Do you need waterproofing under the screed in an apartment? Waterproofing a floor under a screed: types, technology and procedure for installing rolled waterproofing in an apartment. Waterproofing for floor screed in an apartment using plaster

In the renovation process, finishing the floor is one of the key stages. Compliance the right technology will allow the coating to serve for a long time and not lose its decorative qualities. Among the conditions for installing a high-quality floor covering is the installation of waterproofing under the screed. Its correct implementation is the most important task, which will save the owner from many problems in the future.

Features and device

Waterproofing is a concept that appears whenever any mention of renovation work in new buildings or major repairs is made. This is the process of laying insulating materials in various ways on the base before installing the floor screed. Many people wonder how necessary this is, and in what cases this step can be skipped.

Main functions of waterproofing:

• Protection of the screed layer from moisture. This is especially important if the apartment is located on the first floor above the basement. Concrete coverings because of high humidity may lose their basic functions, reduce their properties, become cracked and crumble.
• The insulating layer prevents moisture from entering the adjacent room from the room being furnished. There is a high risk of flooding in the bathroom or toilet. If the water is in large quantities gets on the floor, then without waterproofing you will in any case flood the neighbors on the floor below. The cement base is porous and may have defects. Water will seep through them, as well as through the joints between the slabs and loosely sealed holes for the pipeline.

In other rooms (bedrooms, halls, offices) the risk of flooding is significantly reduced. However, they contain heating pipes, the installation of which creates cracks. It is also better to treat them with waterproofing compounds.

• Maintaining a healthy and safe indoor environment. Blocking the entry of moisture from the outside prevents the development of fungus and mold in the space under the screed, which develop well in a warm, wet environment. This is especially true for dry screeds. Between the expanded clay granules there is more space for the development of harmful microorganisms.
• The additional coating pre-levels the surface and makes it easier to lay the screed. It lays down in a more uniform and even layer.
• An additional barrier to external influences in rooms located directly above the ground. This primarily applies to private houses. Evaporation from the soil will lead to damage to the integrity of the floor covering and the need to replace it.

Types and options

There are many ways to waterproof. Choosing the most suitable one depends on both your budget and availability. necessary materials on sale, and on what room you are going to renovate.

Typically, the following types of insulating coatings are distinguished:

• Coating (plaster) waterproofing. It is produced using dry powder mixtures based on cement. They are sold in bags, diluted with water according to the instructions on the package. This coating is applied in a similar way to plaster. The mixture gives the layer greater strength, stability and long term services.
• Painting room. Liquid mixtures, predominantly polymer mastics, sold in special plastic containers, are applied with a brush or a special roller.

• Pasted insulation. It is produced using roll materials two ways. In the first case, the coating layers are glued using various compositions onto the base, not forgetting to glue the joints of the material and the places of contact with the walls. In the second case, the layer is glued in a heated state, the seams are also treated to avoid leaks.

Due to its non-environmental friendliness, this technique is undesirable for use in an apartment. It is better to use it in utility rooms.

• Composite. This type of waterproofing is installed from different parts of the material with the seams treated. A relatively new technique provides guaranteed protection against leaks.

• Impregnation insulation. Perform it with different liquid solutions with the addition of polymers. The application is effective only when working with porous bases that easily absorb moisture: low-quality concrete coating and if you want to install a screed on top of a wooden floor.
• Penetrating waterproofing. Basically, this type is used to repair the waterproofing layer. A mixture of astringent or hydrophobic components is introduced into defective areas, cracks and seams.

Coating waterproofing is the most common, affordable and quite reliable. Along with the painting and roll method, it can be used both in an apartment and in a private house. Plaster insulation is recommended to be applied under a dry screed.

You can apply mastics or roll coatings under either semi-dry or liquid screed. It is necessary to check that all seams on the insulating layer, if any, are securely processed and taped.

If you are renovating a new building, you should opt for using bitumen mastics. They are easy to use and, due to their elastic structure, will not crack when the building shrinks.

If the ceilings in your bathroom do not allow the height of using a thick layer of insulating materials, you can apply an impregnating composition. It will protect even in case of abundant water flow.

Materials

If more recently, almost all types waterproofing works were produced using roofing felt or bitumen, now you can choose more environmentally friendly, affordable and effective products.

Below are several groups of materials for waterproofing:

• Liquid materials. The most famous of this group are mastics. Their main varieties: bitumen, bitumen-polymer and polymer. The first type is the most common and cheapest. You just need to strictly follow the work technology, since when heated they release harmful substances. In order to improve the properties of bitumen, various components are added to it, such as latex or acrylic. The surface is painted in a dense layer using modified mixtures.

• Primer– material based on bitumen and various polymers. But its main function is to prepare the base for applying waterproofing. Unlike mastics, it is perfectly absorbed into the surface, strengthening it and reducing moisture absorption. After applying it, apply mastic.
• Liquid rubber– polymer composition for waterproofing. The material got its name due to its resemblance to a dense and viscous material, although it is made on the basis of bitumen. It is very convenient to cover the bases with it irregular shapes. It easily fills surfaces evenly and hardens quickly.
• Impregnated insulation– liquids with the addition of various polymers (polyurethane, solvent and others), used as a kind of primer for various porous substrates: mineral or made of wood. They are popular for insulating flooring in parking lots, garages, warehouses and other industrial premises.

• Film waterproofing. Films have found quite wide application before laying screeds. The layer turns out to be quite thin, but the installation method requires care and time. They are made from polyolefin, PVC or polyethylene. In this case, the material must have sufficient thickness and density to perform its functions well.
• Membrane materials. One of the latest developments in the construction industry is made of PVC, polyethylene or with the addition of rubber. Products are often reinforced for strength. Fire retardants are added to the composition to increase fire resistance. In general, membrane insulation is characterized by high resistance to aggressive environments and low temperatures. TechnoNIKOL and Tayek Soft membranes are very popular on the market.

• Roll materials. This is one of the first types of waterproofing. The coverings are produced in the form of rolls and are laid overlapping on the floor with a plant on the wall. They are made from cardboard, non-woven synthetic fibers and fiberglass. Often you can find various resins and bitumen in the composition. Common and popular for different cases use of roofing felt, self-adhesive insulation "TechnoNIKOL", "Gidrostekloizol" and glassine. It is still profitable and easy to isolate foundations with roofing material. Cheap and easy to install, the material does not have much durability due to the cardboard content in its composition. Over time, cracks may appear in it.

• A relatively recent type of roll materials – self-adhesive. Glue on inner side has already been applied, and on the outside it is processed on one edge at a distance of approximately 5 cm. This greatly simplifies the installation of such a layer. Also, rolled products can have a special coating, due to which they can be fastened together using the fusing method.

• Dry mixes- widely used and commonly used products. It contains cement, sand, various additives to improve the properties of the coating, better adhesion, deep penetration, quick drying, etc. Rigid waterproofing mixtures are diluted with water and applied like plaster in a dense layer on the entire insulated base. Can be used for waterproofing in bathrooms and toilets, coating pipes in apartments, private houses and even on open areas. Withstand even the impact of water in the pool. Drying usually takes more than a day.

It's easy to choose in stores suitable composition. High-quality and well-known brands: “Ceresit”, “Master”, “Kraiser”, “Bergauf”, “Starateli”.

Sequence of work

When waterproofing a room, several conditions must be met:

• Air temperature not lower than +5 C.
• Humidity no more than 70%.
• Standard parameters must be set several days before the start of work and sudden temperature changes and drafts must be avoided.

Outside, mostly positive temperatures are required, absence of rain, strong wind, ice and snow on the surface, and direct exposure to the sun.

The first step in installing a waterproofing layer is surface preparation. It is cleaned of dirt and dust using a brush or spatula. Oily stains and it is better to remove chemical residues using specially designed solutions to improve adhesion to the insulating layer.

Next, the surface must be leveled as much as possible: measure the curvature, remove slides and growths, seal cracks and depressions with repair compounds. First, the cracks must be primed. After processing, the coating must comply with the deviations accepted in current standards.

• Before applying coating insulation with dry mixtures, the surface must be treated with a primer in 1-2 layers, then allowed to dry. After this, apply the mixture diluted according to the instructions on the package and level it with a spatula. The base is usually covered in two layers. Moreover, the second one is applied when the first one has already set, but is not completely dry.

Be sure to coat the walls to a height of at least 15 cm from the floor. After all manipulations, the surfaces are allowed to dry and required type screeds.

• In the case of painting materials, the scheme is similar to the previous one. Only instead of a primer, you can use primers or spray insulating compounds. But this is only necessary for rooms with constant humidity or a high risk of flooding. The mastics are applied with a roller in two layers, going onto the wall.

• The polymer or bitumen composition sets, fills all defects and forms a perfectly flat and smooth surface. Before pouring the concrete screed, you need to make sure that the composition is completely polymerized.
• To lay roll insulation after cleaning the base, it is necessary to apply markings. All coatings are applied with an overlap of about 5 cm wide. Next, depending on the type of waterproofing, the sections are fused to each other, glued together using heat with a construction hairdryer, fastened or self-adhesive sheets are used. After installation, you can immediately begin installing dry or wet screed.
• In some premises, testing for the quality of the insulating layer is required. To do this, the floor is filled with a couple of centimeters of water and kept in this state for about an hour. After this, the adjacent rooms are inspected for leaks. This is very important when equipping a swimming pool.

• It is believed that roll materials provide the most effective protection. But modern builders have a different opinion. Films, roofing felt and other canvases do not allow air to pass through. Therefore, over time, air layers form between the screed and the waterproofing. Accordingly, the quality of the screed may suffer or lead to the need for dismantling.
• It is better to use dry mixtures or membrane layers. After this, you can equip the finishing screed and waterproof it using other methods.
• When working with roll insulation, all seams must be carefully taped or treated to avoid leaks. The more the sheets overlap each other, the better, but not less than 3 cm.

All types of waterproofing must cover the lower part of the walls adjacent to the floor. Otherwise, there is no point in such a layer - water will seep through the seams between the wall and the base.

If you do major renovation in an apartment, especially in a bathroom or kitchen, you will need to carry out waterproofing and then screed the floor in the apartment. This procedure will also not hurt in other rooms, but only if you live on the first floor and want to protect yourself from basement dampness. We’ll tell you what the possibilities are and look in more detail at specific waterproofing technologies.

Varieties of technologies

There are more possibilities to protect premises from moisture penetration or water leakage, however, here we will describe in detail only those that are used in the apartment. Let us only mention that in private houses, where there is no basement, waterproofing is most often done using a gravel-sand cushion.

In high-rise buildings, vapor-waterproofing films are very common, which make the floor waterproof and also protect the concrete from the effects of water vapor from the floor slabs.

One of the most reliable methods is an additional cast coating. This technique requires significant financial investment, so it is not often used in apartments, although it is possible.

The newest technology is a water-repellent impregnation, which is applied to a concrete slab from any side, penetrates its structure, and from the interaction of elements, needle-type crystals are formed, which interfere with the effects of moisture.

For the best effect, you can use not one, but several methods at once.

Roll waterproofing

This technique uses a film with rolls, which is spread on the floor before starting to screed. In this case, it is necessary to form an overlap on the walls with a height of at least 15 cm to make the procedure more effective. The parts of the film themselves also need to be overlapped by 10-15 cm.

Step-by-step waterproofing technology:

• Secure the damper tape around the entire perimeter of the room using dowels or an adhesive layer. It is designed to compensate for the expansion of the screed when a temperature difference occurs.
• If necessary, use mortar or sand to level the surface of the base on which the insulating layer will be laid.
• Lay the roll film overlapping and fix it with a gas burner or a building hair dryer (selected depending on the specific material - non-fusible or polymer).
• If a roofing film is used for waterproofing, it is laid in several layers, at least two. Other materials are usually applied in one layer.
• Then the floor screed is made, if necessary it is pre-reinforced.

Waterproofing by impregnation

The technology of impregnating the floor in an apartment takes much more time than laying film under the screed. First you need to properly prepare concrete base. First, it is cleared of debris, and then treated with a primer, which is better to choose from the same manufacturer as the main impregnation. You must wait at least two hours for the primer to dry.

A primer is a special primer, thanks to which concrete adheres better to the impregnating mastic (most often bitumen-rubber or bitumen mastic is used for these purposes).

Before waterproofing, it is necessary to coat every centimeter of the floor with a primer in one layer. Special attention You need to pay attention to the space around plumbing and pipes, as well as joints with walls. After the primer has dried, you can begin applying the mastic itself.

To impregnate the floor in an apartment, use a roller or a wide brush, with which the mastic is distributed over the surface in several layers. At the joints you need to take a thinner brush and coat everything very carefully.

Then you need to wait at least two days before screeding.

It is important to remember that after waterproofing, only plastic guides can be used, otherwise the protective layer may be damaged and desired effect will not be achieved.

Coating waterproofing in the apartment can also be used on top of the main screed before laying the floor covering. In this case, you also need to wait a few days before starting the final work.

Cast insulation

As mentioned above, cast insulating coating is not widely used in apartments, but it can still be used, moreover, it is one of the most effective and unpopular only because of its high cost.

Cast waterproofing fills all the gaps that remain between the walls and the floor. Various materials with water-repellent properties can be used for it.

Before you start pouring, you need to build formwork around the entire perimeter of the room.

Liquid asphalt solution is heated to a certain temperature and poured over the surface in several layers. A metal scraper is used for leveling, after which you need to leave the room until the solution has completely dried. Sometimes the layer turns out to be uneven, and the only way to eliminate this defect is to fill the floor with an additional layer of insulating material.

Bathhouse is a room with a high level of humidity and special temperature conditions. Therefore, all its elements require careful thermal insulation and vapor barrier, and the floors need waterproofing, which in some cases must be supplemented with sealing work.

Which sealant is suitable for a bath

Taking into account the microclimate that is created in the bathhouse, the main requirements for the composition for sealing joints and cracks in floors are:

• moisture resistance;
• heat resistance, resistance to temperature changes.

Also, the sealant must have good adhesion to the materials from which the subfloor and floor covering are made.

It needs to be suitable for interior work and did not emit toxic substances, especially when heated. For sealing wooden structures A sealant with high elasticity is required that can adapt to the thermal expansion of wood. Acrylic, silicone and polyurethane compounds meet these requirements:

• acrylic sealants are excellent for wooden surfaces, but for rooms with high humidity levels you need to select waterproof (siliconized) compounds.

  Conventional acrylic sealants are quickly destroyed in such conditions;

• silicone ones have excellent water-repellent characteristics. For a bath, neutral heat-resistant compositions are suitable that can withstand a wide range of temperatures, acidic, with good adhesion to wood and ceramic tiles. You can use special sanitary sealants that are resistant to the spread of fungus;
• have excellent adhesion to wood polyurethane sealants, they eliminate water leaks and floor blowing, cracking of wood, and its damage by rot and mold.

Stages of floor installation in a bathhouse

The bathhouse is usually located on the ground floor; a concrete screed is poured under the flooring.

It and the layers of the floor “pie” above must be protected from groundwater. For these purposes, a cushion of compacted sand and crushed stone is poured under the screed; the crushed stone is impregnated with bitumen on top or covered in several layers with rolled (sheet) waterproofing - roofing felt, high-density film.

If the floors in the bathhouse are insulated, the insulation must be protected from the penetration of groundwater from below and moisture leaks from above. Even before installing the floor, you need to think about the drainage system.

Usually the floors are given a slight slope towards one of the walls or towards the center and a drain hole is made in this place, installing a ladder through which the water will flow into a pipe (gutter) and be discharged into the sewer, septic tank, filter well.

In summer baths, standing on loose and well-absorbing soil, leaky floors are made.

Water flows through the cracks between the floorboards or specially made holes and is absorbed into the soil. Under the floor there is usually a backfill made of filter material; it is advisable to additionally lay drainage.

If the soil is heavy, drainage is required. Such floors do not require sealing, are well ventilated, their main drawback is the impossibility of insulation.

Here is one of the schemes for installing a non-leakage floor in a bathhouse:

1. A rough screed is poured (it is advisable to use concrete with water-repellent additives).

   Waterproofing the floor in an apartment before screeding

   The formwork is installed to form a hole for drainage. The ladder is tried on to determine where to make holes for it in subsequent layers.

2. After the screed has dried, it is impregnated, coated or glued with waterproofing and applied to the walls.
3. A layer of insulation is laid (high-density mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam) or expanded clay is poured.
4. Rolled waterproofing is laid on top, and a drain is installed in the right place.
5. A finishing screed is performed, preferably reinforced (for the last layer of waterproofing it is necessary to use dense and durable materials so that the reinforcing mesh does not damage them).

   The beacons are placed in such a way as to form a slope to the ladder of about 1 cm per 1 m.

6. Tiles and porcelain tiles are laid on top with glue. You can install a floor heating system under the tiles in the screed.

Sometimes the bathhouse has wooden floors. This option is more suitable for rooms with a normal level of humidity, where water does not pour onto the floor - a dressing room, a rest room. Wooden floors must be ventilated, so they are laid on joists or sheathing on top of the joists.

Between the top layer of waterproofing and wood covering leave a ventilation gap.

Wooden floors in a bathhouse with insulation

IN wooden bath It is important to protect the walls from contact with water.

To do this, you can make a ventilated box around the perimeter of the floor from timber treated with antiseptics and gypsum fiber sheet.

Bars of small cross-section (for example, 20x40 mm) and about 20 cm high are screwed vertically with self-tapping screws to the walls above the floor at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other; the upper ends must first be cut down at a slight angle. GVL strips in two layers are attached parallel to the walls to the front vertical surface of the bars. The upper edge of the strips should be approximately 2 cm below the end of the beam. Wooden planks of such a width as to cover the gypsum plasterboard strips are laid on the ends cut at an angle and secured with self-tapping screws.

The result is an inclined surface - a dropper.

At what stages is sealing needed?

Sealing the floor in the bathhouse is an addition to the complex of waterproofing measures:

• if glued waterproofing is performed, the joints of rolled or sheet materials must be sealed so that the waterproofing is continuous;
• if a ventilated box is made, the places where it joins the floor, the joints of the drip elements and the places where it joins the walls are sealed.

  For ventilation, only a gap is left between the drip line and the vertical gypsum plasterboard sheathing - it does not directly contact either the walls or the floor;

• cracks, seams in finishing coating, the joints of the floor and walls are sealed to protect the insulation and concrete screed from leaks and water vapor. Due to dampness, concrete gradually deteriorates, the insulation loses its resistance to heat transfer, and fungus may appear under the coating;
• they also need to seal the outlet of communications, in particular the drainage ladder.

If roofing felt or other bitumen-based materials are used for waterproofing, the sealant is molten bitumen mastic, which is used to glue the overlaps at the joints.

Film joints are usually sealed with construction tape; some materials at the joints are welded using a special soldering iron.

The lower part of the ventilated box in the corners and at the junction with the floor is sealed with butyl rubber sealing tape.

The joints of the drip elements with each other and with the walls are sealed with a paste-like sealant; it is best to use acrylic, for example Accent 136 wood sealant, which is also suitable for sealing seams and cracks in wooden floors. Junction places ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles to the walls and communication outlets are sealed, as a rule, silicone sealant. The seams between the tiles are filled not with sealant, but with a special grout.

Finish ceramic tile flooring

Sealing cracks in floors

Wooden floors often develop gaps.

Although for floor coverings tongue and groove boards are used that fit tightly together; over time, gaps may appear between them. This happens especially quickly in a bathhouse, which is characterized by noticeable fluctuations in temperature and humidity: wood is very sensitive to such changes.

In addition, under the influence of temperature and humidity fluctuations, the boards themselves crack, and the cracks can be quite deep.

If moisture penetrates through the cracks between the floorboards and the joints with the walls, which harms the lower layers of the floor structure, then through the cracks, in addition to moisture, microorganisms penetrate into the boards, causing the destruction of the wood.

Finally, such floors look unattractive, and walking on them is unpleasant. Therefore, cracks and crevices must be sealed.

Sealing cracks in wood floors

Exist different ways sealing cracks in wooden floors:

• small cracks and cracks are covered with wood putty;
• if the gap is very large, you need to loosen the lath into wedges (dowels) of the desired shape and size, put it in the gap, coat it with glue, and fill the remaining small gaps;
• gaps can be filled epoxy resin, a rope cord is preliminarily laid in the deep ones to reduce material consumption;
• It is also used for sealing cracks and ordinary plumbing tow.

For rooms with a high level of humidity, such as a bathhouse, elastic waterproof sealants are best suited - siliconized acrylic, silicone, polyurethane.

They not only provide protection against leaks for many years, but also prevent further expansion and deepening of cracks and cracks. The sealant has excellent adhesion to wood and expands or contracts if thermal expansion or shrinkage of the wood occurs.

It retains elasticity after polymerization or vulcanization, does not crumble from cracks and does not crack when wood moves.

To ensure tightness, the surface must be prepared - cleaned of dirt, dust, degreased and sanded to make it rough.

The surface should not be wet. You should also pay attention to the temperature and humidity conditions in the room - it must correspond to those specified in the instructions for the specific composition. You can first put some kind of filler into deep gaps; a sealing heat-insulating cord made of foamed polyethylene is well suited for these purposes. The cord is produced in different sections, so it can be used to fill cracks of different sizes and shapes, reducing the consumption of sealant.

The most convenient way is to fill the cracks with sealant by squeezing it out of a special syringe gun and leveling it with a spatula.

If leak-proof insulated floors are made in the bathhouse, you need not only to take care of their waterproofing, but also to seal the joints, cracks and seams, due to which the waterproofing becomes less effective.

The joints of rolled waterproofing materials, floors and walls, places where the floor adjoins communications, seams and cracks in the floor covering are sealed. Depending on the task at hand and the materials whose joints are sealed, you can use sealants with a paste or mastic consistency, as well as sealing self-adhesive tape.

Purpose of floor waterproofing
Materials for floor waterproofing
Roll products
Hydrophobic mastics
Special moisture-resistant plasters
Penetrating waterproofing

Creating a screed is one of the most important and difficult jobs when arranging a garage space.

Waterproofing a concrete screed is of great importance - the performance characteristics and durability of the floor covering, as well as the strength of the base, depend on its quality.

Waterproofing the floor before screeding: how to make a concrete base waterproof

Over time, concrete begins to deteriorate due to exposure to moisture, and in just a couple of years the floor surface may become unusable for one simple reason - cracks have appeared.

Waterproofing should be carried out in all rooms without exception, and in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, special attention must be paid to this work.

Purpose of floor waterproofing

Why is waterproofing required:

• to prevent leaks. High-quality waterproofing will protect your neighbors from flooding and the associated material costs. This is also true for owners of private houses and garages, since internal leaks also happen.
• to improve the quality of the screed.

  If the concrete sets quickly, small cracks will appear on it. Therefore, they are trying to slow down this process: they cover it with polyethylene and moisten the surface. If waterproofing is present, the concrete hardening time increases and it becomes stronger.

Waterproofing in an apartment under a screed must be carried out in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, where there is the highest risk of flooding of neighbors (more details: “Waterproofing the floor in the bathroom - choosing the material and method of implementation”).

But experts recommend performing this work in residential premises, since there is water in the screed that can seep into the lower floor. In rooms, you can limit yourself to waterproofing at the joints of reinforced concrete slabs, walls and floors, in the area around pipes.

Owners of apartments on the lowest floor should also carry out waterproofing as in the photo, since contact of the screed with cold and damp air currents will cause harm to it. Concrete is a porous material that absorbs moisture and, as a result, deteriorates.

As for whether waterproofing is needed under the screed in a private house, this is also mandatory.

Without it, the liquid will be absorbed into the floor, and in just a couple of years, cracks will appear in the base, which will ruin the floor covering. For this reason, experts advise waterproofing in private homes twice: both before and after the screed.

Materials for floor waterproofing

There are several types of materials for waterproofing, each of them is worth familiarizing yourself with in detail.

Roll products

Most often, these materials are a mixture of bitumen and synthetic components based on fiberglass. They are characterized by reliability and durability. Previously they were made at paper based, due to which the service life was reduced.

Such materials are still available today, but despite their low price, purchasing them is not recommended.

Rolled waterproofing can be pasted or welded.

The first materials are attached to the base, and for the installation of the surfaced ones, special construction burners are needed that run on gas and heat the bitumen contained in them.

1. First, the base is prepared: it is cleaned of debris and dust, and all cracks and other defects are rubbed with a solution of sand and cement.
2. When using roofing felt, priming is performed with bitumen emulsion.

   The base slabs are additionally treated with penetrating insulating agents.

3. Damper tape is laid along the edges of the room. This is required to compensate in case of expansion of the screed, which occurs due to temperature changes.
4. Insulating sheets are laid with an overlap of 15 centimeters on the walls and 10-15 centimeters on top of each other, thereby creating a kind of recess.

   If particularly high-quality waterproofing of a rough screed is required, for example, in a bathroom, then the material is laid in several layers, shifting the joints (read: “Waterproofing screed - how to do it correctly, choosing a floor option”).

5. The overlapping sheets are fastened using a hair dryer. If weldable materials are used, they are heated with a burner before fastening.

   Pieces of roofing felt are attached bitumen mastic to the previous layer and base. The joining seams are connected in the same way.

6. When air bubbles and folds appear, these areas are pierced with a knife and smoothed out well, thereby removing the air. Afterwards, the edges of the cut are folded back, coated with mastic and attached to the base.

Such waterproofing of a concrete floor screed is inexpensive and reliable, but requires a significant amount of time and the availability of special tools.

Hydrophobic mastics

These are liquid compositions based on bitumen. They are applied with a brush, like paint. You can also use ordinary bitumen simply heated to the required consistency, but such waterproofing is less durable. Mixtures of bitumen with rubber or polymers are much better. Despite the higher price, such compounds are reliable, durable and easy to use.

Mixtures with polymer additives are not dangerous at low temperatures.

The sequence of work is as follows:

1. Preparing the base: removing dust and debris, removing various stains, including oil stains - they can interfere with the adhesion of the mastic to the surface. The cracks are eliminated with a solution of sand and cement, sharp protrusions and layers are eliminated.
2. Primer treatment improves adhesion.

   It is advisable to buy it from the same manufacturer as the mastic. The product is applied to the surface and allowed to dry for two hours. detailed instructions indicated on the product packaging.

3. Apply the mastic with a roller or brush in several layers - each subsequent after the previous one after 3-4 hours. If more than 6 hours pass, the product will begin to polymerize and the new coating will peel off. The first layer is applied in one direction, and the next in the other.

   Thanks to this, the quality of waterproofing increases. In this way, areas near pipes, joints of walls with the surface of slabs or the base are treated. The width of the mastic strip should cover the insulated areas by 15 centimeters on each side.

   In rooms where there is an increased risk of leaks (kitchen, toilet, bathroom), it is recommended to combine several insulation methods. As for whether waterproofing is performed before or after the screed, in these rooms it is better to do it both before and after. The mastic dries completely within two days.

This type of waterproofing is reliable, affordable, and environmentally friendly.

The mastic does not burn and is easy to apply without the use of special expensive tools. The main disadvantage this option is low resistance to mechanical damage.

Special moisture-resistant plasters

Waterproofing a dry screed can also be done using special plasters, which are diluted to a thick consistency (such as condensed milk) with water and applied with a spatula to a previously prepared surface.

In addition to sand and cement, such plasters contain polymers that reduce the level of moisture absorption. After drying, a coating is formed that is resistant to mechanical stress and deformation.

Execution of work:

1. Prepare the surface and apply an insulating compound prepared according to the instructions.
2. It takes about 15 minutes to dry the first layer.
3. The second layer is applied in the opposite direction to the previous one, and then also allowed to dry.
4. The third and, if necessary, the fourth layer is applied in the same way.
5. The surface must be moistened within 24 hours.

   Complete drying takes up to two weeks, depending on the mixture used. During this period, the surface does not need to be subjected to mechanical stress.

This type of floor waterproofing after screeding is inexpensive and easy to apply.

The main disadvantage is that the composition takes a long time to dry.

Penetrating waterproofing

This method of waterproofing is considered the most effective. It changes the structure of concrete: during the reaction, crystalline insoluble formations are formed in it, which seem to seal the pores of the concrete without damaging its structure, so that moisture does not penetrate into it.

In addition, the compositions used for this effect increase the resistance of floors to chemical attack. They are produced in dry or liquid form.

Execution of work:

1. First, prepare the surface - you need to not only clean it and eliminate cracks, but also moisten it abundantly, but so that water does not leak onto the lower floor.

   Waterproofing screeds on the ground cannot be done in this way.

2. The dry mixture is diluted according to the instructions.
3. Before applying the composition, the base is wetted again.
4. Apply the first layer of product. Then wait the time specified in the instructions and apply it a second time, after first moistening the surface again.
5. The waterproofing is covered with a film or regularly moistened for two weeks until drying is complete.

This is especially true in rooms where there is an increased risk of flooding - the bathroom, toilet, kitchen. In living rooms, double waterproofing does not make sense.

It is these methods described above that are the most popular.

But there are other compounds - for example, liquid rubber, bulk mixtures. The choice is influenced not only by the preferences of homeowners, but also by their financial capabilities and operating conditions of the premises. Waterproofing after the screed and before it is carried out for a high level of protection against water penetration - this is not required in all rooms.

And waterproofing before the screed is carried out in any case, even in living rooms, since when laying the screed, water can seep into the neighbors.

After completing all the waterproofing work, you can begin to make a screed.

Experts recommend combining several methods at once to improve their quality - for example, together with mixtures that react with concrete, additionally coating the cracks between the slabs, the joints of the floor with the walls, and places near the pipes with mastic.

The durability of the screed depends on how correctly the waterproofing technique was followed. Therefore, if you are not confident in your own knowledge and experience, it is better to seek help from professionals.

The screed is very capricious - when exposed to moisture, concrete begins to deteriorate, minor cracks appear in it, which grow over time. As a result, the flooring suffers from this.

There is only one way to correct the situation - start making repairs again. So waterproofing must be done in accordance with all the rules, not forgetting even the seemingly insignificant little things.

A protective screed for waterproofing requires a significant investment of time and effort, but the base for the flooring is of high quality and durable.

Waterproofing underground floor

Waterproofing under the floor is necessary so that the liquid from the solution does not flow to the neighbors from the bottom and is not absorbed from the concrete substrate.

The process consists of several successive stages.

Obtaining a substrate

First, you must prepare the base surface for the planned floor. It must be horizontal, dry and clean. In case of unevenness, the ground is leveled with rough books that flow into previously exposed lamps. Further work can be done only after the solution has dried.

The surface must be free from scarlet coatings, dirt, paint, oil stains, dirt and dust, so that nothing can interfere with the adhesion of the material to the surface.

Zinc, cracks, depression should also be leveled with cement plaster. In addition, it is necessary to process the corners of the room: the rounding of a small radius should not exceed 3-4 cm.

example

If necessary, the treated substrate should be treated, if necessary, re-treated.

Preparation is considered the first phase of building new soil. Before pouring the floor filler, the substrate is filled to fill the pores, while the consumption of material and the filling process depend on the quality of the surface itself. If it is quite porous, he first applies a deep penetrating powder, which makes it less permeable, and then a dye is used.

In some cases the coating will turn white during application and then work must be interrupted. The most common cause of this undesirable effect is high indoor humidity.

In addition to providing high-quality adhesion, the undercoat performs the function of hydraulic protection, which creates a barrier against moisture under the substrate.

Waterproofing properties for self-leveling floors

Basic principles of waterproofing work:

• Regardless of the type of waterproofing chosen, the layer must be continuous, which eliminates the risk of water penetrating under the floor structure.
• At the intersection with walls and other vertical surfaces, the waterproofing layer should be vertically upward by at least 10-15 cm.
• If the substrate is of good quality, waterproofing can be done using adhesive tape that connects the closed and top plates of the coated mortar layer.
• To ensure that the finished mixture does not leak at the intersection with the walls, a special sealing tape is attached around the perimeter of the entire room, which is attached to the wall with a construction stapler.

Foil waterproofing

Mark the filling level of the floor filler on the wall and place the plastic film on the underlay so that the edges rise above this mark.

To improve the quality of adhesion, the surface of the film is processed, otherwise the floors may crack and crack in places.

Cement lubricant waterproofing

Dry the mixture diluted with water according to the manufacturer's recommendations. After mixing well, leave the composition for 5 minutes. During this time, the cement is saturated with water and chemical additives are activated.

Waterproofing the floor before screeding - how to protect the concrete surface

When mixed with a mixture, they begin to use waterproofing with one or three layers. For different rooms, the total thickness of the insulation layer may be different:

• 3-5 mm - with constant pressure under pressure with water;
• 2-3 mm - periodic or constant contact with water without pressure;
• 1-2 mm - possibility of one-time flow.

Particular attention is paid to corners and joints between floors and walls.

Treatment must begin with them. Taking into account the increased likelihood of leakage, the joints should be reinforced with tape.

During operation, it heats up, and at the end it is additionally treated with a layer of the mixture.

Waterproofing is applied with a brush or spatula. Continue moving your hand in one direction. The next layer can only be used after 24 hours, but it is important that the direction of the material used is perpendicular to the previous one. To ensure that the solution used does not dry out too quickly, the surface to be treated should be moistened with water or covered with film for 1-2 days.

In the video below you can see how waterproofing work is performed.

The waterproofing layer must be checked for leaks.

If you find an error, this area is opened and reworked. To protect the floor from mechanical damage, it is recommended to fill it with concrete screed.

Remember that no matter what type of waterproofing you choose, fill the floor only to a flat surface, so make sure it is flat when setting up the waterproofing layer.

Leveling a wooden floor without removing panels

If the wooden floor has lost its attractiveness appearance or uneven, do not disassemble it immediately. It is better to use wood and wood alignment guidelines or use decorative coating such as linoleum.

The work can be completed without breaking the plates. Leveling wooden floor coverings occurs in several stages. Let's look at them in more detail.

Preparation phase

First, you need to carefully examine the old wood floor. Assess the feasibility of restoration work.

Find out, based on the level of construction, how large the gender gap is in the apartment. Next, measure the room at equal distances from the corners, marking movements on the walls as well as the center of the floor. Using the level of the object, distances are measured and the level of fall of the surface is determined. In the absence of broken fibers, the presence minor scratches, cracks, chips or damage to the paint layer, you can remove the hinge surface.

If the soil has a significant imbalance and the difference in different parts of the soil is more than 5 cm, then screeds can be made or a layer of logs can be placed on top of the logs.

Surface shading

If the difference between the soil level in different parts is no more than 3 mm, wooden panels can be treated with acrylic seal or putty.

Before applying the putty surface, it must be filled. If the floor has a small surface area, use construction gun with acrylic seal. For large wood surfaces, an acrylic set is required, which is sold in large quantities in buckets. It is not recommended to lay a layer of filler thicker than 3 mm. A colored spacer of the same shade is used to create a tone-matched surface finish on the base.

If linoleum is to be laid over a leveled wood floor, the floor must be polished.

Wood mastic is used to repair defects on wooden edges. If you need to solve the problem of how to level a wooden floor under a laminate, then for greater strength, a wooden underlay instead building materials based on acrylic, you can use a composition based on PVA adhesive.

For a layer not exceeding 2 mm, PVA is used for laying plaster. At a higher layer height wood slabs covered by extrusion or sawing on PVA-based wood.

Due to the increased adhesion of the compositions, it is used evenly on the floor, it is difficult and therefore the surface will require continuous sanding until it is perfectly level.

However, the base will be durable and can be used for laminate or linoleum.

Machining with coupling

Soil cycling is a simple process.

Even a beginner can pull it out of a wooden floor by hand. When machining, it is recommended to use a coupling. Before starting work, make sure that the plates are well secured so that the screws and nails do not touch each other.

Otherwise, the machine may malfunction. A layer of wood panel with a maximum thickness of 3 mm is mechanically removed. After removing the top layer of the wooden cover, all holes and slots should be sealed with whales, the tone of which matches the color of the base. Mastic is used to seal cracks. In hard-to-reach places, surface treatment is carried out manually.

Because the operation of the machine is accompanied by a lot of noise and dust formation. To protect your hearing and breathing from dust or noise, you need to use a mask, headphones and glasses. The treated plates must be cleaned of dust, covered with a sponge soaked in solvent, and then covered with varnish or paint.

Sketch Options

There are two ways to level an old wood floor using a clutch:

• Pour regular cement screed,
• use a self-leveling solution.

When choosing the first option, it should be taken into account that a screed made of cement mixture thicker than 5 cm, increases the load on the foundation and ground plan of the building by more than 70 kg/m2.

When using a self-leveling mortar to level a wooden floor, an elastic and smooth surface, which is suitable for all floor coverings, including linoleum.

Working with Self-Leveling Joints

This method can be used in a wooden house and in buildings with concrete ceilings.

First prepare wooden surface. It is necessary to check that the panels are firmly attached to the subfloor and that all screws and nails are screwed below its level. Next, clean the wood floor, remove old layers of paint, and vacuum clean.

To seal the gap, a special wood mastic is used.

Apply a layer of waterproof coating to the treated wooden surface, which ensures good adhesion of the base and self-leveling mixture. The upper limit of the mixture is indicated on the walls of the rooms using the structure level. A reinforcing mesh is placed on the floor, which connects adjacent changes of linen.

Then prepare the self-leveling compound according to the instructions and charge. To distribute the mixture more evenly, you can use a rubber screw.

Waterproofing device under the coupling

After drying, the coating is laid on the floor, for example, Linoleum.

Leveling a wooden floor with a mixture is one of the simple and high-quality ways to achieve a smooth surface in a flat or private home.

When and where is plywood used?

Covering the old wooden pallet plywood leaves will hide even significant damage, and even the difference in sexuality is more than one centimeter.

Let's take a closer look at how to level a wood floor with plywood.

• First you need to choose the right sheet material. To lightly level the substrate under linoleum or carpet, you can use plywood slabs about 1 cm thick.

  For flooring or laminate, use a film at least 2 cm thick.

• The environmental characteristics of the material are also important. They use FC or FSF plywood in flat or single-family homes. FC brand material is made without the use of phenol and is as safe as possible for human health. However, the resistance to moisture and mechanical damage is average.

  Formaldehyde resins are used in the production of PSF brand. Plywood does not have high environmental properties, but is more durable and resistant to moisture.

Leveling a wooden floor using glued plates is carried out using the first and second classes wood material. Using plywood, you can build linoleum or carpet.

Preparation of surfaces and materials for work

First, you need to inspect the wood panels, secure them tightly or replace damaged ones.

When looking for utility pipes under wood, they are checked to see if they are damaged or need to be replaced. Once the plywood has been adjusted, replacement will be difficult.

The leaf material should be stored indoors for several days. Therefore, the humidity of the material and the air in the room will be the same. This will reduce the chance of deformation after installation. If you intend to install linoleum or laminate, you must provide ventilation holes.

Sheet fastening methods

There are several ways to attach the material to the surface of a wooden floor.

Plywood is mounted directly on the panel, no logs are used.

Adjacent material sheets are spaced at a distance of 0.5 cm and are at least 1.5 cm from the walls. The mastic is then applied to the groove of the wood. plywood leaves evenly attached to the highest points of the subfloor.

If more layers of material are laid, brick technology is used.

Another way is to create a database in the form of a network of logs and boards.

Wooden logs or plywood about 4 cm wide. The logs are secured with walls of at least three centimeters. The sheet material is attached through the resulting base. Mastic is used to seal the slots.

In case of large differences in the level of the first floor, mini-dimensions are established.

To obtain flat surface land as a result of work performed accurate calculations for places where a mini-lagoon is installed, its height and size. Magazines are placed on special poles to increase the height of the carrier. Logs attached special glue or screws.

The flags can be replaced with a pile of beads made from wood or thick plywood called a shabass.

The thickness of the supports is calculated based on the difference in floor height. The shabas are spaced about 40 cm apart, forming a grid.

Plywood leaves are placed on the resulting mesh from the edges and secured. Wood mastic is used to remove the gap.

To improve the thermal insulation and soundproofing properties of the floor, a thin layer is placed over the insulation material on and between the logs. After installing the plywood, it is recommended to apply varnish.

Linoleum or other ready material covered decorative finishing floor covering.

Waterproofing works

Waterproofing work is carried out in order to protect building structures from exposure to the environment and aggressive solutions. The following types of waterproofing are used in construction: plaster, paint, cement-sand, asphalt, adhesive and sheet waterproofing coatings.

To perform work in the underground part of buildings, impregnation, injection and sometimes backfill waterproofing are used. The types, types and sizes of materials and prefabricated parts, as well as the compositions of mixtures (mastics, emulsions, pastes, solutions) allowed for use in waterproofing work are determined by the designs of buildings and structures.

For waterproofing coatings, a wide range of waterproofing and reinforcing materials are used. The most common are bitumen and tar, mastic, concrete, roll, rubber-bitumen materials, a wide range of synthetic materials in the form of solutions, emulsions, resins, varnishes, pastes, films, sheets, as well as metal sheets and foil, special types concretes and mortars, etc.

Jute and chlorine fabrics, fiberglass and fiberglass mesh, chopped fiberglass, asbestos, metal mesh, etc. are used as reinforcing materials.

In addition to protecting individual parts of buildings and structures (foundations, walls and floors of basements, floors of bathrooms, floors and walls of workshops with wet processes, etc.)

p.) waterproofing is also provided in expansion joints of insulated structures; To do this, expansion joints are filled with elastic bitumen mastic and covered in accordance with the project: metal expansion joints, profiled rubber tape, etc.

Production of waterproofing works on outdoors allowed at an outside air temperature of at least +5 °C and in the absence of precipitation.

During the period of work, the groundwater level must be lowered by at least 0.5 m below the base of the building or structure; measures are taken to reduce the flow of water to the insulated surfaces - temporary drainages are installed in the base, the masonry is compacted by injecting solutions into it, etc.

P.; if necessary, drainage wells equipped with well pots are installed on the insulated surface (after waterproofing is installed, the pots are filled with concrete mixture and hermetically sealed with lids).

Preparation of the insulated surface includes cleaning, leveling, drying and priming for painting and coating the insulation.

Before applying waterproofing coatings, anchors, hoods, pipes, etc. are installed. The surface of building structures to be insulated must be smooth and even; the insulated surfaces of brick or stone walls are leveled with continuous cement-sand grout or plaster; joints between precast concrete slabs must be filled with mortar; the protrusions of the reinforcement are cut off, the shells and recesses are sealed.

Various mechanisms are used to level surfaces. Straight and acute angles between adjacent surfaces of structures are rounded, sharp corners intersecting walls are given an oval shape. When preparing the insulated surface, it is necessary to treat the joints, seams and abutments, reinforce them with sizing reinforcement fabric, a mesh with bitumen mastic or a special sealant. The insulated surfaces under most asphalt and polymer waterproofing materials must be dried under natural conditions.

Drying is also carried out using electric heaters, electric blowers, fans and other methods in which the insulated surface is not contaminated.

It is prohibited to artificially dry freshly laid cement-sand screeds during the hardening period of the solution. When using aqueous emulsions and pastes, do not dry the surface. Before applying paint and coating insulation, the surface is primed. To ensure reliable adhesion of the primer to the base, it is advisable to either preheat the surface or apply the primer in two layers. Conventional primers for bitumen mastics consist of 1 part bitumen and 3 parts solvent; in other cases, it is recommended to use primers from the corresponding base of the waterproofing coating, but in a more liquid state.

Plaster waterproofing is a waterproof coating of insulated surfaces, applied in several layers or layers and having a thickness of 10 to 25 mm.

Plaster waterproofing can be of two types - cement-sand (shotcrete and ordinary cement plaster) and asphalt.

Cement-sand waterproofing is a layer of a solution that has hardened and firmly adhered to the insulated surface and has an increased density. Cement-sand waterproofing solutions are prepared by mixing a dosed amount of sand, Portland cement (non-shrinking or expanding) and water.

To accelerate the setting of the solution, ferric chloride additives are used; the ratio of ferric chloride to cement mass is 1:26, 1:22, 1:16. Solutions activated by ferric chloride are used for waterproofing underground tanks and other buried structures. They are applied to the surface in the form of thin-layer plaster. In the presence of hydrostatic pressure, insulation is arranged on the side of its action, and in the absence of water pressure - on the inside and outside of the structure.

Cement-sand waterproofing is applied with a mortar pump in layers of 8-10 mm and a total thickness of 20-25 mm. The top covering layer, 5-8 mm thick, is made of mortar on fine sand, followed by grouting with cement (iron plating). To avoid the appearance of cracks in the plaster, it is watered with a spray of water 2-3 times a day for 10-12 days. To increase the setting time, sulfate-yeast mash is added to the mixing water in an amount of 0.2% by weight of cement.

When performing work manually, the surfaces to be insulated are divided into sections.

If areas are fenced with beacon slats, then after removing the slats, the grooves are caulked. The thickness of the mantle specified by the project is achieved by layer-by-layer (layer thickness 6-10 mm) application of the solution. When using a solution on Portland cement, each subsequent layer is applied after the previous layer has finished setting, but no later than 24 hours, and when using a solution on non-shrink cement - no later than 30 minutes.

To grout surfaces, if necessary, apply a finishing layer of mortar (covering) 3-5 mm thick on fine sand after 12 hours when using a mortar on Portland cement and after 2 hours when using a mortar on non-shrink cement. To ensure reliable adhesion to the solution, the insulated surface must be clean, rough and moistened with water. The same requirements apply to the surface of each hardened layer before applying the next one.

Cement-sand waterproofing can be reinforced in accordance with the project.

A cement gun is used to apply plaster by shotcrete; The cement gun is designed for applying a compacted layer of fine-grained cement using compressed air. concrete mixture, continuous waterproofing layer.

Waterproofing the floor under the screed - how to do it yourself!

To prepare the solution, use non-shrink cement or Portland cement of a grade of at least 300. The sand must be clean with a moisture content of no more than 5%. Cement and sand are mixed in mortar mixers in a mass ratio of 1:1.5 when gunning ceilings and upper parts of walls to 1:4 when gunning floors and lower parts of walls. Cement waterproofing is moistened: moistening should begin 8-12 hours after shotcrete and continue for two weeks 2-3 times a day when using Portland cement and for three weeks when using pozzolanic Portland cement; When using a solution on non-shrinking cement, the waterproofing is moistened first an hour after shotcreting, and then every three hours during the day.

Asphalt waterproofing is carried out in the form of a continuous coating formed by applying hot asphalt mastics or solutions or cold emulsion mastics and pastes to the insulated surface.

Hot Stucco Asphalt Insulation is a waterproof, pliable, and highly durable coating of several coats or layers of asphalt plaster applied to vertical surfaces by plastering method, and on horizontal ones - by pouring in a heated state at a temperature of 160-190 ° C.

Hot asphalt plasters acquire waterproofing properties immediately after cooling. Hot asphalt insulation is made from mixtures of the highest viscosity, which allows them to be applied not only to horizontal, but also to inclined surfaces. The insulated surfaces are divided into sections and tiers. The coupling of grips and tiers in each layer must be overlapped to a width of at least 200 mm, and in adjacent layers - staggered.

Hot mastic is applied in layers of 5-7 mm; The total thickness of asphalt plaster according to the project is usually taken to be 10-20 mm. Work is carried out in dry weather or under protection from precipitation.

Cold asphalt mastic is produced by mixing bitumen paste with mineral powder while adding into the mixture additional amount of water necessary to obtain the desired consistency.

To obtain cold asphalt waterproofing, several layers of bitumen emulsion mastics are applied to the insulated surface. Emulsion mastics are applied in layers of 5-8 mm to a thickness of 20 mm. The junction of a previously laid strip of mastic and one that has begun to dry with a freshly laid strip is overlapped by 15-20 cm. Each subsequent layer of mastic is applied to the previously laid one only after it has dried. Plastering works are carried out at a temperature not lower than +15°C.

Cast waterproofing is performed by pouring hot asphalt mortar or mastic into the cavity between the insulated surface of the building and the protective wall. The hot material is poured onto a horizontal surface and leveled with metal scrapers in a layer of 15-40 mm. The second layer is applied after preheating the edges of the first layer. Cast waterproofing of vertical surfaces is arranged by pouring hot mastic in layers into the cavity between the insulated surface and the formwork or enclosing wall.

Pouring is carried out in tiers 20-40 cm high, a protective wall is erected from thin iron concrete slabs or brick. The vertical surfaces of the underground part of the buildings are covered with earth as the protective wall is built up. When applying hot mastic to the walls, it is necessary to ensure that there is no accumulation of water in the cavity, the contact of which with the hot mastic will cause it to boil and be ejected from the cavity. The thickness of vertical waterproofing depends on hydrostatic pressure and is 30-60 mm.

Cast waterproofing should not have cracks, holes or delaminations. If necessary, horizontal and vertical waterproofing coatings are protected with a layer of mortar.

Painting and coating waterproofing is a thin waterproof film formed on the surface by painting with hot bitumen, bitumen mastic in a hot or cold state, varnish or paints made from perchlorovinyl, epoxy, furyl and other synthetic resins.

Painted waterproofing also includes coating surfaces using flame spraying. When installing paint-based waterproofing from bitumen and bitumen mastics, the insulated surfaces are pre-painted with bitumen primers.

Primers are prepared from three parts gasoline or white spirit and one part bitumen (by weight) and are applied with spray guns, spray guns or brushes. Painting insulation is applied in a layer of 0.2-0.8 mm, coating insulation - in a layer of 2-4 mm. Painting and coating waterproofing crack during deformation, settlement and vibration of structures, so they are not used for crack-unstable structures, as well as in buildings and structures where settlement has not yet ended.

When installing paint waterproofing, hot and cold bitumen mastics are applied to the insulated surface using a bitumen sprayer. Electric spray guns, hand spray guns and spray guns are also used to apply cold bitumen mastics. Painting with varnishes and enamels made of synthetic resins (perchlorovinyl, etc.) is carried out on previously primed surfaces. To do this, use special factory-made primers or primers made from the same resin and varnish as the insulation, diluted with an appropriate solvent.

Primers are usually applied in two layers. The number of layers of enamel and varnish is indicated in the project. Perchlorovinyl compounds must have a temperature of at least +15 °C. Primer, enamel and varnish are applied with intermediate drying of each layer: the drying time for each layer of primer is at least 2-3 hours (depending on the air temperature).

Each layer of enamel or varnish is dried for the same amount of time at a temperature of 15-20 °C.

Painting and coating layers are applied in 2-3 steps to cover all missing areas of the lower layers.

The total thickness of the coating depends on the materials used and when applying hot bitumen, sand and mastics is 2-4 mm, and liquefied - 0.8-1.5 mm, bitumen pastes - 1.5-3 mm, bitumen emulsions, varnishes and paints - 0.5-1.5 mm. On top of the paint (coating) insulation applied to the underground parts of buildings and structures, protection is installed in the form of clay castles or a plaster layer of water-repellent soil.

The prepared clay mass is placed layer by layer with compaction into the formwork, which is removed as the cavity of the pits is filled with soil.

Hydrophobized soils are a mixture of sand or loam with petroleum bitumen dissolved in green oil; Such compositions are applied to isolated surfaces with a layer of 10-15 mm, like ordinary plaster.

Pasted waterproofing is a continuous waterproof carpet made by gluing onto the insulated surface several layers of rot-resistant rolled materials: roofing felt, waterproofing, isol, brizol, waterproofing fabrics (cotton, linen, hemp, jute and others, impregnated with antiseptic and bitumen), fiberglass, plastic sheet or roll materials (polyvinyl chloride, polyisobutylene, etc.).

For stickers, bitumen and bitumen-rubber mastics, bitumen-polymer alloys are used. Pasted waterproofing is applied to the surface from the side of hydrostatic pressure or moisture. Rolled materials with bitumen impregnation are glued on bitumen mastic, and with tar - on tar. The thickness of the adhesive mastic layer for each insulation layer is 1.5-2 mm. The number of insulation layers is indicated in the project.

Glue the panels to the surface from bottom to top. In each layer, each subsequent panel should overlap the previous one by at least 10-12 cm in longitudinal joints and by 15-20 cm in transverse ones. Joints in adjacent layers are spaced apart at a distance of at least 30 cm from one another. The panels in all layers are rolled out in the same direction. Cross arrangement of panels in adjacent layers is not allowed. The seams are puttied with hot mastic. Additional layers of waterproofing are glued along the corners and in places where expansion joints and embedded parts are installed.

After gluing of bitumen roll materials is completed, the surface of the waterproofing carpet is covered with a finishing protective layer of hot bitumen mastic 2-2.5 mm thick and sprinkled with hot sand.

Before gluing, polyisobutylene plates are rolled out, straightened and kept in this position for at least a day, cleaned of talc with a 15% solution laundry soap and warm water, and the sheets of polyvinyl chloride plastic are sorted, degreased, and cut.

Polyisobutylene plates are attached to the surface with glue or compositions obtained on the basis of bitumen mastics with a layer thickness of 1.5 mm. The edges of polyisobutylene and polyvinyl chloride plates are welded. Film sheets are rolled from top to bottom, overlapping the laid strip by 20-25 cm. The lower ends of the sheets are welded to the waterproofing protrusions of horizontal surfaces or to strips of sheet material glued at the intersection of horizontal and vertical surfaces.

The waterproofing must be smooth, free from dents, air or water pockets and bubbles. Loosely glued areas must be cut, dried and re-glued. Insulation work in the open air should be carried out only in the absence of precipitation on a dry base.

Sheet waterproofing is made of steel (at least 4 mm thick) or plastic sheets, which are joined by welding.

Before installing waterproofing, steel sheets are straightened, cleaned of rust, and checked for squareness. When insulating horizontal surfaces, steel sheets are installed on angles, tees or channels embedded in the load-bearing slab of the structure or in a protective fence.

A gap of 25-30 mm is left between the sheets and the insulated surface, which is filled with cement-sand mortar under pressure or compacted by vibration. During construction concrete walls metal insulation is used as formwork, installed before concreting the walls; the formwork is connected to the insulated structure using anchor connections; metal sheets and anchors are coated with two layers of anti-corrosion protection.

Waterproofing made of vinyl plastic sheets protects structures from aggressive influences. Plastic sheets are attached to the insulated surface with glue and then welded.

Water wears away stones. To prevent this from happening, waterproofing is carried out in the apartment or country house, which is the second stage in preparation for installing the floor.

Waterproofing the floor before screeding can solve a number of problems:

• prevent flooding of lower floors;
• protect the screed and floors from high humidity in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen from neighbors below;
• solve the problem of sound insulation when using rolled protective materials.

The service life of the floor depends on the quality of its implementation.

Types of waterproofing materials and methods of their installation

Presented on the construction market wide choose waterproofing materials. At the same time, in each technological group there is diversity in both price and quality characteristics. Therefore, it is very difficult to make a choice on your own.

Based on insulation technology, all materials can be divided into:

• Rolled ones, which in turn are:

1. Pasting - attached to the base of the floor and to each other, with multi-layer insulation, using bitumen mastic;
2. Fused when one side of the material is impregnated with an adhesive composition, covered with a protective film. Heating the roll with a special gas burner from the protection side leads to its melting and opening of the adhesive layer;
3. Polymer joints are heated with a construction hairdryer and glued together.

• Liquid application materials (coating mastic, liquid rubber, etc.);
• Penetrating primers;
• Dry plaster mixtures of binder type.

Roll insulation

The presence of many types of roll waterproofing is explained by the large number of combinations between the main layer of material and the types of insulating agent. The basis may be:

• Fiberglass. Budget for the price, it has a short service life;
• Fiberglass. The cost of the material is several times higher, but this is justified by the increase in strength and durability by 5 times compared to the first option;
• Polyester materials. Having the same strength as fiberglass, they are 4-5 times more elastic, which allows them to maintain excellent adhesion to the base of the floor during temperature fluctuations;
• Cardboard. Builders are gradually abandoning such materials when waterproofing the lower parts of a building due to their fragility;
• Foil;
• Asbestos paper. For waterproofing under the screed is practically not used.

Waterproofing layers are applied:

• bitumen:
• butyl rubber (rubber compounds);
• tar.

For example, roofing material is a mixture of bitumen with construction paper. Replacing bitumen with tar gives the material familiar to the older generation - only. Applying a bitumen layer to fiberglass allows you to obtain waterproofing, glass roofing material, glass felt, etc. Industrial rubber mixtures produce multi-layer, but without a base, hydrobutyl and other materials.

In addition, in a separate group of rolled materials, plastic film. The variety of types of materials predetermined several technologies for their installation.

Pasting method of laying waterproofing

All technologies for laying various types of waterproofing under screed begin with careful preparation of the base. This process is discussed in detail in the work “Preparation of the base for floor screed”, posted. Therefore, when considering all waterproofing technologies, First stage work will be omitted.

The subsequent work on laying waterproofing with your own hands consists of the following steps.

1. The concrete floor is treated with a primer - a primer for concrete made on the basis of bitumen. This will ensure the necessary adhesion of the bitumen mastic to the base of the floor.

2. Damper tape is attached to the walls along the entire perimeter using an adhesive layer or liquid nails. Its purpose is to allow the screed to expand without damage during temperature fluctuations.

3. The rolled material is cut, and along the way it is cleaned of powder and dust. In this case, it is necessary to take into account:

• this technology provides for at least two layers of material;
• the material should extend onto the walls by 15 cm (after laying the screed, the excess is cut off);
• overlapped by 15-20 cm;
• in places adjacent to the threshold, leave at least 30 cm so that the insulating material can enter the next room.

4. The cut material is rolled out and left in this position for a day, which will allow you to avoid waves and bubbles when gluing.

5. The next day, the places of contact of the waterproofing material with the base of the floor and walls are treated with bitumen mastic.

Important: cold mastic is applied in one layer 1 mm thick, hot mastic in two layers. The second layer must be applied after 3-4 hours so that the first layer does not have time to dry completely.

7. When treating the base for the second sheet with mastic, also glue the joint on the first sheet, where an overlap is formed.

8. After laying the first layer, it is tapped to identify unglued areas.

9. The resulting waves and bubbles are cut crosswise, leveled, coated with mastic and again attached to the base. The incision areas are dried and coated with mastic. An overlapping patch is applied on top.

10. Laying the second layer is done in the same order. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is that the joints of the second layer should lie approximately in the middle of the sheets of the first layer.

This method of installing insulation is relatively inexpensive, reliable, has a long service life (at least 18 years), is not damaged when cracks form in the base of the floor, and can be done on your own.

The disadvantages include high labor intensity, long time installation, a high degree of fire hazard.

Welded method

Waterproofing floor screeds using the fused method is a new, highly effective method of protection against moisture. The material is laid in one layer, and the overlap does not require primer treatment. The first steps of the technology repeat points 1-4, with the exception of sub-point 3.1, the pasting method.

Further work with this type of materials is determined by their structure. Fused waterproofing is based on fiberglass impregnated with polymer materials. Upper layer performs protective functions, and the lower one acts as glue. To prevent rolls from gluing, the adhesive base is covered with a special protective coating.

Before installation, the material is rolled again. The protective film is heated with a gas burner until the control mark disappears. As the adhesive layer warms up, the roll is rolled out and laid at the same time.

The surface of the laid material is rolled with a roller to ensure a tight fit to the base, without the formation of bubbles. The second sheet is also overlapped, as in the previous method. The work is done quickly.

This method also has disadvantages:

• cannot be laid on a wooden floor due to possible fire when using an open flame;
• high price of the material compared to roofing felt;
• the work can be performed by builders who have experience in installing insulation in this way;
• The laying technology is designed for 2 people.

Method for gluing joints of polymer materials

This method completely repeats the previous one, with the exception of one thing - it does not provide for adhesion of the waterproofing material to the base of the floor.

Important: all rolled materials simultaneously perform the function of sound insulation. The use of other types of waterproofing materials requires sound insulation.

Mastic

Coating waterproofing mastics are liquid insulating materials based on bitumen, rubber, polymers or a mixture thereof. For example, bitumen-rubber, bitumen-polymer, etc. mastics. Are applied paint brush or with a roller, similar to paint.

The work is performed in the following sequence.

1. The prepared concrete floor is treated with a primer, preferably the same brand as the mastic. In addition, the walls around the entire perimeter are subject to treatment. The height of the strip applied to the wall is 15-20 cm. A roller and brush are used for application. You will need a brush to work on areas that are inaccessible to a roller, such as the space around pipes, corners, and joints of walls and ceilings. The primer is applied in one layer over the entire surface, without missing spots. Dries in no more than 2 hours.

2. A damper tape is attached around the perimeter of the walls (this operation can be performed before laying the screed).

3. Using a wide brush, roller and spatula (it makes it easier to process the joints between walls and ceilings), apply the first layer of mastic. Work begins with the wall farthest from the exit. All hard to reach places coated thoroughly. There is no need to rub in the mastic by force. Each layer is applied in one direction, at the same time perpendicular to the previous one.

4. The next layer is applied to the previous one after 3-4 hours. If you let the mastic dry, it will polymerize and the next layer will simply fall behind. In total, the insulation is applied 3-5 times. Complete drying of the coating insulation occurs after two days.

The advantages of the method include:

• reliability;
• ease of installation - no experience or many tools and equipment required;
• environmental Safety;
• durability;
• the ability to treat hard-to-reach places.

There are several, but very significant, disadvantages:

• cannot be used in houses with constant vibration - near a highway, railway or construction sites - mastic loses its insulating properties;
• insulation is not resistant to sudden temperature changes;
• is easily damaged mechanically, and therefore, when reinforcing the screed with a metal mesh, special polymer gaskets are placed under it.

Important: such waterproofing of the floor under a screed in an apartment is effective in residential premises. In the bathroom, kitchen and toilet there should be a combined method - rolled waterproofing materials are laid on top of the mastic, which gives a 100% guarantee of the quality of the work performed.

Penetrating primers

The introduction of new technologies into production has not spared the construction industry. Penetrating waterproofing is one of them. The essence of the new waterproofing method is to change the physical structure of concrete under the influence of impregnation components.

By reacting with concrete binders, they create protective film from insoluble crystals, clogging all microcracks and pores to a depth of 0.5 mm. In addition to protection from water, such a film increases the resistance of concrete products to aggressive chemicals.

Penetrating waterproofing primer is available in liquid form - "Penetron", "Pronitrate" and in the form of dry mixtures - "Kema". How to waterproof with a penetrating primer?

1. The concrete surface is abundantly wetted, but leaks should not be allowed to the neighbors below.
2. Dry mixtures are diluted according to the instructions on the package.
3. Immediately before applying the penetrating primer, the surface is wetted again.
4. The first layer of insulation is applied with a roller or brush.
5. After the time specified in the instructions, a second layer of primer is applied to the newly moistened concrete.
6. The treated area is closed plastic film or moisturize regularly for 2 weeks.
7. After complete drying, waterproofing of the wall is carried out along the entire perimeter at a height of 15-20 cm from the base of the floor and joints with mastic using a wide paint brush.

To the advantages new technology It can be attributed to the fact that the waterproofing protection carried out:

• has no restrictions on service life;
• withstands any mechanical loads;
• has the ability to tighten microcracks that arise during operation.

There are quite a few cons:

• impregnating primer is not effective on concrete with a low grade of cement;
• cannot be applied to brick, gypsum and lime plaster, which requires treating such materials with mastic;
• very high price;
• long technological cycle.

Conclusion: the use of penetrating primer in residential construction is ineffective. Penetrating primer was originally created for waterproofing large areas.

Plaster mixtures

Plaster waterproofing mixtures consist of sand, cement and polymer components that provide protection from moisture. Unlike penetrating primer, it can be applied to any building materials:

• brick;
• concrete;
• gypsum and lime plasters.

This waterproofing has high level adhesion (adhesion) to the surface and a low coefficient of elasticity, which allows it to be applied in rooms with high temperature differences - from -50 to +70 degrees C.

Work order:

1. The mixture is diluted with water to form condensed milk.
2. Apply a thin layer to the prepared surface with a spatula.
3. After the first layer has dried, a second layer is applied within 15 minutes in the direction opposite to the first.
4. The third and, if necessary, the fourth layer is applied in the same way.
5. Drying occurs within 2 weeks, but in the first 5-7 days the surface of the plaster must be moistened: every 4-5 hours using aerosol cans (spray guns) for the first 24 hours; 2-3 times in the next 4-6 days.

This technology does not require large financial costs, is performed with one simple tool, has a long service life, and the work can be done on one’s own. The only downside is that it takes a very long time to dry.

We have reviewed the main types of waterproofing. However, there are no less effective, but not very popular types of protection against water - liquid glass, cast (liquid) rubber, bulk polymer mixtures, etc.

Attention: waterproofing the floor after screed is only possible with rolled materials due to the damper tape (neither mastic nor plaster mixtures will adhere tightly to the tape and, therefore, there will be no insulating layer at the junction of the wall and the screed).

Features of waterproofing apartments and country houses

Differences in waterproofing technology for a private house and an apartment appear only when installing a sand and gravel base for the floor. If in a cottage or country house applied concrete floors, differences in the procedure for performing protective work between the apartment and residential building No.

How to properly lay a subgrade for a floor is shown. Next steps are as follows:

• the soil is covered with geotextiles to protect rolled waterproofing materials from mechanical damage;
• Rolled waterproofing is installed.

The lifespan of a new floor is determined by many factors. But its protection from moisture is decisive. All types of floors, except ceramic floor tiles, are actively subject to irreversible changes under the influence of open water or its vapors in the air.

Cost of materials for waterproofing

Name	price, rub.	Price for 1m2, rub.
Hydroisol based on steklohost, 2.5 mm, 9 sq. m.	400	45
Uniflex TechnoNIKOL, 3 mm, 10 sq. m.	1200	120
Ruberoid, 15 sq. m.	400	27
Technoelast TechnoNIKOL, 4 mm, 10 sq. m.	1400	14
Aquastop - Perfecta, 20 kg (coating)	650	130
WaterStop SLIMS, 20 kg	850	190
Mastic Flachendicht, Knauf, 5 kg	1250	227
Bitumen mastic, 20 kg	350	70
Rubber mastic, 22 kg	1350	60
Construction bitumen, 25 kg	600	50
Bituminous primer, 20 l	650	65
Bitumen primer TechnoNIKOL, 20 l	1800	27

Video on the topic

Concrete is not afraid of high humidity. Moreover, being constantly in water or in a moistened state, concrete stone becomes stronger and stronger. And what usually needs to be protected is not the concrete itself, but ours or our neighbors’ property below, which does not need moisture at all. So waterproofing the floor under the screed is a matter of safety of property and our everyday comfort.

The problem of waterproofing a concrete floor can be solved in different ways. The point is that there is different types waterproofing materials. All of them are not ideal, but when used correctly, they all perform their task - protect against water penetration. But some are effective against moisture in its liquid state, while others cut off vapors. After all, concrete can also become wet due to evaporation or capillary suction. So to choose a material for waterproofing, you need to have a clear understanding of the ways in which moisture appears and in what form it can come. It is also worth thinking about where and how moisture will go if it does get into the concrete. The tasks are different, but waterproofing the floor under the screed must solve all of them at once, otherwise there will be problems.

What are the types of waterproofing materials?

It makes sense to separate all formulations according to the method of application. Often this factor is decisive.

Coating

They have a semi-liquid or liquid consistency. They are applied to the base with a brush, but can be in the form of a plaster mixture. Actually, the plaster we are used to is also a type of waterproofing of walls.

The easiest class of waterproofing materials to apply. Before drying, the compositions have sufficient fluidity or elasticity so that they can be applied to uneven substrates. They fill in irregularities, even quite deep ones. And this is their advantage. But under loads or mechanical stress they collapse. If coating waterproofing is used in a floor structure, you must walk on the surface carefully.

Pasted or laid

This is the oldest and perhaps most popular method of applying waterproofing. Back in Soviet times, roofing felt was used to protect against moisture. It still exists, and there is a whole list of others that have some additional properties. Modern roofing felt, by the way, although cheap, is too thin and unreliable. It is hardly suitable for high-quality waterproofing. If possible, take something more durable.

Waterproofing under floor screed in an apartment is usually done with film. Adherents of old technologies use roofing felt. At correct installation(with overlapping and double taping of joints) both materials fulfill their purpose. But only they should remain intact. And you will have to walk along them, setting up beacons, laying out and leveling the solution.

Penetrating waterproofing

There are two types. The first is applied to the surface of the concrete, the second is injected deep into the cement stone. The second type is usually used to repair the foundation, and the first is what we need. It is applied with a brush to vertical or horizontal surfaces.

Penetrating waterproofing is made on the basis of high quality Portland cement. Finely ground sand and special chemicals are added to it. Sold in powder form or ready-to-use formulation. Apply to the surface with a brush.

After application, the composition penetrates deep into the concrete. To what depth depends on the specific composition. There are those that can leak even half a meter. But this is not required for the screed. After application, the chemistry reacts with the components of concrete and forms insoluble compounds. These compounds clog the pores of concrete and “heal” even large cracks. This prevents the entry of moisture.

Penetrating waterproofing is usually used when there are problems

Penetrating waterproofing is available for concrete in different condition. Available for application to concrete stones with cracks of varying depths/widths. The cracks are closed by insoluble crystals. Such compositions are suitable for restoring the waterproofing of screeds with cracks up to 3 mm (reservoir). There is one for application on fairly durable concrete without cracks, and there is one for loose crumbling bases. There are those that remain elastic and “healed” cracks do not let water through even when enlarged. When selecting, carefully read what substrates they can be applied to and what they can do.

A convenient thing, high-quality and long-term moisture cutting, easy to use (those that are applied to the surface with a brush). But it's expensive. And it is usually used when there are problems. It is not used during construction or ordinary renovations in an apartment - it is impractical. All problems can be solved by other, cheaper means.

Water repellents

Water repellents are substances that make concrete resistant to water. The water just sits in drops or puddles and doesn’t seep inside. There can be two types - an additive during mixing or a solution that is applied to the concrete. The second type may seem similar to penetrating waterproofing, but their mechanism of action is different.

The additive makes concrete impervious to moisture throughout its entire depth. The absorbed solution forms a layer (to a depth of no more than 5 mm) that does not allow water to pass through. As you can see, both types solve the problem of protection against moisture. But the first one can be used only at the manufacturing stage, while the second one can be used after the strength has been gained (not earlier).

If the fabric is treated with a hydrophobic composition, it will also become a waterproofing

Sometimes it’s easier to lay waterproof concrete right away than to create barriers later. But the cost of hydrophobic additives is high and this is their only drawback. And water repellents that are applied to the surface are washed out over time, which leads to a deterioration in waterproofing characteristics.

In general, these are all types of waterproofing. There is plenty to choose from, but that’s not to say that the choice will be easy. As usual, it’s either simple and reliable, but expensive, or cheap, but complicated and reliability is in question.

Waterproofing the floor before screed: when, why, with what and how

Waterproofing materials are laid under a concrete screed in two cases:

• in multi-storey buildings, so as not to flood the neighbors below;
• in private houses, when they make a finishing screed over concrete preparation, cutting off moisture from the finishing screed and the coating that will be laid on it.

First, let's talk about how to waterproof a room under a screed. Under modern coatings a level base is required, so repairs rarely do without this step.

Waterproofing is laid on the floor slab in the apartment, and screed can be poured/laid on top

Waterproofing materials under screed in living rooms

In living rooms, the appearance of water is not very likely. Unless there is a flood due to burst heating pipes or something similar. Therefore, in such rooms, flooring materials are most often used - film or roll waterproofing. They do their job well and are inexpensive. The rules for laying film and roll waterproofing are the same.

• Waterproofing sheets are laid so that their edges overlap each other by 10-20 cm. These edges are glued with double-sided tape. It is safer to glue the joints twice, securing both edges.
• The waterproofing is spread over the walls. The edges are fixed to the walls slightly above the level of the future finishing coating. It is easiest/best to secure with strips with nails or self-tapping screws. Then it rolls out around the perimeter of the room.

Film or roll waterproofing are the most economical options for installation under screed

In the place where the film or roll material extends onto the walls, make a small fold. If this is not done, the material here is often stretched, so it is easy to tear.

One important point- the film should be thick and dense. Density - no less than 200 g/m². It comes with a sleeve, double. Like this, without cutting it, they place it under the screed. Then, when you walk on it, try not to tear it. Therefore, before laying, sweep and remove all rubbish. Even a small pebble or sliver can waterproofing material break.

Yes, film is the cheapest type of waterproofing for floor screeds. And it performs its functions perfectly. But if the screed is reinforced or you are laying heated floor pipes, the likelihood that the film will not break is extremely small. Even if you walk in felt slippers. For such cases, it is better to use more expensive, but more reliable and durable materials. For example, coating.

For bathrooms and kitchens

The likelihood of water appearing in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen is much higher. Therefore, they are trying to make it more reliable under the screed. To achieve this, risk areas are additionally protected. Weak spots in the floors of high-rise buildings are the junctions between the floor and the walls, as well as the inputs/outputs of heating pipes, water supply, and other communications that are introduced through the floor. This is where additional protection comes in.

The easiest way is to seal all visible cracks with a solution (cement + 3 parts of sand), and then coat the corners and places where communications enter. coating waterproofing. Usually this latex paint, but it can be any mastic with suitable properties. But it’s better not to use bitumen indoors.

The most vulnerable places are covered with a double layer of waterproofing
Which waterproofing is best for floors? Whole and without holes

After drying, you can roll out the damper tape and pour or lay the solution. Please note that such a screed will still be floating. It has no connection with the base, although the rubber film is very thin.

Waterproofing the floor under the screed for concrete preparation

In private houses in last years more and more often they do not, but concrete. Any type of coating can be laid on this basis, although the costs are many times higher. To make the screed insulated and securely cut off groundwater, first make concrete preparation (rough concrete floor). This is an unreinforced (usually) concrete slab or compacted crushed stone poured with lean concrete. This plate is needed so that high-quality waterproofing can be made.

Laying a concrete floor in a private house on the ground: with waterproofing and insulation

Waterproofing a floor under a screed in a private house is no different in this case. You can spread film or rolled materials. You can use roofing felt, but it’s better to at least use “Gidroizol” or, preferably, something denser and more durable. Just imagine that if the floor gets wet, you will have to break everything down and redo it. This is a colossal investment in time and money. There will also be an option with penetrating waterproofing and the use of all sorts of “treatments”. But their cost...

In any case, when laying rolled materials or film, the edges of the material should be placed slightly higher than the waterproofing layer in the foundation. It is important. This way you cut off moisture that may come from the foundation.

Do I need waterproofing over the screed?

When installing floors in “wet” areas or rooms, people sometimes wonder: can double waterproofing be done? Place one under the screed, the other on top. If you don’t know whether there is waterproofing in the existing screed, it is quite flat and you are not going to redo it, but will be laying an expensive or non-removable coating, then this option seems logical.

Sometimes it is also necessary to lay waterproofing after the screed

The second option is if you are very tormented by the fear of flooding your neighbors below. For your own peace of mind, you can lay a second layer on top of the screed. There is no need for this, but there is nothing you can do for your own peace of mind.

In the apartment

If the floor is tiled, one (high-quality) layer of waterproofing under the screed is sufficient. Firstly, tile is a waterproofing material. Yes, seams sealed with cement-based grout allow water to pass through. But polymer grout is waterproof. If you are so afraid of a flood, it is better to use good grout. Here you will have double waterproofing.

When can waterproofing be laid on a screed? If in the same kitchen or in the hallway. To calm your paranoia, spread the film over the screed, then the backing under the laminate, and then follow the technology. Such a thin additional layer will not affect anything.

Cracks in the screed can be repaired and covered with waterproofing

When else do you need waterproofing on a screed? If the screed is old, there are cracks. In general, in an amicable way, if there are a large number of cracks, you need to remove the old screed and pour a new one. But if there are only a few cracks and the screed pieces are at the same level, you can try to restore the slab under the tiles. To do this, widen the cracks and fill them with a repair compound. Then, if you are laying tiles, you can coat it with coating or penetrating compounds. For other types of coatings, such more serious waterproofing is also desirable, but you can get by with film.

In a private house

The same approach - with laying a second layer of waterproofing on a screed under a laminate or carpet - can be justified in a private home. But here it is needed not in order to protect the “neighbors below”, but in order to cut off the flow of water from the ground. But if there is such a problem, then this is only a temporary solution. Dampness will accumulate under the film and you will still have to redo everything.

In a private house in concrete floors the ground must be protected from capillary entry of moisture

What exactly needs to be done must be decided by examining the floor, foundation and surrounding area. But the first thing you can try is penetrating waterproofing. If the problem is that the bottom layer has torn and stopped working, this will work. If the problem is foundation settlement or cracks, then you need to look at the degree of damage and then make a decision. In general, in such cases you can’t get by with a little bloodshed.

The pleasure of living in cozy home starts with renovation. This is a long and costly process that requires attention and responsibility at all stages of the work. One of these stages is waterproofing the floor before screeding.

As you know, pouring screed is one of the most labor-intensive components good repair. It does not forgive mistakes, you will have to redo everything again, so it is very important to do even the most insignificant work correctly.

The most obvious function is protection against leaks. No one is immune from accidents, therefore, in order not to spoil relations with neighbors and not compensate them for damage from a possible flood, it is better to take care of everything in advance.

In addition to leaks outside the apartment, leaks inside are also possible. Of course, this problem primarily concerns residents of private houses and first floors, as well as owners of garages and basements.

Another function of waterproofing is to improve the quality of the screed. Usually they try to slow down the drying process: they moisten the surface and cover it with polyethylene to avoid cracks that occur when the solution quickly sets. Waterproofing helps slow down the drying of concrete, so it becomes more durable.

Waterproofing is recommended in all cases where you need to protect yourself from possible exposure to moisture. In city apartments it is required in the bathroom, kitchen and toilet. In these rooms, the entire floor is insulated, since the risk of flooding is greatest.

Many craftsmen recommend doing waterproofing in living rooms, since the pouring mixture that makes up the screed also contains a lot of water, and it may well seep into the neighbors, but usually in these rooms they are limited to insulating the joints of concrete base slabs, walls and floors , and spaces under pipes.

Residents of the first floors do not have to worry about flooding their neighbors, but they are recommended to waterproof all rooms. The proximity of the screed to cold, damp air will not do it any good. Concrete is a porous material and tends to absorb moisture, which accelerates its destruction.

They are usually a mixture of bitumen and special synthetic additives based on fiberglass, which makes them reliable and durable. Previously they were produced on paper, which reduced their service life. Such products can still be found now, and they are very attractive in price, but it is not recommended to buy them. Still, they have a considerable responsibility, and people usually plan to live in a house after renovation longer than it will take for such waterproofing to fail.

Modern roll insulation comes in two types: fused and adhesive. When laying the first type, construction materials are used gas-burners, heating the bitumen in the composition, and to install the second type of insulation, the roll is fixed to the base.

roll waterproofing

Work order

1. The first stage of any waterproofing is to foundation preparation. It is cleaned, existing cracks and potholes are rubbed with cement-sand mortar.
2. . This is required when laying roofing felt. You can additionally treat the base slabs with penetrating insulating compounds.
3. . It is needed to compensate for the expansion of the screed that may occur due to temperature changes.
4. The sheets must be laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm on each other, and at least 15 on the walls. This forms a sort of bowl for the screed. After completion of the work, the remaining insulation can be cut off. If necessary, several layers of material are laid, with offset joints.
5. Overlapping polymer sheets are welded using a construction hair dryer. The deposits are heated with a burner and fixed to the base. Ruberoid, which usually requires several layers, is attached with bitumen mastic to the base and to the bottom layer. The joining seams are also connected.
6. If waves and air bubbles appear somewhere, then these places are pierced with a knife and carefully smoothed out to expel the air. Then you need to bend the edges of the cut, coat the inside with mastic and glue it again to the base.

Such waterproofing is accessible, reliable, relatively inexpensive, but very labor-intensive to install, and also requires experience, tools and protection from mechanical damage.

This liquid materials based on bitumen. Apply with a brush like thick paint. The cheapest option is simply bitumen heated to the desired consistency, but this method is less reliable and durable. It will be much more convenient and efficient to use bitumen-rubber and bitumen-polymer mixtures. They are more expensive, but easier to use, reliable and durable. Mixtures with polymer additives, moreover, are not afraid of low temperatures.

Work order

1. Preparing the base for work: All debris and dust that may prevent the mastic from adhering to the insulated surface are removed. Be sure to remove stains from oils and any other substances that can destroy the insulation. All cracks and cracks are rubbed with cement-sand mortar, peelings and sharp protrusions are knocked down.
2. . This will help improve adhesion. Usually the primer is purchased from the same manufacturer whose mastic will be used. The product is applied thoroughly to the entire surface and dries for about two hours. More accurate information is indicated on the packaging of the product.
3. . Several layers of the product are applied, and each subsequent layer is placed on top of the dried previous one after 3-4 hours, but not later than 6. The fact is that after 6 hours, most of these products begin to polymerize, and the second layer will simply peel off. Another important point is that each layer is applied in strictly one direction. This makes it possible to apply the next layer in the opposite direction, which increases the reliability of the insulation.
   The junctions of walls and floors, slab joints, and the space under pipes are treated in this way. The width of the applied mastic strip should overlap the insulation areas by 15 cm on each side. In the bathroom, toilet and kitchen, where there is constant contact with water, the entire floor will have to be treated, so in such rooms it is appropriate to combine various ways waterproofing. Complete drying of the mastic occurs within two days.

This type of waterproofing is affordable and very reliable, while differing environmental safety, non-flammable, does not require experience and many tools. The only negative is that it has poor resistance to mechanical damage.

hydrophobic mastic

Plaster mixtures with low moisture absorption

Dry plaster solutions for waterproofing floors have appeared relatively recently. They are diluted with water to the consistency of condensed milk and applied to the prepared surface with a wide spatula. The specificity of these materials lies in their composition: in addition to ordinary sand and cement, they also contain various polymer components that reduce the moisture absorption coefficient. After drying, the resulting coating is resistant to deformation and mechanical damage.

Work order

1. Preparing the base and applying an insulating compound prepared in accordance with the instructions.
2. Break to dry the first layer, approximately 15 minutes.
3. Apply a new layer in the opposite direction to the previous one and dry the second layer.
4. Apply the third and, if necessary, fourth layer in the same way.
5. During the first 24 hours, the insulation surface must be constantly moistened. Further drying, depending on the type of mixture, can take up to two weeks, during the first days of which it is also necessary to moisten the treated surface. At this time, it should not be subjected to any mechanical stress.

This type of waterproofing is quite cheap, easy to apply, requires a minimum of tools, but creates a durable and stable coating. The downside is that it takes a long time to dry.

This is one of the most modern and effective technologies today. Penetrating waterproofing can change the physical structure of the foundation itself. The components of the mixture react with concrete, as a result of which insoluble crystalline formations appear in its structure. They literally seal up the smallest pores of concrete without damaging its structure, and prevent the penetration of moisture even under pressure. In addition, treatment with such compounds increases the resistance of floors to aggressive chemical attack.

Compositions for such waterproofing are available in the form of liquids or dry mixtures.

Work order

1. Preparation of the surface, which in this case will require not only cleaning and grouting cracks, but also abundant moisture. The base should be saturated with water, but in moderation so that moisture does not seep into the neighbors.
2. If the composition is dry, then it must be diluted strictly in accordance with the instructions.
3. Before application, the surface of the base is wetted again.
4. The first layer of waterproofing is applied. Next, you should wait the time specified in the instructions and reapply the solution to the newly moistened surface.
5. Then cover the surface with film or constantly moisten it for another two weeks before final drying.

These were the most basic and frequently used methods of waterproofing, but besides them there are many others, for example, cast, liquid rubber, naive mixtures. The choice depends on the preferences and financial capabilities of the developer.

After all work related to moisture protection has been completed, you can begin screeding. For more reliable waterproofing, it is better to use not one, but several methods, for example, combining impregnation with coating cracks and cracks with mastic in living rooms. The protection and durability of the floor and screed will depend on the professionalism and competence of the actions; therefore, you should not skimp on materials. If you have no experience and confidence in own strength, it is worth entrusting this matter to professionals, but if you have the skills and desire, all actions to waterproof the room can be done on your own.