This is a science that requires individual approach to each tree, taking into account the configuration of its branches, degree of fruiting, and age. But, nevertheless, there is general principles trimmings that I want to talk about. So, how to properly prune an apple tree from a very early age?
Why do you even prune a planted tree? Pruning of seedlings is carried out in order to give them an initial shape, from which the correct form will come. And the correct crown helps to obtain best harvest. There are several unwritten rules for successful pruning; I advise you to be very careful and try to correctly recognize the growth of branches so as not to harm the young tree.
Video. Garden tools for proper tree pruning
Proper pruning of apple tree seedlings
When, the branches should be cut into a ring, with the exception of the central conductor. What does it mean? The fact is that around each branch there is a ring influx, the cells of which quickly multiply, healing the wound. If you cut above this growth and leave the stump, it will begin to dry out, exposing the bark. Pruning below the annular influx will lead to long healing of the wound and access to various infectious diseases.
From proper pruning of an apple tree to initial stage The future health of the entire tree depends. I advise you to immediately treat sections of branches whose diameter exceeds 1 cm with garden varnish or oil paint based on drying oil. Sometimes you have to leave stumps of 10-15 cm in order to tie other branches to them for fixation. But next year they will still need to be cut into a ring.
When forming the crown of a young seedling, some branches need to be partially pruned. It is performed on the inner kidney and on the outer kidney. How to properly prune an apple tree to its outer bud? Note that the buds on the branch are located alternately, one towards the center of the trunk, the other outward. So, pruning branches to an external bud means cutting it in such a way that a bud remains on top, directed to the outside world, i.e. out. Accordingly, the cut to the inner bud is diametrically opposite.
In what cases is it necessary to cut to the outer bud? When there is a need to thin out the middle, make it less dense and expand the diameter of the crown. A cut to the inner bud allows you to raise the overgrown lower branches and thicken the crown from the inside if it is weak. Make sure that after the cut there is no shaggy fringe left on the branch, and if this happens, then immediately clean the cut area with a sharp garden knife. The technique of properly pruning an apple tree into a bud is not complicated, but it does require a certain skill. Place the knife on the opposite side of the kidney 2 mm lower and make a cut at an angle of 45° so that it is 2 mm above the kidney.
In order for this to come out smoothly and correctly, hold the branch from below with your left hand, and with your right, after taking aim, make a confident, precise movement in the direction of the cut, as if you were whittling a stick. Remember that the correct cutting of a branch is the key to the health of the entire tree in general.
Methods for forming the crown of apple tree seedlings
The main task of pruning apple trees is to create a balance between old branches and shoots of the current year: there should be approximately the same number of them. Pruning must be done so that the future crown has the correct structure.
There are several ways to form the crown of seedlings. The formed crown can be spindle-shaped, sparsely layered, medium-standard, combined, palmette and other forms. For a novice gardener, it will be easier to form a crown using a sparsely layered method. This is a method in which it is necessary to leave 4-6 skeletal branches at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.
Medium-standard forms are very convenient for formation, in which the lower skeletal branch is located at a height of 80-110 cm. To create this form, all branches of apple tree seedlings located below must be cut out.
Timing for pruning young apple trees
Pruning of young apple trees begins in early spring before the beginning of the growing season in the first year after planting. Spring treatment is very important for the beauty and health of trees, because after it the trees grow more intensively throughout the summer.
There is also summer pruning, but it is usually used to shorten the shoots of the current year. It stimulates the formation of fruit buds, improves the size and color of fruits.
Pruning annual apple trees
Planting for the first time permanent place an annual unbranched apple tree seedling, you just need to remove it at about a height of one meter from the ground. This will allow side shoots to form this year, and then it will be possible to form a crown.
If a young annual apple tree (seedling) is already branched, then it is necessary to remove all its side shoots up to 70 cm from the soil level. Among the shoots that grow higher, remove those that form with the trunk sharp corner. Those shoots that are located at a wide (close to 90°) angle are shortened to the third or fifth bud. If the shoot has a wide angle, then this branch will provide the tree with a strong crown in the future. It is also important that trees with almost horizontal branches begin to bear fruit earlier.
Pruning two-year-old apple trees
A two-year-old apple tree consists of a stem and several shoots extending from it. For such seedlings, it is necessary to leave three to five most developed shoots with wide angles. These will be the main branches of the tree. The remaining shoots need to be removed. The central conductor is formed above a more developed bud, from which a vertical shoot will develop. It should be approximately 4-5 buds higher than all skeletal branches. The remaining shoots are cut so that the lower ones are longer (up to 30 cm), and those higher are shorter. Thus, the main skeleton of the most popular crown of young two-year-old apple trees is formed - strong and round.
Over the next three to five years, it is better not to trim young apple trees or shorten their shoots. Otherwise, there may be delays in their fruiting. But still, a little treatment is sometimes necessary for diseased and broken branches. They need to be removed from the very base. In case of very active growth tree, so that the tiers of branches are not too distant from each other, you can shorten the conductor, but do not forget that it remains the leading one.
To form the crown correct form In addition to pruning, other techniques are used: for example, changing the direction of growth or the inclination of a branch. You can change the angle of branches by installing spacers between the trunk and the branch. You can also use a guy to pull a branch to a peg driven into the ground. And empty areas of the crown can be filled by changing the direction of the branch.
Video. Pruning young trees (before fruiting)
Magic number 3 when pruning young trees
I prune apple trees every year, but I am never in a hurry with spring pruning. First, I always give the apple trees time to recover from winter and blossom, and only after that, in June, when it becomes clear which branches have been particularly damaged, I begin pruning the trees.
For myself, I chose a simple and understandable pruning method, which is recommended by gardener A. M. Gavrilovsky from Barnaul. With this method, you just need to remember the key (as the author writes - “magic”) number - three.
When I plant an apple tree seedling in a permanent place for the first time - usually in the spring - I immediately trim it so that only 3 growth buds remain on it. Over the summer, three identical branches grow from them, that is, a kind of apple tree bush is obtained.
Next spring I cut each branch again in the same way. I leave three growth buds, and mercilessly remove all the others. By the autumn of the second year, such an apple tree is already a bush of nine branches. In the third year, I cut all nine branches again into three buds, and this is where the crown-forming pruning ends. The result is an apple bush of identical 27 branches.
After that, during each spring pruning, I leave one growth bud on each of the 27 branches, and try to remove all the rest. Of course, I leave the fruit buds, and they develop perfectly. At the same time, the apple tree begins to bear fruit earlier and quite abundantly.
In addition to this, throughout the summer I regularly pinch off all emerging lateral and other branches with growth buds. The crown, therefore, does not thicken, receives a lot of light and heat, and the tree grows well.
Of course, it doesn’t always work out so smoothly that exactly 27 identical branches form and remain in the crown. Something will freeze; it happens that hares or mice do harm; something will break, etc. But all the same, if you try to use the “magic” number three during formative pruning, then the crown turns out to be a more or less symmetrical and even bush no higher than 3-3.5 m. If it is partially damaged by frost, it is easily restored, and the apple tree continues to bear fruit.
Currently, after two very cold winters in a row, only two of my fruit-bearing apple trees have survived. These are the varieties Gornoaltayskaya and the Gardener's Gift. But I don't despair. All my apple trees are rooted. I have been growing seedlings myself for many years, and I have plenty of young seedlings, so I hope to restore my mini-apple orchard without much effort and expense.
After all, the apple tree not only produces delicious apples, but is also a real decoration of the site all summer long! This tree is very beautiful both at the time of flowering and at the time of fruiting, so I’m not going to give up apple trees completely, despite the vagaries of the weather!
When is the best time to prune apple trees?
Traditionally, it is believed that it is best to prune during the transition period from a state of winter dormancy to spring awakening. Winter, or rather, early spring pruning is indeed usually safer for plants. During this period, large perennial branches can also be pruned in the case of rejuvenating pruning.
As for small shoots (from last year and the year before), in limited quantities and if the tree is in good condition, pruning can be done a little later - at the end of spring or at the very beginning of summer.
Which apple trees require the least pruning?
From this point of view, the most advantageous are apple trees with a mixed type of fruiting, which are characterized by good bud awakening and average branching. They produce fruiting branches of medium strength, perennial and well branched. And fruit buds form on the branches various types(from ringlets to branches with strong growth). As a result, apple trees of such varieties require relatively little shortening (pinching) and rather infrequent crown thinning.
Apple trees with poor branching must be stimulated by regular pruning (shortening shoots by 1/3 or even 1/2 of their length), and apple trees with too intense branching - by equally regular complete removal of branches that thicken the crown.
Golden rules for pruning apple trees
1. The most important thing when pruning is not to overdo it. To avoid weakening trees, they should not suffer several large wounds in one year. Therefore, neglected, dense crowns must be brought into proper shape not in one year, but gradually, over 2-3 years. It is better to take timely care of the tree crown - in this case, you can get by with minimal pruning.
2. When thinning, instead of cutting out a large number of small branches, it is better to remove 1-2 large ones. In this case, the tree will suffer less from the wounds inflicted on it. Trimming too large quantity branches can cause dangerous stress to the tree. And the consequence of this may be a decrease in the number of fruit buds.
3. Dry branches must be cut back to healthy wood, otherwise the wounds will not heal.
4. When pruning, you should not leave stumps, but also not touch the bark on the supporting branch or trunk.
5. The upper branches should be cut more radically, not the lower ones. Then the rays of light will penetrate the entire crown and ensure good fruiting on the lower branches.
6. It is necessary to cut out branches growing towards the center of the crown. Thanks to this pruning, the illumination of the tree improves, and the fruits become open to light.
7. When thinning the crown, you should cut out branches that extend at an acute angle from the trunk. Such branches are not able to withstand the weight of grown fruits and often split.
8. Apple trees with clearly expressed periodic fruiting are pruned in a lean year.
9. Wounds with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm or more immediately after pruning must be covered with garden varnish or a mixture of clay and mullein.
10. It should be remembered that any pruning delays fruiting; strong pruning (when most of the branch is removed) “depresses” the remaining part of the branch, and weak pruning (when a small part is removed) forces the remaining part to branch. Therefore, pruning should only be a necessary measure with which to eliminate various defects tree.
Easy rejuvenating pruning of actively fruiting trees
Mature trees of tall varieties during the period of full fruiting give growth of 30-40 cm. However, without annual “refreshing” pruning, the growth weakens over time, and the harvest from the internal parts of the crown is quickly transferred to its periphery. When the tree still bears fruit well, but the growth begins to gradually decrease (becomes shorter than 20-25 cm), it’s time to carry out light anti-aging pruning. First, up to 2-3-year-old wood, and then the old weakened ringlets are cut out, which almost do not bear fruit, nevertheless consuming a lot of nutrients.
Naturally, branches that thicken the crown are also regularly removed. The goal is to maintain good lighting within the entire crown, increasing growth and stimulating fruiting. U dwarf trees grafted on weak-growing rootstocks, shoot growth decreases faster. To enhance their growth and obtain larger fruits, anti-aging pruning should begin much earlier and be carried out more often.
Pruning frozen trees
Frozen trees are pruned after the degree of freezing has been determined. If annual branches and part of the buds are frozen, and small areas of bark or wood have slight damage, then such trees are pruned in the spring, removing branches on which freezing is clearly visible. The cutting of dried branches is done already at the beginning of summer. In case of severe freezing, pruning is postponed until the beginning of the growing season, because a final conclusion about the degree of freezing of a tree can only be made at the beginning of summer. In this case, pruning is done in the place of active growth of shoots to healthy wood.
When pruning trees with strong shoot-forming ability, shortening the branches should be avoided. This results in excessive thickening, requiring more severe pruning. If the shoot-forming ability is weak, then shortening the branches is absolutely necessary, because it prevents the development of bare branches over a large area.
On extremely poor Ural soils, such large growths (30-40 cm) are possible only with ideal tree nutrition (good pre-planting soil preparation and sufficient and timely fertilizing). Therefore, if your apple trees do not produce large gains, you need to first consider whether they are receiving sufficient nutrition, and only then think about the need for pruning. After all, pruning is the easiest thing to do, but then growing new branches will be much more difficult. If you were not able to perfectly accurately determine the degree of freezing of the tree, then there is no need to rush to trim it - it is better to wait until it is completely clear. There is absolutely no need for unnecessary wounds and a frozen tree weakened after winter - they will only aggravate the stress the plant is already in.
To remove large fruits from an apple tree, it is necessary to regularly prune the trees. And performing this procedure helps to correctly form the top. But not all gardeners, even those with experience, know how to prune apple trees in the fall and why this particular period is best suited for such manipulation.
So, when is it better to prune an apple tree, how this procedure is performed and what it gives, we will consider in detail below.
Why is pruning needed?
When is the best time to carry out this procedure?
Trimming scheme
Conclusion
Why is pruning needed?
If you are a novice gardener, then it will be very useful for you to learn how to properly prune an apple tree in the fall and what this procedure gives. Let's start with what it is fruit tree loves a lot sunlight and if you take into account and also observe this feature when growing, then the apples will be large, juicy and aromatic.
And to easily perform pruning for beginners, you will need to stock up on the following available tools:
- appropriate clothing, glasses, shoes and gloves;
- ladder;
- garden knives and scissors;
- chainsaw, pruning shears and hacksaw.
Using these available tools, any novice gardener can perform pruning.
When is the best time to carry out this procedure?
Perhaps, actual question question that almost all beginning gardeners ask is when to prune apple trees in the fall. First of all, not only autumn, but also spring is suitable for this procedure. With the onset of the spring season, all the pagons that were affected by frost are cut out and the crown is formed to obtain a good harvest.
They try to perform pruning even before the sap flow begins. But in the fall, such a procedure is mandatory and very important. Autumn procedure done when all the leaves have fallen from the apple tree. All broken, rotten and improperly growing branches are cut out.
So, proper pruning in the fall is done as follows:
- begin this procedure immediately after the leaves fall;
- Finish pruning two weeks before the onset of frost.
It should be taken into account that if the cutting does not last until winter, it will certainly freeze, this will greatly affect the general condition apple trees
For this reason, try to finish everything gardening work at least two weeks before the onset of frost, and do not forget to carefully cover all cut areas with garden varnish.
It is also worth emphasizing that autumn is a good period for performing several types of pruning, which are resorted to, taking into account the age of the apple tree, namely:
- pruning of a young apple tree in the fall is carried out by no more than 25%, only those shoots that have grown during the growing season are cut out;
- pruning a two-year-old apple tree is carried out using a similar method;
- branches of apple trees older than 5 years are cut to 13;
- Trees older than 7 years need deep pruning, in which all branches are shortened by 50%.
It is in this way that autumn pruning is performed, which is also sanitary in nature.
But pruning an apple tree according to spring pattern It's done a little differently. As described above, it must be carried out before the sap begins to move in the tree; as a rule, this time falls at the end of March. Make the cut as follows:
- all the branches that grow in inner part crowns, need to be completely excised;
- and also cut off broken branches, frozen branches and twigs;
- during spring pruning, they get rid of weak shoots and those that do not bear fruit;
- cut out all the pagons that are in contact, since they only interfere with the normal formation of the crown of the apple tree.
So, when to prune apple trees in the fall or spring, we discussed above, but one more question remains very relevant - this is pruning in the summer and why it is needed. As a rule, such manipulation is not carried out in summer time, but sometimes it is performed as a sanitary measure.
Summer pruning can also be carried out to properly form the crown. The fact is that in the summer it is very clear which branches are growing incorrectly and creating unnecessary shadow.
Therefore, experienced gardeners often resort to the so-called pruning procedure, with the help of which the top of the apple tree is adjusted.
In general, it is worth emphasizing that pruning apple trees is actually not a difficult task, even in the fall for beginners.
It is important to follow all the simple recommendations and have the required means available. However, do not forget that performing this manipulation is very important stage successful cultivation orchard. Therefore, do not ignore pruning, but be sure to carry it out.
Trimming scheme
So, we discussed above when and how to prune fruit trees; the question of how to prune apple trees in the fall remains relevant.
First of all, any procedure begins with a visual inspection of the tree. First you need to correctly determine the scope of work, and then boldly take on it. So, pruning is done as follows:
- first, all branches that form inside the tree are excised, including small shoots;
- then all pagons growing at an angle and those that form parallel to an adult and good branch are removed;
- next, cut off all the intertwined strips;
- the next stage is thinning the top; it is especially important to trim the crown if it is very thick.
The main rules of pruning are to remove all broken and cracked branches and twigs. It should be borne in mind that the pruning pattern is directly related to the age of the plant. For example, an apple tree older than 5 years is considered fully mature.
On such a tree, apples are formed first on older branches that can withstand their weight, and then on younger branches. Therefore, pruning of such a plant is done very carefully, trying not to damage healthy fruit-bearing branches.
As for processing a young seedling, this procedure is performed as follows: it is not recommended to touch the lower part on which the buds are located, but only cut off the top using a disinfectant at hand.
Well, as for only the planted sprout, it is better to prune it after planting it in a permanent place to give the root system an opportunity to strengthen.
Once pruned after planting, the tree is not subject to deep pruning for the next three years. For such seedlings, only sanitary pruning is performed, in which dry, frozen and deformed branches are cut out.
The main thing that every novice gardener needs to understand is that young branches need to be pruned correctly. IN
This procedure is performed in the following way: when the tree is 2 years old, the first pruning is performed at 23. Keep in mind that the remaining buds should face the outside. This rule is also observed when the top is formed.
So, above we looked at whether and when it is possible to prune apple trees in the fall. It remains to find out what schemes exist and when they are applicable. First you need to understand the diagrams. On this moment there are 3 of them, namely:
- weak pruning;
- middle trim;
- heavy pruning.
An annual apple tree needs shallow pruning. With this manipulation, new shoots that have appeared during one growing season are excised.
For trees older than five years, medium pruning is performed. It is very important to form more fruiting branches. To do this, each sprout is cut by 13. Moreover, during this manipulation, all dry sprouts must be completely excised.
Another important detail that you should pay attention to is that it is not advisable to cut down all the branches growing next to the trunk. The problem is that a branch may fall out, resulting in a hollow, and this great harm for a fruit plant.
To avoid such a nuisance, it is necessary to perform the following action: the pagon is excised to the first bud, and then carefully sawed off the remaining stump with a saw. After this manipulation is completed, you need to thoroughly cover all cut areas with garden varnish.
Moreover, if you perform pruning on a day such as a cloudy or rainy one, you will need to lubricate all places with varnish again every other day.
Conclusion
Today there are many varieties of apples and, depending on the area of growth, care and pruning may differ slightly.
For example, in the Urals, winters are quite severe, protracted and come much earlier; accordingly, such manipulation is carried out in September, which is different from the middle zones. As for performing such a procedure, it is universal for everyone; first, they begin to trim the crown of the tree.
In a region such as the Moscow region, autumn pruning is carried out at the usual time, starting in October. In more southern regions, pruning time falls in November. In this case, it is necessary to take into account one simple rule: it is recommended to carry out such manipulation at least two weeks before the onset of the first frost, so that the cut points have time to tighten.
In general, pruning apple trees in the fall is a simple process, as it might seem at first glance. If you follow the step-by-step recommendations, even a beginner can successfully cope with the task.
Young apple trees without pruning may grow incorrectly, become thickened and produce small harvests. The rules for pruning young trees are slightly different from those for mature trees. To achieve success, you must strictly follow the recommendations and prune according to a certain pattern.
Why do you need to prune apple trees?
Pruning an apple tree is not the easiest thing, but it must be done. In addition to creating a beautiful appearance tree, this procedure affects the quantity and quality of the harvest.
For young apple trees, pruning is especially important. If not done in a timely manner, it leads to overloading and breaking of branches, reducing the quality of fruits and winter hardiness of the tree.
Competent and timely pruning:
- helps limit tree height,
- allows you to form a compact crown,
- improves its illumination and ventilation.
Due to this, the likelihood of damage by pests and diseases is reduced. In addition, we must keep in mind that by their nature, many apple trees are prone to periodic fruiting, and regular pruning “forces” them to produce large harvests every year.
Young apple trees are pruned to form a crown, and then the resulting shape is maintained through thinning and sanitary pruning.
Although trees of any age can be pruned, for young apple trees certain rules must be taken into account, which we will consider.
When to prune
There is no single rule about the timing of pruning apple trees. Some gardeners, relying on own experience, they claim that others call it autumn, others call it summer, and some even prune it in winter.
Based on the life processes occurring in the tree, the most suitable time can still be considered early spring, before the buds open. For different regions this period falls on different time: from March to May. At this time, sap flow has not yet begun, so the tree will not lose excess juice, and the cuts will have time to dry out. At the same time, soon after pruning, the movement of nutrients and moisture will begin, which will contribute to the rapid healing of wounds.
Whenever you carry out pruning, remember that it is better to do it during the dormant period of the tree and in no case during severe frosts, at -8...-10 o C).
Features of the formation of the crown of a young apple tree
It is necessary to obtain an easy-to-process, compact crown that is well-lit and aerated. The process begins immediately after landing.
Pruning one- and two-year-old trees
Some gardeners do not advise pruning a seedling in the first year after planting. This recommendation is explained by the fact that the seedling was already badly damaged when dug up in the nursery, and additional pruning increases the shock. On the other hand, many believe that pruning the above-ground part of the seedling reduces the load on the root system.
Starting from the first year, a young tree needs to be shaped by choosing the right skeletal branches
In general, you can listen to any of these recommendations: nothing bad will happen if you start forming a tree from the second year after planting. The formation of an apple tree can be carried out according to various schemes, but the most common is a sparse-tiered one, which is formed within 3–4 years from the moment of planting.
Typically, an annual tree does not have well-developed lateral branches, so during the first pruning it is necessary to remove all lateral branches at a level of 1 m from the ground surface, wait for new lateral shoots to appear and begin forming a crown from them. A young tree may have various defects, which can be corrected by primary pruning.
Depending on the defects and the degree of development of the seedling, various pruning techniques must be used.
For well-branched seedlings, another technique should be used - shorten all side branches at a height of 70 cm from the soil level. To do this, you can install a horizontal rail at a level of 70 cm from the soil and cut off all the ends of the side branches located above the rail. If strong branches If there are any above this level, remove those that grow at an acute angle to the trunk. If this is not done, the branches may break under the weight of the harvest. In general, improperly performed pruning can lead to the trunk breaking.
If you want to preserve abnormally growing shoots, their position must be corrected with spacers or stretchers. This procedure is carried out when the shoots are as flexible as possible, usually in summer. Shoots growing at an angle of about 90 degrees should be shortened to 3–5 buds. Such branches subsequently provide the tree with a strong crown.
An apple tree with branches growing horizontally begins to bear fruit earlier. If growth is too rapid, the conductor should be shortened, while maintaining the subordination of the branches: the height of the leading shoot should be 20–30 cm greater than the length of the side shoots. If the central shoot is damaged, it should be replaced with the most developed side branch. To do this, in order for this branch to become vertical, it is tied to the leading shoot, and when the branch acquires a vertical position, the central shoot is removed.
In two-year-old apple trees, you can form the basis of the future crown
In the second year of life, the apple tree usually already has several side branches, so the principles of pruning it differ from pruning an annual tree. For proper pruning, select 4–5 most developed branches, extending at a wide angle from the trunk and located evenly on the trunk. These branches will be the main ones in the future crown; they form the first tier. The remaining branches are cut off. The central branch with well-developed buds, growing vertically, is chosen to act as a conductor. The leader should be 5-6 buds higher than other branches.
The selected skeletal branches should be located close to each other in height (with a difference of up to 10 cm) and form the first tier. The lower of these branches should be the longest (30–35 cm), the upper ones should be shortened slightly to immediately ensure subordination. Those branches that grow too quickly and are longer than the main ones need to be removed.
Thus, from the second year of the tree’s life, the foundation of the crown is laid (if you planted a 2-year-old seedling, then the skeleton is laid at the first pruning).
Video: pruning a young apple tree on video
Pruning 3–5 year old apple trees
Starting from the third year, for 3–4 years, you should not prune young trees too intensively. Excessive pruning can delay fruiting. Of course, you need to cut out diseased and broken branches to the ground.
In addition, you need to gradually add new tiers of skeletal branches. The second tier is laid 50–55 cm above the lower one (laid on a two-year-old apple tree), the subsequent ones - at greater distances. The intervals between branches in the tier should be 30–40 cm. Branches should not be allowed to intersect!
If the conductor is growing very actively, its growth needs to be slightly restrained by shortening it so that the upper tiers do not end up much higher than the previous ones.
Video: different possibilities for forming the crown of apple trees
Pruning young apple trees for beginners
Pruning may seem complicated matter for inexperienced gardeners, but knowledge and application of theoretical rules, frequent practice will help you quickly acquire the necessary skills.
The main thing is that you don’t need to be afraid of ruining something - only those who do nothing don’t make mistakes. The golden rule for a beginner should be “it is better not to cut than to cut.” If you are in doubt whether a branch should be cut, it is better to leave it until next time and consult with more experienced colleagues.
Basic pruning techniques
Excess branches are cut out “in a ring” - that is, along the annular influx that exists at the base of each branch. This influx contains cells that are able to quickly multiply and close the wound. If you make a cut below the influx, the wound will take a very long time to heal and will become a “gateway” for various infections. If you cut above the overflow, you will get a stump, which will then dry out and expose the bark. If necessary, you can leave a stump 10–15 cm long in order to tie other branches to it, but such stumps should remain no longer than a year. At the next trimming, they are still cut into a ring.
Depending on the angle of the branch, the cut is made directly along the annular bead, or along a line bisecting the angle between the trunk line and the perpendicular to the branch being removed
Sections with a diameter of more than 1 cm must be immediately covered with putty paste or garden varnish.
When forming the crown of a young tree, some branches are not cut out, but shortened. In this case, a cut is made either to the internal or to the external bud. The buds on the shoots are arranged in a checkerboard pattern: one “looks” at the trunk, and the next one looks outward. External bud pruning means that the cut is made near the bud facing outward. How and in what cases is this done? If the crown needs to be thinned out and its diameter expanded, then the thickening branches are cut out, and some are shortened with a cut to the outer bud.
A cut to the internal or external bud allows you to correct crown defects
If the crown is sparse and weak, with overgrown lower branches, then a cut is made to the inner bud.
To ensure the correct cut, you need to place a sharpened garden knife on the opposite side of the bud, 2–3 mm below, cut the branch at an angle of 45° so that the knife comes out 2–3 mm above the bud. It is advisable to support the branch from below with your left hand and make the cut in one quick movement. It is very important that the tissue at the cut site does not fray. If this happens, you need to immediately clean the cut with a knife.
In order for the left bud to develop normally, the cut must be made at an angle 2–3 mm above the bud
It is easy for a beginner to get confused in the variety of recommendations for pruning young apple trees. In order to think less about the rules, you can remember only one thing - the “magic three”.
When planting an apple tree seedling, trim it so that only 3 growth buds remain. Over the summer, they will turn into identical branches.
Next spring, the pruning procedure is repeated, leaving only 3 growth buds for each of the 3 branches. By the end of the second summer of life, the apple tree has 9 branches.
The same pruning is repeated in the third year and completes the formation of the crown. As a result, the apple tree has 27 identical branches, which form a symmetrical, even bush no more than 3–3.5 m high. If damaged by frost or pests, such a crown is easily restored.
Pinching is done in summer to improve branching
Subsequent care consists of leaving only 1 growth bud on each branch. At the same time, fruit buds develop perfectly and the apple tree begins to bear fruit earlier than its peers, producing fairly large yields.
In addition to the main pruning, you should pinch out all the side branches during the summer season so that the crown does not thicken. Good heating of the crown promotes good growth tree.
Pruning a young tree is the key to health and good fruiting in the future. It is necessary to choose the main branches and conductors correctly, carry out pruning in a timely manner and follow the rules. For beginners, it is recommended to use the most in a simple way formation of a young apple tree - the “magic three” rule.
Pruning apple trees is a technique that every gardener needs to know.
By using pruning at random, without knowing the rules, gardeners can cause irreparable damage to fruit trees.
Proper pruning is an important element in the formation of a well-groomed, consistently fruit-bearing apple orchard.
Before properly pruning an apple tree - It is necessary to carefully study pruning methods and their types.
Types of pruning
Pruning can be formative, sanitary, rejuvenating and regulating. Formative pruning creates a strong skeleton for the tree, on which only strong, fruit-bearing branches remain. Sanitary pruning is designed to clean the tree from damaged and incorrectly growing branches.
Rejuvenation - removal of old fruit branches. By using regulating pruning The height of the apple tree is restrained, the crown is thinned out, and fruiting is regulated.
Based on intensity, pruning methods are divided into pinching, weak, medium and strong.
Pinching is used during the active development of annual green growths. With light pruning on young trees, the growth of new shoots is stimulated; skeletal branches are cut by one quarter.
With medium pruning, the branches are cut off by one third. This method is used on mature apple trees that are more than five years old. Heavy pruning involves the complete removal of a large number of branches. This is how the crowns of mature trees are thinned out.
Basic Techniques
Trimming to ring
This technique is used when you want to completely delete a branch. At the point of growth, each branch has a ring-shaped growth.
In this place, tissue cells are able to actively divide, so a cut made into a ring heals quickly. It is important to make an even, clean cut so that approximately half of the ring remains on the branch, and half on the base.
You cannot cut too far from the base - a stump will remain. The consequence of such pruning is that the stump dries out, falls out and forms a hollow. You cannot completely cut off the ring from the base, going deeper into the cambium - this will injure the tree.
Bud pruning
With partial removal of branches, pruning to the outer bud allows you to expand the crown and reduce its density.
A cut to a bud looking inside the crown is used to shoots began to grow inward, and the crown became dense.
The correct cutting distance is no more than 50mm from the selected bud. Exceed this distance and a stump will remain; if it is too low, there is a risk of kidney damage.
Cuts should be immediately cover with garden varnish, oil paint or drying oil so that the wound is not damaged by infection.
An example of correct pruning for a bud.
Large ring sections It’s better to disinfect it first antifungal drugs , for example a solution copper sulfate or iron sulphate(three or five% respectively).
Terms of work
The timing of pruning is determined by the needs of the trees, not the gardener. Best time carrying out work is the very beginning of sap flow. Tree pruning begins in the spring from mid-April and continues until the buds break..
Advice! Early summer It is convenient to carry out sanitary pruning, since it becomes clearly visible which shoot survived the winter and which froze.
During this period, it is easy to identify branches infected with infection or pests. In August, pruning can be done in areas where spring return frosts are common. This will slow down the beginning of the tree’s growing season for the next season and will preserve the fruit buds.
A good time to prune apple trees is autumn, when the leaves and fruits have already been dropped. The main thing that for the next two to three weeks the air temperature did not drop below ten degrees. In the south, in climates with warm winters, the pruning period can last until February.
Based on the timing of work, methods and types of pruning, you can draw up work plans for different seasons.
Apple tree pruning diagram for beginners
How to properly trim apple tree branches in spring?
in spring main tasks of a gardener– eliminating the consequences of wintering apple trees, preparing them for the new season. Sanitary pruning is carried out, young apple trees form:
- all broken, burned and frostbitten branches are removed;
- branches severely damaged by infections or pests are completely destroyed;
- branches growing inside the crown and forming an acute angle with the trunk are removed;
- old trees can be rejuvenated;
- Strong or medium regulatory pruning is carried out if necessary.
By carrying out regulatory pruning in the spring, you can control the amount of harvest. If the previous year the tree gave big harvest, it laid some flower buds. In this case, spring regulatory pruning will not be necessary.
If the previous year was not rich in harvest, then in the spring the tree must be pruned quite strongly. This way the apple tree will have as many fruits as it can grow without spending excessive effort.
How to prune apple trees in summer?
Drastic pruning is possible only as a reaction to negative natural phenomena.
- early summer– time to remove diseased branches if the extent of their damage was not visible in the spring;
- end of June– make pinching vigorously growing green shoots so that they do not take away nutrition from the main skeleton of the plant and do not shade the crown;
- Anytime those branches that have broken or cracked under the influence of natural factors or the severity of the harvest are pruned;
- The end of the summer— old branches of adult plants on which few apples have formed and those that shade young fruit-bearing branches are removed;
- The end of the summer– prune fruit-bearing trees to slow down the start of the growing season next season, if necessary.
If there are no sick or broken branches on the apple trees, in the summer you can limit yourself to only pruning that regulates the density of the crown. Knowing how to prune an apple tree during the summer months will help you achieve a successful harvest.
How to prune apple trees in the fall?
You can do all the pruning work that you didn’t have time for in spring and summer:
- branches broken by the wind are removed;
- branches that have broken or cracked under the weight of the fruit are removed;
- after fruiting, sanitary pruning is carried out to get rid of the consequences of harvesting;
- anti-aging pruning of old apple trees is carried out;
- if during the fruiting period branches were noticed on adult apple trees on which there was practically no harvest, they should be removed;
- branches on which small and deformed fruits have grown are removed;
- branches that shade the main fruit-bearing shoots are removed;
- branches heavily damaged by pests, bacterial or fungal infections are removed.
Advice! There is no universal pruning scheme; focus on the individual needs of each apple tree.
The need for pruning depends on many factors. One of them is the age of the orchard.
How to properly saw down apple trees of different ages?
Having decided to prune a young apple tree, the gardener sets himself the goal of planting good foundation for its further development. An old fruit tree is pruned to enhance fruiting, remove crown defects, and preserve vitality for further growth. Most of the work associated with pruning adult apple trees is aimed at getting rid of diseases and pests.
Although the methods and types of work for pruning young and mature trees are the same, the technology of work is different. Let's look further at how to prune an apple tree by year.
annual apple tree
The gardener has two tasks at this stage: to restrain the growth height of the central shoot so that the skeletal side branches develop well, and to form a trunk. Formative pruning of young apple trees should begin one year after landing.
At the age of one year, the seedling consists of a trunk and 2 - 3 branches. If the central trunk is cut at a height of 0.8 - 1 meter, the growth of lateral shoots will increase. Long skeletal branches must be shortened. Each of them should be 16-20 cm shorter than the height of the trunk, and have from three to five buds.
To form the correct trunk, the shoots that grow on the seedling at a distance of 40-50 cm from the ground must be removed. Branches that have an angle of up to 60 degrees at the point of growth will not be able to form a good backbone on their own. You can deal with them in two ways: remove or try to give them a horizontal position.
Two year old apple tree
If you are wondering how to prune a 2-year-old apple tree, then you should know that pruning helps to properly lay the tiers of skeletal branches.
The shape of the crown, any other than cup-shaped, requires the presence of two to five large branches on each tier. The interval between the formed levels is approximately 40 - 60 cm, and depends on the expected height of the tree.
The branches of each level should be located at a relatively equal distance from each other, relative to the circumference of the tier. In a two-year-old seedling, the skeletal branches are shortened.
If a decision is made to form an apple tree in the form of a bowl, then in the second year of life the seedling completely remove the central trunk. The cut is made above the first fork of the branches.
In the absence of a center, the side branches will take on its role. An apple tree will form, consisting of 2-4 trunks, depending on the number of skeletal branches on the first tier.
Until the age of five, the crown continues to form.
Mature apple tree
Starting from the age of five, the main pruning is carried out on fruit trees. Before starting it, sanitary pruning is carried out. When the apple tree is cleaned, they begin rejuvenation:
- cut off all old branches that are no longer capable of producing apples of varietal size and quality;
- some of the tops are cut out;
- intersecting branches are cut into the ring;
- all branches directed inside the crown and downwards are removed;
- shoots growing at the roots and growing near the trunk are destroyed;
The last stage of anti-aging procedures is shortening the trunk. Tall trees can be pruned to 3.5 - 2.5 meters without harming the intensity of fruiting. Removing the top allows light to enter the crown, helps increase the quality of fruits and their quantity.
Important! If the apple tree is more than eight years old, you cannot do anti-aging pruning at one time.
Losing a large volume of vegetative mass at the same time is a big stress for an old tree. It is better to distribute the work over several years.
Pruning apple trees on dwarf and columnar rootstocks has its own peculiarities.
How to prune a dwarf apple tree?
On a dwarf rootstock, apple trees produce abundant harvests and begin bearing fruit earlier. If dwarf fruit trees are not pruned, their total fruiting period may be reduced to 3 to 5 years.
In the first year of life, the skeleton of the crown is formed by trimming the trunk. The cutting height depends on the variety and is 40-70cm. Side shoots trimmed so that the crown visually looks like ball, hat or triangle.
The closer to the top of the apple tree, the stronger the branches develop. Strong upper branches are shortened, which stimulates growth and development of shoots in the center of the crown. Tree branches on dwarf rootstocks if they are healthy, rarely cut out completely. Most often, two to four buds are left on them.
As soon as the apple tree begins to bear fruit, the number of flower buds should be regulated so as not to overload the apple tree with fruits. Under the weight of fruits dwarf varieties It may not only be the branches that are broken. A tree can uproot itself from the ground.
How to properly prune a columnar apple tree
The crown shape of columnar apple trees is special. The width of such a tree does not exceed 50 cm, it does not have long side branches. Regular trimming of columns is not required. But sometimes the apple tree needs pruning.
Damage to the top of the trunk
Damage to the top - one of the most common problems columnar apple tree. Damage is usually caused by frost and pests, then by the beginning of the season the apical part of the trunk dries out and dies. These processes force gardeners to trim the top.
The peculiarity of pruning shoots at the crown is that it is necessary not only to cut off the central shoot, but also to find a replacement for it. If this is not done, the apple tree will form several trunks at the top, will lose its column shape. To create a new crown, choose the strongest shoot that grows vertically.
The remaining vertical branches are cut off, leaving two to three buds from the base. The former crown is removed at the point of contact with the selected leader.
To avoid the need for pruning, the top of the columns should be wrapped for the winter.
How to trim an apple tree while maintaining the shape of the crown?
In the first year of growth, columnar varieties, as a rule, do not require gardener intervention in the process of crown formation. Starting from the age of two, young growths begin to compete with fruiting branches, take food from them.
It is during this period that the gardener must intervene and adjust the ratio of the growth of the main branches and increments:
- all the shoots that the apple tree has formed are pinched at the same distance from the trunk, which is 25-30 cm;
- in the third and subsequent years, pinching is carried out at a distance of 30-40 cm;
- starting from the fourth year, three-year-old branches are partially removed.
The peculiarity of pruning side shoots is that with systematic pinching, the columnar apple tree will not need pruning. Since pinching is a more gentle procedure, The apple tree is not injured and does not experience stress.
Thus, during periods of severe frosts and sharp temperature fluctuations, the flower buds, trunk and, most importantly, the bark of the apple tree will not be damaged.
Any apple tree needs special maintenance care after pruning.
How to prune an apple tree: video of the correct technique
If you don’t know how to properly prune an apple tree, we recommend watching this video:
And in this video, see the details and subtleties of spring pruning of apple trees:
Apple tree care after pruning
After pruning, fruit trees need watering and fertilizing. If pruning was carried out in the spring, it is necessary to add fertilizers that contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in equal parts.
After autumn pruning, fertilizers are applied, which contain potassium and phosphorus - they stimulate wound healing and strengthen the bark of the apple tree. Nitrogen fertilizers in autumn period should be avoided.
Adding nitrogen in the fall will give impetus to the development of new shoots; as a result, the wood of annual growths will not have time to fully ripen, and the apple tree will not prepare for wintering. As a result, the cuts made in the fall may be susceptible to frostbite.
When fertilizing, you should strictly follow the norms for applying fertilizers. Over-fertilizing apple trees will do more harm than good.
Apple tree pruning diagram.
How to prune an apple tree by year.
How to prune an apple tree in the fall.
How to prune apple trees to form a tree crown.
Instead of a conclusion
When preparing to prune an apple tree, you must remember that when cutting each branch, you should answer the question “why?” There is an answer - cut. There is no answer, which means this branch can remain on the apple tree.
If a bacterial or fungal infection is raging in the area - garden pruning should be postponed. Every cut is a potential entry point for microbes.
Proper pruning is the key to the health and fertility of an orchard.
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