How to choose a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes. Do-it-yourself soldering of polypropylene pipes using an example - instructions Homemade soldering iron for polypropylene

Wonderful material - polypropylene!
From it I make various homemade products for myself and for my friends.
Recently, they asked me to make a small homemade product, or rather a rack. In total, it was necessary to solder six fittings and a couple of meters of pipe.
Yes, the trouble is: I just gave my soldering iron to my friends for a while, I didn’t ask to return it so quickly.

I began to think about how else to solder polypropylene. I know what they solder gas burner but I don't have it.

Materials and tools

But there is an old "bucket" soldering iron, which I have not needed for a long time. So I decided to craft from it.

I needed a few more details.

Aluminum wire and plate;

Textolite sheet;

Thermostat and indication lamp from the iron;

Ceramic insulators;

thermal grease;

Thermal tape;

Nozzle for poly welding propylene pipes(25mm);

New electric plug;

Various nuts and bolts.

Making a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes

From aluminum plate two blanks were made: a substrate for a thermostat and a holder for a polypropylene nozzle.

The legs and parts of the body for the thermostat are made of textolite.

I connected a light bulb to the terminals of the thermostat - an indicator. And connected the insulators with thermal tape.

I connected the top and bottom of the case with screws and nuts through insulators. The lower part of the housing does not touch the boiler tubes.

To connect the thermostat in series, a break was made in the supply cable. I soldered and insulated the wires with electrical tape along with the handle of the boiler.

I made legs from aluminum with insulators from textolite plates at the end.

The 25 mm nozzle fits perfectly inside the boiler coil. An aluminum plate already bent in a U-shape is put on top of the nozzle. The joints are coated with thermal paste.

For soldering, I needed a 20 mm nozzle. I connected it with a homemade screw made from an 8 mm bolt.

Al was also wound on top as an additional radiator. larger diameter wire.

Testing a homemade soldering iron

During the first test, one defect was revealed, not counting the smoke and smell from the burning of the new "device" - not quite comfortable operation indicator. The light is on when the soldering iron is off and off when it is working. But this is not scary, but just a matter of habit. Maybe I'll upgrade in the future.

Soldering pipes with a homemade soldering iron

The thermostat was set to minimum. Heating is fast. I did not notice a difference in the quality of soldering, since the nozzle itself remained the same, only the heating element has changed.

So I managed to make a couple of welding joints with my experimental soldering iron.

Plastic plumbing has come to our life for a long time and for a long time. An invariable attribute of the repair of the Soviet housing stock, along with plastic windows, became a water supply system from polypropylene pipes.

Advantages polypropylene water pipe before steel pipes obvious:

Cheapness and wide choose materials;
Ease of marking and assembling the most intricate and complex options pipe layouts;
Environmental friendliness, material resistance to corrosion and salt deposits on the walls of polypropylene communications.

Those who are faced with the tedious and time-consuming procedure for installing a water supply system from metal pipes can appreciate simple technique plastic joints using a special soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

If the time has come to repair the apartment, the problem of replacing the water supply with plastic communications, depending on the availability of desire, money and free time, is solved:

Hiring a craftsman and a friend who has experience with a device for soldering propylene pipes, who can help assemble pieces of plastic pipes marked and cut into a single whole with a soldering iron;
Transferring the issue of turnkey repair to a team of repairmen without any desire to deal with the intricacies of assembly and soldering plastic knots;
Doing all the work with your own hands.

The simplicity of plastic soldering assembly is so captivating that it is difficult to resist the temptation and solve the plumbing problem only by choosing and buying a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

The amount of money spent on the purchase of a tool will be less than the cost of the services of a master, but on the condition that you really understand how to choose a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes. In fact, a soldering iron for propylene parts and connecting fittings is a heating element with a thermomechanical or electrical system heating control and indication. Two nozzles are mounted on the heater, allowing you to simultaneously heat with a soldering iron outer surface pipes and inner surface fitting. Heating lasts an average of about 5 s, the parts are connected with a slight pressure by hand to set and form a strong connection within 2-3 s. In case of overheating or a crooked connection of parts, a part of the molten plastic may get inside the pipe, as a result, the flow area decreases.

Important ! Doing it yourself most soldering and assembly work, you are able to personally control the quality of soldering joints of polypropylene pipes.

For innovators and DIY enthusiasts, you can assemble a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes with your own hands. The strength and durability of soldering depends on the perfection of the soldering iron and how high-quality polypropylene pipes are.

What is good soldering iron assembled by hand

The principle of operation of the soldering iron is simple and uses the principle of adhesion of polypropylene parts heated to the softening temperature of the soldered surfaces. There is not always a need to rewire or resolder half of the wiring water networks in the house. Sometimes you need to work with a soldering iron for two or three connections. In this case, a home-made, do-it-yourself mini-soldering iron for polypropylene pipes from an improvised heater can help out.

For someone with experience with electrical wiring and locksmith skills to make a small amateur version of a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes is a matter of two hours.

Usually, water pipes laid in the channels and hidden from the eyes of strangers by screens and decor, so you should not worry about beauty and aesthetic appearance. Another thing is important - incorrect temperature control and overheating of the pipe or fitting material, even under a little effort, will lead to marriage. In soldering, the first and main issue is the quality of the connection of parts.

If, when working with a homemade soldering iron, you can slightly fall short of world standards appearance- it does not matter, for amateur cases it is allowed.

To assemble a homemade propylene pipe soldering iron, you will need:

The heating element is the soleplate of an ordinary electric iron, preferably in the form of a closed aluminum block with a thermostat and an electric cord with a plug;
nozzles for a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes and fittings of the required size for your pipes;
nickel-plated M8 bolt-nut for fixing nozzles on the heater;
digital multimeter with external thermometer based on thermocouple;
a clamp or other fastener that allows you to securely fix the soldering iron on an auxiliary surface.

In addition to temperature, the speed or power of heating the surface of the parts to be joined is important. If you heat a polypropylene fitting or pipe for a long enough time, the parts will lose their shape and geometric dimensions under the influence of temperature.

Therefore, for the rapid melting of a surface with a diameter of 15–30 mm, a power of 700–900 W is required, which approximately corresponds to maximum power iron heater.

We collect homemade for propylene couplings:

At a distance of 30-40 m from the bow of the aluminum sole we drill through hole with a diameter of 8 mm and with the help of a screw and a nut we connect the nozzles for the pipe and fitting to the base of the heater;
We install the handle of the iron on the sole-heater so that it does not restrict access to the fixed nozzles;
We connect the wiring to the contacts of the iron heater;
We turn on the network and use a multimeter, a digital thermometer and a regulator on the iron to set the temperature to 265 ° C.

We use the clamp to fix a home-made soldering iron of polypropylene pipes, which will allow you to solder the parts yourself, without an assistant, the handle can also be made for yourself for the greatest convenience and minimal risk of getting burned.

Which soldering iron for polypropylene pipes is better

It has always been considered that the best tool is a professional option designed for long-term use and has high parameters for soldering propylene pipes. Professional soldering iron for polyethylene pipes suggests:

Application for nozzles of materials resistant to prolonged heating, with high thermal conductivity, not sticking to the heated surface of the polypropylene part; as a rule, brass or copper nozzles coated with teflon or carbon are used;
Easy and convenient change of nozzles on the heater flange, the kit includes a set for the main pipe sizes - from 16 to 160mm;
The metallized surface of the nozzles gives a high heating rate of the polypropylene parts;
The presence of a power supply stabilizer for the heater and auto-regulation of temperature allows you to keep the soldering iron hot for as long as you like without the risk of failure of the heating element.

Mandatory attributes of professional models of soldering irons are an easily removable stand and a case for storing and carrying the device with accessories.

For your information ! For original models of soldering irons, unlike fakes, markings and information about the model are printed in a typographical way on the case or on a metal substrate plate, tightly soldered into plastic. On fakes, the marking is pasted in the form of a metallized label and is easily separated from the body of the soldering iron.

For example, a well-known version of a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes dytron or ditron - as you like. He is highly rated for reliability and ease of use, unpretentiousness and solid construction. When soldering propylene parts, the time goes by in seconds, you have to quickly put, drop or even throw the stick on the stand, and this practically does not affect its performance. There are three models in the DYTRON line:

With a power of 850 W, the most popular in apartment renovation, it is used for a polypropylene pipe with a diameter of up to 36 mm;
Power 1200 W - for polypropylene pipes with a diameter of up to 160 mm;
With a heater in the form of a rod, with a power of 650 watts.

The soldering iron comes with a wrench for changing nozzles, which can be from 3 to 12 in the kit, scissors for cutting polypropylene pipes, building level, gloves and stand. With all the advantages, it is worth noting one negative point - the obviously overpriced soldering iron.

Important ! Such devices are designed for many hours of operation, but in any case, they require careful maintenance. non-stick coating on nozzles. Teflon is very sensitive to scratches and chips, so you should not use hard or metal objects for cleaning, except for rags.

But even specialists involved in soldering water pipes do not always strive to buy a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes in an expensive professional design. Many of the budget models assembled from Chinese or Turkish components work just as well as branded models.

Let's take for example a typical workhorse of a repairman - a soldering iron for Soyuz polypropylene pipes:

High heater power - up to 2 kW;
The kit includes six typical nozzles with a diameter of 20 to 63 mm;
In addition, the soldering iron is equipped with a hexagon - a key for changing the working tool, a stand for the device and a case.

The length of the power cord is only 130 cm, which is clearly not enough for work. But this size is typical for budget models, while professional soldering irons have a full 2.5-3.5m. "Soyuz" is equipped with a two-mode push-button heating control system and two color indicators - green and red, the latter lights up when the automatic heating is turned on.

The soldering iron is equipped with everything necessary for the successful soldering of polypropylene pipes, so it is difficult to say whether it is worth overpaying for additional accessories, as in the case of expensive soldering iron models.

How to make a homemade soldering iron for polypropylene pipes? At good master always have high-quality tools at hand. Even at home, there is always a tool, and if there is no suitable one, you can assemble it yourself. If you decide to change sewer, water, heating pipes, you will definitely need a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

For welding polypropylene pipes, a special soldering iron is used, which operates on the principle of an iron.

Now it is very rare to find iron or cast iron pipes, plastic material has become very popular.

What is the best soldering iron?

There is a very large selection of this product. Sales consultants will offer you many tools, but will not answer which one is best. Therefore, first of all, you need to pay attention to the country of origin. Now in the ranking of the most popular soldering irons, the Czech Republic occupies the first place, followed by Turkey, Russia is third, and China is fourth.

Such an apparatus is used to heat the ends of polypropylene pipes and further connect them to each other. The device is made so that it is possible to work with different diameters of pipes. To get it right, you need to know temperature regime equipment. The configuration of the soldering iron consists of a sole, two heating elements, nozzles of various diameters, which are attached to special holes.

The soldering iron makes it easy to connect the ends of polypropylene pipes of any size.

To understand the principle of operation of a soldering iron, it can be compared with the work of an iron. But the iron is equipped with one heating element, and polypropylene soldering iron- two. It also has a thermostat and an additional built-in tool - a tape measure. Also included is an alcohol marker, level, cutter for plastic pipes.

To properly start working with them, you must first learn the technology of soldering. The soldering iron should be installed on special legs (you have them in the kit), and only then plugged into the network.

Choose an element according to the size of the connector, which is intended for soldering itself. Heat up to maximum temperature, connect the ends very quickly and evenly and press down to each other.

In order for everything to work out well the first time, the soldering iron must be heated to the maximum temperature - about 20 minutes, then you need to wait 5 minutes for the nozzles themselves to warm up.

The soldering process itself will take about a minute, but it is better to read the instructions for the device. If there is a pause in the soldering process itself, do not try to reheat, as the pipes are plastic and the material itself is stretched, which means that the seam may suffer.

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Homemade soldering iron for soldering polypropylene pipes

If you can’t afford the device or you don’t have extra money to buy a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes, you need to do it yourself.
This technique can be done on the basis of an old iron.

You will need:

iron with a power of 800 W;
heater (not with a spiral, but with a heating element, preferably in an aluminum case);
chromel-copel thermocouple;
two tips;
two wires about 1 m long each;
old tape recorder;
asbestos wool;
plexiglass;
dichloroethane.

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Stages of work

Homemade soldering iron for polypropylene pipes, it is most convenient to make from an old iron.

The temperature regulator is removed from the iron plate.
Remove all unnecessary protrusions and wiring, one bare slab should remain.

Go to the turner and order two tips, one for the pipe, and the other for the fitting (for the fitting and nut). Take the dimensions yourself, for this, measure the diameter of your pipe.

When the turner does everything, use a drill to drill a hole with a diameter of about 6 mm, take the bolts and screw the tips.
On the opposite side of the nose of the iron, drill a hole large enough to fit the thermocouple freely.

All parts are connected and assembled in a casing.
Take a wire about 1 m long and attach it to the thermocouple.

Then take another wire of the same length and attach it to the heating element. They are brought out through the top of the handle.
The handle itself is attached to the outside of the casing.

At the next stage, it is necessary that a space forms between the casing and the tile, it must be filled with a thermal insulator, you can take a simple asbestos wool.

You should get two tips protruding outside the casing, they need to be thermally insulated.

Now the thermostat itself is placed, it must be placed separately and preferably in a plastic case. Plexiglas and dichloroethane can be used.

An old tape recorder can be useful for indication, there is an indicator, and there are arrows in it and, most importantly, a zero mark. By all rules, this label will be 270 °.

If the arrow shows in the red sector, then the temperature is above normal, and if it is in yellow, it is lower.

Another important element is a resistor, it is displayed outside the thermostat housing.

It will show if the heating element is working.

The process itself is as follows. As soon as you plug the soldering iron into the outlet, you need to set the temperature with the handle to 270 °.

The LED will light up and give a signal that the soldering iron starts to heat up to the desired temperature, and when it goes out, you can start working.

It is up to you to decide what is better - to assemble with your own hands or to buy. A new soldering iron on the construction market will cost 15-18 thousand rubles. If you want to assemble it yourself, it will cost only about 2 thousand rubles. since the old iron is always in the garage of any owner.

Plastic plumbing has come to our life for a long time and for a long time. An invariable attribute of the repair of the Soviet housing stock, along with metal-plastic windows, was a water supply system made of polypropylene pipes.

The advantages of polypropylene water pipes over steel pipes are obvious:

Cheapness and a wide choice of materials;
Ease of marking and assembling the most intricate and complex pipe layout options;
Environmental friendliness, material resistance to corrosion and salt deposits on the walls of polypropylene communications.

Those who have encountered the tedious and time-consuming procedure for installing a water pipe from metal pipes can appreciate the simple technique of joining plastic using a special soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

If the time has come to repair the apartment, the problem of replacing the water supply with plastic communications, depending on the availability of desire, money and free time, is solved:

Hiring a craftsman and a friend who has experience with a device for soldering propylene pipes, who can help assemble pieces of plastic pipes marked and cut into a single whole with a soldering iron;
Transferring the issue of turnkey repair to a team of repairmen without any desire to deal with the intricacies of assembling and soldering plastic assemblies;
Doing all the work with your own hands.

The amount of money spent on the purchase of a tool will be less than the cost of the services of a master, but on the condition that you really understand how to choose a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes. In fact, a soldering iron for propylene parts and connecting fittings is a heating element with a thermomechanical or electrical heating control system and indication. Two nozzles are mounted on the heater, which allow simultaneously heating the outer surface of the pipe and the inner surface of the fitting with a soldering iron. Heating lasts an average of about 5 s, the parts are connected with a slight pressure by hand to set and form a strong connection within 2-3 s. In case of overheating or a crooked connection of parts, a part of the molten plastic may get inside the pipe, as a result, the flow area decreases.

Important! By doing most of the soldering and assembly work yourself, you are able to personally control the quality of the soldering of polypropylene pipe joints.

What is good soldering iron assembled by hand

The principle of operation of the soldering iron is simple and uses the principle of adhesion of polypropylene parts heated to the softening temperature of the soldered surfaces. There is not always a need to re-wire or re-solder half of the plumbing in the house. Sometimes you need to work with a soldering iron for two or three connections. In this case, a home-made, do-it-yourself mini-soldering iron for polypropylene pipes from an improvised heater can help out.

For a person with experience with electrical wiring and plumbing skills, making a small amateur version of a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes is a matter of two hours.

As a rule, water pipes are laid in channels and hidden from prying eyes by screens and decor, so you should not worry about beauty and aesthetic appearance. Another thing is important - incorrect temperature adjustment and overheating of the pipe or fitting material, even under a little effort, will lead to marriage. In soldering, the first and main issue is the quality of the connection of parts.

If, when working with a homemade soldering iron, you can slightly fall short of the world standards of appearance - it does not matter, for amateur cases this is allowed.

To assemble a homemade propylene pipe soldering iron, you will need:

The heating element is the soleplate of an ordinary electric iron, preferably in the form of a closed aluminum block with a thermostat and an electric cord with a plug;
nozzles for a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes and fittings of the required size for your pipes;
nickel-plated M8 bolt-nut for fixing nozzles on the heater;
digital multimeter with external thermometer based on thermocouple;
a clamp or other fastener that allows you to securely fix the soldering iron on an auxiliary surface.

Therefore, for the rapid melting of a surface with a diameter of 15-30 mm, a power of 700-900 W is required, which approximately corresponds to the maximum power of the iron heater.

We collect homemade for propylene couplings:

At a distance of 30-40 m from the bow of the aluminum sole, we drill a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm and, using a screw and a nut, connect the nozzles for the pipe and fitting to the base of the heater;
We install the handle of the iron on the sole-heater so that it does not restrict access to the fixed nozzles;
We connect the wiring to the contacts of the iron heater;
We turn on the network and use a multimeter, a digital thermometer and a regulator on the iron to set the temperature to 265 ° C.

Which soldering iron for polypropylene pipes is better

It has always been considered that the best tool is the professional version, designed for long-term use and with high parameters for soldering propylene pipes. A professional soldering iron for polyethylene pipes involves:

Application for nozzles of materials resistant to prolonged heating, with high thermal conductivity, not sticking to the heated surface of the polypropylene part; as a rule, brass or copper nozzles coated with teflon or carbon are used;
Easy and convenient change of nozzles on the heater flange, the kit includes a set for the main pipe sizes - from 16 to 160mm;
The metallized surface of the nozzles gives a high heating rate of the polypropylene parts;
The presence of a power supply stabilizer for the heater and auto-regulation of temperature allows you to keep the soldering iron hot for as long as you like without the risk of failure of the heating element.

Mandatory attributes of professional models of soldering irons are an easily removable stand and a case for storing and carrying the device with accessories.

For example, a well-known version of a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes dytron or ditron - as you like. He is praised for reliability and ease of use, unpretentiousness and solid construction. When soldering propylene parts, the time goes by in seconds, you have to quickly put, drop or even throw the stick on the stand, and this practically does not affect its performance. There are three models in the DYTRON line:

With a power of 850 W, the most popular in apartment renovation, it is used for a polypropylene pipe with a diameter of up to 36 mm;
Power 1200 W - for polypropylene pipes with a diameter of up to 160 mm;
With a heater in the form of a rod, with a power of 650 watts.

The soldering iron comes with a wrench for changing nozzles, which can be from 3 to 12 in the kit, scissors for cutting polypropylene pipes, a building level, gloves and a stand. With all the advantages, it is worth noting one negative point - the obviously overpriced soldering iron.

Important! Such devices are designed for many hours of operation, but in any case, they require careful maintenance of the non-stick coating on the nozzles. Teflon is very sensitive to scratches and chips, so you should not use hard or metal objects for cleaning, except for rags.

Let's take for example a typical workhorse of a repairman - a soldering iron for Soyuz polypropylene pipes:

High heater power - up to 2 kW;
The kit includes six typical nozzles with a diameter of 20 to 63 mm;
In addition, the soldering iron is equipped with a hexagon - a key for changing the working tool, a stand for the device and a case.

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Soldering iron for polypropylene pipes: instructions on how to use an electric soldering iron, what caliber to use nozzles for soldering, how to choose a soldering iron among manufacturers

Soldering iron for polypropylene pipes: instructions for use

A factory-made or even home-made soldering iron for polypropylene pipes is an almost indispensable thing if you decide to replace the pipelines in the apartment yourself.

The use of soldering equipment allows you to quickly and reliably connect polypropylene pipes, ensuring the tightness of such a connection.

The principle of operation of the soldering iron for pipes

The device, which we most often refer to as a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes, from a technical point of view, is correctly called the “Apparatus for resistance welding pipes with a heated tool.

Soldering iron for polypropylene pipes

Principle of operation this machine simple enough:

The soldering iron is connected to the mains
Nozzles for a soldering iron of polypropylene pipes are installed in special nests, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the connected pipes
We put on the pipe sections to be welded on the nozzles, which gradually heat up
We remove the pipes heated up to the beginning of melting of polypropylene from the nozzles and join

Thus, a soldering iron for soldering polypropylene pipes allows you to quickly create a reliable and tight (though one-piece, i.e. permanent) pipe connection.

At the same time, the cost of soldering irons and ease of operation allows you to use soldering irons for polypropylene pipes on your own, without involving craftsmen "from outside".

As you can see, a soldering iron for polypropylene is very useful tool. And so that you do not make a mistake when choosing a soldering iron, below we provide a few recommendations for selecting models.

Key parameters, determining the choice of soldering iron, will be:

Soldering iron power
The presence of interchangeable nozzles (as well as their range)
Manufacturer country

Soldering iron power for polypropylene pipes

The first, and perhaps key characteristic soldering iron is its power. The power of the soldering iron for polypropylene pipes determines the maximum diameter of the pipe, the welding of which the soldering iron is guaranteed to cope with.

At the same time, the more power, the larger pipes you can weld with a soldering iron. For example, a cobra soldering iron for polypropylene pipes with a power of 1.5 kW allows you to weld polypropylene pipes. the diameter of which is in the range from 20 to 50 mm, and a more powerful power machine (1700 W) makes it possible to connect pipes up to 63 mm in diameter.

This dependence is not linear; not always the high power of the soldering iron means that it is suitable for working with pipes large diameter.

For example, the ditron soldering iron (model TraceWeld PROFI blue), which has a “modest” power of 850 W, is capable of high-quality welding of pipes with a diameter of up to 63 mm, which other soldering iron models are not capable of, the power of which is much higher (for example, fora or already mentioned here Cobra).

Another aspect that is affected by the power of the soldering iron is the speed of operation - the more powerful the device, the faster you can connect the pipes (less time it takes to warm up).

And here you need to choose: if you need to make only a few connections, then the low-power caliber SVA-750T (750 W) is quite suitable. And if you need to solder a lot, then it is better to take a model with more power, for example valtec 1500 W.

Quite often they say that when choosing an electric soldering iron for polypropylene pipes, its required power can be calculated by multiplying the maximum diameter of the pipe being welded by 10. This rule is partly true, but only partly - it must be used with caution.

The reasons why it is necessary to choose a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes by analyzing all the manufacturer's recommendations, we indicated above.

Nozzles for soldering iron

When choosing a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes in accordance with the given needs, it is very important to take into account the presence of various nozzles in the soldering iron kit. If you purchase a soldering iron equipped with various nozzles, it will be much easier for you to weld polypropylene pipes of different diameters.

Another advantage (although it is more relevant for professionals who weld a large number of pipes regularly) is the possibility of parallel installation of several nozzles. Such an opportunity is provided, for example, by a candan soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

Teflon coated tips

When purchasing a soldering iron, pay attention also to the coating of the nozzles. The most functional are soldering tips with Teflon coating, as well as tips coated with metallized Teflon.

Such nozzles not only warm up more evenly, but also last much longer. Teflon-coated nozzles are equipped with the already mentioned soldering irons candan, dytron and others.

Equipment

In addition to the soldering iron itself and nozzles, the soldering machine may also include additional tools and accessories, ranging from scissors for cutting polypropylene pipes to special gloves that will save your hands from burns when welding polypropylene pipes with your own hands: advice from masters.

Most manufacturers pack soldering irons in special carrying cases - plastic or metal.

Manufacturer country

An important role is also played by the fact where the soldering iron of polypropylene pipes you have chosen is produced.

And although today the “pedigree” of the soldering iron is not so important (globalization, after all), some patterns in geography are still present:

Czech soldering irons for polypropylene pipes rightfully occupy a leading position in the informal rating of these devices. Despite not the lowest cost, Czech soldering irons (such as the Daitron repeatedly mentioned today) are in steady demand. So if the quality of the instrument comes first for you, the Czech Republic has no alternatives.

Turkish soldering irons are somewhat of a compromise. Turkey produces both excellent models that can "plug another Czech into the belt" - and models of frankly poor quality.
That is why, having decided to purchase a Turkish soldering iron, you need to carefully approach the choice specific model by reading reviews online.

Soldering iron ENERGOMASH (STURM)

A separate niche in this market is occupied by Chinese soldering irons. On the one hand, China has been and remains China, with its permanent features: democratic and completely affordable price and unpredictable quality. On the other hand, in fact, many European and domestic (according to the sticker) soldering irons are also produced at the production facilities of the Middle Kingdom - while quality control at such enterprises ensures the output of quite competitive products.

Such devices include the Energomash soldering iron for polypropylene pipes (it is also produced under a different brand - sturm).

Well, completely different are home-made soldering irons for polypropylene, made by "craftsmen" using a variety of technical solutions (most often - spirals from irons). Such devices work unpredictably, so we will not take the liberty of recommending them for use. Yes, and from the point of view of electrical safety, such homemade products are most often not flawless (this is, to put it mildly!)

In fact, the modern electrical equipment market demonstrates a fairly direct relationship between the price of a soldering iron and quality. Thus, if you buy an inexpensive Chinese device, then, most likely, it will serve you for a short time.

But if you plan to work with pipes for a long time, then it is better to immediately purchase a more expensive soldering iron - polypropylene pipes and it will be easier to weld, and the weld will be more reliable. Moreover, the range of soldering irons for polypropylene pipes, available in building supermarkets and online stores, allows you to choose a model for almost any requirement and “for any budget”.

Guided by the above considerations, you can choose the best soldering iron for polypropylene pipes for you: the instructions for such a device, included in the kit or available on the manufacturer's website, will allow you to choose optimal mode work. And literally after a couple of attempts, you will be able to connect the pipes in your apartment with high quality when replacing them!

More information

Polypropylene pipes are intended mainly for the organization of water supply and heating in non-flammable premises. Such a pipeline is easily and quickly installed, it lasts about 50 years, but it has a significant drawback, under the influence of heating, polypropylene softens and is easily deformed. This parameter is important for heating and hot water systems, since they undergo a dynamic change in temperature, as a result of which plastic pipes change their design position.

Similar phenomena are absent during the operation of the water supply system for cold water. Based on the above, reinforced polypropylene pipes are used for hot water supply. Strengthening of plastic occurs through the use of aluminum foil, fiberglass or increase the wall thickness of the product. Aluminum integrated into polypropylene, which can be placed in the thickness of the plastic (non-sweep pipe) or outside (sweep pipe), significantly reduces the linear expansion of the pipeline.

Fiberglass gives a similar effect, which allows this type of pipeline to be used for heating. A pipe with thickened walls is used for hot water.

Basic rules for soldering polypropylene pipes

To obtain quality indicators such as the tightness of the welded joint, the preservation of the inner diameter at the joints of the parts, the aesthetic appearance, etc., the following rules must be taken into account.

The connection point must be dry and free from dirt.

Often, in practice, a situation arises when it is necessary to solder a fitting into an existing plastic wiring. Although the pipeline is equipped with a common tap, but due to wear and tear, it cannot fully fulfill its purpose. In such situations, water ingress instead of connection is inevitable. The following steps can be taken to eliminate leakage while soldering the elements:

Step 1. Shut off the common water supply valve, drain the rest of the water into the sewer through the mixer, cut off the pipeline at the junction, taking into account the immersion depth, drain the water, dry the place and weld the nodes. In this case, it is advisable to replace the faulty stop valves.

Step 2. You can temporarily stop the outflow of liquid by displacing or draining the water column from the pipeline, if the water supply stops for some time (30 seconds is enough). If the leak cannot be stopped, then the internal cavity of the water pipe is sealed with bread pulp, and after welding it is removed through the nearest mixer, but before that, the filter is unscrewed from its drain tube. It is not recommended to use as a stopper. toilet paper, it does not come out of the pipeline well.

Do not overheat connections

Due to excessive overheating, the cross-section of the pipeline decreases, and, accordingly, the intensity of the supply of water or coolant decreases. Overheating can occur as a result of non-observance of the welding temperature and the holding time of the parts in the nozzle. Table 1 presents data on obtaining a quality weld for some pipe sizes.

The nozzle of the soldering iron must be securely fixed

A wobbling cue ball in the process of working with parts damages the heating surface of the soldering iron and contributes to the formation of misaligned joints.

After connecting the elements, do not rotate or move them more than 5 degrees

To obtain uniform diffusion, it is advisable not to rotate or align the brazed elements after joining during the curing time of the seam.

The movement of the workpiece in the cue ball must be rectilinear

Other movements may reduce the strength of the seam. The junction, of course, will withstand the pressure of water in the central line, which is usually in the range of 2 - 3 bar, but at nominal pressure (10, 20, 25 bar), it may be possible to pass liquid.

Features of the stripper connection

Before connecting the stripping pipe, it is necessary to remove the foil layer from it with a special chip (shaver) to the size of the soldering depth. In the absence of a shaver, the reinforcing layer is carefully cut with a clerical knife evenly, over the entire area where the pipe is immersed in the fitting. This method looks unprofessional, but when carefully removed, does not reduce the outer diameter of the polypropylene.

What you need for soldering

To join pipes and transition elements, you will need the following tools:

set for soldering pipes (soldering iron, nozzle 20 mm, stand);
scissors for plastic pipes;
simple pencil;
pipe lever wrenches;
roulette.

Do-it-yourself soldering of polypropylene pipes using an example

Consider the soldering technique and the sequence of mounting an additional stop valves and pressure gauge into the existing plumbing system.

These elements are involved in the apartment's reserve water supply circuit (water storage tank with a pump).

A water tap is installed to switch the position of water analysis from the central line to the reserve position. The manometer signals the appearance of water in the riser. The node is quite difficult to integrate into the existing wiring due to the limited space when connecting pipes by soldering.

To create such a node, which is made of polypropylene pipes and transitions with a cross section of 20 mm, the following material is needed:

Angle at 45 degrees. in the amount of 2 pcs.
Angle at 90 degrees. -1 PC.
Tee - 2 pcs.
Coupling - 1 pc.
Pipe for cold water - 1 meter.
Coupling, female thread (MPV) 1/2 inch.
Bronze transition with 1/2" male thread and 3/8" female thread.
Pressure gauge 10 bar.
Passage crane.
Tow and FUM tape.

The tool for the soldering of polypropylene pipes.

Work procedure

With the help of tow and FUM tape, ensure hermetic connection between pressure gauge, bronze adapter and MRV.

On a soldering iron with a nozzle, set the temperature to 250-260 degrees and turn it on for heating.

After the cue ball heats up, immediately lean the tee against the convex part, and the pipe against the other, with a notch, and start feeding the parts linearly until it stops.

Mentally count 7 seconds. During this time, the surface of the parts should melt evenly. At the seventh second, pull the parts out of the nozzle and accurately insert each into the other until it stops. Hold in this position for four seconds, this is the time when the soldering point remains plastic. Therefore, it is possible to scroll the welded parts by no more than five degrees only in this range.

From the brazed tee, mark a distance of 13 mm on the pipe.

This dimension corresponds to the depth of immersion of the pipe into the fitting.

Cut the pipe along the mark with scissors.

Solder the corner and the faucet so that it is placed on the water pipe to the horizontal plane at an angle of about 45 degrees.

Connect the other end of the faucet to the tee, as shown in photo 9.

To the tee, which is located closer to the meter, weld a tube with a 90 degree angle for the pressure sensor.

On the wiring, in the approximate places where the parts are soldered, cut the pipes and drain the residual water.

Lean the assembled unit to the installation site and calculate the pipe connection.

Remove excess elements with scissors.

At one end of the remote element, which will be connected back to the pipeline, consisting of a pipe and two corners at 90 degrees, we solder coupling. We weld the other part at a certain angle into the tee.

We calculate how the pipeline will be connected to another section. Based on these data, we assemble a node from two corners at 45 degrees and a pipe. We weld it to the other side of the workpiece tee.

The resulting product is first connected to a pipe located near the sewer.

Then with a flow meter.

Lastly, with the mixer pipeline and the tank supply line.

This sequence is due to the ability to use a soldering iron in places that, after joining adjacent nodes, can be moved.

We determine the length of the pipe for the pressure gauge, solder it into the MRV and put on the mount. We apply the resulting product to the corner and mark the location of the fastener on the wall. We remove the pressure gauge and mount it to the wall.

We solder the corner and the pressure sensor. We check the tightness of the entire system.

Sometimes do-it-yourself soldering of polypropylene pipes cannot be done by one worker, due to the inconvenient placement of parts. In this case, it is desirable to solder such nodes together.