small amount you can create several original bonsai.

Will bonsai grown outdoors grow?

Typically, standard bonsai are kept at home. Growing outdoors is rather an exception to the rule. Having decided to create a mini-tree in the garden or at the dacha, you need to take care of purchasing a suitable variety. It is better to choose deciduous species. For example, apple tree, magnolia, cork oak, Japanese or Chinese elm. It is advisable to grow these trees for residents of regions with a warm-temperate climate. In any case, a young plant outdoors needs protection from wind, rain and sun. Okay on open area Podocarpus feels.

Thus, bonsai is a popular technique for growing mini artificial trees. For this purpose, different types and varieties of plants are used. The main thing is to know the prices, methods and rules for crown formation. When deciding to create a bonsai outdoors, you should choose those tree species that are adapted to the conditions of the domestic climate.

Fashion, hobbies, art, philosophy, the Way... Everyone who starts growing bonsai finds their meaning in this amazing phenomenon of Japanese culture. For some, this is an opportunity to relieve stress and escape from everyday worries, for others - a successful commercial enterprise, for others - an ascent to harmony, insight into the essence of things and comprehension of the laws of the universe.

A smaller version of a wild tree is more than an indoor plant grown for its beautiful leaves and flowers. This is a kind of manifesto of life, the result of the struggle for survival. Bonsai teaches optimism, patience, concentration and perseverance; it is not for nothing that these decorative compositions were so widespread among Zen monks and samurai.

All living things decay, but the older the tree, the more respect and interest we look at it. Contemplating bonsai, you can go on an imaginary journey, climb the rocks to a waterfall, see the great in the small. And the tree absorbs our views, love, admiration and reciprocates. With proper care, it can live for hundreds of years and become a living symbol that connects generations, conveying to others in the language of symbols the feelings and mood of the creator.

II: HISTORY OF BONSAI

The Japanese were not the first to grow miniature trees; Egyptian priests also cultivated them, as evidenced by drawings discovered in ancient tombs. They depict small trees in containers placed around temples.

Traveling Hindus who practiced Ayurveda used pots to transport certain medicinal saplings. To make transportation easier, plants and trees were constantly trimmed. Doctors quickly noticed that with this treatment, the leaves of the tree become smaller, the branches begin to be more dense, and the whole tree decreases in size.

But the closest relative of Japanese bonsai is considered to be an art that appeared in China during the reign of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and was called Peng Tsai or penjing. Today, in the Shanghai Botanical Garden, you can see images of a reduced landscape and a tree in a bowl, which decorated the burial of Prince Zhang Huai, who died in 706. However, there is evidence that such trees were grown in the Middle Kingdom before the Tang Dynasty.

According to one version, the art of penjing arose from the nostalgia of both rich and poor villagers who flocked from the villages to the densely populated cities of China. In the cramped conditions of their new life, the settlers tried to preserve the memory of their native places. They laid out small gardens, resurrecting a view familiar from childhood. At the same time, some trees were specially planted in separate vessels so that they could be moved, changing the entire composition. Gardeners also had to restrain the growth of particularly large specimens and work on their shape.

Of course, few people in the city could afford a kindergarten. Most were content with what they could take in at a glance - a small tree in an elegant vase. Some compositions were so beautiful that they began to be specially made for sale.

Gradually, growing miniature trees began to turn into a separate art direction - with its own canons, schools, and branches. Manifold climatic zones, the specific vegetation in each of them contributed to the emergence of the most different directions penjinga. Throughout the country, craftsmen worked with local materials, which determined their style and technique. There were two main types of penjing: take a chance And noise. The first depicted a mountain landscape in which the tree is not an obligatory element or plays a secondary role. Noise assumed the use of one or several trees as an obligatory dominant - it is considered the prototype of bonsai in Japan.

Penjing was brought to the Land of the Rising Sun from China in the 6th century by followers of the teachings of Zen Buddhism, who often used miniature trees for meditation. To be fair, it is worth noting that other Asian countries, such as Vietnam, also borrowed penjing, but it was thanks to Japanese masters that the culture of growing miniature trees turned into a whole philosophy. Looking ahead, let's say that centuries later, in the 20th century, the Japanese even contributed to the revival of penjing traditions in China itself, where they were mercilessly exterminated during the years of the communist regime.

Having penetrated Japan, penjing remained the prerogative of monks until the 12th century, but then miniature trees moved from temples to the palaces of the aristocracy and to the houses of the samurai, of which documentary evidence has been preserved. Among the illustrations for the book Amazing stories about Kasuga Gongen, dating back to 1303, there are drawings that already correspond to modern ideas about bonsai. And in the poem Pine in a bowl, dating from the same period, glorifies the majestic image of a tree, which “even after thousands of years, in old age, amazes with the beauty of its green needles.” Word bonsa th was not used in those days, compositions from ornamental plants or trees were called hatiue, and the principles and methods of their compilation were very different from modern traditions. Masters Hachiue they have not yet created masterpieces of a given form with deep internal symbolism.

From the second half of the 15th century to the beginning of the 17th century, Japan entered an era Warring States. Battles distracted the samurai and nobles; interest in everything elegant returned only at the end of the reign of the Tokugawa clan (1603-1868). The rulers of this period promoted the development of art borrowed from China, especially the third shogun Iemitsu, who became famous for his very stormy social life (I623-I65I). He collected a large collection of miniature trees, which was guarded day and night by seven samurai.

The beginning of the Meiji period (1868-1912) was marked by the adoption of the word bonsa th along with Hachiue. During these years, ordinary townspeople also became involved in the composition of decorative compositions. Most often they used pine, juniper, cryptomeria and plum. In the spring of 1892, a bonsai exhibition opened in one of the Tokyo restaurants - the first in the world. From this moment on, growing miniature trees in Japan is elevated to the rank of a national art; they are collected, presented as an expensive gift, and passed on by inheritance as a family heirloom that links generations.

At the beginning of the 20th century, many specialized publications appeared, paying special attention to the development of bonsai techniques. Across Japan, professionals and amateurs alike strive to improve their skills. Exhibitions are held every month, created Bonsa Development Societyth.

After the terrible earthquake of 1923, thirty Japanese craftsmen moved from Tokyo to the northeast of the country to a forest area near the city of Omiya, where Bonsa village y. It soon turned into a center for growing miniature trees, attracting professionals and amateurs from all over the world.

In the spring of 1934, several compositions by Japanese masters were exhibited among artistic masterpieces at the Tokyo Museum of Fine Arts. Since then, this exhibition has become a regular occurrence. And three years later, 50 miniature trees won gold at the World Exhibition in Paris.

With the end of World War II, bonsai became known in the New World. Oriental wonders were brought to the United States by American soldiers returning home from occupied Japan. The spread of Japanese national art throughout the world was also facilitated by the emergence of fundamentally new technologies, namely the use of wire, with the help of which it is much easier to form a composition than using trimming and stretching.

After the Olympic Games in Tokyo and international exhibition In the city of Osaka, where 1190 magnificent examples were presented, Japanese national art finally became the property of world culture.

At the end of the 20th century, a real commercial boom swept across Europe; the bonsai hobby reached its peak in both the Old and New Worlds. Clubs, unions, associations and, of course, experienced craftsmen appeared in all countries. Growing miniature trees has become a serious business; prices for some designer specimens rose to $2,000,000 in the 1980s.

The first bonsai appeared in Russia in 1976. On the initiative of the wife of the Japanese Ambassador, Mrs. Shigemitsu, the Main Botanical Garden of the USSR Academy of Sciences received a collection of 44 miniature trees as a gift. The staff of the Botanical Garden not only looked after them, but also practiced the technique of growing bonsai from birch and pine trees dear to the Russian heart.

Soon a popular Soviet magazine Science and life published photographs and a short guide to bonsai care. The publication's three million circulation contributed greatly to introducing the broadest masses of our compatriots to the Japanese cultural tradition. Since then, this interest has not waned, especially now, with the opening of the world, with new opportunities.

III: BONSAI STYLES

There are no strict rules in the art of bonsai. The miniature tree requires only a little help to grow as it should on the plain, along a cliff, or near a river. Of course, for a tree to be elegant and beautiful, it needs to be given the appropriate shape.

For beginners, many bonsai styles will seem complex; it is worth starting by studying standard forms, which, however, have enormous aesthetic and spiritual impact. These are images of trees bent by the wind or growing at an angle. You can begin to create more bizarre compositions only after many years of practice on live material.

Once you have studied and mastered the basic styles of bonsai, you will come to understand that true masterpieces are deviations from generally accepted norms. At a certain stage, a true artist must forget everything he knows and follow the dictates of his heart. But you can only reject what you yourself have fully comprehended.

MAIN STYLES

CHOKAN: STRAIGHT VERTICAL

The classic vertical is the basis of bonsai, so all beginners need to master the style tekkan before tackling more complex miniatures. According to bonsai masters, a straight vertical represents maturity and perfection.

Chokan imitates a tree with a perfectly straight, powerful trunk, which is quite rare in nature. After all, in order for a pine or spruce to grow straight upward and have a beautiful shape under normal conditions, they require a sufficient amount of nutrition and water. In addition, they should not be exposed to strong winds or competition from other trees. This specimen can only be seen on the plain.

Many breeds are suitable for Chokan compositions, but the most commonly used are pine, spruce, juniper, and maple, peach, plum, cherry, orange, apple tree. Each miniature tree formed in this style is characterized by a straight, tapering trunk that is divided into three equal parts.

The lower part is free of branches, so the tree trunk, its roots and bark are visible in all their glory. Above are three main horizontal branches: the first, the most powerful, grows in one direction, the second in the other, and the third - back, away from the viewer. The last branch is especially important; it gives the composition depth, so it should be lush. The side branches are slightly lowered down and slightly turned forward, but so as not to overlap the trunk.

The upper part of the tree is decorated with thinner and shorter branches. They rise up and create, depending on the selected species, a dense deciduous or coniferous crown, spherical or pointed.

When caring for a tree, provide equal and unrestricted access to light and air to all branches. Make sure that the branches do not grow directly above one another; with this arrangement, the sun will illuminate them unevenly.

Compositions created in the chokan style are best placed in an oval or rectangular container.

MOYOGI: CURVED VERTICAL

Moyogi Considered a variation of the tekkan style, it is widespread in nature and suitable for beginners. This is one of the main methods of growing miniature trees and is used most often. Moyogi is also good because the compositions created in this style never repeat each other. Most often they are used pine, oak, maple, juniper.

The main difference between moyogi and tekkan is that the upright tree trunk has an S-shape or several bends, decreasing towards the top. Moyogi conveys movement, upward striving, flexibility. To achieve this effect, they begin to bend the trunk from the base, making sure that the top of the tree is located exactly above its base.

When choosing a container for compositions in the moyoga style, you should choose an oval or rectangular vessel. The tree is placed asymmetrically in it, its roots should be visible on the surface of the earth. Make sure that the crown does not extend beyond the edges of the container.

SOKAN (JOZHU): DOUBLE BARREL

A tree with a double trunk is very common in nature. Its miniature version is grown using two separate roots or one, forming a second trunk from a lower branch, which should not be located too high.

Compositions in style sokan are both vertical and inclined, while each trunk can be given special form. The branches of the trees diverge, but form a common crown. The beauty of such a bonsai depends on the balance of the thickness and height of the trunks. One of them is powerful, the other is subtle, which is why the sokan style is sometimes also called “father and son” or “mother and child”.

To create compositions, it is recommended to use coniferous, evergreen and deciduous trees with small leaves, flowers and fruits. Various types are suitable pine, juniper, spruce, ginkgo, maple, beech, elm, apple, plum. In some countries, bonsai enthusiasts work with specimens of local flora, giving particular preference to those that grow in extreme environmental conditions.

SHAKAN: SLANT STYLE

Style shakan reproduces a tree that has survived a hurricane or a landslide. Its trunk - straight or curved - is at an angle to the surface of the container. Powerful roots, on the one hand, go deep into the ground, and on the other, they stick out to the surface, as if clinging to it. Depending on the inclination of the trunk, there are sho-shakan(minimum), chu-shakan(medium) and give-shakan(maximum).

The lower branch in all shakan compositions is located in the direction opposite to the inclination of the tree. Both it and the other branches are curved, the top protrudes slightly forward. It seems that the tree continues to resist gusts of wind.

To provide stability, the bulk of the bonsai should be concentrated within the boundaries of the container. When creating shakan compositions, oval or oblong shaped vessels are used. In round containers, the tree is planted in the center.

KENGAI: CASCADE STYLE

Cascading, flowing trees are often found on steep cliffs and sheer cliffs. Rooted deeply in the ground or rock, they grow by hanging down. There are similar forms in the art of bonsai, all of them derived from two main styles - kengai(full cascade) and han kengai(half-cascade).

In kengai compositions, the upward-pointing tree trunk suddenly changes direction and falls downwards, sinking below the surface of the tall container. One of the three main branches may also lean toward the side of the container, dominating the trunk. Its length is not limited, so such bonsai are usually placed on high tables. The small branch at the top is usually directed away from the main body of the tree to give stability to the entire arrangement.

Growing a kengai style bonsai is not easy, as the tree always strives to rise up. Forming a cascade in a garden bed is usually impossible; planting in a deep vessel is necessary. To direct the tree's growth downwards, use wire or change the position of the container. The right container is extremely important for a cascading arrangement, it should be deep and heavy to balance the branches and trunk of the tree. The most suitable shape is round, square or hexagonal.

Kengai style is suitable for trees with a flexible trunk, these include azalea, juniper, cotoneaster. When choosing a specimen in a nursery, it is desirable that it has a large branch in the lower third of the trunk.

HAN-KENGAI: SEMI-CASCADE STYLE

Like the cascading style, han kengai copies trees leaning over a cliff. Its difference is that in han-kengai compositions the trunk is not bent so strongly, but is directed horizontally, not allowing them to further fall under their weight below the base of the container. The trunk, growing upward, is located in the center and is formed by a wide crown. The semi-cascade requires proportionality between the crown and the trunk; the roots must be well developed and located in the direction of the main cascade branch.

For han-kengai compositions, the same types of well-bending trees are used as for cascading miniatures. The container may be flatter and not as deep.

BUJINGI: LITERARY STYLE

Bujingi- one of the most sophisticated bonsai styles, it was formed relatively recently, at the end of the Edo period (1603-1868). The origins of bujinga were Japanese writers and fans of Chinese painting Nanga. Creating compositions from miniature trees, they tried to imitate the artists of the Celestial Empire in everything, deliberately ignoring the canons of bonsai. Intellectuals relied in everything on their own inspiration, which they drew, among other things, from the famous treatise A Word on Painting from the Mustard Seed Garden, the main guide to Nanga. Subsequently, some terms coined by Japanese writers began to be used by other bonsai masters.

The literary style is reminiscent of delicate ink drawings that are created with just a few strokes of the brush. Bujinga compositions require less time than others. The emphasis is on the tall, thin, gracefully curved trunk. The tree has no lower branches, the upper ones are ledges. The crown is small but well formed, there is little foliage and it is clearly visible. Such trees are found in shaded areas of the forest, where, due to lack of sun, their lower branches die off and the trunk becomes gnarled and rough.

Both coniferous and broad-leaved trees are suitable for buddinga-style compositions. The bonsai should be placed in a small round container with raised edges. The color of the container should be bright.

NEAGARI: EXPOSED ROOTS

“I was shaped by the ebb and flow of the tides” - this is how one can describe the style Neagari, one of the most original in the art of bonsai. The roots of the tree in non-agari compositions are not just exposed, they are raised high above the ground and twisted, as if with a rope. The trunk stands on them, like on stilts. Similar forms can be seen along the banks of rivers, where trees are washed away by water.

For non-agari style compositions, trees that form aerial roots should be used, such as some ficus- Ficus benghalensis, Ficus retusa or Ficus pumila.

SEKIJOJU: TREE ON STONE

Style sekijoju very impressive, the viewer sees a tree on a rock, with a spreading crown and powerful roots, reminiscent of a cobweb that tenaciously engulfs the entire stone. This is how vegetation survives on huge boulders. Over time, the roots of a tree growing on rocks begin to resemble trunks.

The Sekijoju style is suitable for all unpretentious breeds with well-developed roots. Most often used maple, Chinese elm, pine and juniper.

The tree itself in sekijoju compositions can be grown in any style, with the possible exception of “broom” and “straight vertical”. The stone fragment used as rock must have through crevices so that the roots can penetrate through them to the soil.

If the root system is not long enough, the tree is first planted in a deep box and, as it grows, the top layer of soil is removed. The roots become exposed and begin to become woody. When they reach the bottom of the box, the tree is taken out, tied tightly to the stone with twine or wire and wrapped in polyethylene, after adding a little sandy soil, and watered generously. After the bonsai gets stronger and starts sprouting, the polyethylene and sand are removed, and the tree is transplanted into a container.

HOKIDACHI: BROOM

Bonsai in style hokidati resembles a broom placed on a handle. It is suitable for broad-leaved trees with spreading thin branches that look attractive even without foliage. In nature, such forms are found in zelkova, elm or hornbeam These breeds are most often worked with, but birch, willow or oak They are definitely not suitable for creating a beautiful “broom”.

The tree trunk in hokidachi compositions is strictly vertical, but not very long. All branches diverge from one point, forming a dense spherical crown. Its ratio to the length of the trunk is 2:1.

The crown can be formed by one or more equal branches, but none of them should dominate the others. If this happens, such a branch must be greatly shortened or completely removed.

Classic Hokidachi bonsai is formed by pinching the apical shoot to 1/3 of the total height of the trunk. With the appearance of buds, the crown of the tree takes on a V-shape; they continue to work with it, pinching the branches to achieve a better result.

In a container, the Hokidachi style bonsai should be positioned strictly in the center.

IKADABUKI: THE RAFT

The center of the composition ikadabooks becomes a fallen tree, which is re-rooted on the soil in a horizontal position. The branches of the tree, obeying the laws of growth, begin to rise upward and over time turn into trunks that stand vertically, like people on a raft.

To form such bonsai, specimens are used that have more branches on one side - they are preserved, while others are removed, making shallow notches along the entire length of the trunk to speed up the formation of new roots. The tree is then pressed into the soil and secured with strips of bast or fabric.

The time it takes for a new root system to develop depends on the tree species. For maple it will take 1-2 years, for pine - up to 5 years. Only after the specified time has passed can the root of the main tree be removed and the entire composition moved to a more suitable container. Except maple And pine trees Ikadabuki style is suitable for working with juniper, euonymus, ficus.

There are two types of “rafts”: straight and curved. In the first case, the composition is based on a short and thick tree, its branches are along the same line and grow strictly vertically or with a slight slope. Another type of bonsai requires a thin, several times curved tree, on which the branches are arranged in a random order. In both the first and second cases, the new trunks may have their own bends, but then this pattern must be repeated throughout the entire composition.

SARIMIKI: DEAD WOOD

The center of compositions in style sarimiki areas of dead wood become. They are created artificially by cutting off the bark with special pliers. The movement of juices in such areas stops, and the wood dries out.

The dead areas of the trunk and branches are called, respectively, syari And gins. Gin can be split with special pliers and “tears” can be made, simulating a lightning strike. Exposed areas are treated with sandpaper and sulfurous lime to whiten the wood.

This is exactly what it looks like juniper, growing on mountain slopes under the rays of the sun. Him, along with yew, spruce or pine Most often they are used to create compositions in the sarimiki style, since the wood of these species is not affected by fungus and does not rot. Many deciduous trees can be artificially aged, but the sarimika style is quite complex: the dead areas must look beautiful, but you need to work very carefully so as not to destroy the entire tree.

SPECIAL STYLES

NETSURANARI: COMMON ROOTS

"Standing Soldiers" or netsuranari symbolizes constancy, devotion, reliability. The composition looks like a group of several trees, although all the trunks come from the same root. To do this, the tree is placed on the bottom of the container and covered with earth, and the branches are directed upward. Over time, they will become like individual trees, reminiscent of a forest.

When creating compositions in the netsuranari style, they use Japanese white pine (Pinus parvifl ora) or Ayan spruce (Picea jezoensis). The Japanese believe that these trees bring happiness.

FUKINAGASHI: TREE IN THE WIND

The image of a tree in the wind captivates and touches you at first sight; this is one of the most wonderful scenes in the art of bonsai. Apparently, Japanese craftsmen spotted it on the seashore, where the wind always blows in one direction.

Style fukinagashi imitates a tree with one or two trunks, which from birth had no choice but to bend under the pressure of the elements so as not to break. When looking at such a composition, the viewer should feel a gust of wind, so the crown of the tree should be a little disheveled and have a minimum of leaves or needles.

Fukinagashi resembles another style - shakan, but what they have in common is only the tilt that arose under the influence of natural factors. The difference is that the branches of the “tree in the wind” grow only in one direction, and not in both. Towards the top they become shorter, making the whole composition look like a developing triangular pennant.

When creating compositions in the fukinagashi style, you can use pine, juniper, sageteria And birch It is better to grow such a bonsai in a rectangular or oval container.

YSE-UE: FOREST

This style conveys the idea of ​​continuity of generations to an even greater extent than sokan: yose-ue- a whole forest family with a large mother tree at the head.

The total number of “relatives” in yose-ue compositions is always odd - from 5 to 19. Each of them is assigned a strictly defined place in the container. The “mother” is in front, with “children” located around her at different distances. To enhance the perspective, the rear trees with dense lower branches and a dense crown are placed more compactly, and the front trunks are left open. When creating a miniature forest, you can take trees of the same species, but combinations of evergreen and deciduous species look most advantageous. Most often used pine, thuja, cryptomeria, beech, hornbeam, birch, zelkova or maple. They will look best in an oval shaped container.

The complexity of the “forest” style is that it, like no other, requires complete naturalness from the composition. You need to take care of different levels of relief, rocks, and possibly additional low-growing plants. But the most difficult thing is to show the time. Looking at such a family, the viewer should see that the trees appeared in the general group gradually, over many years.

SAIKEI:LANDSCAPE IN MINIATURE

Saikei, Strictly speaking, it is not a bonsai style; it is an independent direction for creating miniature landscapes in which, in addition to trees, stones, soil, moss and other plants are used. Bonsai masters influenced the development of saikei, but this direction also absorbed the traditions of Vietnamese honnonbo(the so-called sculptural groups imitating islands, mountains and the surrounding nature), as well as some principles bonkei And bonseki(Japanese landscapes made of stones and sand).

The history of saikei goes back hundreds of years; the first images of miniature landscapes are found on scrolls of the 13th century. After World War II, this ancient art was revived thanks to a bonsai master. Toshio Kawamoto. Kawamoto founded his own school and made saikei extremely popular both in Japan and in other countries of the world. Followers continued the work of the master, raising his art to an even higher level.

Toshio Kawamoto wanted to ensure that he and his students did not have to wait too long when creating miniature landscapes, so he selected young seedlings rather than mature trees to work with. The techniques for caring for them and their styles are the same as in the art of bonsai.

However, saikei have differences, primarily ideological ones. If bonsai masters focus on the beauty of one or several trees, then in saikei they become elements of the landscape - obligatory, but not paramount. Bonsai compositions often use stones, but they do not form the landscape, while in saikei they play a very important role. Toshio Kawamoto even introduced a special classification for them - mountain, island, lonely coast etc. All elements of the composition are arranged in such a way as to recreate in miniature a natural landscape, sometimes a real one, a memorable one.

The classic saikei is placed on a large ceramic tray in neutral tones with low sides. The drainage holes at the bottom of the tray are covered with plastic mesh, after which a thin layer of soil mixture is poured onto it. Before placing trees in places, their roots can be covered with peat and clay for stability. Trees and plants should be positioned so that the viewer gets a sense of perspective - the smaller the size, the further away.

Then comes the turn of the stones; they should be laid out in accordance with the preliminary sketch. The height of all elements must be balanced so that the fragment acting as a rock is higher than the tree.

After placing the stones and trees, the space between them is filled with a soil mixture, then the entire surface is covered with soil, making sure that the layer of soil is not very thick.

Saikei is decorated with pieces of moss and placed in a place protected from wind and direct sun rays. A miniature landscape needs not only to be watered regularly, but also sprayed. In winter, the saikei should be kept in a room where the temperature does not drop below 0°.

IV: BONSAI CLASSIFICATION

SIZE

The value of a true masterpiece is determined not by its size, but by the skill and taste of the creator. Among bonsai there are very tiny trees that fit in the palm of your hand, and the famous Moonlight Pine, growing on the island of Honshu in Shizuoka Prefecture, its branches extend as much as 13 meters!

The bonsai is measured from the top to the base of the trunk, excluding the container. Cascade and semi-cascade forms are difficult, since such specimens first rise and then fall. Their size is determined from the base to the bend that the trunk forms before going down again.

There are several basic sizes of miniature trees. And, although such systematization is considered rather arbitrary, and there are discrepancies in the numbers, experts usually distinguish 5 classes of bonsai, differing in their sizes.

mom

The tiniest bonsai belong to the class mom. Among them there are real midgets - no more than 2.5 cm. This size is called Kesitsubu. They go for kesitsuba sieve(2.5-7.5 cm) and gafu(13-20 cm).

Shohin

Next class - Shohin, it includes trees up to 18 cm (komono) and from 15 to 20 cm (chumono). These bonsai are considered small, they, like mame, require increased attention due to their fragility and vulnerability. They require special containers, and tiny and small trees are replanted, pruned and watered more often than others. Such bonsai can be grown from juniper, serviceberry, rhododendron, spruce.

kifu

Medium-sized trees, up to 40 cm (Toatademochi), merged into Class kifu. Suitable for creating such bonsai barberry, field or rock maple, privet, mountain pine.

tehin

Class tehin- these are trees from 40 cm, for example, birch, hazel, pine, ash maple, elm. The largest bonsai in this class (omono) reach a meter or more, they are grown from beech, oak, elderberry, false maple, larch, linden, ash. In Japan, it is customary to place omono at the entrance to a rich estate - as a sign of cordiality and hospitality or as a symbol of the well-being of the owners.

daidza

Daiza - huge bonsai exceeding one meter . They can be seen in some ancient Japanese gardens. The most suitable breeds for such giants are considered plane tree, chestnut, black pine, elderberry, acacia, wisteria.

NUMBER OF TRUNKS

The most common compositions are those that consist of one tree growing with one trunk. They are presented in each of the styles. There are multi-stemmed bonsai with common roots, as well as groups of trees of the same or different species, each of which has its own root system. They are used when creating landscapes, making sure that the number of trunks in such compositions is odd.

AGE OF BONSAI

It takes many years to shape and perfect a miniature tree. The age of a bonsai can range from 5 years to several centuries. Centuries-old specimens are priceless; they are passed down from generation to generation, exhibited in museums or kept in private collections inaccessible to a wider audience.

The oldest trees in the garden are considered Happo-en in Tokyo. The life cycle of some of them goes back about 8 centuries. Among the venerable centenarians is the already mentioned Moonlight Pine. It is more than 6 centuries old; it is known that its first owner was the local prince Shingen Takada. Nowadays they use it to care for pine modern technologies, there is even a special platform installed under it that rotates the tree so that it is evenly illuminated from all sides.

Another unique specimen, passed down through the line of Japanese emperors, deserves special mention. This Third Generation Tokugawa Pine, because of which one of the shoguns of a powerful dynasty neglected his duties and completely devoted himself to the art of bonsai. The tree was planted 500 years ago and remains in the collection of the imperial palace to this day.

Finally, in the American arboretum National Arboretum you can see a miniature pine Yamaki, transported to the USA from Japan. She is approximately 375 years old, during the bombing of Hiroshima she was only three kilometers from the site of the fall of the atomic bomb and remained completely unharmed.

The exact age of such masterpieces cannot be determined without damaging them. Therefore, experts tend to rely on historical evidence when making assessments.

However, you should not think that a real bonsai must be very old. Indeed, it is impossible to create compositions with a split trunk or with partially peeled bark from young trees. But they also look very expressive and impressive if they are formed correctly and harmoniously.

V: BONSAI CHOICE

When creating bonsai, experts and amateurs use about 400 various types trees and shrubs. Sometimes in the compositions there are also herbaceous plants, for example, some small ferns. They are very beautiful, although in winter they need moist and cool air, otherwise their leaves will dry out.

However, classic bonsai is grown from plants that have a solid trunk and branches, that is, from trees or shrubs. Note that different countries of the world have developed their own traditions. Thus, in Japan, heavy trees with a powerful trunk and a perfectly formed crown are more common. In the USA, simple and rough specimens are valued, which often reach 1 meter in height. Europeans prefer elegant compositions with thin trunks.

When making your choice, think about the effect you expect from the future composition. You need to remember that evergreen species will delight you with their beauty all year round, while other trees are good during the flowering period or, conversely, in winter, due to the peculiar shape of their bare branches.

The queen of coniferous bonsai is considered pine, they are following her juniper, larch, thuja, cypress. From fruitful and beautiful flowering trees can I recommend acacia, guava, pomegranate, myrtle, magnolia, peach, plum, citrus. Maple- a favorite of deciduous species, but miniature ones look no less impressive oak, beech, hornbeam, willow, birch or Rowan. Deciduous trees are generally most suitable for bonsai, and those whose leaves and flowers are naturally small, as this helps to achieve a proportional relationship between all elements of the future composition.

Rocks that saturate the air with volatile healing secretions and clean it well are highly valued - these include grapefruit, lemon, fig, euonymus, hibiscus, laurel, boxwood and others. Of course, if you don’t like a particular smell, you don’t need to force yourself for the sake of beauty ideals. Remember the main rule: under no circumstances choose something that irritates you, confuses you with its appearance, color or aroma. A miniature tree should bring only positive emotions to its owner and reflect his character.

Bonsai can be grown from seeds or Yamadori- this is the name of a tree or shrub taken from a special nursery. It is better for beginners to take the second route, and they need to start with young specimens of fast-growing breeds, for example, with junipers or cypress trees. Then you will see the first results faster, acquire some skills and not lose interest.

VI: BONSAI PLACEMENT

Most bonsai are not indoor plants; they require outdoor space to grow and develop properly. Therefore, the Japanese grow them in gardens and bring them into the house on special occasions.

Exotic Japanese seedlings do not take root well in Russian conditions. But many types of our trees can decorate your summer cottage. In this case, you will not need to worry about watering, all that remains is pruning and shaping.

Accustomed to cold weather and can easily winter outside oak, birch, elm, lilac, barberry, apple, pear, plum, cherry, pine, spruce, junipers, thuja, cotoneaster, larch. However, in summer they should be protected from direct sunlight. These trees do not tolerate indoor climate well.

Indoors, our compatriots successfully cultivate tropical and subtropical plants. Among them - serissa, ficus, pomegranate, hibiscus, dracaena, cordyline,jaboticaba,gardenia and famous "Money Tree". They do not require special conditions during wintering; forming a bonsai from them is faster and easier. But some heat-loving species (cedars, cryptomerias, cypresses) In summer it is better to keep it in the garden, and in winter - in a bright, cool room, at a temperature not lower than +10 degrees. As day length and light intensity increase, they can be moved to warm room, which is especially desirable for flowering species.

VII: LIGHTING

Most indoor bonsai trees require a lot of light. Exceptions are trees that are naturally short and grow in the forest, where they are hidden from direct sunlight. For other species, you need to find a well-lit place, for example, on a windowsill, but be sure to ensure that the bonsai does not overheat. The tree must be rotated several times during the day so that all parts receive an even amount of light.

You can determine the lack of light by the distance between the leaves - internodes. During normal formation, the leaves are located on the branches close to each other. If this distance increases, then the bonsai requires additional lighting. Look elsewhere or buy a lamp - fluorescent, halogen or mercury. It is better to exclude incandescent lamps, their light differs from daylight, and heat rays can damage the bonsai. Use artificial light all year round not recommended, but in winter, as well as on cloudy days, additional lighting is necessary.

VIII: TEMPERATURE REGIME

Bonsai intended for unheated rooms are kept cold in winter at temperatures ranging from 5-12°C. Such conditions can be created in winter garden or a special greenhouse.

Tropical species thrive all year round at temperatures of 18-24°C. In the summer they are exhibited on open air, increasing the time by 30 minutes every day to gradually accustom the bonsai to the sun's rays.

The higher the temperature of a miniature tree, the more light, water and nutrients it needs. As the thermometer drops, watering and fertilizing the plant can be reduced.

IX: HUMIDITY

Humidity in the tropics, where many houseplants come from, is very high. The more moisture in the air, the less water they need. In Russian houses, where the humidity is much lower, the situation can be corrected by an aquarium placed near the bonsai. Other plants that evaporate moisture or a tray filled with water and hydroballs in which a container with a miniature tree is placed will also help. The amount of liquid must be maintained at the same level. The effectiveness of this method will be even higher if the tray and bonsai are placed above the heating system. It's easier and cheaper than using a bulky, noisy and expensive humidifier.

In the first half of the day, tropical bonsai can be sprayed with water, but not in bright and hot sun. This procedure gives only a short-term effect, so it must be carried out repeatedly, but so that the tree dries out by the evening.

Under natural conditions, powerful crowns protect trees from excessive evaporation of moisture and from pests that are repelled by swaying foliage. Indoors there is virtually no air movement, and tender shoots can become easy prey for insects. This is another reason to put the bonsai on the balcony or out into the garden, or turn on a fan nearby.

X: WATERING

Placing a miniature tree in a container has its own challenges, resulting in bonsai requiring more water than regular indoor plants. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the soil in the pot remains moist, but not wet.

It is believed that you can water a bonsai from above, from below, or alternating both of these methods. The main thing is to thoroughly moisten the entire earthen ball, and not just the surface. When watering from above, water should appear from the drainage holes of the container and flow into the pan, from where it must be removed. Watering from above helps flush out excess mineral salts from the soil, and it’s easier to monitor the penetration of moisture to the roots. You can pour water into the pan, but then you must drain the excess after it is absorbed into the soil. A bonsai container cannot be constantly in water to prevent this from happening; it even has special legs for safety.

When planting a miniature tree, the soil around it is thoroughly compacted, which is why the dense soil makes it difficult for moisture to reach the roots of the bonsai. Therefore, bonsai are sometimes simply lowered into a basin of water - this is another way to properly wet the earthen ball.

The watering regime and its frequency depend on the type of tree. Coniferous bonsai require less moisture compared to deciduous bonsai. In summer, during the period of intensive growth, watering should be done daily, and in hot weather - twice a day, which does not apply to subtropical plants. In winter, once or twice a week is enough, and not so much.

To bring bonsai maintenance conditions closer to natural, miniature trees are watered only in the morning and evening hours, at a time when dew falls in nature. But if on a hot day you see that the bonsai leaves are drooping, cool it first in the shade, and then lower the container into a container with warm water. When the tree quenches its thirst, spray it. The water temperature during watering and spraying should be several degrees higher than the ambient temperature.

The best water for irrigation is melted water; tap water should be left for three days or purified with a household filter. Water hardness can create problems when growing bonsai; filters with ion exchange resins help solve them; they remove impurities of calcium and magnesium salts. If this is not done, then over time a white chalky sediment will appear on the surface of the earth and on the bark, which cannot be removed. Hard water leaves an indelible coating on the leaves, so keep this in mind when spraying bonsai.

Proper watering is one of the main conditions for caring for miniature trees. Even a single overdrying will almost certainly destroy most of them, as will an excess of moisture. Planting bonsai in well-formed soil reduces the risk of consequences from improper watering.

XI: SOIL, DRAINAGE

Ready-made soil, which is used for growing ordinary indoor plants, is not suitable for bonsai. The correct soil mixture is a substrate consisting of sand, clay, humus(old leaves, pine needles, peat, rotted bark). This substrate can be purchased at the store or made yourself.

For deciduous rocks, the mixture is prepared from 7 parts clay and 3 parts sand. Flowering and fruit-bearing trees need soil containing 6 parts clay, 3 parts sand and 1 part leaf humus. When working with coniferous bonsai, clay and sand are taken in a ratio of 6 to 4.

A small amount can be added to the substrate organic fertilizers- horn sawdust, blood, fish or bone meal, rapeseed cake (3 g of organic matter per 1 kg of soil). After all the components are thoroughly mixed, the mixture is neutralized from weed seeds and pathogens by heating it for 15 minutes at 100 °C in a saucepan or other suitable container.

In addition to the substrate, drainage is placed in the container - broken shards, pebbles, expanded clay, coarse wet sand or special chemically neutral granules. The size of the latter is 3-4 mm. Smaller granules will spill out of the drainage holes, and larger ones will stick together, causing the drainage to stop letting water through. The weaker the plant’s root system, the larger the drainage layer should be.

XII: BONSAI CONTAINER

The right container is critical when growing a miniature tree. Let us note that in the art of bonsai it is not just a container, but one of the most important elements of the entire composition; it must be in complete harmony with the tree. The Japanese even have a special term - hachiutsuri, it is used to assess the compositional unity of all components of bonsai.

It is not surprising that the bowl in which the tree grows is sometimes itself a work of art. Here's just one historical reference: in 2011, to a buyer who paid $1,296,850 for a three-century-old bonsai Pinus parviflora, had to pay extra for the pot in which the white one was sold Japanese pine, another $493,000.

Of course, such masterpieces are only affordable for wealthy collectors who attend special auctions where rare antique utensils are exhibited. For someone who is just learning the basics of art, an ordinary high-quality container, chosen according to the rules given below, is quite suitable.

First of all, such a vessel must be made of natural materials - clay, earthenware or porcelain. It should be remembered that clay pots absorb moisture well, therefore, you will have to water the tree more abundantly and more often. And if your bonsai will grow in the garden, it will need frost-resistant ceramics.

The walls of the pots are covered with glaze, but only on the outside, otherwise the soil inside will slide off without touching them. Such products are very beautiful, but, unlike unglazed ones, they are less capable of transmitting oxygen and moisture from the air to the roots. Therefore, unglazed pots are recommended while the tree is still growing and getting stronger.

The shape of the container can be arbitrary - square, rectangular, round, oval. As a general rule, most straight and tall bonsai are grown in shallow containers. According to experts, a low bowl imitates a plain or clearing on which a lone tree stands. Such a container is also preferable because it promotes the formation of a flat root system for the tree. For bonsai with a wide crown and a powerful trunk, medium-height vessels are suitable. Deep and tall pots are needed when working with cascading styles, in which case the container plays the role of a “rock”.

The proportions of the container and the tree must be balanced so that the container, on the one hand, does not overwhelm the bonsai, and on the other, fully corresponds to the height of the trunk and the size of the root system.

A miniature tree needs to be watered frequently. To protect the roots from rotting, more drainage holes are made in the bottom of the container than in ordinary flower pots. The holes are covered with a special mesh made of thick plastic with a cell size of about 3 mm. It is specially made in Japan, but a regular “mosquito” will do.

The color of the container should go well with the foliage or needles. Flashy colors will distract the viewer’s attention, so in general, experts suggest choosing soft shades of brown, green, gray or blue. In Japan, coniferous trees are usually planted in brown tones or bowls made of unglazed ceramics. For hardwoods use beige, green or blue. Flowering bonsai look beautiful in black or white pots. The most important thing is not to combine cold and warm colors in one composition. You should not grow blue juniper in a terracotta container, and pine in a blue glazed one, this will be a gross violation of the hachiutsuri principle.

When choosing a container, you need to pay attention to the age of your bonsai. Young specimens are first placed in ordinary flower pots- they are also called “expanding”, because in them the root system can develop freely. When the bonsai acquires the desired shape, the tree is transplanted into a flat container, reducing the volume of the roots by pruning.

XIII: BONSAI REPRODUCTION

There are two ways to propagate bonsai: vegetative, in which cuttings, shoots or scions are used, and seed. In indoor conditions, they most often resort to the first method, the simplest and most reliable. Some seeds tropical plants germination requires a fairly high temperature and humidity; there is no way to do this without a greenhouse with bottom heating.

REPRODUCTION BY CUTTINGS

A cutting is a part of a root, leaf or shoot from which, with proper care, you can get a new plant. Stem cuttings It takes from 10 days to several weeks for the root system to form and growth to begin. The timing depends on the type of plant, its age and ability to form new roots and shoots.

Can be propagated by cuttings coniferous trees, except for spruce, pine and fir, using the same soil mixtures for rooting as for seeds. Some cuttings root better when they are very young, others - when they are older.

There are three types of cuttings: green, actively growing, semi-lignified and lignified.

Green cuttings cut from the tops of rapidly growing young shoots under a node or bud, leaving 3-5 leaves on top and exposing the lower third. It is best to do this in the spring, in the morning. The parent plant is pre-pruned, this stimulates the appearance of fresh shoots. Make sure that the cut is smooth and free of burrs and under no circumstances touch it with your hands.

The finished cuttings are buried a third of their length in the soil mixture. They are very sensitive to lack of moisture, so watering should be plentiful and the water temperature should be between 20 - 25°C. If the cuttings are not planted immediately after cutting, they must be placed in a container with water.

Semi-lignified cuttings - these are the bases of shoots 10-15 cm long, they are harvested at the end of summer. When cutting, the shoots are pulled down so that a piece of wood about 1.5-2 cm is split off from the main stem of the parent tree (this “heel” promotes rooting). The leaves from the lower third of the cutting are removed, and the cut is treated with a growth regulator.

Semi-lignified cuttings placed in a soil mixture at a temperature of 14-18°C, the best option for them is a cold greenhouse. The growth of cuttings is supported liquid fertilizer, fertilizing should be regular.

Lignified cuttings are rare, although this method is applicable for the propagation of some shrubs that have a dormant period when their growth has completely stopped, the foliage has been shed, and the stems have hardened. For propagation, lignified shoots with 5-6 buds are chosen. To speed up the process of root formation, the cuttings are buried in a greenhouse at an angle of 45°, deepening 3 buds into the ground.

Woody cuttings can dry out due to evaporation from the surface of the shoots, which most often explains their lack of newly formed roots. Therefore, for the upper part of the cutting it will be necessary to create conditions of low temperature. This way the buds will not bloom, and all the energy of the bonsai will go to the development of the root system. Cuttings in which it forms very slowly are treated with special growth regulators.

REPRODUCTION BY LOCATIONS

Layerings are a type of cuttings, the difference being that they are separated from the parent tree only after they have taken root. Layers may be ordinary And air.

Regular layering applicable when you are dealing with a tree whose lower branches are so close to the ground that they can be bent to it without breaking. These include ficus magnolias, pine trees, forsythia, weigels, irga, aralia.

After the desired branch has been selected, porous vegetable compost is poured underneath it. When working with a parent tree growing in a container, you can use a pot set at the desired height.

In the place where the branch should grow new roots, make 1-2 longitudinal cuts, and clean off the foliage around it. After this, the branch is pressed to the surface and recessed by 10 cm, securing it with wire in the ground or pressing it with something heavy. The soil should always be moist. Once the roots are strong, the cuttings can be separated from the parent plant.

Air layering allow form a bonsai in the shortest possible time from branches of a relatively mature tree. This method is suitable for Crassulas,rhododendron, maples, beeches, cedars, pyracantha, pomegranate, elm, quince, willow and many others. Their branches are located high from the surface of the earth and do not reach it. But it turns out that you can bring the earth itself closer to the branches, although it is best to do this in the spring.

After selecting a suitable stem, 2-3 longitudinal cuts 3-5 cm long are made under one of its buds. Using ordinary matches, they are slightly expanded and treated with growth stimulants. The cuts are pressed with damp moss and vegetable compost. Then these places are wrapped with a piece of perforated polyethylene film or coarse cloth and water generously. Once the roots appear, the protective wrap is removed, the cuttings are cut off and transplanted into a container.

GRAFT

Grafting is a rather complicated procedure; it should be carried out only after acquiring gardening skills, but even then it can give unexpected results. Therefore, it is better to carry out the first experiments on inexpensive material. Grafting is usually used if other methods of propagation are impossible or in emergency cases, for example, to save a bonsai with a damaged root system.

With the help of grafting, you can achieve the appearance of flowers of different colors on one tree. Agree that a miniature plum with white, pink and red flowers will look very impressive. In addition, this method allows you to add branches to the sparse part of the tree crown to make it thicker.

Vaccination has one more thing important advantage. Bonsai grown from seeds may be genetically different from their parents, while grafted specimens fully retain their characteristic features.

Grafting is nothing more than the implantation of a part of a plant (scion) into the rootstock - that is, into the trunk, branch or roots of an individual of the same species. The grafting site is tied with a strong elastic material for fixation and coated with a special mastic, which protects the sections from atmospheric influences, insect pests and pathogens. The best period for such a procedure is spring, since sap flow begins at this time, or summer.

Grafting into cleft allows you to implant new branches into the tree. The rootstock is split with a knife to a depth of 3-5 cm and a cutting cut off on both sides with a wedge (scion) is inserted into the gap. It is cut either from the parent tree or from another tree of the same species. This grafting can only be done on thin branches in the spring.

Inoculation (budding) necessary in cases where it is necessary to combine a male and female tree in order to obtain a bisexual specimen that produces fruit. The rootstock is sprayed with a spray bottle, after which the letter “T” is cut out on the bark. By pulling back the bark, a “peephole” is inserted into the incision - a bud with a shield, cut from a scion shoot. After this, the graft is tied and sealed.

The budding takes root when the petiole of the eye falls off, which usually happens in the spring of the following year. The chances of success increase several simultaneous buddings in different places: this way you can get not one, but several new branches.

Lateral incision grafting used when working with evergreen tree species. On the rootstock, closer to the root collar, a side cut is made about 5 cm deep. A cutting cut obliquely on both sides is inserted into it, then this place is wrapped in cloth and coated with mastic. This grafting is carried out in the summer, and in the spring the scion begins to grow. It is cut at an angle, directly above the grafting site.

Vaccination for bark makes it possible to form a bonsai with numerous trunks, it also promotes the growth of old trees. A vertical cut about 3 cm long is made on the trunk of the parent tree, after which the bark is separated from the wood, and a scion of a smaller diameter is inserted under it. The grafting site is tied with cloth and coated with mastic. This method allows you to graft several cuttings onto one rootstock at once. But this procedure should only be carried out on large trees in the spring.

Proximity grafting (ablactation) - this is the merging of two independently growing branches. This phenomenon is very common in nature, and gardeners have been using this method since time immemorial. It is simple and reliable, since the spliced ​​branches continue to be nourished, because the movement of juices through them does not stop. The chances of successful fusion with ablactation are much higher than with cuttings.

During grafting, about 3 cm of bark is cut off from the scion and rootstock. After that, they are connected, tied and covered with mastic.

Approximation grafting is carried out in the spring, and by autumn the scion takes root. It is separated by cutting off part of the rootstock directly above the alignment point.

GROWING FROM SEEDS

This method is long and painstaking, but it is the one that allows you to create the most beautiful compositions. Remember that there are no “special bonsai seeds”; you will need those that you can buy at any garden store or collect yourself.

The seeds of some plants need to be sown immediately because they germinate immediately after harvest. Others should be stored in a cool, dry place for some time. Still others can germinate in autumn or winter, but first they must be placed in damp sand for several days.

Sowing is carried out in spring or from late summer to mid-autumn. Sow the seeds in soil sifted through a fine sieve and mixed with sand. Large seeds are sprinkled with a thin layer of soil, while small ones are left on the surface, after which they are watered with a spray bottle, covered with glass on top or placed in a greenhouse.

Later, the top layer of soil is slightly dried. This protects the seeds from rotting and provides them with air. Depending on the type of plant, germination time ranges from 1 to 2 months.

The emerging shoots are ventilated, but not watered so often so that the roots do not rot. Seedlings grown from seeds are transplanted into containers and watered.

XIV: TRANSPLANTING AND FORMATION OF BONSAI

TRANSFER

Every plant grown artificially needs regular replanting. This is due to the fact that the composition of the soil in the container deteriorates over time, its granular structure is destroyed, and organic residues accumulate in it. The balance of microelements is disrupted and changes chemical composition, as a result, the soil becomes acidic, as evidenced by a decrease in the size of the leaves.

Miniature trees are no exception; they also need to be replanted in order to achieve the correct ratio of roots and crowns. Thus, the main tasks when replanting a bonsai are to replace part of the soil and remove oppressed or too thick roots.

Young trees up to 3-4 years old are replanted annually, adults - once every 2-3 years, and old trees can be left undisturbed for 10-15 years. Coniferous species require this procedure more often than deciduous species. In the same way, bonsai that grow all year round in warm climates are replanted once every 2-3 years, and more frost-resistant ones - after 5 years.

If we are not talking about emergency tree rescue, then the best time for replanting is spring or autumn. First, the bonsai needs to be dried a little, for which watering is stopped for 1-2 days so that the earthen lump decreases in size and separates itself from the walls of the container. The tree is taken by the base of the trunk and carefully turned left and right. If it sits tightly in the container, gently push it from below by pressing a stick onto the earthen ball through the drainage hole, or use a thin metal spatula with rounded edges.

Before trimming the roots, straighten them with small rakes; if you don’t have one at hand, they will do Khasi- traditional Japanese chopsticks. The roots are cut directly with the soil - so that they protrude 2-3 cm from the earthen ball. The cutting tool must be very sharp in order to injure the bonsai as little as possible.

After this, change the drainage and add fresh soil substrate to the container. The bonsai is placed inside, rotated around its axis to straighten the thin roots and fall asleep. Fresh substrate must fill the entire space; air cavities are detrimental to the root system. The tree, if necessary, can be secured in the container using copper wire, but in no case should you bury the trunk into the ground and fill up the root collar - this will lead to the death of the bonsai.

When transplanting miniature trees, the container is not changed, except in cases where there is a desire to improve the composition. Make sure that the new container does not greatly exceed the size of the old one; a bonsai with small roots in a large container will most likely not take root, as the soil may become acidic. If you still use another container, and one that has already been used, disinfect it in a solution of potassium permanganate, and scald the new one with boiling water.

After replanting is completed, the bonsai should be watered generously and placed away from direct sunlight and drafts.

FORMATION OF BONSAI

FORMATION OF ROOTS

Strong, healthy, well-developed root system - the most important condition for bonsai, otherwise the tree will simply die. Thin underground roots supply the trunk and branches with moisture and microelements, and large ones protruding to the surface keep the tree in the ground.

The condition of the root system is determined during bonsai transplants. Rotten and dry areas are cut off with a sharp instrument. After this, the roots are straightened so that they diverge radially from the trunk.

Particular attention should be paid nebari - aboveground roots. They should not only be strong, but also beautiful, smoothly curved. It is also desirable that the nebari do not protrude beyond half the diameter of the crown, so you will have to work a lot with them. The formation of above-ground roots begins from the first days of bonsai cultivation. They are shaped like an octopus using copper wire. It is better not to touch fragile and inflexible areas. After this, the nebari are sprinkled with earth so that they become stiff faster. No later than two months later, the wire is removed. This must be done very carefully, using wire cutters. The nebari is then covered again with a layer of earth.

BARREL THICKENING

The thick trunk gives the bonsai the appearance of a mature tree. To accelerate its growth in width, use different ways. To do this, for the first 3-5 years, the bonsai is regularly replanted into a larger container, and then they begin to use flat containers, which leads to a natural thickening of the trunk. During the period of active growth, flexible but already lignified trunks are carefully bent at the base in different directions every week, as a result of which the tree begins to actively increase its mass. A bonsai with the same thickness along its entire length is tightly wrapped with wire, and after it begins to overgrow with bark, it is carefully removed. As a result, growths appear on the trunks; they overgrow over time, forming thickenings.

Sometimes, although quite rarely, the neck of the main root is tightened tightly with a wire loop. The juices in this part begin to stagnate, which leads to the appearance of tissue deposits. The operation is very risky and may result in thinning of the roots.

The thickening of the trunk is also facilitated by the growth of a large lateral branch in the lower part of the tree. It is removed only at the last stages of bonsai formation, even if it stands out from the overall composition.

The trunk should taper towards the top; for a twenty-centimeter tree, the ratio of its thickness to height should be 1 to 6. Please note that as your bonsai expands in width, it becomes more and more difficult to shape it.

PINCH

Pinching or pinching is one of the main methods of forming a bonsai crown. In spring, excessive development of shoots leads to the formation of new shoots and an increase in the spaces between leaf cuttings. The lower branches begin to weaken and die, and the upper ones begin to grow stronger and expand in breadth, and only the shoots at the ends thicken, while the others, the “axillary” ones, grow slowly. If this process is not controlled, the entire composition will lose balance. By plucking the tops of young shoots and stopping their growth, you can stimulate the formation of numerous small branches.

Pinching is carried out with fingers folded into a pinch or with tweezers. Overly strong shoots are trimmed with sharp scissors. In coniferous species, they are removed by 2/3 of the length; in representatives of a mixed forest, only 2-3 leaves are left, cutting off all the terminal ones.

Branches need to be given special attention; unplanned and unnecessary shoots appear in such places most often. As they grow, they disrupt the normal supply of nutrients to the old branches, which play a key role in the composition, and lead to their death.

On branches that are specially grown, more shoots need to be left, but when they threaten to turn into branches, they get rid of them. Weakened bonsai should not be pinched until they have regained their vitality.

Pinching begins immediately after the appearance of young shoots. Delay threatens to increase the gaps between the leaves and a sharp deterioration in the shape of the tree crown - especially in maple. Some types, for example cryptomeria or juniper needle require repeated pinching until September.

CUTTING

It is simply impossible to create a bonsai without resorting to pruning. Some modern Chinese craftsmen even now use this technique exclusively, and fundamentally ignore wire. Pruning is one of the most important operations in the art of bonsai; it is with its help that the tree is given the desired shape, achieving the correct correspondence between the root system and the crown. In addition, it promotes better movement of juices. Remember that such an operation is a huge burden for bonsai, it can only be used on healthy specimens - and only those that have not been subjected to it for a year.

Trimming excess branches and shoots is one of the very first actions that are carried out on a tree when forming a bonsai. Beginners can be advised to start with fast-growing species that have small leaves.

At the first stage, in order to develop a sense of form, they make an arched pruning of the tree crown. Removing branches presents certain difficulties for beginners; it is not always clear what to leave and what to sacrifice. In such cases, it is recommended to simply close one or another branch with your hand and see whether the entire composition benefits from this or not. There are a few general rules: Feel free to part with branches located opposite each other, crossing, as well as weak and too thin.

While working, you will need special tools: nippers that can be used to trim branches of medium thickness and a folding file for thicker branches. Another nipper (concave) is used when processing irregularities remaining in the trunk from cut thick branches.

Cutting areas must be immediately treated with the same products intended for ordinary garden trees, for example , liquid varnish-balm on acrylic base. It can be applied in damp weather or when juice is flowing from the wound. Another proven remedy - garden var, resembling putty. But before you coat dry cuts with it, wet your hands in water.

The most suitable time for pruning branches is winter or early spring, when all Live nature is still at rest. If you start work during this period, your tree will more easily endure the operation and will not lose its sap. The thinnest branches can be pruned without harming the bonsai all year round.

Defoliation or removing foliage serves to renew and rejuvenate the crown. As a result of this procedure, the number of leaves increases, and their size noticeably decreases. By defoliating a tree, you can regulate its further development: the buds located in the nodes of the removed leaves will begin to grow, while others will remain dormant.

Defoliation is carried out in the summer, once every 2-3 years, but not in the year of transplantation; the tree must be healthy and strong. The leaf blades are cut with sharp scissors in whole or in part, and the petiole is always left. When the work is completed, the bonsai is placed in a shaded area until new leaves appear.

USING WIRE

The invention of wire tying is considered the most significant event in the history of bonsai. This discovery was made by accident. At the end of the 19th century, an amateur from the city of Osaka sent his friend in Tokyo a miniature pine tree, the branches of which were secured with wire to avoid breakage. Thanks to such a happy accident, which greatly simplified the process of forming miniature trees, the ancient art received a rebirth.

It takes patience and practice to learn how to use all wire techniques correctly. Practice, develop your skills - this is the only way to achieve a good result.

When creating bonsai, you can use wire with a thickness of 0.7 to 7 mm. A simple rule will help you determine the exact size: the branch or trunk being fixed should be 3 times thicker. In other words, if you are working on a 1cm thick branch, use 3mm wire.

FRAMEWORKS

To give the branches or trunk of a tree the desired shape, a wire frame is placed on them. This technique is most often used when working with coniferous species, their bark is rough, marks from winding on it quickly overgrow. However, this process must be monitored and the metal must not be cut into the trunk and branches to prevent the formation of unsightly spiral scars.

Deciduous trees are usually formed by pruning; the need to use wire when working with them does not arise so often. On smooth-bore beeches, elms, maples and lindens, the wire frame should not remain on for long, otherwise the marks from the wrapping will be visible for decades.

At the first stage, all branches are fixed - up to the top of the shoots. The wire turns are applied at an angle of 45°. Make sure that no branch crosses another, each of them should have its own direction.

The best time to form a bonsai using wire is winter or early spring: at this time there is no foliage on the trees, it is easier to work with them. With the arrival of heat, the movement of sap accelerates, the branches and trunk thicken, so there should always be a small gap between the winding and the wood.

After about 3 months, when the desired shapes of the trunk and branches are fixed, the wire “scaffolding” is removed from the miniature tree. In order not to damage the bonsai, the winding is not untwisted, but carefully cut with special nippers.

STAPLES

Staples are used in cases where the usual application of wire will not give the desired result, for example when changing the direction of growth of thick branches and trunks. And for multi-trunk bonsai, you can adjust the entire composition in this way. To prevent the staples from cutting into the bark, they must be periodically moved, not forgetting to place pieces of leather under them.

STRETCHES

Guy wires are installed to pull down branches growing upward. This technique is not as labor-intensive as applying a frame, but even here you need to carefully ensure that the wire does not cut into the tree bark.

DEAD WOOD

REMOVAL OF BARK

Removing bark from branches and trunk is practiced to artificially age a tree, for example, when creating compositions in the style sarimiki. Such work can be done by people with experience, a sense of form and certain gardening skills. You cannot completely expose the branches that you are going to leave alive; you must preserve them narrow areas bark through which water and nutrients will flow to the foliage. Only those parts of the tree that are intended to be dead can be completely exposed.

The process of removing the bark is not particularly difficult, but then the bare areas need to be processed with a wood knife. Such an operation will require skill, so first it is better to practice on some cuttings, and at the same time carefully observe similar specimens in the wild. When starting to remove the bark, prepare all necessary tool: wood carving knives, pliers, concave cutters, sandpaper. Do not rush to use power tools, they make the job easier, but you need to get used to them so as not to damage the bonsai.

For bleaching, use a solution of lime sulphide with the addition of black paint. The solution must be applied three times a year, washing off the old layer. Take precautions: sulfur entering the soil can destroy beneficial microorganisms. Do not touch living parts of the tree without washing your hands after using the solution.

SPLIT

Cleavage or Sabamiki used in cases where you want to reproduce the result of a lightning strike in your composition. In natural conditions, such specimens are quite common and, although they are no longer full-fledged trees, their appearance is very picturesque. To create a similar effect, the bonsai trunk is split with nippers and wedges, creating woody burrs - gins And sari. However, such an operation, like sarimiki, requires knowledge and experience.

TYPICAL MISTAKES WHEN FORMING BONSAI

It is impossible to avoid mistakes when growing miniature trees, especially for beginners. Mistakes should not discourage you; the pinnacle of art can only be achieved by constantly experimenting and listening to the advice of more experienced specialists. Below are some common beginner mistakes pointed out by John Yoshio Naka, one of the greatest modern bonsai masters.

1: no vertex;

2: tree branches look like wheel spokes;

3: branch forming a “fork”;

4: straight growing branch;

5: branch resembling a stump;

6: branches located at the same level;

7: branch growing upward;

8: short branch adjacent to larger ones;

9: parallel branches;

10: branch growing in the wrong direction;

11: branch crossing the trunk;

12: branch forming a knee;

13: randomly growing branches;

14: branch with thickening;

15: intersecting branches;

16: rounded branches;

17: branch growing down;

18: “U”-shaped branch;

XV: BONSAI TOOLS

The art of bonsai would never have reached such heights if not for the advent of many specialized tools and tools designed for growing miniature trees. Over time, they have improved and become widespread among amateurs all over the world.

The quality and price of these tools vary, but good ones are not cheap. This is due to the fact that interference in the life of a miniature tree can be compared to a serious surgical operation on the human body. Bonsai are fragile and vulnerable, you need to work with them very carefully, for this you need special tweezers, wire cutters, and knives. In addition, using high-quality tools, you will form a beautiful tree in a shorter time and with less effort, which will then be easier to care for. Of course, a small kit is enough for beginners at first; you can purchase everything else as needed.

In the bonsai tools market, preference is traditionally given to Japanese products - primarily due to the high quality of steel. IN Lately some tools are made of stainless steel, which puts even more pressure on the pockets of bonsai lovers. However, good carbon steel scissors or wire cutters are no less reliable if you remember to clean and lubricate them regularly.

BASIC TOOLS

necessary for pruning small branches and removing leaves in the thick of the crown.

are used in cases where strong shoots are difficult to tear off with your fingers.

They have thick blades that allow you to trim strong branches and roots.

Wire cutters : They provide a clean, symmetrical cut and have a rounded head that protects the branch from damage.

Concave cutters: designed to cut branches flush with the trunk, leaving an elongated indentation. The cutting edge of these pliers is razor-sharp, so the wound on the tree heals quickly. This is a very important tool that cannot be replaced by garden shears, which work on the wood from a different angle.

Convex cutters : are used for quick and clean removal of growths from the trunk and roots. The head of the pliers is made in the shape of a ball, which is why they are also called “spherical”.

Root nippers: They have reinforced blades that allow you to cut dense wood. These pliers are used for cutting roots when replanting bonsai.

Barrel splitter: This tool allows you to split wood with the least residual damage. Its head shape and symmetrical cutting blades provide both separation and cutting, resulting in a clean split.

Small saw: used for cutting branches that cannot be removed with scissors and pliers. The small angle of its teeth gives a smooth, clean cut. The saw blade is slightly curved.

Wire: copper or aluminum, the latter comes in two types - white and brown (anodized), its thickness ranges from 1 to 4 mm. Iron wire or that used in floristry is not suitable for forming miniature trees; it is not flexible enough and, moreover, rusts. Before use, copper wire must be annealed, that is, heated to red and quickly cooled in water so that it becomes soft and wraps around branches more easily. When working with branches thicker than 3 mm, it is better to use aluminum wire, and for delicate shoots, use thin copper wire (up to 0.5 mm), which does not need to be annealed.

has a multifunctional purpose, for example, for grafting, layering, pruning strong roots and small trunks.

necessary when straightening particularly difficult branches of large bonsai. Clamps come in a variety of sizes and are designed to allow you to increase the pressure every few weeks or as you achieve the desired result. These tools must be used carefully so as not to interrupt the movement of sap in the branch.

needed for plucking needles, removing unnecessary buds, cleaning bonsai from insects, weeds and small debris at the base of the tree. The reverse side of the tweezers is shaped like a spatula, so they are also convenient for loosening or compacting the soil.

Master OK: helps compact the soil and fix the bonsai in the container.

Khasi: Traditional Japanese chopsticks are used to gently untangle the roots when replanting a bonsai.

Hooks with teeth: replace hasi when unraveling stronger and thicker roots without damaging them.

has many uses - from soil compaction to cleaning the base of trunks and containers.

designed to loosen or remove soil around the roots.

have built-in sieves that sift dust. They will come in handy if you prepare large quantities of soil in the winter and need to sift it before using it in the spring.

Sieve: used to obtain soil with different grain sizes.

Watering can: has a long spout and a fine mesh that cuts the stream of water when watering bonsai.

Spray: used to evenly spray insecticides and spray the bonsai crown with water.

Garden mastic: a special product for processing fresh cuts, helping to avoid the formation of scars on the tree bark.

INSTRUMENT CARE

If soon good tools for bonsai are not cheap, it is worth making sure that they last longer. After work, be sure to clean them of dirt and resin, wipe scissors and nippers with alcohol. Cutting tools that you do not use for a long time should be stored in a dry place, having previously lubricated them with machine oil and wrapped in wool fabric. Knives and wire cutters need to be sharpened from time to time; you can do this yourself using a grinding stone.

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Bonsai is a special technique for growing dwarf trees indoors. Essentially, bonsai is the art of creating the tree you want. For the plant, you can choose the most common cuttings of aspen, birch, pine, oak or juniper. Using various tricks, a strong large tree is forced to grow in small indoor pots, thanks to which a very beautiful small tree grows that fits amazingly into a modern interior.

In the East, the bonsai technique is equated to the art of creating sculptures or painting. The history of bonsai began from the times of the samurai. When warriors went on campaigns, they certainly took with them small trees, personifying eternal youth and life.

How to plant a bonsai

An adult bonsai is not a cheap pleasure. In addition, a bonsai grown by someone else will not bring you proper satisfaction and joy. Old-timers of the East say that growing bonsai from scratch gives a person strength, teaches wisdom and patience.

To grow a dwarf tree at home, you need to go to the nearest park and find a small shoot of any tree. Remember that bonsai is a prototype big tree, so you need to choose the varieties that suit your taste. That is, if you do not want to see leaves falling in autumn and bare branches in winter, you need to choose evergreen tree species. Also pay attention to which trees do well in your strip. You shouldn't plant a palm tree or banana tree if it doesn't get enough sunlight.

Walk through the park and decide on the choice of tree. This can be ficus, oak, elm, birch and any other plants. Dig up a small tree cutting. Typically, viable shoots nestle near the roots of a large tree. There, in the park, you need to collect land for planting. This is done so that the tree gets into “familiar”, that is, soil that is familiar to it.

To plant a plant, you need to prepare a pot. Bonsai grows very well and takes the desired shape in wide and shallow ceramic pots. The pot should be shallow enough to just cover the roots of the tree. Ceramics, in turn, perfectly retains moisture, which is so necessary when planting plants shallowly. However, for the first time, until the tree has grown stronger and gained strength, it can be planted in a regular pot for indoor plants.

At the bottom of the pot you need to make drainage - scatter expanded clay pebbles or just brick shards. To prepare the soil, you need to mix three parts of the soil brought from the park with one part of sand and one part of peat. Mix the soil and pour it into the pot. Plant a tree in it, after cutting off the long roots. This is another important part of growing a tree. With each transplant, you need to cut off the roots of the tree, leaving no more than 10 cm. This allows the plant to grow in breadth rather than height.

Growing bonsai is quite simple. Most trees do not require any special conditions. Immediately after planting the tree, it should be watered abundantly and placed in fresh air - for example, on a balcony or on a windowsill on the outside of a window.

Fertilizers
Since there is not much soil in the pot, the bonsai needs to be fertilized regularly. The plant needs to be fed once every three weeks during the period of active growth. In winter, fertilizing can be canceled. Typically, bonsai are fertilized with a mixture of minerals, which include nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Some crops, such as pine and maple, are not fertilized with nitrogen, otherwise it can provoke active growth of these trees, which is unacceptable for us.

Watering a bonsai tree
Bonsai should be watered sparingly; the amount of water the plant requires depends on its type. However, you should not allow the soil to dry out completely, since a shallow pot does not allow the tree to accumulate moisture. It is best to water the plant as soon as the top layer of soil dries out. In winter, watering is reduced to a minimum. If the room is very hot and dry, you need to place the pot with the plant in a pan of water. Bonsai also needs regular spraying - this makes it look fresher.

Temperature and amount of sunlight
Most crops are quite unpretentious regarding the temperature in the room where they grow. Try to regularly take your “pet” out into the fresh air - put it on the balcony. Most trees grow normally at temperatures between -10 degrees and +40 degrees Celsius.

But there should be a lot of sunlight all year round. Place the bonsai on the windows on the sunny side of the house. And only in the middle of summer should the tree be protected from direct sunlight, otherwise the crown will simply turn yellow.

Bonsai pruning
Pruning is one of the main conditions for growing aesthetically. beautiful plant. Even at the very beginning of growing a tree, you need to decide on the shape that you would like to see in your pot. Trees can be pruned so that they are straight and tall, spreading and low, asymmetrical, spherical, etc.

When pruning, it is important to consider some features. If you want to speed up and improve the growth of a plant in a certain direction, you need to cut off only the tops of the branches that grow in that direction. When you remove only the top leaves, the plant grows faster in that direction. If, on the contrary, you want to stop the growth of branches in a certain direction, the branches need to be “pinched”, that is, removed from the very base of the trunk. Most likely, new shoots will no longer grow from this place.

From the very beginning of the seedling's growth, it is necessary to constantly form the crown of the plant. This accelerates the growth of leaves, at the same time making them small and decorative. Typically, the tree is pruned in spring and summer using small pruners or scissors. There is no need to prune the tree while it is flowering, otherwise it will never bloom again.

Many gardeners who are just starting to grow bonsai do not understand how such a dwarf plant can be obtained from a large viable tree. Here are a few secrets that will help you understand bonsai shaping.

1. Small capacity. If you plant a seedling in a large container, you will get real garden tree. The small size of the shoots is achieved by using a shallow bonsai pot. There is not much soil there to allow growth to take place. And in order to replenish the plant’s strength, you need to replant the tree every few years in fresh soil saturated with minerals and fertilizers.
2. Minimum fertilizers. To slow down the growth of a tree, you need to fertilize it, but to a minimum. You should not allow active growth and development of the crown.
3. Frequent pruning of young shoots. If you constantly prune young branches, all the growth of the tree will go towards the thickness of the trunk, which is what we want to achieve.
4. Root trimming. With each transplant, you need to ruthlessly cut off the roots of the tree, leaving only small branches no more than 12 cm long.
5. Tree bark cuts. If a tree stubbornly strives to grow upward, you need to stop the flow of sap under its bark. To do this, cuts are made on the bark or the trunk is simply tied with wire for several months.

All these techniques can be carried out only after the seedling has been completely strengthened, otherwise it may lead to the death of the fragile tree.

What ails bonsai

Bonsai can usually get sick from all those diseases and pests that affect big trees this type. The main pests of bonsai trees are: spider mite, aphids, scale insects. Like other houseplants, bonsai can suffer from mold and mildew. You can get rid of pests using medicinal compositions for indoor plants, which are sold in specialized stores. You can also wipe the tree trunk with garlic tincture, which kills insects. If your plant is sick, it means you did not follow temperature regime, amount of watering and other living conditions of the plant.

Growing a beautiful, elegant and exquisite bonsai tree is a true hobby that requires patience and endurance. Bonsai is not just floriculture, it is the real art of creating beauty.

Video: how to grow a bonsai tree with your own hands

According to legend, the Chinese emperor decided to observe his country with his own eyes, for which the masters of the Celestial Empire had to create tiny copies of houses, people and, of course, trees. Bonsai, almost fifteen centuries ago, first conquered Japan, and today this amazing art has conquered the whole world.

Like many centuries ago, the goal of a gardener passionate about bonsai is to reproduce the creations of nature itself. Small copies of oaks, maples, pines, sakura or ficus trees have realistic proportions, they live according to nature’s routine. If a deciduous tree is grown in a pot, it blooms, becomes covered with leaves and goes into winter dormancy.

Because the craftsmanship of a real tree is shaped by hand, growing and caring for a bonsai is labor-intensive, time-consuming, and requires knowledge, patience, and an understanding of your green pet's needs.

And yet, more and more newcomers are enthusiastically taking on difficult but very exciting work. How to grow a bonsai at home and care for a small copy of a real tree?

How to grow bonsai at home: common methods

If a gardener is just beginning to become interested in bonsai, the easiest way is to purchase a plant that has already been formed, for example from a ficus or citrus tree. It will help you master all the care techniques from regular watering to pruning and adjusting the shape of the trunk and branches. The accumulated experience will allow you to move on to more complex tasks.

There are several ways to grow bonsai at home:

• through sowing the seeds of the crop you like and the subsequent “education” of the seedling;
• using a rooted cutting;
• forming a seedling from a nursery or wild nature;
• transferring an already adult cultivated or wild specimen into a pot and correcting it.

The fastest of the listed methods is the formation of a crown and root system of one- or two-year-old seedling. Such a plant already has developed roots, while its above-ground part gives room for imagination and can be modified according to the gardener’s plans.

Enthusiasts interested in how to grow bonsai from seeds should know that this path is the longest, but also rewarding. Here, a person has control over the plant literally from the moment the seed is pecked, and changing the shape of the shoots and roots is easier because of their flexibility.

It is not necessary to choose an exotic type of tree or shrub. The main thing is that the plant has small leaves and small annual growth, otherwise it will be much more difficult to “tame” the future bonsai tree.

Choosing the right tree for bonsai

What types of plants are suitable for bonsai, tree in Japanese style? To quickly get an attractive tree, you can pay attention to:

The choice of trees suitable for bonsai is incredibly large, and many of them are indigenous to Russia and are found in gardens, parks, city squares and forests. Magnificent compositions are obtained from serviceberry, hawthorn, acacia and birch, elderberry and linden, euonymus and oak.

Before growing a bonsai, based on the type of plant, its future height and style are determined.

How to grow bonsai from seeds?

Seeds of trees and shrubs suitable for bonsai are divided into two types. Some crops are immediately ready for germination, but the evolutionary “program” of many species includes a period of hibernation, when the sprout waits out the cold season. At home, stratification will help imitate winter.

Tree seeds for Japanese bonsai are placed in damp sand or sphagnum moss for 3–5 months, after which the container is placed in the refrigerator. At a slightly positive temperature in a humid environment, the seed prepares for growth. When it is transferred to warmth, the sprout quickly awakens. For evergreen species and plants with seeds that have a particularly durable shell, heat or temperature contrast is used to awaken.

Sowing of seeds is carried out from spring to early autumn. Seedlings obtained in the second half of summer already need lighting, which is simply irreplaceable in autumn and winter.

For germination and the first months of life of seedlings, use a light sand-peat substrate or soaked and absorbed moisture peat tablets. Until a sprout appears on the surface, the container should be kept in the dark under the film. The air temperature is selected depending on the bonsai tree being grown.

To avoid the formation of condensation and rot, the greenhouse is ventilated. When seedlings appear, a small amount of fresh air is provided inside and the seedlings are transferred to light. As necessary, seedlings are watered and fertilized with complex compounds. When the plant reaches a height of 10–12 cm, it is replanted.

At this stage, the main root is shortened by a third to slow down the vertical growth of the tree. They immediately begin to form the future trunk, for which they use copper wire.

Choosing a pot and soil for bonsai

It is not for nothing that the bonsai tree is called tray-grown. To limit the pet’s growth, it is planted in a deliberately small and shallow container, while simultaneously forming and cutting off part of the root system.

When choosing a bonsai pot, you need to take into account that over the years the tree becomes heavy and, especially with an irregular, inclined or cascading shape, may lose stability. Therefore, for bonsai, ranging in size from a few centimeters to 9 meters, massive, often ceramic, pots, bowls or containers of various shapes and styles are traditionally made.

There should be a drainage hole at the bottom of the container and more than one. They are used not only to drain water, but also to secure the plant.

Treating the bonsai pot with a hot solution of potassium permanganate or scalding with boiling water will help protect the plant and protect it from fungal infection of the root system.

Bonsai soil is not only designed to provide the plant with nutrition and retain moisture, it should help the roots to gain a foothold in the relatively small volume of the pot. Therefore for miniature copies real oaks, lindens, lemons, maples and other trees use a special substrate.

In Japan, for many centuries, such a mixture based on certain types of clay is called akadama. For greater nutritional value and looseness, fertile soil and sand are added to the granular substance:

1. For deciduous bonsai trees, a substrate containing 7 parts of turf soil and 3 parts of coarse washed sand is recommended.
2. Flowering crops are grown on a mixture of 7 parts turf soil, three parts sand and 1 part highly nutritious humus.
3. Conifers, the most popular among bonsai lovers, need particularly loose soil, for which take 3 parts turf soil and 2 parts washed sand.

Before filling the pot, the bonsai soil is sorted out, removing foreign matter that could damage the roots, sifted and sterilized. A drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the container to drain excess moisture.

Caring for a bonsai tree at home

It is not enough to purchase a miniature tree, get a young seedling, or root a cutting of the species you like. It is important to know how to care for a bonsai tree.

By constantly limiting growth, shaping the crown and growing a bonsai in a small pot, a person completely changes the life of a tree or shrub. Therefore, caring for such a crop is very different from caring for other indoor plants.

The main task of the gardener is to organize watering of the bonsai, which is not easy to cope with with a small volume of soil and a shallow pot filled with roots.

Previously, gardeners only had at their disposal a specially shaped watering can or the ability to immerse a bonsai pot in a bowl of water to wet the soil from below. Today, plant irrigation or drip irrigation, which allows you to moisten the soil under the bonsai in doses and without the risk of erosion.

For irrigation, use only soft, melted or settled water. During the growing season, plants need more moisture; with the onset of autumn and the approach of the dormant period, watering is reduced and carried out less frequently, focusing on the condition of the substrate.

Fertilizing is carried out at intervals of 2–3 weeks, using their own mixtures for different crops and seasons. For Japanese trees For bonsai, there are mineral fertilizers based on algae.

You can’t leave plants without food, but it’s equally important not to overfeed your bonsai. Therefore, when caring for bonsai trees at home, fertilizing is done very carefully:

• in the spring, at maximum growth intensity, including twice as much potassium and phosphorus in the fertilizer;
• in summer the proportions remain the same, but the concentration is halved;
• closer to autumn, especially for deciduous crops, the content of potassium and phosphorus is doubled, and nitrogen, on the contrary, is reduced.
• Flowering and fruit-bearing trees and shrubs need more potassium, which is used for the formation of buds and ovaries.

With the arrival of winter, nothing changes for exotic evergreens, but coniferous and deciduous trees must prepare for winter. How to care for a bonsai tree in winter? If the climate allows, they are left outside or brought onto unheated terraces. The root system in a small bonsai pot may be the first to suffer, so it is additionally covered and the soil is dried a little. With the onset of spring, the plant awakens and again needs watering, fertilizing and the formation of the crown and roots, which is mandatory for bonsai.

How to grow bonsai - video

Video about the bonsai exhibition

There are only two ways to create a bonsai. You can either choose a formed tree in the store and then only take care of it. Or start creating bonsai yourself. For this purpose they are used indoor plant or specially grown seedlings.

For bonsai, you need to choose healthy plants that have a strong root system and a well-formed branch line. Work on creating bonsai begins at the age of 2-3 years in the spring after bud formation.

Decide on the style you want to create. It is also necessary to clearly understand how the branches will grow after pruning. Remember that shoots located on the upper buds grow faster. The plant grows more actively in height than in width. Even on the lateral branches, the buds located at the ends of the shoots develop more actively.

This happens because more light falls on the outer buds and leaves, hence the increased development of the upper buds. The general growth trend of the plant also goes towards the light source.

The technique of creating bonsai can be divided into several stages:

1. The first thing to do is remove all dry branches. The lower branches should also be removed. Leave the main three. Ideally, their vertices should form an equilateral triangle. Next, trim the branches located between the main ones.

2. To create an inclined bonsai, you need wire. It should be soft, because you will shape it with your hands, but at the same time elastic enough to hold the branches and trunk.

3. Next, free the upper roots from the ground. After this, you need to tilt the barrel to the required angle. Fix the wire in the ground on the side of the slope. If you want to create a bonsai in a cascading style, and not just make a slope, then you need to bend the trunk strongly. Hold the tree trunk gently but firmly. Wrap the wire tightly around it, being careful not to injure the bark. Apply the turns so that the bent trunk does not come out between them, but not more often. The wire should reach the base of the main branches. Please note that it must support them in their normal position. Otherwise, the entire crown will hang, resembling a broom.

4. When wrapping branches, after each turn you need to straighten thin shoots that can break. Of course, additional branches of wire will be needed to create the desired frame. You can simply bend the sharp ends of the wire down. Or put pieces of eraser on them. This will prevent damage to the plant and help you avoid scratching your hands.

Choose the length of the wire so that it is no less than 1.5 times the area to be wrapped. It is desirable that the angle between the direction of the winding and the direction of growth of the shoot (trunk) be 45 degrees. However, this bonsai technique has exceptions. For plants with thin bark, fragile shoots or those with thorns, they do not use wire wrapping, but simply apply it to the trunk and tie it with woolen thread or soft insulated wire.

5. The grown bonsai plant must remain in such a frame in a given position for at least 1.5-2 years. This period is necessary in order to be sure that the barrel will not return to its original position. You need to keep the wire on the trunk for the longest time. It can be removed from the branches after 6-8 months. For thin branches, braided wire is required. The wire that is used for tying cords of household appliances is well suited.

If you decide to create a bonsai with protruding roots, then you will also have to use wire for this.

6. The plant should be transplanted from a pot into a container no earlier than it has acquired the required shape. Before transplantation, the following preparations must be made. Cover the drainage holes with plain clay shards (bulge facing up). Cover the bottom with a layer of moss or chopped fern roots. Next, add some soil mixture.

7. Inspect the roots. Damaged ones need to be cut off. How to distinguish them from healthy ones? Very simple. Healthy ones have a light cut. Root pruning involves not only removing damaged ones, but also forming the root system. After this operation, the roots should be evenly distributed in all directions. For plants with a weakly defined central root and a fibrous root system, simply trim the roots evenly, thinning if necessary. A special case is a root system with a long central root and weak lateral shoots. The image technique is like this. Remove the lower part of the root. We form the remaining part using wire or wire staples. Having fixed the root at the edge of the bowl, we bend it in a horizontal plane towards the center of the bowl.

Carefully place the plant into the container. Fill in the soil mixture, first straightening the roots. For plants that do not hold firmly, you need to fix the trunk by placing heavy pebbles.

Watering for the first time after transplanting should be very careful. After all, part of the roots of the plant was removed, which may cause rotting due to waterlogging. Very often the soil in the bowl becomes compacted and you have to fill it up. Once the soil has been sufficiently compacted and the tree has taken root, the supporting stones can be removed.