Quite often there are breakdowns of mixers. One of the most common is the failure of the axle box crane, which is the main (shutoff and control) unit of the product. Depending on the type of node, the main repair methods are presented:
Product of reciprocating valve type
This type is the progenitor of all mixers. It consists of a screw, on the stem of which the valve rotation handle is fixed. By turning the screw pushes the elongated nut, pressing the valve against the seat of the mixer body.
Thus, there is a regulation (locking) of water. For sealing in the body (on the rod) an oil seal is provided.
Elimination of leakages of the stuffing box between the stem and the body of the valve box. If the stem passes through the nut on the axle box valve body, the stuffing box can be repaired by replacing the stuffing box packing. At first, you can try to tighten the old one. Carefully tightening the nut, you need to catch the end of the thread, otherwise it will break.
To replace the stuffing box, you need to close this valve - you can not block common water; unscrew the screw holding the handle. Usually it is closed with a plug, then remove the handle, unscrew the nut through which the stem passes. There is a seal under the nut. The old one should be removed. But if the length of the nut is enough, then you can simply add a new one.
For the repair of oil seals, there are special packings - braided cords made of linen, impregnated graphite grease, threads, or from polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) ropes. As a gland packing, you can use FUM tape, which is cut into rings and placed around the stem. Then it is clamped with a stuffing box nut. The second option: loosely wind the linen thread, after soaking it with any lubricant (for example, graphite).
If, instead of a nut, a bracket keeps the stem from falling out, a rubber ring is used here as an oil seal.
To replace it, we take out the bracket, disassemble the axle box crane and replace the rubber ring (of which there may be several) with a new, suitable size. Such rings can be purchased at plumbing or auto stores. And in the auto shop, the choice of sizes is much larger.
Ceramic products
It's over modern version. They are produced with the possibility of installing valve-type axle boxes with the same installation dimensions instead of a crane. Principle of operation: two round plates with cut out holes in the form of a sector, one of them is fixed. Rotating, the water passes when the holes match.
From below, these plates are pressed against each other with a rubber gasket, which also serves to hermetically install the faucet-boxes into the mixer body.
Malfunctions: in case of leakage of the stuffing box, the repair actions are the same as with the faucet axle box of the valve type. Breakdowns associated with damage to the plates are solved by replacing them. If the rubber gasket is worn out, it is restored by applying a thin layer of silicone to it.
single lever mixer
They are only ceramic, structurally they are more complicated, their repair is not provided, only replacement with a new one. The principle of operation is the same: the water flow is regulated by combining the holes of the plates.
To remove the crane box single lever mixer you need to remove the handle by removing the plug and unscrew the screw holding it. To do this, use a set of hexagons or a flat screwdriver. Then, removing the protective cap, unscrew the nut.
A feature of mixers with ceramic faucet axle boxes is that to completely shut off the water, you need to turn the handle at an angle of less than 90 degrees, while valve-type models turn several turns.
When trying to adjust the water temperature, the knob must be turned with an accuracy of several degrees, which can be inconvenient. But this is due to the fact that in houses with old communications, the supply pipes are clogged unevenly. Trumpet with cold water clogged more and the water pressure in it is less.
It is necessary either to install a pressure regulator, or to replace the mixer with a thermostatic one. In such mixers, the temperature is set by a separate knob and is very precisely regulated by internal automation.
Surely, every person at some time in his life had to deal with such a problem as a tap leak. You can fix it yourself. The main working part of any faucet or mixer is a faucet box. There are two main types of products: worm (with rubber gaskets) and, practically replacing them, modern, ceramic. Let's talk about the latter.
Advantages of ceramics
In contrast to the usual faucet box with a rubber gasket, a pair of ceramic plates serves as a locking element in ceramic. The material is very hard, so there are no scratches on it. The plates fit snugly together, can be rotated and have holes. Due to the convergence and divergence of the holes when the plates are rotated relative to each other, the water flow opens, closes and is regulated.
On the "worm" crane box with rubber gaskets, it is necessary to make several turns before it completely blocks the flow of water. With ceramics, the situation is somewhat simpler - half a turn and the water is closed!
Due to the fact that taps with gaskets have to be tightened with effort, the rubber wears out quickly and begins to let water through. Therefore, rubber gaskets have to be changed quite often.
The principle of operation of a standard ceramic crane box is as follows. One of the two plates is fixed in the body of the mechanism itself, while the other is hooked by recesses to the stem to which the mixer flywheel (lamb) is attached.
When the flywheel is turned, the top plate is displaced, opening the passage for the flow of water. This design can last a very long time, but costs a little more than the previous model. Such a mechanism is rather bad for dirty and hard water, so it is recommended to install at least a simple filter in front of the tap.
Faucets with ceramic plates open easily, simply and, most importantly, completely silent. It is enough to turn the mixer handwheel 90 degrees to ensure full water pressure.
In order to better see all the advantages of this model, let's see what parts it consists of and what they are intended for.
So, a ceramic faucet box consists of:
The case, as a rule, is made of various alloys of non-ferrous metals. It has a sealing gasket, so there is no need for additional insulation (linen, FUM tape, and so on).
There are gaps on the sides for water to enter. When purchasing such a crane box in a store, you need to pay attention to the length of its body. It may differ from the length of the box body that was in your mixer.
The rod is held on the body with a retainer. It is usually made of steel and is pulled out with a regular flathead screwdriver. Turn signal - this is the part that is responsible for the movement of the handle. It is quite brittle and breaks easily with excessive force.
The upper ceramic plate is connected to the turn signal. Previously, this plate rotated a certain distance. In new models, manufacturers have removed this limitation.
The second plate must match perfectly with the top one, otherwise the water will not flow well. To do this, there are additional protrusions on the bottom plate, due to which it is securely fixed in the housing. For best work plates must be treated with silicone grease before assembly.
The gasket is responsible for the tightness of the structure. Its task is to make sure that water flows in only one direction - between the plates. It does not participate in work and friction, therefore it lives for a long time. The service life depends mainly on the quality of the water that runs from the tap.
When we turn the faucet knob with our own hand, the rod with the turn signal shifts the upper ceramic plate relative to the lower one, opening the passage to the water flow. We turn back, the plate falls into place, the hole closes, and the flow of water into the mixing chamber stops.
Selection rules
What, first of all, should you pay attention to when buying a crane box? The ideal option it would be to take an old part with you and ask the seller to pick up the same one for you.
If the seller for some reason is not able to help you, pay attention to:
- The length of the body and stem (the difference can be significant);
- Thread pitch (sometimes different);
- Flywheel stem head (square or sprocket shape).
As for the manufacturer, good crane boxes are produced by German, Italian and Russian manufacturers.
Possible malfunctions and their elimination
Common malfunctions in operation
The main malfunctions in the operation of ceramic crane-boxes are:
- Chipped or worn ceramic plates;
- Wear of the sealing washer on the rod;
- Wear of sealing rings on the rod.
These are cases in which you can try to save our part and save money on buying a new one.
Repair
Let's take a look at all the options for breakdown and repair in each case. But first, let's take a look at the details:
Now we carefully study everything that we have analyzed. If it's all about damage to the plates, then the only option is to replace the plates themselves.
Perhaps you have some other crane box with suitable records or a set of records (these are also sometimes sold in stores). So, we throw out the broken records, insert new ones in their place and assemble our part back.
When you remove the stem from the body, you will see a flat ring on it. Over time, this washer wears out, and the stem rises higher. It no longer provides proper compression between the plates, and water begins to flow. There may be several ways out in this situation. Firstly, you can replace the washer itself (if you find the same one). Some use a 0.75 mm wire instead, put it on and insert the stem into place.
Another way is to stick a strip of electrical tape in the place where the top plate connects to the turn signal. If one piece is not enough, you can stick two or three. Thus, it is possible to extend the life of the crane box for a few more months.
Due to the described breakdowns, the water in the mixer constantly drips or does not close at all. In the event that the o-rings on the stem are worn out, water can go straight through the body. It rarely happens, but it does happen. You just need to replace these rings with new ones. If there are no such rubber bands at hand, we carry out the following procedure. Carefully pull the ring out of the groove, wind a little FUM tape and put it in place.
All parts will be well washed with diluted citric acid(it removes limescale) and lubricate with silicone grease.
Crane box replacement
Before you make a replacement, make sure that the water is shut off, otherwise you will still have to make repairs to your neighbors:
- Remove the plug from the flywheel (lamb) of the mixer. It can be inserted, and then simply pry off with a screwdriver or knife, or it can be threaded;
- Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the fixing bolt and remove the flywheel from the mixer;
- Unscrew the reflector cap(if any);
- With an adjustable wrench, unscrew the faucet box from the mixer body. If the axle box is with a lock nut, first loosen the nut, then carefully unscrew the axle box with the key on the stem.
After the part is removed, we carry it to the store and select the exact same one. It is also better to take a lamb from the mixer with you.
There is a rubber o-ring outside the box body, so there is no need for additional means of insulation such as linen or FUM tape. We twist with effort, but without much zeal. During screwing, make sure that the ring does not break or come out (this happens).
In the case of a locknut, carefully tighten it. Before screwing the reflector and flywheel, turn on the water and check the performance of our box. If everything is in order, we collect everything else.
- Ceramic bushings are quite durable and reliable, but very sensitive to sand and dirt. Before putting them in your apartment, do not be too lazy to install a water filter.
- Ceramics is very strong, but at the same time quite fragile thing. Turning off the faucet with too much force can easily break the turn signal.
- When assembling the faucet, clean and lubricate all parts. And lastly, since the faucet has been dismantled, do not be lazy and replace all rubber rings. This will significantly extend the life of your mixer, and save yourself time and nerves.
One of the most common troubles associated with the operation of water supply systems in a house or apartment is water taps. Sooner or later this happens in every home, no matter how expensive the faucets have been installed.
It is impossible to ignore this problem, and it is dangerous - it can lead to serious leaks and flooding of neighbors. Therefore, as soon as the faucet drips, you must immediately take action to fix the problem.
Most often, the problem is that the faucet box - the part of the mixer "responsible" for shutting off the flow of water, has failed.
- replace the part with a new one;
- repair it yourself.
But for this you need to know which particular crane box is in yours.
Currently, two types of crane boxes are widely used:
- Worm - the principle of their operation is as follows: the flow of water is shut off by means of a retractable stem, which, when the tap rotates, closes the passage through which water enters.
- Ceramic. This does not mean that the entire device is made of ceramics, it just has 2 ceramic discs in its design, which play the role.
Currently, ceramic faucets are being used more and more.
- greater ease of use of the mixer - in order to open or close the water, you need to turn the tap only 90 degrees, while the worm gear box requires 3-4 full turns.
- ceramic discs wear out very slowly, so problems with water leakage are rare.
True, ceramic axle boxes are somewhat more expensive than worm gears, but they also last much longer.
How a faucet with ceramic discs works
The design of the crane box contains the following elements:
- Body made of non-ferrous alloy;
- Stem, which may have a cap various shapes- "square" or "slot". It is imperative to pay attention to this, because in the event of an error, you simply cannot put the crane flywheel on this rod.
- Lock washer.
- Adapter - necessary for a rigid connection of the rotary stem with the upper ceramic disc.
- Upper ceramic disc - rotates simultaneously with the stem. It has two water holes.
- The lower disc is fixed and also has two water holes.
- A rubber seal is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the faucet box to the mixer seat.
The faucet boxes are simple: when the mixer flywheel is turned, the holes in the ceramic discs match, and water begins to flow. When the faucet is turned back, the openings of the movable plate are shifted by 90 degrees, blocking the flow of water.
Due to high-quality grinding of ceramic discs, their very tight fit to each other is achieved, which ensures high tightness of the crane box.
If the mixer began to leak, it is better to immediately purchase new crane boxes, since it is not always possible to repair the old ones.
The most common cause of faucet failure is a loose rubber gasket on the faucet seat. If this is the reason, then there is no problem - you just need to replace the seal and install the crane box in place.
The faucet box seal is also easy to replace - it has only 2 gaskets. One presses the upper movable ceramic element to the lower one, and the second seals the axle box itself in the mixer seat. If the reason is only in them, then the repair will be quick and easy.
But the reason for the failure of the ceramic crane box can also be the wear of the ceramic discs, which occurs when mechanical particles get between them. Therefore, if the water entering the house or apartment often contains, then it is worth installing a water purification filter in front of the mixer. Exactly dirty water is the main cause of failure of ceramic faucets.
Ceramic plates can also be replaced, but for this you need to find exactly the same elements on sale, which is quite difficult to do. In addition, ceramics are quite fragile and can break if handled carelessly. Therefore, most often ceramic bushings just change to new ones.
The procedure for replacing the crane box:
- The first step is to turn off the water with a valve. If we are talking about a tap, then you can turn off only the line from which it receives water. If this is a mixer, then we block all the water - both cold and.
- Remove the crane flywheel. To do this, carefully remove the protective cap with a screwdriver and unscrew the flywheel fixing screw. After that, the screw itself inner surface the flywheel must be cleaned of debris and rust. If the screw does not loosen, then its head can be drilled out, and then the screw can be replaced with a new one.
- Then, using the key, the axle box is unscrewed. If the axle box does not unscrew well, then the thread can be lubricated with a rust solvent, wait 15 minutes, and then remove the part.
- After that, the thread of the mixer must be cleaned of lime deposits and rust, otherwise the new crane box will not fit snugly against it.
- We screw in a new axle box, trying not to overtighten, but tightly enough.
- We open, and only then we open the valve and check if the faucet box is flowing. The tap must be opened in advance so that all the air that has accumulated in the pipe during the repair immediately exits.
The new axle box will ideally "sit" in the socket only if its size exactly matches the old part. Therefore, if you are not very well versed in plumbing, it is better to unscrew the old box and go for a new one, having it with you. Then in the store you will definitely pick up an identical one.
If, after replacing the axle box, the tap still leaks, then the cause may be a large wear of the seat of the mixer itself.
Then you can try to install a thicker gasket, but this is a temporary measure. It will constantly sag and wear out, and the faucet will start dripping again. So it is better to immediately look after and buy a new mixer.
When deciding to use ceramic faucet boxes, the following circumstances must be considered:
- If yours is not distinguished by the purity of the water, and you do not want to install a filter or for some reason cannot, then it is better to use a worm faucet box. They are not so demanding on water quality and have high maintainability, which consists in replacing rubber gaskets.
- If you want to replace permanent worm inserts with ceramic ones, then the question arises: will the mixer itself need to be replaced or can the old one be used. To do this, you need to focus on the mounting hole of that part of the box that is screwed into the mixer - the new one must fit exactly into the old socket.
- Pay attention to the tip of the crane box - it must exactly match the mixer flywheel. If the flywheel is designed to fit on a square rod, then the new axle box should also have a square. Having bought a box with a splined head, you will have to purchase other flywheels for the mixer.
- Although the length of the crane box is usually standard, sometimes parts that differ in length can be found on sale. Therefore, either measure the length of the old box, or take it with you when you go to the store.
Thus, replacing an old crane box with a new one is not difficult. The only condition is to work slowly, carefully, conscientiously clean all threads and sockets from plaque and rust. Then the new axle box will “sit down” tightly in place and will not cause you problems for a long time.
Modern locking plumbing elements, namely the ceramic bushing faucet, is an accurate and well-regulated system. In this system, each element occupies a strictly designated position and ensures the timely supply of water. But in some situations, the axle box crane starts to fail. How to repair or replace?
What a real master is not afraid to do
Real House master not afraid of work. Even if he finds it difficult to repair an unfamiliar plumbing or locking part, called the “faucet box”, the first thing he does is disassemble it in order to get to know the “close” design.
How, have you never repaired a bushing crane? It can't be, either you live on Mars, or the plumbing in your apartment is in excellent condition. There is nothing complicated in repairing a crane box, the main thing is to understand its design. Having enriched your knowledge, you can safely proceed to repair the ceramic faucet axle box or replace it.
Bushing crane design
Unlike antediluvian axle boxes with rubber gaskets, the locking element of the axle box valve practically does not need seals made of elastic materials. Parts of the locking element fit tightly to each other. Such a fit is ensured by the cleanliness of the aluminum oxide surface from which the locking and regulating element is made.
These are two discs or two flat ceramic plates with holes. The presence of a shut-off and control element responsible for the supply of water gives a complete picture of the faucet and answers the question: "How to repair a faucet bushing ceramic."
The classic ceramic bushing faucet consists of the following elements:
corps
rotary rod
lock washers
adapter
gasket
ceramic plates top and bottom.
The body of the ceramic bushing faucet is designed in such a way that installation and installation in the body of a bathroom faucet or faucet is carried out by screwing in and out using a traditional adjustable wrench. A tight seal is provided by a gasket.
The main working link is a rotary rod, consisting of three parts.
In the upper part of the stem there is a tap handle, which is screwed to the rotary stem with a screw. The middle part is fixed due to the expansion ring. The lower part of the stem is responsible for the engagement with the ceramic plate.
The adapter is responsible for the rigid connection of the rod with the upper ceramic plate. The most " weak link» are sealing gaskets, due to looseness of which leaks are possible.
Useful tips from the master
During the replacement or repair of the crane box in the process, when you “counter” the gasket clamp with a wrench, it is recommended to keep the crane itself from possible wrapping. The twisting process should go easily, without significant mechanical effort. This distinguishing feature constructive.
If the twisting is tight and you have to make an effort, then somewhere there is a defect (a shell washed with hard water or a saddle crack). In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the crane and adjust the axle box crane with your own hands.
Possible emergencies during operation of the axle box crane
With a significant amount of suspended particles in tap water, the wear of the working parts of the crane bushing occurs faster. For a gentle effect on the working surfaces of the crane, it is recommended to use cleaning filters. If there are no cleaning filters, in practice, water leaks are emergency situations.
What details of the axle box crane design should ensure tightness?
Ceramic plates provide the necessary tightness of the tap. The surfaces of the ceramic plates of the top and bottom should fit snugly. If this condition is not met, the ceramic faucet of the box will drip. The cause of constantly flowing water can be a poorly milled mixer or faucet seat.
In addition to the wear of the ceramic plates, the plastic gasket is also affected. It is not difficult to determine what condition the plastic gasket is in.
The presence of stem play in the faucet box or the loss of a copper clip will signal an emerging trouble with a plastic gasket. So, it's time to change this significant element.
Useful tips from the master
Any home Master knows perfectly well what to provide for all options. emergencies, these "if" is impossible.
Numerous models of faucet bushings and cartridges have specific elements and may differ:
by diameter (35-40 mm)
the presence or absence of a foot
sealing diameter.
Of course, in order to save material resources, you can start turning or shortening gaskets and plates, fitting them to the “native” elements. But in practice, it is impractical to replace or repair individual parts of the axle box crane due to labor-intensive and not always justified costs.
How to replace ceramic faucet do-it-yourself box, presented in this video.
Of all the plumbing fixtures and devices installed in an apartment or house, the most commonly used category, for sure, is the kitchen faucet. Cooking, washing dishes, fruits or vegetables, taking water for drinking or boiling, carrying out wet cleaning in the kitchen, a host of other small household needs - and all this falls on him. It is not surprising that sooner or later the moment comes when the built-in operational resources of even the highest quality mixer are exhausted, and certain problems appear in its operation. The likelihood of such a situation will be even higher if at one time, for reasons of economy, an inexpensive mixer of dubious quality was purchased, and the water coming from the mains is not clean, or the condition water pipes does not withstand any criticism.
Faucet failure immediately causes a lot of unpleasant problems that significantly complicate the normal functioning of the kitchen. What to do - call a plumber or run to buy a new appliance? Do not rush - these are extreme measures, but for starters, you can try to repair the mixer in the kitchen with your own hands. As practice shows, the vast majority of the most common faults are repairable. And in the process of restoring the mixer, there are usually no operations so high level difficulties that they would be inaccessible to self-fulfillment the average landlord.
IN what are the malfunctions of the mixer
What obvious and not very signs will tell the owner that the state kitchen faucet should be taken seriously?
- Under the sink in the kitchen there are always traces of dampness, and sometimes even a puddle accumulates. Such problems are the most dangerous, since they are often not noticed immediately, and the “signal” often comes from neighbors below, who have a wet spot on the stream.
Dampness under the sink is a clear sign of some kind of malfunction.
Of course, with a higher probability the reason lies in the malfunction drain system or poor sealing of the sink in the countertop.
Vulnerable point - flexible connection with old steel pipes
If this is indeed the case, then the best choice will be the reconstruction of the home water supply network- replacing it with polypropylene or metal-plastic. But this is a large-scale event, and in order to quickly eliminate the leak, you need to bring this connecting node into relative order.
By the way, the figure above shows a fundamentally incorrect connection of a flexible hose with steel pipe. "Packing" with the help of FUM tape or tow is a completely unnecessary thing. There must be a gasket in the hose nut, which, when tightly fitted to the end of the pipe, completely prevents water from escaping. But winding can even seriously interfere with the normal sealing of this connection.
It is necessary to check whether the nut is tightly tightened, whether it has turned away. However, great efforts should not be allowed when tightening it - you can pinch the gasket, and the leak will become even more.
If the tightening does not help, close the general water supply valve to the apartment, unscrew the nut completely, drain the remaining water into the substituted basin and examine the end of the pipe. If its edge is uneven, touched by corrosion, then there will be no good sealing with the hose. In this case, the best way out is to pack on the thread (of course, using FUM, and better - tow with a special paste like "Unipac") a factory-made extension adapter, in which the edge fits perfectly to the hose gasket.
The sealing material is tightly wound around the turns of the threaded part of the pipe in a clockwise direction. Then the adapter is screwed on and tightly tightened with an open-end or gas wrench. Now you can reconnect the hose, tighten the nut with moderate force, open the water supply and check for leakage. Most likely everything will be fine.
- The second option is that everything is dry on the connections, but the appearance of water on the hose braid is clearly felt. Cause pretty common- alas, the quality of the hoses is very often low. It happens that a rubber tube located inside the braid breaks, and it happens that they give tons of cracks and metal heads, especially if they are made of silumin.
In this case, you should not wait for the problem to develop, but immediately change the eyeliner to a new one. A small leak can suddenly turn into a complete rupture of the hose with all understandable catastrophic consequences.
To replace the piping, most likely, you will have to temporarily remove the mixer - remove the old hoses and screw the fittings of the new ones into high quality nests located on the lower end of the device body without dismantling it is extremely difficult, and in many models it is simply impossible.
To dismantle the mixer, of course, first the cold and hot water, pressure is released, then both flexible hoses are disconnected from the rub. Further actions depend on the type of attachment of the mixer. It's easy to figure this out.
- A very common fastening scheme with studs (one or two), which are screwed into the body from the mixer from below, and nuts pressing a horseshoe-shaped plate with a rubber or polymer lining to the underside of the sink.
It is necessary to loosen and unscrew the nuts from the studs (sometimes the stud itself is unscrewed during dismantling - it's okay), and then pull the mixer up. For nuts, a 10 wrench is usually used, but one must be prepared for the fact that in practice there are nuts for 11 or even 9.
After removing the mixer, it is fashionable to immediately check the condition of the gasket ring between the body and the sink. Its unsatisfactory condition often causes leakage from the surface of the sink down through the fitting hole for the mixer. If the gasket is deformed, you should purchase a new one (in the picture it is shown by an arrow).
The studs usually have slots for a straight or shaped screwdriver. But you don’t have to rely on them especially when dismantling - it will still take effort to unscrew the mount wrench. A screwdriver can be used when reassembling the mixer - it will be more convenient to heal the studs themselves into the body from the mixer.
- Another type of fastening - the lower part of the mixer itself has a cylindrical threaded part, which is inserted into the mounting hole of the sink, and then a powerful nut is screwed from below, which securely fixes the device.
By the way, this design of the mixer sometimes allows you to unscrew the hoses without even dismantling the device itself. But doing so will not be easy.
Imagine working in a very cramped space - under kitchen sink where it is almost impossible to take a comfortable position to start the tool and apply sufficient force. And if there was also a leak at the hose connection, then you can often find a generally sad picture when all the nuts are covered with a layer of oxides and limescale, and do not immediately yield to the force of the key.
Therefore, many craftsmen advise removing the sink to dismantle and reinstall the kitchen faucet. This is usually easy - just do not forget to disconnect corrugated pipe drain from the sewer pipe.
Another “plus” of this approach is the opportunity to “refresh” the seal between the sink and the countertop with a new sealant, in order to completely eliminate the possibility of moisture getting down when the work is completed. Well, the process of dismantling and installing the mixer will be both easier and much better.
Failed hoses are not subject to any repair and restoration - only replacement! And when choosing a new eyeliner, there may be several options:
- The same, but only high-quality hoses in a flexible metal braid. Be sure to measure the required length so that they are not “tight”, but also do not hang with unnecessary loops. On a pair of hoses, the fittings for connecting to the mixer should be of different lengths - this will facilitate installation.
- A more reliable option is modern corrugated stainless steel hoses. They are more rigid, and working with them is somewhat more difficult. But in terms of durability and reliability, they win significantly.
More reliable - corrugated stainless steel hoses
- Some masters prefer hard eyeliner from metal-plastic pipes. To do this, there are special fittings with fittings to go to the appropriate pipe. You will have to tinker longer, but then you can no longer worry about this area.
The procedure for reinstalling the mixer depends on its design.
- If it is fixed on the studs, then the hoses are passed through the sink hole, they are first put on an annular gasket that buries the junction of the mixer and the sink, and then the fittings are screwed into nests corps. It will be more convenient to first tighten the short fitting, and then the long one. The fittings have their own sealing rings, but nevertheless, experts advise making a small winding on the thread - for reliability.
Then the studs are baited, the mixer is installed in the socket, a gasket and a horseshoe-shaped bar are put on from below. Now it remains only to tighten the nuts tightly, while not forgetting to monitor the centering of the device in the center of the mounting hole and how the gasket ring lay.
- If the design of the mixer involves installing it on a nut, then it is better to insert and screw the fitting after fixing the device on the sink.
- They do the same if a rigid metal-plastic eyeliner is planned. In this case, a curved fitting with a fitting is first screwed in, and then a straight one.
If everything is connected, then you can install the sink in place, not forgetting to seal the gap between it and the countertop.
Aqua stop valve
If suddenly the hose sun f-still " explode", then the valve will immediately shut off the water supply and prevent the flood. Probably worth spending a little more for security.
Well, now let's move on to the consideration of problems with the mixer itself.
Problems from above - troubleshooting mixers
If it is obvious that the mixer does not work as required, water oozes out of it, it does not regulate pressure and temperature, the flywheels or lever turn with difficulty or, conversely, too easily, without interrupting the current water, then problems should be sought in the device itself.
General problems - water oozes through the faucet
The first reason is a defect in the case
- If the taps are working normally, but constant water leaks are noticeable on the body of the mixer, then with a high degree of probability it can be assumed that the body has cracked. It can be almost invisible to the eye, but for water this is enough. The reason may lie in the poor quality of the product, in the use in the manufacture of brittle and corrosive metal - silumin, in excessive constriction of nuts or taps - this may cause the saddle to burst, in mechanical damage device.
It is necessary to carefully examine the body with a magnifying glass - this usually gives a result. And if a crack is found, then such a mixer can be considered practically unsuitable for further use. Closing cracks with any compositions, including " cold welding» if it does, but for a very short time and with no guarantee that a more serious accident will not occur while the owners are not at home. The best thing is not to risk it, but to go for a new mixer.
Carefully, so as not to damage the outer coating, with the help of an adjustable wrench, the nut is loosened, unscrewed, and the spout (or, as it is also called, the gander) is carefully progressively removed upwards.
On the lower cylindrical part in special grooves there are rubber rings-gaskets - one or two (shown by red arrows). Above, right under the nut, there is usually another ring - plastic (blue arrows). It is usually split, and does not take a direct part in the process of sealing the hinge - it rather acts as a centering, locking, and to a certain extent also performs the function of a “plain bearing”.
If there were leaks in this part, and the spout itself dangled, then all gaskets should be changed, since they have definitely worn out. Including the plastic split ring to be replaced.
These spare parts are literally "penny", and they are easy to find in any plumbing store. It is recommended to take the removed spout with you in order to accurately select the gaskets of the desired diameter.
Before reassembly, the parts must be cleaned of traces of limescale or rust. When putting rubber rings on the spout shank, be careful not to break them. To facilitate the work, you can lightly coat the surface with silicone grease. The rings should fit snugly into their grooves. Insert the split plastic ring and not difficult at all.
After the new gaskets are put on, the spout can be put in place. But first you need to carefully wipe the landing nest inside with a soft cloth - there may be lime or corrosion growths. After cleaning, the shank is progressively, with a certain effort, but carefully lowered into the socket until it stops, and then the nut is tightened. Then you can check the flow of the spout left and right, and the absence of leaks when starting the water.
The situation is somewhat more complicated if the leakage comes from the joints of the swivel spout block in single-lever mixers (a typical leak location is shown by arrows in the figure).
Elimination of such a defect will require disassembly of the entire device, which will be discussed below.
Problems in the valve mechanism of the mixer
The most common malfunctions are in the operation of the valves that regulate the flow of water into the mixing chamber. These breakdowns make themselves felt by leakage through the valves or the top of the mixer, the inability to completely shut off the water, the difficulty of rotating the flywheels or moving the lever, and poor mixing of hot and cold streams. The elimination of defects depends entirely on the design of the mixer - there are many options.
Repair work with a two-valve mixer
The figure shows circuit diagram devices of most two-valve mixers.
In the body (pos. 1) there are three holes-nests. A gander spout (pos. 2) is installed in the central one, which we have already dealt with above. Left and right in nests faucet boxes (pos. 3) of one design or another are screwed in - they are responsible for supplying and shutting off water into the mixing chamber. Rotation is transmitted to them through decorative flywheels (pos. 4). These flywheels (“lambs”) are fixed on the tap stem with a screw (pos. 5), the head of which is closed with a protective cap (pos. 6), which also acts as a color indicator of cold or hot water.
If there are no cracks on the mixer body, then all the problems that have arisen are related to the fact or other defect of the crane box. Some of them you can try to fix on your own, while others will require the replacement of this assembly.
First of all, it is necessary to unscrew the crane boxes to determine their type.
To do this, first, a protective plastic cap is carefully pry off with a knife (for some models, it may be threaded - then it is carefully unscrewed).
Then the screw is unscrewed with a screwdriver and the handwheel is carefully removed from the splines of the valve stem with a translational movement.
This opens up access to hexagon of the tap, through which it will be possible to unscrew it from the nest. Sometimes, behind the handwheel, there is also a decorative cap that completely hides the tap. It must be carefully unscrewed - usually this requires the effort of the hand.
After that, the crane box itself is unscrewed with an adjustable wrench. Now it needs to be reviewed.
Bushing cranes can be of two types - with a progressively moving rubber gasket-valve, or with ceramic plates. It is not difficult to distinguish them even with the mixer assembled - the first type requires several turns of the flywheel from open to closed, and the second is limited to one turn, half, and sometimes even a quarter.
And axle boxes of both types can be both general problems and specific malfunctions. Let's consider in order.
- The figure shows a box with a rubber valve, which is given translational motion when the handwheel is rotated. Moving down, the valve closes the channel for water from the supply line to the mixing chamber. Conversely, the higher the gasket rises, the larger the “window” for the passage of water.
The arrows show the most vulnerable places, where leaks most often occur.
1 - wear of the gasket on the valve itself makes it impossible to completely block the flow of water into the spout. This usually happens either from long-term operation, or when the water is heavily polluted. Hard particles do not allow the gasket to completely block the channel, the user, of course, tries to tighten the tap even more, thereby pressing these hard inclusions into the rubber. Eventually, out of mixer pouring - constant leakage. The solution in this case is simple - replace the gasket with a new one.
The gum itself is held on the stem with a screw (for a screwdriver or, as in the figure, with a hexagonal head), and around the circumference it is protected from bursting by a metal shell.
- It is necessary to unscrew the locking screw.
- Then the rubber gasket is pry off with a thin screwdriver or knife and removed from the shell.
- A new gasket purchased according to the model is put in place and fixed with a screw.
- After that, you can install the crane box in place.
2 - wear of the rubber sealing ring leads to leakage of water through threaded connection mixer housings and crane boxes with high pressure open water. It happens, this is infrequent, but it is eliminated quite easily - by replacing the ring. Etc you don’t need to listen to anyone, and in no case should you “pack” the crane onto an FUM tape or tow - most often this extreme leads to the nest giving T t crack, and after that the entire mixer can only be thrown away.
3 and 4- wear of the internal seals of the axle box. This is accompanied by water leakage in the stem area, near the flywheel. In this case, the kinematic mechanism of the crane usually also suffers - it starts to jam, it is difficult to scroll, etc. The optimal solution is a complete replacement of the axle box. There are, of course, certain recovery technologies - stuffing a new stuffing box, boring and grinding in a screw gear. However, this, firstly, may not be on all models, and secondly, even the highest quality crane axle boxes are not so expensive as to resort to such complex restoration work.
Flaw 2 equally inherent in the axle boxes with a ceramic plate valve, which will be discussed now.
- Boxes with a ceramic valve are arranged differently.
Blue arrows show fixed parts, green arrows show moving parts.
1- the case in which the whole mechanism is assembled. It has a threaded part for screwing into the mixer socket.
2 - swivel rod with its sealing rings. Rotation from the rod is transmitted to the movable ceramic plate (pos. 3). On given The figure is not visible, but in the assembled form between the stem and the body in the upper part there is a fluoroplastic gasket, which plays the role of a thrust plain bearing.
The second ceramic plate (item 4) is fixed in the lower part of the body. When assembled, it is tightly ground to the mobile. The rotation of the rod leads to the alignment of curly cutouts (windows) on the plates - this is how the water flow opens. Depending on the area of combination, the pressure becomes greater or less. In the closed state of the crane. the windows are diametrically opposite position.
The axle box, when installed in the mixer, with its lower part fits snugly against round channel feed by means of an annular silicone gasket (pos. 5).
When assembled, the axle box is held by a locking bracket (pos. 6) or a washer (depending on the model, a special groove is made in the rotary stem for this retainer. There are retainers in the form of a small threaded stud with a slot for a screwdriver.
To repair axle box cranes of a similar design, you can find special repair kits - the main thing is that they fit specific model. What could be the reasons for the incorrect operation of the crane box:
A- wear or deformation of the silicone gasket from below. Water continues to flow into the spout when the faucet is closed. Must be replaced.
b- wear of the sealing ring at the junction of the tap and mixer (exactly Also, as on a faucet with a rubber valve).
V- one of the most common causes- production of a fluoroplastic plate. The tight fit of rubbing parts (ceramic plates) to each other is broken, and when closed, the water does not completely overlap. The defect is easily checked - if, with oozing water, you press the rod of the axle box from above, then the leak stops. Eliminated by replacement fluoroplastic rings for new ones.
G– two O-rings on the stem prevent water from flowing upward from the body. Wear will make itself felt by water leakage in the flywheel area. To be replaced.
d– abrasive wear of adjacent surfaces of ceramic plates. This is not common - plumbers say that ceramic parts "leave the last." Possible reason– heavily polluted water with solid inclusions. The faucet does not hold water, rotates unevenly, with effort. If there are plates in the repair kit, then they are also easy to change.
The process of overhauling and repairing the crane box is shown in detail in the video:
Video: how to repair a ceramic crane box
Well, in the event that it was not possible to find the necessary kit, you will have to change the crane box completely.
If you need to replace the crane box, then to purchase a new one, it is best to take the dismantled one with you to the store. Here, the diameter of the fitting thread, the installation length of the entire assembly, and others are important. design features (e.g. threads for installing a decorative cap on top) and so on . If desired, it is possible to replace taps with a rubber valve with “ceramics” and vice versa. And one more thing - to select the axle box in the store, it is advisable to take a handwheel (lamb). It happens that the splines of the rod of the new axle box do not match the old flywheel.
Before reverse installation tap, carefully wipe the seat with a clean cloth - there shouldn't be small debris, limescale - everything that can interfere with the normal screwing in and tight fit of the gaskets.
When installing a new axle box, do not use excessive force - you can damage the body from the mixer or pinch the gaskets. It is best to do this - when the water supply is closed, the tap is screwed into the socket until it stops by hand. Then the supply opens, and the tap is carefully turned with a key until the water stops flowing from under it.
After that, you can put the decorative cap (if provided), the flywheel in place, fix it with a screw and close the hole with a plug of the corresponding color.
After carrying out these steps, the two-valve mixer should work normally.
Repair of a single-lever mixer with a ceramic cartridge
If problems arose with a single-lever mixer, then there may be two completely different options. So, the device may have a valve device in the form of a cylindrical cartridge with ceramic plates inside, or a spherical water flow switch.
First, consider the option with a cartridge.
The problem makes itself felt by the impossibility of blocking the flow from from spouting when the lever is fully lowered, water flowing through the top of the mixer, excessively easy or vice versa, difficult movement of the lever with unsatisfactory mixing quality.
The best way out is to replace the cartridge with a new one. Doing it yourself is not as difficult as it might seem at first.
A schematic diagram of a mixer with a cartridge is shown in the figure:
1- metal case with mixer.
2 - cartridge.
3 - clamping fixing nut holding the cartridge in a tightly pressed position in the body. Usually from above it is buried with a decorative cap (item 4).
5 - mixer handle fixed on the plastic cartridge lever with a screw (pos. 6)
7 - swivel spout. The tightness of this movable unit is ensured by two ring gaskets (pos. 8), and smooth running - fluoroplastic rings (pos. 9), acting as plain bearings.
10 - flow aerator located at the end of the spout. A gasket (pos. 11) is used to seal its installation.
In order to replace the cartridge, the work is performed in the following sequence:
Illustration Brief description of the operation to be performed the figure shows a set of tools that may be needed to replace the cartridge. The first step is to carefully pry off and remove the plug that closes the hole for access to the screw fixing the handle. Sometimes the plug and screw, in some models, are also located at the top of the handle - this is easy to determine.
If the repair is carried out without dismantling the mixer from the sink, it is recommended to close the drain hole - small parts very "like" to fall into it.Try shining a flashlight into the opening to determine which head the locking screw has. There can be a straight screwdriver, a curly screwdriver, or a hex.
Use the appropriate wrench or screwdriver to loosen this screw.
Surprises are possible here - it does not always lend itself immediately, especially if water oozed through the top of the mixer. Using brute force is not recommended, as you can rip off the splines, and eat it up to turn into a really big problem.
It is better to try to spray the screw with WD-40 and let it "fall away".After the screw is loosened or removed, the handle is carefully removed from the cartridge lever upwards. The next task is to unscrew the decorative cap.
It usually yields to the force of the hand. If not, then you can try to move it with a gas wrench or pliers, but only very “gently”, trying not to scratch the coatings and not deform the thin metal.After removing the cap, the locking clamp nut will open. Before installing a new cartridge, thoroughly clean soft cloth a cylindrical cavity inside the body - there should not be any rust deposits, lime deposits, small particles.
Installing a new cartridge correctly is not difficult, since almost all models have centering protrusions that must match the corresponding recesses in the case.Assembly is carried out in the reverse order. Again, it is necessary to warn - you must not allow excessive force when screwing the fixing nut, as it is fashionable to deform the cartridge body or the rubber seals standing below. It is best to give a small puff, then turn on the water supply and check if it enters the sides of the cartridge. If a leak is detected, slowly tighten the nut until the leak stops.
You can immediately stop at the already mentioned leak in the swivel spout block. The cartridge is here - absolutely nothing how, and the problem is caused by wear of the sealing rings (in the diagram above - pos. 8). In some models, cuffs are used instead of rings - this will be visible after disassembly.
To replace the seals, the faucet will have to be disassembled even more in order to remove the swivel spout block from the body. Options may be different, depending on the mixer model. So, it happens that this assembly is removed upwards - it is stopped by a special cylindrical clutch. But still more often it is removed towards the connection of the supply hoses. For disassembly in this case can not be avoided complete dismantling mixer from the sink (how this is done has already been described above).
- An annular lock nut will be visible from below. It is unscrewed - a fluoroplastic ring will be found under it.
Option when cuffs are used for sealing
- These seals will have to be changed by purchasing new ones according to the model in the store. At the same time, you can check the condition of the fluoroplastic rings from above and below - perhaps they are also already very worn out.
Some craftsmen practice winding to restore the sealing qualities of these seals. But still, the best solution would be to completely replace them.
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. At the same time, do not forget to install fluoroplastic rings on top and bottom of the rotary block.
Repair of a single-lever mixer with a ball switch block
Scheme of the device of the mixer with a ball adjustment mechanism
Top down:
Mixer handle (pos. 1), fixed with a screw (pos. 2), which is covered with a cap (pos. 3) .
Below is a metal cap (pos. 4), which fixes the entire valve mechanism in the mixer body. Under it is a plastic cam with a figured washer (pos. 5) - they limit the movement of the ball lever in a certain range. The bottom washer has a domed shape and a rubber seal around the circumference - for a snug fit to the ball.
The mixing ball itself (pos. 6), hollow inside, has holes for the passage of water from the liner and exit to the swivel spout block.
From below, rubber valve seats (pos. 7) fit snugly against the ball, which are constantly pressed against its surface by springs (pos. 8).
The mixer device below does not fundamentally differ from the one discussed above - a swivel spout block (pos. 9) with grooves (pos. 10) for sealing rings (pos. 11). The whole structure is assembled in a brass body (pos. 12). An additional aerator (pos. 13) can also be located inside, providing better mixing of water before being fed into the spout.
We will not consider problems with the spout - they practically do not differ from what has already been stated above. Let us dwell only on the repair of the valve mechanism.
- Removing the mixer handle is almost the same. The only difference is that the lever on which the handle is attached not rectangular polymer, like a cartridge, but in the form of a metal pin with a groove for a fixing screw.
- For disassembly, you must first carefully unscrew the top cap. It can have slots on the outside for gripping with a key, or four grooves on the top inside. Of course, it would be better to use a special key. But if it is not there, then the cap is moved from its place, gently knocking counterclockwise against the screwdriver rested in the groove. Another
Where can there be malfunctions in the valve mechanism?
- Dirty or worn top dome washer (orange arrow). Uncommon, usually eliminated by simple cleaning of the surface. The spherical seat for the ball in the body itself is checked in the same way - it also needs to be cleaned.
- Wear of the ball itself (green arrow) - cracks, grooves, etc. Eliminated only by replacing with a new one.
- Worn or deformed valve seats (blue arrows) - they do not fit snugly against the surface of the ball and begin to bypass water. Eliminated by replacing with new ones.
- Weakening and sagging of the springs (red arrows) - do not provide a tight pressure saddles
Removing valve seats and compression springs
- After thorough cleaning of the mixer cavity, assembly is started in reverse order.
- Springs are inserted into the new seats, and then this assembly is carefully placed in the socket until it stops.
- A thin layer is applied to the cleaned surface of the ball. silicone lubricant. Then it is installed in the body, so that the restrictive protrusion on the body falls into the figured groove on the ball.
- Further installed plastic knot- figured dome washer and cam. It is difficult to make a mistake here, since there is a groove in the body, and a corresponding protrusion on the cam.
- The upper metal cap is baited and twisted.
- It is put on the rod and the mixer handle is fixed with a screw.
At this point, the repair of the mixer with a ball valve can be considered complete.
For greater clarity - disassembly and assembly of a mixer with a ball valve in the video:
Video: disassembling a mixer with a ball valve mechanism
Clogged aerator
Another common problem with the mixer is poor pressure when the taps are fully open. The problem is usually a clogged flow aerator located at the tip of the spout.
Troubleshooting such a problem is a very simple matter.
First you need to unscrew the aerator itself. It can even succumb to the force of the hand. If not, don't worry, German
If such a measure does not help, then you can disassemble the aerator by gently prying up the plastic mesh. Small particles could enter the cavity of the device and clog the holes. You will have to work with a needle or a toothpick to clean them.
It often happens that clogging becomes “fatal” and cannot be mechanical cleaning. There is nothing to do - a removed aerator is taken for a sample and a new one is purchased.
They are not so expensive, and it is quite possible to afford periodic replacement. But if this situation occurs often, then it is worth considering that the quality tap water extremely low, it is oversaturated with solids, and requires the mandatory installation of at least mechanical filters.
This preventive measure will ensure longer operation and the entire mixer as a whole - suspended particles will not have an abrasive effect on rubber and silicone seals and on the ceramic plates of the valve mechanism.
