Insulation of external walls, theory and practice, technology and materials. Insulation for the walls of the house outside what is better for external thermal insulation The effectiveness of wall insulation outside

The reason for the external insulation is that the thermal insulation for the walls, made inside the room, does not allow the internal air to warm up the building. As a result, in the cold season, on the cooled wall, from the inside, condensation forms. Thermal insulation does not allow it to evaporate, which entails not only the formation of mold and fungus between the insulation and the wall.

A completely opposite result is obtained when the walls are insulated from the outside. In this case, the walls warm up normally even in severe frosts - thermal insulation does not allow them to cool down and at the same time they remain completely dry - after all, the insulation does not allow cold air to penetrate inside. It is for this reason that the facades are insulated, and not the walls from the inside.

But in this case, the question arises, what about the finish? Modern thermal insulation materials are great for plastering or pasting them. decorative tiles. It only requires some preparation, which was already mentioned in one of our articles. Well, what thermal insulator should be used for insulation - decide for yourself home master. We, in turn, will try to facilitate this choice and talk about the various materials used for these purposes.

There are two ways to insulate a building - apply internal insulation of the premises or make insulation for the walls of the house from the outside. What is the best heater to use? The answer is hidden in a short expression - "dew point".

Thermal insulation of the room from the outside will ensure the correct location of the dew point

The dew point is the temperature at which condensation occurs. A point with this temperature can be located in the thickness of the wall, inside it or outside. Its coordinates depend on physical properties wall materials, the thickness of their layers, as well as the external and internal temperature and humidity.

Important! The position of the dew point will be more optimal even in a completely uninsulated wall than in one that is only insulated from the inside.

The correct location of the dew point (outside the wall) can only be obtained by installing the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside, selected taking into account the properties of the material and the thermal calculation of the thickness.

Each of the types of modern insulation for the walls of the house outside has its own characteristics and price range. But their main differences are:

• low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• minimum values ​​of water absorption and vapor permeability;
• the ability to regulate the microclimate in the room;
• high sound absorption rates;
• ecological cleanliness;
• fire resistance and fire safety;
• resistance to chemical attack;

Comparative table of thermal conductivity of building materials

• resistance to biological and mechanical influences (molds, insects, rodents);
• strength and durability;
• elasticity and lack of shrinkage;
• low weight;
• the possibility of installation without seams, joints, voids;
• ability to fill complex and hard-to-reach areas;
• ease of installation.

It is also important to take into account the way in which the consumer prefers to mount insulation for the walls of the house outside. Video showing the opportunity self-fulfillment Works (as well as other manuals) in our time can be found enough.

The optimal insulation for walls is selected taking into account the material of construction

Water absorption and vapor permeability are taken into account to ensure maximum protection of the premises from moisture and are selected taking into account the characteristics of the climate and depending on the method of installation. Thermal conductivity is used to calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation material.

The most commonly used types of heaters are:

• expanded polystyrene (polystyrene);
• extruded polystyrene foam (epps, penoplex);
• polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool;
• basalt heaters;
• liquid insulation.

Styrofoam is a popular material for insulating the walls of a house from the outside.

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) is one of the modern polymeric insulation for house walls and is used as such in almost all areas of the construction industry: civil and industrial.

First of all, this material is distinguished by low coefficients of thermal conductivity (from 0.037 to 0.052 W/m*K, depending on the density) and water absorption, resistance to biological and chemical influences, and high soundproofing and windproof properties. It belongs to the group of environmentally friendly substances and is quite durable: its service life exceeds 50 years.

Fact! A layer of foam plastic with a thickness of 50 mm is equivalent to a wall of one and a half bricks in terms of the degree of heat retention.

Expanded polystyrene - easy to install and has a small weight

Other advantages include flexibility and light weight. This helps to reduce the cost of delivery and installation, ease of work, reduce the load on the walls, which, in turn, eliminates the need for additional strengthening of the foundation.

The disadvantage of expanded polystyrene is its combustibility, however, the low price makes it possible to insulate all the walls of the house from the outside with polystyrene foam.

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is one of the latest generation of thermal insulation materials. In its manufacture, graphite is used in the form of nanoparticles, which increases the strength and energy saving of the product.

Insulation of walls with foam plastic, followed by cladding with siding

The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the penoplex insulation ranges from 0.029 - 0.031 W / m * K. It is resistant to mold, chemicals, insects and rodents, and is an excellent sound insulator.

Due to this, it is possible to use penoplex as a heater outside: for walls wooden houses and other buildings, as well as inside: thermal insulation of ceilings (especially when installing "warm" floors), basements, balconies and loggias.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a type of plastic with a cellular foam structure. The mass of cells filled with air is 90% of the total weight of the product. Due to this, the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient of polyurethane foam is one of the lowest - from 0.023 to 0.041 W / m * K.

Liquid polyurethane foam creates an airtight coating with excellent vapor and waterproofing

Polyurethane foam has a high level of adhesion to all types of surfaces: concrete, brick, wood, metal - due to which an airtight coating is created with a guarantee of excellent vapor and waterproofing.

The seamless method of application (using a compressor and a hose) and high elasticity make polyurethane foam an indispensable material for blown thermal insulation when insulating walls outside of buildings of complex shapes and frame houses. Insulation for walls outside by blowing can be applied at temperatures up to 100ºС, the service life is up to 30 years.

Liquid polyurethane foam can be used as a blown insulation between the wall of the building and the cladding

The only disadvantage of the material is its high cost and the need to use expensive equipment for installation.

Mineral wool is a product of processing slag (waste from the metallurgical industry) or rocks: basalt and dolomite. Differs in durability, incombustibility, durability, environmental friendliness, elasticity, high degree of sound absorption, ease of installation and low cost. The thermal conductivity of this material is in the range of 0.034 - 0.037 W / m * K.

Mineral wool is characterized by fire resistance, environmental friendliness, high degree of sound absorption and low cost.

For insulation works, mineral wool is used in the form of basalt slabs or in rolls with a wide range of sizes. Mineral wool is used as a heater for the walls of the house outside. The dimensions of the boards produced can be as follows:

• 1000 x 600 x 50 mm;
• 7000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 9000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 10000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 10000 x 1200 x 100 mm.

Expanded polystyrene plates can have docking grooves for ease of installation

Basalt insulation is used in buildings of any purpose, in particular - for insulation in the country, wooden houses and buildings made of timber. bricks or foam blocks. It is possible to carry out work with this material at a temperature in the range from -60ºС to 220ºС, which is definitely convenient when mounted on walls from the outside.

What insulation is best for the roof different designs. Types of insulation for roofs and ceilings. Mineral and synthetic roof insulation. Mansard roof insulation.

It is most preferable to use mineral wool or basalt slabs when installing insulation for the walls of the house outside under the siding.

It is most preferable to use mineral wool to insulate the house from the outside, followed by siding.

It is also popular to use mineral wool (along with polyurethane foam) to create blown insulation. With this method, using a compressor unit, the material is blown between the wall of the house and finishing facade. which also serves as a formwork.

Liquid heat-insulating materials can be called heaters of a new generation. It is possible to use them both for thermal insulation of metal parts (pipes or frames), and as a heater for houses made of foam blocks. Outside, on the walls, these ceramic multi-component substances look like acrylic paint.

However, they differ from paint in the content of vacuumized voids (up to 80%), due to which they acquire the properties of a heat insulator.

Liquid heaters are similar to acrylic paint

Interesting! Liquid heaters have a record low coefficient of thermal conductivity (from 0.0011 to 0.0015 W / m * K). For comparison, the thermal conductivity of vacuum is 0.

With a liquid consistency, these materials do not require professional skills and sophisticated equipment for application to any surface: concrete, brick, metal, wood. They are applied using paint tools: brushes, rollers, airless spray guns - and fill all voids and crevices.

The choice of insulation for external walls. 3 options for wall insulation from the outside

Wall insulation from the outside can be carried out with different materials. There is a wide range on the market. But what is the best way to insulate the facade of the house? The answer to the question depends on several factors. And you should not always believe the manufacturer's advertising.

Warming the facade of the house with modern materials will be useless without observing the technology. This should also be taken into account when preparing for work. Before insulating the house from the outside, you need to understand the nuances of the process.

It is important not only to choose the right heat insulator, but also to comply with the insulation technology

Wall insulation can be divided into two large groups:

• inorganic;
• organic.

The second group has more representatives. This includes products of the chemical industry: expanded polystyrenes (foam plastic, foam plastic), natural ecowool. When choosing how to insulate the facade of the house from the outside, first of all, you need to pay attention to the physical properties.

Styrofoam

Such thermal insulation belongs to the class of foamed polymers. Styrofoam is highly efficient, easy to install, and isolates noise quite well. Another advantage - affordable price. But the disadvantages of such material are significantly greater. To choose the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, it is important to consider that polystyrene has such qualities as:

• combustibility;
• fragility (service life rarely exceeds 10-20 years);
• poor vapor permeability (additional ventilation of the premises will be required);
• instability to the simultaneous effects of cold and moisture (the material crumbles into separate balls);
• low strength.

Styrofoam is affordable, excellent thermal insulation, but flammable and short-lived

There is a possibility that during the aging process the material will release toxic styrene. The concentration is small, and when insulated from the outside, the substance practically does not penetrate into the room, but this property casts doubt on the manufacturer's statements about environmental friendliness.

Read more about the insulation of the facade with foam plastic.

To insulate the house from the outside with your own hands, you can use extruded polystyrene foam or, more simply, foam plastic. This material is a close relative of foam. It has all its advantages and some disadvantages. But compared to the previous version, it is devoid of such important disadvantages as:

• instability to moisture and cold;
• low strength;
• fragility.

Flammability and low vapor permeability remain. Although some manufacturers increase the fire resistance class by introducing special additives, it is not possible to obtain a completely non-combustible material.

Penoplex is a strong durable material, but it has a low fire resistance class.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the facade of a wooden house is not recommended using foam or polystyrene foam. Such buildings are valued by the owners for the naturalness of the materials and the ability of the walls to “breathe”. External insulation with polystyrene will completely block the movement of air. In this case, additional forced ventilation may even be required, since natural ventilation will not be enough. Polystyrenes can easily turn a building into a greenhouse, it is worth remembering this when deciding how to insulate a house from the outside.

Read more about facade insulation with extruded polystyrene foam.

Ecowool

Such a material deserves the title of environmentally friendly insulation, since it is completely made from cellulose fibers. External wall insulation with such material is not subject to decay and is unattractive to rodents. This can be achieved by adding minerals to the composition: boric acid and borax.

Insulation of the walls of the house is carried out in the case when the house is intended for living and the walls do not retain heat enough.

All devices for heating a house (steam, stove, gas heating) consume maximum energy, but heat is not stored.

Thermal insulation can provide a comfortable environment in the house by insulating the walls, because the wall is a vulnerable place in the house, which experiences a large wind load.

With insufficient insulation of the walls, the cold easily penetrates the house.

Insulating walls from the inside or outside is an individual decision. Less popular way of warming - from the inside. With this method, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is significantly reduced.

This disadvantage of the method plays an important role in deciding the method of thermal insulation in favor of external insulation work. In addition, there is a high probability of moisture inside the wall, especially in regions with high humidity.

Wall insulation from the outside is significantlymore often. This method requires more costs, but the internal area for living in the house is preserved, which is especially important in houses, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich is already insignificant.

Wall insulation methods

Types of thermal insulation, their advantages and disadvantages

Among the many heaters, those that are most suitable in terms of their physical characteristics and heat-insulating properties predominate.

What is the best way to make external insulation? The main types of wall insulation intended for external thermal insulation are:

• (good thermal insulator, resistant to warping, waterproof, but poor vapor permeability, risk of damage by rodents, toxic when burned);
• (low water resistance, durability, resistance to temperature extremes, but is vapor-tight, prone to rodents);
• (durable, low thermal conductivity, durability, resistance to temperature changes, no seams during application, however, it can create pressure in the cracks of the building, exposed to ultraviolet radiation, low fire safety during application);
• (an excellent heat insulator, sound insulator, non-combustible, durable, but emits harmful formaldehyde during installation);
• (waterproofing, soundproofing, environmental friendliness, durability, lack of seams, not affected by mold, rodents, however, shrinks during application, which can provoke peeling, recommended for combined insulation);
• glass wool(thermal insulation, sound insulation, not affected by mold, rodents, fire safety, moisture resistance, non-toxicity, but due to the fragility of the fibers, it requires additional protection);
• fibrolite(thermal insulation, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, fire resistance, durability, but with all the positive properties it is short-lived, not recommended for rooms with high humidity: baths, saunas);
• cork material(light, durable, non-flammable, environmentally friendly, heat insulator, sound insulator, but quite expensive). In addition, there are other materials, but they are less popular.

The choice of insulation

Differences in the insulation of aerated concrete, wooden, brick houses

From what material the walls of the house are made, the method of insulation depends. If we compare houses made of wood, brick and aerated concrete, we can distinguish following points noteworthy:

• unlike brick walls and houses made of aerated concrete, a prerequisite for installation is the installation of a crate to provide ventilation. Lathing installation block walls performed only under or other hinged cladding;
• the most suitable heaters for aerated concrete and brick walls are materials with a high moisture resistance index (foam, expanded polystyrene), while for wooden houses, breathable mineral wool boards are ideal insulation;
• the thermal conductivity of a brick wall is higher than that of aerated concrete, so the wall must either be insulated with a thicker layer of insulation, or the thickness of the brickwork must be increased;
• with external insulation of a wooden house, the surface should be carefully prepared by treating it with antiseptics;
• most often, fastening the layers of a wooden wall pie requires the installation of chipboard or OSB sheathing.

In addition, one should keep in mind all the indicators of the materials from which the walls are built, such as moisture resistance, thermal conductivity and thermal resistance.

How to calculate the thickness of insulation for walls

Before you buy a heater, you need to correctly calculate the thickness of the purchased material.

An indicator of the thickness of the material is the result of thermal resistance. The value for each region is different and is determined in accordance with the indications of SNiP.

For the region of the central part of the Eurasian continent, it is approximately equal to three.

The thickness of the insulation layer is equal to the difference between this indicator according to SNiP and the total amount of thermal conductivity of each material that is present in the wall.

To determine the thermal conductivity coefficient for each material, use the formula:

P=R/K ,

where R is the thickness of the material, K is an indicator of its thermal conductivity (the manufacturer indicates on the packaging).

After adding all the coefficients, the value is subtracted from the three. It turns out the thickness of the material necessary for insulation.

Wall pie device

Wall cake is a collection of layers of materials that are stacked vertically in a certain order.

Each layer of the pie wall has its own styling features. If the sequence of layers is violated, then there is a risk of destruction of the entire structure.

The device of a wall cake for external insulation must correspond to the order of laying materials, starting from the inside of the walls:

• interior decoration;
• internal bearing layer (drywall, sheathing);
• vapor barrier (required in frame houses);
• bearing wall;
• insulation;
• waterproofing (depending on the insulation);
• crate;
• ventilation gap (depending on the heat insulator);
• finishing.

Wooden wall cake

Such a scheme for laying materials should be followed if the house is timber, frame or log.

If the wall is brick or aerated concrete, then the wall pie is slightly different:

• interior decoration;
• Brick wall;
• insulation;
• ventilation gap (if mineral wool is used);
• load-bearing layer outside or crate (if you want to mount facade materials);
• finishing (plaster, siding, porcelain stoneware).

"Wet" wall cake

Particular importance should be given to waterproofing and vapor barrier.

Lathing installation

Lathing for external insulation is necessary when attaching siding as an external wall finish. With vertical siding, the crate is fixed horizontally, and vice versa: with horizontal - vertically.

The crate can be made of wooden beams or their metal profile.

Lathing of beams

Before proceeding with the crate, it is necessary to prepare the bars: treat with an antifungal agent.

• saw off a beam of the required size;
• fix the brackets around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws according to preliminary marking;
• fix the beam as guides on the right and left sides of the wall;
• if there is no thermal insulation, then it is necessary to fasten the beam to the wall by drilling holes for dowels and fixing it with self-tapping screws.

Run the crate along the entire wall, if it is necessary to level the surface, use special mounting wedges.

Lathing of beams

profile crate

The metal profile should be fixed with hangers and brackets.

Installation of a metal crate:

• fix the profile on the right side of the wall and on the left side so that there is at least 100 mm from the corner to the guide;
• according to the marking, drill holes for dowels and attach brackets along the entire wall;
• if thermal insulation is installed, then the insulation plates are pricked onto the brackets;
• lay the vapor barrier in the same way as a heater;
• install a metal profile along the edges of the wall;
• set the height of the profile with a thread and fix the profile along the entire wall;
• fasten stiffeners from the remains of the profile between the elements.

NOTE!

It is better to choose a metal profile for siding with curved edges.

It is best to use a good quality aluminum profile.

profile crate

Why do you need a counter-lattice

Lathing and counter lathing are concepts that are often confused. The crate is necessary for attaching the coating elements to it.

The counter grille is attached perpendicular to the crate and performs the function of ventilation and at the same time fixes the hydro-barrier.

Counter rails must be installed in the walls on the sheathing or on the rafters.

The walls of houses that are equipped with a counter-lattice are called ventilated.

With a ventilated facade, the properties of the cake materials are preserved and the formation of moisture and mold is prevented.

Installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier

When installing waterproofing outside the wall of a wooden house, it can be done:

• by applying a special solution to the walls;
• with the help of additional materials (waterproofing polyurethane foam).

If the wall is brick, then you can use special solutions or resort to an adhesive form of waterproofing: roofing material. Glue it vertically, overlapping, removing the formed air bubbles and gluing the joints with mastic.

When using decorative facing materials use a special plaster waterproofing.

Waterproofing mineral wool

When installing a vapor barrier from the outside, films should be used that protect the surface of the wall from the outside and allow moisture to pass from the side of the walls.

Installation of vapor barrier films is reduced to the rules:

• they should be laid between the insulation layer and the wall;
• provide a gap for ventilation between layers;
• overlap the film, glue the joints, fasten the film with brackets.

If the vapor barrier is installed on round bar, then there is no need to install a ventilation gap. In the case of square boards, such a need is mandatory.

External wall insulation with mineral wool for siding

For effective wall insulation with mineral wool prepare the surface for subsequent installation work : clean up debris, close up gaps, remove gutters and other decorative elements, apply markings, attach hangers.

• laying mineral wool slabs from the bottom up between the guide posts end-to-end, pushing the material onto the suspensions and attaching the dowel-nails;
• close the cracks with pieces of insulation;
• lay a vapor barrier membrane similar to a heater;
• attach racks to suspensions;
• then proceed to the lining.

Metal crate

This method is suitable for metal profiles.

If a wooden beam is used, then the mineral wool insulation is somewhat different:

• on the prepared wall, attach the bars with corners at a distance of the width of the mineral wool slab;
• the insulation is laid end-to-end between the racks, fixed with a pair of dowels, the slots are sealed with mounting foam;
• if a second layer of insulation is needed, then counter-rails are attached to the racks and mineral wool slabs are laid between them;
• the diffusion membrane is attached to the frame with staples;
• install a counter-lattice, which serves as the basis for fastening siding panels and creates an air gap in the wall cake.

Wall cake for siding

Fastening mineral wool to the wall with dowels

External insulation technology using foam

Styrofoam can be used to insulate the walls of a private house from the outside. The order of work on foam insulation provides for the sequence of work performed:

• preparation of walls (cleaning of debris, sealing cracks, primer);
• applying the necessary markup;
• attach a profile at the bottom of the wall, which will serve as the basis for even laying the first row of plates;
• attach the foam by applying an adhesive solution, starting from the bottom corner. The second row of sheets is attached in a cross order;
• after the final drying of the glue, fix the foam plastic with umbrellas;
• joints are sealed with mounting foam, if large - with pieces of foam. After solidification, the excess foam is cut off;
• for finishing slopes and corners, special corners should be used, which are glued to the reinforcing mesh tape.

Laying sheets in a checkerboard pattern

Sheet fastening

CAREFULLY!

It is better not to insulate wooden houses with foam, since with a breathing tree it is better to use a porous insulation that can pass moisture and air vapor.

In this case, mineral wool is ideal.

The main mistakes of insulation

External insulation of the walls of a country house must be carried out in accordance with the requirements and rules for the installation of materials. Errors that most often occur during insulation contribute to improper circulation of air flows and the formation of moisture inside the cake, which leads to a weakening of thermal insulation qualities:

• incorrect calculation of heat resistance;
• in the absence of a basement rail at the bottom of the wall, the insulation may come into contact with the ground;
• polystyrene foam during installation should not be left in the sun for a long time;
• gaps between the insulation plates lead to the appearance of cold bridges;
• at the corners of the building and around doors and windows, expansion dowels should be installed to securely fasten the material.

In addition, you should not save on materials, since in addition to their correct installation, the poor quality of the material should not cause poor-quality insulation.

Thus, when insulating the walls, the living area is preserved, a careful study of the details is required to calculate the amount of materials and determine the order of installation work.

Useful video

Mineral wool insulation technology in video instructions:

In contact with

When calculating the heat loss of a house, it was found that the average loss through walls is about 40% of heat, through the roof - 25%, through windows - 20% and through ventilation - 15%. According to this simple scheme, the need for high-quality wall insulation becomes clear. The technology of external wall insulation provides maximum protection of the building from heat loss through the walls, due to the fact that it takes on the cold effects of the environment.

Advantages of external wall insulation

The advantages of external insulation is the saving of space interior spaces building, protecting the wall from cooling, increasing the service life of walls made of frame material. With external wall insulation, the load on the load-bearing walls does not increase, therefore, the pressure on the foundation will remain the same.

A separate and very significant advantage of external insulation is the protection of the wall from freezing. The bottom line is that with internal thermal insulation, heat loss from inside the house is limited, but the wall itself still freezes at low air temperatures. A steam condensation zone is formed between the inner wall and the layer of heat-insulating material, while conditions are created for the development of mold, fungi, and additional cooling of the wall occurs due to moisture.

The internal insulation that has accumulated moisture does not dry out completely even in summer, a permanent zone of moisture accumulation is created, which negatively affects the service life of the walls. With external insulation, the dew point, that is, the condensation point of steam, moves into the heat-insulating material. The wall insulated from the outside is not cooled and the heat lasts much longer, its losses are minimized. External insulation easily loses accumulated moisture, thanks to which its thermal insulation properties are easily restored, and the service life of the walls increases.

Another important advantage external thermal insulation is the sound-proofing qualities of the insulation materials. If in the private sector this is not so relevant, then in a big city this quality plays an important role.

Types of materials for thermal insulation boards

The main materials for the production of plates used in external thermal insulation are mineral wool and expanded polystyrene - in everyday life referred to as polystyrene. The quality of these materials must be paid Special attention when choosing thermal insulation boards.

Mineral wool

It got its name because it consists of artificial mineral fibers. Cotton wool is divided into types depending on the origin of the raw materials from which it is made. Stone mineral wool is made from various rocks - diabase, limestone, basalt, clay, dolomite, etc. Slag wool is made from blast-furnace, open-hearth and other slags, including non-ferrous metallurgy slags.

Mineral wool insulation has a fibrous structure with a synthetic binder. Mineral wool products are produced in the form of plates and mats. The heat-insulating layer of the plates is from 50 to 100 mm. Mats are used for the installation of insulation on large working areas.

The advantages of mineral wool are in good thermal insulation properties and incombustibility. It is also very moisture resistant, resistant to damage - it does not decompose under the influence of dampness, insects. Basalt wool is resistant to decay, temperature extremes and vapor permeable. In addition, mineral wool is easy to install.

glass wool

This material is similar in properties to mineral wool, but is made from glass waste. It has high temperature tolerance. When working with glass wool, special care must be taken, be sure to work with gloves, avoid getting particles of the material on the mucous membranes and especially in the eyes.

Styrofoam

This material consists of small moisture-resistant granules, which, under the influence of high temperatures, combine with each other into a cellular structure. The foam plastic granules themselves have a huge number of microcells, which is why polystyrene foam boards are 98% air by volume. The material is the cheapest on the market at the moment, easy to use. Expanded polystyrene plates have a thickness of 50 to 100 mm. Styrofoam is also reliable in that it is moisture resistant, so rotting processes do not begin in it.

Expanded polystyrene is of two types - extruded and expanded. The first sectional view has a fine closed cellular structure. It is more often used for thermal insulation of building envelopes, insulation of walls of damp basements, garages, and other outbuildings. Expanded polystyrene foam has larger ball-like granules. In general, foam plastic has become the most popular heat insulator, due to its affordability and ease of installation. When installing this heat insulator, it is imperative to use plaster or cladding, in open form it cannot be applied.

External insulation methods

There are two main types of installation of external thermal insulation:

In our latitudes, the first method has become very popular, mainly because the installation of hinged thermal insulation is technologically more difficult, more expensive in material terms and requires specialist advice. The installation of bonded thermal insulation is much easier to perform, there is only a seasonal limitation - such work can be performed at an ambient temperature of at least + 5C.

Bonded external thermal insulation is the most pragmatic option

The option of bonded thermal insulation is very popular in Europe and is gradually becoming more widespread in our country. This method allows to reduce heat loss through the walls of the building by 80% of the initial level, which significantly saves money on energy.

The principle of this system is to install a monolithic enclosing multilayer structure, which becomes a shield in relation to the external environment. In addition to protection against heat loss, these structures exclude the so-called cold bridges in insulating structures, do not increase the load on the foundation, and provide maintainability.

It is possible to use a fastened thermal insulation system on buildings with any type of construction - block, brick, panel, frame-monolithic. For optimal performance thermal insulation structure, the requirements for the process technology and the quality of the materials themselves must be met.

The installation process of bonded thermal insulation

The bonded thermal insulation system is installed in several layers:

1. insulation - heat-insulating material in the form of a plate;
2. reinforcement - a mesh resistant to alkalis and coated with a mineral-based adhesive;
3. protective and decorative layer - plaster and primer.

Each of these layers has its specific function. The meaning of installing heat-insulating boards is clear, the reinforced layer allows adhesion of the plaster and the heat-insulating board, the primer protects the materials from environmental influences and performs its own aesthetic function.

Before installing insulation, the wall must be properly prepared. The preparation includes cleaning from dirt and dust, old plaster, eliminating irregularities so that the insulation adheres to the surface as tightly as possible. Polymer cement glue is applied to the prepared base, that is, the surface of the wall to be insulated. Glue should be chosen frost-resistant, with high adhesive ability in relation to different types of plates. The adhesion index of the adhesive to the concrete wall must be at least 1.0 MPa.

Fixing polystyrene boards

The insulation is attached to the glue, fixed with dowels. According to experts in this field, there are no trifles in thermal insulation systems. The dowels must be strong enough to withstand the load of the thermal insulation system and the force of the wind. There are 2 types of screw dowels: with a regular expansion zone, 50 mm in length, and with an extended zone, 90 mm in length. Dowels with a conventional spacer zone are used to fix the insulation on concrete and brick walls. Variants with an extended expansion zone are more suitable for walls made of hollow bricks and lightweight concrete. Dowels with a head diameter of at least 60 mm are selected.

Thermal insulation boards can be made from various materials, on which the installation process itself will depend. Materials for the production of plates are mineral wool, glass wool, expanded polystyrene. The latter material has such an unfavorable property in construction as flammability, but recently non-combustible types of expanded polystyrene have already begun to appear. This should be taken into account when choosing materials.

After applying the adhesive to the wall, the plates begin to be fixed. Glue is applied in sufficient quantity to fill all the irregularities. The insulation plate must be pressed tightly against the wall, while part of the glue is squeezed out from under it and falls under the neighboring plates, thereby strengthening the joints. The gaps between the plates can be eliminated with mounting foam. For large openings, for example, a strip of foam is glued there. Then the plates are fixed with dowels in the corners. The dowel heads and all joints between the plates must be covered with mastic.

The reinforcing layer is installed next in the process. In fact, this is a fiberglass mesh, sometimes metal. An adhesive composition is applied to the plates, pre-prepared pieces of the mesh are embedded in the glue, pressed against the plates, then pulled. They try to fasten pieces of mesh overlap for reliability. After the glue dries, it is cleaned, leveled and the decorative layer is applied. Most often it is decorative plaster, on top of which the entire structure is painted. The paint is weather resistant.

Insulation of external walls with polyurethane foam spraying

Wall insulation with polyurethane foam is today one of the modern ways to solve the issue of saving heat. Polyurethane foam has many advantages over other materials for thermal insulation. This material is prepared right before spraying on the insulated wall.

The advantages of this material:

• high quality adhesion to the surface in any of its configurations;
• the absence of seams in the process of work - this significantly saves time, improves the quality of insulation, strengthens the wall itself;
• low thermal conductivity - a layer of polyurethane foam 5 cm thick is similar in ability to retain heat to a layer of 8 cm polystyrene foam or 15 cm mineral wool;
• low weight of the material in the finished applied form - this does not create an additional load on the foundation;
• compressive and tensile strength of the material;
• no need for a vapor barrier layer - the material is so tight in its structure that it takes over the functions of a vapor barrier;
• windproof properties;
• low moisture absorption - the material practically does not absorb it even in the wettest weather;
• non-toxicity;
• good soundproofing characteristics.

PPU and its application

Polyurethane foam spraying is the application of a layer of heat-insulating polymer on surfaces with any relief, followed by hardening. IN special device two polymers are mixed - polyisocyanate and polyol, they foam with carbon dioxide while heating to high numbers, and the resulting mixture is fed into the spray gun or into the mixer. Through the sprayer, the mixture is sprayed onto the working surfaces under pressure. Filling is carried out in certain ready-made forms, after solidification, the material is removed and used according to the purposes.

wall insulation process

Wall insulation with polyurethane foam from the outside is carried out in several stages: preparing the walls, applying polyurethane foam, applying a reinforcing screed, and finishing.

Preparing walls means cleaning them of old coatings, plaster, dust, anything that can reduce the adhesiveness of the material to the wall. Polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the cleaned surface, and the thickness of its application can be adjusted, thus leveling the depressions and protrusions.

Then a reinforcing screed is applied to the surface of the heat insulator layer, for this a fine fiberglass mesh is used. The thickness of the reinforcement layer must be at least 60 mm. Then you can lay finishing materials - siding, lining, panels, paint.

Before spraying itself, you need to think about protecting all surrounding surfaces from unnecessary application of the material, because it is very difficult to clean polyurethane foam even with strong solvents.

Warm plaster for external insulation of facades

Warm plaster is a mixture based on cement with the addition of filler. The latter can be vermiculite - a light mineral filler, expanded polystyrene elements, and sawdust. Warm plaster with sawdust in the composition is not suitable for facades and is used only when interior decoration. The compositions for finishing facades include expanded polystyrene, pumice powder, expanded clay chips as fillers.

When choosing a heater, several of its properties are taken into account: thermal conductivity, which must be low to retain heat, hydrophobicity to prevent moisture from entering, vapor permeability - so that the material layer passes water vapor and does not condense. The presence of porous materials helps warm plaster retain the ability to "breathe", pass moisture and air.

In warm plaster, all the necessary qualities are combined. It does not accumulate moisture, is durable, fire-resistant, and environmentally friendly. As a heater, it can be used for finishing facades, including those decorated with decorative elements that need to be preserved, for insulating slopes, filling joints and cracks, and masonry.

Application of warm plaster

Warm plaster is quickly applied, does not require the use of reinforcing mesh (although in some methods it is used for greater insulation strength), does not require wall alignment, since it is quite plastic in texture and alignment can be done directly by the material itself. Warm plaster is adhesive to all materials of building structures, biologically stable, vapor permeable.

The technique of applying such plaster does not differ from the usual plastering technology. For greater smoothness, the wall can be additionally sanded with an emery mesh or puttied.

In what cases can warm plaster be used?

If you pay attention to expanded polystyrene, which has a lot of positive properties and is also easy to use, you need to know that insulation systems using polystyrene are prohibited in some cases, for example, when insulating buildings with increased fire safety requirements - hospitals, schools, kindergartens, car washes etc. Expanded polystyrene has low vapor permeability, due to which moisture will accumulate in the room. For some purposes, this may be a plus.

Unlike this material, warm plaster is non-toxic, non-flammable, and has high vapor permeability. It is quite possible to apply it on the buildings of medical institutions, public buildings of a children's profile. It is suitable for complex facades, the contours of uneven surfaces do not show through it, as through the polystyrene foam layer. Warm plaster is able to both insulate and give an aesthetic and beautiful look to the room.

Warm plaster is multifunctional, it is suitable not only for wall insulation, but also for floor screed, sealing joints, potholes, cracks. It can be used to fill flat roof slabs. It can also be used to fill floors, while preparing them for the floor covering and providing thermal insulation.

Cons of this method

Flaws warm plaster in that it cannot be a top coat, a primer and paint must be applied on top of it. It cannot be a sanitizing material, so the surface must be dry before applying it. Soundproofing after its application is also negligible.

It must be taken into account that warm plaster has a much higher density compared to the same polystyrene foam or mineral wool, and this figure is 5-10 times higher. Therefore, insulation using this method requires a solid foundation that can withstand such a load. Further, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of this type of plaster is 1.5-2 times higher than that of other materials, so the insulation layer should be the same 1.5-2 times thicker. And since it can be applied with a layer of no more than 50 mm, it will be necessary to insulate both outside and inside for better heat preservation.

One way or another, the decision in each specific situation can be made individually. Advantages and disadvantages are very relative things. And the warmth in the house is an eternal concept.

Finishing coatings for external wall insulation

When insulating walls, there are no trifles - this is what experts working in this field say. Plaster, reinforcing mesh, dowels, paints - all these are the little things that you should pay attention to in the same way as the main materials for facade insulation.

Reinforcing meshes

As the basis for the reinforcing layer, a glass mesh is most often used, the cell size is 5x5 mm and weighing from 1500 to 200 g/m 2 . The mesh must be treated with a special alkali-resistant compound. At the corners of the building, in places where the heat-insulating layer is adjacent to architectural details - cornices, parapets - here experts advise reinforcing not glass, but metal mesh with greater rigidity. This is done in order to strengthen the entire insulation structure.

Responsibly, you need to approach the quality of the selected adhesive compositions. Manufacturer recommends glue certain brand, the composition that best ensures the fastening of certain materials. Trying to replace with cheaper options can sometimes be too costly - up to and including redoing the facade.

Plasters

The requirements for plaster are very strict, since it is this material that is exposed to all environmental influences - fluctuations in temperature, humidity, and the action of chemical compounds that are in the air. The outer layer must be resistant to all kinds of influences and be vapor-permeable, not retain moisture in the thickness of the insulation.

Thin-layer decorative plasters and facade paints are divided into 4 groups:

Polymer cement plasters have high vapor permeability, these are the so-called "breathable" options. They are non-combustible, adhesive to mineral substrates, adhesion coefficient not less than 1.0 MPa, frost-resistant. They are used for insulation with polystyrene and mineral wool. Economical to use.

Acrylic plasters due to the synthetic base are quite elastic and resistant to deformation. They are used for insulation with polystyrene foam. They are resistant to high humidity, absorb moisture very weakly even in conditions of constant precipitation. They are available in a wide range of colors and are immediately ready for use after release.

Silicate plasters are also resistant to deformation, have high vapor permeability, and have a large selection of colors. Silicone plasters are resistant to precipitation, hydrophobic. Surfaces treated with them are slightly contaminated. This quality can be used when decorating houses in large industrial cities.

In addition to the composition, decorative plasters have a different texture. The texture depends on the grain size of the plaster. For example, the “bark beetle” texture has a grain size of 2-3.5 mm, due to which the surfaces resemble tree bark. Mosaic plasters have a grain size of 0.8-2 mm. The filler in these plasters is colored quartz sand or small pebbles. When such plaster hardens, it resembles a glass surface.

Finishing work should be carried out at a temperature not lower than +5 C, and within 24 hours the temperature should not fall below 0C. The plaster must not be applied in strong winds, under the open sun, in the rain, because the plaster needs certain conditions for it to dry so that it lasts longer.

The requirements for facade paints are similar to those for plaster - wear resistance under the influence of high and low temperatures, moisture, sunlight, and so on. The service life of enamels on the market based on organosilicon resins is about 30 years, polyurea - more than 50 years. By choosing the right facade paint, you can save a lot on periodic re-painting.

External thermal insulation of wooden houses

Wood is considered the most environmentally friendly material for building houses, although now such construction can mainly be found only in the private sector. For outdoor insulation wooden structures thermal insulation with protective and ventilating properties is used, and for ventilation a gap is provided between the outer skin and the insulation.

The process of installing thermal insulation

Thermal insulation of a wooden building consists of the following elements:

Before starting work on the thermal insulation of the house, it is necessary to treat the surface of the walls with an antiseptic and a flame retardant - a drug that prevents fire. Existing gaps must be closed, caulked with tow or mounting foam. Then the crate is installed on the wall.

Needed for framing wooden bars, which are pre-impregnated with an antiseptic to prevent decay. The thickness of the bars is 50 mm, their width must exceed the thickness of the web of insulating material. For example, with an insulating material thickness of 80 mm, the thickness of the bars must be at least 100 mm in order to provide an air gap. The distance between the bars is made according to the size of the selected insulation, that is, the width of the plate. Insulation plates are placed in the openings between the beams, then attached to the load-bearing wall with anchors.

vapor barrier

Before laying the insulation, a vapor barrier layer is mounted. Vapor barrier materials are selected according to the type of construction and installation method. The vapor barrier materials themselves are of the following types:

1. aluminum foil with a layer of polyethylene;
2. polyethylene reinforcing mesh, covered with a film;
3. polymer-coated kraft paper;
4. kraft paper with aluminum foil;
5. polymer fabric with double-sided lamination.

The vapor barrier can be mounted both vertically and horizontally from the inside of the heat-insulating structure. Installation is done using galvanized nails or a stapler. The seams of the vapor barrier layer must be completely sealed, the film must be intact, otherwise the movement of water vapor will be allowed, moisture will accumulate inside the structure. The seams between the pieces of vapor barrier are sealed with special tapes based on butyl rubber. Also, strips of material can be overlapped.

The next in the process are installed insulation boards, expanded polystyrene or mineral wool, in the direction from the bottom up, the insulation is fastened with a dowel-fungus. Waterproofing is mounted on the insulation - a special membrane, which is attached using a construction stapler. It can be such materials as: combined polymer, film based on kraft paper coated with aluminum, kraft paper with impregnation, three-layer polypropylene. It is necessary to observe the location of the front and back sides of the material, otherwise, instead of insulating, it will turn into moisture-permeable, which will lead to dampness.

The final stage is the fastening of a 50X50 mm beam with nails and surface cladding. You can clad with clapboard, plastic siding, facade panels to choose from. A mandatory gap of 2-4 cm is left between the layer of waterproofing and cladding.

External wall insulation, insulation methods and types of materials

External insulation: advantages and methods. Types of materials for thermal insulation boards. Bonded external thermal insulation and spraying with polyurethane foam.

Wall insulation outside the house or apartment - types and choice of insulation, do-it-yourself installation

The facade of residential buildings cannot always withstand winter frosts and piercing winds, which makes it feel cold inside. Warming the house from the outside will help protect the building from moisture, keeping hot air indoors. In the article, you will learn what external wall insulation is, how to increase the temperature inside a wooden house, and what is the difference between thermal insulation with mineral wool and foam plastic.

What is wall insulation

A common way to save energy is insulation - thermal insulation for walls outside or inside a building, made with special materials. By insulating the facade of the apartment, you will get rid of the fungus, increase noise protection, and establish thermoregulation - it will be cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Insulation not only becomes a barrier between cold air and the internal microclimate of the dwelling, but also protects the building from moisture and the sun, increasing its service life.

Ways to insulate walls from the outside

Distinguish between internal and external insulation of the walls of the house. The second type of thermal insulation is more effective than the first, since it does not reduce the area of ​​​​the room, removes condensate from the internal walls, and retains heat longer. There are four ways of facade thermal insulation:

1. facing - a method that combines thermal insulation with decorative trim;
2. hinged - an expensive method that uses insulated structures made of steel sheets and a layer of cladding (plastic siding, wooden lining, blockhouse);
3. "wet" - a method that involves fixing the foam to the facade with glue, applying a mesh, finishing primer and plaster;
4. liquid insulation spraying - polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the facade, a decorative coating or hinged panels are applied to it.

House insulation

Through the wall facade goes up to 50% home warmth therefore, home insulation is a necessary procedure for those who want to maintain a comfortable microclimate in their home and save on electricity. When choosing a heater for the walls of the house outside, you should focus on the wall material, since concrete, brick, wooden and block structures are used different technologies thermal insulation. Thermal insulation of a private house is cheaper than apartments in a multi-storey building.

Warming of apartments

If you live in apartment building with a central heating system, warming the apartment from the outside is the best option, which will help to avoid additional costs for maintaining a comfortable temperature in the room with the help of electricity. By insulating the apartment, you can solve the problem of sealing seams in panel skyscrapers. Not all inhabitants high-rise building agree to insulate their homes, so often apartments are insulated pointwise, which can lead to the destruction of the main wall at the junctions with the insulated surface.

wall insulation

It is necessary to choose the right materials for wall insulation from the outside, taking into account what the building is built from, how many floors it has, what the climatic features of the area are. The microclimate of the room completely depends on the choice of materials and the quality of installation. Heaters are distinguished according to the following criteria:

• thermal conductivity;
• durability;
• fire resistance;
• sound insulation;
• air tightness;
• water resistance;
• environmental safety;
• biostability.

External insulation gives the desired result only if the heat-insulating materials fit snugly against the frame of the room, without air gaps. There are such types of insulation for walls outside:

Foam insulation

Styrofoam wall insulation is gaining more and more popularity. This material is lightweight, inexpensive, easy to work with. The obvious advantages of polystyrene are moisture resistance, high sound insulation, and excellent thermal insulation properties. The disadvantages of the material are the ability to ignite with the release of toxic substances, brittleness, poor breathability. Before installation, you need to draw horizontal lines working surface, which will become the lower and upper edges of the insulation placement. The foam is fixed to a special adhesive solution.

Warming with mineral wool

A common method of thermal insulation is wall insulation with mineral wool. This is a fibrous material made from mineral raw materials, non-flammable, well breathable. The mineral wool is suitable for mounting on building structures of all kinds. The material is resistant to caustic substances, but absorbs water, so it needs a special waterproofing system. mineral wool has long term operation - up to 70 years.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

One of better ways thermal insulation is considered to be the insulation of the building from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam, the second name of which is "foam". The material is slightly denser than foam, less combustible, durable. Expanded polystyrene is waterproof, resistant to deformation. One of the downsides is poor soundproofing. Penoplex is produced in the form of plates that must be fixed without gaps in order to protect the insulation from damage by rodents.

Wall insulation with polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation of the house from the outside with polyurethane foam is carried out by spraying the material onto the prepared facade. The use of this substance as a heater has the following advantages:

• the material, expanding, fills the cracks and small depressions;
• polyurethane foam has good adhesion - it adheres perfectly to the base, covering the surface without joints, with a continuous layer;
• the substance becomes strong after hardening;
• it has increased moisture resistance;
• polyurethane foam serves as an excellent sound insulator.

Warming with basalt slabs

Reliable insulation of the external walls of the house is provided by environmentally friendly basalt slabs made of mineral wool. The material does not ignite, has excellent windproof and cold-resistant abilities, does not accumulate moisture. The implementation of thermal insulation with basalt slabs allows for almost any facade decoration. Installation of the material has a simple technology, so you can carry it out yourself. The outer thickness of the material is deceptive - you can even cut it with a kitchen knife.

How to insulate the house from the outside and how

External wall insulation will significantly reduce heat loss inside the room. The choice of materials and thermal insulation technology depends on the specific conditions - the house is made of brick or wood, the attic or basement will be insulated. Having insulated the facade correctly, you will make your house warm, protect the room from the formation of fungus, mold, dampness and isolate your home from extraneous street noise.

How to insulate wooden house outside and what

A house made of wood has some advantages over stone housing or a brick building - the cost is lower, environmental friendliness is higher. The main disadvantages are: low thermal conductivity of the timber, small wall thickness and the presence of gaps between them. Insulation of the walls of a wooden house can be carried out by constructing a hinged ventilation facade with mineral wool, spraying polyurethane or sheathing the facade with polystyrene foam. When insulating a country house made of wood, you need to take care of the vapor barrier and waterproofing. Insulation for the exterior walls of the house will allow:

• transform the facade;
• protect the tree from the adverse effects of the environment;
• improve thermal efficiency;
• save the interior space of the rooms;
• prevent the occurrence of dampness, mold;
• protect from cold winds.

Warming brick house outside with modern methods

In order to maintain a stable comfortable temperature in the house all year round, it is recommended to insulate the brick walls from the outside. When choosing a heater, one should take into account what kind of brick the building is built from (hollow, solid, ceramic, silicate). Brick houses are often insulated using a hinged ventilated facade or a “wet” method. As a heater, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam are used.

How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside inexpensively

Often people wonder how to cheaply insulate a house from the outside. If you don’t know how cheaper it is to insulate the house from the outside, pay attention to the foam. This insulation may be a little inferior to others in terms of thermal insulation, but it does a good job of maintaining a comfortable temperature. The material has excellent thermal conductivity and moisture resistance, its main disadvantage is flammability. It is easy to work with polystyrene, so you can buy material and try to insulate your home on your own, saving on paying for the work of craftsmen.

Price for wall insulation outside

Thermal insulation of housing is not a cheap pleasure. If you calculate the cost of heating a building with electricity, it becomes clear that the price of the service will soon pay for itself. The calculation of the cost of thermal insulation is carried out taking into account the selected materials, the complexity of the work, the size of the insulated area. Find out in the table below how much it costs to insulate a house outside in Moscow, and how the price of the service differs in different construction companies.

Insulation of walls outside a house or apartment - types and choice of insulation, installation technology with video

Wall insulation from the outside is an opportunity to create a comfortable microclimate in the house. Learn about the types of insulation, methods of thermal insulation and prices for it, use the tips from the video.

External wall insulation advantages and disadvantages

Today, walking along the street, you will hardly find at least one house where external wall insulation has not yet been made. The result of such work is easily recognizable - the dwelling in some areas is “sheathed” with colored foam boards. Recently, the number of apartments, the owners of which have decided to resort to this method, is increasing. Let's look at the principle of external insulation, find out the reasons for its popularity, as well as the pros and cons of this type of work.

The problem of heat and moisture insulation

Now more and more residents are faced with the problem of heat and moisture insulation. Basically, this applies to old houses, the service life of which is more than 20 years, because new buildings are usually rented already with insulation. As a result of such problems, the temperature in the apartment drops sharply in winter, which leads to an increase in heating costs. In summer, on the contrary, the room is stuffy, the air is hot and stale. Also, due to the accumulation of moisture, mold or fungal formations can appear on the walls, which are quite difficult to fight.

External wall insulation

One of the most common solutions is external (external) wall insulation . Now we will look at the main advantages and disadvantages of this method, but first you need to understand a little about its essence.

How is external wall insulation carried out?

So, how is external wall insulation carried out? The main element of the insulating structure, as a rule, is expanded polystyrene (polystyrene). Specialists in the field of industrial mountaineering paste over the walls of apartments with slabs of this material. In addition to foam, waterproofing fiberglass mesh, glue, primer, paint and dowels are also used for insulation. The insulation technology consists of several (5-7) stages, and the whole process takes from one to five days (mainly, the duration is explained by the amount of time required for the glue to dry at the intermediate stages). First, the preparation of the working surface is carried out - cleaning and priming the walls. Then, in fact, the foam is fixed. At the next stage, a reinforced mesh is installed, which is covered with an adhesive mixture. At the end, priming, plastering and painting the walls are carried out.

Advantages of external wall insulation

The main advantages of external wall insulation include, first of all, the possibility of eliminating the problems listed at the beginning of the article. That is, after producing high-quality insulation, the temperature in your apartment will stabilize (it will become warm in winter, cool in summer), which means that the cost of heating and cooling rooms will be reduced; the troubles associated with the removal of moisture will disappear (wallpaper will stop peeling off and paint will stop falling off, dampness, mold and fungus will disappear). Expanded polystyrene prevents the corrosion of steel reinforcement and the destruction of concrete by restricting access to the walls of water, carbon dioxide and other aggressive substances, as well as by preventing temperature changes, the durability of insulated walls increases.

TO additional pluses consider a significant improvement in sound insulation (in particular, up to 90-95% of extraneous street noise disappears) and a more respectable appearance.

Also, after carrying out the external insulation of the walls, in contrast to the similar internal version, the living space of the room is not reduced (which, when internal insulation can be reduced by up to 5% of the entire apartment).

Disadvantages of external wall insulation

It should be immediately noted that the number of shortcomings directly depends on the quality of the materials used for insulation and on compliance with the rules for performing work. Therefore, shortcomings are considered in the classic case - when the work is done "according to the instructions." Simply put, craftsman errors or expired glue will not be taken into account.

The main disadvantage is the impossibility of carrying out external wall insulation at any time. The following conditions must be met: the air temperature is at least 5 degrees C, and preferably from 20 degrees C, the air humidity is approximately 60% (it is advisable to carry out work in summer in hot weather, it is strictly forbidden to do this in winter when sub-zero temperature); the absence of strong gusts of wind, due to which the glue or primer dries too quickly and cracks can form; and, of course, during the entire period of work there should be no precipitation.

As already mentioned, external wall insulation is a rather lengthy process, moreover, it requires not the easiest work of industrial mountaineering masters. Agree, for several days in a row to watch how strangers hanging in front of your windows - that's another sight.

A separate drawback is the price. With a total area of ​​​​the insulated surface of 15-25 m2 and an average cost of 650 rubles (220 UAH) / m2, all work will cost about 10,000-17,000 rubles (3,500-5,500 UAH). True, the costs pay off in about 5 years.

So if you are not worried that after a long wait you will shell out a tidy sum, and the walls of your apartment will stand out in green, pink, blue or other colors against the rest of the nondescript house, if you are tired of struggling with temperature and humidity, and you are sure that the outside wall insulation is exactly what you need, then feel free to choose the right company. Fortunately, there are plenty to choose from.

External wall insulation advantages and disadvantages photo and video

// Contents[Hide]The problem of heat and moisture insulationExternal wall insulationHow is external wall insulation carried out?The advantages of external insulation…

External Wall Insulation Guide

• • The choice of insulation
  • Surface preparation
  • How to fix the insulation
  • Reinforcement of insulation

For external wall insulation, there are different options for execution. External wall insulation is classified according to the selected insulation and the method of manufacturing the heat-insulating layer. The heat-insulating layer can be ventilated, completely covered by an external wall, or only plastered.

It is best to insulate the walls from the outside during the construction phase of the building.

There are a sufficient number of heaters to choose the right one for you. The difference in the labor intensity of the processes does not really determine the quality of work so much that it is always required to use hired labor.

You can easily perform external insulation with your own hands, if you know what stages this process consists of.

Independent wall insulation

Do-it-yourself external insulation with a ventilated facade design is much more difficult than using a multi-layer wall or insulation with plastering and painting finish. Since a multilayer wall involves the installation of an additional wall on top of the insulation, for example, brickwork, which requires knowledge of certain nuances, you should consider the most affordable, but no less functional and quality option: insulate the external walls of the house with insulation and finishing. First you need to choose a heater that will provide the desired thermal conductivity characteristics for the walls.

The choice of insulation

Wall insulation with foam.

Insulation is the main part of external wall insulation, but in such a process, if you want to do the insulation yourself, you do not need to think about the choice for a long time, and this is a rather pleasant fact. Heaters currently offered, such as

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• cellulose insulation;
• basalt slabs.

have indistinguishable characteristics. The main difference between them lies in three basic parameters: thermal conductivity, vapor permeability and moisture resistance.

Different heaters have different parameters, which may differ depending on the manufacturer. In this regard, it will be necessary to make calculations of the heat release by the building and understand what thickness of insulation to use. Expanded polystyrene and mineral wool require less thickness, and it is much easier to install them yourself.

The thermal conductivity parameters are indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer, and if you provide the sellers with the parameters of your own insulated building (material and thickness of the walls, heating, the presence of windows, the ceilings used, the foundation), then they will be able to calculate the required amount of insulation for you. As for vapor permeability and moisture resistance, you should focus on weather conditions, that is, determine how significant the moisture and temperature changes are during the year and choose the option that is best for you.

Surface preparation

Scheme of wall insulation from the outside.

In order to fix the insulation, specialized adhesive mixtures are used to provide the desired adhesion. Accordingly, on preparatory stage it is necessary not so much to create adhesion for the walls, but simply to align them so that the insulation fits fairly evenly and no significant differences are created between the seams.

As a rule, the walls of each house are more or less even and do not require thorough polishing. If the differences are insignificant, then additional leveling is not required, because subsequent layers of plaster and finish will level it. If there are significant distortions, additional tools for surface preparation should be used, for example, elementary grinding discs.

A primer is applied to the surface of the leveled exterior walls. If the walls are uneven, it is advisable to use a couple of layers, and apply the next layer only after the initial one has dried.

Any mixtures that contain water in their composition change their own qualities depending on temperature. This also applies to adhesive mixtures on which insulation is planted. It is important to take this fact into account and perform work only at an air temperature of five degrees Celsius.

How to fix the insulation

Scheme of a section of a wall insulated with foam plastic.

When the primer on the walls of the house is completely dry, layers of thermal insulation should be laid. To install the bottom layer, you will need to fix a metal guide along the perimeter of the walls, which is installed approximately above the basement of the building. Anchors or dowels are used for fastening (depending on the availability of certain tools you have and the quality of the walls).

Next, the installation of a home insulation begins, the description of which is proposed below. The adhesive mixture is kneaded (consultants who helped you choose insulation and other materials and components will help you choose) and install thermal insulation plates. For example, you can take the foam, which is easy to install with your own hands and does not require any extraordinary skills.

The adhesive mixture is applied only to the foam (or other insulation), but not to the walls. A couple of centimeters are indented from the edges, and the mixture is evenly distributed around the perimeter, and in the center of the resulting contour, 2-3 slides of the mixture are made with a spatula with a diameter of about 100-120 millimeters. Such tiles are applied to the walls of the house and the subsequent ones continue to be applied using this technology.

What makes materials such as foam and mineral wool great is the ease of molding. It is not difficult to cut a piece of the size you need, and this is good, given the need to make a fireproof mineral wool contour around the perimeter of windows.

When laying the foam, you should leave about twenty centimeters to the perimeter of the windows and make this perimeter from mineral wool in the same way as previously described. Of course, if you use refractory materials for all insulation, then you will not need this. Such circuits are used only if insulation is made with flammable material, as this complies with existing standards.

In order for the external thermal insulation of the walls to have strength, dowels with a clamping element are additionally used (this is a plastic circle that allows you to press the largest amount of insulation with a dowel). Dowels should be installed at least between the seams of the foam, so that the sheets fit snugly. Previously, holes are drilled in the walls of the house through the materials used to fit the length of the dowel, and then they are driven in with a hammer.

So that the insulation of the outer wall is not subjected to deformations from external influences, the external slopes are additionally reinforced with perforated metal squares. The squares are fixed to the adhesive mixture, which fixed the materials.

Reinforcement of insulation

The next stage of insulation is reinforcement, for which a specialized fiberglass reinforcing mesh is used. First, a layer of adhesive mixture is made, and then the mesh is carefully applied with their own hands throughout the entire space of the insulation. Moreover, the mesh should be drowned in the adhesive mixture, and the seams should only be overlapped.

The reinforced surface is covered with a new layer of glue and carefully smoothed. So the reinforcing mesh does not protrude above the surface and is located in the depth of the adhesive mass.

The final stage of external insulation

As a rule, it takes about a couple of days for the reinforcing layer to dry completely. Next, the surface is primed and putty applied for painting or decorative plaster, depending on the type of further finishing.

Making external wall insulation with your own hands is quite simple, and for this process you will need no more than a week, as well as affordable materials that are easy to purchase in a specialized store, and a minimum of skills.

Do-it-yourself external wall insulation: a guide (photo and video)

How to perform external insulation of the walls of the house with your own hands? How to choose the most high-quality and affordable method, select materials for thermal insulation and install them?

30% of the heat from the house goes through the walls. This has been proven by research. Therefore, in order to reduce heat loss, it is recommended, and not from the inside. Firstly, internal thermal insulation is a reduction in the space of rooms. Secondly, the dew point passes under the insulation, that is, between the wall and the heat-insulating layer. This means that the wall will freeze through, which will affect its technical condition. Today, manufacturers of thermal insulation materials offer a wide range of their products. But the question of which one to choose does not become less relevant. Insulation for the walls of the house outside (price, specifications, installation methods) is the most important component of construction. Therefore, his choice must be approached with special care.

Read in the article

Criteria for choosing insulation for the exterior walls of the house

The main indicator by which you need to make a choice,. The smaller it is, the better. The second criterion is hygroscopicity. This property is referred to as - to absorb moisture. The thing is that moist air vapors that have penetrated inside at low temperatures will begin to turn into ice, which will negate all the characteristics of the heat-insulating material. They learned to deal with this by covering the insulation layer on both sides with vapor and waterproofing films. But this is another material cost. Although in some cases this is not enough.

The third criterion is strength. The outer side of the wall is a section that is often subjected to various loads, including mechanical ones. And although the heat-insulating layer will still need to be closed, this does not mean that the strength of the insulation must be approached from the position - "this is an unimportant component."

The fourth rule of choice is the price of the product. There is a fairly wide range, in which there are both very cheap materials and very expensive ones. Of course, the quality determines the price. But there are offers on the market in which the price-quality ratio is within the optimal limits. Therefore, it is worth understanding all the proposed heaters and choosing not the most expensive, but with good technical and operational characteristics.

Types of thermal insulation materials for wall insulation outside

Thermal insulation for walls outside - these are several modern materials belonging to the categories of fibrous and cellular.

1. The group of the first includes mineral wool: stone, glass, slag. The first is made from various rocks, which are melted and drawn into threads, then they are woven in a chaotic manner. For the second, the raw material is glass, for the third, waste from blast furnaces (slags). Three species have an increased coefficient of hygroscopicity.
2. The second group includes polymeric materials, which receive a cellular structure during the production process. It can be closed or open. The first option is better, because such heaters do not absorb moisture.

Consider a few basic insulation for walls outside, denote their technical characteristics.

Characteristics	glass wool	slag	Stone
Thermal conductivity, W/(m×K)	0.03÷0.052	0.046÷0.048	0.035÷0.041
Maximum heating temperature, °C	500	300	600
Water absorption, %	2÷3	2	1÷2
Fiber thickness, microns	5÷15	4÷12	3÷5
Fiber length, mm	15÷50	16	5÷10

The table shows those characteristics that are not related to the density of the material. Because manufacturers offer models with different densities, hence the purpose of each brand. For example, P-75 insulation has a density of 75 kg / m³. Such wool is recommended to be used for thermal insulation of surfaces that are not subjected to large mechanical loads. That is, for the insulation of walls outside the house, this option is just right. Although it is necessary to take into account the fact that this material does not have the highest strength. It is optimal for reinforced concrete walls to use PZh-175 cotton wool.

Attention! Mineral wool is produced in rolls and in mats. For thermal insulation of walls, it is better to use the second form of manufacture.

Manufacturers today, for example, offer basalt wool in mats, one edge that compresses well, but straightens out when installed between frame elements. Thus, the material fits snugly to the frame, without creating cold bridges.

Polymer cellular insulation

The most famous insulation from this category is foam. In fact, these are polystyrene plates, in which the source material is only 2%, the rest is air. Hence the good thermal insulation performance, and low strength, and low price.

It should be noted that the foam that is used as packaging cannot be called a heater. That is, speaking of insulation for the exterior walls of the house, one must mean modified polystyrene foam boards.

Modified polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene boards for thermal insulation differ from packing polystyrene with increased density. The second is made by the non-pressing method, hence its low strength characteristics. Expanded polystyrene plates are molded under pressure using high temperatures, thereby increasing their density, and, accordingly, their strength.

There is also the so-called extruded polystyrene foam in this category, its prominent representative is the plates produced under the brand name. This is still the same polymer insulation, only the technology of its production is based on the melting of the feedstock, followed by the addition of a foaming agent and pressure molding, or rather, extrusion. This process is called extrusion. Wherein this technology allows you to cast any shape of the product, not just plates.

So, let's compare three foam polystyrene insulation; non-pressed - PSB, pressed - PS, extruded - XPS.

Characteristics	PSB	PS	EPS
Thermal conductivity, W/(m×K)	0.032÷0.036	0.032÷0.035	0,032
Density, kg/m³	15÷50	25÷45	25÷45
Compressive strength, MPa	0.07÷0.38	0.15÷0.25	0,2
Bending strength, MPa	0.15÷0.42	0.2÷0.25	0,25
Water absorption, %	8÷10	4	0,4

Now, as for the insulation of the house from the outside with foam, that is, a non-pressed model. This material has a high water absorption rate. Therefore, in any case, it will have to be closed. Warming the house outside with Penoplex is an opportunity not only not to close the heat-insulating layer with waterproofing, but also to apply wet types of finishes to it: and.

Again, pay attention to density. All other parameters depend on it. The denser the plate, the higher the quality of its characteristics.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is the most the best insulation with the lowest thermal conductivity - 0.019 ÷ 0.03 W / (m × K). At the same time, the polymer has other high characteristics:

• does not absorb water;
• does not let steam through;
• high chemical resistance;
• attaches to any building materials without additional fasteners;
• low G1, some types of PPU are self-extinguishing types;
• material density is 30÷80 kg/m³;
• service life of at least 30 years.

Attention! Polyurethane foam is prepared at the construction site by combining two components: polyol and isocyanate. Mixing with each other, they form a liquid mixture, which is applied to the wall for thermal insulation. In the air, the insulation turns into a solid and durable material.

That is, for carrying out heat-insulating measures with polyurethane foam, special equipment is needed, where the mixing of the two components is carried out. The insulation itself is applied under pressure to the insulated surfaces.

Alternative solutions - liquid wall insulation

The term "liquid insulation" for walls and other structures is just slang among the inhabitants. This material is a mastic or, which includes:

• hollow microgranules in the form of spheres (0.02÷0.1 mm in diameter) made of ceramics, glass, polymers;
• microporous particles of titanium dioxide;
• binder, acrylic or latex is more often used.

Since the consistency of the material is liquid, it is applied to the treated surfaces in the usual ways: with a brush, roller or spray gun. At the same time, a small film thickness is formed on the surfaces - at least 1 mm. And it is enough to talk about thermal protection.

But why such a thin coating creates the effect of warming. Here you need to understand in what ways heat flows through the walls of the house.

1. thermal conductivity of the wall. That is, heat is transferred from a heated material to a cold one. In liquid thermal insulation, only binding ingredients can transfer heat. And they are only 20% in the volume of insulation.
2. Convection. There are no options here, because in the composition of the heat-insulating material a large volume is occupied by granules filled with air.
3. Radiation. This is the transfer of thermal energy due to the energy state of the substance itself. Inside the mastic, 90% are balls that reflect thermal energy. That is, the material applied to the walls of the house creates the effect of a thermos.

Today, manufacturers of liquid thermal insulation offer different compositions that are used for different building structures. Since materials for wall insulation from the outside are being dismantled, it is necessary to choose a mastic intended for application to the facade of the building. Its name necessarily contains the word "Facade". For example, Korund-Facade, Bronya-Facade. Although many universal thermal paints can be used for thermal insulation of the external walls of buildings.

Here are the technical characteristics of Korund-Facade:

Characteristics	Paint Korund-Facade
Thermal conductivity, W/(m×K)	0,0012
Heat transfer, W/(m²×K)	4
Vapor permeability, mg/(m×h×Pa)	0,03
Water absorption, %	2
Service life on concrete surfaces, years	10
Bending elasticity of the film, mm	1
Resistance to temperature changes, °С	-60 to +120
Paint application temperature, °C	+7
Adhesion, score	1

Ventilated facades

IN modern construction two varieties are used:

1. Traditional when applied directly to the wall surface with different fixing methods.
2. ventilated- this is when a gap remains between the wall and the cladding, which acts as ventilation. With its help, wet vapors and condensate are removed from the wall surface.

So in the first case, when the task is to insulate the wall, moisture-resistant materials are used. These include polystyrene foam boards made using extrusion technology. That is, if the question is raised of choosing a heater for the walls of the house outside under, then Penoplex is used. It is simply glued to the wall with a special adhesive or fastened with mushroom-shaped self-tapping screws. Polyurethane foam behaves well under wet coatings.

As for ventilated facades, any insulation from the above can be used here. Because this design, firstly, it is a frame, and secondly, it is possible to fix it in the form of a membrane, which will keep the insulation from the negative effects of moisture.

For example, how to properly use mineral wool in ventilated insulated facades.

1. The frame is stuffed onto the wall - these are vertical wooden ones, the distance between which should be slightly less than the width of the basalt mat.
2. A vapor barrier film with sag is laid. That is, it is attached to the frame, but the main canvas must be adjacent to the surface of the wall.
3. Insulation is placed between the elements of the crate.
4. over frame structure the waterproofing membrane is stuffed.
5. According to the elements of the frame, exactly the same bars are installed and fastened.
6. On them, the cladding is mounted in the form of, and other sheet or panel products.

Three-layer wall construction

This wall insulation technology has been known for a long time. In fact, these are two walls, between which heat-insulating material is laid. The option is very good, but with some requirements specifically for the insulation, because this layer must work for a long time. Getting close to it if replacement or repair is required will be difficult, and often impossible. So there are two main requirements:

1. The material must be resistant to shrinkage. This can only be ensured by polystyrene boards of the PS or EPS brand with a density of at least 45 kg / m³.
2. Water absorption of thermal insulation should not exceed 1%. We turn to the tables with technical characteristics and see that only polystyrene foam boards made by extrusion are suitable for this requirement.

There are no other options, so Penoplex is used in this technology.

Rules for calculating insulation for house walls

We turn to a very important question, how to calculate the thickness of the insulation. To make it clear, we will consider it using the example of insulating a wall erected from a foam block with a thickness of 30 cm or 0.3 m. Basalt wool insulation, which from the outside will be covered with facing bricks 12 cm (0.12 m) thick.

Input data:

1. The thermal conductivity of the foam block is 0.26 W / (m × K).
2. The thermal conductivity of mineral wool is 0.045.
3. The thermal conductivity of a brick is 0.52.
4. The heat resistance of the region where the house is being built is 3.45 m² × ° C / W. This corresponds to an indoor temperature of +22°C.

R = H / λ , Where

H is the thickness of the material,

λ is its thermal conductivity.

• Rс = 0.3 × 0.26 = 0.078 is the thermal resistance of the wall.
• Rc = 0.12 × 0.52 = 0.062 - This is an indicator for a brick.

The resistance of a region is the sum of the resistances of all the materials used in the construction of the house wall. That is:

R \u003d Rc + Rk + Ru , Where

Ru - this is the heat resistance of the insulation, and it must be found.

It turns out:

Ru \u003d R - Rc - Rk \u003d 3.45 - 0.078 - 0.062 \u003d 3.31.

From the formula: R=H/λ you can display the thickness of the insulation layer: H = R × λ = 3.31 × 0.045 = 0.15 m , or 15 cm, or 150 mm.

Thickness of thermal insulation materials in comparison