Self-leveling polymer flooring technology. Do-it-yourself self-leveling polymer floors. Video - Do-it-yourself self-leveling polymer floors

Publication date: 04/06/2015

Self-leveling polymer floors are made from 3 different polymers. These include methyl methacrylate, epoxy resin and polyurethane. Methyl methacrylate is used in construction quite rarely, as it has a considerable price.

You can fill any polymer floor yourself, the main thing is that the correct technology is followed during the work.

Choice of polymer composition

Polyurethane floor

Such systems were originally intended exclusively for industrial premises. Polymer coatings with epoxies were mainly used for this purpose. These coatings differ:

• Moisture resistance;
• Good chemical resistance.

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Polyurethane coatings

One type is polyurethane flooring. Loading systems of this type can withstand strong mechanical and shock loads, as well as constant vibration, for a very long time.

Polymer floor with decorative decoration chips

Polymer coatings using polyurethane are mainly poured in kitchens, showers, bathrooms, and also in hallways. In the latter case, the choice with epoxies is due to the fact that the floors in the corridors are quickly erased by street shoes.

Polyurethane coatings can also be poured into living rooms. Self-leveling polyurethane floors have a lot of advantages. For example, such polymer floor coverings have a composition that contains one component, thanks to which the poured floors dry quickly.

This distinguishes polyurethane coatings from epoxy coatings. Self-leveling polyurethane floors also have disadvantages. These include an unpleasant and pungent odor that appears during pouring. Over time, after drying, this “aroma” disappears.

Polyurethane floors are in the form of a liquid suspension, which is somewhat reminiscent of oil-based dyes. Such self-leveling floor coverings harden at temperatures ranging from plus fifteen degrees Celsius.

The average consumption of the substance is three hundred grams per square meter surface area. It all depends on the base that is being improved. Complete hardening time ranges from twelve to twenty-four hours.

If necessary, the polyurethane mixture can be diluted and made two-component. In this case, the resulting suspension can be used only for forty minutes after preparation.

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Epoxy coatings

Epoxy resin floors are a mixture of two organic components. The composition itself is sold dry in briquettes of at least twenty kilograms. The color of the mixture is gray. This substance is quite suitable for creating the main coating layer.

The mixture includes a hardener and the polymer itself. Before diluting the dry mixture, you must first thoroughly mix the polymer so that its particles are distributed as evenly as possible.

Paint shoe for walking on the self-leveling layer

After this, a hardener is added to the powder and everything is mixed for at least three minutes.

The resulting suspension can be used within the next forty-five minutes after preparation. During this period of time, it is necessary to distribute the composition over the floor covering and roll over its surface with a roller with needles. P The last procedure is necessary to remove air particles from the composition.

The production technology should be such that the average consumption of the polymer substance per square meter is equal to one and a half kilograms. The resulting self-leveling floors set within one or two days.

Epoxy polymer floors dry at temperatures ranging from fifteen degrees Celsius. Some mixtures can harden at a temperature of five degrees Celsius. Such floors should only be poured in a well-ventilated area, and safety glasses and gloves should be used for this work.

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Technology of pouring polymer floor coverings

In order to pour polymer floors of any type, you must first prepare work surface. It should be smooth and clean. The quality of the floors in the future directly depends on the quality of the foundation.

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Preparing the wooden base

The basis can be not only concrete surface, but also a wooden surface. The main thing is that the base meets certain requirements. First of all, the wood should have a moisture content of no more than ten percent.

There should be no remnants of old coatings, oil or grease stains on its surface. The floor must be absolutely clean. There shouldn't even be any dust on it, so it's better to vacuum it first.

Before pouring wooden surface it needs to be sanded. The resulting rough structure will help the polymer to better grip the base.

In this case, you won't even need a primer. It is also important that wooden base did not have strong depreciation. Otherwise, poured floors may crack due to constant foot traffic.

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Preparing a ceramic tile base

Pouring a polymer floor

As a base for pouring polymer floors, a coating made of ceramic tiles. This surface will also need to be properly prepared. First, tile floors are tested for strength.

Falling tiles are removed and the resulting voids are filled concrete mortar. After this, the resulting surface is washed and grease stains are removed from it.

A regular solvent will work well for this type of work. Next, a priming liquid is applied to a clean base. It should increase the adhesion force of the polymer coating to the tile.

Planning independent arrangement polymer floor, you need to remember that the work must be done as efficiently as possible so that the coating lasts as long as possible. The topic of today's article is the technology of pouring polymer floors; the procedure is complex and labor-intensive.

Self-leveling polymer flooring is the most common type of polyurethane and epoxy coatings, characterized by enhanced decorative properties.

The thickness of the fill in this case ranges between 2.5 mm and 5 mm. It is not advisable to make the layer thicker, since this will significantly increase costs, but the functional and decorative parameters of the floor will remain the same. Areas of application: residential and public buildings.

Other advantages of polymer floors include:

• wear resistance;
• dustlessness;
• immunity to aggressive chemical compounds;
• wide range of colors - the coating can be either colored or transparent;
• no odor during installation;
• possibility of applying 3D drawings.

Note! The quasi-three-dimensional image is made possible thanks to the decorative polyurethane component. In such cases, the floor is poured in two stages - first the polymer mixture is poured, then, after it dries, the finishing coating is applied (more on this at the end of the article).

Due to their high aesthetic level, polymer floors allow you to create complete compositions using marble chips or colored sand. The filling procedure has its own nuances; let’s consider them in more detail.

Stage 1. Preparation

The installation of a self-leveling polymer floor begins with preparatory work.

Wooden base

Step 1. First, the room is cleared of debris and dust, furniture is removed, and decorative elements (such as baseboards, cornices) are dismantled.

Step 2. Then everything necessary for work is prepared. You can use a vacuum cleaner to remove small debris, and to remove glue and remnants of the old coating - grinding machine. By the way, the reliability and durability of the future floor largely depends on the quality of cleaning.

Step 3. What follows preliminary preparation grounds. In this case, it is very important what material was used for the previous coating, because if it is, for example, wood, then the base should be pre-sanded, all cracks should be filled with putty, treated with a degreasing compound - all these measures will improve the adhesion of the polymer to wooden planks. For degreasing, you can use gasoline, acetone or any other organic solvent.

If there are no difficulties in disposing of solvent residues, a surfactant or KM alkali solution can be added. Although today you can buy special means for degreasing wood (for example, Mellerud), which at the same time protect the surface from fungal formation.

Step 4. Floor moisture is assessed using a moisture meter. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise the polymer fill will be of poor quality.

A concrete floor is prepared for pouring in a slightly different way.

Step 1. The moisture content of the concrete is assessed; if it is above 4%, then the surface is dried. To determine humidity (in the absence of a moisture meter), you can use one old method: a rubber mat is placed on the floor and pressed firmly, and if the surface under it has not changed color after 24 hours, then the base is ready for pouring.

Moisture meter for concrete floor

Step 2. The compressive strength of the floor is also checked (the norm is 20 MPa and above). To do this, a chisel mounted perpendicular to the surface is struck with a hammer. If the concrete did not crumble, and the chisel left barely noticeable marks, then the strength of the base is within acceptable limits.

Step 3. Check for waterproofing. If it is not there, then further work on creating a self-leveling floor is impossible, because the concrete will begin to flake off, which is especially important in the bathroom or kitchen.

Moreover, if the insulation is of poor quality, moisture will rise through the capillaries into concrete covering to the polymer layer and sooner or later will destroy it.

Note! Otherwise, the preparatory measures for a concrete base are practically no different from those for a wooden base.

If a polymer floor is to be poured onto a tile, its voids are first checked (it may appear after the tile adhesive has dried). All components that have come loose from the surface must be removed, and the resulting voids must be filled with putty.

After this, the surface is degreased.

Stage 2. Level difference

This concept is used to denote the difference in height between the highest and lowest points of the floor surface. If the difference is 0.5-2.5 cm, then before applying the primer the floor is filled with a mounting leveling mixture (sand and polymer self-leveling mixture in a ratio of 1:2). A trowel is used to apply the mixture.

If the difference exceeds 2.5 cm, then the surface will need to be filled with a corrective mixture (sand and cement in a ratio of 2:1).

Note! In both cases, instead of building mixtures, you can use a special leveling solution designed for this thickness.

Stage 3. Materials and tools

After preparing the surface, you need to take care of everything necessary. To work you will need:

• polymer leveling mixture;

  

• deep penetration primer mixture;

  

• putty knife;
• building level;
• squeegee;

  

• electric drill with mixer attachment m;
• needle roller;

  

• container for preparing the solution.

Stage 4. Primer

It is better to use a roller to apply the primer layer. If the surface is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers and after each of them a short pause is made to allow the mixture to dry.

Here are the main functions of priming:

• improved spreading of the polymer composition;
• improved adhesion to the base;
• preventing the appearance of air bubbles.

If the floor will be poured in several layers, then the primer must be applied before each of them.

Note! In a room with a high level of humidity, the primer layer is covered with a waterproof compound.

You also need to remember that priming compounds are toxic, so you should take care of high-quality ventilation of the room in advance. Moreover, the temperature must not be allowed to drop - if it drops below +15ᵒC, the adhesion efficiency of the primer will noticeably deteriorate.

A minimum of 24 hours is required for the primed surface to dry completely.

Stage 5. Thermal compensation

One of the most important elements of a poured floor is a thermal expansion joint, which should be applied along the entire perimeter of the room. For this purpose they take wooden slats(required from hardwood). These seams will prevent the floor from deforming during significant temperature changes.

Stage 6. Preparation of the solution

The preparation of the solution must be taken very seriously, since poor quality of pouring will hopelessly ruin the polymer coating. It is typical that after preparation the solution must be poured out as quickly as possible, because it hardens within a few minutes.

Note! The humidity in the room when pouring should be no more than 70%, otherwise moisture will condense on the surface.

All components are poured into the container in the ratio specified in the instructions for the polymer mixture. To avoid heating the solution too quickly, the container can be placed in another bigger size filled with cold water.

All components are mixed with an electric drill operating at low speeds (no more than 400 rpm) until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To determine the readiness of the solution, you can use one simple method:

• A small ring is cut out of a deodorant cap and placed on flat surface(for example, a piece of sheet steel);
• the ring is filled with solution and raised;
• When the solution spreads evenly into a spot with a diameter of 3 cm, you can start pouring.

Note! If the mixture turns out to be too thick, then it will not be able to level out properly, and if it is too liquid, then you will need to add a little more dry polymer.

Stage 7. Pouring the polymer floor

Do-it-yourself polymer floors are poured in the same way as conventional self-leveling floors.

Step 1. The first portion of the solution is poured along the wall farthest from the entrance with a strip 45 cm wide. Then, for better distribution, the solution is leveled with a spatula.

Note! The entire room is flooded at once, otherwise there will be differences.

Step 2. After leveling, the surface is rolled with a needle roller - this is necessary to remove air.

Step 3. After this, a new strip of solution is poured and leveled. The procedure is repeated until the entire room is flooded.

Step 4. After 48 hours of pouring, a polyurethane coating is applied. During the entire drying period, the floor must be protected from the sun, drafts and temperature fluctuations.

Note! If a “warm floor” is used to heat the room, then the first start of heating can be carried out only seven days after pouring. In this case, you need to start with room temperature, gradually increasing it - by about 2-3ᵒC per day.

Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself poured floor.

There are two ways to create a decorative layer:

• place the finished image in advance;
• make a drawing on the coating.

In the first case you will need acrylic paints resistant to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It's more simple and cheap way, because today you can purchase the image you like as a printout on a plotter (in this case, banner fabric is used as the basis). During installation, the fabric is covered with a thermally insulating vinyl film to increase its service life.

The dimensions of the image should exceed the dimensions of the room, because it is always easier to cut the fabric than to re-glue it.

Video -

The technology for creating a 3D image is as follows.

Step 1. First, the base is thoroughly primed. For this, the same leveling solution is used, but diluted with water just enough so that its concentration is halved. It will take a day for the primer layer to polymerize.

Step 2. The image is pasted onto the primer and rolled with a dry, clean roller. It is typical that you can only move on the floor in special studded shoes.

Step 3. A transparent polymer layer 4-5 mm thick is applied. This happens in the same way as described above. After half an hour, the fill dries and can be treated with clear varnish.

The complete readiness of the polymer floor for use is determined by the drying of the varnish.

Video - Pouring polymer floors

The floor is the most important component of any room, which must meet a number of requirements. Each of us, when thinking about flooring, wants it to be durable, practical, easy to maintain, resistant to various kinds influences. Polymer floors are a popular trend of our time, which in addition to listed properties has many additional advantages.

Many people have probably heard the phrase “self-leveling floor” or “3d floor”, but not everyone knows what it is. What is the installation technology, how environmentally friendly is such a coating, is it possible to carry out the work yourself, polymer floors: price - this is not a complete list of issues that concern those who have decided to install the floor according to the latest progress.

Polymer floors as part of the interior

Polymer self-leveling floors: pros and cons

There is a widespread belief among ordinary people that polymer materials are ideal as floor coverings. This is not entirely true: self-leveling flooring has both advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages

• elasticity, high strength;
• absolute resistance to chemicals and water;
• fire safety;
• ease of installation, possibility of self-installation;
• dirt- and dust-repellent properties;
• low maintenance requirements;
• long service life;
• despite the smooth surface, 3d polymer floors are anti-slip;
• numerous variations of execution.

It is important!
Self-leveling floors in an apartment can imitate tiles, pebbles, luxurious parquet, a natural stone or water surface. Everything will depend solely on your preferences.

Flaws

• A high-quality self-leveling polymer floor, the price of which can go off scale, will require significant financial investments, but the result obtained is really worth it. If you decide to save money and buy cheap materials, you risk losing the beauty of your floor quite quickly - under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, the floor will quickly turn yellow and irrevocably lose its original appearance;
• To install a self-leveling floor, you need a perfectly flat and very solid foundation;
• add another if desired flooring Difficulties may arise due to the high adhesive properties. Dismantling a 3D floor is hardly possible: you will have to lay tiles or laminate on top of the existing coating;
• When laying decorative floors, they are very sensitive to the humidity of the base: this indicator should not exceed 4%. Temperature changes are no less significant - the amplitude of fluctuations should be no more than 2 degrees.

Types and scope of application of self-leveling floors

The classification of polymer floors is quite extensive and can be carried out according to several criteria. So, depending on the materials used, they are distinguished:

There are different thicknesses of polymer floors:

• high strength. Designed for installation in industrial premises, such floors can withstand any load.

It is important!
High-strength floors are the most reliable; their thickness can reach 6 mm.

• floors of medium thickness (1.5-3 mm);
• thin floor coverings are used in areas where the floor will not experience significant physical stress, for example, in an apartment. The layer thickness usually does not exceed 1.5 mm;
• dust-removing coatings are a thin film applied over a concrete base, which serves as protection against dirt and dust;
• painting floors. In this case, the polymer is applied to give the desired shade. Layer thickness - 0.4 mm.

But the classification does not end there. Depending on the filler contained, the polymer floor covering can have a smooth or rough surface, textured, self-leveling (contains mineral particles), highly filled (includes large particles), and combined.

The applied mixtures may consist of one or more components. One-component ones are instantly ready for application and contain only the base. Two-component ones consist of a base and a hardener, which should be mixed before starting work. Three-component ones include, in addition to the base and hardener, various additives.

Scope of application of self-leveling floors

Polyurethane compounds are used in various areas of construction:
1. Domestic construction (bathrooms, swimming pools, kitchens, toilets).
2. Industrial workshops (with the exception of “hot” production);
3. Food industry.
4. Exhibition, sales halls, parking lots, parking lots, terminals, warehouses.
5. Industrial freezers, refrigerators.

For sports facilities, polyurethane rubber floors are used, applied using the self-leveling method in 2 layers. The thickness of the bottom layer is 5-13 mm, the top layer is 2 mm.

It is important!
Gym floors are often additionally coated with crumb rubber to add roughness.

You should know that they are not as durable as polyurethane ones, so it is not recommended to install them in places where the floor experiences heavy loads.

Do-it-yourself polymer floors: the initial stage

First you need to decide on the type of self-leveling coating. The choice will depend on several points:

• type and quality of the base;
• purpose of the premises;
• mechanical load forces on the floor;
• necessity decorative elements;
• desires for additional properties (anti-static, anti-slip, etc.);
• financial freedom.

Required Tools

To install a self-leveling floor you will need the following:

• a container with a capacity of at least 20 liters for preparing the solution;
• low-speed drill with electric beater. Please note that the nozzle should be slightly longer than the depth of the mixing container;
• a regular spatula for distributing the mixture in hard-to-reach places;
• squeegee spatula for leveling the surface;
• needle (aeration) roller to remove air bubbles;
• soles with spikes - “paint shoes”, to easily move on a freshly poured floor;
• solvent for cleaning instruments.

In order to calculate the consumption of materials, it is necessary to know the thickness and density of the coating. Floors can be made with or without quartz sand.
1. No filler. The calculation is simple: for 1 m2 of coating you will need 1 liter of solution (with a required thickness of 1 mm). We multiply the resulting figure by the density, which is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

It is important!
Most often, the density of polyurethane self-leveling floors is 1.25-1.40 kg/l, but some manufacturers add heavy aggregates to the composition (to reduce the cost). Then the density can reach 1.70 kg/l.

2. With filler, the consumption of 3d floors is reduced by 2 times, while maintaining the same appearance, and mechanical and physical characteristics.

The quality and appearance of a self-leveling floor largely depends on compliance with its manufacturing technology. The first stage is preparing the base for the future polymer floor.

Preparing the base

• We remove furniture and unnecessary objects from the room, dismantle baseboards and old coverings. The old screed should be removed, especially if it shows signs of wear;
• Using an industrial vacuum cleaner, we clean the base from dust and construction debris;
• we expand the detected cracks and seal them with epoxy mixture;
• for the old concrete base we arrange a screed from leveling solutions;
• the porous base must be strengthened with penetrating impregnation - sealing, which covers the pores and eliminates the occurrence of voids in the thickness of the poured floor.

Floor primer

After the screed or impregnation has dried, we proceed to priming. We use a one-component primer, for example, “Primer 1101”. This composition, penetrating deeply into the thickness of the base, ensures excellent adhesion of concrete to the polymer.

It is important!
To obtain the best adhesion, fine quartz sand is added to the primer, forming a rough surface for fixing the polyurethane component.

It is more convenient to apply the primer composition with a short-haired roller. If the area of ​​the room is small, a flat one is quite suitable for application. paint brush. The primer is applied in 2 stages. The second layer - after the final polymerization of the first.

Weak substrates must be primed using the combination method. First we apply a thick primer (“Primer 1101”), and then a more viscous one, for example, “Primer 2005”. Distribute the contents evenly across the floor. We begin laying polymer floors 4 hours after priming.

The polymer components are mixed in a clean container at a temperature of 20 degrees. The colored opaque solution is mixed in the original container, then a transparent component is added to it in small portions. To obtain a homogeneous composition, mix using a drill with a special attachment.

Please note that the prepared material must be used immediately after mixing, because polymerization occurs very quickly. Pour the solution onto the base and level it using the rule, the layer should be uniform. Remove air bubbles with a needle roller. To avoid damaging the floor, move on it only with paint shoes. Rolling with a roller is carried out for 30 minutes continuously, until the first signs of thickening.

It is important!
If you are laying decorative 3D floors with a pattern, then a pattern or decorative elements (shells, mosaics, stones, etc.) are applied on top of the base layer of polyurethane, which are secured with a layer of transparent high-strength polyurethane.

Arrangement of expansion joints

To avoid deformation of the polymer floor, it is necessary to install expansion joints. They are cut to a thickness of at least a third of the polymer coating, dusted with an industrial vacuum cleaner and sealed to prevent moisture and dust from entering. You can use emphymastic PU-40 for this.

Howl and that's it! The task called do-it-yourself polymer self-leveling floor has been completed! Depending on the temperature in the room, the floor is ready for foot traffic in a day or two, but the full workload should be given only after a week.

Floor coverings based on various polymers are widely used in all areas of industrial and civil engineering. The technology for constructing polymer floors, shown in the photo, clearly demonstrates how in a short period of time you can obtain a high-quality wear-resistant coating for any floor from small room before production premises significant sizes.

Types of polymer floors

In the manufacture of floor coverings, three types of polymers are most often used, which make it possible to obtain excellent performance characteristics of the coating at a relatively low cost:

• Polyurethane coatings based on liquid polyurethane mass, which at a temperature of 15 o C polymerizes to a solid state and is able to withstand strong shock and vibration loads;
• Epoxy compositions with various plasticizing additives that have high strength, abrasion resistance and chemical inertness;
• Methyl methacrylate compositions that can be used to cover open areas and rooms with negative temperatures.

How to arrange polymer floors for various purposes

Initially, polymer floors were intended mainly for industrial premises, retail facilities and entertainment complexes. The application of a polymer floor made it possible to obtain a high-quality seamless coating over large areas, which was simply impossible when using other technologies. Polymer self-leveling floors made from various compositions differ only in the presence or absence of some specific properties, and the pouring technology does not differ significantly.

Before making a polymer floor, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate equipment and materials that will allow a high-quality installation of a floor system of the selected thickness and required properties. It is a system, because a polymer coating is not only a thin layer of polymer poured onto an unprepared base, but also specialized repair and primer compounds that improve the mutual penetration of materials, increasing the adhesion and appearance of the finished coating.

Preparation

The technology for applying polymer floors implies high-quality preparation of the concrete base, although self-leveling floors can also be applied to wood coverings, which in modern construction quite rare. The manufacture of any floor must begin with measurements. If the floor level differs from the required level by more than 10 mm, it is advisable to fill cement screed By concrete base to avoid overconsumption of rather expensive polymer.

Reference: The base for a polymer floor is made in accordance with SNiP 2.0.13–88 “Floors”, SNiP 3.04.01–87 “Insulating and finishing coatings", where all the requirements for this type of coating are indicated. After the poured base has gained the necessary strength, usually 28 days, you can begin treating the surface with a special primer included in the polymer flooring system. It is better to use compositions recommended by the manufacturer, as those that have passed the necessary tests and are certified for a specific type of polymer. Once all the requirements for the base have been met, you can begin applying polymer coatings to the floor.

Technology

Modern technology Pouring polymer floors requires highly qualified workers, since the setting time of the composition is quite limited, and for some compositions it takes no more than 4-5 hours to completely polymerize. The most common polymer compositions lose mobility after 6 hours, and complete polymerization occurs in a period of time from 12 to 24 hours.

In order to receive high-quality coating It is necessary to have time to apply and level the coating about an hour before the composition loses its mobility in order to give time for the remaining air bubbles to escape. Pouring a polymer floor, the construction technology of which implies the presence of an additional decorative layer, differs in that the application finishing coating It is produced after polymerization of the base and all decorative elements, be it patterns, sparkles or inclusions of minerals, are located between the layers of polymer, causing the volume of the resulting pattern.

After the primer has dried, which takes about a day, polymer floors can be made using self-leveling technology, when the mixture prepared in the required quantity is evenly poured over the floor surface, starting from the corner of the room farthest from the exit. The mixture is prepared in exactly the required quantity to avoid pauses when pouring the floor and to obtain a uniform polymer coating. The technology of polymer flooring is based on the fluidity of the prepared mixture, which itself should cover the floor with an even layer required thickness, however, one should not rely on the declared fluidity of the material.

To have time to arrange the floor before the mixture hardens, you must proceed as follows:

• Pour a small amount of the mixture, distributing it in the form of puddles or stripes on a small floor surface;
• Using a special squeegee with an adjustable coating height, we evenly distribute the mixture over the floor surface;
• Add required amount polymer to new areas of the floor;
• Using a squeegee, we stretch the polymer until it comes into contact with the previous part of the coating;
• We completely fill the polymer floors and roll the surface with a special needle roller, which helps get rid of air bubbles and additionally levels the poured polymer.

All work on polymer floors is performed on special needle soles, which ensure free movement over the spilled mixture without damaging the coating.

3D coating

What if the polymer coating is a finishing coating and is also being installed in a public space? How to make polymer floors that provide for the installation of additional decorative elements or three-dimensional drawings or photographs? In this case, special attention must be paid to preparing the base for the future floor. More often than not, a simple, even high-quality screed will not suffice here. The 3D polymer floors shown in the video are especially critical to the base. When installing 3D polymer floors, it is not enough to comply with all SNiPs and the recommendations of the mixture manufacturer. This requires extreme care in applying the polymer and extreme caution when handling the tool.

How are polymer floors with decorative compositions or patterns made? Having prepared the base, before pouring the main layer of polymer, you must carefully, without folds or bubbles, stick on the pattern applied to any type of roll materials. After the glue has completely dried, pour the finishing layer of polymer. If the design is applied with paints, then the surface must be primed with transparent primers before applying the polymer. If necessary, to give additional volume and deep shine, the surface can be coated with special protective varnishes.

In the process of pouring a polymer floor, the correct technology must be followed. The technology for installing self-leveling floors is considered very complex, but it is through certain actions that you can achieve an excellent result in the form of an excellent coating that can last for many years. The floor is regularly exposed to mechanical stress, and therefore care must be taken to ensure that it is of the highest quality, durable and wear-resistant.

Polymer floors: advantages of device technology

Before arranging a self-leveling floor with your own hands, you first need to familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages of this technology, so as not to be disappointed later and not get a negative effect.

Self-leveling floors have both pros and cons:

• Elasticity;
• Strength;
• Full resistance to chemicals;
• Fire safety;
• Ease of installation;
• The presence of dirt-repellent properties;
• Moisture resistance;
• Possibility to carry out installation without the help of specialists;
• No special care required;
• Smooth surface;
• Anti-slip coating;
• There are a huge variety of varieties, so you can choose the most creative design.

Polymer flooring has many advantages, one of which is long term operation, which is not unimportant for this technology

As for the disadvantages, self-leveling floors, against the backdrop of positive aspects, have many negative ones, but all of them are covered by the fact that the floor will last for many years and will be able to pay for itself more than once. When installing a self-leveling floor, you cannot skimp on materials, as this will affect the aesthetics of the room, as well as the strength, quality and service life.

Poor quality floors turn yellow very quickly.

To equip a high-quality floor, you must first prepare a solid base. Dismantling a self-leveling floor is not very easy, and the use of powerful special equipment will be required. If it is necessary to change the floor covering, it is best to lay the sheets on a self-leveling floor, which will reduce the height of the walls.

Related article: How to decorate a living room and create decor with your own hands?

How a self-leveling floor is made using technology

To make a self-leveling floor, you will need to become familiar not only with the technology, but also with its variety. It is worth noting that this coating has far from a simple classification. To be more precise, by what materials are used to make the floor.

Materials:

1. Epoxy is particularly durable, which is why it is used more often than other coatings.
2. Epoxy flooring with coins and polyurethane coating has a long service life and increased durability.
3. A floor with a methyl methacrylate base cures quickly and is very durable. It is used mainly for industrial premises.
4. An industrial floor made of urea, which is formed by spraying, and for its installation you can not stop the work process.

Polyester solution is considered the cheapest and low-quality type of polymer floor; the service life of such a coating will be very short

Polymer floors can be of different thicknesses. High-strength floor, up to 6 mm thick, designed for indoor installation industrial production. Such coatings can withstand any type of load. Floors with an average thickness are 1.5-3 mm.

Thin flooring, the thickness of which does not exceed 1.5 mm, is used in rooms with minimal traffic.

The dust control coating can have a minimum thickness of 0.4 mm and is used to protect any concrete floor from dust and dirt. In some cases, such coatings are used to give the floor a certain shade.

Scope of application of Praspan and other types of polymer floors

Polyurethane-based floors can be used in a wide variety of construction areas - in industrial construction of workshops, Food Industry, in the arrangement of an exhibition, retail or parking hall, in the construction of freezers and refrigerators, including for sports fields.

Related article: Ceramic tile cutting

Polymer coating "Praspan" has high strength and excellent wear resistance

In domestic construction it is used in the arrangement of:

• Bathroom;
• Swimming pool;
• Kitchens and toilets.

As a rule, for arranging floors in sports halls, the thickness of the bottom layer is 15 mm and the top layer is 2 mm, and an epoxy base is used. In addition, the floor in the gym must have rubber crumb, which creates a rough coating with an anti-slip effect. It is important to remember that epoxy flooring is not as durable as polyurethane and they should not be installed in areas where the floor is subject to strong mechanical stress.

Correct application of polymer floors

Before applying the polymer to the floor, you need to select a certain type of coating. As a rule, floors are selected according to certain criteria. It is necessary to take into account the quality of the old foundation. Be sure to pay attention to the strength of the expected mechanical load. Will it be necessary decorative coating. What properties should the future floor have, for example, antistatic, anti-slip, and the like.

To install a self-leveling floor, you will need to prepare all the necessary tools:

1. A container with a volume of at least 20 liters in which the solution will be prepared.
2. Low speed drill and electric whisk. The nozzle must be selected with a length greater than the depth of the container.
3. A spatula is used to distribute the mixture into hard-to-reach places.
4. Squeegee spatula to level the surface.
5. Use a needle roller to remove bubbles.
6. Spiked soles or paint shoes for easy movement on freshly poured surfaces.
7. Solvent.

Mixing of polymer components is carried out at a temperature of + 20 ᵒС

The dilution of the colored solution must be carried out in the container from the factory. Next, you need to gradually add a clear solution to them in small portions. To obtain a homogeneous composition, a special drill and a specific attachment are used.

It is worth considering the point that the material must be laid out on the floor immediately after mixing so that it does not begin to dry out, which will worsen its performance properties.

In order to prevent the formation of floor deformation in the future, you will need to first make an expansion joint. The seams are cut into a third of the coating, and dust must also be removed using a special industrial vacuum cleaner. Next, sealing must be carried out to prevent the penetration of moisture and dust into them. Emphymastics are perfect.