The roof of the bath from the blocks. Bath from gas blocks: construction technology and work procedure. The erection of the walls of the bath from block concrete

The default bath should be warm, comfortable and safe. And if earlier a wooden frame was used for the construction of traditional Russian steam rooms, and more recently they have been actively used frame technologies Today, due to the rapid increase in prices for building materials, not every person can afford a steam room made of wood.

However, there is always an alternative! You can build a bath yourself from inexpensive, lightweight and easy-to-lay blocks. The material does not contain harmful substances and in terms of performance is practically in no way inferior to more expensive and capital analogues, and in some moments even significantly surpasses them.

Features of block construction

To build any buildings from blocks, you do not need to have any special skills. But familiarize yourself with the key features this material is a must.

Block Features

The main feature of building blocks is the porous structure. In this case, the size, shape, and volume of pores randomly change throughout the block. In view of this, the mechanical and thermal properties of the blocks are also heterogeneous throughout the entire volume of the building product, so the thermal insulation of the steam room must be of especially high quality. At the same time, the bath must be insulated both outside and inside.

Blocks absorb moisture like a sponge. And if in summer there is nothing particularly terrible in this, then in winter the absorbed moisture will freeze and increase in volume, which can lead to the destruction of the blocks. This problem can be solved by high-quality external and internal waterproofing.

Benefits of Blocks

Block building materials have many advantages, namely:

Block Disadvantages

Like any other building material, blocks have certain disadvantages, among which the following points deserve special attention:

• blocks absorb moisture, which imposes additional requirements for waterproofing;
• inside the walls of the blocks, condensate forms and accumulates. To solve this problem, you need to use high-quality vapor barrier materials.

Among the relative disadvantages can be attributed fragility - when compared with brick and full-bodied concrete blocks- and less environmentally friendly (compared to natural wood).

However, blocks can be forgiven for all their shortcomings, especially when there are not a lot of funds for the construction of a bathhouse, deadlines are running out, and there is no way to turn to professional builders.

Foundation construction

When performing almost any construction work, the most important and crucial stage is the arrangement of a high-quality and reliable foundation. The block bath is no exception. Prepare right away necessary fixtures, which include:

• furnace hammer;
• plumb;
• building level;
• rule;
• rubber mallet;
• bast brush;
• sieve;
• trowel;
• scaffold;
• square.

The best option for a base for a steam room of blocks is a strip foundation.

First step. Dig a pit about 60 cm deep. Determine the other dimensions of the pit in accordance with the dimensions of the future bath.

Second step. Set the pins at the corners of the pit, pull any rope between them and, guided by the stretched string, set the intermediate rods every 180-200 cm. This will make it easier for you to further check the evenness of the foundation.

Third step. Fill the bottom of the pit with a layer of sand and gravel. Tamp the backfill. For better tamping, you can pour water on the pillow.

Fourth step. Lay the reinforcing cage on the compacted backfill. Traditionally, the frame is assembled from bars with a diameter of 12-14 mm. The mesh size of the reinforcing mesh is 10-15 cm.

Fifth step. Assemble and lay out the formwork from the boards.

Sixth step. Pour concrete mortar, best option- concrete grade M200. It is most convenient to use a ready-made solution.

At the stage of arranging the foundation, consider the issues of water supply for the bath and sewerage.

Leave the poured foundation for 3-5 weeks for complete solidification. Lay waterproofing on the frozen foundation (roofing material is usually used) and proceed with the construction of walls.

There is nothing difficult in building walls from blocks. This is a simple procedure that takes several steps and requires only strict adherence to the manual and basic recommendations.

First step. Using the building level, determine the highest corner of the foundation. It is from him that you will start laying out blocks.

Second step. Start laying blocks. The first row of block masonry is the most responsible. To fasten blocks, use a simple cement-sand composition. Be sure to check the evenness of the stacking of blocks at each stage. Put the blocks on edge. Interblock seams should be minimal.

Lay out the first row of building blocks with the highest density.

Lay out the entire first row.

Third step. Keep placing blocks. Lay the second and subsequent rows of blocks using an adhesive designed for such work. The composition is sold in a dry mix format and is prepared directly at the construction site. Just mix it with water. Prepare the mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions. A drill with a special nozzle will help you with this, or, even better, construction mixer.

Glue is preferable to conventional cement mortar for the reason that if a special composition is used, the finished walls will have practically no “cold bridges”. This will have a very good effect on the performance of the finished bath.

Spread the adhesive evenly around the perimeter of the block. Use a rubber mallet to level and compact the blocks.

Stack blocks in 3 rows. Between the rows, place a fine-mesh reinforcing mesh. Do not forget to leave room for doors and windows in accordance with the design of your bath.

Lay out all the rows of the building in accordance with the selected project and proceed to the arrangement of the roof structure.

Roof installation

Pay due attention to the construction of the roof structure, because the reliability of the entire bath largely depends on it.

First step. Install the support beam and floor beams.

Second step. Assemble and install the rafters.

Third step. Nail the batten boards to the rafters.

Fourth step. WITH inside nail vapor barrier material to the rafters.

Fifth step. From the outside, lay insulation in the cells of the crate.

Sixth step. Cover the insulation with waterproofing material. Fasten the waterproofing to the crate with a stapler.

Seventh step. Nail the bars of the counter-lattice to the crate.

Eighth step. Install the selected roofing. The best option for price and quality is corrugated board.

The pediment must be sewn up with roofing material. Finish the attic room of the bath at your discretion.

Finishing block bath

Building blocks, no matter how high-quality they are, still remain vulnerable to moisture, so you cannot do without competent waterproofing. Moisture protection should be comprehensive. So, the blocks should be impregnated with special water-repellent compounds and additionally covered from the outside with special films (plain polyethylene is also suitable).

Finishing the bath provides for the mandatory arrangement of a vapor barrier layer. The vapor barrier is attached to internal surfaces baths. It is best to use high-quality membranes. They will provide the necessary level of air exchange and will not allow moisture to damage the material.

Wall insulation from the outside

For outer cladding it is best to use modern hinged ventilated panels. Good for siding. Any cladding must be fixed in such a way that it is at least 4-5 cm from the wall surface. An ordinary crate will allow you to fulfill this requirement.

For interior decoration lining is traditionally used. Floors are best covered with ceramic tiles.

Otherwise, be guided by your preferences. The main thing is that the materials you use normally endure exposure to high temperatures and excessive humidity, while remaining safe for bath visitors and not losing their original aesthetic qualities.

Thus, even without an impressive budget and without the skills of a builder, you can build a full-fledged, reliable, safe, comfortable and durable bath from blocks with your own hands. At the same time, the finished building will not be inferior to more expensive structures made of wood, brick and other popular materials. All that is required of you is desire, attentiveness and following the instructions received.

Successful work!

Read the article on our website - Maslov's bath with your own hands.

Video - Do-it-yourself bath from blocks

Building a bath from aerated concrete, expanded clay concrete, gas silicate or wood concrete blocks is cheaper and many times faster than making brick or log masonry. But, the first and main stage will be the development of the project, taking into account all the wishes of the owners and the possibilities of the material.

Expanded clay blocks are quite often used for the construction of baths. Cheap and durable material can withstand up to 50-75 freezing cycles, easy to install, as it is very light, does not require a major foundation. The whole box can be assembled with your own hands and without experience in construction work.

The downside is the straightforwardness of the design (it is impossible to create rooms with fanciful bends) and high hygroscopicity. But on the other hand, the low heat capacity retains heat for quite a long time, and the ecological composition of the material does not cause any harm to health when exposed to high temperatures.

Projects of baths from blocks with their own hands using expanded clay concrete in the photo below.

When erected, the structure will look like this.

In the completed version, depending on the type of external cladding, as follows.

Plan for the construction of a claydite-concrete box with an area of ​​​​5x5 m.

Aerated concrete bath project

Aerated concrete is cellular concrete with uniformly distributed spherical pores (1-3 mm). The material is sufficiently resistant to mechanical stress and temperature extremes, is not affected by microorganisms. Thanks to its low weight, it is easy to create necessary structures(4x4, 6x6 and beyond).

Bath project from aerated concrete blocks.

Such a bath will not be inferior in hardness to a brick structure or timber, but it will cost at least half the price. The gas block is natural material and when heated does not evaporate toxins. The box is not afraid of mold, putrefactive processes and the vital activity of rodents. All that is needed good waterproofing, since the material is very hygroscopic (quickly absorbs moisture and long time evaporates it).

The bath itself can be one- or two-story, since the density of aerated concrete (350-750 kg / m 3) allows it to withstand floors with a sufficient weight load. Thermal insulation of the roof in this case wins, the heat-saving functions of aerated concrete blocks are very high, but still the upper part of the box must be reinforced. Facade - to have a ventilated structure.

How can I build a 6x6 m bath from aerated concrete with a terrace, an example is below.

Construction plan for a gas silicate bath

Aerated silicate is cellular concrete cured in an autoclave. Each block consists of aluminum powder, water, cement, gypsum, lime, in some cases additives, at the discretion of the manufacturer.

The material is refractory, frost-resistant, not afraid of mechanical damage, putrefactive processes, quickly and easily mounted, as it has a low weight. Has good sound insulation.

A gas silicate bath can be built quite quickly and efficiently with your own hands and without specific skills. The project scheme, as given below, can be considered universal. Additions, at the discretion of the owners.

The appearance of a bath of gas silicate blocks will be as follows, the photo below.

But, of course, there is also wood concrete - a fairly inexpensive and practical material. Projects for such structures are not much different from those listed above, but the cheapness and strength of the blocks make it indispensable in the budget buildings of baths.

If you make an effort and create the project correctly, everything looks just perfect.

Arbolite blocks retain heat well, warm up quickly, and are not subject to rotting. Durable and safe for human health. Their degree of fragility is much lower than that of expanded clay concrete, and the sound insulation is many times higher.

In the decoration of walls both from the inside and outside, more attention should be paid to waterproofing.

In general, it is much more profitable to build a bath from blocks of any consistency in material terms: the details of the box themselves will not cost so much, you can develop the project yourself, you do not need to involve a specialized team of workers and special equipment, and it will take much less time to build the building.

Today, most often for the construction of private baths, block building materials are used, which have a number of advantages over more expensive lumber or bricks. The article will discuss how to build a bath from blocks with your own hands, so that in the end you get a comfortable, reliable and safe structure.

Selection of building materials

Naturally, the primary task for the owner of the future bath is the choice of block material. There is no need to talk about the obviousness of this choice, since there are certainly enough varieties of goods in this category on the construction market.

1. aerated concrete. The main components in the production of these blocks are cement and quartz sand with the addition of a special foaming composition. By combining these components in a mold, a material with a structure of small cells is obtained, and then its strength is increased by steaming in a special high-temperature box (autoclave). The optimal brand for this material is D500, but its cost is higher (more: "How to build a bath of aerated concrete with your own hands - step-by-step instruction"). There are unautoclaved blocks that can only be used as outer cladding for warming the bath. It is strictly forbidden to make load-bearing walls and partitions from such material (read: "How to make partitions in a bath with your own hands - installation options"). A separate variety are gas silicate blocks in which lime is used instead of cement. However, such material absorbs moisture very strongly, therefore it is not recommended to use it for the construction of baths and saunas.
2. foam concrete. The same cellular building material as aerated concrete, but a significant difference can be traced in its small mass and increased thermal insulation characteristics. The material is also produced from sand and cement, but the binder is initially supplied in the form of foam through a special foam generator. The material has a number positive qualities, the main of which, perhaps, is the optimal value of the moisture absorption parameter. The cost of the material is an order of magnitude lower than aerated concrete grade D500. A separate variety are cinder blocks, which are made with the addition of porous slags to the composition. This type has a minimum cost, but heat loss during its use is much higher.
3. Expanded clay concrete. A unique construction made of expanded clay, poured with cement mortar. A distinctive feature of this type of blocks is their low thermal conductivity, which allows them to be used as building material for external walls without any insulation.

The types of block materials do not end there, but it is best to choose one of the above options for the construction of a bath and sauna. Next, we will consider in more detail the stages of the algorithm, according to which you can build a bath from blocks with your own hands in compliance with the standards and various nuances. See also: "Which bath blocks are best used in construction - an overview of materials."

Building a quality foundation

Immediately after choosing the main building material (blocks), you need to start creating a quality foundation. Considering that the blocks used in construction have a small mass, it is possible to make a foundation of medium power, since there will be no excessive loads on it.

If the dimensions of the bath do not exceed 7 meters (on the long side), then a columnar or strip foundation is created. Columnar involves the installation of concrete supports at the corners of the building and at the joints bearing walls with partitions. Particularly long sections of the wall can be supported with additional pillars. The strength of this design is increased by connecting the pillars to each other by means of a reinforced grillage.

The strip foundation is poured into a trench about 0.5 meters deep and 30-40 centimeters wide. A concrete solution is poured into the trench with a reinforcement mesh laid in its structure. Such trenches are dug under all load-bearing walls and partitions, which allows you to evenly distribute the weight of the building on the base (soil). Additionally, pile supports can be used if the soil has an unstable structure and can cause the building to become unstable.

Regardless of what type of foundation was chosen, it is necessary to raise it above the ground level by 0.4-0.5 meters. This is necessary so that water from the ground has a minimal impact on the lower blocks.

Also, when it comes to how to build a bath from blocks correctly, we must not forget about the waterproofing of the lower level of the walls. To do this, a rolled roofing material is laid on the base in two layers. We must not forget that holes must be made in the foundation for the installation of sewer pipes.

Wall construction and roof installation

On the finished basis, it is necessary to build a bath, taking into account the following rules:

• Rows of blocks should be laid in perfect horizontal lines, which is only feasible with the constant use of the building level, and the wall itself should be located at right angles to the base, which should be checked with a plumb line.
• After 3-4 rows of blocks, it is necessary to reinforce by laying welded reinforcing mesh or rod inserts.
• Window openings can be wooden facades, or special long panels.
• Special studs made of durable metal are mounted in the upper row of blocks, on which Mauerlat wooden beams will be fixed, which are necessary to create support for the future roof.
• Then a frame of rafters is mounted, which are bars and boards with a thickness of 2 centimeters or more. The roof in the bath can be gable (more expensive, but more convenient to use) or single-pitched (cheaper, but it will periodically have to be cleaned from snow and laying waterproofing materials). Used to create a roof metal tile, euroslate or any other roofing material.

During the implementation of the steps listed above, it is necessary to take care of the summing up of the main communications: electricity, water supply, sewerage, etc. To do this, openings and channels of appropriate sizes must be made in the wall ceilings.

Interior decoration of the baths

After you make a bath with your own hands from the blocks, you need to proceed to the interior decoration. Most often, the interior decoration of the bath is done in such a way that thermal insulation characteristics overlaps have increased (in more detail: "How to make the interior decoration of the bath - step by step instructions").

At this stage, there are also a number of rules:

• Ceilings are insulated on both sides, both in the attic (under the roof) and in the room. This is the primary measure for warming the room, since convection causes a constant rise warm air to the ceiling. Roof slopes can also be insulated by installing mineral wool panels and covering them with a membrane to protect them from the wind.
• In the case of floors, it is best to fill concrete screed followed by its insulation with expanded clay, foam glass or polystyrene slabs. Boards are laid on top of the heat-insulating material, but always in such a way that the liquid is drained.
• A crate of wooden beams is mounted on the walls with a laying of heat-insulating materials between them: basalt wool or any other thermally stable insulation.
• On top of the thermal insulation, it is imperative to fix the foil or initially use thermal insulation material with a foil layer. Only on the foil can you mount a counter-lattice of thinner rails and fix the lining on it.

The decoration of the premises is carried out in such a way that the scheme of installation of materials is the same, but the thickness of the heat-insulating layer may vary. The thickest section should be in the steam room, where the temperature will reach extreme values.

Outside, it is necessary to insulate the bath only if the thickness of the walls is formed by one block. In this case, it is necessary to perform additional lining with gas or foam concrete blocks.

Outcome

The article describes in detail the process of building a bath from block building materials with a description of the positive qualities of varieties of these same materials. If all work is carried out in compliance with the recommendations from this article, then the building will turn out to be of high quality, reliable and safe for visitors.

Also, the work can be entrusted to specialists who will take responsibility for all stages - from the purchase of blocks and other materials to the construction work and putting the bath into operation.

Expanded clay blocks are rapidly gaining popularity among private developers. The material is excellent for use in the self-construction of residential and outbuildings, including baths of various sizes and configurations.

Briefly about expanded clay concrete blocks

Among the key advantages of expanded clay concrete, first of all, it should be noted excellent thermal insulation characteristics. For comparison: for blocks, this parameter is on average 200-300% higher than the similar property of a brick. At the same time, laying blocks is no more difficult than a brick taken for comparison: due to their low weight, they can be lifted, carried and laid alone without significant effort, which eliminates the need for the mandatory involvement of additional labor and special equipment. There are no complex masonry features either: anyone who has had to “communicate” with bricks can build a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks - the key principles are the same.

Comparison of building materials Characteristics of expanded clay concrete blocks

No less important indicator for the conditions of residential construction is the absolute environmental Safety expanded clay concrete - there are no harmful chemical impurities in the composition of the blocks. In the process of heating, this material, unlike many "brothers", also does not emit anything toxic. Therefore, the blocks are great for building a bath.

But not everything is so clear. Expanded clay concrete blocks, like every building material, have their own weaknesses. The leader of the anti-rating is pronounced hygroscopicity. At this point, it would be possible to close your eyes, but not in the conditions of a bath with its high humidity. Yes, the saturation of the walls with water under normal conditions is not so scary, however, at the first frost, the accumulated moisture will freeze and expand, which after some time will inevitably lead to the destruction of the building material.

In terms of frost resistance, expanded clay concrete blocks also lose to many available options. According to GOST, the average number of freeze-thaw cycles of blocks is kept at 25-50. For residential construction in normal conditions - not the worst indicator. But in a bathhouse, which, for example, is melted 1-2 times a week during the cold season, and then left to cool by the owner, the mentioned number of cycles will be exhausted within a maximum of a couple of years.

To eliminate the above-mentioned risks, walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks are necessarily insulated and provided with moisture vapor barrier. A competent device for such protection will eliminate the risk of wetting and subsequent destruction of materials.

This concludes a brief excursion into the theoretical part. The following is a detailed step-by-step guide to self-construction baths from expanded clay concrete blocks: from the device supporting structure before the installation of the roof and recommendations for the interior design of the premises.

The basis of the basics: we make the foundation for a block bath

The number of types of supporting structures is impressive: columnar and tape, monolithic and prefabricated, concrete and brick, etc. The choice of suitable foundation characteristics is of paramount importance, because without a reliable foundation, one cannot count on the normal service of the building.

A bath of expanded clay concrete blocks is best erected on a tape or slab concrete base. When choosing a specific option, we focus primarily on the type of soil on the site. Recommendations are reflected in the following illustration.

Features of the choice of other key characteristics of the foundation for a block bath are also determined mainly by the properties of the soil on the site.

Firstly, it is necessary to take into account the depth of soil freezing (usually they try to lay foundations at least 20-30 cm below this indicator).

RegionsSoil freezing depth, cm

Vorkuta, Surgut, Nizhnevartovsk, Salekhard	240
Omsk, Novosibirsk	220
Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Kurgan, Kustanay	200
Yekaterinburg, Chelyabinsk, Perm	190
Syktyvkar, Ufa, Aktyubinsk, Orenburg	180
Kirov, Izhevsk, Kazan, Ulyanovsk	170
Samara, Uralsk	160
Vologda, Kostroma, Penza, Saratov	150
Voronezh, Perm, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Novgorod, Ryazan, Tambov, Tula, Yaroslavl	140
Volgograd, Kursk, Smolensk	120
Pskov, Astrakhan	110
Belgorod, Kursk, Kaliningrad	100
Rostov	90
Krasnodar	80
Nalchik, Stavropol	60

Secondly, it is necessary to correctly identify the type of soil at the construction site.

Thirdly, it is necessary to take into account the relationship between the level of groundwater passage and the depth of soil freezing.

Tape support structure can be used in combination with most existing varieties soils, which is why it is the most common.

Slab structures are not so versatile. They can only be used in combination with not particularly mobile soils.

Video - Strip foundation

Having chosen the best option for the supporting structure, it remains only to calculate it, after which it will be possible to proceed directly to the construction of the foundation. Detailed recommendations regarding each of the mentioned stages were given earlier in the relevant publications of our website.

Helpful advice! Decide in advance on optimal dimensions and features of the internal layout of the bath. You can develop the project yourself, entrust it to a third-party specialist, or use one of the ready-made solutions. The article discusses the projects of baths from a bar - this is unprincipled, the main thing is to choose a suitable internal configuration.

Preparation

Let's start by preparing the required fixtures. For greater convenience of perception, the information is presented in the form of a table.

Table. Work set

PositionPurpose

	Will be used to seat blocks. It is recommended to take a tool weighing about 1 kg. A metal hammer will not work - contact with it can lead to the destruction of blocks.
	It doesn't need any additional introduction.
	Allows you to control the correctness (evenness) of laying blocks.
	It is used for applying masonry mortar. It is most convenient to use a tool with a rectangular platform.
	Use a thin, but as strong as possible cord-mooring.
	It will allow you to correctly mark the building elements before sawing into pieces.
	The tool allows you to control the evenness of the masonry vertically.
	It is used for cutting expanded clay concrete blocks. Also, this tool allows you to create strobes for placing reinforcement. Complete with a grinder, use cutting wheel diameter from 22 cm.
	With this simple tool, you will load the concrete mixer with the original masonry mix components and transport the finished mortar to the job site.
	Designed for mixing the initial components of mortars. You can do without this device by preparing the mixture manually, but this will lead to an unreasonable increase in time and labor costs.
	Suitable for work at height. The best option is to rent a structure from the nearest construction company.

In addition to the above, buy the following:

• blocks directly;
• cement, sand and water or ready-made glue for laying blocks;
• heat and hydro vapor barrier materials;
• reinforcement (8-10 mm bars are suitable) or reinforcing mesh.

The list can be supplemented with various small things - at this moment you will orient yourself in the course of the work.

What to put blocks on?

Blocks can be placed on a cement-sand mixture or ready-made glue. Information about available options shown in the table.

Table. Binder mixtures for laying expanded clay concrete blocks

MaterialDescription

	Sold as a dry mix. Preparation is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and comes down to mixing with the specified amount of water (sometimes additional substances are added to the mixture, it is specified separately in the instructions). To prepare the mixture, it is convenient to use a construction mixer or an electric drill with an appropriate nozzle. The block adhesive is characterized by high plasticity and excellent bonding characteristics. The use of the composition makes it possible to obtain joints with a thickness of about 0.5 cm, which provides higher thermal insulation properties of the structure, but increases the cost of its construction. The average consumption of glue for laying a cubic meter of blocks is from 40-50 kg and varies depending on the thickness of the joints. Several types of glue for expanded clay concrete blocks are available for sale: - standard - suitable for working with expanded clay concrete, gas silicate and other blocks. In addition to the main function, it can be used to eliminate minor block defects in the form of minor chips, cracks, etc.; - winter. Designed for laying in cold weather; - heat-saving. Allows you to build structures without "cold bridges", due to which the indicators of temperature losses are significantly reduced. Well suited for the construction of walls and partitions of the bath. Among the manufacturers that have proven themselves in the market of binder mixtures and binder components, one can note the brands SARMAT, Ilmax, LISMIX. Helpful advice! Many manufacturers of expanded clay concrete blocks offer an adhesive designed specifically for laying materials from their production. Whenever possible, these compounds should be used.
	In this case, the following materials are taken in the indicated quantities: - cement from M400 - one share; - sand - three shares; - water - 0.7 shares. The components are thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous composition is obtained. Attention! The indicated amount of water is an average and may vary depending on the moisture level of the sand used. As a result, you should get a plastic composition that allows you to extra effort seat blocks. Along with this, the mixture should not spread. Helpful advice! To increase the elasticity of the mixture, instead of a certain proportion of quarry sand, river material can be taken. Prepare the solution in small portions, for about 1-2 hours of masonry work. It is better that the composition is constantly mixed in a concrete mixer - so its plasticity will be maintained at a sufficient level.

Choosing a method of laying walls

There are several methods for laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks. Suitable option is selected taking into account the design features, wall thickness, thermal insulation characteristics and finishing facing. Information about the main methods of masonry is given in the table.

Table. Ways of laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks

Methods Descriptions and Explanations

Half a block	It is used when laying walls with a thickness equal to the width of the expanded clay concrete block (most often - 19 cm). When building a bath, this method can only be used if the building is very rarely used for its intended purpose. The block is placed with the long side along the partition line. Row is one. Every 3-4 rows, the masonry is reinforced with reinforcement. A reinforcing belt up to 200 mm high is erected at the top. For insulation, it is advisable to use expanded polystyrene or mineral wool materials. The optimal thickness of the heat-insulating layer is from 50-100 mm.
Full block wide	In this case, the walls are ligated, and the bond and spoon rows alternate. The width of such a wall is 39 cm, i.e. by lenght building block. Reinforcement recommendations are the same. Masonry is optimally suited for the construction of residential buildings and private baths. Recommendations for heaters and their thickness are similar.
Width 600 mm	This method has much in common with well brickwork. The blocks are tied up, there are voids between them. Thermal insulation material is used to fill free gaps.
two walls	2 parallel walls are laid out in half of the block. Metal rods are used for binding. A 5-10 cm heat-insulating layer is placed between the walls. The method guarantees high thermal insulation performance, and therefore is quite well suited for the construction of a bath.
with cladding	The walls are laid out in half a block or in a whole block. The method differs from the previous one only in that here, instead of the second parallel wall, a facing brick is used.

The choice of the appropriate method remains with the owner - the main points and the sequence of actions are preserved, so there will be no problems in the process of doing the work.

Important notes about seams

The optimal thickness of the seams is 0.6-0.8 cm (up to 1 cm if necessary). In the case of using ready-made mixtures, the thickness of the joints is often reduced (information on this subject is specified in the manufacturer's instructions).

Important! The thinner the seams between the blocks are made, the more plastic the solution must be used. Modern plastic mixtures allow to reduce the thickness of the seams to 3-4 mm.

The seams are filled completely according to the "undercut" method, a trowel is used to remove excess mortar. It is also possible to fill the interblock seams with a “waste” - in this case, the seam is left free by about half a centimeter. The use of the second method is usually resorted to if the wall is planned to be finished with plaster. Actually, where they will plaster, and leave space free from mortar.

Important! Before starting construction, you need to determine the optimal wall thickness. To save you from lengthy calculations, we immediately give appropriate value: 400-500 mm for central regions. Residents of other climatic zones the recommended indicators should be proportionally reduced or increased in accordance with the weather conditions on the ground.

Nuances of reinforcement

As noted, walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks, as well as structures made of most other block building elements, are reinforced every 3-4 rows. In this section, you are invited to familiarize yourself with the order of this event so as not to return to it in the future.

In order for the finished structure to be as stable and reliable as possible, other elements of the building are also subjected to additional hardening, namely:

• first row (not always, but very desirable);
• bottom seams window openings. Relevant for cases where the dimensions of the opening are more than 180 cm. In this case, the space is reinforced for a length of at least 0.5 m on each side of the opening;
• supporting surfaces of door and window lintels - also 50 cm or more in each direction from the opening.

Depending on the specifics of a particular project, other elements of the structure can be reinforced - it is determined on an individual basis.

Important note! Reinforcement and masonry technologies for most building blocks remain similar. Do not be afraid if the products presented in the following illustrations look different from the expanded clay concrete blocks you bought. The provisions of the technological processes relevant.

Reinforcement is carried out using rods with a diameter of 8 mm or more (in this case, 2 longitudinal grooves measuring 4x4 cm along the length of the reinforcement are cut in the center of the blocks, the remaining space will be filled with mortar), or a mesh (made from wire with a diameter of 3-5 mm, mesh sizes - 5x5 cm (when arranging openings - 7x7 cm), from below and from above it is protected from corrosion with a 2-cm layer of masonry mortar), or reinforcing cages (paired steel strips connected by wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, are laid on a layer of glue, recessed into it and from above are covered with a second layer of glue / solution).

In the second and third cases, there are no particular difficulties - the technology is clear from the notes in brackets. Reinforcement with steel bars deserves separate consideration.

Table. Block masonry reinforcement

Stage of workDescription

	As noted, strobes in the amount of two pieces are cut in the center, i.e. at equal distances from the edges of the block and its middle. The recommended sizes of strobes were indicated earlier. An excellent assistant in this matter will be a manual or electric wall chaser, depending on the availability of electricity on the site. To do the job as efficiently as possible, you can pre-markup using suitable tools at hand, for example, a long straight rail and a marker. Also, the rail can be laid in the center of the block and simply make cuts along its side edges.
	Dust the interior of the strobe with a sweeping brush or building hair dryer.
	Insert the rods into the prepared strobes and cut to length. The Bulgarian will help you with this. In the absence of such, you can use a hand tool (hacksaw) or other suitable device.
	Having finished with fitting and cutting, remove the reinforcement from the strobe and do the following: - fill the recesses with mortar or block adhesive. Use the same binder as for construction; - press the reinforcing bars into the solution; - Get rid of excess mixture. Thanks to the solution, the metal will be protected from corrosion.

To arrange thin seams between blocks, the previously mentioned reinforcing frames can be used. It looks like this.

The diagram of the correct reinforcement of block walls is shown in the image.

Video - Reinforcement of walls from blocks

Wall masonry

So, the foundation is ready and covered with a layer of moisture-proof material in the form of a bunch of bitumen + roofing material, special waterproofing cardboard or another suitable material. You can start building walls. The sequence is described in the table.

Table. Wall masonry made of expanded clay concrete blocks

Stage of workDescription

	On top of the waterproofing of the foundation, a solution is laid, chosen for fastening expanded clay concrete blocks. Recommended layer thicknesses according to the parameters of the mixture used were given earlier. At this stage, a trowel will help you. Also, to apply the mixture, you can use a scoop or a ladle of a plasterer, followed by leveling with a trowel - as you prefer. With the help of this layer deviations from the level will be leveled. If the surface of your foundation is flat, or you did the alignment before that, skip the step.
	The applied leveling layer of the solution requires additional processing, which boils down to pouring cement dust over it - this will lead to an increase in the bearing capacity of the binder components. In addition, such processing will eliminate the possibility of immersing the building block in a relatively soft solution - otherwise the block would have sagged and there would be no point in applying a leveling layer. Pour a little (literally 1-3 mm) of clean cement over the mortar / glue layer. Soon a carrier film forms on the surface.
	One of the most responsible and milestones work. Helpful advice! Before laying, let the blocks soak for a minute in cold water. The material will be saturated with moisture and will not take it from the solution / glue, thereby deteriorating the quality of adhesion. Install the first block of expanded clay concrete strictly in the corner of the intersection of the future outer walls. Level the product with a level and light taps with a rubber mallet. In a similar way, install the blocks in the remaining corners of the future bath. After that, make sure that the lengths of the diagonals are the same, just like you did in the foundation stage. Stretch guide cords between the corner blocks to mark the future walls of the bath - this will allow you to lay the blocks strictly on the same level. Ignoring this recommendation and trying to build "by eye" will soon result in swelling, deformation and destruction of structures.
	Continue laying out the corner in accordance with the considered technology. On side walls the solution is usually not applied. The exceptions are: - a block that joins with the frontal surface of perpendicularly installed building elements; - cut products. Having laid out the corner to approximately the same size as in the photo, check the quality of the work performed using the building level. Get rid of the detected deviations using a rubber mallet.
	Before proceeding with the construction of walls, it is better to lay out each corner for at least 3 rows. Control the evenness of laying each row of blocks. The building level will help you with this.
	Check the verticality of the masonry after arranging each row. At this stage, a tool called a plumb line will help you. Horizontalness is controlled by the mason's cord (mooring) and the level. This point will be covered further.
	Start building the wall after laying several corner rows. To control the verticality of the masonry, use the order. The tool is shown in the photo and is represented by a simple straight rail with marks for the height of the blocks. Important note! Rows of the wall are laid out from the corner elements. Having reached the bottom of the opening under the window, the masonry is carried out from the corner in the direction of the nearest wall.
	Do not forget to stretch the mooring cord between the corner blocks when laying out each row. With this simple device, it will be easier for you to control the evenness of laying building elements in a horizontal plane. The principle is simple: - pulled the cord; - laid the block; - aligned the building element with respect to the rope and other blocks using rubber mallet.

Video - Laying a corner from blocks

Video - Laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks

You got acquainted with the technology of laying walls from block building elements. Do not forget to perform reinforcement in accordance with the recommendations received earlier.

Important technological aspects of laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks

To successfully complete the work, you need to understand a number of technological nuances. These points will be covered next.

What should be the dressing of expanded clay concrete blocks?

As noted, construction is carried out according to the principle of brickwork: vertical joints between expanded clay concrete blocks V different rows moved half a block.

The minimum shift in the walls, laid out from full-sized expanded clay blocks - 100 mm. A diagram of the correct ligation of full-sized blocks is shown in the image.

For cases when the wall is laid out with the use of cut (not full-sized) elements, the following dressing scheme is relevant.

How to connect the internal and external load-bearing walls?

If possible, build an external load-bearing wall along with an internal one. Make the connection like this:

• lay the first row of the internal load-bearing wall right next to the external one. Use SOLUTION;
• when laying the next row, start the block inner wall to the outer one by about 100-150 mm. To do this, cut the expanded clay block outer wall to the specified value;
• insulate the connection with 50 mm layers of foam or mineral wool. Due to this, the lower indicator of thermal insulation properties of the expanded clay concrete block of the inner bath wall will be compensated.

The laying of partitions is carried out after the completion of the construction of the bearing bath walls. Anchors are pre-installed in them to ensure the subsequent pairing of internal partitions and finished load-bearing walls. The ends of the anchors are placed in the horizontal seams of the outer wall and the seams of the partition. The necessary holes can be made with a drill.

In most situations, the construction of walls and partitions from full-sized blocks alone is not possible. Cutting of building elements is carried out in place, i.e. in accordance with the dimensions of the empty gap left after laying full-sized expanded clay concrete blocks. For cutting, a circular saw or an electromechanical saw is suitable.

Many craftsmen adapt a jigsaw for this. It is better to refrain from using a grinder: an excessive amount of heat generated can lead to the destruction of a building element. The cutting technology itself consists of 2 stages: mark the block and get rid of the excess.

Helpful advice! For arranging openings, try, if possible, to use not cuttings of building elements, but special additional blocks - reduce the number of cuts and ensure a higher quality of work.

Video - Cutting blocks

Not full-sized building elements must be embedded in the masonry. It is better to do this at the maximum distance from the slopes of the openings to be equipped and the corners of the building being erected. The offset of vertical joints when laying non-full-sized blocks is at least 40 mm.

Important! Vertical seams between solid and cut blocks must be filled with mortar.

How to equip vertical seams?

In most areas, vertical joints are not filled with mortar. The following places are an exception:

• connections of solid and cut blocks;
• connection of external walls with internal partitions- highly desirable
• corner block connections.

How to drill holes in block walls?

Holes for water pipes, sockets and other similar things are prepared with a drill with a simple or coronary drill.

Important note! When drilling with a drill, switch it to work in non-impact mode.

How to make furrows in the walls of the blocks?

Furrows for electrical wires are made as follows:

• 2 parallel cuts are prepared in the wall. For this, a circular saw is used;
• expanded clay between the prepared cuts is removed with a chisel and a metal hammer;
• the furrow is cleaned of dust and used for its intended purpose.

If desired, you can purchase or rent a tool specially designed for such work - a furrower.

Important! According to the technology, before the arrangement of furrows, it is necessary to perform appropriate calculations for strength indicators. Without such, it is only allowed to make recesses, the dimensions of which do not exceed the parameters indicated in the following table.

There are a number of significant notes regarding the above information.

First, the parameter of the maximum canal depth should be considered as relevant for any hole made in the niche/canal preparation process.

Secondly, if the vertical channel rises more than a third of the room in relation to the ceiling, it can be made 8 cm deep and 12 cm wide, provided that the wall thickness is at least 22.5 cm.

Thirdly, the distance between the furrows and recesses should be from 22.5 cm.

Fourthly, if the niches are located on the same wall, a gap must be maintained between them that is at least 2 times the width of the larger niche.

Fifth, to determine the maximum allowable total width of furrows and recesses, you need to multiply the length of the wall by a factor of 0.13.

Helpful advice! It is not recommended to make oblique and horizontal channels. If they must be present, a distance equal to at least 1/8 of the height of the room must be maintained between them and the floor / ceiling. Without performing additional calculations, the channels can be made with a depth not exceeding the values ​​from the table.

How to make jumpers over openings?

There are quite a few ways to arrange jumpers over window / door openings, for example, they can be made from special-shaped blocks or ordinary bricks. We offer you the simplest, fastest and most convenient method to implement, which involves the use of ready-made ordinary jumpers. Suitable for use on both interior and exterior walls. The number of jumpers varies depending on the thickness of the wall and its functional purpose.

The depth of embedding the jumper into the wall is selected taking into account the width of the opening. The minimum allowable indicator is 125 mm. The principle is simple: the lintels are laid over the opening, a part of the material is cut out of the blocks according to the shape and size of the lintel, the laying of the walls continues to the required height.

With its smaller side, the jumper is installed on a 1.2-cm layer of cement mortar. In case of use similar products temporary mounting supports are generally not used.

The jumper laying technology is shown in the photo.

In the same photo, a heat-insulating liner is visible. It can be made from mineral wool. The recommended layer thickness is 80-120 mm. Having mounted a set of jumper beams, firmly tie them with a knitting wire. She will provide correct position structural elements until the arrangement of the upper row.

Mounted jumpers immediately begin to perform a carrier function. Products are available for sale, the height of which corresponds to the height of the blocks, which minimizes the number of undercuts. At the same time, the surface of the wall will form a single, even base with the lintel, which will allow the subsequent finishing to be carried out with the highest quality, for example, using plaster.

If you cannot find suitable jumpers on sale, you can make them yourself, for example, based on the corners, following the recommendations from the following video.

Video - Do-it-yourself jumper installation over openings

You have familiarized yourself with all the technological aspects of laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks. If you wish, you can use the same guide when working with blocks from other materials - construction is carried out according to the same principles.

Instructions for arranging floors

As a rule, in addition to the lower tier, the bath has at least an attic half-floor, as a maximum - 1 or more additional upper floors. To distinguish between tiers, floors are equipped. Both interfloor and attic floors can be done following the provisions of the same technology.

With instructions for self-assembly of this structural element, you are invited to read further.

One of the most popular options interfloor overlap – reinforced concrete slab. But we will refuse this option. Firstly, the financial, labor and time costs for its development will be unreasonably high. Secondly, you will have to perform a lot of calculations to determine the load created by the ceiling, and to understand whether the walls and foundation of the bath can withstand operation in such conditions.

In such conditions, it is much more expedient to resort to the use of a wooden interfloor ceiling. The design is relatively simple to arrange and is built in less time at relatively low financial costs (when compared with a reinforced concrete slab).

What is the cover made of?

For arranging the floor, it is best to use dry softwood designed specifically for use in such conditions (the material must comply with the standards of the construction industry - check with the seller for the availability of related documents confirming this fact).

Helpful advice! If you wish, you can spend additional funds and make overlaps with the minimum wage. Construction professionals often refer to such structures as "skeletons". Products are characterized by high strength and load-bearing capacity, provide effective fastening of parts of the structure and are available in lengths up to 12 m. lay the ends on the long sides of the building (so that it sags less), the specified length, since we are talking about a bath, in the vast majority of cases will be enough.

With characteristics different breeds wood you can see in the following table.

The interfloor overlap is at the same time the ceiling beams of the lower tier and the lags of the floor of the upper floor.

Before using the timber for its intended purpose, it must be impregnated with an antiseptic and flame retardant. These tools increase the resistance of the material to decay and fire. Sections of beams resting on walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks must be tarred and wrapped with roofing material to ensure effective protection from the harmful effects of moisture - without such processing, the wood will simply rot and the structure will last very little.

Fasten the roofing material with any in a suitable way. Fasten with a stapler or nails with a wide hat. Please note that two layers of roofing material are used for waterproofing, and the length of the insulation layer should be at least 25 cm, and the roofing material should protrude 3 cm beyond the inner wall boundary.

Thermal insulation of floors separating rooms with approximately the same temperature can be omitted. Part of the structure that separates, for example, a steam room and an upstairs room or a heated floor and an attic must be insulated.

Waterproofing of floors is carried out in areas that cover rooms with an increased level of humidity: washing room, steam room, etc. Recommendations regarding the arrangement of insulation, waterproofing and other protective layers were given earlier in the relevant material on our site. The instruction is devoted to the installation of the ceiling, but for wooden floors, the recommendations remain the same.

Important! When choosing a beam section for arranging a floor, first of all, consider the size of the span: the beam section must correspond to at least a sixteenth of the mentioned indicator. Additionally, you need to take into account the load. Recommendations regarding these nuances are given in the table.

Having decided on the optimal type of wood and the necessary operational and technical characteristics of the timber, proceed directly to the stage of arranging the floor.

We offer the simplest option for placing floor beams. Many experts recommend pre-cutting openings for timber in the blocks of the upper row of the wall, but this is long and laborious. Much easier to do as shown in the image below.

Here the beams are made of knocked down boards, but the meaning remains the same. Elementary technology:

• beams with preselected characteristics and pitch are laid on the top row of expanded clay concrete blocks. The minimum entry of the beam on the block is 50 mm. In practice, they usually adhere to an indicator of 100-150 mm. The previously mentioned waterproofing is visible in the photo;
• the space between the beams is filled with expanded clay concrete blocks, pre-sawn to the desired parameters. The height of full-sized blocks in most cases is 190 mm. If the timber will have smaller parameters, the problem will be solved by cutting off the excess part from the block. If the block is lower than the used beam (which is extremely rare), the disadvantage is leveled with the help of additional elements or a cut of the same expanded clay concrete block;
• further, the walls of the upper floor continue to be laid out in accordance with standard technology.

The image shows intermediate beams designed to strengthen the structure. Used when necessary. Conclusions about the appropriateness of their application are made at the stage of drawing up project documentation. The parameters of the beams, with the exception of the length, usually correspond to the characteristics of the main elements. Bonding is carried out in a suitable manner. In the presented example, these are metal corners and self-tapping screws.

You can get detailed information about the further arrangement of floors in the corresponding publication of our website. The information is focused on the ceiling, but its relevance in the case of wooden floors from the beam is preserved.

In a similar sequence, floors are made between other floors and the attic.

Video - Wooden floor

What to do next?

The "box out" is complete. What are the next steps?

1. First, you need to make a roof.
2. Secondly, it is necessary to complete the steps associated with the internal arrangement of the bath.

Video - Bath from expanded clay concrete blocks

How to assemble a bath of gas silicate blocks with your own hands

A bath of gas silicate blocks is assembled with your own hands quickly enough.

They are constantly trying to reduce the cost of building a bath, as they start it after the main one. Among the most inexpensive materials can be distinguished: aerated concrete and gas silicate blocks. If you recalculate the estimates, then the installation comes out almost cheaper than frame construction. And if you do all the work with your own hands, then the bath will generally cost from 5,000 rubles / m². We will tell our readers about how a bathhouse is built from gas silicate blocks with our own hands, step by step from the foundation to the roof.

Why is it profitable to build from gas silicate?

Gas silicate blocks have a porous texture.

Gas silicate blocks are produced from a mixture of materials: lime, gypsum, cement and aluminum powder. They are made under high pressure and hardened at temperatures up to 180°C.

Since gas particles remain in the material, it has high thermal insulation performance. It is often used not only as the main building material, but also as a heater. The density of various grades of gas silicate starts from 250 kg/m³. For a bath, take a dense brand D500 with a density of up to 500 kg / m³. Among the main advantages of the material for the bath are important:

1. High heat resistance.
2. Environmental friendliness.
3. It is not subject to rotting and infection by fungi.
4. Durable and easy to cut.
5. It is permissible to build a structure up to 3 floors.

1. Absorbs moisture and releases it for a long time.
2. Breaks from mechanical influences.
3. Durability not tested.

With the right approach, you can build a bath from gas silicate blocks with your own hands, especially since the material is light and you can cope with the work without additional help.

Bath installation steps

Building a bath from gas silicate blocks is easy to do with your own hands. Installation is carried out in several successive stages:

1. Planning and budgeting.
2. Foundation installation.
3. Wall laying.
4. Roof installation.
5. Finishing inside and facade.

Each of the stages should be analyzed in more detail.

Sauna planning

Plan of a bath from gas silicate blocks.

You need to plan a gas silicate bath in the same way as any other. We determine where it is better to place on the site, we select the project. You can take a typical one from the Internet, many construction sites have a calculator with which you can calculate the required amount of materials. For DIY construction, a small bath is chosen, of the correct shape, for example, 3x3 or 4x4 m. In this it is easy to place a steam room from 4 m², a rest room of 10-12 m², a dressing room and a shower room.

Even at the planning stage, the finishing of the bath is thought out, since it will have to be done from two sides, it will take a lot of money.

It is not worth making a thick layer of thermal insulation, since gas silicate blocks in one row keep the temperature of 3 rows of brick laying.

When the bath is planned, you can begin to purchase materials and install the foundation.

Foundation installation

The strip foundation is optimally suited for a bath of gas silicate blocks.

The foundation for a bath of blocks is suitable for tape or monolithic. Other types of material are not suitable, despite its low weight. Although the blocks are quite dense and strong, they do not withstand loads at the corners of the building. Therefore, baths from it are not built above a one-story or with an attic.

To install the strip foundation, it is necessary to make markings and dig a trench to a depth below the freezing of the soil. A sand cushion of 10-15 cm is poured at the bottom and rammed. Then they perform formwork from non- edged board and bars. The formwork should rise above the soil by at least 50 cm.

A reinforced bundle of reinforcement and knitting wire is laid in the structure. Everything is filled with concrete. To save money, concrete can be made by hand using a concrete mixer. To do this, you will need: cement, ASG or sand and gravel, water. You can mix everything manually, but it's more difficult. The foundation is poured in layers, but it is better to complete the work in one day. Next, the foundation is allowed to ripen. To do this, it is covered with cellophane and moistened once a day by slightly opening it. After 2 weeks, open completely and allow to dry.

The monolithic foundation is poured with a single reinforced structure. It will cost more, but even with strong heaving of the soil, the bath will stand securely. In addition, you do not have to mount a separate foundation for the stove, as in the first case.

In any case, the height above the ground should be at least 50-60 cm, since the gas silicate blocks absorb moisture and it is better to raise them as high as possible above the ground.

After the foundation hardens and stands, you can start laying the walls.

It is possible to assemble a box of large-sized gas silicate blocks in 1-2 weeks, even alone. The main thing is to observe some subtleties:

1. The bearing qualities of the blocks are good and according to the rules it is enough to lay a wall of 38 cm, but our climate dictates its own conditions. The bath should be warm, so the optimal wall thickness is at least 53.5 - 59 cm.
2. Since the blocks do not tolerate moisture well, the first 2-4 rows are recommended to be laid with red hardened bricks. It is more resistant to moisture and the bath will last longer.
3. Blocks are placed in a checkerboard pattern all the time checking the evenness of the masonry with a level. They are fastened together not with cement, but with a special adhesive composition. So the thermal insulation of the bath will be better. The thickness of the seam will be less. The adhesive composition is diluted according to the instructions on the bag for each manufacturer.
4. To increase the strength of the structure, a reinforced masonry mesh or steel bars with a cross section of at least 8 mm is laid every 2-3 rows. Also come in places of future door and window openings.
5. The upper rows are reinforced with a special reinforced screed made of anchors and wire. Anchors also need to be mounted in places where the Mauerlat will be attached. They will be linked. More details of the design can be seen in the photo.

Roof installation

The roof is made of the simplest design.

The design of the roof for a bath from blocks is chosen as a simple gable or single-pitched. Shed is supported on one side by a Mauerlat. The angle of inclination is made small, so the roof will be better protected from the winds. Roofing material is covered from above and the selected roof is laid: slate, ondulin, corrugated board. How to design a gable roof, you can read in one of the previous articles.

Since the material of the walls is afraid of moisture, it is necessary to waterproof the roof and insulate the ceilings. To do this, it is better to use a new membrane waterproofing agent, it will not allow water to penetrate inside and release steam, preventing condensation from forming.

Installation of exterior and interior finishes

Finishing the bath inside with linden clapboard will create a natural woody smell.

The bath box must be protected from the effects of steam and moisture, not only from the inside, but also from the outside. To do this, the first step is to lay steam and waterproofing inside and out. It is difficult to attach the material to the cellular structure, so a crate is necessary. It is attached to the walls with the help of special gas silicate dowels. For the steam room use foil, membrane. On top of the crate, a lining, linden or aspen, is mounted.

It is better to insulate the bath from the outside, with a ventilated facade design. The pie system is selected: on the crate or on the cross crate. The second one is more difficult, but there will be no cold bridges and the bathhouse will quickly heat up. From above, the structure is covered with siding or imitation timber.

Bath communications

Floors can be filled or wooden. In any case, it is necessary to lay them at an angle and organize a drain. Water should not drain under the foundation, as in winter it will fall on the blocks and, freezing, will destroy them. It is better to construct a separate septic tank from two wells.

The electrical system is carried out from the central one, observing all safety rules. Since the material absorbs water well and gives it away for a long time, all wires must be laid in a special corrugated tube. It will protect the owners from short circuits and fires. All switches and sockets are installed outside the steam room. The lamp in the steam room is closed with a special heat-resistant and hermetic cover.

Water is carried out from the central pipe, from a well or a well. On garden plots you can leave the bathhouse without water supply, before heating it, it is dragged in buckets, in the old fashioned way. For convenience, you can mount an outdoor shower by installing a dark iron barrel and leading the shower to the washing compartment.

Building a bath from gas silicate blocks with your own hands with finishing and insulation is not so cheap as it might seem at first glance. But following all the rules, it will serve no less than wood. And the speed of assembly and slight shrinkage will make it possible to start using the bath immediately after finishing. And the photo and video materials in this article will give a complete picture of the work, even for novice builders.

We build a bath with our own hands from foam blocks - the secrets of modern construction

As many already know, the fastest and most economical way to build a real Russian bath is to build it from foam blocks. This miracle material is made from environmentally friendly cellular concrete - a durable, refractory and lightweight building material.

It is made from ordinary quartz sand, with the addition of water, cement and special foam, which, when hardened, leaves small air cavities. So, building a bath with your own hands from a foam block is a fairly simple solution to your problems!

Bath construction

The only thing you need to take care of before starting construction is excellent vapor barrier and protection of bricks from water, because due to its porosity, foam concrete does not have the highest moisture resistance. But consider phased construction do-it-yourself baths from foam blocks in order.

Construction of a foundation for a foam block bath

As many have already understood from the foregoing, a solid and powerful foundation for this type of bath is not required - the material for building walls and partitions is too light. That is why you can easily limit yourself to a simple strip foundation for a bath with an ordinary sandy substrate.

Attention! You should not forget about the high-quality waterproofing of the foundation, which experts recommend doing with mastic or ordinary roofing material.

So, in order to properly fill the foundation, you will need to dig a pit in the form of a narrow closed (rectangular) tape around the entire perimeter future construction. The average depth is at least 60 cm, while a width of 30 cm will be enough.

The next step - with the help of a level, pins and a rope, we perform (and check) the markup. To do this, you will need to stick the pins in the corners and around the entire perimeter so that the average distance between them does not exceed two meters. Then, we stretch the rope between all the pins and check the evenness of the location of the pins in the corners.

Now we proceed to the armoframe, which should be knitted from reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm and the erection of formwork panels, which is recruited from plywood or boards. After successful installation and unfastening, the formwork is poured with concrete, and a receiver and a sewer should be laid in the center of the washing foundation.

Do not forget to lay a grid on top of the resulting structure and put a screed on top of it, about 4-5 cm thick. Now you just have to do waterproofing and the foundation is ready.

Building walls

As mentioned earlier, the construction of a do-it-yourself bath from a foam block is carried out in record time: according to experienced summer residents, this type of structure is quietly built in 2-3 weeks! And this is taking into account the fact that only one person will work. As for the brigade, the construction will go much faster.

According to experts, foam blocks for building walls should be purchased with a density of D700 and M25.

Attention! Pay special attention to the fact that the foam blocks should not be placed flat, but on the edge. Each stacked layer is necessarily checked by a level, both vertically and horizontally.

Let's start with the fact that the first row of blocks should be laid on a regular sand-cement mortar. Whatever the first row turns out to be, the rest of the masonry will turn out the same (meaning the evenness of the walls).

That is why it is at this stage of work that one cannot do without a rubber hammer and a level. Also, you will need a rope that will be stretched between the corners of the future bathhouse.

If the question is how to build a bath from foam blocks with your own hands, and not a garage or utility room, then starting from the second row, the blocks should be laid on a special glue. You can easily find it in any hardware store, and it is diluted as a simple dry mortar - with water.

To prepare the mixture, you will need a small container or an electric drill with a whisk attachment, with which you can prepare a high-quality adhesive mass in a matter of minutes.

Attention! Do not spread glue on the rows with a greasy layer - only 0.5 cm of the solution will be enough for the block to lie flat on the row below.

Without this glue, you are unlikely to get a normal bathhouse: judging by the reviews, this substance does not require preliminary setting or a ripening period - it turns out that the structure will have dense and strong walls that do not have joints between all structural elements. And if the instructions for installing the bath are fully observed, then you can easily build such a structure with your own hands, even alone.

It should also be taken into account that every three rows of blocks, a layer of metal mesh should be laid between them - reinforcement will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

As for the ceilings for door and window openings, they are made by pouring concrete and installing formwork. In some cases, special additional elements can be used.

Vapor barrier walls - how to do it right

Before you start building your bathhouse, you should seriously think about how the walls will be insulated from the all-destroying steam. Judging by world experience, it is much more expedient to do this with the help of polymer vapor-tight membranes, which should be installed in the remaining gap between the wall and the cladding.

Also, I would like to note that for foam blocks it is not necessary to use special fasteners that are applicable to other types of walls (moths, screws, dowels, nails, etc.). In other words, you will need ordinary fixators for walls made of foam blocks, because the porous structure of the material to some extent even complicates the finishing work.

But as regards concealed wiring- it is much easier to make it in a foam concrete wall than in the same brick or concrete, and at the same time, additional insulation is not even required! As for window openings, doors and ceilings, the work is no different (in comparison with other types of buildings).

Features of the construction of the roof

If we consider many projects, it immediately becomes clear that the best option for a bath is a gable truss roof.

You can build it according to the following scheme:

• To begin with, we will lay a Mauerlat on the longitudinal walls, and the beam must be at least 18 cm thick. It is attached to special anchor bolts;
• On the ground, we begin to assemble the rafter template. To do this, take a couple of boards and connect them with their edges in such a way that you get “scissors” fastened together with nails. Free edges should be placed on the base and a suitable roof slope should be selected - then fasten the edges together cross bar. The entire structure obtained is securely scrolled with self-tapping screws in order to avoid breaking the angle;
• Further, a ready-made template should be attached to the beams measuring 15x50 cm and marked with a pencil where exactly the corner should be cut;
• After all the above procedures, you can safely proceed to cutting out the rafters, fastening them together with self-tapping screws, and from 3 to 5 self-tapping screws are screwed in at the crossing points for strength;
• Now, we raise the finished rafter frame to the roof and install it. Connections to the Mauerlat should be marked by notches, metal brackets or overlays;
• In exactly the same way, we make the next rafter frame and install it in place. After that, we stretch the cord between the frames, fix the trusses with the help of special supports and put them at an angle;
• According to the same scheme, we install all the frames and mount them on the roof in increments of 50 cm, checking the distance with a regular cord;
• Next, we prepare the crate - for this we need boards 10x40 cm, which you can easily fix on the rafters with nails or self-tapping screws. Moreover, the step must be done in such a way that the insulation does not fall between the boards;
• Now we proceed to the manufacture of the rough ceiling of the bath - we take 25 mm boards (thick) and fix them between the rafters. On top of them we lay polystyrene foam (about 19 cm thick) and cover it with the finishing floor of the attic. At the same time, do not forget to equip ventilation in the ceiling by making two small holes;
• The final stage - we lay the roofing material on the roof of the bath and nail the ridge detail. Don't forget the galvanized collar around the chimney.

Interior and exterior decoration

So, here we are getting to the final step of our work, namely, to the external and internal decoration of the building. If it is not produced, then the foam block walls will quickly lose their attractive appearance and stand even for less than 10 years!

If you start from exterior finish, then here you just have a bunch of options - siding, house blocks and even decorative plaster, which will create the effect of a fur coat. But the most acceptable option for this kind of baths is hinged ventilated facades. It is thanks to them that you can remove excess moisture from the walls into the atmosphere without any barriers, thereby protecting the facade from destruction.

As for the interior decoration, it all depends on your preferences and financial capabilities: the walls can be painted with polymer paint, lined with ceramic tiles or sheathed with wood (see also the article “Insulation of the bath from the inside: the most common technologies”).

Conclusion

We hope that now it has become clear to you how to build a foam block bath with your own hands. In the photo you will see some stages of the work being done, which are more difficult to perform. Remember that the price for this type of building is quite low (even taking into account external and internal decoration), so almost every resident of Russia can afford such a bathhouse without any problems.

The video in this article will cover all the issues related to this topic in more detail. Good luck in your endeavors!

Expanded clay blocks are rapidly gaining popularity among private developers. The material is excellent for use in the self-construction of residential and outbuildings, including baths of various sizes and configurations.

Bath from expanded clay concrete blocks - construction photo

Among the key advantages of expanded clay concrete, first of all, it should be noted excellent thermal insulation characteristics. For comparison: for blocks, this parameter is on average 200-300% higher than the similar property of a brick. At the same time, laying blocks is no more difficult than a brick taken for comparison: due to their low weight, they can be lifted, carried and laid alone without significant effort, which eliminates the need for the mandatory involvement of additional labor and special equipment. There are no complex masonry features either: anyone who has had to “communicate” with bricks can build a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks - the key principles are the same.

Comparison of building materials
Characteristics of expanded clay concrete blocks

No less important indicator for the conditions of residential construction is the absolute environmental safety of expanded clay concrete - there are no harmful chemical impurities in the composition of the blocks. In the process of heating, this material, unlike many "brothers", also does not emit anything toxic. Therefore, the blocks are great for building a bath.

But not everything is so clear. Expanded clay concrete blocks, like every building material, have their own weaknesses. The leader of the anti-rating is pronounced hygroscopicity. At this point, it would be possible to close your eyes, but not in the conditions of a bath with its high humidity. Yes, the saturation of the walls with water under normal conditions is not so scary, however, at the first frost, the accumulated moisture will freeze and expand, which after some time will inevitably lead to the destruction of the building material.

In terms of frost resistance, expanded clay concrete blocks also lose to many available options. According to GOST, the average number of freeze-thaw cycles of blocks is kept at 25-50. For residential construction in normal conditions - not the worst indicator. But in a bathhouse, which, for example, is melted 1-2 times a week during the cold season, and then left to cool by the owner, the mentioned number of cycles will be exhausted within a maximum of a couple of years.

To eliminate the above-mentioned risks, walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks are necessarily insulated and provided with moisture vapor barrier. A competent device for such protection will eliminate the risk of wetting and subsequent destruction of materials.

This concludes a brief excursion into the theoretical part. Further, your attention is invited to a detailed step-by-step guide for self-construction of a bath from expanded clay concrete blocks: from the device of the supporting structure to the installation of the roof and recommendations for the interior design of the premises.

Prices for expanded clay concrete blocks

expanded clay concrete blocks

The basis of the basics: we make the foundation for a block bath

The number of types of supporting structures is impressive: columnar and tape, monolithic and prefabricated, concrete and brick, etc. The choice of suitable foundation characteristics is of paramount importance, because without a reliable foundation, one cannot count on the normal service of the building.

A bath of expanded clay concrete blocks is best erected on a tape or slab concrete base. When choosing a specific option, we focus primarily on the type of soil on the site. Recommendations are reflected in the following illustration.

Features of the choice of other key characteristics of the foundation for a block bath are also determined mainly by the properties of the soil on the site.

Firstly, it is necessary to take into account the depth of soil freezing (usually they try to lay foundations at least 20-30 cm below this indicator).

Regions	Depth of soil freezing, cm
Vorkuta, Surgut, Nizhnevartovsk, Salekhard	240
Omsk, Novosibirsk	220
Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Kurgan, Kustanay	200
Yekaterinburg, Chelyabinsk, Perm	190
Syktyvkar, Ufa, Aktyubinsk, Orenburg	180
Kirov, Izhevsk, Kazan, Ulyanovsk	170
Samara, Uralsk	160
Vologda, Kostroma, Penza, Saratov	150
Voronezh, Perm, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Novgorod, Ryazan, Tambov, Tula, Yaroslavl	140
Volgograd, Kursk, Smolensk	120
Pskov, Astrakhan	110
Belgorod, Kursk, Kaliningrad	100
Rostov	90
Krasnodar	80
Nalchik, Stavropol	60

Secondly, it is necessary to correctly identify the type of soil at the construction site.

Thirdly, it is necessary to take into account the relationship between the level of groundwater passage and the depth of soil freezing.

The tape support structure can be used in combination with most existing soil types, which is why it is the most common.

Slab structures are not so versatile. They can only be used in combination with not particularly mobile soils.

Video - Strip foundation

Having chosen the best option for the supporting structure, only it will remain, after which it will be possible to proceed directly to. Detailed recommendations regarding each of the mentioned stages were given earlier in the relevant publications of our website.

Helpful advice! Decide in advance on the optimal dimensions and features of the internal layout of the bath. You can develop the project yourself, entrust it to a third-party specialist, or use one of the . The article discusses the projects of baths from a bar - this is unprincipled, the main thing is to choose a suitable internal configuration.

Preparation

Let's start by preparing the required fixtures. For greater convenience of perception, the information is presented in the form of a table.

Table. Work set

Position	purpose
	Will be used to seat blocks. It is recommended to take a tool weighing about 1 kg. A metal hammer will not work - contact with it can lead to the destruction of blocks.
	It doesn't need any additional introduction.
	Allows you to control the correctness (evenness) of laying blocks.
	It is used for applying masonry mortar. It is most convenient to use a tool with a rectangular platform.
	Use a thin, but as strong as possible cord-mooring.
	It will allow you to correctly mark the building elements before sawing into pieces.
	The tool allows you to control the evenness of the masonry vertically.
	It is used for cutting expanded clay concrete blocks. Also, this tool allows you to create strobes for placing reinforcement. Complete with a grinder, use a cutting wheel with a diameter of 22 cm or more.
	With this simple tool, you will load the concrete mixer with the original masonry mix components and transport the finished mortar to the job site.
	Designed for mixing the initial components of mortars. You can do without this device by preparing the mixture manually, but this will lead to an unreasonable increase in time and labor costs.
	Suitable for work at height. The best option is to rent a structure from the nearest construction company.

In addition to the above, buy the following:

• blocks directly;
• cement, sand and water or ready-made glue for laying blocks;
• heat and hydro vapor barrier materials;
• reinforcement (8-10 mm bars are suitable) or reinforcing mesh.

The list can be supplemented with various small things - at this moment you will orient yourself in the course of the work.

What to put blocks on?

Blocks can be placed on a cement-sand mixture or ready-made glue. Information about the available options is given in the table.

Table. Binder mixtures for laying expanded clay concrete blocks

Material	Description
	Sold as a dry mix. Preparation is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and comes down to mixing with the specified amount of water (sometimes additional substances are added to the mixture, it is specified separately in the instructions). To prepare the mixture, it is convenient to use a construction mixer or an electric drill with an appropriate nozzle. The block adhesive is characterized by high plasticity and excellent bonding characteristics. The use of the composition makes it possible to obtain joints with a thickness of about 0.5 cm, which provides higher thermal insulation properties of the structure, but increases the cost of its construction. The average consumption of glue for laying a cubic meter of blocks is from 40-50 kg and varies depending on the thickness of the joints. Several types of glue for expanded clay concrete blocks are available for sale: Standard - suitable for working with expanded clay concrete, gas silicate and other blocks. In addition to the main function, it can be used to eliminate minor block defects in the form of minor chips, cracks, etc.; Winter. Designed for laying in cold weather; Heat-saving. Allows you to build structures without "cold bridges", due to which the indicators of temperature losses are significantly reduced. Well suited for the construction of walls and partitions of the bath. Among the manufacturers that have proven themselves in the market of binder mixtures and binder components, one can note the brands SARMAT, Ilmax, LISMIX. Helpful advice! Many manufacturers of expanded clay concrete blocks offer an adhesive designed specifically for laying materials from their production. Whenever possible, these compounds should be used.
	In this case, the following materials are taken in the indicated quantities: Cement from M400 - one share; Sand - three shares; Water - 0.7 shares. The components are thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous composition is obtained. Attention! The indicated amount of water is an average and may vary depending on the moisture level of the sand used. As a result, you should get a plastic composition that allows you to seat the blocks without any extra effort. Along with this, the mixture should not spread. Helpful advice! To increase the elasticity of the mixture, instead of a certain proportion of quarry sand, river material can be taken. Prepare the solution in small portions, for about 1-2 hours of masonry work. It is better that the composition is constantly mixed in a concrete mixer - so its plasticity will be maintained at a sufficient level.

Choosing a method of laying walls

There are several methods for laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks. A suitable option is selected taking into account the design features, wall thickness, thermal insulation characteristics and finishing cladding. Information about the main methods of masonry is given in the table.

Table. Ways of laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks

Methods	Descriptions and explanations
Half a block	It is used when laying walls with a thickness equal to the width of the expanded clay concrete block (most often - 19 cm). When building a bath, this method can only be used if the building is very rarely used for its intended purpose. The block is placed with the long side along the partition line. Row is one. Every 3-4 rows, the masonry is reinforced with reinforcement. A reinforcing belt up to 200 mm high is erected at the top. For insulation, it is advisable to use expanded polystyrene or mineral wool materials. The optimal thickness of the heat-insulating layer is from 50-100 mm.
Full block wide	In this case, the walls are ligated, and the bond and spoon rows alternate. The width of such a wall is 39 cm, i.e. along the length of the building block.
Width 600 mm	This method has much in common with well brickwork. The blocks are tied up, there are voids between them. Thermal insulation material is used to fill free gaps.
two walls	2 parallel walls are laid out in half of the block. Metal rods are used for binding. A 5-10 cm heat-insulating layer is placed between the walls. The method guarantees high thermal insulation performance, and therefore is quite well suited for the construction of a bath.
with cladding	The walls are laid out in half a block or in a whole block. The method differs from the previous one only in that here, instead of the second parallel wall, a facing brick is used.

The choice of the appropriate method remains with the owner - the main points and the sequence of actions are preserved, so there will be no problems in the process of doing the work.

Important notes about seams

The optimal thickness of the seams is 0.6-0.8 cm (up to 1 cm if necessary). In the case of using ready-made mixtures, the thickness of the joints is often reduced (information on this subject is specified in the manufacturer's instructions).

Important! The thinner the seams between the blocks are made, the more plastic the solution must be used. Modern plastic mixtures allow to reduce the thickness of the seams to 3-4 mm.

The seams are filled completely according to the "undercut" method, a trowel is used to remove excess mortar. It is also possible to fill the interblock seams with a “waste” - in this case, the seam is left free by about half a centimeter. The use of the second method is usually resorted to if the wall is planned to be finished with plaster. Actually, where they will plaster, and leave space free from mortar.

1. Before laying the first row of the wall, the foundation is covered with waterproofing material. The scheme is simple: a layer of molten bitumen is applied over the base, roofing material is laid on top, smoothed and pressed to the surface. Repeat again. The resulting two-layer waterproofing will be of very high quality. It may be necessary to pre-level the surface of the base. Screeds up to 3 cm thick will suffice.

   

2. Use quality blocks. The use of dubious material with a geometry that deviates from the approved standards will lead to an increase in the consumption of the binder and, in general, a decrease in the operational, technical and quality characteristics of the finished structure.

   

   

3. Before laying the block on the mortar, lay out the row “dry” for the so-called. "samples".
4. Adjust the blocks only with a rubber mallet. At the same time, it is forbidden to hit hard - the building product can crack and break.

   

5. For sawing blocks, especially in the absence of previous experience in breaking them, use a grinder.

   

   Photo - sawing a block with a grinder

6. Choose the material for laying different parts of the building. So, it is customary to build external walls from blocks measuring 19x18.8x39 cm. Internal partitions can be laid from blocks measuring 19x9x39 cm or 12x19x39 cm.

Important! Before starting construction, you need to determine the optimal wall thickness. To save you from lengthy calculations, we immediately give a suitable value: 400-500 mm for the central regions. Residents of other climatic zones should proportionally reduce or increase the recommended indicators in accordance with the weather conditions in the area.

Nuances of reinforcement

As noted, walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks, as well as structures made of most other block building elements, are reinforced every 3-4 rows. In this section, you are invited to familiarize yourself with the order of this event so as not to return to it in the future.

In order for the finished structure to be as stable and reliable as possible, other elements of the building are also subjected to additional hardening, namely:

• first row (not always, but very desirable);
• bottom seams of window openings. Relevant for cases where the dimensions of the opening are more than 180 cm. In this case, the space is reinforced for a length of at least 0.5 m on each side of the opening;
• supporting surfaces of door and window lintels - also 50 cm or more in each direction from the opening.

Depending on the specifics of a particular project, other elements of the structure can be reinforced - it is determined on an individual basis.

Important note! Reinforcement and masonry technologies for most building blocks remain similar. Do not be afraid if the products presented in the following illustrations look different from the expanded clay concrete blocks you bought. The provisions of the considered technological processes are relevant.

Reinforcement is carried out using rods with a diameter of 8 mm or more (in this case, 2 longitudinal grooves measuring 4x4 cm along the length of the reinforcement are cut in the center of the blocks, the remaining space will be filled with mortar), or a mesh (made from wire with a diameter of 3-5 mm, mesh sizes - 5x5 cm (when arranging openings - 7x7 cm), from below and from above it is protected from corrosion with a 2-cm layer of masonry mortar), or reinforcing cages (paired steel strips connected by wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, are laid on a layer of glue, recessed into it and from above are covered with a second layer of glue / solution).

In the second and third cases, there are no particular difficulties - the technology is clear from the notes in brackets. Reinforcement with steel bars deserves separate consideration.

Rebar prices

fittings

Table. Block masonry reinforcement

Stage of work	Description
	As noted, strobes in the amount of two pieces are cut in the center, i.e. at equal distances from the edges of the block and its middle. An excellent assistant in this matter will be a manual or electric wall chaser, depending on the availability of electricity on the site. To do the job as efficiently as possible, you can pre-markup using suitable tools at hand, for example, a long straight rail and a marker. Also, the rail can be laid in the center of the block and simply make cuts along its side edges.
	Dust the interior of the strobe with a sweeping brush or building hair dryer.
	Insert the rods into the prepared strobes and cut to length. The Bulgarian will help you with this. In the absence of such, you can use a hand tool (hacksaw) or other suitable device.
	Having finished with fitting and cutting, remove the reinforcement from the strobe and do the following: Fill the recesses with mortar or block adhesive. Use the same binder as for construction; Push the reinforcing bars into the mortar; Get rid of excess mixture. Thanks to the solution, the metal will be protected from corrosion.

To arrange thin seams between blocks, the previously mentioned reinforcing frames can be used. It looks like this.

The diagram of the correct reinforcement of block walls is shown in the image.

Video - Reinforcement of walls from blocks

Wall masonry

So, the foundation is ready and covered with a layer of moisture-proof material in the form of a bunch of bitumen + roofing material, special waterproofing cardboard or other suitable material. You can start building walls. The sequence is described in the table.

Table. Wall masonry made of expanded clay concrete blocks

Stage of work	Description
	On top of the waterproofing of the foundation, a solution is laid, chosen for fastening expanded clay concrete blocks. Recommended layer thicknesses according to the parameters of the mixture used were given earlier. At this stage, a trowel will help you. Also, to apply the mixture, you can use a scoop or a ladle of a plasterer, followed by leveling with a trowel - as you prefer. With the help of this layer deviations from the level will be leveled. If the surface of your foundation is flat, or you did the alignment before that, skip the step.
	The applied leveling layer of the solution requires additional processing, which boils down to pouring cement dust over it - this will lead to an increase in the bearing capacity of the binder components. In addition, such processing will eliminate the possibility of immersing the building block in a relatively soft solution - otherwise the block would have sagged and there would be no point in applying a leveling layer. Pour a little (literally 1-3 mm) of clean cement over the mortar / glue layer. Soon a carrier film forms on the surface.
	One of the most responsible and important stages of work. Helpful advice! Before laying, let the blocks soak for a minute in cold water. The material will be saturated with moisture and will not take it from the solution / glue, thereby deteriorating the quality of adhesion. Install the first block of expanded clay concrete strictly in the corner of the intersection of the future outer walls. Level the product with a level and light taps with a rubber mallet. In a similar way, install the blocks in the remaining corners of the future bath. After that, make sure that the lengths of the diagonals are the same, just like you did in the foundation stage. Stretch guide cords between the corner blocks to mark the future walls of the bath - this will allow you to lay the blocks strictly on the same level. Ignoring this recommendation and trying to build "by eye" will soon result in swelling, deformation and destruction of structures.
	Continue laying out the corner in accordance with the considered technology. The solution is usually not applied to the side walls. The exceptions are: A block that joins the front surface of perpendicularly installed building elements; Sliced ​​products. Having laid out the corner to approximately the same size as in the photo, check the quality of the work performed using the building level. Get rid of the detected deviations using a rubber mallet.
	Before proceeding with the construction of walls, it is better to lay out each corner for at least 3 rows. Control the evenness of laying each row of blocks. The building level will help you with this.
	Check the verticality of the masonry after arranging each row. At this stage, a tool called a plumb line will help you. Horizontalness is controlled by the mason's cord (mooring) and the level. This point will be covered further.
	Start building the wall after laying several corner rows. To control the verticality of the masonry, use the order. The tool is shown in the photo and is represented by a simple straight rail with marks for the height of the blocks. Important note! Rows of the wall are laid out from the corner elements. Having reached the bottom of the opening under the window, the masonry is carried out from the corner in the direction of the nearest wall.
	Do not forget to stretch the mooring cord between the corner blocks when laying out each row. With this simple device, it will be easier for you to control the evenness of laying building elements in a horizontal plane. The principle is simple: Pulled the cord; Laid block; Aligned the building element with respect to the rope and the rest of the blocks with a rubber mallet.

Video - Laying a corner from blocks

Video - Laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks

You got acquainted with the technology of laying walls from block building elements. Do not forget to perform reinforcement in accordance with the recommendations received earlier.

Important technological aspects of laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks

To successfully complete the work, you need to understand a number of technological nuances. These points will be covered next.

What should be the dressing of expanded clay concrete blocks?

As noted, the construction is carried out according to the brickwork principle: vertical joints between expanded clay concrete blocks in different rows are shifted by half the block.

The minimum shift in the walls, laid out from full-sized expanded clay blocks - 100 mm. A diagram of the correct ligation of full-sized blocks is shown in the image.

For cases when the wall is laid out with the use of cut (not full-sized) elements, the following dressing scheme is relevant.

How to connect the internal and external load-bearing walls?

If possible, build an external load-bearing wall along with an internal one. Make the connection like this:

• lay the first row of the internal load-bearing wall right next to the external one. Use SOLUTION;
• when laying the next row, start the block of the inner wall to the outer one by about 100-150 mm. To do this, cut the expanded clay block of the outer wall to the specified value;
• insulate the connection with 50 mm layers of foam or mineral wool. Due to this, the lower indicator of thermal insulation properties of the expanded clay concrete block of the inner bath wall will be compensated.

The laying of partitions is carried out after the completion of the construction of the bearing bath walls. Anchors are pre-installed in them to ensure the subsequent pairing of internal partitions and finished load-bearing walls. The ends of the anchors are placed in the horizontal seams of the outer wall and the seams of the partition. The necessary holes can be made with a drill.

In most situations, the construction of walls and partitions from full-sized blocks alone is not possible. Cutting of building elements is carried out in place, i.e. in accordance with the dimensions of the empty gap left after laying full-sized expanded clay concrete blocks. For cutting, a circular saw or an electromechanical saw is suitable.

Many craftsmen adapt a jigsaw for this. It is better to refrain from using a grinder: an excessive amount of heat generated can lead to the destruction of a building element. The cutting technology itself consists of 2 stages: mark the block and get rid of the excess.

Helpful advice! For arranging openings, try, if possible, to use not cuttings of building elements, but special additional blocks - reduce the number of cuts and ensure a higher quality of work.

Video - Cutting blocks

Not full-sized building elements must be embedded in the masonry. It is better to do this at the maximum distance from the slopes of the openings to be equipped and the corners of the building being erected. The offset of vertical joints when laying non-full-sized blocks is at least 40 mm.

Important! Vertical seams between solid and cut blocks must be filled with mortar.

How to equip vertical seams?

In most areas, vertical joints are not filled with mortar. The following places are an exception:

• connections of solid and cut blocks;
• connections of external walls with internal partitions are highly desirable;
• corner block connections.

How to drill holes in block walls?

Holes for water pipes, sockets and other similar things are prepared with a drill with a simple or coronary drill.

Important note! When drilling with a drill, switch it to work in non-impact mode.

How to make furrows in the walls of the blocks?

Furrows for electrical wires are made as follows:

• 2 parallel cuts are prepared in the wall. For this, a circular saw is used;
• expanded clay between the prepared cuts is removed with a chisel and a metal hammer;
• the furrow is cleaned of dust and used for its intended purpose.

If desired, you can purchase or rent a tool specially designed for such work - a furrower.

Important! According to the technology, before the arrangement of furrows, it is necessary to perform appropriate calculations for strength indicators. Without such, it is only allowed to make recesses, the dimensions of which do not exceed the parameters indicated in the following table.

There are a number of significant notes regarding the above information.

First, the parameter of the maximum canal depth should be considered as relevant for any hole made in the niche/canal preparation process.

Secondly, if the vertical channel rises more than a third of the room in relation to the ceiling, it can be made 8 cm deep and 12 cm wide, provided that the wall thickness is at least 22.5 cm.

Thirdly, the distance between the furrows and recesses should be from 22.5 cm.

Fourthly, if the niches are located on the same wall, a gap must be maintained between them that is at least 2 times the width of the larger niche.

Fifth, to determine the maximum allowable total width of furrows and recesses, you need to multiply the length of the wall by a factor of 0.13.

Helpful advice! It is not recommended to make oblique and horizontal channels. If they must be present, a distance equal to at least 1/8 of the height of the room must be maintained between them and the floor / ceiling. Without performing additional calculations, the channels can be made with a depth not exceeding the values ​​from the table.

How to make jumpers over openings?

There are quite a few ways to arrange jumpers over window / door openings, for example, they can be made from special-shaped blocks or ordinary bricks. We offer you the simplest, fastest and most convenient method to implement, which involves the use of ready-made ordinary jumpers. Suitable for use on both interior and exterior walls. The number of jumpers varies depending on the thickness of the wall and its functional purpose.

The depth of embedding the jumper into the wall is selected taking into account the width of the opening. The minimum allowable indicator is 125 mm. The principle is simple: the lintels are laid over the opening, a part of the material is cut out of the blocks according to the shape and size of the lintel, the laying of the walls continues to the required height.

With its smaller side, the jumper is installed on a 1.2-cm layer of cement mortar. In the case of such products, temporary mounting supports are usually not used.

The jumper laying technology is shown in the photo.

In the same photo, a heat-insulating liner is visible. It can be made from mineral wool. The recommended layer thickness is 80-120 mm. Having mounted a set of jumper beams, firmly tie them with a knitting wire. It will ensure the correct position of the structural elements until the arrangement of the overlying row.

Mounted jumpers immediately begin to perform a carrier function. Products are available for sale, the height of which corresponds to the height of the blocks, which minimizes the number of undercuts. At the same time, the surface of the wall will form a single, even base with the lintel, which will allow the subsequent finishing to be carried out with the highest quality, for example, using plaster.

If you cannot find suitable jumpers on sale, you can make them yourself, for example, based on the corners, following the recommendations from the following video.

Video - Do-it-yourself jumper installation over openings

You have familiarized yourself with all the technological aspects of laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks. If you wish, you can use the same guide when working with blocks from other materials - construction is carried out according to the same principles.

Instructions for arranging floors

As a rule, in addition to the lower tier, the bath has at least an attic half-floor, as a maximum - 1 or more additional upper floors. To distinguish between tiers, floors are equipped. Both interfloor and attic floors can be made following the provisions of the same technology.

You are invited to read the instructions for self-assembly of this structural element below.

One of the most popular flooring options is a reinforced concrete slab. But we will refuse this option. Firstly, the financial, labor and time costs for its development will be unreasonably high. Secondly, you will have to perform a lot of calculations to determine the load created by the ceiling, and to understand whether the walls and foundation of the bath can withstand operation in such conditions.

In such conditions, it is much more expedient to resort to the use of a wooden interfloor ceiling. The design is relatively simple to arrange and is built in less time at relatively low financial costs (when compared with a reinforced concrete slab).

What is the cover made of?

For arranging the floor, it is best to use dry coniferous wood, designed specifically for use in such conditions (the material must comply with the standards of the construction industry - check with the seller for the availability of related documents confirming this fact).

Helpful advice! If you wish, you can spend additional funds and make overlaps with the minimum wage. Construction professionals often refer to such structures as "skeletons". Products are characterized by high strength and load-bearing capacity, provide effective fastening of parts of the structure and are available in lengths up to 12 m. lay the ends on the long sides of the building (so that it sags less), the specified length, since we are talking about a bath, in the vast majority of cases will be enough.

You can find the characteristics of different types of wood in the following table.

The interfloor overlap is at the same time the ceiling beams of the lower tier and the lags of the floor of the upper floor.

Photo - fastening floor beams

Before using the timber for its intended purpose, it must be impregnated with an antiseptic and flame retardant. These tools increase the resistance of the material to decay and fire. Sections of beams resting on walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks must be tarred and wrapped with roofing material to provide effective protection against the harmful effects of moisture - without such treatment, the wood will simply rot and the structure will last very little.

Attach the roofing material in any suitable way. Fasten with a stapler or nails with a wide hat. Please note that two layers of roofing material are used for waterproofing, and the length of the insulation layer should be at least 25 cm, and the roofing material should protrude 3 cm beyond the inner wall boundary.

Thermal insulation of floors separating rooms with approximately the same temperature can be omitted. Part of the structure that separates, for example, a steam room and an upstairs room or a heated floor and an attic must be insulated.

Waterproofing of floors is carried out in areas that cover rooms with an increased level of humidity: washing room, steam room, etc. Recommendations regarding were given earlier in the relevant material of our site. The instruction is devoted to the installation of the ceiling, but for wooden floors, the recommendations remain the same.

Important! When choosing a beam section for arranging a floor, first of all, consider the size of the span: the beam section must correspond to at least a sixteenth of the mentioned indicator. Additionally, you need to take into account the load. Recommendations regarding these nuances are given in the table.

Having decided on the optimal type of wood and the necessary operational and technical characteristics of the timber, proceed directly to the stage of arranging the floor.

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

We offer the simplest option for placing floor beams. Many experts recommend pre-cutting openings for timber in the blocks of the upper row of the wall, but this is long and laborious. Much easier to do as shown in the image below.

Here the beams are made of knocked down boards, but the meaning remains the same. Elementary technology:

• beams with preselected characteristics and pitch are laid on the top row of expanded clay concrete blocks. The minimum entry of the beam on the block is 50 mm. In practice, they usually adhere to an indicator of 100-150 mm. The previously mentioned waterproofing is visible in the photo;
• the space between the beams is filled with expanded clay concrete blocks, pre-sawn to the desired parameters. The height of full-sized blocks in most cases is 190 mm. If the timber will have smaller parameters, the problem will be solved by cutting off the excess part from the block. If the block is lower than the used beam (which is extremely rare), the disadvantage is leveled with the help of additional elements or a cut of the same expanded clay concrete block;
• further, the walls of the upper floor continue to be laid out in accordance with standard technology.

The image shows intermediate beams designed to strengthen the structure. Used when necessary. Conclusions about the expediency of their application are made at the stage of drawing up project documentation. The parameters of the beams, with the exception of the length, usually correspond to the characteristics of the main elements. Bonding is carried out in a suitable manner. In the presented example, these are metal corners and self-tapping screws.

Detailed information about you can get in the corresponding publication of our website. The information is focused on the ceiling, but its relevance in the case of wooden beams remains.

In a similar sequence, floors are made between other floors and the attic.

Video - Wooden floor

What to do next?

The "box out" is complete. What are the next steps?

1. First, you need .
2. Second, you need to complete the steps associated with the .

Video - Bath from expanded clay concrete blocks

After several years of owning a summer cottage, I decided to build my own bathhouse. The planned dimensions are 5x5.3 m, the height to the ceiling is 2.25 m. The bathhouse is small, family-type, with a gable roof and small attic(height from the floor of the attic to the ridge of the roof -1.9 m). For a long time I thought about the material of construction, I decided to focus on gas silicate blocks. The walls of the bathhouse and the pediments of the attic were built from them. Inside, the steam room was insulated with a standard "pie" of insulation, vapor barrier and lining. In the rest room and in the attic, gas silicate was lined with clapboard, in the washing room it was tiled. I’ll tell you about all the stages of construction and inner lining the walls of my gas silicate bath.

Why were gas silicate blocks chosen?

When I first started construction, many neighbors in the dacha community asked me a question about why I chose gas silicate blocks. Somehow everyone got used to either wood or brick. And my arguments are:

• Fast installation. The size of gas silicate blocks is larger than bricks, so the construction of walls from them is much faster.
• High thermal insulation. Gas silicate belongs to cellular concrete, that is, it has many air cells inside. They play the role of heat insulators. Therefore, a bath made of gas silicate blocks, in comparison with a brick one, warms up faster and retains heat longer. In terms of thermal insulation qualities, gas silicate is not inferior to wood.
• Fire resistance. Gas silicate blocks do not burn, unlike wooden structures.
• The impossibility of decay.
• Low cost compared to brick, timber or logs.

In addition, I have a good command of bricklaying skills, so I decided that I would be able to cope with gas silicate blocks.

I'll start in order.

The erection of the walls of the building

The block laying was carried out according to the already finished strip foundation protected by two layers of roofing material waterproofing. Blocks with dimensions of 200x300x600 mm were used. I put them on edge, that is, the thickness of the walls turned out to be 200 mm.

The construction of gas silicate walls will be carried out on a strip foundation

For masonry, a cement mortar was used, mixed in a ratio of 3: 1 (the ratio of sand to cement).

The work was carried out according to the following plan.

Stage # 1 - laying the first row of blocks on the foundation

I started laying from the corner, which (according to laser level) was the highest. I applied a solution (about 5 mm) to the roofing material with a trowel, and pressed the block from above. For better fastening, I tapped the blocks with a trowel handle.

The first row is the most important, the rest of the rows of blocks will be equal to it. Therefore, the accuracy of laying the blocks of the first row must be constantly monitored. building level in 3 directions.

If necessary, cutting blocks, I used a grinder with diamond discs on concrete. By the way, I once saw how the workers of the construction team cut the blocks with a chainsaw. It turned out very quickly. So whichever one of these tools you have, use that one.

Stage #2 - building walls

The subsequent rows of blocks were stacked with an offset of 15 cm. That is, the seams of the overlying blocks turned out to be shifted by 15 cm in relation to the underlying ones. Gradually, walls were built to a height of 2.25 m.

The walls of the bath from gas silicate blocks are laid out to the ceiling

Stage # 3 - the construction of gables

The pediments were built according to the same principle as the walls, to a height of 1.9 m in the ridge. Unless there was more trouble with cutting blocks!

The pediments of the bath were also lined with gas silicate

The device of the "pie" of insulation in the steam room

I would like to see the internal surfaces of the bath in wood finish. Almost for next to nothing, I managed to buy an aspen edged board machine 20 mm thick, 125 mm wide. I used it for finishing, having previously smoothed the surfaces with a planer and a grinder. It turned out good!

Despite the good thermal insulation qualities of gas silicate, additional insulation never hurt. Especially in the steam room, where temperature changes and high humidity. Without insulation, condensate flows through the gas silicate. For blocks, this is not very good, but for lining it is generally fatal. First it will twist, then it will rot.

Therefore, I decided to equip the steam room with a traditional “pie” of insulation: insulation - vapor barrier - lining.

The planned was carried out according to the following scheme.

Stage # 1 - stuffing rails on the walls and laying insulation

Paroc mineral wool should be laid on gas silicate, inserting mats between the stuffed laths.

I fixed the slats 50x50 mm vertically on the walls using wood screws. It turned out that they are easily screwed into the gas silicate and firmly held in it. A 50 mm thick insulation was laid between the rails. I tried to lay it tightly, squeezing the cotton a little before installing it in the slatted “window”. It is important here to prevent cracks, otherwise cold bridges will nullify all thermal insulation.

Laying insulation between the rails stuffed on the wall

Stage # 2 - installation of a vapor barrier layer

Two materials were used for vapor barrier - Metaspan film and foil. First, I shot Metaspan on the rails with an overlap of about 15-20 cm. Then - foil, with the same overlap. The joints of both one and the other layer were glued with foil tape. Such a vapor barrier will not only prevent the access of moisture and steam to the Paroc insulation, but will also serve as a kind of continuation of the insulation layer. Foil vapor barrier Metaspan + aluminium foil will serve as a reflective mirror for thermal infrared rays coming from the steam room. The rays will be sent back, respectively, the quality of thermal insulation will increase.

Fastening the foil vapor barrier Metaspan over the insulation

Stage # 3 - making a crate for clapboard cladding

In order for the condensate to flow freely over the foil and not be absorbed into the lining, a ventilation gap was made. To do this, the crate had to be “pushed away” from the foil with the help of pre-nailed small bars 2 cm thick.

Thus, at first, through the foil (to the slats), I nailed the bars, and on them I already fixed the crate of boards horizontally.

The horizontal crate for fastening the lining is made of boards

Stage # 4 - clapboard lining

Sheathing with clapboard along the crate was carried out vertically with the help of small nails.

Internal wall cladding with double aspen clapboard

At first I thought that I would not process the lining in the steam room with anything. But then I decided to play it safe from all sorts of rot and covered the boards with one layer of oil from Tikkurill "Supi Saunasuoja". The oil is colorless, but forms a matte film on the wood.

On this, the design of the walls of the steam room was completed.

Wash tile cladding

There should not be any special temperature differences in the washing room, so I decided to do without special waterproofing. Just tile the gas silicate with tiles - and that's it.

Bought ceramic tiles increased strength 8 mm thick. Laid on frost-resistant moisture-resistant glue. The glue was smeared on the wall with a layer of about 10 mm, and the tile was pressed against it. All rows were controlled by the building level horizontally and vertically.

Sheathing of the rest room and attic

For cladding, I used the same aspen lining as in the steam room. I just sewed it on the slats already horizontally. No vapor or thermal insulation was used.

First of all, I fixed vertical slats (from boards) on the gas silicate walls. He nailed a lining to them with nails.

Vertical rails are mounted on gas silicate blocks using wood screws

Sheathing of the walls of the rest room with aspen clapboard was carried out horizontally

Upon completion of the work, he covered the lining with antiseptic impregnation "Ancient Khron Oak" (Polifarb) in 2 layers. The second layer was applied after the first one had dried, that is, the next day.

Results of the work

The cladding I made does not betray the presence of gas silicate walls. Entering the bathhouse, it seems that you are in a wooden frame. And what aromas come from the aspen lining when heating the steam room!

This is what the wall looks like front door in the break room!

In general, gas silicate blocks are an excellent material for building a bath. Plus, it's inexpensive. Construction of a gas silicate bath, compared with wooden frame, will be much cheaper.