Do-it-yourself installation of a metal tile roof - step-by-step instructions. Installation of metal tiles yourself. Installation diagram of a metal tile roof.

Metal tiles are an engineered “fusion” of steel strength and the aesthetics of traditional ceramic roofing. Lightweight profiled sheets have virtually no effect on the weight of the structure and delight installers with their convenient dimensions.

A sure plus in the collection of material priorities is the ability to independently carry out the entire cycle roofing works without paid participation of builders. Just first you need to find out how to construct a metal tile roof with your own hands, and learn about the rules and subtleties of the process of its construction.

The corrugated metal sheets of the currently popular coating are equipped with double protection against atmospheric attacks. Steel profiled blanks are first immersed in containers with hot zinc, due to which an anti-corrosion film is formed on the surface. Then the outer side of the material is covered with a colored polymer shell, which performs aesthetic and protective functions.

However, both degrees of protection will not be able to withstand the attacks of precipitation and household fumes if the roofing pie is constructed with violations and errors. Condensation will begin to accumulate in the space under the coating, which will slowly but surely reach the metal. The insulation will become moist and lose its insulating properties. The wooden elements will get wet and rot as a result.

You shouldn’t completely rely on the light weight and impressive area of ​​​​sheets of material either: the rafter system must be strong enough, and the sheathing needs to be such that each element is fixed at the required number of points. Therefore, you should properly prepare for the independent installation of metal tiles, i.e. get acquainted with the nuances of the construction truss structure, sheathing and roofing pie.

Rafter system and sheathing

Metal tiles are used in the construction of cold and insulated roofs. The rafter system for the cold type can be constructed from steel or aluminum elements. But wood is still a priority, because it is easier to attach covering sheets to it. Insulated structures require more powerful roof trusses, because there will be thermal insulation between their legs. The use of metal in such situations is impractical, so warm roofs are arranged according to wooden rafters with lathing.

Please note that metal roofing can be installed on pitched roofs ah with a minimum slope slope of 14º. The optimal roof slope is considered to be from 15º to 20º.

The construction of a rafter system for a warm roof with metal tiles has its own rules, these are:

• The step between the rafter legs should not exceed 90cm. The minimum distance between rafters is 60cm. If the pitch of the existing rafter system is greater than the specified upper limit, an additional sheathing is installed from a transversely installed board.
• The rafter system is made of 50mm thick boards. The recommended board height is 100 or 150mm depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
• When laid in the spacer between the rafters, it should not come into contact with traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the construction of the rafter structure, then an additional counter batten measuring 30×50 or 50×50 is placed on the rafters along their direction. It will create a gap of 3-5cm.

To ensure ventilation wooden elements It is advisable to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 cm in the side rafter legs. Forming holes is an optional procedure, but strongly recommended by metal tile manufacturers. If there are concerns about the weakening of the structure, it is recommended to place them closer to the ridge in two or three rows with a step of 30 cm.

Before constructing the lathing, which acts as a basis for fastening sheets, you should check the geometric parameters of the rafter system. The lengths of the diagonals of the rectangular slopes should be measured and verified. On mansard roofs the lengths of the diagonals of each part of the slope separately. You need to check the horizontality of the overhangs and ridge, as well as the location of the outer surface of the rafter legs in the same plane. Timely identification of deviations in geometry will eliminate further errors.

Having convinced yourself of the geometric perfection of the trusses, you can begin to construct the sheathing, the construction of which, by analogy, has clear rules:

• The first batten - the lowest batten on the overhang should be higher than the subsequent row battens. To construct it, you need to take a block thicker than for ordinary laths. For example, for the bottom rail it is 50x50, and for all subsequent ones it is 30x50.
• The initial batten of the sheathing should be clearly parallel to the eaves line.
• The step between the first and second bars is 28 or 30 cm. The step between subsequent slats is 30, 35 or 40 cm. the pitch is determined by the distance between the transverse waves of the metal tile.
• During the installation of sheathing, through penetrations through the roof are taken into account and fastening devices for pipes are installed.
• In the grooves, around skylights, chimney, fan and other pipes, a continuous sheathing of boards is installed.
• At the top of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the eaves strip. The boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, before installing the sheathing, all wooden components should be treated with an antiseptic and fire-retardant compound.

The lathing not only plays the role of a basis for fastening sheets, but at the same time performs another very important job. It forms ventilation channels through which air flows circulate from the overhang to the ridge, and provides a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

Ventilation ducts must remain free so that air flows under the metal sheets without interference and exits the same way. On the side of the overhangs and on the side of the ridge, they are simply covered with perforated tape, which prevents dust and debris from getting into the roofing pie.

Structural roofing boards

Eaves boards are used to strengthen the slope and make it more rigid if the roof is planned to be equipped with an organized drainage system or the overhangs are hemmed with vinyl siding. In situations where the hemming is done simply with a board, there is no need to use board reinforcement.

The eaves boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves pre-selected in the rafters. The dimensions of the grooves must correspond to the dimensions of the board so that the overhang plane remains unchanged and the height of the rafter system does not increase. If you plan to install long hooks used to fix the gutter, grooves are cut out in the eaves board for their fastening. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the front board. They are used when the device drainage system It was not planned in advance when repairing old roofs either. The installation step of all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.

A front board is used if the roof does not have an organized drainage system. It is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. Serves as an element for fastening various roofing parts and accessories, including for hemming overhangs. The end board serves as the basis for the end strip, the latter covers the waterproofing laid on top of the board. In addition to its decorative function, the strip nailed to the end board prevents rattling of the roof.

Time to hem the overhangs

Coating manufacturers strongly advise lining overhangs with valves specially produced for this purpose, for example KTV or Vilpe. Siding, corrugated sheets or vinyl soffits are recommended for filing cornices. The extensions are sold complete with connecting parts and instructions. You can economically hem it with a board attached with a gap for roof ventilation.

Specifics of the roofing pie

The composition and structure of the roofing pie for metal tiles depends on whether the structure will be insulated or not. In the simplest non-insulated scheme, only a waterproofing film is used. A vapor barrier is used if the attic space is to be hemmed.

The insulated roofing pie includes three standard layers, these are:

• Vapor barrier. It is located on the side of the future intake of household fumes, i.e. from inside the rafter system. Its job is to protect the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to the overhangs with an overlap of 10-15 cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and connected into a single sheet with adhesive tape. Between internal lining attic and vapor barrier, a gap should be created by installing sheathing.
• Thermal insulation. Mineral wool boards are most often used as insulation, the thickness of which is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed between the rafter legs. To ensure installation rigidity, the slabs are cut 1.5-2 cm wider than the distance between the rafters.
• Waterproofing. It is needed as a barrier against precipitation. They lay it on the outside of the rafter system before installing the sheathing; they try to install it immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. Waterproofing material laid like a vapor barrier, in strips with similar overlaps and fastening methods.

The waterproofing layer is laid so that its sheet overlaps the perimeter wall lines by at least 20 cm. In areas where slopes meet and in valleys, laying is done with overlaps of 20-30 cm. The waterproofing must have a gap along the ridge line so as not to interfere with air circulation.

Important condition: Bituminous water-repellent materials cannot be used as waterproofing of the roofing pie when installing a metal tile roof. Waterproofing must allow steam and condensation accumulated in the insulation to pass through.

The method of installing a water-repellent layer depends on the material used:

• The classic version of waterproofing - reinforced or non-reinforced polyethylene film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by the rafter system and is located between the insulation and the film, the second is formed by the lathing and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each gap is 3-5cm.
• The superdiffusion membrane can work perfectly with one ventilation gap 3-5cm wide. It is created between the membrane and metal tiles. When using a polymer material, there is no point in breaking the contact between the waterproofing and the insulation. After all, the membrane is capable of allowing excess moisture to pass out, preventing it from getting inside.
• Anti-condensation materials with a fleecy surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washed with air, which should be provided with a path. Because this option also needs dual-circuit ventilation, like the classic. It is used mainly in the construction of cold roofs.

All types of insulating materials, except polymer waterproofing, are laid with sagging. This is necessary so that the film does not tear when tensioned. Only the membrane does not need to be laid with sagging - it has the property of stretching.

Around through passages through the roof, waterproofing is applied to the walls of communication pipes by 5-7 cm. Ideally, it is recommended to install an additional waterproofing layer around pipes and other weakened areas of the roof.

Installation of parts before laying the covering

Before laying metal tiles, the following must be installed:

• Eaves strips that prevent dust and debris from penetrating into the under-roof space. They are mounted on top of the ventilation tape attached to the ends and the legs of the drain hooks. The planks are attached to the front and cornice boards with self-tapping screws in 30cm increments. To prevent rattling from gusts of wind, these metal parts are installed with interference.
• Cornice drips, which are located under the waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from the waterproofing.
• A lower valley that enhances protection for concave roof corners. It is a metal corner that follows the shape of the groove. Mounted on top of a continuous plank sheathing. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice board. In almost flat valleys, the boardwalk is equipped with an additional strip of waterproofing. The lower valley is screwed with self-tapping screws every 30cm. A porous seal is laid over the lower valley.
• Protective edge around chimney pipes crossing the roof. It is carried out using metal contour strips, the upper edge of which is attached to a groove formed in the pipe walls and treated with sealant. Drilling into the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply when arranging junctions with walls.
• A lightning rod required for the safe operation of a metal roof.

The lightning rod system consists of three main parts. The first is an lightning rod, which is a steel or aluminum rod Ø 12 mm with a length of 20 cm to 1.5 m. The second component of the down conductor is a single-core steel or aluminum wire Ø 6 mm welded to the lightning rod. The down conductor is laid along the sheathing and along the walls, leading to grounding. Grounding, the third part of the system, is an iron beam 1.5 m long buried at a depth of 1.5 m or a steel sheet with an area of ​​1 m × 1 m, for example.

Rules for laying metal tile sheets

Before laying the profiled sheets, it is necessary to arrange logs for transporting the material to the roof. In order not to lift the covering one sheet at a time, it is advisable to build racks for temporary storage. More home handyman You will need soft shoes, diligence and accuracy when moving along the roof. The work performer is only allowed to step into the deflections of the profiled waves.

When laying metal tiles, you can move either to the left or to the right from the first fixed sheet. The main thing is that the sheet laid on top overlaps the capillary groove. The guideline for choosing the laying direction is convenience. However, it is better to proceed in such a way that the element laid on top is immediately placed under the outermost wave of the previous one and snapped into place with a capillary groove. This will keep it in place and prevent it from slipping.

Typical installation sequence

Indisputable rules for installing metal tiles:

• The starting sheets are attached to the first lath through a wave on top of the transverse step of the coating. Their lower edge extends 5cm beyond the cornice.
• All subsequent fastenings of sheets are carried out in the recessions of the waves from the bottom of the transverse step.
• Along the end board, a profiled covering is attached in all waves.

Before fastening, you must carefully check the horizontal position of the sheet. After making sure that the installation is perfect, it is temporarily secured with one screw at the top edge in the center. Then lay the second sheet, level it and temporarily fix it in the same way. The aligned sheets are fastened together. Do the same with the third and fourth.

Screwing to the sheathing is carried out when a block of 3-4 sheets is laid and temporarily secured. Fix the block at all specified points. Only the outermost sheet is not screwed to the sheathing, so that it remains possible to connect it with the subsequent element.

The process of laying metal tile sheets in several rows differs only in that the rows of material must also be fastened to each other. Sheets increase in height vertically.

Profiled sheets are suitable for pitched roofs of any configuration. However, to properly install a hip or hip roof made of metal tiles, you will have to act according to a different scheme.

Installation of sheets on triangular slopes:

• We find the center of the overhang and draw the central axis through it.
• We take the first sheet and do the same actions with it.
• We combine the axes of the slope and the sheet in fact, checking the horizontal and vertical.
• Temporarily secure the sheet with a self-tapping screw in the center at the top edge.
• We install the sheets to the right and left of the central covering element using the usual method.

After attaching the corrugated sheets, the excess is trimmed off.

Convenience of cutting with marking of material for arranging valleys, triangular, trapezoidal and oblique slopes will be provided by a homemade “devil”. It is constructed from four boards 10 cm wide. The boards are arranged in parallel pairs and connected to each other according to the hinge principle. A simple device will help you accurately outline the segments to be cut.

Final installation work

After laying the wavy coating, you can begin with the finishing touches with a light heart:

• Install passage elements around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roofing pie at the intersection points are sealed with adhesive tape. Butt seams are filled with sealant.
• Screw the end strip to the end board with self-tapping screws every 50-60cm.
• Screw top bar valley, having first laid a self-expanding seal on the coating.
• Build a skate. To do this, the outside of the ridge area is covered with Metalroll or Figarol waterproofing. Ventilation ducts must remain open. The ridge is fixed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws; the fasteners should be screwed through the convex ridge. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

A drainage system, snow retainers, ladders for maintenance and fencing, if planned, are installed over the laid covering.

A detailed video instruction will be an excellent way to consolidate information about installing a durable metal tile roof on a roof with your own hands:

There are many nuances in installing a roof with metal tiles. However, there is nothing super complex in the technology. It is necessary to become familiar with the intricacies of the device and follow them so that you do not have to change the roof again to the next option.

Metal tiles and metal profiles are two new materials that confidently occupy leading positions in the roofing market. Each of them has its own minor differences, mostly related to design solutions, but not technical parameters and performance characteristics.

In order to avoid annoying mistakes when installing a roof made of metal tiles, you need not only to know the technology of installation work, but also to understand why this or that operation is necessary. Experienced roofers have this specialized knowledge and it gives them the ability to take right decisions in unforeseen situations. During construction there are not and cannot be completely identical objects and conditions, experienced craftsmen independently choose the optimal solution to problems, taking into account the preferences and capabilities of the customer and existing objective factors.

We do not consider types of rafter systems; there are quite a few of them. By the way, not all of them count the best option for metal tiles. The article focuses on the types of roofing, and they can only be of two types.

Roof type	Performance characteristics
	Warm roofing is not a technical, but a commercial name. From a physical point of view, the roof itself does not heat anything; it does not produce thermal energy. A warm roof only minimizes heat loss from the attic and thereby improves microclimate parameters and reduces the cost of maintaining residential premises during the heating season. Such roofs are often called mansard; they are quite complex and very expensive structures. They require unquestioning compliance with manufacturers’ recommendations and building codes and rules. Developers should remember that deviations from existing technologies not only significantly reduce the efficiency of heat saving, this is not the main problem. The danger is that a poorly made warm roof causes rapid failure load-bearing elements rafter system. As a result, there is a need for roof repair work, which is always very expensive and time-consuming. Warm roofs began to be used in our country relatively recently, but even in this short time they have become very popular among developers.
	Common traditional roofing method on buildings for various purposes. This option is chosen when the attic space is not planned to be used as residential space; the estimated cost of the structure is much cheaper than a warm one. But there are certain nuances - some unscrupulous roofers are trying to convince customers of the need to install counter-lattice, vapor barriers and other elements of a warm roof on an ordinary roof. They justify this with various reasons, but do not indicate the main one. And it is very simple - the desire to receive the maximum amount of remuneration for your work, including useless ones. We will dwell on these nuances in more detail below.

Prices for metal tiles

Metal tiles

As an example, we will look at the most common technology for laying metal tiles - without an insulating layer. What are the most common mistakes made and what technology recommendations should be followed?

Vapor barrier for metal tiles

Unscrupulous or illiterate roofers strongly recommend that developers do a vapor barrier on a cold roof. Explanations - due to this, the ingress of steam onto metal sheets is reduced and their service life is greatly increased. In fact, everything is exactly the opposite; it significantly worsens operational parameters. Why?

1. Even theoretically, it is impossible to make a vapor barrier completely airtight; moist air will in any case reach the metal tiles through leaky joints, due to linear temperature fluctuations of the rafter system, due to the fact that the vapor barrier membranes themselves allow moisture to pass through in small quantities, etc. This This means that the presence of vapor barrier membranes does not exclude the formation of condensation on the sheets with all the negative consequences.
2. If a membrane is installed, the efficiency natural ventilation the under-roof space is significantly deteriorating. The counter-lattice with special vents also improves the situation slightly. The sheets dry best only when their plane is completely open; condensation is removed not only during the movement of air masses, but also in a calm state due to the difference in pressure of air saturated with vapor.
3. Visual inspection of the condition of wooden structures of the rafter system is very difficult. The roof can long time have leaks that are difficult to notice from the attic due to the installed membrane. Constantly wet wood is quickly affected by rot, loses its original load-bearing properties, and the rafter system requires complex repair work. Various impregnations help little.
4. Increasing roof estimate. The membrane costs a lot of money, especially the most modern so-called diffusion one. The work on its installation also has to be paid for, as a result - a noticeable increase in the estimated cost of the roof.

Using this example, we tried to explain why you should know not only the technology, but also understand the purpose of each operation; there should always be a clear logic and scientific explanation of certain actions.

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Vapor barrier material

When arranging this element, inexperienced builders often make two mistakes.

First. The bracket for fixing the gutter is attached directly to the first sheathing board. This cannot be done; the metal strip will rest against the tile sheet and deform it. This is in the best case, in the worst case, over time in this place, due to the inevitable vibrations of the roof, the thin rolled metal will become holed. There is no need to talk about the consequences. A special recess should be made under the bracket; its upper plane should not protrude above the surface of the boards.

Second. The thickness of the compensating strip under the eaves strip and the lower edge of the first sheet of roofing is not adjustable. Standard thickness lumber for sheathing and counter-battens 20–25 mm, the same dimensions for the plank for the compensating batten. As a result, it lifts the bottom edge of the sheet and bends the entire profile. There is no need to be lazy; it is strongly recommended to reduce the thickness of the slats and adjust its height to the parameters of the sheet profile. In most cases, the thickness of the lath should be 15 mm; specific values ​​depend on the type of metal tile and should be indicated in the installation instructions from the manufacturer. If the dimensions are adjusted correctly, the sheet of metal tile will be pressed tightly along the profile and there will be no sagging.

How to level the first sheets of metal tiles

The longer the building, the more important it is to accurately position the first rows of the roof. A few millimeters of error at one end of the slope turns into several centimeters at the opposite, and such an error is clearly visible from the ground; it is impossible to completely hide the defect.

But this is not all the problems. The fact is that the metal tiles need to be fixed only at the designated points under the upper part of the profile. The sheathing is made mostly from slats approximately 3 cm wide, thereby reducing the consumption of expensive lumber. A displacement of the sheets by two centimeters becomes critical - the screws do not hold the coating with the expected reliability. In the most difficult cases, you will have to either completely dismantle all installed sheets and start work again, taking into account the mistakes made, or nail additional lathing slats, taking into account the amount of displacement of the fixation points. Both options are very undesirable and always have negative consequences.

How to accurately install the first rows on a long slope? This is done in several stages.

1. Install two sheets of the first row and one sheet of the second on the rafter system. Make sure that they are connected in the designated places. The sheets on the slope should resemble the Latin letter “L”.
2. Tighten the self-tapping screw in one place, do not tighten it too much, the sealing rubber should only lightly touch the surface metal profile, but do not shrink. The self-tapping screw is fixed on the middle sheet approximately in the center. Due to this, you can carefully move all three sheets at the same time, they do not jump out of the factory locks, they turn to the right/left by a few centimeters. Such displacements are quite enough to accurately align the metal roof in relation to the eaves.
3. If you have a pre-tensioned rope for alignment, great, the process of installing the first sheets is somewhat simplified. When pulling the rope, you need to accurately measure the width of the slopes; the deviations along the extreme planes cannot exceed ±2 mm. If there is no rope, then the alignment will have to be done by eye. It is recommended to lay a few more along the length before finally fixing the position of the first sheets. This will increase the accuracy of the adjustment and completely eliminate the possibility of a very unpleasant error.

If there is a desire or need to make your own adjustments, then experienced roofers advise never reducing their total number per square meter of roofing. You can increase the number of attachment points; screw them into at least every wave.

This is exactly what should be done from the sides and eaves of the roof, then the maximum distance between hardware is in a checkerboard pattern across the wave. Less often, it is strictly prohibited, you should not experiment; with strong gusts of wind there can be explosions, even demolishing the entire roof.

Practical advice. There are recommendations to screw self-tapping screws into two sheets simultaneously at the point where the joint coincides; it is located on the upper crest of the wave. This can only be done in one case: when planning the placement of sheets of metal tiles, a mistake was made and the locks ended up on the leeward side of the roof. Fixing with self-tapping screws at the joints will reduce noise during strong gusts of wind and minimize the risk of fine dry snow blowing into the cracks.

You should work in soft shoes, stand only in recesses, the ridges can bend under the weight of a person. Follow the sheet layout recommended by the manufacturer; this will prevent large gaps from appearing at the junction of the four corners. How is this result achieved? It's quite simple. Even at the design stage of equipment for the production of corrugated sheets, special bending radii of the edges are provided, due to which they compensate for a slight increase in thickness.

It is preferable to lay sheets from right to left; this technology makes joining easier. If you do the opposite, then the joints of subsequent sheets will have to be pushed under the waves of the previous ones. This increases the risk of damage to the anti-corrosion protection and complicates the process of fixing screws.

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Screwdrivers

Step-by-step instruction

The more complex the roof truss system, the more difficult it is to make and the more unproductive waste there will be.

It is recommended to cover complex roofs with soft roofing materials. If in the future you plan to make cold roofs warm, then be sure to install wind protection. The fact is that all roof insulation operations can be done from the attic, you can’t just install wind protection (hydroprotection).

Check the dimensions of the sheathing. The distance between the slats along the axes should be 35 cm, this is the mounting standard for the vast majority metal sheets. The first batten is nailed closer, a distance of approximately 15–20 cm, depending on the specific manufacturer of the roofing material. The dimensions must be strictly observed, each self-tapping screw must be fixed only under the wave, it is in this place that the metal fits tightly to the slats. The further from the edge, the greater the distance between the sheet and the sheathing, which increases the deflection of the roof. It is recommended to comply minimum angle the slope of the slopes is at least 14°; the higher the value, the less the load on the profile, the less the risk of their deflection.

Video - Installation of lathing under metal tiles

Important. Always follow safety regulations when performing roofing work. Do not work without a safety net, do not lift sheet metal with ropes or in windy conditions. Always prepare special devices to facilitate movement on the roof, try to install scaffolding around the building.

Sheets can be cut using a portable circular saw with carbide teeth, electric or manual metal shears. As for the grinder, manufacturers prohibit the use of this tool for cutting sheets. Although in practice, craftsmen often cut metal tiles with a grinder. The fact is that the anti-corrosion layer suffers only at a width of 1–2 mm, and the cut site is always protected from atmospheric moisture by additional elements. To date, no roof leaks have been recorded due to cutting with a grinder. But violations of installation technology often cause leakage.

Metal shavings after cutting should be carefully removed with a soft brush, and any scratches should be repaired with a special polymer paint, sold complete with tiles.

Step 1. Proceed to install the vapor barrier film. It is mounted from the attic side, attached to the rafters using a stapler. The overlap is at least ten centimeters; the joints must be taped. Many modern materials have a ready-made adhesive strip, you need to remove the protective paper and connect the overlap. Carefully handle transition areas, joints of chimneys and other utilities. The better the vapor barrier is installed, the higher the heat saving parameters. The fact is that the thermal conductivity of mineral wool decreases sharply with increasing relative humidity.

Step 2. Nail the slats over the film; they are fixed to the rafter legs. The slats perform two tasks: they provide natural ventilation of the space between the vapor barrier and the ceiling and serve as structures for fastening the sheathing.

Step 3. Reinstall the insulation. Most often, basalt wool is used for these purposes. The thickness of the insulating layer must be at least 10 cm; if the building is located in cold regions, the thickness can increase to 25 cm.

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Important. Never try to save money by reducing the thickness of the insulation. Such actions have very sad consequences; significant financial investments will have to be made to eliminate them.

Lay the heat insulator with offset joints, do not allow the formation of cold bridges.

Step 4. For waterproofing under metal tiles, use a special membrane. It allows steam trapped in the mineral wool to pass through and prevents condensation from entering the insulation again. But this is not all the tasks of the membrane. The fact is that mineral wool has a very low density, air blows through it without any problems and carries away heat. To prevent heat loss, mineral wool should be protected from the wind; a membrane copes well with these functions. The overlap of the rows is 10–15 centimeters, the membrane is fixed with a construction stapler.

Step 5. Along the rafter legs it is necessary to install bars for the counter-lattice. To provide effective ventilation The recommended thickness of the bars is 5 cm.

The pitch of the sheathing is selected depending on the size of the wave of the tile profile; in most cases, this size is the same and equals 35 cm. Do not forget about the features of the first lath of the sheathing.

For lathing, it is better to use a board with a width of at least ten centimeters; this margin allows you to easily level out minor inaccuracies when laying metal tiles.

Lathing made of boards 100 x 25 mm

Step 6. Nail the cornice strips with an overlap of 10 cm, screw in the screws in a checkerboard pattern. It is not necessary to use galvanized hardware; they are located under sheets of metal tiles and are not exposed to the negative effects of precipitation. The pitch of the screws is ≈ 30 cm.

Install the ventilation strip. It protects the under-roof space from birds and large insects and does not interfere with effective ventilation.

Step 7 In the inner corners of the roof (valleys), install a continuous sheathing of boards; special elements will be fixed to it.

Step 8 Replace the metal valley strips. They have some differences between different manufacturers, but this does not affect the installation algorithm. After laying the tiles, the valleys are covered with decorative elements that cover uneven cuts and improve appearance roofs.

Step 9 Cover all junction points with special strips, seal the joints with sealant for external use. Don't forget about overlaps.

Practical advice. The joints are finished last on the already covered roof. To minimize the likelihood of deformation of metal sheets when walking and increase the safety of work, it is recommended to install a board on the roof, tying its ends to the ridge with ropes.

The planks are fixed to the ridges of the sheets, which requires increased care when screwing in the screws. The length of the hardware must ensure a strong connection with the sheathing slats.

The overhang of sheets along the eaves depends on the width of the gutter of the drainage system; for a 100 mm gutter, the overhang should be 50 mm.

The end strips are fixed to the end board in the direction from bottom to top, with an overlap of approximately 10 cm.

At the final stage, the ridge strip is attached. It can be mounted on perforated holders or fixed directly to the sheets. Don't forget to leave a hole at the ridge for natural ventilation. The gap is closed with a mesh made of durable non-woven material.

Ridge sheathing

If there is a need, then you need to install .

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Snow guard

At this point, the laying of the metal tile sheets is completed; we can begin finishing the soffits and installing the drainage system.

The drainage system can be plastic, metal or even wood. When choosing, it is important to take into account the quality and durability of the elements, and select a drain that matches the style of the roofing. If you have already made a choice and plan to install it yourself, be sure to read to learn about all the rules for installing drainage systems.

28.09.2017 0 Comments

The need for reliable and high-quality covering of structures for various purposes is an axiom. Developers are increasingly preferring metal tiles to replace classic slate and galvanized sheet metal. The seemingly complex installation of material, entrusted to specialists, can be successfully completed independently with helpers from among relatives and good friends. Desire, passion, presence necessary tools must be based on certain theoretical knowledge to obtain the expected result from the work. Theoretical points and useful tips presented in this material.

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Advantages and disadvantages of coating

The following qualities of roofing material can be cited in favor of choosing metal tiles:

• environmental friendliness - there are no harmful substances or compounds in the composition;
• light weight – 3.6-5.2 kg/m2;
• excellent strength, achieved by the presence of structural stiffening ribs, gives a correctly installed sheet of metal tile with a thickness of 0.5 mm the ability to withstand a load of more than 200 kg/m2;
• installation and repair of the roof is not difficult;
• Fire safety;
• aesthetic classic look with wide possibilities selection of materials of various thicknesses, profiles, protective coatings and colors;
• minimal linear expansion under the influence of temperature and high resistance to temperature changes.

When choosing a material, you need to know its disadvantages. For metal tiles it is:

• The tendency for condensation to form on the surface of the sheet due to the temperature difference between the outside air and the attic. For a material based on metal, this can cause corrosion processes.
• Noise when exposed to atmospheric precipitation (rain, hail) and from contact with tree branches swayed by the wind.

Both problems are significantly mitigated by mandatory roof insulation from the attic side. The insulating “pie” shifts the “dew point” outward and at the same time acts as sound insulation.

Calculation of material and necessary accessories

To order full set materials for roofing, it is necessary to measure the prepared structure. Subject to measurement:

• Length of the slope - measured in the center and at the edges of the overhang from the ridge to the outer edge of the lower eaves board. The main indicator is the maximum indicator with the addition of an overhang allowance.
• Slope width.
• Lengths of external (ridges) and internal (vales) angles and their summation.
• Lengths of ridges and eaves around the perimeter of the roof structure.

All measurement results are transferred to a sketch or roof plan. Using this sketch, a sales consultant or a specialist from a construction company will be able to make an accurate calculation required quantity sheets of metal tiles of various sizes. Sheets are produced in 1, 3, 6 or 10 modules (a module is a unit of area equal to one profile row of metal tiles). Selecting the required sheet sizes will reduce the amount of material waste when laying a roof with complex geometry.

An example of the layout of metal tile sheets on the first slope of a hip roof.

When calculating the number of sheets, their usable area is taken into account, which is 8-12% less than the total due to the overlapping of the sheets. Then the list is supplemented by water collectors, valleys, ridge, snow holders, strips and sheets of steel in the color of the selected tile, and the necessary fasteners. The roof plan should show existing and planned ventilation shafts, antennas, windows (dormers, dormer windows), and chimneys. Their finishing in places adjacent to the roof will also require the purchase of special fittings.

Preparatory work

Main installation work preceded by mandatory preparatory training. Their importance cannot be underestimated. At this stage they check:

• The correctness of the assembled rafter system, the accuracy of its geometry.
• Availability of sheathing and counter-lattice. Compliance of the section of the molding material and the pitch of the sheathing with the pitch of the rafters, the expected load, and the recommendations of the accompanying documentation of the tile manufacturer.
• The presence of a continuous or additional sheathing of the cornice for reliable fastening of the safety elements used (fences, snow guards).
• Integrity of insulation membranes.
• The presence of additional boards for fastening skates and boards for reinforcement in the valleys.
• Possibility of organizing ventilation of the entire space under the roof. For this purpose, mandatory cornice and ridge vents must be provided. If they are present, air enters the eaves part, ventilates and dries from possible condensation wrong side metal tiles, removed through the ridge zone.
• Has any processing been carried out? wooden structure by special means for fire and biological protection.

Installation of rafter system, sheathing and water vapor barrier.

Main works

Step-by-step installation of metal tiles on the roof on your own.

1. For the intended water drainage system, brackets are mounted no further than 0.7 m from each other.
2. Nail the cornice strips (30 cm increments) with galvanized nails. The waterproofing film laid under the sheathing is lightly applied to the plank and trimmed.
3. The first sheet of metal tile to be laid is aligned at the gable and temporarily secured with one screw at the ridge and the other at the eaves.
4. The next three sheets are temporarily secured and the entire block is leveled.
5. Now you need to secure all the sheets of tiles to the sheathing.
6. Next, the operation with 3-4 sheets is repeated until the entire slope is covered.
7. The edges of the metal tile profile should not reach the ridge axis at least 8 cm. A ventilation tape is installed on them and then ridge strips are attached to the highest points of the profile with self-tapping screws (step 30-80 cm).
8. The pediment strip is installed from bottom to top: the fastening step is 30-60 cm, the overlap is 5-10 cm. The plank should cover the top line of the profile wave.

Arrangement of valleys

Once the full-size tiles are laid, the interior corners are finished. More on preparatory stage additional sheathing boards were packed into the valleys to be able to withstand the load from possible snow “bags”. Now the gutter itself is laid from below to the ridge. bent sheet. Vertical overlap of sheets is 200 mm. The width of the sheet from the valley axis is 0.5 m per side.

Markings are made on the laid sheets of the gutter (10 mm on the sides of the valley axis), along which the sheets adjacent to the inner corner will be cut. A special seal is attached to the edges of the gutter. The sheets of metal tiles, cut according to the markings, are placed in their places and attached to the sheathing no closer than 0.25 m from the axis of the corner. An indicator of correct fastening is the absence of gaps between the tiles and the seal and the tight fit of the sheet to the sheathing board at the place of fastening. If the edges of the tiles adjacent to the valley were cut unevenly and with defects, do not worry. All imperfections will be hidden under the installed decorative overlay.

Roofing near pipes

The pipes and ventilation shafts passing through the roof along the perimeter are lined with a wall profile made of bent galvanized sheets with a stable polymer coating. The overlap of the profiles on the pipe is at least 15 cm. They are attached to the sheathing under the tile sheets, and the junction with the pipe is treated with sealant. A “tie” - a flat triangular sheet with a flange - is inserted and attached under the lower profile to ensure that water entering under the roof is drained from the pipe towards the eaves. After installing the wall profile, the “tie” and the metal tile itself, the elements of the adjacent “apron” are installed at the joints with the pipe.

Accessories

The installation of the accessories provided for in the plan is carried out strictly according to the technology specified by the manufacturer in the attached instructions for a specific product. But all installed stairs, fences, ventilation outlets, bridges and other accessories are united by a common fastening rule - through sheets of roofing material directly to the sheathing using synthetic gaskets.

• Metal tiles are measured material, the length of sheets of which reaches 7.5 m. For its temporary storage or long-term storage a flat platform is selected with wooden beams installed every 0.5 m. The same bars are used as spacers between sheets. A stack of folded sheets is covered and pressed down on top (in 2-3 places) with a weight that can prevent unwanted movement of the material from gusts of wind.
• The roofing material is supplied to the roof along two boards, like guides.
• The use of a grinder when working with metal tiles should be avoided, because when cutting, in addition to the edge in the cut area, the polymer coating is also broken (burned) in places where hot metal filings come into contact with it. The second important point is that the warranty for sheets cut by this power tool is canceled by the manufacturer.
• No seals are used under the decorative valley trim. When fixing the linings, you need to make sure that the valley itself is not damaged by the screws.
• The wall connection profile can be mounted directly on the wall plane or in a prepared groove with the obligatory sealing of the joint with sealant.
• A large overhang from the eaves can cause deformation of the edge of the metal tile. The optimal overhang is 40 mm.
• Self-tapping screws are purchased at the rate of 7-10 pcs/m2. The length of the self-tapping screws for attaching the tiles to the sheathing is 25 mm, and between them is 19 mm.
• Typically, metal tiles are attached to the sheathing in every third wave of the profile; near the gables, ridges and cornices - through the wave. The self-tapping screw is driven 1.5 cm below the stamping line.
• Working with metal tiles requires maximum care and delicacy to preserve the sprayed layer. Therefore, when working on the roof, use shoes with soft soles.

The technology for installing a roof made from a metal tile profile is not complicated. Following its points and proper maintenance of the roof in the future can remove the issue of covering the building from the agenda for 50 years.

In contact with

Choosing roofing material is not an easy task. The roof must be reliable, beautiful, durable, and, preferably, inexpensive. All these requests are met by metal roofing. It should be added to its advantages that installation is not the most difficult, which even a person without roofing experience can handle with his own hands.

Metal roofing is beautiful, reliable, durable and inexpensive

Types of metal tiles

Metal tiles are formed from sheet metal thickness 0.35-0.7 mm, on which protective and decorative compositions. It turns out to be a multi-layer cake. The base of this building material is most often steel, but there are options made of copper and aluminum. Since aluminum and copper are much more expensive than steel, products made from them have a high price. For this reason, copper or aluminum metal tiles are practically not found, but if desired, they can be delivered to order.

Both imported and domestic metal tiles are available for sale. The European version is strictly made of steel 0.5 mm thick - this is stated in the standard. Our GOST allows from 0.45 to 0.5 mm.

Except different materials bases, applied differently protective covering. First of all, there are two types of steel protection against oxidation - zinc and aluminum-zinc. The second option appeared not so long ago, but it is the one that provides better protection, although such treatment costs a little more.

There are more different compositions for the finishing coating, which, along with protection from atmospheric influences, gives the material one or another color.

Types of protective and decorative external coatings

The outer covering of metal tiles performs two functions simultaneously. It protects the base metal from corrosion and gives the material an attractive appearance. There are the following types of this coating:

1. The most common metal roofing has a glossy polyester (PE) coating - about 70% of the total number of roofs are covered with this type of material. This is because it has an average price and good characteristics. Layer thickness 25-30 microns, service life 5-10 years. This coating is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and corrosion, but is easily damaged mechanically - scratches appear even when a large amount of snow melts. Therefore, polyester metal tiles are not recommended for use in regions with heavy snowfall. In other areas, to prevent massive snowfall, it is advisable to install a snow retention system. If you cover the roof with such material, you need to be careful during installation.

   

2. Matte polyester (MPE) is obtained by adding Teflon. As a result, the film is more durable - its service life is 10-15 years, and can also be used in snowy regions. This composition is applied with a thickness of at least 35 microns. The disadvantage of tiles coated with matte polyester is the smaller range of colors (about 20 shades compared to 40 glossy).

   

3. Plastisol (PVC) is a PVC-based composition. It has a beautiful structured surface and is applied in a layer of 200 microns, making the coating resistant to damage. The disadvantage is low UV resistance, which significantly narrows the range of use. In addition, in some countries, due to the presence of polyvinyl chloride in the composition, this coating is prohibited.

   

4. Pural is a polyurethane-based coating with polymer additives. Available in glossy (PUR) and matte (MatPUR) versions. Layer thickness is 50 microns, service life is up to 30 years. This is one of the best options: resistant to mechanical damage (worse than palstizol, but better than all others), tolerates ultraviolet radiation and aggressive environments, and can be used for constructing roofs on the sea coast.

   

   Pural is one of the most durable coatings

5. Polydifluoride (PVF or PVDF) is a composition based on polyvinyl fluoride with the addition of acrylic (20%). The main advantage is the high elasticity of the coating, due to which, with a small thickness (30 microns), the film is very resistant to mechanical damage. Other advantages are a wide range of colors, resistance to fading, long term service - up to 30 years. The disadvantage is the highest price.

   

   The most expensive and durable coating is polydifluoride.

It’s clear that when building a house you don’t want to spend extra money. Probably for this reason, most developers choose the cheapest option - metal tiles coated with polyester. But this is not the best solution. Let's figure it out. The service life of metal tiles with polyester is no more than 5-10 years, the average cost is about 260 rubles/m2 with a metal thickness of 0.45 mm, and 440 rubles/m2 with a steel thickness of 0.5 mm. Even roofing material will last 10 years, the price of a square for a year will be 26 rubles and 44 rubles. Now let's take very a good option— with pural coating. With a metal thickness of 0.5 mm, the cost is from 510 rubles/m2 to 635 rubles/m2 (depending on the manufacturer). Service life - 30 years. For a year of service it will be 12-17 rubles/m2. The difference is obvious. And this does not take into account the work of re-roofing, which is also time and money.

Profile types

When laying metal tiles, its geometric dimensions and wave parameters are important - the sheathing is calculated and installed for them. Also, the height of the wave determines the degree of rigidity of the sheet - for high wind loads, a material with a high wave (more than 50 mm) is required - the hardest; under normal conditions, metal tiles with a low wave (less than 50 mm) are suitable.

The waveform can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, more rounded or with straight lines. There are quite a large number of different profiles. The table shows the geometric dimensions (usable width of the metal tile sheet, amount of overlap, wave parameters), which will be useful when calculating the quantity.

Metal roofing in 70% of cases is made from Monterrey profile. It has a round, slightly asymmetrical wave shape. There are 7 subspecies with different wave parameters.

The next most popular profile is Cascade. About 15% of metal roofing is made from it. It is formed by straight lines and has a clear geometry. It looks very interesting on roofs of complex shapes with a lot of broken lines.

This profile is used more in regions with average wind and snow loads— the wave height is small, withstands medium loads.

Another 10% of the market is occupied by Andalusia metal tiles. It is more similar than the others to the classic semicircular tile. The profile is symmetrical, with pronounced differences.

The profile is designed so that the joint is located on the wall of the wave, it is practically invisible. It gives the impression of a monolithic roofing covering.

Sheet sizes and wave parameters of Andalusia metal tiles

If we talk about color, then depending on the type of coating, there are usually from 20 to 40 shades. Choose the one you like best. Service life or other characteristics do not depend on color, although there is an opinion that dark colors burn out faster. In fact, the rate of fading depends on the quality of the coating and pigment, but not on the color.

Calculation of the amount of metal tiles

To calculate the required number of sheets of material, you first need to decide on the type of profile and the manufacturer of the metal tile - you will need the exact dimensions of the material itself, and each profile has its own. Then you need to make accurate measurements of the slopes - length, height, if any, you need to measure all the protrusions or other decorative elements that will need to be sheathed with roofing material. If the roof has a complex shape, it is better to draw a plan, put down all the dimensions and then start doing the calculations.

Number of rows

It is best to look for metal tiles not in stores or markets. It is advisable to contact the manufacturer directly. The point is not only the price - it may not differ very much, but the fact that many workshops/factories offer to cut sheets of the required sizes. The minimum sheet height is 0.7 m, the maximum is 8 m. That is, you can order the required number of sheets covering the roof slope from the ridge to the overhang (taking into account the eaves overhang).

This option is good because a metal tile roof will not have horizontal joints, which means there will be less chance of leaks. Second plus - minimal amount waste and less amount of material itself (due to the absence of horizontal overlaps, several square meters). Disadvantages: difficulties with delivery, lifting long sheets to the top, inconvenient installation.

When using sheets standard sizes, the height of the roof slope is divided by the useful length of the sheet. The resulting figure is always rounded up. The useful length is obtained after subtracting the amount of horizontal overlap from the total length - from 100 to 200 mm. The flatter the slope, the greater the overlap of the sheets is necessary so that precipitation cannot get into the under-roof space. On roofs with a slope of up to 12°, one sheet overlaps the other by at least 200 mm; with a slope of 12° to 30°, the overlap is 150-200 mm, more than 30° - 100-150 mm. The specified amount of overlap is subtracted from the total length of the sheet, this will be the “useful length”.

An example of calculating the number of rows of metal tiles on a roof. Let the length of the slope be 4.5 m, the useful length of the sheet is 2.3 m. Divide 4.5 by 2.3, we get 1.95, round to the nearest whole number - we get 2 rows. In this case, only a small part of one sheet will go to waste, but there are times when more than half is cut off. This is very unprofitable, since this piece cannot be used anywhere else.

Number of sheets in a row

Take the length of the slope and divide it by the usable width of the sheet. This parameter is specified in technical specifications to metal tiles. Most often it is 110 cm (1.1 m). We round the resulting number up to obtain the number of sheets in the row.

An example of calculating metal tile sheets in a row. Let the length of the overhang be 8 m, the useful width of the sheet 1.1 m. When dividing, we get 7.27 pieces, but round up to a larger integer and we get 8 pieces in one row. Moreover, more than 2/3 of one sheet will go to waste.

Features of hip roofs

U hip roofs slopes have a triangular or trapezoidal shape. Here it is necessary to select the length of the sheet in order to minimize the amount of waste.

The height is selected so that no more than half goes to waste. It is quite difficult to do this manually, and there is still a significant error - there will be 20-25% more waste than when calculated using programs. They are usually available from sellers and manufacturers. It is better to provide them with an accurate calculation, and first measure the parameters of the roof at home (or call a measurer), and then try to select the dimensions yourself. Then you can compare the quantity required material, calculated by you and proposed.

Determining the number of additional elements

Metal roofing requires a large number of different additional elements(additions), which form the ridge, the edge of the overhang, the sides of the slope, the passage of the pipe, the valley (the junction of two adjacent roof slopes). The more complex the shape of the roof, the more amount of additions is required. When idle gable roof Ridge elements and caps, cornice and pediment strips will be needed. That's all.

What types of additional elements are there for metal roofing and why are they needed?

Despite the wide variety of extras, they are all considered the same. Take the length of the surface on which it needs to be mounted and divide by the useful length of the element. It is usually standard and is 1.9 m (total length 2 m). The result obtained is rounded up.

What and how to attach it to

Fastening metal tiles with special screws with rubber washers. Just like the main material, they are made of galvanized steel, and the top is painted to match its coating. When installing, the self-tapping screw must be screwed in strictly perpendicular to the roof surface; tilting it is not allowed.

When fastening metal tiles, you need to monitor how tightly the fasteners adhere to the surface. You cannot tighten it too much, bending the metal, but you also cannot allow a loose fit - the connection will not be airtight.

Lathing for metal tiles

Metal tiles are a fairly rigid material, so a sparse sheathing is made underneath it, which consists of slats that are located along the roof overhang.

What material

If the metal tile roof has simple design, an inch edged board (24-25 mm thick) with a width of 100 mm is used for the sheathing. For roofs of complex shapes or in regions with heavy snow loads, it is better to use a 32 mm thick board or 50-50 mm timber. The timber is also used when there is a large distance between the rafters (more than 80 cm).

Lathing step

Installation of metal tiles on the roof has one important feature. There is the strongest place in the profile - under the step of the wave in the hollow. This is where you need to tighten the self-tapping screw. The lathing must be made so that the middle of the plank is located just under this place. This is precisely what causes difficulties: profiles have different sizes Therefore, each of them requires its own installation step for the sheathing strips. This value can be determined by measuring the existing material, but, usually, this parameter is indicated in the instructions for the metal tiles.

There are a few important points sheathing devices for metal tiles. Please note that the first plank along the overhang has a greater thickness than all the others - the height of the step is added to the selected thickness of the plank this profile. In addition, this strip is made wider than all the others - a drip edge will be attached to it, which covers the cut, protecting the wood from precipitation.

Also note that the second bar is not filled with a standard step, but with a shortened step, otherwise you will not get further into the wave. The step when installing the last plank near the ridge is also different - it is obtained after the fact, as well as the height of the plank. We remind you that there must be sufficiently large gaps in the area of ​​the ridge - and the sheathing and roofing material should not be joined. This is necessary for normal attic ventilation.

Installation procedure and features

Before covering the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for working with the material:

• First of all, you need to take care of proper storage- in ventilated stacks, laid out with bars.
• When cutting, do not use an angle grinder (grinder), but cut only with a jigsaw or metal scissors. The grinder overheats the metal, which causes the zinc to evaporate, and the material will begin to rust at the cut points.
• Start laying sheets from the lower right corner (the installation diagram for metal tile sheets is in the photo below).
• When installing, wear soft, well-fitting shoes and step only on the lower part of the wave.

Next we will talk about the device. Metal roofing comes in two versions: with a cold or insulated attic. Depending on the type chosen, the order of work changes - when arranging a warm attic, two more layers are added - insulation and a vapor barrier membrane on the room side.

Cold metal roofing

This type of roofing is suitable if the attic space is planned to be non-residential. Then all the insulation is concentrated in the ceiling, and the function of the roof is only to protect from precipitation and wind. The order of work is as follows:

Warm roof

When installing an insulated roof made of metal tiles, a thermal insulation material is added to the roofing pie, which is attached between the rafters, and a vapor barrier film, which is placed on the rafters from the attic side. Further, the entire installation process is similar.

How to attach sheets

When we cover a roof with metal tiles, we need to position the screws correctly. There are several rules that must be followed:

• Self-tapping screws are installed in the lower part of the wave, 2 cm below the step.
• The bottom row, along the overhang, is attached to each wave. Fasteners are also installed in places of horizontal and vertical joints.
• The waves between the horizontal joints are attached through one in a checkerboard pattern.

These rules are clearly shown in the diagram. In a graphical representation, some things are easier to understand.

The “Dachny Expert” portal expresses gratitude to the company “Spets.Krovlya” for its expert assistance in the preparation of this material.

Spets.Krovlya LLC is a reliable contractor for pitched roofs of any complexity. Guaranteed quality, clear deadlines and a fixed price, which is immediately stated in the contract and will not change!

Metal tiles are roofing materials in the form of profiled steel sheets coated with a polymer coating. It is used to cover roofs with an angle greater than 14 degrees.

Outwardly, it is similar to classic ceramic tiles, but surpasses it in reliability and ease of installation. In this article we looked at which is better, ?

Material stable to temperature changes and other negative climatic influences. Its main disadvantage is low sound insulation characteristics, but it can be eliminated if the work is carried out correctly.

In this article you will learn how to make a roof from metal tiles with your own hands, step by step from A to Z. If you don’t know how to choose metal tiles, then.

This stage of work should be given Special attention, since it will be on the sheathing. This design also provides a natural interior roof space.

1. Metal tile sheathing is made from wooden beam . The relative arrangement of the boards can be continuous or thinned out.
2. Most often used sparse designs, while the distance between the boards () is strictly tied to the distance between the lower depressions of the tile waves, since in these places the material has the greatest strength.
3. Distance between the first two beams on the slope side there should be approximately 70 centimeters less than the established pitch.
4. The minimum thickness and width of the board for sheathing is 25 and 100 mm respectively.
5. The width of the board for the counter-lattice can be half as large. The first board from the edge of the roof should be 15-20 mm thicker than all the others.

NOTE!

Pre-boards are calibrated one size at a time to avoid future distortions and unevenness in the location of the tiles.

Lathing step

Installation of the structure is carried out after completion . The main lathing is attached to the counter lath, which is connected to the rafter frame with self-tapping screws. At the ridge of the roof, additional support boards are laid under the metal tiles.

Calculation of metal tiles

Count the required amount of material for roof construction is done as follows (or use):

When counting the number of sheets in a row, you need to keep in mind the value overlap, which can reach 15-20 centimeters.

To ensure that there is no shortage of material, it is better to round all values ​​up.

Roof calculation

Metal roofing: waterproofing and vapor barrier

Before you begin installing metal tiles with your own hands, you should take care isolation . Protection internal spaces from liquid provided with layers of vapor barrier and waterproofing.

The waterproofing is located between the rafters and the counter-lattice and prevents moisture from entering the inside of the roofing pie. environment. The most common waterproof materials– these are polyethylene and reinforced films. They are stretched over the entire area of ​​the slope with slight sagging. It is important to ensure that the waterproofing does not overlap with the thermal insulation.

Roofing pie

Vapor barrier is a protective layer does not allow moisture to penetrate into the interior of the roof, formed in the premises. This is the lowest layer of the roofing pie; it is located under the rafters (to which it is attached) and thermal insulation, thereby ensuring its protection from condensation.

An attic roof made of metal tiles must have a high-quality vapor barrier; in cold roofs without insulation, installing a vapor barrier is not necessary.

Required tools and equipment

Covering a roof with metal tiles begins with preparing the necessary tools. To install a metal tile roof you will need:

• Screwdriver.
• Rail.
• Tin snips or other metal cutting devices, such as nibblers, Circular Saw etc.
• Construction stapler.
• Tape measure and marker.
• Components of the roof and roofing pie: tile sheets, self-tapping screws, hydro-, steam- and thermal insulation materials, beams for sheathing and rafters.

NOTE!

When working with tiles you can't use a grinder and other abrasives cutting tools, as this disrupts the structure of the sheet.

Fastening and laying metal tiles - step by step

How to cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands? Self-tapping metal tiles with a gasket made of ethylene-propylene rubber, which provides waterproofing of the fastening areas.

If tiles with hidden fastening are installed, galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer are used.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened with optimal force.

If the fastening force is insufficient, then moisture will get under the cap and cause its corrosion. If you tighten the screws too tightly, the gasket will be deformed, which will break its tightness.

1. Before covering the roof with metal tiles, you should make sure that the sheathing is symmetrical and reliable.
2. Self-tapping screws screwed into the lower deflection of the tiles, they must enter strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheathing boards.
3. When connecting two overlaps fastening is carried out in wave rises using shortened screws.
4. Installation of tiles begins from the lower left corner of the slope, subsequent sheets are laid on top previous ones.
5. Self-tapping screws screwed into each wave of tiles along the perimeter of the slope and in a checkerboard pattern in the interior areas. If a screwdriver is used for this, then its rotational effect on the material must be minimized.

Metal tiles - DIY installation + instructions

Now you know how to lay metal tiles correctly and we invite you to familiarize yourself with the most important thing - instructions for installation of metal tiles.

Installation of metal tiles - step-by-step instructions

How to properly cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands? The first step is.

It is on it that all other roofing elements will be fixed. The system is constructed from wooden beams, wherein their size exceeds the dimensions of the sheathing bars.

The most important elements of the rafters are:

• Mauerlat. This is the fulcrum of the structure.
• Rafter legs. They hold on themselves and rely on the Mauerlat.
• Racks. Strengthen the support of the rafter legs.

The rafters are fastened to the wall using so-called tavern. These are strips of metal that connect two structures with nails or screws.

Next are installed main insulating layers: insulation, vapor and waterproofing. A waterproofing film or membrane is applied to rafter system and fastened to it with a stapler. Thermal insulation is placed in cells, formed by the intersections of the rafter beams, and is fixed with the help of cords drawn crosswise in the lower plane of the rafters.

Installation of rafters

After completing the installation of protective structures, you can begin installing the sheathing, on which we will subsequently lay roof covering. She applied over rafters and waterproofing layer and is attached with self-tapping screws to these structures.

Installing metal tiles with your own hands:

1. A cornice strip is attached to the frontal board, providing roof protection from exposure to wind.
2. When performing work, the need to ensure good natural ventilation of the space is always taken into account. To do this you need to leave gaps between all layers of the roofing cake. The basis of natural ventilation is the possibility of free air circulation under the roof ridge.
3. The last step is installation of metal tiles. It must be taken into account that the sheets must protrude beyond the edges of the sheathing by 5 centimeters and aligned horizontally along the eaves line.
4. Ridge strip attached to additional two boards, which are installed at the joints of two slopes when installing the sheathing. Such measures are necessary to ensure additional resistance of an important structural element to negative influences.

metal tile laying diagram

• . They loosen the snow masses falling from the roof, making their fall relatively safe for building structures and for humans.
• Junction strips. These products frame the joints of the tiles with all important structures, such as chimneys and ventilation pipes.
• Corners and valleys. They protect everything corner structures roofs.
• Low tides. Used to redirect flows of rain and melt water.

Additional elements

• Beam spacing rafter frame should be no more 60-90 centimeters, otherwise the roof structure may sag.
• When performing work, you must wear shoes soft sole and move along the tiles, stepping into its lower deflections. This will prevent the material from being pressed through.
• The absence of contact between protective layers is important not only to ensure ventilation, but to prevent them mechanical damage during friction.
• To provide additional ventilation, you can arrange dormer windows in the attic.
• For level installation of all elongated additional elements need to pull the thread and secure it between two already installed structures.

This is what the technology for laying metal tiles on a roof looks like. This material has an approximate service life about 50 years, but without the need for repair work, operation will only take place if the installation is carried out correctly.

Useful video

Laying metal tiles with your own hands in video format: