Its advantages include the possibility of saving on roofing material and scaffolding, ease and speed of construction, low weight.
Disadvantages: not very attractive appearance and lack of an attic or its small size.
- Gable- much more popular than a single-pitched one.
Its obvious advantages are its relatively light weight (compared, for example, with a four-hipped roof), a fairly large attic space, the possibility of arranging an attic in the under-roof space, as well as an attractive, harmonious appearance. This type of roof is heated sun rays at both sides.
The roof does not have any particular disadvantages. We can only point out its relatively heavy weight and greater consumption of building materials than during the construction of a pitched roof.
A gable roof requires a ridge (a single-pitch roof does not) and gutters to drain rainwater.
- Hip roof
This type of roofing is not very popular, since its construction is quite complicated and it takes four pitched roof DIY requires certain skills.
The obvious advantages of this type of roofing include its aesthetic appearance and large attic space. The possibility of four-way heating makes the attic very warm.
Among the disadvantages of this type are its heavy weight and, as already mentioned, the complexity of construction work.
- Combined roofing
An ideal choice for a multi-level building or a structure that is not entirely rectangular in shape. It looks quite original, and also fits harmoniously into almost any area.
The roof combined type it is much easier to construct, since it can be built in separate sections: at the first stage of work, cover the terrace located on the second floor under one slope; then build a gable roof over the bedrooms; at the next stage, cover the protruding area of the kitchen on the ground floor, etc.
On the picture different types roofs: 1 – single-pitched; 2 – gable; 3 – broken or attic; 4 – hip (hatched); 5 – tent; 6 – multi-pincer.
There is also a hip roof, which consists of four identical slopes in the shape of isosceles triangles; roof Sudeikin and others.
With all the variety of types of roofs, their construction is based on several basic principles. Having caught them, you can build even the most complex roof yourself.
The entire construction process is divided into several main stages. So, let's find out how to build a roof with your own hands.
Mounting the Mauerlat
The foundation that takes over main part load, - Mauerlat. The entire roof is built on it. Beams with a cross section of 15x15 cm are used. They are installed parallel to the roof ridge.
For the strength of the roof and resistance to adverse weather conditions, the Mauerlat beams should be securely fastened, and care must be taken about this already when laying the walls.
For this purpose, a strong thick rope is laid between the masonry blocks (bricks) at a distance of 1 meter, starting from the fourth floor. It's called wire rod.
The middle part of the wire must be secured in brickwork, and leave the ends hanging. Their length should be sufficient for subsequent tying of the timber. If you plan to plaster, then the outer end of the wire will need to be mounted in the solution.
Photo: fastening the Mauerlat with twisted wire
The Mauerlat must retreat from the edge of the wall by at least 10 cm. To protect the beams from rotting, layers of roofing felt must be laid under them.
Frame installation
To ensure sufficient strength of the roof, it is necessary to take care of the frame. The frame of the house is the rafters attached to the mauerlat.
It should be taken into account that if the length of the beams is more than 4.5 cm, it will be necessary to additionally install purlins. Optimal size beams are considered to have a section of 7x15 cm.
The rafters are attached to the mauerlat using a special cutout, fixed with 20-centimeter nails. They are hammered like this:
- the first is driven diagonally through the rafter into the mauelat;
- the second is nailed in a similar way from the reverse side;
- the third nail is driven perpendicularly from above.
Thanks to this technology, the rafter is firmly attached and does not move.
The upper part of the overlapping beams is attracted to each other so that the edge of one beam overlaps the end of the other (parallel). They are fastened using nails or bolts.
Roof reinforcement
To reduce the impact of the expansion force on the Mauerlat and increase the strength of the roof, the rafter legs must be fastened together using beams whose cross-section is 5x15 cm.
This design detail is called a “crossbar”.
So, the size of the crossbar and the distance between the rafter beams that need to be connected correspond to each other. Fastening should be done using nails.
It is also necessary to take care of attaching a filly to each rafter leg, which is a board with a cross-section of 50x100 cm. It is secured with metal brackets and screws to one side of the rafter leg.
Its length is calculated in the following way: add 50 cm to the length of the overhang.
To avoid difficulties, you need to think about preparing the filly in advance. To do this, a cutout is made on the board, the width of which is 15 cm, with which it is attached to the Mauerlat.
Particular attention must be paid to ensuring that the boards and rafters fit together exactly. It is better to complete all this work before the construction of the rafter system begins, so that then you can simply assemble the entire structure.
On at this stage You also need to choose the angle of inclination of the roof. To make the right choice, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the area. For example, in the presence of heavy rainfall and a fairly cold climate, an inclination angle of 40 to 45 degrees is considered ideal.
Snow does not accumulate on such a roof, which avoids increasing pressure on the floors. The distance between the rafter legs should be 1 meter.
In hot and dry climates, the minimum tilt angle is 3 degrees.
In areas with frequent strong winds, the optimal tilt angle is considered to be 20 degrees.
For an accurate calculation, you should use the rules used by professionals.
Builders measure this value using a special tool - an inclinometer. Before starting measurements, you need to calculate the required angle.
For this, a special formula is used: the angle of inclination is equal to the height of the ridge divided by the figure obtained by dividing the length of the roof by two.
Lathing
To cover the roof you will need to make a sheathing. When choosing tiles as roofing material the sheathing must be continuous.
The photo shows the structural elements of the roof: 1. roof roof; 2. border; 3. ventilation hatch; 4. skate; 5. rafters (rafter leg); 6. auxiliary elements; 7. counter beam (counter beam); 8. roof sheathing; 9. protective element security; 10. eaves gutter; 11. frieze (border) of the wall; 12. valley or valley; 13. drainage a drain pipe; 14. snow fence; 15. vents for steam removal; 16. support bridge; 17. anchor support plate; 18. strapping element; 19. lightning rod; 20. connections technical equipment from premises; 21. air duct; 22. exit to the roof; 23. recumbent dormer (attic) window; 24. standing dormer window; 25. pipe (stove chimney); 26. sloping roof; 27. attic floor; 28. dividing wall of the attic space; 29. thermal insulation.
The work requires solid wooden boards, the thickness of which is approximately 25 cm. Particular attention should be paid to the absence of cracks and chips on them. The length of the boards should be equal to two spans between the rafters, i.e., 2 meters.
In this case, the joints will be located only on the supports. The distance between them should be no more than 5 mm. The boards used to form the ridge should be placed at the closest possible distance from one another. Fastening is carried out using nails 20 cm long.
The choice of lathing option depends on the type of roofing material.
If it is intended to create rolled soft roofs, then the sheathing flooring must be intact (solid). If you have a slate or metal roof, a discharged sheathing is suitable.
If necessary, you can make the flooring double. In this case, the first layer must be laid in the standard order - parallel to the ridge, and the second - along the descent, perpendicular.
Ventilation
Sheathing is not enough to cover the roof. You need to think about its integrity during operation.
To ventilate the tiles, you need to leave gaps in the sheathing, two or three ventilation ducts on each side. The channels should start at the bottom of the overhang and end as high as possible. The width is approximately 5 cm. An outlet for the hood is installed at the top to remove air.
Installation of droppers and lining layer
To protect the roofing from the harmful effects of condensation, it is necessary to lay a lining layer on the sheathing. Its installation is carried out only along the edges, where there is a high probability of water seepage: on internal valleys, near pipes, towards the ridge.
The width of the underlay layer should be approximately 40 cm. Nail the carpet using screws or nails at a distance of about 25-30 cm.
If necessary, you can lay another layer; it should be located on top of the one already nailed. You can glue the overlap using bitumen glue.
Another stage of work before covering the roof should be the installation of drip lines. They are metal plates to protect the cornice from moisture.
The planks are nailed with nails at a distance of 10 cm, and the overlap is 5 cm. In a similar way, drips are secured to the ridge.
Flexible tiles are attached to the plates, which improve both the function of the drip and its appearance. Since the plates are self-adhesive, the protective layer must first be removed from them and only then attached to the cornice. For greater reliability, it is recommended to additionally nail them with nails.
Installation of roofing material
The choice of roofing material depends on the type of roof. Each option implies its own rules and installation conditions.
Flexible bitumen shingles
To make it easier to overlap and distribute the tiles evenly, the process should start from the middle of the eaves. The shingles are removed protective film and glue it to the base.
Then they are nailed along the edges. The best option is galvanized nails with fairly wide heads. The joints of the shingles should be covered with tabs.
If the design assumes the presence of pipes, then special passage elements are attached along the perimeter of the shingle cutout. The tiles should be glued overlapping where the ridge is.
If you have a brick chimney that gets hot, it would be better to place a triangular shaped block at the corner of the chimney and the roof. At a distance of approximately 20 cm from the pipe, a lining carpet is laid, and a special connector is put on the pipe. The cracks should be sealed with sealant.
Metal tiles
A loose sheathing should be laid under the metal tiles. The amount of material can be calculated by adding the length of the slope from the ridge to the eaves, the vertical overlap of the sheets and the eaves overhang.
The first of the sheets is laid and aligned along the end and cornice, the second should be laid on top, and the third on the side. Above the second sheet is the fourth.
The entire resulting structure must be leveled and attached to the sheathing using self-tapping screws. In accordance with this diagram, the entire roof is assembled.
The outer corners and strips of the ridge must be overlapped and secured with self-tapping screws. Close the ridge with caps at the ends.
Start covering the metal tiles from the bottom, in the top direction, from left to right. The tiles are pre-laid out into small (5 pieces) stacks. They are placed on the slopes.
In this case, the load exerted on the rafters is distributed evenly. The tiles are attached to the rafters using galvanized screws. Each of the sheets has special holes, with the help of which you need to attach the sheets to each other.
Cornice filing
This work is carried out at the final stage. The walls should already be insulated, since the frame box should fit closely to them. Otherwise, it will be necessary to either break the sheathing or leave a section of the wall uninsulated.
It is preferable to make the lining from wood. This will eliminate the need for additional ventilation. The hem is a kind of box attached to the extension of the rafters and the fillet.
The photo shows the design of the eaves overhang
Its frame is made up of two boards, one of which goes from the end of the overhang towards the wall, while the second goes down from the rafters. The boards are connected at right angles. Self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws are used to secure the connection points.
Metal plates are also used. It is imperative to leave small gaps between the boards. The corners of the box are cut at a certain angle, and they are secured using metal brackets and self-tapping screws.
Then the lower part of the frame is covered with boards along its entire length. Because they are exposed environment, they must be secured very carefully, especially at the edges. It is also necessary to pay attention to the fact that the joints of the rows of adjacent beams do not coincide. The corners need to be filed at 45 degrees.
Roof insulation
Insulation is no less important than the construction of the roof itself.
There are several options for insulation: from above and from inside the sheathing.
If the attic space will not be used as a living area, then it is possible to carry out internal insulation. It will also allow you to hide the free space between the rafters.
The first step is to cover the entire perimeter of the roof with a waterproofing film. Since the rafters are located on top of the sheathing, it is impossible to stretch the film over the sheet.
It is necessary to ensure that the film covers all parts of the structure. Between the rafters and the sheathing, in the corners, nailed on top of the film wooden slats. Then mineral wool must be nailed to the sheathing between the rafters. The slabs of this insulation must be laid end to end.
The next layer is a vapor barrier film. Its lower edge needs to be attached to the rafters. The joints of two films (waterproofing and vapor barrier) must be placed on top of each other and tightly secured with construction tape.
If the attic space is planned to be used as a living space, then care should be taken to ensure that the roof is warmer.
In this case, the film and insulation must be laid on top truss structures and lathing. The use of polyurethane foam boards should be avoided as this material does not fit tightly together.
The optimal choice as a single layer is mineral wool. It is also necessary to use a waterproofing film. The principle of insulation work is similar to that described.
It is more reliable to use mineral wool as one of the layers and be sure to use a waterproofing film. In fact, the principle of insulation work is not too different.
So, let's build a roof with our own hands
To build a house roof with your own hands, you need to follow the following steps:
- Fastening the Mauerlat;
- Installation of rafters;
- Lathing;
- Installation of droppers, lining layer;
- Installation of roofing material;
- Cornice filing;
- Roof insulation.
We invite you to watch a video about the roof:
Arranging a roof with your own hands is a difficult task, but quite feasible for those who have at least a little experience in construction. In order for the work to go smoothly, it is necessary to carefully prepare, study the roof installation technology, the sequence of operations and methods of fastening individual structural elements. How to build the roof of a house with your own hands will be discussed in this article.
Types of roofs
The most common types of roofs include the following:
- Single-pitch;
- Gable;
- Hip hipped;
- Broken;
- Combined.
Each design has a number of features, so it’s worth considering them in a little more detail:
- Shed roof. A roof with a single slope differs primarily in cost - installation requires a minimum set of materials. In addition, the installation process will be quite simple and fast. True, the price to pay for these advantages ends up being quite significant: firstly, the design is not very attractive visually, and secondly, there will be too little free space under the roof for arranging an attic or attic.
- Gable roof. This roof design option is the most popular due to its ease of installation and the ability to equip a full-fledged room in the under-roof space. A roof with two slopes is a little more complicated and more expensive than a single-slope version, but simpler and cheaper in comparison with a four-slope structure. A key feature of gable roofs is the presence of triangular-shaped gables, which are located at the ends of the building. You should read more about how to make a triangular roof in the corresponding article.
- Hip roof. Installing such a roof will require extensive preparation and significant costs. The design of a hipped roof includes many elements, so there will be a lot of work. An attic of this design cannot be equipped with windows due to the missing pediments - but attic and dormer windows are required, because they will provide lighting for the room and evacuation if necessary.
- Roof with broken slopes. As a rule, this type of roof is installed if there is a desire to make a full-fledged attic. The design of the roof in this case involves installing its lower part with a greater slope compared to the upper section, due to which the ceiling of the room is raised and the usable area is increased.
- Combined roof. As the name suggests, combined roof may include features of several or all structures. This type of roofing has not gained particular popularity, but in some situations only a combination of different design features allows you to achieve the desired result.
The choice of roof type is always individual, so you need to build on your own wishes and capabilities.
Calculation of the roof of a house
Before making the roof of the house, it is necessary to perform calculations of all structural elements, design the roof of the house. The best option would be to fully calculate each indicator, but in practice this is rarely required.
The easiest way would be to take standard cross-sectional values for roof elements, especially if we are talking about a typical building:
- Mauerlat – 150x150 mm;
- Racks – 100x150 or 150x150 mm (the exact value depends on the cross-section of the rafters);
- Struts – 100x150 or 50x150 (determined individually depending on how convenient it will be to connect the struts to the rafters);
- Tights – 50x150 mm;
- Purlins – 200x200 mm;
- Overlays – from 32 to 50 mm.
Accurate calculation of height and cross-section is performed exclusively for rafter legs taking into account the following parameters:
- Material used for roofing;
- The level of atmospheric precipitation in the region (usually values obtained in the region are taken for calculation) winter time);
- Rafter pitch;
- Flight.
In principle, calculating the roof of a house with your own hands cannot be done very accurately, down to approximate values - but in this case you need to add at least a small margin of safety to the results. To completely simplify the calculation process, you can use an online calculator or special tables of standard values.
If we make the roof of a house with our own hands, we often have to install insulating material as well. In this case, the height of the rafter legs will depend on the thickness of the insulation. The installation of the thermal insulation layer must be carried out in such a way that the material is located below the load-bearing beams. When using mineral wool as insulation, it is worth considering that it requires a small gap through which the structure will be ventilated. This gap can simply be left if the rafters are high enough, or you can install a counter-lattice.
How to build a roof with your own hands
General instructions for building a roof with your own hands look like this:
- Before building a roof, you need to take measurements of the building;
- Next comes the preparation of all materials (including impregnation wooden elements antiseptics and fire retardants) and instruments;
- Work begins with the installation of the Mauerlat;
- Next, install the ridge transom (if necessary);
- Then the frame is attached;
- The structure is fixed and reinforced with racks, struts and tie-downs;
- A waterproofing layer and lathing are attached to the assembled frame;
- Next are necessary work to ensure good ventilation of the under-roof space;
- Then drips are installed;
- The last step is the installation of the material chosen for the roofing.
Mauerlat installation
Before building the roof of a house, it is necessary to create a structure designed to ensure reliable fastening of the roof to the building - and this is the Mauerlat on which the assembled frame is installed. True, when installing a roof on a wooden house, the Mauerlat is not needed - its role will be played by the upper crown of the building. The roof will be attached to the walls using dowels.
The roof is installed in a similar way frame house– this time the upper trim will act as a Mauerlat. The connection of the elements of the building and the roof is carried out by cutting using metal corners, which have holes for self-tapping screws.
It’s a completely different matter to install a roof on a brick or concrete house. In this case, you can install the Mauerlat in several ways, and the choice of a specific method directly depends on the result of the calculations and the experience of the master.
Installation of the Mauerlat is carried out in one of four ways:
- Wire installation. To implement such fastening, you need to lay the wire in the masonry at a distance of four rows to the edge of the structure. The Mauerlat will subsequently be screwed to the walls with this wire. This option is the least reliable, but anyone can do it.
- Mounting with brackets. This method involves laying wooden blocks in masonry four rows from the edge. One part of the bracket is attached directly to the Mauerlat, and the second to a pre-fixed block. This method is also not complicated, but it is highly undesirable to use it in buildings with a large load on the roof.
- Mounting with studs. Studs with a diameter of about 10-12 mm are mounted in the masonry. A mauerlat is temporarily laid on top of them and tapped with a hammer, after which small indentations remain on it in those places where the beam will need to be fixed. These points are drilled through, after which the Mauerlat can be installed on the fasteners and the nuts can be tightened.
- Installation using anchor bolts. This method is characterized by maximum complexity and reliability. Anchor bolts are embedded in concrete along the entire perimeter of the wall. The resulting fastening not only provides high-quality fixation of the roof, but also increases the strength of the edge of the wall made of lightweight concrete.
Instructions for constructing rafters
The load-bearing elements of the roof must be securely attached to the frame, for which several methods are used. If the roof is being installed wooden house with your own hands, then the rafters can be exclusively layered.
It's all about two mutually exclusive rules:
- Rafters wooden houses can only be fixed with a hinge;
- Hanging rafters can only be fixed in a rigid manner.
That is why, when arranging buildings made of wood, only a layered rafter system mounted on hinges can be used. To install such a roof, you will have to purchase special elements (usually called skids), which will ensure independent leveling of the roof when the house shrinks.
A do-it-yourself roof of a one-story house, the walls of which are made of brick or stone, can be arranged according to any scheme, but the greatest efficiency is achieved with rigid fixation of the rafter legs. Installation of the frame system can be performed either with or without a notch.
To create a roof with a notch, you must first cut the rafters so that it fits snugly against the mauerlat. In this case, you will have to remove the cornice using fillies that are attached to the rafter legs with at least a meter of overlap. Fixation of structural elements can be done using any fasteners, but the best option There will be metal corners secured with self-tapping screws.
If the roof is installed without a cut, then fillers will not be required - the necessary overhang of the frame will be achieved by the beams themselves. This option is somewhat simpler to set up, since it does not require precise adjustment of all elements. To ensure that the rafters adhere well to the Mauerlat, stops or separate boards are used. It is better to fasten the elements in the same way as in the previous case.
Fastening and strengthening the frame
The assembled frame must be attached to the building box so that the entire structure is not blown away by gusty winds. For fixation, 4 mm wire is quite suitable, pieces of which are wrapped near the rafter leg at its support point. The free ends of the wire are attached to anchors installed in advance in the wall. In case of wooden houses It is quite possible to use staples - they will be quite enough to securely hold the roof in its place.
To increase the strength of the frame, you need to reduce the span of the rafters using struts and racks. The struts are usually installed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees relative to the horizontal. The walls located underneath them or special elements located in the space between the walls are used as supports for the racks.
The structure can also be strengthened by tightening, which reduces the bursting load. This is especially true when using a hanging rafter system. To assemble the frame, two ties are usually used, mounted using self-tapping screws on both sides relative to the rafter legs.
Lathing, waterproofing and ventilation
On the assembled frame, you must first install the selected waterproofing material, and after that you can attach the sheathing itself. Its design and dimensions of the elements used are selected individually. Before you make a roof into a house with your own hands, you should read a separate article on how to properly install the sheathing.
It is also worth taking care of ventilation, for which you need:
- Provide air passage under the roof through the eaves;
- Free movement of air under the roof;
- Unobstructed air outlet through the ridge part of the roof.
Installation of roof covering and insulation
One of the final stages in assembling the roof is the installation of the roof covering. About the choice suitable material and the algorithm for its installation is worth reading an article on the relevant topic. The last stage is laying the thermal insulation layer. Mineral wool is most often used as roof insulation. The thickness of mineral wool must be selected based on the climatic conditions in the region where construction is taking place.
Conclusion
After a detailed study, installing a roof no longer looks like such an overwhelming task. Before making a pitched roof, you need to be well prepared, stock up on everything you need and plan the work. If you follow a clear algorithm and perform all work with maximum diligence, the result will be high-quality and reliable design, capable of standing for decades and reliably protecting the building from any external influences.
More and more people are striving to realize their secret dream - to get out of multi-storey urban buildings in own house. Acquired suburban area is quickly turning into a construction site. And, in accordance with the natural mentality of most Russian men, work on the construction of a new home is very often carried out on our own. Moreover, many of the amateur craftsmen do not have much experience in this area at all, they learn literally on the go, looking for useful and reliable information in available sources, including on the pages Internet resources dedicated to construction. We hope that our portal will provide them with serious assistance in this matter.
So, after the walls of the house have been raised on a reliable foundation, it is necessary, without delaying this, to move on to creating a roof and laying the roof covering. There can be many options here. And one of the most commonly used is the gable roof structure. It is not as complicated in calculations and installation as some others, that is, even a novice builder should be able to handle it. Therefore, the topic of this publication is building the roof of a private house with your own hands using the example of a gable rafter system with
It should be noted right away that the article does not provide a ready-made “recipe”. The goal is to demonstrate the principles of calculating a gable roof and the sequence of its construction. And a master with the appropriate skills should already adapt the recommendations received to his own specific construction conditions.
General information about the design of gable roofs
The basic design principle of a gable roof is probably clear from its name. The roof of such a roof forms two planes converging along the ridge line and resting on the long walls of the house (along the eaves lines). At the end sides, the roof is limited by vertical gable walls. As a rule, both along the eaves line and along the pediment roof covering several are released outside, outside the building's plan, to form overhangs that protect the walls from direct exposure to precipitation.
Most often, slopes have a symmetrical shape. Sometimes they resort to asymmetry, when the slopes are located at different angles to the horizon and, accordingly, differ in their length. But these are isolated cases, and will not be considered within the scope of this publication.
The height of the roof at the ridge, that is, the steepness of the slopes, can be different - it all depends on the planned use of the attic space, the architectural ideas of the owners, and the type of roofing used.
Gable roofs have proven their high reliability. And the relative simplicity of the design is what makes them so popular among private developers.
The external similarity of gable roofs does not at all mean the uniformity of the design of their rafter systems. It is precisely in this matter that there can be significant differences, depending both on the size of the building and on its design features.
Based on the principle of their structure, gable roof truss systems can be divided into two groups:
- If the rafters rest on the external walls of the building and are connected to each other at the ridge node, then such a system is called hanging.
To give additional rigidity to this structure, the rafter legs of each pair are reinforced with horizontal ties (clasps). Can also be used vertical racks supported on floor beams, or diagonally installed struts.
- In the case where the design of the house requires the presence of a permanent wall inside the building, a layered wall is often used rafter system. The name speaks for itself - the legs “lean” on the racks, which, in turn, rest on a bench laid along the upper end of the capital internal walls. Moreover, this wall can be located either in the center or offset from it. and for large buildings, two internal walls can be used as supports. Several examples of layered systems are shown in the illustration below.
- However, a kind of “hybrid” of both systems is often used. The rafters in these cases, even without the presence of an internal partition, also receive support from the central post in the ridge unit, which, in turn, rests on powerful floor beams or on horizontal ties between the rafter legs.
In any of the systems, especially in cases where the rafter legs are of considerable length, additional elements gain. This is necessary to eliminate the possibility of the beam sagging or even breaking under the influence of loads. And the loads here will be considerable. First of all, this is static, due to the weight of the rafter system itself, sheathing, roofing and its insulation, if provided for by the project. Plus, there are large variable loads, among which wind and snow come first. Therefore, they strive to provide for rafter legs required amount support points to prevent possible deformation.
Some of their reinforcement elements are shown in the design diagrams of the rafter system:
The illustration above shows an example of a layered rafter system:
1 - Mauerlat. Usually this is a beam rigidly fixed at the upper end external walls building. It serves as a support and basis for securing the lower part of the rafter legs.
2 - Lying down. Beam fixed to internal partition buildings.
3 - Stand (another name is headstock). Vertical support running from the bed to the ridge girder.
4 - Ridge run. A beam or board connecting the central posts and serving as the basis for securing the upper ends of the rafter legs.
5 - Rafter legs.
6 – Struts. These are additional reinforcement elements with which you can reduce the free span of the rafter leg, that is, create additional support points for it.
7 - Lathing, which must match the selected roofing.
Prices for fastenings for rafters
fastenings for rafters
In systems hanging type reinforcement is carried out by installing horizontal ties (pos. 7), which rigidly connect the opposite rafter legs, and thereby reduce the bursting load acting on the walls of the building. There may be several such delays. For example, one is installed at the bottom, closer to the level of the Mauerlat or even almost flush with it. And the second is closer to the ridge unit (it is often also called a crossbar).
If the rafters are long, it may be necessary to use vertical posts (item 3) or diagonal struts (item 6), and often both of these elements in combination. They can be supported by floor beams (item 9), as shown in the illustration.
It should be correctly understood that the diagrams shown are not dogma at all. There are other designs of rafter systems. For example, it is often used to fasten the lower part of the rafter legs not to the Mauerlat, but to the floor beams placed outside the walls of the house. Thus, the necessary
In the roofs of large houses, more can be used. complex circuits. For example, the rafters are connected by additional longitudinal girders, which, in turn, rest on vertical posts or struts. But it is hardly wise to take on the creation of such complex systems without having well-established experience in this area. Therefore, we will limit ourselves to considering the construction of gable roofs that are quite simple in design.
Carrying out calculations of gable roof parameters
The construction of a rafter system and the arrangement of a roof based on it should always begin with the necessary calculations. What tasks are set in this case?
- First of all, it is necessary to understand the relationship between the height of the ridge and the steepness of the roof slopes.
- After this, it will be possible to accurately calculate the length of the rafter legs, both “net” and full, that is, taking into account the planned eaves overhangs.
- The length of the rafters and the expected pitch from the installation will make it possible to determine the cross-section of the material suitable for their manufacture, taking into account the expected loads on the roof. Or, conversely, based on the available material, select the optimal step and place additional support points - by installing the reinforcement elements mentioned above.
The listed parameters will allow you to draw up a diagram and drawing of the rafter system as accurately as possible, and correctly position all its elements. Using the existing diagram it will be much easier to calculate how much and what material will be needed for installation.
- You will need to find out the total area of the roof slopes. This is necessary to purchase roofing material, hydro- and vapor barrier membranes, and insulation if thermal insulation of the roof is planned. In addition, the area parameter is also important for determining the amount of material for arranging the sheathing for the selected roofing covering.
To make it clearer when explaining the calculation procedure, the main quantities are shown schematically in the illustration below:
D- the width of the house (the size of its gable wall);
VC- the height of the roof at the ridge above the plane of the mauerlat or floor beams, depending on what the lower ends of the rafter legs will be attached to;
A- the angle of steepness of the roof slopes;
WITH- working length of the rafter leg, from the ridge to the mauerlat;
ΔС- lengthening the rafter leg to form the planned eaves overhang;
Sh- step of installation of rafter legs.
Let's begin by considering the issues listed above in order.
The ratio of the steepness of the slopes and the height of the roof ridge
These two quantities are closely interrelated. AND Totheir calculation You can approach it from different angles, taking one or another criterion as the initial one.
- For example, the owners see their house with a high roof, somewhat reminiscent of the Gothic style of architecture. It is clear that with this approach the height of the roof at the ridge increases sharply and, accordingly, the steepness of the slopes. However, one should not forget that such roofs experience maximum wind loads due to their pronounced “windage”. But the snow will practically not linger on such slopes. So it’s worth initially taking these two factors into account. Perhaps, for an area sheltered from the winds, but with a predominance of snowy winters, this option will generally be the most acceptable.
Steep slopes and a high ridge are pronounced - snow does not stay on such a roof at all, but the impact of the wind becomes maximum But let’s not forget that the longer the rafter legs, the more difficult the system itself will be to install, which will require a lot of reinforcing parts.
- Another consideration for making the roof higher is often the desire to have a functional attic space, even to the point of equipping it as a full-fledged living room.
For an attic room, a broken rafter system is certainly preferable. But if a gable roof is still planned, then a lot of space is consumed by the corner zones along the line connecting the rafters with the mauerlat. We have to increase the steepness of the slopes (see above).
True, there may be an acceptable solution here too. For example, the Mauerlat is not located at the ceiling level, as in the “classic” version, but on the side walls, which are deliberately raised above the ceiling to a certain height. Then, with a great steepness of the slopes, and without particularly complicating the design of the system, Magnon can achieve very spacious attic spaces.
Prices for metal tiles
metal tiles
By the way, this is exactly the option that will be considered below, when the story turns to the installation of the rafter system.
- It happens that the owners of the future home, on the contrary, decide to minimum angles roof steepness. This may be caused by materials-saving structures, lack of need for usable space in the attic, or local conditions - for example, a very windy, but not particularly snowy area.
True, with this approach we must not forget that any roofing has certain lower limits for the steepness of the slopes. For example, if you plan to lay piece tiles, then it is necessary to ensure a slope angle of at least 20, and for some models even 30 degrees. So if the plans already include this or that roofing covering, you should correlate its characteristics with the height and steepness of the roof.
So, how is the calculation carried out? Our constant value is the width of the house along the gable wall ( D). Using the well-known trigonometric formula, it is easy to find the height ( VC), starting from the planned steepness of the slopes (angle A).
Sun = 0.5 × L × tg a
It is clear that to calculate a symmetrical gable roof, half the width of the building is taken, that is 0.5 ×D.
One more nuance. When calculating using this ratio, the height difference is taken as the difference in the heights of the ridge point and the plane of the mauerlat. That is, it does not always mean an excess over attic floor- this should be kept in mind.
The mentioned formula is included in the proposed calculator.
Calculator for the ratio of the steepness of the slopes of a gable roof and the height of its ridge
Roof installation on country house- a crucial moment. Mistakes here are fraught with significant material and monetary losses, and living in a house with a bad roof is truly painful. But troubles of this kind can be avoided if you take a responsible approach to design and execution issues. The ability to install a roof yourself, without trusting hired specialists, can help with this.
How to install a roof with your own hands
The installation of a reliable roofing system on a country house is the final step in the cycle of activities for its construction. Then there are only Finishing work to achieve your dreams.
When starting to install a roof on a house, you need to clearly understand its purpose.
- Reliable shelter of the building from the vicissitudes of the weather, preventing leaks.
- Thermal protection interior spaces even at the lowest possible outside air temperature for this area.
- Harmonious design of shape and color scheme finishing coating, corresponding to the exterior of the building frame and the landscape of the site and giving them additional charm.
Photo gallery: roofs made of various materials
Classical hipped roof metal tiles can last up to 50 years 
A properly constructed multi-pitched roof will be reliable and durable, despite the large number of joints and junctions 
Copper roofing materials are an indicator of the taste and wealth of the owner of the house and serve for more than 100 years 
Natural tiles require reinforced sheathing, but last a very long time and look impressive and attractive 
Soft tiles You can cover a roof of any complexity
Is it possible to install a roof yourself?
In order to objectively understand and correctly assess your capabilities, you need to use various sources and learn how to perform the following operations.
- Display the roof structure of the house at the level of at least a preliminary design.
- Calculate the need for materials for the rafter system, roofing pie and finishing coating.
- Determine the installation scheme for the Mauerlat in order to distribute the loads from the roof onto the walls as much as possible and securely fasten the rafter system.
- Choose the optimal angle of inclination of the slopes.
- Calculate the pitch of the rafters.
- Assess the need to install additional metal fastenings roof frame.
- Study the purpose of lathing and counter-lattice and the rules for their installation.
- Clearly understand the order of installation of layers of the roofing pie of an insulated roof.
- Understand the principles of selection and placement of roofing finishes, as well as methods of fastening them.
- Know the nomenclature and purpose of additional roofing elements and the procedure for their installation.
As you can see, this far from complete list suggests a rather serious preliminary preparation on theoretical issues. Next, you need to take care of the tools for doing the work. Its set does not include anything special - these are, as a rule, ordinary manual and electrical devices that are available in the household of almost any owner of a country house.
But most importantly, it is necessary to assess the level of your own skills in performing carpentry and roofing work. Let us note right away that purely theoretical knowledge is clearly not enough here. It is advisable to take part in such events several times in order to see working techniques and ways of performing individual operations, as well as their sequence.
Video: gable roof - how to do it easily and simply
Roof installation stages
Installation of the rafter system begins with the installation of a support device called a Mauerlat.
Mauerlat installation
In private suburban construction Mauerlat is a timber made of coniferous species wood with a section of 150x100 or 150x150 mm. It performs two important functions.
- Uniform distribution of the load from the upper structure of the building to its walls.
- Forming a base for fastening elements of the rafter system.
Thus, the Mauerlat represents the connecting link between the frame of the house and its roofing system. It is laid on load-bearing walls and fastened in various ways:
- tying with wire ties, previously laid in the walls when laying them;
The wire can be walled into the wall when laying it or inserted into specially drilled holes later
- fastening with studs to the armored belt, if provided for by the design of the house;
The studs are inserted and tied to the reinforcement cage before the concrete is poured.
- installation of a Mauerlat with fixation to the wall with staples using wood tabs placed during laying.
If in brick wall lay when laying wooden inserts, you can attach the Mauerlat to them using metal brackets
These are the main methods of attaching the support base to the walls of the house.
Installation of the rafter system
Various materials are used to make the roof frame:
- timber made of coniferous wood with transverse dimensions 150x50 mm. For small house Even material with a cross section of 100x50 mm will be sufficient;
- glued wooden profiles in the form of an I-beam or beam;
- metal profiles such as rectangular pipes or beams with a transverse dimension of up to 150 mm;
- plastic profiles of various sections.
The choice of material depends on its price and availability on the market. It should be noted that wood and metal require additional anti-corrosion (for metal) or antiseptic and fire-resistant (for wood) surface treatment.
The rafter system is mounted in several ways.
- Assembly directly on site. The material is supplied to the roof and there, based on the location, parts are produced and installed. This installation procedure allows you to continuously monitor the quality of the assembly and make the necessary adjustments in a timely manner.
One of the ways to install a rafter system is to assemble it on site
- Assembly below on a specially installed slipway. The first pair is assembled according to the drawing with careful adherence to all dimensions. Subsequent rafter legs are made using the first product as a template. Upon completion of the work, a set of rafter legs is delivered to the installation site and installed there. Trusses assembled at the bottom usually include two rafters and a top tie. This configuration ensures stability of shape and the weight of the products can be lifted manually.
If the trusses are small, they can be assembled completely on the ground
- Installation of a rafter system from ready-made trusses. They are ordered from specialized enterprises according to their own drawings. Delivery and (at the customer's request) installation are carried out by the contractor's staff. To assemble a rafter system in this way, as a rule, lifting equipment is used, but the quality is guaranteed.
If roof trusses are ordered in production, they will be made with perfect precision and high quality
Video: assembling rafters on the ground
Roofing pie device
The roofing pie is formed during the process of roof insulation. The natural question is: why is this necessary? It has been established that up to 25–30% of the heat received from the heating system in the house is lost through an uninsulated roof. A simple calculation shows that the costs incurred for insulating the upper structure will pay off quickly. In addition, an uninsulated roof makes a lot of noise during precipitation, especially if it is made of metal profiles. In addition to its insulation function, the roofing pie also successfully copes with noise absorption.
The insulating device for the roof is formed from several layers, each of which performs a specific function.
The roofing pie of an insulated roof consists of several layers laid in a strictly defined order
Vapor barrier
The purpose of a vapor barrier is to prevent moisture from the air coming from living quarters from entering the under-roof space. The fact is that one of the layers of the roofing pie is insulation, which is a fibrous material. Moisture can accumulate in the capillaries of the insulation mass, which leads to its clumping and loss of basic functional properties.
To prevent this process, diffusion films are used. They have microscopic holes that can only allow moisture to pass in one direction. Therefore, when correct location Regarding the insulation, the film protects it from external moisture, while simultaneously releasing water molecules from the inside and thus drying it out.
The roofing pie begins to form with the installation of a vapor barrier
An effective way to use vapor barrier films for pitched roofs is to place them directly on top of the insulation. This device allows you to use the entire length of the rafters for insulation. But to do this, you need to hermetically connect the individual canvases, for which adhesive tape is used.
The most popular are the three-layer films “Utafol D Standard”, “Utafol D Silver” and “Utafol D Special” made from polypropylene. For ease of installation, a colored stripe is applied along the edges of the film, indicating the amount of overlap during installation. For slopes with a slope of less than 20 o, its value should be 20 cm, for steeper roofs - 10 cm. The flooring is made along the roof, starting from the lower rows.
Vapor barrier films are produced in rolls up to 1.5 m wide and 10 m long.
Insulation
When a person hears the word “roof”, he creates an association with warmth and comfort in the room. This is only possible if the insulation material is correctly selected. The purpose of this layer is not to heat the roof, but to retain the heat generated in the house, so the key to success is its correct choice, which largely depends on the design of the roof. Otherwise General requirements to all types of this material are almost the same.
The decisive factor is the thickness of the insulation. The rules for its determination are given in SNiP 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”. In accordance with this document, it is possible to obtain the value of the thermal resistance of a structure, determined by regional coefficients depending on climatic conditions. Using data on the thermal conductivity of the material (certificate indicator), you can determine the thickness of the insulation in meters.
By type of material, insulation is classified as follows.
- Expanded polystyrene is a foamed plastic produced in slabs. Has low specific gravity and thermal conductivity. It is usually laid in several layers with overlapping joints. Used for thermal insulation flat roofs, its service life is determined by the manufacturers at 50 years.
Expanded polystyrene boards are commonly used to insulate flat roofs
- Polyurethane foam is a gas-filled plastic mass. Most often used for thermal insulation of roofs and attics. With low thermal conductivity and low weight, it has vapor barrier properties and has a long service life.
- Mineral wool. Made from natural natural materials, does not burn, retains heat perfectly. Moisture absorption is low, rodents do not live in it and bacteria and insects do not develop.
Foil insulation made of mineral wool has high thermal insulation properties due to the coating that reflects heat
- Glass wool. This is a type of material made from waste from glass production. This insulation is non-flammable, resistant to getting wet and does not support the life of rodents.
In terms of manufacturability and price indicators, mineral wool is most often used for insulation, various modifications of which are suitable for pitched and flat roofs. The most commonly used materials are produced by Knauf (glass wool boards) and Rockwool (mineral wool), which have long gained popularity among consumers.
Also popular roll insulation"Isover" made in Finland. It was one of the first to appear on the Russian market and still enjoys well-deserved prestige. It is used for both roofs and walls.
Waterproofing
Moisture can enter the insulation layer not only from the interior, but also from the outside. This occurs in cases where there are even minor defects in the laying of the finishing coating, as well as as a result of moisture condensation on it. inner surface. In addition, any vapor barrier protection does not provide a complete guarantee against moisture ingress into the insulation, so it must also be removed.
To protect against these unfavorable phenomena, a layer of waterproofing is laid between the insulation and roofing material. Waterproofing films come in the following types.
Waterproofing films are rolled out perpendicular to the rafters from bottom to top. We remind you of some rules for its installation:
- the amount of overlap when laying should be 15–20 cm; some manufacturers usually indicate the size of the overlap by color marking;
- all connections must be secured with special perforated tape;
- The waterproofing film is fixed to the rafters using a counter-batten up to 50 mm thick, creating a gap for ventilation.
For cold roofs it is better to use a budget option universal or diffusion film. Brands such as “Yutafol D”, “Izospan D”, “Folder D” and others are suitable. You can purchase more expensive products, but the ratio of price, quality and functionality will not be in their favor.
For an insulated roof or attic, you can use universal or diffusion film of the same brands, but with the obligatory installation of a ventilation duct. Superdiffusion can be installed on any roof and with any insulation method. Popular brands are “Folder”, “Tyvek”, “Yutavek”, “Light”, “Delta”, “Vent” and others.
Finishing coatings for roofing
A variety of materials are used to cover roofs. However, the basic requirements for them remain unchanged.
- Tightness, providing complete protection of the interior from moisture and water in all its forms.
- Low noise, protecting the living space from sounds coming from the roof during intense rainfall.
- Durability, allowing the roof to be used for at least 15, and in some cases up to 50 years. Some types of roofs (slate, ceramic tiles, copper) can extend this period to a hundred years or more.
- The total weight of the roofing system must correspond to the load-bearing capacity of the building frame and its foundation.
- The appearance of the roof should harmoniously fit into the exterior of the site and the house.
Metal roofing is quite popular in private housing construction.
- Profiled sheeting. It is made from galvanized sheet metal 0.45–0.7 mm thick using the profiling method, and is coated with a layer of zinc in its commercial form. In some cases, paint or varnish is applied to the surface plastic covering, increasing the service life and appearance of products.
- Metal tiles. It is made from the same material by stamping in a form that imitates natural tiles. Such roofing is always provided with an additional protective layer of resistant paint or plastic.
- Seam roofing. It consists of smooth galvanized sheets connected with a special seam - a fold.
- Coatings made of non-ferrous metals - aluminum and copper. They can be shaped like shingles or come in flat sheets for standing seam roofs.
Photo gallery: types of metal roofing materials
Metal tiles make a beautiful and durable roof for any type of building 
The roof of a house made of corrugated sheets will be reliable, durable and inexpensive 
With the correct installation of the connecting seam, a seam roof lasts for several decades 
Copper tile roofing is difficult to install, but looks very beautiful and lasts more than 100 years
Other roofing materials are also used.
- Asbestos slate - not so long ago it was leading in the list of roofing materials. IN Lately its position was displaced by other types of materials. Today, slate is most often used to cover secondary buildings, although it has fairly high consumer properties.
Traditional asbestos slate is still a popular roofing material
- Ceramic tiles are molded from certain types of clay and fired in ovens. The material is highly durable and easy to install due to its small size. Its only drawback is its heavy weight, which requires a fairly solid foundation. The service life in some cases exceeds 50 years.
Traditional ceramic material allows you to get a beautiful, reliable and durable roof
- Cement-sand and concrete tiles are produced in formats close to ceramic analogues and have similar mechanical and consumer properties. It can be painted in various colors by adding dyes to the solution during the production process. The obvious disadvantage of this material is its heavy weight.
Cement-sand tiles look very beautiful and last a long time, but require a powerful rafter system due to their heavy weight
- Roofing coverings made of composite materials, such as Shinglas tiles or ondulin, are made from cellulose with the addition of fibrous materials. During the production process, they are impregnated with polymer-bitumen compounds, which makes the material resistant to moisture and ultraviolet radiation. The advantage of this finishing coating is its light weight. The service life is determined to be at least 30 years, although confirmation of this fact can be obtained a little later.
- For low-slope and flat roofs, fused roofing made from roll materials is often used. The basis for their manufacture is polymer mesh or glass fiber. For installation, the lower surface of the canvas is heated with a gas-flame burner and glued to the prepared surface. Upper layer covered with granite, basalt or slate chips. The peculiarity is the need for regular inspection and maintenance of the roof to identify and eliminate damage. The service life of such roofs does not exceed 10 years. The main types of roll materials on the Russian market are TechnoNIKOL, Uniflex, Bikrost.
Welded roll materials usually used for flat and low-slope roofs
- Self-leveling roofs - made from molten bitumen or compositions like liquid rubber by direct pouring onto the prepared surface. Distribution over the surface is carried out with special scrapers. The thickness of the layer should not exceed two millimeters. The result is a continuous coating without seams or joints.
Self-leveling roofing is a continuous sealed roofing carpet
Among the purely natural materials for finishing roofing, we can distinguish such as clay slate, straw and reeds, as well as wooden shingles. They are rarely used and are not competitive in the market.
Features of installation of various types and components of roofing
The roof covering must have a number of important characteristics, which were mentioned above:
- tightness;
- sufficient strength;
- UV resistance;
- compliance with climatic conditions.
Flexible roofing device
Flexible tiles fully meet these conditions, while being much cheaper than other materials. Before laying flexible tiles on the sheathing, you need to lay geotextiles to organize high-quality drainage. The use of this coating is possible for buildings of any purpose and for any roof shape.
The dimensions of the tile sheet are 1.0 x 0.33 m; it is made of fiberglass impregnated with polymer-bitumen compositions with the addition of various modifiers and plasticizers. Outside surface covered with a protective layer of various types crumbs, which gives it immunity to ultraviolet radiation.
Video: installation of flexible tiles
Hard roof installation
Rigid roofs can be made from various materials:
- corrugated sheeting;
- metal tiles;
- slate;
- sheet covering in the form of galvanized or non-ferrous metals.
The finishing process may look like this:
- Overhang formation. To do this, fillets (extensions) are stuffed along each rafter leg, a cord is pulled between the extreme ends and the fillies are trimmed along one line.
- Installation of waterproofing. The film is laid at right angles to the rafters in the direction from bottom to top and fixed with counter-lattice bars.
- Installation of sheathing. It is laid from boards 25x100 or 25x150 mm. For profiled materials, the sheathing is made thin. At the same time, at a distance of 400–500 mm from the ridge it is continuous.
For hard coverings, the sheathing is made sparse everywhere except in the area of the ridge and valleys
- Laying the finishing coating. It is produced from any corner of the roof also in the direction from bottom to top. The amount of overlap is calculated in advance; it should not be less than recommended for the type of coating used. First, the first row is covered until the ridge is reached, after which the installation of the second and subsequent rows begins in the same order. The coating materials are fastened in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
- Installation of ridge strips and design of overhangs.
For filing eaves overhangs, it is best to use plastic or metal soffits with perforations for ventilation of the under-roof space
Each coating has its own methods of fastening and corresponding fasteners. Additional roofing elements are installed during installation.
Video: DIY metal profile installation
Cold roof installation
Installing a cold roof on a house is appropriate in areas where temperature differences are small, and heating season short The following operations are performed.
Installation of roofing accessories
Roofing accessories include the following products.
- Snow guards. They are fencing in the form of barriers made of profile metal to retain snow on the roof slopes. Their purpose is to prevent spontaneous melting of snow masses, which can result in injury to people. Snow guards are attached to the finishing roofing on special stands. For metal tiles, these parts have a special shape.
Snow guards prevent spontaneous snow removal from the roof in winter
- Stationary roof ladders. They are attached to the wall of the house (vertical part) and fixed to the ridge (pitched part). Used when inspecting the roof, performing current repairs, as well as for chimney maintenance.
Roof ladders are designed for safe climbing to the roof and moving along it.
- Roofing ridges. Included in the delivery package of the finishing coating, intended for installation at the intersection of roof slopes.
- Roofing walkways, which, like ladders, are necessary for moving along the roof during inspections, repairs and other operations at height.
Roofing walkways ensure safe work at heights
- Roof fencing. They are installed along the perimeter of the slopes and are designed to prevent people from falling when working on the roof. They are used on the roofs of houses of two floors and above.
Installation of gutters on the roof
Gutters are an important part of the roof structure because their function is to collect water from the roof, including rain, melt and condensation. They are installed between water intake funnels.
There are two ways to install gutters.
- Hanging gutters are attached to the top of the cornice paintings on special hooks.
- Wall-mounted ones are installed on brackets attached to the wall.
Work on installing gutters is carried out after completing the design of the overhangs. Regardless of the installation method, gutters work equally successfully on roofs with any slope angle.
Video: installing gutters
Typical mistakes when installing a roof
Inexperienced builders often make mistakes, which can subsequently lead to significant costs.
- Lack of armored belt over walls made of foam concrete blocks. Consequences - as a result of moistening the foam concrete and the influence of concentrated loads from the rafter system, the wall is destroyed at the support points, the roof warps and the sealing of the coating is compromised.
- Ignoring the need to attach the rafter legs to the mauerlat. As a result of wind loads, the roof structure can move or be blown away at extreme magnitudes. The requirements of paragraphs 5.1 and 7.1 of SNiP 02/31/2001 were violated.
- Incorrect or missing ventilation ducts. Ventilation is necessary for rooms with high humidity air - toilets, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. In its absence, the development of fungal and putrefactive formations is possible, contributing to the destruction of the load-bearing structures of the house. In addition, this negatively affects the health of residents.
- Incorrect execution of the places where the rafter legs rest on the mauerlat due to the absence of a support platform in the form of an oblique cut. As a result, uncontrolled displacement of the rafter legs and deformation of the entire rafter system occurs. There is a violation of clauses 5.9 and 6.16 of SNiP II-25–80. The consequences are displacement of the rafter legs and complete destruction of the roof.
- No rafter ties. Their purpose is to create a rigid triangle in roof trusses. If there are no tightenings, the roof moves apart and collapses. Ceiling transfers can be used as these elements.
This list can be continued for a long time. One thing needs to be understood - strict compliance with the requirements of the agreed and approved project is mandatory.
When planning roof installation work, you need to take care of the problems that may arise during its operation.
- Purchase some spare fasteners so that you can replace damaged parts.
- Buy a small can of paint of the appropriate color to repair damage to the protective layer.
- During the first time after installation, inspect the roof surface at least once a month to identify damage. Detected defects must be eliminated immediately, preventing their development. This especially applies to self-leveling and built-up roofs.
In order for the operation of the roof to be long and trouble-free, it needs to be given constant attention, as well as have a small repair kit for timely intervention if necessary.
In principle, there is nothing overly complicated about installing a roof with your own hands. You just need to know the basic rules for performing the work and have a clear understanding of the mechanics of the roofing system. It is important to start correctly, that is, create a preliminary design. After this, you must definitely show it to a design specialist and eliminate all comments. It should also be understood that self-production roofing doesn't mean doing all the work alone.
Many owners of suburban plots prefer to build a house themselves. The final stage of building construction is the construction of the roof. Having certain skills, you can reduce the labor costs of hired workers and do the work yourself. Many people do not know how to make a roof - in such cases it is better to use the help of qualified workers.
Types of roofs being built
First of all, you need to determine the type of roof, prepare the necessary tools and materials. Roofing construction is one of the important stages building a house.
To make a roof, you will need to choose its type wisely. The simplest designs that you can make yourself include gable roofs with straight frames.
Covering the roof with one slope will save material. If you make such a roof frame with your own hands, the labor intensity of the work will be less, and the installation speed, on the contrary, will be higher. But this method has several disadvantages. The first of them is not the most attractive: there is no possibility to equip an attic or attic. In this case, the roof space is too low.
Very often, a gable roof of a private house is installed with your own hands. It is easy to make and allows you to get more space. Compared to four slopes, it has less complexity and weight. Also in this case less material is required. The roof of a house differs significantly from other types. In this case, you need to make triangular gables at the ends of the building.
Before you build your own four-beam roof, you'll have to do some serious preparation. This design has more elements compared to previous roofs. Besides, in the attic there is no way to make full windows, since the design is devoid of pediments. Installing the roof with your own hands in this case involves installing attic windows and skylights. They are designed for lighting and evacuation.
A combined design would be an excellent option. It can combine characteristics of all these types. Another option for an attic is to build a roof with broken slopes. In this case, the lower part of the roof has a greater slope than the upper. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make your home more comfortable.
Materials for work
The modern construction industry offers a huge number of traditional and innovative roofing materials. To understand all their diversity, you need to consider in detail the main types of parameters. However, first it is worth understanding what principles are used when choosing certain roofing materials. The choice of material depends on many factors:
The modern market is full of various roofing materials. They must not only be strong enough. A prerequisite is the ability to withstand various negative atmospheric factors.
Erection of the roof of a private house requires the preparation of tools and materials.
In particular, you will need:
Construction methodology
Let's look at how to make a roof correctly. To determine the configuration and size of the roof, snow and wind load in existing climatic conditions- the smaller the angle, the better design withstands loads. But a small angle (40 degrees or less) does not allow full use of the attic space.
The shape and structure of the roof are designed in accordance with the project plan: the key supports of the roof system must coincide with the lines and points of the supporting structures of the lower floor. Thus, it is necessary to take into account the width of the house, the presence of a longitudinal load-bearing wall. If the attic is not planned to be used as living space, you can build reliable roof with multi-layer rafters. In this case, the rafters are attached to a track that supports posts resting on an internal support wall.
If it is decided that the gable roof will be installed with your own hands, you should carefully read step by step instructions. The functional parameters of the roof also depend on the correct insulation, characteristics and quality of installation of the finishing coating.
Independent Mauerlat device
Before you can reliably build the roof of a house, you need to take care of fastening the mauerlat - the wooden frame of the house, which serves as the boundary of the transition from the stone to the wooden part.
Block it in these ways:
- The fill strengthens the belt around the perimeter and fixes the studs in it. The stud pitch should be from 1 to 1.5 meters.
- Then the studs are fixed in the last rows of the house's masonry.
Cutting and installation of rafters
The rafters are the most difficult part of the job. It is important not only to mount the rafter legs, but also to cut them correctly. If it is skewed, the entire roof will “walk,” which is bad for the house.
Now it is necessary to cut off the upper edge of the board so that the rafter system of two parallel legs can be connected by cutting edges without voids or gaps. To do this, you need to lift the board up, lean it against the mauerlat and raise it to desired angle. In the center, overlapping the floor towards the rafters, you need to draw a line. This will be the cutting line for the board. That is, in the upper part of the rafter we get an inclined cut. All rafters, cut with a pattern, are assembled securely at the top using brackets, ties and bolts.
Roof gable installation
The pediment is a continuation of the wall, limited by the slopes of the roof. If there is a gable roof, then the gables of the house are triangular. When installing a structure, the first parts are first installed, which subsequently serve as a frame for the gables. It is necessary to strictly check the verticality of the structure and ensure that they are of the same height. A mountain ridge is attached to the upper part of the gables, onto which the remaining rafter structures are later mounted.
Usually, gables are sewn up after roofing work, but this can be done at an earlier stage. Installation of boards 50 x 100 or 50 x 150 mm is carried out in a vertical or horizontal direction. The pediment, which can be built with your own hands, is often equipped with windows. It is necessary to provide insulation of gables.
Installation of frame and roofing pie
Continuing the topic, it is worth noting that the next stage will be the installation of the frame and construction roofing pie. Once the system is ready, it is necessary to lay the frame, which will become the basis for other materials of the pie - vapor and waterproofing, as well as for other insulating and roofing materials.
The roof covering can be installed from unedged boards 100x50 mm. In this case, the spacing of the boards depends on the final roofing material. The heavier, the smaller the rack pitch should be. Usually it is 30 cm.
Important: It is advisable to lay a layer of vapor barrier under the frame. It will protect the insulation from evaporation from the house. The boards are already installed on top of the barrier.
Now, perpendicular to the tree, you need to lay the beam in steps equal to the width of the slabs or rolls of insulating material. Insulation is placed between them, carefully in the existing grooves.
Everything is covered with a layer of waterproofing on top and fixed with another perpendicular frame (in this case, horizontal). And the last roofing material is already installed on it.
At the very end of the roof installation in the house, it is necessary to install drainage system. It is made from cut plastic pipes, they are purchased in advance. Now all that remains is to sew up the roof with the selected material.
DIY roof covering
The plank is placed on the rafter system, the pitch of which is calculated based on the characteristics of the roofing material - its size and rigidity, and installation method. If the use of flexible materials is required (tiles, rolled bitumen), it is necessary to make an even frame.
Work on laying roof tiles is carried out in the following order:
Overlap must be reinforced in each wave. Covering the roof with metal tiles, Special attention attention should be paid to the reliability of fastening of the sheets and the accuracy of their connection.
When installing the roof, everything must be done as carefully as possible differently. heat losses will be very significant. Typically, a gable roof is immediately made taking into account the use of various materials. This allows you to build a roof with minimal economic costs. In addition, this approach speeds up and simplifies the installation of thermal insulation and vapor barrier systems. It is recommended to carry out the construction of a gable roof in stages with assistants. Compliance with work technology allows us to build a reliable, durable structure.
