Suspended systems are gaining more and more popularity. This is not surprising, since the wall-hung toilet takes less space, compared with floor systems. In addition, they simplify the cleaning process, as there are no hard-to-reach places. Given that an aesthetically pleasing toilet bowl looks much more aesthetically pleasing, such a high interest in suspension systems becomes understandable. But often the process of installing a wall-mounted toilet raises questions, so this process must be considered.
- Preparatory work.
- Installing the installation
- Toilet installation.
Each stage does not cause any difficulties for a person who has experience working with the tool.
Preparatory work
First you need to determine the place where the toilet will stand. If redevelopment is not planned. And only the equipment is being replaced, it is natural that the place will not change. Otherwise, it all depends on the future interior of the room. It is important to know which wall is located behind the future location of the toilet. This is due to the fact that it is attached only to the main wall. A drywall partition will not work, as it simply cannot support the weight of the system and will break. 
When the place is determined, it is necessary to bring cold water to it and a drain from the sewer for waste disposal. This must be done before installing the installation system, since after it the work will be difficult. 
When the place is determined and prepared, you can proceed to the installation installation.
Installation of the installation system under the wall-hung toilet
In order to properly install the installation, it is important to approach the markup process with care. This stage is very important, since an incorrectly marked system will stand unevenly and, as a result, will have to be redone all over again. 
Therefore, before installation, it is necessary to carefully measure everything and determine the height of the future toilet bowl. Experts recommend that it does not exceed one meter, but if the family is tall, this number can be increased. When the place and height are determined, markings are applied for fasteners and holes are drilled. It is preferable to use not ordinary dowels, but special anchor bolts, since the load will be static and constant and quite large. Dowels will not be able to provide sufficient fastening reliability, so system distortions are possible in the future. 
The reliability of fastening and immobility of the structure should be given special attention, since the system will function for many years and must be properly fixed. If desired, it can be further strengthened to achieve complete immobility. 
When the installation system is installed, it must be vertically aligned in the front plane, the top plane must be horizontal, and the carrier frame itself must be securely fixed and stationary. This is the only way to ensure good view and normal operation of the system in the future. 
Bowl mounting
After all installation work has been completed, the niche is sealed with drywall. It is advisable to use moisture resistant material so that it does not swell from moisture. At the same time, one should not forget about the need for access to the drain tank, therefore, it is necessary to provide a hatch in the finish.
After finishing is completed, the toilet bowl is installed. This stage of work is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, since different models may require different actions. But the differences are not significant, the actions differ only in small details. 
If the preliminary calculations and measurements were made correctly, then the height of the bowl will be about 40 centimeters from the floor. This value is considered optimal and most convenient for ordinary people.
If you follow the instructions and carefully and accurately work, then the process of installing a hanging toilet will not cause difficulties. As could be seen, complex work no, so almost everyone can install a toilet with their own hands.
Video How to install a hanging toilet
Installing a GROHE installation
Installation of the toilet installation allows you to hide from visual view the piping unit, consisting of a drain tank, supply pipes and a sewer outlet. In addition to the aesthetic component, this approach greatly simplifies cleaning and frees extra bed in the bathroom.
Varieties
Modern installation of a toilet installation involves the use of one of two installation schemes. Each of the options has a personal set of positive characteristics. When choosing, it is necessary to focus on the material of the walls and the direction of the load on the structure.
block diagram
This way of installation of a wall-hung toilet bowl differs in convenience and simplicity.
To apply this inexpensive scheme, certain conditions are needed:
- For fixing the structure, only the main wall is suitable. It is pre-equipped with a mounting niche for the tank and other fittings. You can also use an additional partition made of brick, drywall or other materials. Decorative works carried out after the installation of the system.
- As fasteners, it is allowed to use only strong anchors that take on the entire operating load.
The strengths of the do-it-yourself block installation of a toilet bowl installation are its low cost and the possibility of using it in combination with hanging and stationary floor-type toilet bowls.
Framework scheme
The framework method of how to install a toilet installation is more difficult to implement. On the other hand, it is the only option for fastening to thin hollow partitions or plasterboard walls. The frame is very durable. The place of installation of the structure is the surface of the floor or foundation.
There are several options for mounting a wall hung toilet:
- On special fasteners to four points on the wall.
- Two points on the wall, two on the floor.
- On stable floor paws.
The main force is assumed by the lower part of the base. Strong point frame-type installations are the ability to adjust the racks. They are positioned at any level convenient for operation. Fasteners of this type are very convenient in cases where the room has a non-standard shape or original design. With the help of the frame, it becomes possible to place the toilet in the corner area of the bathroom, which saves usable space.
As for the dimensions, for block systems they are always fixed: width - 50 cm, depth - 10-15 cm, and height - up to 100 cm. Frame structures have a width of 50-60 cm, a depth of 15-30 cm, a height of 80- 140 cm (such a large span is provided by the adjustment of the racks). If the toilet is located in a wooden house or a non-permanent building, it is better to give preference to low structures with a large width. Thus, it is possible to reduce the load on walls and partitions. The plumbing unit gets the possibility of long-term operation without the threat of collapse.
Strengths and weaknesses of the solution
Like any other technology, installing a wall-hung toilet with an installation has a set of advantages and disadvantages.
Among the strengths of the design, the following characteristics can be distinguished:
- A great way to mask from visual inspection of the nodes and parts included in the toilet piping. This also applies to inlet and outlet pipes.
- Free space is freed up. This is very valuable for such a small room as a bathroom. This is due to the huge demand for the installation of a toilet installation in small bathrooms or if there is a non-standard layout there.
- Excellent soundproof parameters. Allows you to get rid of the noise familiar to everyone when draining and filling the tank.
- The room becomes more hygienic. It is easier to clean, especially in the "dead" zone under the toilet and around it.
- good and convenient fastening. After installing a plumbing fixture, you do not need to worry about its reliability. In addition, the placement height can be changed, depending on the anthropometric data of family members.
The disadvantages of installing an installation for a toilet, as a rule, include the high cost of the installation structure, the specifics of the installation and the need for mandatory removal of the external decorative finish during repair or replacement. individual elements. However, the advantages of the installation far outweigh its disadvantages, which explains the widespread popularity of such modules.
Equipment
Before you properly install the installation for the toilet, check the complete set of the structure.
It includes the following nodes:
- steel frame. It is the basis of the device, so it is made durable and reliable.
- Retractable brackets. They make it possible to set the toilet at the desired height, placing it on the floor surface or on a special podium.
- flush button. Main element the entire system, which looks like a plastic panel. Along with its main purpose, the button performs the function of an inspection hatch. Single devices only flush water. Double keys are equipped with the ability to control the water pressure. As a result, it is spent more economically. Innovative developments include other control panels additional functions. This can be a dual flush mode (economical and ordinary), or a stop flush (the ability to block the flowing water).
A number of well-known companies have begun production of more modern contactless control modules. They work thanks to sensitive infrared sensors tuned to movement or obstacles. This makes it possible to transfer the operation of the system to a fully automated mode.
Leading installation manufacturers usually give a 10-year warranty. This applies not only to the unit itself, but also to all the parts included in the package. This refers to oil seals, seals, connecting pipes and a tank. Branded service centers are able to provide spare parts even for those of their models that are already out of production.
The advantage of large trademarks in that they have widespread networks of service centers with qualified personnel. The specialists working there can always give advice on how to install a wall-mounted toilet bowl with an installation.
Necessary tools for installation
To solve the problem of how to properly install the installation, you will need a certain set of tools and devices. It is better to mount block or frame modules before carrying out finishing in the bathroom. The procedure itself, how to make the installation, is not complicated. Its implementation does not require deep knowledge or extensive experience in plumbing work. The product comes with a fairly detailed and understandable instruction and a CD with a video tutorial. In the course of installation, do-it-yourself toilet installations do not use specific equipment or expensive tools.
As a rule, all the necessary devices for this are in the house of a self-respecting man:
- Pencil, construction tape measure, ruler, level.
- Hammer drill or impact drill with a set of drill bits for concrete of different diameters.
- Screwdriver, hammer, glue, sealant, FUMka.
- Open end wrenches in several sizes.
This simple set of tools and fixtures will allow you to easily implement the installation installation yourself.
Where to place
In preparation for installing a toilet with a do-it-yourself installation, you need to decide on its location. Inside small shared bathrooms, this can be a corner of the room. In any case, the toilet should not block the passage. According to experts, it is most convenient to mount a new system in the area where the old toilet stood. As a rule, there are already outlets for sewer and water pipes, which significantly speeds up the installation procedures.
Markup rules
To mark up, you will need a simple pencil or marker, a tape measure and a level. When performing measurements, they are repelled from the dimensions of the installation module. A properly designed toilet installation scheme greatly facilitates subsequent installation work.
Marking order:
- Find the central axis of the structure and transfer it to the wall with a ruler and a pencil.
- Determine the dimensions of the gap between the edge of the installation and the wall. Permissible values - not less than 13.5 mm.
- Mark on the wall the location of the drain tank and the fixing points on the floor and walls. This is where the fasteners of the structure will be placed.
If everything is done correctly, it will be very easy to assemble the installation, as required by the instructions. The finished module will not clutter up the space and create obstacles to movement inside the bathroom.
Block system installation
For the installation of a block-type installation, only a main, load-bearing wall is suitable. You can start working after choosing right place and carrying out marking procedures.
Description of how to put the installation of the toilet:
- Determine the overall height of the module. As a rule, they are aligned with the specifics of the installation design. Most often, this parameter does not exceed 100 cm.
- Mark places for dowels that act as fixtures for equipment. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the holes are located at the same distance from the central axis. To make holes, a hammer drill or impact drill is useful. The immersion of the dowels is carried out with a hammer or manually.
- Equip the installed dowels with anchors. This makes it possible to fix the main fragments of the module. Screws and nuts are used as fasteners. Alignment of the frame vertically and horizontally is carried out using height adjusters, clamps and plugs.
- Bring the drain tank to the frame and fasten it to special connectors (they are included in the device kit). When fixing on bolts, they carefully monitor the observance of the distance between the frame and the wall. The permissible value is no more than 21 cm. In case of non-compliance with this requirement, problems arise with fixing the toilet bowl through a decoratively designed wall. The bolts in this case are too short.
- Connect the module to pipelines. The water pipe is connected to the tank, and the sewer pipe is connected to the installation. To do this, you need plastic clamps. To achieve complete tightness of the butt sections, silicone sealant is additionally applied to them.
- Screw the pins into the pre-drilled holes. Couplings are put on the studs and the nozzles are adjusted to size. Sufficient cushioning is provided by silicone or rubber pads.
- Install toilet bowl. Attaching the wall-hung toilet to the installation provides good tightness for all docking points.
- The last step in the procedure, how the toilet is attached to the installation, is to attach drain hose. Clamps are usually used to fix it.
When all installation work is left behind, it is necessary to check the operation of the plumbing unit and proceed to the finishing of the false wall. It will cover all the unsightly nodes of the structure.
Floor installation
Installation of the installation under the toilet, located on the floor surface, can be done with your own hands. It won't take a lot of time and effort. And implementation is within the power of a person without special knowledge in the field of plumbing. Using the finished design, you can mask all communication elements. The area of the room receives additional space, which makes it more attractive, neat and modern.
How to install the installation for the toilet on the floor:
- To fix the position of the knee, reliable metal fasteners are used. To process the release of a plumbing fixture, a technical ointment is used. Only after that the toilet is allowed to be moved to the future installation site. The marking of the drilling points through the niches in the heel of the device is carried out with a pencil or marker.
- The toilet bowl is removed, which allows you to set the mounting brackets. The markup serves as a guide. After that, the plumbing module is installed back in such a way that the drain pipe falls into the fan pipe.
- The installation of the drain tank is carried out according to the instructions from the manufacturer. To connect the installation to the sewer, as required by the rules, a connecting cuff is used. It fixes the place where the toilet is released. The bolts must be tightly screwed, and the decorative overlays must be worn.
- To bring out the drain panel, a technical hole is made in the partition. The assembled system is tested for tightness. All detected leaks are eliminated.
After a successful check, you can proceed to the rigid fixation of the toilet heel and installation of a decorative partition over the installation.
How to assemble a frame structure
Before you properly install a wall-hung toilet through a frame installation, you need to decide on its location. Next, the required marking is applied to the selected area. The advantage of mounting frames is that they are able to securely fix plumbing fixtures to both solid and hollow foundations. This list also includes the popular drywall partitions and light walls. Thanks to the frame kit, the toilet can be placed in the corner and under the window.
How to make an installation in the toilet based on the frame:
- Mark the area where the frame and fasteners will be located. Most often, this scheme for installing an installation under the toilet implies the presence of two floor and two wall fixation points. Alignment of the structure in space is carried out by means of a level and a plumb line.
- In places of marks, drilling is carried out with a puncher or an electric drill. The diameter of the drills is selected depending on the cross section of the dowels. To increase the reliability of fastening the frame, in addition to dowels, it is recommended to use anchor bolts.
- Examine the drain tank for the location of the outlets. Most often they are located on the bottom or side surface of the case. This moment affects how to connect the installation to the water supply. It is most convenient to use plastic pipes. With regard to flexible hoses, due to their limited service life, their use is not recommended. When the time comes for replacement, you have to spend a lot of time and effort to dismantle the exterior finish.
- Using a pipe or corrugation, the module is switched with a sewerage system. The bowl at this stage is connected temporarily until the appropriate tests are carried out. The drain panel should operate as smoothly as possible.
- If the testing of the design was successful, you can proceed to the final fixation of the position of the bowl and the finishing of the structure. At the same time, it is important to prevent the sewer outlet and the niche under the construction waste button from getting inside. It is covered with a special overlay.
Having made the installation for the toilet, as required by the instructions, they proceed to the construction of the external false panel. It is placed around the perimeter of the entire complex, using a metal profile for this. These strips are convenient for the subsequent fastening of any sheathing (fibreboard or gypsum boards).
How to check the health of the system
Upon completion of the installation procedures and connection of the installation nodes, the unit is checked for its operability. First of all, you need to completely unscrew the water supply tap and see how the tank will be filled. If no failures are observed during the operation of the system, and there are no leaks in the connecting sections, you can proceed to the final design.
If even the slightest trace of moisture is found at the pipe joints, every effort must be made to achieve complete tightness. If communications in this state are closed with a wall, this can lead to serious problems, up to flooding of neighbors from below. Most often, problems of this type are eliminated by additional compression of the couplings or linings. For fidelity, silicone sealant is introduced into the thread.
During the installation of a wall-mounted toilet for installation, as a rule, the following defects are encountered:
- Leakage of water from the tank. The reason is usually the misalignment of the gaskets during the docking of individual modules. To eliminate the malfunction, turn off the water supply, remove the connecting screws and inspect the gaskets for their correct location. Any inconsistencies found must be corrected. It is better to replace products that are too chewed up with new ones.
- Toilet bowl backlash. To eliminate this defect, it is necessary to check the rigidity of the plumbing fixture and the installation fasteners. Weak elements are carefully tightened: this will make it possible to clearly fix the position of the toilet bowl in space. In this case, it is important not to overdo it so as not to strip the threads on the plastic fittings and connectors. The same applies to metal screws, with excessive tightening of which ceramics can simply crack.
- Stagnant water in the bowl. This indicates a positioning error. drain pipe. To troubleshoot, run complete dismantling plumbing fixture. Only in this way can you get free access to the drain pipe: it is placed exactly at 45 degrees to the floor surface. After that, the toilet bowl is returned to its place.
- Damp stains in close proximity to the toilet. In most cases, the reason lies in the insufficient tightness of the corrugated pipe. To eliminate leakage, an additional layer of sealant is applied over the butt section. After the solution has dried, you can assemble the structure.
All of the listed faults are simple, and can be eliminated by the owners of the dwelling. In cases where they cannot or do not want to do this, there is always the opportunity to seek help from a professional plumber. The specialist will do everything quickly and reliably.
Before independent implementation installation work It is recommended that you read the following installation instructions for a toilet installation based on many years of experience:
- The installation scheme for the toilet should contain an inspection hatch under the drain panel. This will greatly facilitate the planned maintenance of the tank and carrying out repair activities. The masked hole provides quick access to the inside of the structure.
- When choosing a decorative wall covering the installation system from prying eyes, it is recommended to choose structures no thicker than 70 mm.
- The use of innovative flush buttons has not only an aesthetic but also an economic effect. It has been calculated that toilets equipped in this way reduced the level of water consumption for flushing by an order of magnitude. As a result, this affects utility bills.
- It is most convenient to install a drain control button in the central area of \u200b\u200bthe tile or on the seam between two tiles.
- The optimal height of the toilet bowl above the floor level is 40-45 cm. This will make it possible to protect yourself from water stagnation inside the bowl and provide the desired drain angle along the sewer outlet.
- The standard distance between fixing holes depends on the type of construction. For compact models, the fastening pitch is recommended within 18 cm. For overall toilet bowls, the distance can be increased to 23 cm.
The hanging toilet differs from the classic floor-standing toilet only in that the communications are hidden inside the wall. Only the toilet is visible from the outside. The rest of the water supply and disposal system is hidden behind the wall. This is what is called an installation.
It is a rectangular metal frame with threaded holes for mounting, and a flat plastic drain tank. A drain key is also attached to the system, which costs almost more than the installation itself (TW key bronze 16,920 rubles).
Recently, installing a wall-hung toilet in the bathroom was not possible, but now, thanks to the huge selection in the plumbing market, installing a wall-mounted toilet can be done by yourself. Although many are afraid to install a suspended structure, because there are some outdated myths regarding it.
Myths about the wall-hung toilet
Myth 1. A hanging toilet, if a heavy person sits on it, will fall and break.
The toilet itself, if it is made with high quality, without cracks, can withstand weight up to 400 kg. The only thing that can fail is a poorly installed installation. It is a welded metal frame of square section. The installation is fixed to the floor with two bolts of 12 mm in diameter, and to the wall at a height of 1.2 m above the floor level with bolts of the same diameter.
The toilet itself is hung at a height of 35-40 cm above the floor. One such bolt is able to withstand a person, and there are two such bolts, and even a couple below. If you find a 12 mm drill, then screwing in such bolts will not be a problem, and the installation will not crash with daily use of plumbing.
The usual floor-standing toilets have been replaced by suspended structures that do not take up floor space and look more modern. Not surprisingly, wall-mounted models began to displace traditional products from the market. Installation suspended structure more difficult, takes more time and costs more, but you can save money if you consider such an option as installing a hanging wall-mounted toilet with your own hands.
Internal arrangement and principle of operation of the structure
If you understand the design features of the product, it becomes clear how to install wall-mounted toilet.
The design of the wall product is such that only the toilet bowl is a visible element
The first element is a strong steel frame, which is the basis to which the visible part of the structure is attached - the toilet bowl. It is with its installation that the installation of a hanging toilet begins. The frame is securely fixed to the wall, also fixed to the floor - as a result, it must withstand the weight of a heavy person.
Accordingly, it is unacceptable to mount this structure to weak walls (for example, drywall), since the wall simply cannot withstand it. The frame is equipped with a device that allows you to adjust the height (400-430 mm), on which the bowl of the product is mounted. It is suspended from the frame using special pins - this is the main fastening of the hanging toilet.
Often two installations are installed at the same time - for the toilet and for the bidet
The second element is a plastic drain tank hidden in the wall. Its shape differs from the traditional one, since the container must fit in a narrow structure. It is mounted in a steel frame and insulated with a special material that excludes the appearance of condensate - styrene. The front wall of the tank is equipped with a cutout for mounting a trigger button device. In case of repair, this cutout is also used. Almost all modern cisterns involve drain dosing: for example, the volume of drained water can be either 3 liters or 6 liters, depending on the purpose.
Cisterns of flat configuration are fixed inside the installation
The third element is the toilet bowl, the only visible and actively exploited part of the structure. Its shape is traditional, oval, although designer models come in both round and rectangular configurations.
There should be no problems with fasteners, since a set of necessary details and tools and installation instructions. Sometimes it is required to additionally purchase a Teflon tape, a polyethylene outlet, a flexible hose, and studs.
Installation technology for installation
Mounting a wall-hung toilet with a special frame installed in the wall is more expensive, but more reliable and faster.
The installation must be mounted to the floor and the main wall
- Installation of a steel frame - through special holes it is attached to the main wall and floor with dowels. At the installation site, sewer and water pipes are removed. The frame (installation) should be checked for evenness using a level. It should be clearly parallel to the wall to which it is attached. At this stage, the installation height of the hanging toilet bowl is also set - 40-43 cm. It depends on the height of the apartment owners.
The height of the toilet bowl is adjustable during installation
- Water supply to the tank. It can be flexible or rigid. Experts insist on a hard option, as it lasts much longer. While the liner is being installed, the valve in the tank is in the closed state.
At the time of work, the drain of water from the tank should be blocked.
- Connecting the toilet to the sewerage system. The toilet outlet is inserted into sewer outlet, fix the connection with the help of corrugations. After installation, it is necessary to test the system - make a test drain. To do this, the toilet bowl is completely screwed to the frame for a while. Then it is removed again, as it is usually installed at the final stage.
Many installation kits are connected to a sewer pipe without using corrugations
- Sheathing of the working area with sheets of drywall. For the plumbing unit, sheets of waterproof double drywall are chosen, more durable than usual. The panels are mounted to the frame and a metal profile, which is mounted on the wall. The instructions supplied with the product contain detailed diagram cutting material with places to cut the necessary holes. There can be two options for sheathing: for the area of the entire wall or just to close the installation. In the second case, an impromptu shelf will appear above the toilet bowl.
An impromptu shelf above the toilet and bidet can be used for decor or the right things
- Partition wall cladding ceramic tiles or panels similar to the finishing material of the bathroom.
Wall cladding behind the toilet should be in harmony with the rest of the room.
- The final stage is the installation of a wall-mounted toilet bowl, specifically its bowl. It is hung on the allotted part of the steel frame using two studs.
Lined drywall sheets cover the installation and cistern, leaving the toilet bowl and flush button
Particular attention should be paid correct installation installation, as the correct execution of subsequent work depends on it.
Installation of a toilet bowl without installation, on a concrete base
Sometimes they are interested in how to install a hanging toilet without installation. Of course, installing a toilet on a frame can be replaced with a cheaper option - mounting on a do-it-yourself concrete base.
The drain tank is installed in two ways: either mounted on the wall with the withdrawal of the drain buttons, or placed in a standard way above the toilet bowl in a manufactured base.
Scheme of fastening a wall-mounted toilet bowl: 1 - 2 rods mounted in the wall; 2 - monolithic concrete base; 3 - drain pipe
Consider the most economical option.
To install, you need to prepare:
- about 40 liters of concrete M200;
- formwork boards;
- nuts, washers, wood screws;
- 2 threaded rods 2 cm thick (length from 50 to 80 cm);
- piece plastic pipe(length - 8 cm or more, diameter - 11 cm);
- drain coupling;
- silicone sealant.
Start by fixing the rods in the main wall. In the future, a toilet bowl will be “planted” on the releases of the rods. You get a fairly stable design that can withstand a weight of 400-500 kg.
The dimensions of the concrete base are calculated taking into account the further dismantling of the formwork
Install formwork. Calculate the distance between the holes for fasteners, mark the fastening points on the formwork.
Calculate the length of the rods: sum up the thickness of the recess (about 15 cm), the distance from the toilet bowl to the wall. To fix the rods in the wall, a chemical anchor is used - a special glue for concrete.
After mounting the pins and installing the formwork, they try on the toilet bowl. Holes for fastening must coincide with the outlets, the outlet - with the drain of the coupling.
The concrete base will finally harden only after 2-3 weeks
Start concreting, supporting the drain hole with foam. The result is a monolithic block with a fixed open sleeve and outgoing pins.
The concrete base must include the pins for the toilet bowl, the outlet of the drain coupling and the space at the top for mounting the cistern
You should not think about how to install a wall-mounted toilet on a prepared base - the subsequent steps do not differ from installing a conventional floor-standing toilet: connect the drain, seal the connections, install the bowl on the pins, tighten the nuts. The drain tank is fixed above the toilet bowl.
The concrete base and drain pipe can be covered with drywall sheets, leaving an opening for access to the drain tank
Such a do-it-yourself installation of a hanging toilet bowl will save the family budget, since an expensive installation is not required.
Do-it-yourself installation and fastening of a hanging wall-mounted toilet
Self-installation of a hanging toilet. Features of the stages of installation on the installation and concrete base. Video instruction.
Instructions and tips for installing a wall-hung toilet with installation
Suspended plumbing fixtures are gradually gaining popularity, especially among owners small bathrooms. However, not everyone likes hanging toilets - outwardly they seem unstable and unreliable. This impression is deceptive, because the installation of the wall-mounted toilet is carried out using an installation system that is hidden behind finishing material walls. Let us consider in more detail the advantages of suspended plumbing objects and get acquainted with the instructions for their installation.
Benefits of wall hung toilets
- compactness . The space of the bathroom is freed up due to the lack of a drain tank - it hides in the wall along with the rest of the communications. Thanks to the resulting void under the toilet, plumbing seems weightless, this technique visually lightens the interior and makes it visually more spacious.
- Modern style . Suspended plumbing is a relatively new invention, its installation immediately indicates that the owner of the house is following the development of technology and keeping up with fashion trends.
- Versatility . It doesn’t matter if you are only changing the toilet bowl or completely renovating the bathroom furniture and equipment – a hanging toilet bowl will always be appropriate and will make the interior of the bathroom elegant and concise.
- Practicality . Cleaning the room is now much easier. The installation of the "warm floor" system is also facilitated. Floor tiles placed without violating the integrity of the ornament.
Choosing and buying a toilet bowl with installation
The main condition for purchasing an installation is that it must match the model of the toilet bowl you have chosen. Often, wall-hung toilets are equipped with an installation system initially, it is best to prefer this particular option.
The installation must match the size of the niche in which it will be placed.
Installations are of two types.
block - fastened to the wall using conventional anchor bolts, which are the main support of the entire structure.
Framework - is a frame on legs, thanks to which the height of the toilet is adjusted. The frame is attached in four places. It is possible that all four mounts are fixed on the wall - this mounting method can only be used in the case of solid walls.
If the wall is not stable enough, choose an installation with two mounts on the wall and two on the floor. The last two fasteners bear the main load.
Pay attention to the equipment of the device. In a favorable scenario, you will receive the main part (blocks or frames), fasteners, flush keys, noise insulation, flush tank and adapter.
Stages of installation of a toilet bowl with installation
- We are marking the walls. We draw a line - the central axis of the future system. We calculate the distance between the installation and the wall, which will house the sewerage and water supply. We mark the mounting points of the installation and the location of the tank.
- Provide a technological hatch just below the drain button. This will greatly facilitate the maintenance of the tank and its repair if necessary.
- Use modern flush buttons that save water. It can be two separate buttons, one of which drains the full volume of water in the tank, and the other half. Another option is the presence of "Start" and "Stop" buttons.
- Consider the location of the drain button relative to the tile elements. Design the button either strictly between two tiles, or in the center of one of them.
- The top edge of the toilet must be no higher than 45 cm from the floor and no lower than 40 cm.
- The thickness of the wall hiding the installation system should not exceed 7 cm.
- A standard distance of 18 or 23 cm is maintained between the mounting holes of the toilet bowl.
- Control the correct installation at all stages of work. This will help to avoid gross errors during installation and problems during the operation of plumbing equipment.
The toilet bowl installed according to all the rules with the installation is able to withstand a load of up to 400 kg! If you doubt that you can do all the work correctly and efficiently, we advise you to resort to the help of qualified specialists. Well, to save the budget, of course, will help self-assembly installation systems. Feel free to use technological and design know-how to create an original and practical interior.
Installing a toilet bowl with installation: detailed instructions and tips
We offer detailed instructions and useful tips for installing a wall-hung toilet with installation.
Installing a hanging toilet with installation: the subtleties of installation
Toilets with installation are real aristocrats in the world of plumbing. These are convenient and compact devices, usually distinguished by their magnificent design and the price that is not sparing at all for its owner. In addition, the installation of a wall-hung toilet is a rather complicated task, it requires very careful execution.
And yet, the ranks of adherents of toilet bowls with an installation are steadily growing. Many home craftsmen, after studying the recommendations and instructions, successfully cope with the installation of this difficult structure on their own.
It is only important to correctly perform each stage of installation work.
How is a wall hung toilet?
A hanging toilet is much more complicated than a conventional compact or monolith. The installation is called a solid metal frame. This frame is installed inside the wall niche and securely fixed to the wall and to the floor.
The flat plastic tank is already attached to the frame. Then the necessary communications are brought to the niche, finishing is done and the toilet bowl itself is hung.
The toilet remains outside, and the rest of the filling remains hidden in the wall. A flush button is also displayed on the wall, which is usually located on the wall above the bowl. Even from this brief description, it can be understood that the installation of such a device is a laborious process.
But still, the model with the installation has many advantages:
- aesthetic appearance and attractive design - the bowl seems to float above the floor;
- compact dimensions, leaving a wide scope for placing the toilet in both small and large bathrooms;
- the absence of a leg makes it much easier to clean the room;
- the design of the installation is universal, it is possible to choose some elements to your taste and budget;
- frame and tank failures are extremely rare, and repairing or replacing the drain button is usually not difficult.
Among the shortcomings, the high price should be noted. Including installation costs, the cost of such a toilet can be twice the cost of a standard floor model.
However, manufacturers take into account the growing popularity of suspended plumbing, so relatively inexpensive models have appeared on sale. Another drawback is that the tank and frame, hidden in the wall, are not too accessible for repairs.
In the event of a serious breakdown, you may have to turn the entire wall around and redo the Finishing work on this area.
Materials and tools
To install a toilet bowl with the installation of a built-in toilet bowl, you must purchase the following items:
- installation frame with a plastic tank;
- bowl wall mounted toilet;
- flush button;
- toilet studs;
- a set of nozzles for connecting a bowl with a tank, etc.
The installation is usually supplied complete with a flat plastic tank, as well as adapters, nozzles, fasteners and a flush button. The kit usually includes a special material that protects the structure inside the wall from the effects of condensate, and also reduces the noise level from the operating tank.
When buying, you should carefully check the kit in order to immediately purchase the missing items. The toilet bowl is also purchased separately. The dimensions and configuration of the installation, as well as other details, are standardized, so they can be changed if desired.
For example, you can choose the new dual flush button, which saves water.
To complete the installation, you will also need a number of tools, primarily a hammer drill and concrete drill bits that match the fasteners. Need also building level, ring spanners, tape measure, marking pencil, drywall cutting knife, etc.
The procedure for installing a wall-hung toilet
Schematically, the procedure for installing a toilet bowl with an installation can be represented as a series of basic steps:
- Make a niche in the wall of a suitable size.
- Bring the sewer to the niche.
- Perform installation of the installation frame.
- Lead to the place of installation of the cold water supply pipe.
- Connect the toilet bowl.
- Close the niche, install the flush button and finish.
- Hang the toilet by connecting to the tank, as well as to the sewer.
You will also need a certain amount of drywall, both for installation and for finishing work.
Each stage of the installation of a wall-hung toilet requires close attention. The service life of the device, the number and nature of breakdowns largely depend on the quality of the installation work.
The results of even minor errors made during the installation process may not become apparent immediately, but only during operation. Repairs can be very costly and time-consuming, so it’s better to install all the elements of this device right away than to redo it later.
Niche for installation
Only walls with an appropriate load-bearing capacity are suitable for creating a niche and installing an installation. The installation is able to withstand a weight of about 400 kg, and part of this load falls on the wall. Therefore, it would be unreasonable to put a wall-mounted toilet on a drywall wall, it can simply collapse.
So, to install the installation, you need to hollow out a niche in the wall with the following parameters:
Sometimes depth requirements are not easy to meet. In this case, the niche is made to the possible depth, and its disadvantage is hidden with the help of drywall and finishing.
Thus, there is space for experiments in the field of interior design. For example, you can make a built-in wardrobe in the space between the ledge that appears and the wall, or hang open shelves there.
But the idea of just putting the frame along the wall, and then completely sheathing it with drywall does not make much sense. In this case, it is easier and cheaper to put an ordinary compact in the same place, which will take up the same amount of space or even less.
Upper floor residents apartment buildings sometimes installed in the niche of the fan riser. At the same time, a part of the fan riser is cut off and an air valve is installed where the outlet to the attic is located.
In some bathrooms, a niche for communications is provided for by the project. It can also be used to mount the installation, but some modifications may be necessary, such as changing the position of water pipes and moving the sewer riser.
If the home craftsman does not have experience in performing such operations, it is better to consult with a specialist or even entrust him with this part of the installation work.
Sewerage supply
Before installing the frame, it is necessary to take care of the correct supply sewer pipe to the place of installation. You will need a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. It should be laid as close to the floor as possible, while it is imperative to maintain the correct slope.
The connection point must be 250 mm from the center of the wall niche. An oblique outlet with an angle of 45 degrees is put on the horizontal part of the pipe. After completing these operations, you can proceed with the installation of the installation.
Installation of a frame with a tank
Four points are provided for mounting the toilet installation. In two places the legs of the frame are fixed to the floor, and in two more places the frame is fixed to the wall with brackets. In this case, it is imperative to use the building level so that the structure is perfectly level both vertically and horizontally.
If the installation is installed even with a slight distortion, interruptions may occur in the operation of the internal mechanism, which will lead to an early breakdown of the structure. To align the vertical position of the frame, use adjustable legs.
The horizontal position is set using wall mounts, the position of which can also be changed as needed. Once the position of the installation is accurately aligned and fixed, it can be screwed to the wall. To make the frame more stable, the legs can be additionally cemented.
A screed layer 20 cm high will be sufficient, but this measure is not mandatory.
At the bottom of the installation there are several holes for further installation of the hinged bowl. The distance between the floor and these holes should be approximately 300-400 mm so that the toilet bowl can be hung high enough from the floor. Special studs should be installed in these holes.
They are inserted all the way into the wall and secured with special nuts. The studs are designed for subsequent hanging of the toilet bowl.
Connecting communications
You should start by connecting the sewer. Typically, the installation is completed with a special black outlet designed for this connection. It should be fitted to the sewer pipe. The other side of the outlet is attached to the installation with special clips.
Connection to the water supply is made on the right or left side of the installation. The water pipe is connected using a threaded connection already installed in the structure.
Ordinary flexible hoses can also be used to bring water to the tank. This is an easy-to-install and low-cost option, but hoses have a shorter lifespan than pipes, so complex repairs must be considered to replace them.
At this stage, it is necessary to check the reliability of the connection of the tank with the plumbing system. To do this, open the water supply valve, which is located inside the tank, and fill the container. All connections are then checked for leaks and repaired if necessary. It is not necessary to drain the water.
Checking the sewer connection can be done as follows: put a bowl on the studs and perform a test flush without fixing the structure.
After that, the bowl should be removed from the mount, check for the presence or absence of leaks, and then continue installation.
Finishing work
If the installation is installed correctly, and the tank does not leak, you need to sew up the niche with a sheet of drywall and perform finishing work. It is recommended to take a double sheet of special moisture-resistant drywall. Ordinary drywall will soon be damaged due to contact with condensate.
To properly cut everything mounting holes in a sheet and not spoil the material, use a template for cutting. Typically, such a template comes with the installation.
In the bathroom, the walls are most often tiled with ceramic tiles. Further work on the installation of a wall-mounted toilet can only be started after this stage is completed.
It will not be a mistake to even completely complete the renovation of the bathroom, and only then proceed with the installation of the wall-mounted toilet with the installation.
Installing a wall hung toilet
This stage can be called the simplest, since the bulk of the work has already been completed. But first, it is recommended to wait until the tile adhesive layer has completely dried. Perform the installation of the toilet bowl as follows:
- Adjust the dimensions of the outlet of the drain tank, which should protrude 50 mm beyond the wall.
- In the same way, the pipe intended for the sewer drain is cut.
- Install the pipes in the places intended for them.
- A special large-sized gasket is put on the previously installed studs and pipes; in configuration, it looks like a truncated pyramid.
- Put the toilet bowl on the studs, securely connecting it to the nozzles.
- Install plastic inserts and rubber gaskets.
- Put on and tighten the fixing nuts.
- Cut off the protruding part of the rubber gasket.
After that, you can check the operation of the sewer by flushing water from the tank into the toilet bowl. To adjust the height of the toilet bowl above the floor, you can change the position of the retractable pins and studs designed to hang the bowl. In this case, they are usually guided by the growth of the visitor.
The universal height is considered to be a distance of 40 cm from the edge of the bowl to the floor level.
Mounting the flush button
It remains to install the flush button. It can be pneumatic or mechanical. This is not a difficult operation, since all connections are already provided on the installation and must already be routed to the appropriate hole on the wall.
To install a mechanical button, you will need to install special pins and then adjust their position. The pneumatic model only needs to be attached to the tedious tubes on the installation, and it will be ready to go.
Installing a wall hung toilet with installation: step by step installation do it yourself (video)
Features of the toilet device with installation. Recommendations for the correct installation of a wall-hung toilet. Step-by-step instruction. Photo and video.
Before starting the installation of the installation of the toilet bowl with your own hands, it is necessary to make preliminary markings on the wall and on the floor.
First, determine the vertical, which must coincide with the axis of the frame. There are three options:
- Separate bathroom without washbasin and bidet. In this case, the vertical runs along the center of the wall on which or near which the installation is installed.
- Bathroom with toilet and bidet. Both installations are lined up. And the vertical axes for each frame should pass so that they fall on the center of the selected place, taking into account the ergonomics of the bathroom. Under standard conditions, both axes should "divide" the wall into three equal parts.
- Combined bathroom. The vertical on the wall must pass through the geometric center of the selected location.
The next step is to mark the center of the drain key on the vertical. For a block system, this is the only reference point, and it is usually located at a height of 1 m above the level of the finished floor. Therefore, thickness must be taken into account:
- leveling screed;
- underfloor heating with insulation and its own screed (if provided);
- finishing layer (tile adhesive plus tiles).
At the frame installation standard height this size (1 m) is written in the diagram, and it is short, then they are guided by the mounting height of a particular model.
Further markup is carried out as follows:
- In the center of the key or the top of the frame, a horizontal line is beaten off in level and the installation width is marked on it.
- From these points beat off the vertical down. They continue on the floor parallel to each other and perpendicular to the plane of the wall.
- Mark on each line a distance greater than the installation depth indicated in the passport. The actual size must also take into account the gap from the tank to the wall of 1.5 cm, the method of laying the sewer pipe and its maximum external diameter at the articulation points. So with an installation depth of 12 cm, the minimum distance from the wall to the front surface of the installation is 13.5 cm - if the pipe "goes" under the ceiling, 15.5 cm - if the sewer pipe runs along the wall. And this is without taking into account the irregularities.
- Connect the marks - this will be the line along which the attachment points of the legs to the floor are located.
- Check the perpendicularity of this line relative to the side wall. If necessary, adjust it, making sure that the smallest distance to the wall is not less than the actual depth.
Marking on the wall for block installation is much easier, and consists only in applying attachment points to the wall. In accordance with the diagram and focusing on the recommended height of the flush button, they beat off the vertical axis on each side in a parallel line at a distance equal to half the installation width. And on these lines mark the points of attachment of the frame to the main wall.
Materials and tools
Even when buying an installation, you need to check the completeness. In addition to the frame itself, the tank, the inlet valve and the flush elbow, there must be:
- drain elbow;
- key;
- fasteners and fasteners;
- plugs for flush and drain pipes (so that debris does not get in during operation);
- gasket for mounting a wall-mounted toilet bowl (noise insulation).
In the case when do-it-yourself plumbing installation is done for the first time, it would be good to find out if the seller has spare parts for installation (if something goes wrong). All leading manufacturers produce spare parts and repair kits for installations - branch pipes, elbows, inlet and flush valves, membranes, seals and transitions. In addition, they must be in stock different kinds mounts and fasteners, which can be purchased separately.
It is also necessary to purchase a set of pipes for connecting a wall-hung toilet to the installation, silicone sealant for the joints of sewer pipes and a fum-tape for installing a stopcock on a water pipe.
To install a wall hung toilet with an installation, you will need the following tools:
- level, tape measure, ruler, building corner, pencil or marker;
- perforator and drill bits for concrete;
- hammer;
- a set of wrenches (as well as an adjustable or gas wrench);
- screwdrivers;
- pliers.
If a frame is immediately mounted from a profile for subsequent plasterboard sheathing, then another tool is needed for these works:
- metal scissors;
- drill;
- knife or hacksaw;
- screwdriver
Features of installation installation and toilet bowls
As mentioned above, there are three options for "installation and toilet" combinations.
Wall hung toilet with block design
Easiest for self installation system mounting option - installing the frame on the surface of the main wall and laying a quarter-brick wall below the structure to provide a reliable stop for the wall-hung toilet. The bond size of a single brick is 12.5 cm plus 1 cm of vertical masonry mortar joint, and the resulting 13.5 cm is just right for most models in which the installation depth lies within these limits.
Another option is to buy a block installation, which includes two special supports in the floor to "support" the bowl of the wall-hung toilet bowl. These supports are put on the fixing pins of the sanitary ware, and they do not allow the bowl to “fall through” back. These models include Geberit Kombifix (110.340.00.5). If these accessories are not included in the kit, they can be purchased separately, for example Geberit Kombifix stops (457.888.26.1) or Alcaplast mounting kit (M90).
Do-it-yourself installation of a block installation takes place according to the following algorithm:
- At the marked attachment points on the wall, holes are made with a perforator, to which the frame is screwed onto dowels.
- Dowels or anchors are driven in and the frame is screwed to them.
- Insert the tank into the frame, connect it to water pipe(a water supply tube may be included in the delivery) and to the flush elbow.
- Screw the mounting studs to secure the bowl.
- Connect the drain elbow to the sewer through the adapter pipe (from the kit or purchased separately).
Wall hung toilet with frame installation
This is the most common flush-mounted design option - it is suitable for installation near any wall or partition, regardless of its load-bearing capacity.
Installation of the installation for the toilet takes place in the following sequence:
- Holes for dowels are drilled at the marked points of attachment to the floor and wall.
- A tank with a flush mechanism and a flush knee is attached to the frame.
- Install the frame and attach the legs to the subfloor.
- Adjust it in height and horizontal level with the help of retractable support elements. Fix the structure with bolts in the required position.
- With the help of metal fasteners, the structure is fixed to the wall. These are usually studs with an adjusting head on the frame side and mounting brackets or plates on the wall side.
- Screw in the studs and lock. Install the mounting brackets in place and screw to the wall.
- Adjust the vertical position of the frame by screwing or unscrewing the studs using the head (adjustment depth up to 45 mm). Lock the position of the structure with a lock nut.
- Attach the cuff for the drain knee to the frame. A knee is installed, connected to a sewer pipe through an adapter, fixed to the frame with a clamp.
- Connect the inlet valve of the tank to the water pipe using a complete or purchased adapter.
- Attach the studs for the hanging bowl.
- Temporarily install a button and a toilet. Open the water, test the system for performance, check the tightness of connections and connections.
- If no problems are found, the button and the toilet are removed. Close the holes of both knees with plugs and proceed to the sheathing of the installation.
Note. One of the features of the installation of a frame installation is the possibility of mounting on a finished floor surface. In this case, the marking and installation is carried out without correction for the thickness of the layers of the finish coating.
Floor standing toilet with block installation
One of the low-budget options for using a block installation system is a flush-mounted cistern without a frame with a front flush plate. Moreover, this option can be used for walls made of any materials. The load from a tank with a volume of 6 liters can withstand both a half-brick wall and a frame made of metal profile or wooden beam(if the tank is attached to the frame itself or embedded elements).
The only problem that may arise during installation is the alignment of the flush hole of the floor-standing toilet bowl with the flush elbow of the tank.
Attaching the floor standing toilet to the installation
Correct installation of the floor-standing toilet for installation is possible only if the tiles on the floor have already been laid or there is an exact level of the finished surface. In this case, markings on the wall are made by choosing not the flush key as the reference point, but the center of the flush hole in the toilet. And the installation goes like this:
- Choose a place to install plumbing.
- Beat off the vertical axis on the wall. Mark on it the point of connection of the floor-standing toilet bowl to the flush knee of the tank.
- Relative to this point, the dimensions of the block installation and the attachment points are noted.
- They fix the tank (in a niche, on a wall, in a frame partition).
- Connect to a water pipe.
- Install the flush elbow.
- They make a sewer line (along the wall, in a grooved channel, inside a frame partition.
- Temporarily connect the system and the toilet. Check the operation and tightness of the system.
- Close the flush and drain pipes with plugs, the studs with tubes.
- The installation is sewn up with drywall (with holes for flushing and draining). Or close up a niche and strobes with a solution.
- Carry out the finishing of the wall.
- Connect and fix the floor toilet.
The procedure for installing a wall-hung toilet
The hanging bowl is mounted after the installation for the toilet has been installed and the finishing work has been completed. And depending on the type of installation, installation method and wall materials, there are the following options for preparing for finishing:
- install a block or frame system and sheathe the entire surface from floor to ceiling with a double layer of drywall;
- install a frame or block system and make a drywall box;
- install the frame system in the frame wall;
- install a frame or block system in a niche and or cover with a layer of plaster.
After the installation and communications are "hidden" under the rough surface of the walls and floor, they are finished with selected materials (tiles or decorative plaster). Then proceed to the installation of a hanging toilet.
Note. It is believed that the maximum benefit from the hidden installation of the tank and communications is achieved if you install the installation for the toilet in a niche.
Niche for installation
A niche in the wall for installation is made if the mounting depth of the frame, materials and wall thickness allow such work to be performed. And besides the niche in the wall, channels for the water and sewer pipes are also ditched, which, like the installation, must be mounted discreetly.
Important. For load-bearing brick walls, this method is not suitable (it is technically impossible to make a niche with your own hands for reinforced concrete walls). And if the vault of a niche can be reinforced with an insert from a metal profile (standard practice for an opening), then this option is not suitable for hidden pipe laying - the chasing of horizontal channels in a load-bearing wall is prohibited at the regulatory level.
And without horizontal strobes, it is extremely difficult to make a hidden wiring - only if the pipes approach the niche from below, and before it are laid in a screed or between a log of a wooden floor.
For a niche in the wall, there is the only option provided by the manufacturer - for a block installation with an attached toilet bowl.
In addition to this option, a bathroom niche is also used, in which there are water and sewer risers. In this case, a frame made of a metal profile is installed in a niche, and a frame installation for a wall-hung toilet is attached to it.
Installation of a frame with a tank in a niche
The complexity of this method - the installation of the frame in a niche takes place "non-standard". The installation instructions of GEBERIT and GROHE do not cover this option, and there are no fasteners for this in the kit.
The installation of the frame in a niche takes place according to the following algorithm:
- Mark on the floor the installation line of the legs, taking into account the installation depth, the location of the water and sewer risers. The marking should be perpendicular to the walls of the niche or be in the plane of the adjacent surface.
- From this line beat off the verticals on the walls of the niche.
- Reinforced UA50 profile guides are mounted on the floor, niche side walls and ceiling.
- Install the frame in the profile and fasten it to the floor, having previously drilled holes for the dowels.
- Set the height of the legs and the level of the frame horizontally.
- Fasteners (studs or other type of fastening) are made to a specific size for rigid fixing of the installation to the “far” wall of the niche. Holes are drilled for these fasteners and the frame is fixed.
- Cut off a section of the UA profile along the width of the niche. Attach it to the side profiles and frame.
- Install flush and drain valve for a wall hung toilet. Install the studs to secure the bowl. Connect the tank to the water supply, the drain elbow to the sewer. Temporarily hang the toilet and connect it to the installation. Check the system for tightness and performance.
- Remove the tank, close the flush and drain holes with plugs, and the toilet studs with protective tubes. Drywall cut to size is attached to the profiles in two layers.
Sewerage supply
The supply of water to the installation of the toilet does not cause difficulties. And with any tank connection (side or top), it is always possible to lay a half-inch rigid or flexible pipe. With a connection to the sewer, the situation is more complicated. The installation diagram shows two types of connection:
- the knee goes down at a right angle;
- the knee is rotated 45° in the plane of the frame.
Based on these options, in most cases, the connection of the installation to the sewer was built.
The first option, for example, is used for direct connection to the drain, when the frame is in the same niche with it. The second option is used when laying a drain pipe to the riser along the wall.
But there are cases when both options are not suitable due to the limited space and the peculiarity of the geometry of the bathroom - large diameter rigid pipes and fixed elbow angles prevent this from being done correctly. And in order to solve the problem of how to turn the sewer elbow from the installation and provide the required angle of inclination, for example, corrugation D 90/110 MM FLEXI from ALCAPLAST is used. But in this case, it is necessary to check the slope of the corrugations.
Connecting communications
For connection to the water supply, the installation kit includes an inlet valve with an external outlet for a ½ inch pipe and an angle shut-off valve inside the installation.
Installations of toilet bowls with a bidet function provide for the supply of an additional tube to the fitting for intimate hygiene. And to ensure a comfortable temperature, such models are also connected to the mains for heating water, which is used for washing. And for this, fasteners are provided for mounting a protective tube of electrical wiring.
How to check the system for operability
After connecting to communications, before sewing up the installation, it is necessary to check the operability and the system for leaks. To do this, carry out a preliminary installation of the toilet bowl with the installation:
- adapters with cuffs and sealing rings are inserted into the flush and drain holes of the installation;
- “put” the toilet on the studs and move it as close as possible to the installation so that the adapters fit into the toilet more tightly (you won’t be able to push it close - the nozzles have a length with a margin);
- open the shut-off valve on the inlet valve;
- when the tank is full, drain the water (for pneumatics, you need to connect the button and the flush valve with tubes, for mechanics, activate the flush valve rod by hand).
After checking and fixing possible faults the toilet bowl, adapter pipes and the button are removed.
How to install a wall hung toilet for installation
Even when choosing a place and marking, it is envisaged that the height of the hanging toilet from the floor without a lid is 40 cm. But if after laying the tiles it turns out that it will hang 2 cm higher or lower, this is acceptable.
The wall-mounted toilet bowl is fastened to the studs after adjusting the size of the adapter pipes for connecting the drain and flush of the toilet bowl to the installation:
- Remove protective caps and tubes.
- Insert the adapters into the knees and mark the level "0" on them - the plane of the surface of the installation cladding.
- Then the adapters are inserted with the other side into the toilet bowl (the sealing cuff is put on the flush). Mark the level "0" on the toilet.
- Shorten the adapters by the difference between the two marks.
They put a gasket on the studs (it serves to protect the finish and dampens structural noise during the drain) and proceed to install the wall-hung toilet on the installation:
- Insert rubber bushings into the holes for mounting the hanging toilet bowl.
- Insert adapter pipes into the drain and flush holes of the bowl.
- They put the wall-mounted toilet on the studs so that the adapter pipes fit exactly into their holes on the installation, and the bowl fits snugly against the wall.
- Elastic washers, steel washers are put on the studs and nuts are screwed.
- Before you finally tighten the fasteners, you can slightly adjust the level on the horizon relative to the height of the toilet from the floor.
Mounting the flush button
According to the principle of operation, the toilet flush button is of two types: mechanical and pneumatic.
Even at the installation assembly stage, a flush valve is installed. Each company has its own design, but the principle of operation is general:
- a mechanical button actuates the flush with a pull, separate for each key - economy mode and full flush;
- at the pneumatic flush, two tubes go from the valve to the button - for each mode it has its own.
Installation of the drain button begins with its attachment to the flush valve. For a mechanical drive, the traction (pins) must be “adjusted” in length and each connected to its own key, and for pneumatics, connect the tubes.
The button is then "latched" into the socket.
Common Difficulties
The main problems arise due to the limited size of most bathrooms. This is especially true for strictly housing stock, when poor geometry of the room is added to the small “sizes” - the absence of right angles and parallels at the enclosing surfaces. In this case, even the slope of the wall is checked before installation. And the alignment of the walls further reduces the opportunity for "manoeuvre" when installing the installation under the toilet.
Helps avoid mistakes and rework right choice the type and model of the installation, as well as the accuracy of the layout, frame location and compliance with the installation scheme.
And the main condition is the accuracy of handling mechanisms and sanitary ware. Even "tightening" the fasteners of the inlet and outlet valves or the hinged bowl can lead to a violation of the tightness of the connections or damage to the device itself.
What is important to know. It is necessary to buy installation and plumbing of reputable brands. It is better to do this at dealers or trading companies that have appropriate agreements with service centers and give a guarantee for the purchased goods. In addition, if necessary, you can buy additional accessories or a repair kit for the selected installation model from such sellers.
