When they start processing. Spring treatment of the garden against pests and diseases: spraying, timing, schedule, preparations. How to treat fruit trees and shrubs in early spring before and after bud break, after flowering? Garden treatment in spring before and during

Treating your garden against pests and diseases in the fall is extremely important.

There are several reasons for this:

• Autumn garden treatment is a good preventive procedure, reducing the number of overwintering pathogens;
• autumn warmth and humid air stimulate the proliferation of microbes and bacteria. at this time they penetrate the sap flow system and are spread throughout the tree;
• It is recommended to carry out autumn garden treatment at the beginning of leaf fall, and during this period the main work has already been completed, the gardener has more free time;
• there is still a lot of time before the fruits ripen and can be applied more concentrated and effective mixtures;
• special attention should be paid to the treatment of young trees. Their immune system has not yet strengthened and untreated trees may not survive until spring;
• autumn treatment with increased concentrations of drugs destroys most insects settling in for the winter.

Processing times

Optimal time autumn processing it could be considered beginning of leaf fall.

At this time, the leaves have already turned yellow, but still remain on the tree and are convenient to process. Even high concentrations of solutions will not harm the tree - there is no longer any need for leaves.

The soil under the trees is not yet covered with fallen leaves and it also needs to be treated with a prepared pesticide. Thus, we will destroy pests that have gone to the soil for the winter and are waiting for insulation from the leaves.

Preparing the tree

Starting in mid-autumn, trees begin to prepare for winter. The winter hardiness of trees can be increased by adding phosphorus and.

The bases of skeletal branches and the tree trunk are cleaned of dead bark and pests hidden in its cracks. At the same time, the trunks and bases of the branches are covered with a protective layer of garden whitewash. The trunks of young trees are tied with roofing felt, covering material or nylon tights.

How to spray fruit trees?

For spraying the garden autumn period can be used:

• inkstone;
• carbamide or urea;
• drug 30B;
• diesel fuel;
• bishal;
• soap-copper emulsion.

inkstone

Trees are treated with a solution iron sulfate either before the beginning of the growing season, or with the beginning of leaf fall. Dissolved in water, this powder helps fight diseases of pome and stone fruit trees, and berry bushes. The effect of iron sulfate is detrimental to moniliosis, spotting, and scab.

To treat the garden, use a 5-7 percent solution of the substance. To prepare the working fluid you need:

• 500-700 g of powder is dissolved in a small amount of warm water;
• after complete dissolution, the volume of liquid is adjusted to 10 l;
• the strained mixture is poured into a sprayer;
• set up a very fine spray;
• Evenly cover the leaves and branches with the solution; it is not scary if some of the liquid gets on the ground. It also needs to be sprayed.

Copper sulfate

Copper sulfate of wasps or copper sulfate is a recognized fungicide that helps in the fight against spotting, rot, scab, coccomycosis, and lichens.

Working solution copper sulfate for garden treatment it should have a 3-5% concentration. It is prepared in the same way as iron sulfate, only 300-500 g of powder is taken for the same amount of water. Prepare and use in the same way.

Urea or carbamide

The use of urea or urea for autumn garden treatment includes treatment of trees and the soil underneath. The timing of such treatment is the beginning of leaf fall. A strong urea solution can burn out all wintering forms of pests and diseases.

Procedure for processing trees:

• 700 g of urea or carbamide is dissolved in 10 liters of water;
• process unfallen leaves and tree trunks;
• The tree trunk circle is treated with the same product.

It is necessary to use such a liquid for autumn garden treatment as late as possible. nitrogen, a loading dose of which is contained in the solution, can cause the growth of new shoots. In the spring, there is no need to apply nitrogen fertilizers to trees treated with urea.

Preparation 30v

Insecto-acaricidal “Preparation 30B” destroys in the garden and on berry bushes wintering pests: scale insects, whiteflies, leaf rollers, aphids, mites, moths.

The drug disrupts the air and water balance of insects, leading to their death. Pests cannot adapt to the action of the drug; it can be used annually. The advantages of the product include environmental Safety, high efficiency, excellent adhesion, can be used all season from spring to autumn. The drug has a contact effect, it must be applied without leaving untreated areas.

The drug is very easy to dilute. It is simply dissolved in water and used within the next 2 hours after dilution.

Treatments are carried out at outdoor temperatures above +4°C.

The concentration of the solution for treating trees and shrubs is 3-4%.

The protective effect of the drug lasts from 5 to 10 days. After treatment, you can harvest the crop after 20 days.

Diesel fuel or diesel fuel (DF)

Diesel oil is an oily liquid. After treating the tree with such a liquid, an oil film forms on the surface of the bark, destroying pests by clogging their breathing holes.

Diesel fuel, being the result of oil refining, is not considered an environmentally friendly substance, and therefore it is dangerous to use it in the spring. It is best to use this product in the fall; by the time of harvest, it will completely disintegrate and will not remain in the ripened fruits.

Successful recipes for using diesel fuel:

• 1 part of iron sulfate is dissolved in 10 parts of water;
• add 10 parts of lime milk of 10% concentration;
• 20 parts of diesel fuel are added to the resulting mixture;
• the resulting mixture is used to treat plantings after leaf fall.

Another successful recipe:

• 5 parts clay are dissolved in 5 parts water;
• 20 parts of diesel fuel are added to the resulting mixture;
• The resulting emulsion is used to treat the plantings.

Another solution effective in pest control:

• grind 1 part of laundry soap;
• the shavings are dissolved in 9 parts of water;
• 10 parts of diesel fuel are added to the resulting solution;
• We treat the garden with the resulting emulsion.

When using diesel fuel, you need to remember that the density of it and water is very different, and you won’t be able to get a complete solution. When water and diesel fuel are mixed, an emulsion is formed, which very quickly separates into two fractions. Keeping this in mind, when working with such a mixture, you need to periodically shake the solution.

Bordeaux liquid

Bordeaux mixture is a mixture of copper sulfate and lime in a 1:1 ratio. This mixture destroys foci of diseases (moniliosis, spotting, rot and fungal diseases, scab), and also destroys wintering forms of insects.

To prepare Bordeaux mixture you will need lime, copper sulfate, water, any non-metallic utensils and litmus paper:

• in a non-metallic container in small quantities hot water dilute 1 kg of copper sulfate and bring to 50 l;
• in another container, quench 1 kg of quicklime and dilute the solution to 50 liters, filter;
• immediately before use, both solutions are combined - a solution of copper sulfate is added to the milk of lime (not vice versa).
• the resulting mixture is checked with litmus paper - the solution reaction should be neutral;
• for better adhesion of the solution, add 100 g of sugar or 5 cups of paste per 100 liters of liquid;
• The finished mixture can be purchased at a garden store.

Bordeaux mixture should be used in warm, dry, windless weather. Up to 10 liters are used per tree.

Bishal

Autumn and early spring treatment of fruit trees can be carried out using the drug Bishal. This is a solution of the natural remedy bischofite. It contains almost all the microelements necessary for plants.

Depending on the concentration, this solution can be used to treat trees before buds open or before leaf fall, it can be used to treat the garden by green leaf, and it can be used to soak seeds.

Autumn treatment of the garden with a bishali solution will destroy pests preparing for winter, bacterial, viral and fungal infections.

For autumn treatment, bishal is diluted in a ratio of 1:10.

Bishal, like urea, burns out all the infection that remains in the crevices of the bark, but unlike urea it contains many essential microelements.

The advantages of bishali include the absence of a waiting period after processing the garden.

Soap-copper emulsion

Another product for autumn garden treatment is soap-copper emulsion. The recipe for making it is very simple:

• 10 g of copper sulfate is dissolved in 0.5 liters of water;
• 100 g of planed laundry soap are diluted separately in warm water;
• a soap solution is added to the solution of copper sulfate, the volume of the mixture is adjusted to 10 l;
• if the water is hard (flakes appear in the solution), you can add 50 g of soda ash.

If there is a high number of overwintering pests or severe infection, the doses of soap and copper sulfate are increased by 2-3 times.

Every summer resident knows how important it is to seasonally treat fruit crops against diseases and pests. It is especially important to do this in the spring. Such an event can prevent the invasion of harmful insects and prevent the appearance of pathogenic microbes, which in turn ensures good yield. Therefore, many gardeners are interested in the question of when to spray fruit trees from pests.

When to treat

Treatment and preventive work should begin in early spring.

• When warm, dry weather sets in, the air temperature will be at least 6°C (late March - early April, but depends on the region, better after the snow has melted). At this time, insect pests begin to wake up and pathogens of fungal infections (scab, rot, moniliosis) begin to spread.
• It is necessary to clear the garden of remaining leaves and grass before irrigating fruit trees and bushes. To do this, you should remove winter covering materials, trim off diseased, damaged, old branches, and burn all plant debris. You also need to dig up the tree trunks and whiten the trunks and skeletal branches.
• Trees older than 6 years are cleared of ancient bark, moss, and lichen. Such manipulations allow plants to breathe better, stimulate the appearance of new shoots, and increase their regenerative functions.
• After preparatory activities, spring treatment of trees and shrubs begins.

The procedures are carried out in several stages:

• until the buds swell;
• before the plants begin to flower (to prevent the inflorescences from dying, the concentration of the drugs is made weak);
• The last spraying is carried out at the end of May, after the trees stop blooming and fruits begin to set. Therefore, the answer to the question of what can be used to spray trees against pests during the flowering period is obvious - nothing.

Important! During the flowering of the garden, it is unacceptable to use insecticides and fungicides. You can take biological substances that will stimulate the formation of fruits or use folk ways. Usually the drug ovary is used.

Spraying fruit trees against pests

Processing means

Each gardener chooses his own methods of protecting the garden. Today it is not difficult, because there is a large number of disinfectants, medicinal preparations suitable for different periods.

Note! All solutions must be prepared before use, otherwise they can damage plants while remaining harmless to insects.

How to spray trees and shrubs against pests in spring? Ready-made store-bought or folk remedies.

Chemical compositions

Such substances are considered the most effective because:

• act quickly;
• perfectly soluble in water;
• the effect lasts for a long time;
• each substance has its own decomposition period;
• can be used at low temperatures: from 5°C.

Thus, it is better to carry out the first treatments with them.

Among all the variety that can be used to treat fruit trees in early spring against diseases and pests, the most common are:

Diesel fuel

It must be used at a certain time and extremely carefully, otherwise you can destroy the plants. Be sure to wear gloves, closed clothing, and a respirator.

They begin to spray trees when there is still snow left in some places and there are no buds on the branches. In autumn, it is recommended to carry out the procedure after all the leaves have fallen and the first frosts occur.

Diesel fuel

Such a petroleum product cannot be used in its pure form. It should be diluted in a large amount of water, adding any other substances that neutralize the harmful effects of diesel fuel.

You can prepare such a mixture. Its concentration will be no more than 50%:

• solarium - 10 parts;
• water - 9 parts;
• laundry soap, grated - 1 part.

Copper sulfate

It is used no more than 2 times a year. The first spraying is done in early spring before the buds appear, otherwise all the young foliage may die.

The product is also used if there are cracks in the trees that need to be disinfected.

Important! Plants need to be sprayed again at the end of October. This will protect fruit crops from scab, phylostecosis, moniliosis, clusteroporosis, and curl.

A young tree (no more than 6 years old) requires 2 liters of the mixture, an adult specimen - 10 liters. Prepare the following composition for primary treatment: copper sulfate, lime (0.3 kg per 10 liters of water). Mix everything together, leave for 48 hours. Then boil for 45 minutes, filter, add 1 bucket of water.

Copper sulfate

The next irrigation will require the same substances, only in reduced quantities (0.1 kg per 10 liters of water). Repeat all manipulations according to the previous scheme.

inkstone

If the garden is filled with old fruit trees, then spraying is carried out in early spring, as well as late in autumn (300 g per 10 liters of water). The substance successfully fights cytosporosis, septosporosis, black cancer, harmful insects, mosses, and lichens. Helps increase fruit yield and enriches plants with iron.

Bordeaux liquid

It is used when there are unopened buds. Make a solution: dry vitriol (50 g), lime (0.2 kg), water (1 bucket). All ingredients are mixed and the trees are pollinated.

Bordeaux liquid

Preparation 30

Experienced summer residents advise spraying trees with a solution in early spring or late autumn (0.2 liters of substance per 10 liters of water). It will help get rid of aphids, whiteflies, leaf rollers, mites and other insects that overwinter in the bark of trees.

Note! Substance 30 is very effective; it can be used no more than once in 3 seasons.

Urea

It is used to treat trunks and branches 1 week after flowering ends. fruit crops, as well as in the pre-winter period.

To spray trees in the spring you should take urea (0.5 kg), copper sulfate (1 Matchbox), water (10 l).

The autumn composition is made after the plants have shed half of their leaves (0.25 kg of substance per 10 liters of water). But you can treat trees when the leaves have completely fallen. Then the solution is made more saturated (8%). In this case, both the plant and the soil are irrigated. In addition, the product will fertilize the soil.

Urea

Separately, it is worth noting the old proven means.

• Spark (10 ml per 1 liter of water). Apply after the plants have flowered. The product protects the garden from sucking and gnawing insects, moths, leaf rollers, cutworms, sawflies, and other pests.
• Karbofos (90 g per 10 liters of water - for fruit trees and 70 g - berry bushes) will protect plants from caterpillars, aphids, mites, weevils, moths, scale insects. Spray the first time when the buds open, the second time before flowering.

Important! Plants should be treated in dry, sunny weather. Rain will wash away all the substances, and the work will be done in vain.

Biological control measures

IN Lately These methods of controlling pests and diseases have become increasingly popular. They have a number of advantages:

• do not accumulate in soil or fruits;
• do not burn plants;
• they can be used in small quantities.

Flaws:

• act slowly;
• used at temperatures above 10°C.

The most famous of them:

• trichodermin is used during the period of bud emergence (effectively fights scab, various types rot);
• pentaphage protects against holey spotting and bacterial cancer;
• planriz vs powdery mildew, brown rust, lepidopteran pests;
• phytodoctor prevents late blight, fusarium, and root rot;
• phytosporin M suppresses fungal and bacterial infections;
• gaupsin is a universal drug against diseases and insects;
• Mikosan forms a thin film on trees against pathogenic microorganisms.

Folk remedies

Many owners of summer cottages use ecological methods to protect fruit crops. They can be used simultaneously with chemicals (at any time). They use:

• various types of weeds (celandine, wormwood);
• spicy herbs: dill, thyme, horseradish, fennel;
• pine needles;
• tomato, potato tops;
• chamomile, nettle;
• salt, mustard powder;
• garlic, hot pepper.

Here are some recipes.

• Wormwood (400 g per 10 liters of water). Boil for 30 minutes, add 40 g of green or laundry soap, and then spray the trees.
• Chamomile infusion (200 g per 1 liter of water). Leave for 10 - 12 hours, and then drain the resulting solution. Pour the remaining herbal mass into 5 liters of water and leave for another 13 hours. Combine both compositions together and spray the crown.
• Hot pepper. Prepare an infusion (1 kg of fruit per 10 liters of water). Leave for 48 hours. The resulting mass is boiled for 1 hour, cooled and poured into containers with tight lids. Use as needed throughout the season. Before irrigation, add laundry soap (80 g per 1 bucket of water).
• Tansy. Herbal powder (0.7 kg per 10 liters of boiling water) is infused for 4 days, then boiled for 15 minutes, filtered and added to 1 bucket of water. Fruit plantings are treated several times a season.

Treatment in summer and autumn

Fruit trees must be treated throughout the growing season. Therefore, when summer comes, you need to continue pest control. Should not be used during this period chemical substances. It is better to use fishing belts, liquid sweet baits, where insects will fly. You also need to collect carrion.

With the arrival of autumn gardening work continue. After leaf fall, fallen leaves are removed, damaged branches are cut, hunting belts are removed, trunk circles are dug up, trunks and skeletal branches are whitened. They also get rid of dead bark, burn plant debris and pest nests. Trees are treated with the same preparations as in the spring.

You can count on a high harvest only if you care for the garden properly. Therefore, owners who are aware of this treat the garden annually. The success of this event depends on the quality of its implementation in spring period. After all, it is at this moment that it is decided whether the plantings will be well protected from pests and diseases.

When spring warmth begins to be felt in the air, many people have a desire to be closer to nature. At these moments, the soul wants to enjoy the variety of colors that various plantings in our summer cottages give us. And to bring this moment closer, gardeners are trying to more thoroughly prepare the garden before fruiting begins.

To determine the scope of upcoming work, first of all need to see the garden. Based on its results, it will be clear what you will have to do. After a long and cold winter, there are sure to be many damaged branches that must be removed. However, the spring treatment of the garden is not limited to this, because it also includes a lot of other important measures that are designed to protect the plants from pests and diseases.

Why and when is the best time to treat the garden?

To reduce the harm that diseases and pests can cause, many gardeners use chemical and organic methods to combat them. However, the final result largely depends on the experience of the gardener. This in turn determines what the harvest will be like at the end of the season. The effectiveness of all planned work can only be improved if it is carried out at the right time. Therefore, as soon as the last cold weather has passed and fruit ovaries begin to form on the trees, you need to immediately begin work.

Stages of garden processing in spring

If you trust the experience of experienced summer residents, then it is better to treat the garden before 10 o'clock or after sunset- after about 6 hours. Similar choice is not accidental, since it is during these hours that the sun’s activity is minimal, and therefore the risk of leaves being burned is extremely low. As part of spring garden processing, the following main stages can be distinguished:

• in early spring;
• before buds open;
• before and after flowering;
• during the formation of ovaries.

Spraying the garden in early spring

One of the traditional garden processing activities is whitewashing tree trunks. However, it is better to carry it out before the cold weather. Therefore, it is recommended to plan it in the fall. As a result of this operation you can protect trees from damage by rodents, therefore, the remaining intact bark will not crack as a result of exposure to frosty winds. In the spring you will only need to examine it to understand whether it survived the winter well, and correct it if the need arises.

The first treatment of the garden must be carried out in early March, before the buds begin to bloom. After waiting for the snow to melt, you can prepare the plantings for processing. To do this, tidy up the area summer cottage, remove insulation from protected trunks, as well as branches that have not survived the winter. After this, spring treatment is carried out to protect trees and shrubs from insects.

On initial stage It is necessary to inspect the tree trunks and remove any fungi found from the surface. After that on the bark apply mortar . The process of preparing it will look like this:

• you need to take 2 kg of lime and mix it with 10 liters of water;
• then into this mixture you need to add 1 kg of clay and 330-350 g of copper sulfate;
• All components must be thoroughly mixed until smooth;
• Now the solution is ready, it can be applied to the trunks and bases of branches.

As a result of such treatment, eggs and larvae of insects, which can often be found on the bark and cracks of the trunk, will be removed.

However, today gardeners have access to more modern and effective drugs. Although they are a little more expensive, they can be used to process trees much faster and with less labor, preventing insects from causing much harm to the plantings. Many of them contain a fungicide, which increase the plant's resistance to many diseases. They have similar properties the following means:

• acrylic whitewash;
• acrylic paints;
• lime pastes containing copper sulfate.

Not only copper sulfate, but also diesel fuel can help protect trees and shrubs from pests. After processing the plantings, a protective oily film will appear on them, which can protect against annoying insects trees and shrubs. If insects try to lay larvae and eggs on trunks and branches, they will die under a ball of diesel fuel. In this case, all open flower stalks and blooming leaves will remain intact and unharmed.

Spring cultivation of the garden before buds open

Then comes the next stage - fruit tree processing before the kidneys awaken. The main goal of these measures is to prevent insects that hatch from larvae, as well as pathogens of various diseases, from infecting trees and shrubs. Greatest harm The garden can be affected by diseases such as scab, black cancer, coccomycosis, etc.

However, regardless of whether you intend to use copper sulfate or other modern drug, before using it, it is recommended to read the instructions for use. The fact is that in stores there are preparations that are initially designed to treat only certain types of fruit trees. To ensure that such treatment meets your expectations, you can carry it out with a solution of insecticides and contact fungicides. The effectiveness of this measure will increase many times over, as it will help not only rid the plantings of pests and diseases, but also prevent their occurrence in the future.

If you want to minimize the harm that your plantings will receive as a result of chemical treatment, you can use a safer mixture prepared based on herbs, tobacco and orange peel. The process of its preparation is as follows:

• Take a 3 liter jar and fill it with 200 g of crushed tobacco;
• then you need to put a handful of garlic peels and the same amount of onions, pine needles and orange peels;
• after that, water heated to 70 degrees is poured into this mixture;
• the jar needs to be hermetically sealed and a warm place must be found for it, where it should stand for a week;
• when the time comes, the finished tincture should be diluted with warm water in an amount of 10 liters;
• then the composition must be thoroughly mixed and 100 g of crushed tar soap added to it in small parts;
• Now the product is ready and can be used to treat the garden. If necessary, it can be repeated after 10-12 days. However, this can only be done before flowering.

Garden treatment in spring before and during the flowering process

You can treat shrub trees until the buds begin to bloom. This will help not only prevent the codling moth caterpillars from harming them, but also reduce risk of scab and spotting. To prepare the solution, you can use Carbofox. To do this, take 70 g of the drug and dilute it in 10 liters of water. room temperature. However, if trees and shrubs have already begun to bloom, then such processing cannot be done.

Fruit trees can be re-treated after the flowering period has ended. It is necessary to reduce the likelihood of infection of trees and shrubs in the next season, as well as to increase the resistance of plantings to diseases.

Typically, the inflorescences bloom at the moment when mites appear, having successfully survived the winter. It can help you deal with them colloidal sulfur: to prepare the solution you need to take 80 grams of 70% of the drug and dilute it in 10 liters of soapy water. It is very important that this treatment is carried out in a timely manner, otherwise all your crops will suffer as a result of the mite infestation.

Spring treatment of the garden from pests and diseases during the appearance of ovaries

When conducting final stage In spring processing, the main task that must be solved is to ensure the protection of the fruits of the new harvest from putrefactive diseases and pests that have managed to survive. However, it is first recommended to inspect the plantings to determine whether there are visible enemies on the trees and shrubs. After all, if you use chemicals, having strong effect, then in addition to killing insects, significant harm can also be caused to the ovaries.

As a preparation for spraying fruit trees, you can choose copper oxychloride, Bordeaux mixture, urea. It is also allowed to use combination drugs that have a universal scope of application. However, processing must be carried out when optimal humidity air. Otherwise, there is a possibility that the leaves will suffer serious burns after spraying.

Spring cultivation of the garden does not imply strict rules for its implementation. However there is important nuances, taking into account which you can most effectively perform this work.

Spraying order. If you want to completely destroy pests and diseases, then you should treat every part of the trees and bushes with a working solution, for example, copper sulfate. Usually this work begins with the crown, then moves to the branches, and finally the trunk and soil in the root zone are processed.

Time and conditions of work. It is best to do spring gardening early in the morning. It is advisable to choose a dry, windless day for this work, during which no precipitation is expected. In this case, after treatment, the solution can be immediately absorbed and will act quickly. As a result, you will be sure that the leaves and inflorescences will not be damaged.

Calculation of the amount of solution. The results of spring garden cultivation may vary. If it is important for you not only to destroy pests and diseases, but also not to harm trees and shrubs, then you need to correctly determine the application rate of the drug. You can find out if you look at the instructions for a specific product. Knowing this, it will be easy for you to understand exactly how much of certain chemicals you will need.

• it takes approximately 1.5 liters of solution to treat one young tree;
• for an adult – 5.5 liters.

Spraying bushes may require different amounts of solution - from 0.6 to 1.5 liters. You can more accurately say how much liquid is required by knowing the dimensions of the crown.

Conclusion

Experienced gardeners know how to get good harvest. To do this, they regularly cultivate the garden. Moreover, they begin to engage in this business in the spring. The importance of this event is difficult to overestimate, because it directly determines how well the trees and shrubs will be protected from pests and diseases. Knowing which preparations are best to use and when, even a novice summer resident can count on the fact that at the end of the season the garden will give him a lot of tasty and healthy fruits.

Spraying the garden in spring is one of the main agricultural activities. But, unfortunately, not everyone knows about this. Many owners of personal plots approach this process in the spring formally, without really thinking about the main essence of the agronomic procedure. In this case, spraying the garden in spring can turn into a merciless and pointless task. Everyone probably understands the great desire to protect your garden from various diseases and pests. In conditions middle zone Russia's fruit and berry harvest is constantly threatened by at least 60-70 species different insects– pests, and about 20 species infectious diseases. People have in their hands effective methods fight them. But in this case, food and the environment can become dangerous for the person himself. Finding balance is the main task of carrying out spring work. In this article, we decided to tell you about how to spray your garden in early spring against diseases and pests. All the remedies that we present here will be effective and, moreover, safe for the person himself.

Some extremes at the time of spraying

Refusal of processing.

It should be recognized that the complete absence of large preventive irrigation is far from the worst option. Naturally, this will be more reasonable than excessiveness.

• You can relax a little if your garden plot is still young and has not yet been able to accumulate many different harmful substances and organisms.
• In your garden you can plant resistant and unpretentious varieties. There are apple trees without scab, roses without problem, gooseberries without spheroteca, black currants without red-headed aphids and mites, strawberries without gray rot.
• It is necessary to constantly carry out various agricultural works (pruning, thinning, deoxidation, digging, mulching, fertilizing the soil, installing traps, etc.)
• It is very useful to spray trees with the onset of spring and until the beginning of autumn with various simulators and biological preparations: Zircon, Gumi, Epin, biopesticides Strobi and Fitoferon, microbiological preparations such as Fitosparin.
• Many proponents of organic farming may simply give up if their garden continually loses large amounts of crops. In this case, there is only one way out: finding a compromise, namely, causing minimal harm while obtaining maximum benefit. It is necessary to reduce the number of diseases and pests, without forgetting about the environment.

All at once

How to spray the garden in the spring before everything blooms? This question can be heard in every garden store in the spring. Even the simplest question from some reasonable salesperson: Do you need a pest or disease control? May cause buyer confusion. Of course, some seller may sell the treasured item, to the great delight of the buyer. As we see: there will be two results. And they are both unfortunately disappointing:

• There is practically no effect from the treatment.
• The garden will accumulate poisons.

Despite any advertising that is very convincing at first glance and our busyness, it is necessary to stop for a couple of minutes and try to face the truth: there is no one super-ideal preparation and timing for spraying the garden in the spring against pests and diseases.

Spring is an elastic concept

In many gardening recommendations it is necessary to divide the seasons into natural and calendar. For carrying out agricultural work, two main natural indicators are important (in different regions of our country the dates will differ by a month or more) - the stage of development and the air temperature in the garden in the spring:

• Until the buds swell.
• Budding.
• Bloom.
• The green cone is the beginning of the appearance of leaves.
• Young ovaries.

Such a concept as - spring spraying, is very conditional, since there is no clear boundary between the summer and spring periods. But still, we can define two important stages: carrying out treatment of plants before the buds swell on them and the period after this event (when buds appear and leaves protrude).

When, how and with what should you spray your garden against diseases and pests?

The most early is the phase of dormant buds. The very first spraying should be carried out in early spring at low temperatures in the garden (+3, +6 degrees, or slightly higher). But this must be done before the buds swell, while the plants are still dormant. Exists almost everywhere different speed snow melting and the height of its cover. Yes, besides, cultures wake up after winter at different times. Based on this, sometimes it is not possible to meet one specific day. Quite early, honeysuckle and black currant begin to wake up from their winter sleep. But as for strawberries, covered grapes and roses, these crops can remain under snow cover for a long time.

Exceptions for plants.

Which ones exactly? garden plants You may not need to spray during this period of time.

• Honeysuckle very rarely gets sick and practically does not suffer from pests.
• The same goes for blackberries.
• If modern varieties of black currant are planted on your garden plot, which are not susceptible to bud mites and powdery mildew, then there is no point in spraying in early spring.
• There is no need to spray fungicides on those gooseberry varieties that tolerate spheroteca.
• On many personal plots Sea buckthorn is also not susceptible to disease.
• If serious problems do not appear on your pears in the garden every year, then they also do not need to be treated.
• If your garden has previously had good and prosperous years, then you will not need protection from diseases for those varieties of apple trees that have tolerance to moniliosis and immunity to scab.

Many perennial flowers and ornamental shrubs an individual approach is required.

One of the most important points is to identify a number of problem-free plants that do not require additional care: for a person - saving his personal time, money and effort. And the most important thing is the benefits environment. Chemical treatment garden should be carried out at real risk.

Spray coverage area

In this article you can also learn about when you need to spray your garden against pests in the spring. Until the buds swell, fruit trees and berry plants (gooseberries, plums, strawberries, raspberries, cherries, cherry plums, sweet cherries, apricots, peach and grapes), flower beds and rose gardens need to be treated. During this period of time, this impact will mainly be aimed at protecting against various diseases, and partly on pests, which are still sleeping at this time.

What should be treated: optimal spraying methods

Hot water.

Having brought a bucket of water to a boil, you must immediately pour it into a watering can and water blackberry and currant bushes of any color. This procedure can partially destroy some types of wintering diseases and pests. Water at a temperature of +65 degrees must be poured from a watering can onto the strawberry bushes.

"Blue spray": Bordeaux mixture.

This event is very old. It was invented almost two centuries ago. But to this day it is the most effective and useful. It is directed against almost all bacterial and fungal infections on the soil surface and on all crops. This procedure is carried out using strong Bordeaux mixture (at a concentration of approximately 3% (but not one percent, as for green foliage). In the instructions for this drug, you can find discrepancies in the ratio of copper sulfate and lime in the solution. This is due to the fact that In the original recipe, quicklime was used. Nowadays, slaked lime (or calcium hydroxide) is used. And the latter requires much more. After you have purchased the Bordeaux mixture, it is better to strictly follow the included instructions. In the event that this instruction says about preparing a one percent solution. As for a three percent solution, in this case it is necessary to reduce the amount of water by three times. If you purchase the necessary ingredients yourself, for 3 liters of water you should take 100 grams of quicklime and copper sulfate. An alternative to this drug is Burgundy liquid The solution must be prepared in the same way as Bordeaux mixture, only in place of the lime it is necessary to use soda (baking or calcined). In rare cases, you should add a spoonful of sugar or soap. In addition, there is an option where soda is replaced ammonia or mustard powder. Next, you need to let the resulting mixture boil a little. After this, treatment should be carried out immediately.

Drug 30+.

The official manufacturer is NPF Sober. This drug is petroleum jelly, which was previously used to combat scale insects in early spring in the Krasnodar region. As a result, it turned out that this product does not pose any danger to humans, but interferes with the breathing of insects that hibernate on the branches of trees and shrubs. After spraying in the spring, scale insects and other insects and their larvae overwintering in the crowns die. One liter of this drug must be diluted in 2 buckets of water and then sprinkled with the resulting solution in the garden, spending approximately one liter per bush and up to 5 liters per a big tree. This product is very dangerous for bees.

More options for spring spraying

Don’t know at what temperature you can spray your garden in the spring? Then it’s worth mentioning that they do this in early autumn. In spring, a strong urea solution is also used (600 g per bucket). Sometimes copper sulfate (50g) is added. Iron sulfate is also used for spraying. It is often used to control moss and lichen, and also against diseases on roses, grapes, and fruit trees. One kg of iron sulfate must be dissolved in 20 liters of water.

The two remedies described above are very scalding. And many gardeners advise using them not in early spring, but late autumn. In addition, treatment with these drugs in the spring can delay bud break in the garden for a week or two.

On a note! Many agronomists do not recommend using folk remedies such as diesel fuel, salt or kerosene. Special attention must be given to Nitrofen. This drug has long been recognized as a dangerous carcinogen. It was banned for use in most countries of the world, including our country.

Spraying at the stage of bud bursting and bud protrusion

In order to find out what to spray the garden in the spring before the buds open, you need to carefully read this article. Here you can see a lot of interesting things for yourself. Now it’s worth informing about the spraying rules that apply at the stage of bud break and bud formation. During this period of time, many people gradually wake up from hibernation. pests both small and large. If spring is rainy and cool, this will contribute to the development of various diseases. And if the weather is sunny and warm, then insects begin to appear.

Spraying against diseases (fungicides)

Preparations with copper.

For complete processing, it is not too late to use Bordeaux mixture - only at a concentration of 1%. Grapes, flowers, apple and pear trees, plums, cherries must be treated with HOM or Abiga-Peak in early spring.

Biological products.

In the spring, many gardeners carry out the first two treatments, using preparations such as Alirin (fruit trees, strawberries), phytosporin (they treat everything), Fitolavin (apple trees). This group also includes such a remedy as Strobi. The drug is a fungicide of natural origin. It is used on pear and apple trees at the beginning of their growing season.

The drug Prognosis (and other drugs with propiconazole).

Products of identical composition: Agrolekar, Forecast, Propi Plus, Chistoflor. These drugs are modern fungicides that are not very toxic. They process berries in the budding phase: raspberries, strawberries (from gray rot), gooseberries, currants.

Pureflower (and other products with difenoconazole).

Similar contents are represented by such drugs as Rayek, Chistotsvet, Khranitel, Skor, Diskor, Plantenol. They are used on stone fruits and pome crops, as well as on roses and other flowers.

Topaz (penconazole).

In spring, Topaz prevents powdery mildew on flowers, gooseberries and currants.

Thiovit Jet.

This drug protects currants, roses and apple trees from powdery mildew.

Horus.

It is used for processing grapes and all stone and pome crops. Not very dangerous to birds, bees and people.

Spraying against pests (insecticides)

In this phase, biological insecticides are practically useless: since during this period of time there are no caterpillars, no aphids, or spider mites. It makes sense to use poison only if a large number of pests were observed in the past year (raspberry beetle, weevil, sea buckthorn fly, leaf rollers, codling moths, etc.). It is impossible to spray during flowering.

Pyrethroid poisons.

These are Iskra Double Effect, Inta-Vir, Decis, Kinmiks.

Organophosphate poison (malathion).

These are Iskra M, Fufanon, Karbofos.

Double poisons.

This is Inta-CM, Alatar,

It is recommended to use copper preparations separately. And other fungicides can be mixed with pesticides.

Finally

Today, thanks to this article, you were able to learn about how to spray trees in the garden in the spring. We hope that these measures will be able to protect your garden from various kinds pests and diseases. As a result of these activities, your garden will be able to bring you a rich harvest of delicious fruits.

In order not to lose the harvest next year, you should take care of this in the fall. Experienced gardener knows well what is the key to a healthy and rich harvest next season. Have you ever wondered where in autumn garden are taken pests? They do not fly from Africa in the spring, but spend the winter in fallen leaves, in bark cracks or in the ground. Many climb deep; mole crickets, for example, burrow as much as two meters. But many parasites can be deprived cozy house for the winter. So start treatment against harmful insects need to in autumn.

It is best to arm yourself with a magnifying glass, because the clutch of eggs under the loose old bark is difficult to see, even with keen eyesight. A blunt scraper for scraping off the bark will also come in handy.

You need to inspect, starting with those trees where uninvited guests were noticed. They are worth studying almost with a magnifying glass. While searching pests in the garden in autumn, do not ignore fallen leaves.

Important! The one where egg clutches are found should not be placed in the compost heap, much less used as mulch. They must be set on fire, preferably even away from the site... ✍

Treating the garden against pests in the fall

Carefully remove discovered clutches of eggs with the back of a knife if they are on branches with young bark, but on old branches it is better to use a scraper.

If you had to cut off the top layer of bark, then cover the damaged area with garden varnish. It is advisable to spread polyethylene or thick fabric under the tree in advance.

Where do aphids, slowworms and gypsy moths hide?

Examine the bases of the kidneys with a magnifying glass. Small black or red dots around them are the eggs of aphids and honeydews.

• In aphids they are black, measuring 2.5 mm.
• And the copperheads are red and small, only 1 mm.

Where there are a lot of them, it is better to cut out the entire branches, and where only individual points are visible, you can use the blunt side of the knife.

Attention! There may be yellow-brown fluffy lumps at the base of the trunk. You shouldn’t be touched by their imaginary cuteness. This is a clutch of gypsy moth eggs. Scrape and into the fire!

How to detect scale insects and hawthorn

In order not to have unnecessary troubles in the spring, and not to grab your head in the summer, try to treatment garden plot from pests was carried out thoroughly and fully in the fall. Carefully inspect the wings of insects stuck to the trunk. Under them you can often find bright red or milky white eggs of scale insects. The wings are left by the females of these harmful creatures to camouflage the clutch.

If you see hanging leaves on the branches after leaf fall, entangled in a thin, barely noticeable cobweb, don’t be fooled. This is not a harmless spider at all, but a malicious hawthorn. There can be only one way for her - into the fire.

Cut out dried shoots in the fall. It is unlikely that they withered just like that, but there is still no benefit from them. It is in them that many of those who have already eaten their fill of your current harvest and are making plans for the future spend the winter.

In the cracks of the bark near the buds you can see white eggs of the winter moth. They must be carefully removed with a knife.

Where the lacewing, apple mite and viburnum leaf beetle can hide

They make a dense nest of leaves shrouded in cobwebs. harmful insects, like goldentail caterpillars. They should be collected with gloves, as they can cause severe skin irritation.

Loose growths on the stems of the viburnum indicate that the female viburnum leaf beetle laid eggs there. She gnaws the bark, and after laying eggs, covers them with chewed leaves.

Pests in the garden sometimes they find the most incredible ways to get a cozy and carefree winter. On the outer branches of young apple trees you can see rings with small holes, shaped like reeds. This is a ringed silkworm settling in for the winter.

And here are the eggs of the red apple mite It's hard to see without a magnifying glass. They look like eggs, and are slightly larger than the thickness of a hair. You can find them in cracks on the underside of young shoots... ✍

Pests of fruit bushes and trees: stem gall midge, plum and apple moth

• Examine the stems of raspberries, gooseberries and other shrubs. If they have thickened growths on them, then feel free to throw them into the fire. The stem gall midge was planning to spend the winter there, like many other harmful creatures.
• Examine the hunting belts. The rag ones need to be boiled and dried, and the paper ones should be thrown into the fire.

With these simple measures you will protect your area from apple and plum moths and many others. pests, although it is better to do this at the same time as your neighbors. With lazy neighbors, the number of voracious creatures will only decrease, which is not bad.

There is no place for leaves under trees

When it starts, some novice lovers of “organic farming” leave fallen leaves in tree trunk circles, arguing that in nature the leaves remain for the winter. Next summer, such a gardener will understand that he acted recklessly. It is in the leaves that hides:

1. currant anthracnose
2. apple and pear scab;
3. gooseberry anthracnose and other fungal diseases.

Weevils, apple flower beetles and spider mites. Therefore, there is no place for foliage in the garden in winter, especially in the tree trunks.

On a note! The collected foliage should be burned, but if you have it done according to all the rules compost heap warming up to 60 degrees inside, you can put it there and pour it with slurry for quick heating... ✍

Dig Deeper, But Dig Smarter

Under the trees one has to limit oneself to the most top layer soil, because at a depth of more than 10 centimeters there is a risk of damaging the roots, but this is quite enough to freeze the most malicious parasites.

Clue! And where there are no trees, for example, in potato beds, dig as deep as possible, because the Colorado potato beetle hibernates at a depth of 20-25 cm, so using a shovel to destroy its idyll is quite possible... ✍

Mulch

From many harmful insects in the garden Overwintering in the soil can be eliminated by covering the soil with mulch. Only winter mulch should not be loose, but dense. Before winter, you can scatter unrotted manure in a layer of 5-10 centimeters in the tree trunk circles. In the spring, pests that have overwintered in the ground will not be able to get out into the fresh air and will die. However, sawdust or pine needles will also be useful. Over the winter it will be compressed and become a difficult obstacle for hungry insects.

Advice! There are more radical way. Roofing material is spread under the trees so that it touches the trunk and covers the entire area under the roots. Not a single evil creature can get out from under such a blanket. Such a blanket is removed immediately after flowering, when the danger of infection becomes much less... ✍

Should you be afraid of chemistry?

The question is complex, but chemistry and chemistry are different. The rejection of any chemicals was due to their uncontrolled and thoughtless use half a century ago, when they were about to celebrate the victory of science over nature. Nature turned out to be stronger, but people's health suffered.

How to treat trees and shrubs against pests in the fall

We do not encourage the use of harmful pesticides, but among the poisons that kill harmful insects there are also those that act as fertilizer for plants.

Spraying with urea

Take the well-known urea. It is a completely natural product, because it is found in the substance from which its name comes. For many harmful insects and fungal pathogens, this is a terrible poison. If you spray tree branches with a strong solution, they will not tolerate it. 200-300 g per bucket of water is quite enough, but if the trees suffered from scab, then the dose should be increased to 500 or even 700 g.

On a note! It is necessary to spray with urea no later than a month before persistent frosts. But if you water the ground under the trees with urea, you should water it generously; there will definitely be no harm. Excess nitrogen will leave with meltwater in the spring.

inkstone

Plants also need iron, so there will be no harm from iron sulfate. It is taken 200-300 g per bucket in a “clean” garden and 500 g in a diseased one. Big trouble will not happen from copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. After all, plants and humans also need copper in small doses, and plants simply cannot absorb excess.

In the spring, you will have to treat with a weaker solution, since after the buds open, a strong solution of vitriol can burn the green leaves. And they absorb iron and copper much more actively than bare branches.

Be careful! Before spraying with vitriol, be sure to wear a respirator, gloves and safety glasses.

Folk remedies

Many people also use soap-oil emulsions. They block the larvae's access to air. For preparation in liter warm water Mix a tablespoon of washing powder and half a spoon of machine or transformer oil. Connoisseurs of all things natural can take burdock oil, which can be bought at the pharmacy.

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