Manufacturers offer wide choose plumbing Each model has its own and imposes certain requirements for the installation procedure. Installing a toilet yourself is possible, but only if you follow the manufacturer's recommendations. We invite you to familiarize yourself with existing species, the order and features of the work, so that self-installation was carried out in accordance with regulatory requirements.
In order to correctly place the key ones, you should prepare a drawing to scale on which the plumbing fixtures will be located taking into account sanitary and hygienic standards. You can create a comfortable layout by adhering to the following recommendations:
- The area in front of the toilet must be at least 60 cm long;
- A free space of at least 25 cm wide should be provided on the sides of the toilet;
- The area in front of the sink should not be narrower than 70 cm;
- The bidet and toilet should be fixed at a distance of at least 35 cm;
- It should be fixed at a height of 60÷80 cm above the floor surface, and - 95 cm.
The recommendations given are relevant for, for which it is enough to follow standard norms, principles of practicality and comfort. IN apartment buildings The placement of plumbing fixtures is regulated by SNiP, which are developed taking into account the safe operation of communications. When planning to do the installation yourself, you should definitely familiarize yourself with these standards.
Basics of choosing the right toilet for your home
When choosing a suitable model, you should take into account the features. Noteworthy:
- The area of the room, which affects the dimensions of the purchased plumbing fixtures;
- Availability, geometric parameters and location of external. It should be taken into account how far it will be located from the intended installation location of the toilet cistern;
- Location of the sewer pipe;
- Release angle. The best option is the installation of a model with an oblique outlet. If the measurement shows a slight coincidence, you should purchase a special adapter—a drain corrugation—along with the plumbing fixtures.
Manufacturers offer plumbing fixtures of various configurations, each with its own mounting characteristics. The division can be made into floor-mounted and wall-mounted models. To install the latter you need less space, and they have a more attractive appearance. This is a suitable option for. Floor-standing models are more reliable and practical.
- hammer;
- drill (perforator);
- yardstick;
- marker for marking;
- adjustable wrench or set;
- pliers;
- screwdriver.
It is also worth preparing:
- FUM tape;
- flexible hose;
- corrugation;
- silicone sealant with a gun.
Removing an old toilet
When dismantling, you should follow the instructions in accordance with which the installation of once new plumbing was previously carried out. Do-it-yourself toilet replacement begins with the following work:
- shut off the water supply inside the drain tank;
- drain the water inside the tank;
- unscrew the tank fasteners. For large thickness lime deposits or if there is rust, use a screwdriver to fix the bolt head and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench;
- Having removed the barrel of the tank, unscrew the fasteners securing the product;
- disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. If cement coating was previously used during installation, use a chisel to chip off the cement;
- Drain the remaining water from the toilet and set it aside.
Advice! After dismantling, the hole in the sewer pipe should be closed with a fabric plug to prevent it from clogging.
Preparing a new toilet for installation
Having decided to do the installation yourself, you should figure out how to assemble the toilet. Any model includes two components: a bowl and a drain tank. At the preparation stage, these parts should be connected to each other using the fasteners included in the delivery kit.
First, assemble the drain tank. To do this, a drain mechanism and a float are installed. As a rule, installing the drain mechanism is not difficult, since it is initially supplied assembled. It is inserted into a special mounting hole at the bottom and secured with a plastic nut, onto which a rubber seal is carefully placed. The tank is secured to the toilet using metal pins and nuts.
Attention! Rubber seals should be used at all connections.
A video of assembling a toilet with your own hands will allow you to better understand the sequence of work:
How to install a regular toilet with your own hands?
After the plumbing has been assembled, it is worth clarifying how to install the toilet with your own hands. The work can be performed in the following sequence:
| Photo | Description of work |
 | We mark and drill mounting holes in the floor. |
 | We remove the accumulated dirt and dust. |
 | We hammer plastic dowels into the prepared holes. |
 | We install the toilet at the place of future use and fix its spatial position with bolts. |
If you haven’t yet figured out how to do the installation yourself, a toilet installation video will help you learn all the main steps:
Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern
Models with hidden tanks allow you to use the available space more rationally. They are easy to care for and look stylish. Installation of a built-in toilet can be done in different ways. We invite you to familiarize yourself accessible ways and features of the work.
Installation of a wall-hung toilet with installation
First, you need to decide on the model of plumbing fixtures. Its geometric parameters will affect the requirements for the mounted system. Installation of the pendant can be performed in the following sequence:
| Photo | Description of work |
 | The height of the frame structure is adjustable. |
 | Installation of the toilet installation in a metal profile 50 mm wide and screwing it to the floor through special mounting holes. |
 | Mounted frame system to which it will be attached. |
 | Finishing material is attached. |
 | On seat Silicone sealant is applied. |
 | The fittings included in the delivery kit are inserted into the mounting holes. |
 | The toilet is hung and fixed using the fasteners included in the delivery kit. |
 | The water connection is made in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. |
Related article:
If you know the current level, it will be easier to check the value of different sales offers. The information from this article will be useful when performing installation operations with your own hands and for monitoring the actions of professional teams. In particular, they will help to correctly negotiate when determining the cost of performers’ services.
Installation of floor models
Instead of mounted model You can install a floor-mounted one with a hidden tank. A large assortment allows you to choose the right option for a toilet in any style.
The technology in this case includes the following steps:
| Photo | Description of work |
 | A niche is being prepared in which the tank will be installed. |
 | Do-it-yourself toilet installation inside a niche and fixing it. |
 | Performed final finishing walls, and plumbing fixtures are installed in a designated place. |
The main types of fastening the toilet to the floor
Fastening to the floor can be done in different ways:
- On, installed in the screed. The hardware is placed in places corresponding to the places where the floor pan is attached, and then the screed is poured. Enough difficult option, which can be difficult to implement with your own hands without the help of specialists. Insufficient length of anchors may make it difficult to install the nut after installing the toilet;
- On a wooden base, the geometric parameters of which must correspond to the dimensions of the installed plumbing fixtures. Nails are first driven into the board, laid on the floor with nails down, and screed is poured. During the installation process, the toilet is “seated” on epoxy glue and screwed to wooden base ordinary screws;
- On the dowels. This is how a toilet is most often installed on a tiled floor. After installing the product at the site of future use, the mounting holes are marked. They should be deep enough to hold the bowl in place. To ensure secure fastening, the bowl can be installed with epoxy resin and a certain amount of sealant added to the mounting holes.
Advice! To prevent the toilet from cracking during installation, gaskets should be used during installation.
The main types of fastening the toilet to the wall
Depending on the design features specific model You can install a toilet yourself using:
- Frame structure, which is a rigid frame attached to the wall and floor. The tank and pipes can be located behind a false wall;
- Block system. A more affordable and compact option that involves installation exclusively on a permanent wall. Installation is carried out in a specially prepared niche, which is then laid with bricks or blocks.
Main types of connecting a toilet to a sewer system
Various adapters are used to connect the system to the sewer. Each type has its own distinctive features. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main varieties in order to have an idea of possible options.
Fan pipe or plastic pipe
If you decide to use an adapter, you need to know exactly the characteristics of the model that you plan to install yourself. When choosing suitable option Special attention attention should be paid to the form of the toilet release.
Products with an oblique outlet are mounted in the floor, with a vertical outlet - in the wall, placing the pipe at a right angle. With an oblique outlet, it is permissible to install a “wall”, placing the connecting pipe under acute angle. When replacing plumbing fixtures, you should purchase a model with a similar release, otherwise the use of adapters becomes impossible.
Attention! When using a plastic outlet or fan pipe, changing the geometric shape of the product is unacceptable.
Eccentric
When using an eccentric collar, according to experts, it is not necessary to ensure the tightness of the connection using sealant. At correct location Using special rubber seals, you can achieve a reliable and tight fit of the mating elements. If the pipes are cast from cast iron, it is still worth using a sealant.
Corrugation
Corrugated pipe (corrugation) is used when other materials cannot cope with the task. How to install corrugation on a toilet? After fixing the system, work is performed in the following sequence:
- One end of the corrugation is placed in the sewer hole. The joint must be lubricated with silicone sealant;
- The second end is put on the toilet outlet;
- Check the tightness of the connection.
Connecting the bathroom to the sewer is done in three ways. Each of them has its own characteristics. We suggest you find out how you can connect a toilet to a sewer and choose the most suitable option.
Bathroom with vertical outlet
Models with vertical release are especially popular in European countries. The design of such plumbing products involves the presence of a siphon located in the bowl and an outlet pipe, which is directed downward during installation. This design is universal, and toilets with vertical outlet can be installed at any angle to the vertical.
Do-it-yourself toilet installation is carried out in the following sequence:
- Markings are being made on the floor;
- A screw flange with a locking device is installed;
- A sewer pipe is mounted in the center of the flange;
- The toilet is mounted on a flange;
- The outlet pipe is fixed.
Bathroom with horizontal outlet
These products are sometimes called direct release toilets. It is most widespread in Russia. Such products have a rearward outlet. It is connected to the sewer pipe using a special cuff.
Models with a horizontal outlet are most often attached to the floor. The manufacturer provides special connection holes that allow you to attach the toilet to the floor. Dowels or standard screws are most often used as fasteners.
Advice! Fasteners should be tightened carefully so as not to damage the product.
Toilet with oblique outlet
A toilet with an oblique outlet can be connected as follows:
- Cleans the socket of a cast iron half-bend from old sealing and debris;
- The toilet is installed on a layer;
- Excess cement paste is squeezed out. It should fill the half-bend socket by at least 2 cm.
This method is currently used quite rarely, since dismantling the equipment is quite difficult. Most often, preference is given to standard anchor screws. However, some cement paste can be placed under the sole of the toilet to compensate for any unevenness.
In some cases, silicone sealant can be used instead of cement paste. However, under significant or uneven load, the sole of the product may crack.
Then, using a sealing coupling, the outlet is connected to the cast iron socket without displacement. With its help you can compensate for the existing horizontal or vertical offset. To ensure maximum tightness, silicone sealant is pre-applied to the outer surface of the coupling.
Connecting water to the toilet cistern
To provide supply tap water to the drain tank, you can use one of the following methods:
- Bottom eyeliner. Such models create a minimum of noise during operation. However, if during the installation process it was possible to ensure sufficient tightness;
- Side eyeliner. They are easy to install. When performing installation yourself, you may find yourself best choice due to the simplicity of the work. It creates a lot of noise when filling the tank with water. Some models come with an extended pour pitch, which reduces the amount of noise generated;
- Flexible eyeliner. Models in which the tank is located above the bowl are most often connected in this way;
- Hard eyeliner. Such a system can last quite a long time.
Connections for all types of hoses are performed in the following sequence:
- A separate tap is installed with which you can turn off the water supply. The insertion must be carried out according to all the rules;
- One end of the line is connected to the tap and secured with a special nut;
- The second end is connected to the drain tank and secured with a nut;
- The mating surfaces are checked for leaks.
How much will it cost to install a toilet: price for work
If you want to know the price for the work, installing a toilet can be done for a different amount. On average, such services will cost:
We hope you liked the article. Knowing how to properly install a toilet, you can do the entire amount of work yourself. Share in the comments how you solved this problem yourself. If you have any questions, ask. We will definitely answer.
Finally, we suggest watching a video on how to install a toilet correctly step by step.
Sooner or later the need arises to change the plumbing. IN Lately Many owners prefer to carry out the installation work themselves. Later in the article we will figure out how to properly install a toilet.
general information
Before installing a toilet with your own hands, you need to select it. The main criterion in this matter will be the size of the room. So, for a typical bathroom, a “compact” toilet model of imported or domestic production is suitable. Experts recommend purchasing a product similar to the one installed previously or with the same type of fastening system. It must be said that installation different types toilets are different. As a rule, the differences consist in the need to connect special equipment and additional functions. Modern models are equipped with enough detailed instructions on different languages, including in Russian.
Important points
Before purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the old product. You need to pay attention to:
- Release angle. Today various models are produced. The angle can be oblique, straight or vertical. You should measure the height of the outlet to the floor. If the outlet does not match in the model of the selected product, you can additionally purchase a drain adapter corrugation.
- Water connection. Traditionally, bottom or side eyeliner is used. A flexible hose is installed. When choosing a new plumbing fixture, you should consider the length of the liner. Before installing the toilet, you should purchase a new hose.
- Mounting method. The old toilet can be fixed to the floor using two bolts. In this case, you need to purchase another set of fasteners. In some bathrooms, the device is cemented into the surface. In this case, you will need to break the floor screed until the wooden insert appears.
Before installing a toilet with your own hands, you should also check the method of shutting off the water supply to the tank - from a common riser or locally. In the first case, you will have to contact local plumbers. It is also necessary to assess the condition of sewer and water pipes throughout the apartment. You may need to replace some elements before installing the toilet. Before starting work, you should prepare the following tools:
- Drill and drill bit diameter 10.
- Hammer.
- To assemble the tank - 2 wrenches.
- Silicone sealant.
Preparation for dismantling
Before installing the toilet with your own hands, you should remove the old product. Dismantling is carried out in several stages:
Dismantling
The first step is to remove the fastening to the floor. Bolts (if old toilet screwed) are unscrewed. If the toilet is filled with cement, then the screed is broken if possible. If this is difficult to do, you will have to hit the plumbing object in the places where it is fixed. After the toilet is removed, it needs to be tilted back. This is necessary in order to drain the remaining water from the cavities. Next you need to disconnect the bell. The corrugation is simply removed. If a cast iron or plastic socket is installed, then it must be disassembled to the first connection or cut down to size. This is done after the toilet is removed.
Next, a corrugation should be inserted into the sewer socket. On the joint side, the element must be lubricated with sealant. The bell should be cleaned from the inside and also lubricated. The corrugation is inserted all the way. After this, it is better to plug the entrance with an old rag or close it with a special plug to prevent the spread of sewer smell.
Old fastenings
If the floor is flat (screeded or tiled), before installing the toilet on a tile or cement base, the previous fixing elements should be removed. If the new product has similar fasteners, then the parts are installed in the old places. The old plastic dowels are drilled out. New ones are inserted in their place. The holes may be wider than the dowels. In this case, the product will not be secured securely. To prevent this, new holes should be prepared. The toilet assembly is placed at the fixation point. Next, you should mark the fastening areas, taking into account the dimensions of the product, the length of the corrugation and the liner. The dowels must be carefully driven into the prepared holes. Items should fit easily. From proper preparation holes will determine the further stability of the toilet.
Screed
If the plumbing product was filled with mortar, then before installing the toilet, you need to make a new base. After removing the old product, the wooden lining will be visible in the recesses. The floor is leveled with a thick cement mortar, the toilet is placed on top and screwed. After the screed has dried, the bolts are finally tightened. There is one point to consider here. The wooden lining may rot over time. If the installation of the strip is not intended, then pour the screed and allow it to dry for 2-3 days.
We install the toilet ourselves
A new product is placed at the prepared fastening point. The fasteners are tightened alternately - one and the other should be tightened evenly. The product is assembled together with the drain tank. Usually, modern models made in the form of a “compact” design. In this case, the toilet and cistern are already connected to each other. When installing products equipped with automatic system drawing and draining water, usually there are no difficulties. However, attention should be paid to the assembly and adjustment of the float valve. This element is responsible for the volume and pressure of incoming water. The next step is to fix the flexible liner. One end is screwed to the water supply. Then you should open the tap a little and drain a little water. This is necessary to flush the pipe from the inside. Next, the water is closed, the second end of the hose is connected to the toilet. Here it is necessary to check the reliability of the rubber pads located under the nuts. Here's how to install a toilet correctly.
System check
After installation is completed, you need to check the work. Water opens in the system. While it is being poured into the tank, you should carefully inspect all connections and check for leaks. Next you need to drain the water several times. This checks for leaks in sewer connections. After a few hours, you should carefully inspect everything again. Here's how to install a toilet yourself.
Custom design
Often there is so little space in bathrooms that many owners decide to install a wall-hung toilet. It should be noted that the installation of this product is somewhat more complicated than that described above. How to install a wall-hung toilet? More on this later.
General information
The product itself and the tank are mounted on the wall. For this, a supporting frame is used - a frame. It is usually mounted in a wall (in a niche) and covered with a decorative panel. The depth of the niche will depend on the width of the tank. In this case, technical gaps of 1-1.5 cm should also be taken into account. The sewer pipe, which also closes in a niche, must have a horizontal socket. If it is not possible to make a recess in the wall, then the frame is installed close to the surface. The top can be covered with plasterboard and covered with tiles, like walls. The design of the wall-hung toilet allows you to disguise all communications. Outside there will only be the product itself and the flush button.
Frame installation
The height of the assembled frame, as a rule, is 1.3-1.4 m. The lower part of the frame should be equipped with adjusting screws. Brackets are installed on top. With their help, the vertical position of the frame is adjusted. The drain button is located at a height of about a meter from the floor. The toilet seat should be at a level of about 40-42 cm. Partially, the exact dimensions will depend on the preferences of the apartment’s inhabitants, partly on the product model itself and the position of the sewer pipe. As a rule, there is free space under the structure. This is quite convenient when cleaning the room. The supporting frame is installed strictly in a vertical position. Use a level for leveling. The future location of the frame can be determined using plumb lines. After this, holes are drilled in the wall and floor. Dowels are inserted into them. After this, the frame is installed and the horizontal position is adjusted using screws. Vertical alignment is carried out using brackets. After giving the frame the required position, it is fixed with locknuts.
The final stage of frame installation
How to install the tank? In this case, the element is not attached to the toilet. Installation is carried out on the frame. After installation, the tank should be connected using a flexible hose to the water supply pipe. Then you need to adjust the elbow adapter to length. It connects the outlet pipe socket and the toilet outlet. After this, pins are mounted to secure the bowl of the plumbing fixture itself. Corners are installed along the perimeter of the frame. The sheathing will be fixed to them. All the necessary holes are cut out on its front surface - for pins, pipes and a release button.
Completing the toilet installation
The product is attached to the selected location after the frame covering and other materials are completed. Finishing work. In the area where the toilet is installed, the wall must be perfectly flat. A special paste must be applied to this place. As a leveling mixture, you can use white for seams, Portland cement, or white cement. The paste should have the consistency of a thick paste. A gasket is put on the pipes and pins (it comes included), then the toilet is hung and pressed tightly against the wall. At the same time, the nuts should be tightened. The protruding paste must be carefully removed. In conclusion, I need to say a few words about how to install a toilet seat. Actually, there is nothing complicated here. The seat is usually secured with two bolts. These fixing elements can be found included with the product.
A toilet is a thing that, depending on the number of people in the family, is used with enviable regularity. And although manufacturers make it quite durable, there are nevertheless a number of reasons why the toilet needs to be replaced. For example, the ceramics have become unsightly or the toilet mechanism has broken down, plus there is a natural physical and obsolescence of things. Therefore, the question of how to install a toilet is of interest to many who have not escaped the problem of replacing a toilet.
Types of toilets
The plumbing products market offers all types of toilets, which differ according to special characteristics:
- according to the configuration of the outlet drain: horizontal, oblique, which is located at an angle of 45 degrees and vertical;
- according to the shape of the bowl: visor-shaped, where the walls have a different angle of inclination, plate-shaped with an internal platform and funnel-shaped, which is considered the most practical option.
Before you begin, you need to figure out how to properly install the toilet, depending on the main toilet systems, the disassembly of which can have significant differences:
- Mounted or wall-mounted. With this design, the plumbing fixtures do not touch the floor, but are only attached to a special installation wall system, which can withstand any load. Aesthetically, everything looks attractive, because... all communications are hidden. However, installing such a structure requires significant financial costs, the smallest repair turns into a huge problem, and the question of how to install a toilet with your own hands remains open.
- Attached. With this system, the toilet is attached to the floor, and the cistern with all communications is hidden in the wall. The plus is the appearance of such a device, and the minus is the difficult repair of hidden parts.
- In-floor. This system is used in public toilets, when installation is done directly into the recess of the floor. However, for apartments and houses this option remains unacceptable to many.
- Floor-standing. The most popular standard designs are with a toilet attached to the floor and an adjacent cistern. An undeniable advantage of such technologies is the ability to install and repair a toilet yourself, without the help of specialists.
Installing a new toilet, regardless of the specific type of product, consists of two stages:
- removing the old toilet;
- installation of a new product.
Dismantling the toilet
When removing the old toilet, you must take special measures precautions to avoid water leakage, which, in the worst case, will require further reconstruction measures. Therefore, in order to avoid common mistakes, below is step by step guide for non-professionals.
Shut off water
The first step in removing a toilet is to turn off the water. This can be done by simply turning off the tap. However, there are situations when valves are no longer used long time, and they manage to rust. In this case, you should shut off the main riser and change the faucet at the same time during the repair process.
Advice! To prevent faucets from rusting, they should be used for preventive maintenance at least once a year.
After turning off the tap, you should completely drain the water from the tank.
Disconnecting the water supply hose
On the side of the cistern there is a flexible hose through which water flows for flushing. It is fastened with ordinary nuts, which are unscrewed very simply.
Removing the cistern
The flush tank is attached to the toilet with two long bolts. In order to unscrew them, you first need to remove the tank cap. Then, if necessary, blot off excess moisture with a sponge (if there is water left inside, it will definitely spill onto the floor through the holes of the removed bolts). A situation may arise when the screws become rusty, because... have been in contact with water for many years, then a special anti-rust product will help.
After loosening the bolts, you should carefully remove the drain tank, rocking it in different directions to ensure even removal.
The toilet is usually attached to the floor with several bolts (an option is when a wooden board is first placed under the toilet). To make the work process easier, you first need to remove the toilet lid. Then be sure to put rags on the floor or place a bucket. The toilet has a water seal where water is constantly present - this is a kind of barrier against unpleasant odors from the public sewer. When removing plumbing fixtures, a fair amount of liquid spills out, which can result in flooding your neighbors.
Then you need to unscrew the bolts at the base of the toilet. If they are rusty, then you need to use special means or cut them with a grinder.
You need to go along the entire base line with a sharp knife or blade, because... Often the joint between the toilet and the floor is coated with sealant.
The attachment to a common sewer pipe is very often fixed with cement. In order to get rid of it, you can use a drill with a medium drill.
Important! To avoid breathing gases from an open sewer, before removing the toilet, you should prepare a homemade plug, for example, old rags. After quickly cleaning the pipe from construction debris, you must immediately plug the hole with a prepared rag.
Now the old toilet can be removed, and this completes the dismantling work.
Removing a wall hung toilet
When dismantling a wall-hung toilet, the procedure is approximately the same:
- first you need to loosen the bolts that hold the toilet in the wall installation;
- then disconnect the toilet from the cistern and the general sewer system;
- finally remove the toilet.
Before directly installing the plumbing product, you need to perform some actions:
- Take accurate measurements of the old toilet so that when purchasing and subsequently installing a new one, you can avoid unnecessary problems. You also need to pay attention to the length of the bowl so that it does not accidentally block the door.
- Choose a brass fastener that does not corrode. However, some metal toilet bolts have a yellowish zinc coating that makes them look like brass, so the product should be checked carefully.
- Repair or good.
When installing a toilet, you can use one of three methods:
- Taffeta fastening. With this installation method, taffeta is placed under the base of the toilet. This is a special hardwood board pre-treated with drying oil. It should be laid either flush with the floor or slightly higher than it. The taffeta must be secured with anchors and the installation site must be filled with cement. After the solution has completely dried, you can begin installing the toilet. All joints with sewer pipe should be treated with sealant and sealed with tow, and the base of the toilet should be screwed to the prepared area with screws. Then attach the drain tank and check the tightness of the system.
- Connection with glue. One of the most simple ways You can consider fixing the toilet using epoxy glue. To do this, you need to thoroughly clean the contacting surfaces, and then degrease them with one of the substances - solvent, acetone or white spirit. After this, you need to roughen them for greater adhesion and repeat the degreasing procedure. Then dry. The next step is to connect the flush cistern to the toilet. Then you need to apply a thin layer of epoxy glue to the floor, place a plumbing product on it and press it well (you can just sit on the toilet). The glue must dry for at least 12 hours.
- Dowel installation. Correct installation toilet bowl can be easily installed with dowels. This practical method involves fixing the toilet directly to the floor, without first installing additional structures under its “leg”.
Installing a toilet with your own hands will consist of several steps:
- Preliminary fitting. You need to place the toilet on the prepared floor and check for discrepancies between the height of the neck and the waste pipe. It is also necessary to check the angle of inclination. If necessary, correction should be made.
- Design markings. First, you should measure the width of the room and find the middle, which will be the axis of the toilet. Install a toilet on it, approximately 10-15 cm from the outlet pipe of the waste pipe. Then, you can insert a marker into the mounting holes and make the appropriate marks. At the end you need to circle the base.
- Assembling the drain tank. In accordance with the instructions in the instructions, you need to assemble the tank and then screw it to the toilet. To check the quality of the work done, you can reconnect all communications and perform a test run. After a successful experiment, you need to drain the water again and continue the process of replacing the toilet.
- Preparing mounting holes. In the places marked with a marker, you need to make holes using an impact drill or hammer drill. Then hammer plastic dowels into them.
- Corrugation sealing. First you need to wipe the pipe dry with a rag and apply silicone in waves to the ribbed rubber hidden in the drain pipe. The same actions must be carried out from the opposite end of the corrugation, treating the area that fits onto the neck of the toilet bowl.
- Connecting the device to the sewer. First, part of the corrugation (to the edge of the elastic) needs to be inserted into the sewer pipe. On the opposite side, firmly place it on the toilet outlet. Then, on the place previously outlined with a marker, you need to lay a special rubber gasket or apply a good ball of silicone.
- Equipment installation. Initially, you need to place the toilet in the prepared place, press it and screw it to the floor. Excess silicone formed during installation can be cleaned with a wet cloth, running it along the contour of the device.
This completes the installation. Now you can carry out a test run of water. If the work was carried out without errors, then the tank will be filled with water to the required level and its flow will stop. There should be no overflow. After draining the water, the process should be repeated without failure. You should also carefully check that the newly installed structure is not leaking anywhere. If everything meets the above criteria, then the installation can be considered successful.
IN last years the wall-hung toilet has become very popular, so the question of installing a wall-hung toilet is more relevant than ever. Installation of such plumbing equipment is carried out on the wall without any fastenings or contacts with the floor. In order to securely fix the toilet, you first need to build a metal frame. It attaches directly to load-bearing wall, and then the toilet itself. This applies if the tank and pipes need to be hidden behind a plasterboard wall. In some variants wall hung toilet With an open tank, you can mount it directly on the wall. But then it will be necessary to press the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastening itself is done using anchors that are mounted into the wall or frame.
Installing a toilet on a tiled floor
The tiles should always be intact and beautiful, regardless of the workflow for installing the toilet. There are unspoken rules for this, a list of which is given below:
- When installing the toilet, be sure to put rubber gaskets under the anchor nuts and dowels. They will prevent cracks in the toilet when tightened and prevent rusty streaks on the ceramic tiles.
- If the tiles are already laid, then the best solution would be to attach the toilet epoxy resin or dowels.
Important! You cannot make deep holes for dowels, because... the waterproofing layer can be damaged, which in turn can lead to more serious problems.
Users who have encountered the services of plumbing specialists know firsthand about the high prices for any plumbing work, even the smallest ones. Carrying out all the operations, including dismantling old equipment, can cost a pretty penny, so installing a toilet with your own hands will save someone significant financial resources.
Before installing a toilet with your own hands, it is useful to study the technology of installing plumbing equipment and the rules for working with flooring, which is most often tiles. Also, when carrying out the work, you will need standard household or construction power tools, fasteners that come with the toilet, or more reliable ones purchased from a retail chain.
Most often, new toilets are purchased for installation in apartments and private houses, sometimes they are installed in dachas, in the private sector in toilets rustic type, using your old ones or buying second-hand ones.
The trading network offers an extensive the lineup various types Toilet bowls, depending on the design, installation, material of manufacture, are divided into categories according to the distinctive features given below.
The comfort, hygiene and functionality of using a plumbing fixture depends on the design of the bowl; there are three main designs:
Funnel-shaped. In it, the drain hole is located in the center, the design ensures thorough and quick removal waste products, a significant disadvantage of this arrangement is the formation of a splash when waste falls. To get rid of splashes in a funnel-shaped structure, an anti-splash function is often implemented by making a drain hole of small depth (30 - 40 mm) with a slope back.
Disc-shaped. It is a platform in which the drain funnel is pushed forward - this leads to the fact that waste first falls and is retained on a flat platform, after which it is washed off with water. The disadvantage of the design is low hygiene, requiring too frequent use of a brush, so the dish-shaped form is considered obsolete and is practically not used in modern toilets.
Kozyrkovaya. The most common bowl shape in modern toilets, the drain hole is pushed forward, and waste falls into a funnel down the sloping bottom. To prevent splashing, there is a small lip at the top of the drain to prevent splashing.
Recently, a new type of hygienic toilet has appeared on the market, in which germs have nowhere to hide; the design is called rimless and is a bowl with solid internal walls, not much different in appearance from the standard one.
Water supply when flushing
The water coming from the drain tank washes away waste along the following trajectories:
Direct flush. Water comes from the front of the flush hole - this causes increased noise, splashing, and incomplete coverage of the bowl. The advantages of the design include durability and low cost; in addition to the listed disadvantages, one can cite the need for more frequent care behind the bowl.
Circular flush. With this arrangement, water jets move towards the waste in the center of the bowl from all sides - this allows up to 95% of its surface to be treated with low noise and no splashes. Naturally, the price of a toilet with a circular flush is slightly higher than that of a design with a direct flow.
Release type
Sewer pipes in apartment buildings are usually located in the walls; sometimes they are more aesthetically located in the floor (on the first floors of individual houses). Accordingly, the design of plumbing fixtures must take into account this arrangement of pipes, so toilets are produced with the following types of outlet pipes:
Horizontal. Toilets with such an outlet are connected to vertically placed risers in the walls. An outlet located parallel to the floor plane is convenient if the entry point into the vertical riser is technically impossible to locate at the level of the screed and it is necessary to connect the device at some distance from the floor.
Typically, most modern toilets have this design because of its versatility - if it is necessary to lower the entry point into the riser below, special corner adapters and eccentrics are used.
Oblique. An outlet at an angle of 140 - 145 degrees is made in toilets a little less often than a straight one; the bowl is connected to a vertical riser almost at floor level. The advantage of the design is the absence of stagnation in the corrugation - all waste completely flows into sewer riser due to the significant slope. Modern toilets with oblique outlet are less functional due to limitations in connecting to the riser at a greater height.
Vertical. More often, toilets of this design are used in individual housing construction, where there is no need to use an interfloor riser. In this case, the device is placed on the sewer pipe coming out of the floor using a straight adapter pipe.
Bowl placement method
Toilets must withstand not only their own weight, but also the weight of a person sitting on the bowl; their design, depending on their location, can be of the following types:
Floor. In this modification of the classic type, the bowl has flat base with two through holes, through which it is attached to the floor with screws and dowels, anchor bolts. Floor-standing plumbing equipment is designed for installation in spacious toilet rooms; installation itself is simple and takes a minimum of time.
Note: One of the modern varieties of floor-standing models are wall-mounted types, which have a flat flush cistern and an outlet design that allows the toilet to be placed close to the wall - this saves space in the toilet room.
Separately, we can highlight a special one, which has a triangular shape for installing a toilet in the corner of the toilet. Corner model allows you to move away from established patterns when arranging toilet room, is original design solution, in some cases (square-shaped rooms) outperforms the traditional arrangement in practicality.
Hanging. The design allows the bowl to be hung on the wall; thanks to the reinforced body, it can withstand weight up to 400 kg. Usually cistern a wall-hung toilet is hidden in the wall, leaving a button on the surface to control its operation. Wall hung toilets designed for installation in a small toilet room and, thanks to the open floor, make cleaning the room much easier.
Tank location option
The drain tank can be attached to the bowl or located at some distance from it, supplying water through a pipeline, and the distance can be as large as desired.
Separate tank and bowl. This modification was widely used in Soviet-era toilets, the tank was raised high above the toilet, and water entered the bowl through a long vertical pipeline. Such toilets are now little used due to their absence in the retail chain, the only exception being exclusive options for furnishing residential premises in a certain design style.
Combined toilet. This is a classic model of the vast majority of toilets, in which the tank is located directly on the bowl, which is its support. The advantage of the design is ease of installation - to install the toilet, two holes in the floor are enough, to which the base is screwed.
One of the varieties of a toilet with a combined design is a creative option, which is a monoblock cast from a single blank. The model does not require fastening the tank to the bowl with metal bolts and sealing their butt joint with a rubber ring.
Hidden tank. A tank hidden behind a false wall is a recently popular type of installation called installation; to implement it, the tank is placed on metal frame and hide behind the wall cladding, bringing to the surface the button that controls the drain. The bowl is placed on the floor or hung on the wall; the flush tank is usually made of plastic.
Supplying water to the tank
For aesthetics and ease of placement, modern tanks are produced with a right or left lower water supply to the body; products with side openings for water supply are less common.
Manufacturing materials
The list of components from which toilets are made is not too wide, the main ones are:
Porcelain. The material is a fired mixture of clay, quartz sand, kaolin with other additives. Porcelain has low porosity, does not absorb odors, and the service life of porcelain plumbing reaches up to 50 years. The disadvantages of porcelain include its fragility and high cost, which is unaffordable for many consumers.
Faience. The source materials and technology for producing earthenware are similar to the production of porcelain; the material has greater porosity - this leads to deterioration of hygienic indicators. The earthenware surface absorbs odors well and retains odors, which is why all earthenware plumbing fixtures are coated with a thick water-repellent glaze during manufacturing.
Thanks to its low cost, wide color palette, resistance to almost all aggressive chemicals, ease of maintenance, service life of at least 30 years, earthenware products are in wide demand among consumers and are leaders in sales among other types of plumbing fixtures.
The disadvantages include the fragility of earthenware products, which is inherent in all ceramics, as well as the appearance over time of small cracks that weaken the material and change color.
Stainless steel. Toilets made of metal, more precisely stainless steel, are usually installed in in public places, mainly in land, sea and air transport (trains, airplanes, ships).
On sale you can find cast-iron enameled bowls without a cistern under your feet, which in Soviet times were installed in public village-type toilets. Now, with the improvement of culture, they are not in high demand, but are still produced in obsolete production and sold in the retail chain.
Plastic. The current state of technology allows us to produce plumbing fixtures from plastic, while products made from reinforced acrylic have high strength, low porosity, and are easy to maintain. The disadvantages of polymers include low mechanical strength and susceptibility to thermal deformation.
Glass, stone. Natural and artificial stone, glass, serve as materials for the exclusive manufacture of sanitary ware and, accordingly, have an unaffordable price for the average consumer. From artificial stone It is convenient to make a monoblock design, imperceptibly and firmly connecting two castings (bowl and tank) with the liquid composition of their manufacture.
Removing an old toilet
Before installing the toilet yourself, you need to get rid of the old plumbing fixture. For the removal of the toilet by hired workers from specialized companies, you will have to pay about 500 rubles. - the amount is quite significant for the average citizen, taking into account the fact that the work takes no more than half an hour and, due to its simplicity, is within the capabilities of any owner.
Dismantling work when removing a standard floor-standing toilet is carried out in the following order:
- Shut off the water supply with a ball valve near the flexible connection pipe and drain water from the tank.
- Unscrew the supply hose from the water pipe.
- Proceed to remove the two mounting screws at the bottom. If they have a hex head, use a wrench; some older toilets may have been mounted with slotted screws, making them much more difficult to remove. Usually, as a result of long-term use, fastening screws become covered with rust and salt deposits; deposits can be softened, dissolved with kerosene, household chemicals for removing limescale and rust stains in household plumbing, with WD-40 lubricant.
Note: If there is no time or suitable solutions to dissolve rust and salt deposits, the old toilet is broken out of the fasteners by moving it to the sides or the base near the screws is broken with a hammer (chisel). Also, the toilet is broken when it is walled up or glued to the floor with cement-sand mortar.
After removing the fasteners or destroying the base, the toilet is lifted and slightly tilted back to drain the water, and then taken out of the toilet room and placed on the floor with the tank against the wall to protect it from tipping over.
- Disconnect the corrugation from the toilet (if it was removed along with it), unscrew the supply hose cold water, after which the bowl with the tank attached to it is disposed of - weight assembled structure not that high for any healthy man.
- The remaining screws in the floor, if they have not been unscrewed, are not difficult to unscrew with pliers or as a last resort cut with a grinder (metal blade).
- Upon completion of all work, cover the sewer hole with a rag (so that it does not get dirty, it can be put in a plastic bag), and remove dirt from the toilet room.
Installing a new toilet
Do-it-yourself installation of a toilet in a toilet is done using a hammer drill or a home drill with a hammering function; you will need dowels with screws (included in delivery), a wrench of a suitable size for tightening screws and a simple household tool(tape measure, hammer, marker). From Supplies Silicone grease and sealant may come in handy. Before installing the toilet, assemble the flush mechanism in the tank according to the operating instructions.
Types of fasteners to the floor
The bowl of a standard toilet is attached to the floor in the following ways:
- On dowels with screws. Most floor standing toilets come with two wall anchors and hex head screws. To attach the bowl, drill holes in the floor, drive in dowels and wrench tighten the screws in them. There is a second type of fastening using dowels, in which studs with external threads are screwed in instead of hex head screws. After installing the bowl on the studs, it is secured with union nuts.
- For anchor bolts. The method is used when it is necessary to ensure high rigidity of fasteners. For this purpose in drilled holes drive in anchor bolts with external threads, and secure the bowl with union nuts. Instead of anchors, you can use threaded rods, which are embedded in the floor using cement mortar placed in drilled holes of larger diameter.
- On a wooden base. In Soviet times, toilets were installed for short periods wooden planks, placed in recesses concrete slabs and walled up cement-sand screed. After removing the old toilet, you can use this fastening method, using a board instead of plastic dowels. In this case, after installing the new toilet in place of the old one, it is screwed to the floor with wood screws into the board. Since the diameter of the screw is quite large, holes are pre-drilled in the wooden base to facilitate screwing.
How to install corrugation on a toilet
The retail chain sells a wide range of elastic corrugations for connecting toilet bowls to a sewer drain when the bowl has an oblique outlet, additional elements when connecting to a standard outlet with a diameter of 110 mm, they are unlikely to be needed.
If the user has purchased a product with a direct outlet and the vertical riser pipe is located at a short distance from it below, in order to install the corrugation, a rigid adapter with right angle on an inclined one (sometimes an eccentric is additionally installed), placed on the outlet pipe of the bowl or in the sewer pipe.
Instead of a corrugated one, you can use a rigid connection between the bowl and the sewer drain pipe, which has less resistance to water flow and is more hygienic, but making such a connection with your own hands is more difficult, more costly and time-consuming.
The corrugation is connected to a standard toilet as follows:
- To facilitate installation, lubricate the outer and inner surface corrugations in places of contact with the bowl pipe and the sewer pipe silicone grease. You shouldn’t follow the lead of many plumbers who throw away other people’s money for silicone and cover the corrugation with silicone sealant that is absolutely useless for this application.
- Place the corrugation on the outlet pipe of the bowl, bring the toilet to the sewer drain and place the other end into it.
- Place the toilet in its installation location, fill the flush tank and flush the water, checking the tightness of the connection with a dry piece of fabric; if wet spots appear on the material, slightly turn and move the corrugation, after which they allow it to settle for a while.
Step-by-step toilet installation
After assembling the drainage system in the tank, screw it to the bowl and begin attaching the toilet; work is carried out in stages in the following sequence:
- Screw a flexible liner to the flush tank, install a corrugation on the bowl, bring the toilet into the toilet and connect it to the water pipe and sewer drain using the above method.
- Turn on the water supply, after filling the tank, drain it and check the tightness of all connections at the points where the flexible hoses and corrugations are connected. If no drops are found, proceed to further operations; otherwise, tighten the flexible line or move the corrugation.
- Check the location of the toilet: use a tape measure to measure the distance from the base of the bowl to the opposite walls, making it the same, track the position of the flush cistern, making sure there is a small gap (10 - 20 mm) and the parallelism of its location relative to back wall. Open the inspection doors for viewing and access, making sure there are no obstacles. By inserting a marker into the center of the holes in the base of the bowl, mark two mounting points for fasteners.
- Turn off the water supply using a ball valve, disconnect the flexible line from the water pipe, drain the water, lift the toilet with a slight slope back and take it out of the toilet.
Important: To simplify and facilitate the work, some plumbers make marks on the bowl without a tank - such a decision is fraught with errors and will make it difficult to choose the optimal location of the toilet without tracking the full picture.
- Next, they begin to drill holes in the floor tiles (porcelain tiles, gres, tiles, etc.) using a hammer drill or a household drill. To do this, very carefully beat off a small piece of tile with a sharp core, and make a hole in it with a ceramic drill (feather type) in normal rotation mode. The work is greatly simplified if the holes coincide with the tile seam.
- After drilling the tiles, change the drill in the hammer drill to a pobedit one and switch the tool to the mode of simultaneous rotation and beating. Mark with electrical tape on the drill required depth immersion, taking into account the length of the screw and the thickness of the base of the toilet, then drill holes.
Important: It should be noted that the dowels and screws that often come with a toilet do not technically correspond to its weight, that is, on a floor with slight unevenness, the toilet will loosen in a short time and begin to swing on the ledges. Therefore, it is rational to purchase in a retail chain more powerful fasteners with dowels and bolts with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm - this will ensure a stable, reliable and durable fastening of the toilet to the floor.
- After drilling the holes, carefully drive the dowels into them and take the toilet into place, connect it to the water supply, drain sewer system, check the correct operation of the tank and the presence of leaks. If there are no complaints, screw the toilet to the floor with screws, making sure to place gaskets from the kit or purchased at a retail chain under the caps.
- Upon completion of the work, you should install the lid on the toilet according to the instructions; the procedure is quite simple and will not take much time.
Why do you need a sealant?
Many professional plumbers, due to the specifics of their work, are so accustomed to silicone sealant, that they cannot do without its constant use in all cases, regardless of the costs - after all, the customer pays for the material. Therefore, when installing a toilet, most of them recommend slightly raising it above the floor and pumping one or two tubes of silicone under the base to increase stability and protect against water leakage.
Silicone is not so expensive, but if the bowl is installed on a floor with high teeth, due to the constant deformation of the sealant during cleaning, its stability may be impaired over time, and if the toilet is removed for a short time, its bottom will have to be siliconized again. The sealant can be painlessly replaced with an elastic backing made from a piece of linoleum, cutting it along the contour of the base.
In other situations, on a flat floor, instead of sealant, it is a good idea to place one or several layers of foamed polyethylene under the base, which is used as a backing when laying laminate, or replace it with similar materials - in almost all cases it costs nothing and you can save some money by not buying silicone.
For a consumer with a low financial income, independently dismantling the old toilet and installing a new one will save about 3,000 rubles, which he would have spent using the services of plumbers from specialized companies.
If you managed to understand the instructions and install it yourself drainage system into the tank, then carrying out further work will not cause any particular difficulties for any owner, even in the absence of construction skills.
When there are no power tools at home, the problem can be solved by borrowing a hammer drill from friends or renting it from one of the specialized companies.
