Toilet      06/13/2019

Caring for monstera at home, photo of the plant. Monstera home care for tropical liana

The tropical evergreen plant Monstera (Monstera) or philodendron belongs to the Araceae family. The monstera's homeland is equatorial America; in the 19th century, the vine was brought to Southeast Asia, where it successfully took root. There are fifty species of this plant in the world.

Thanks to large carved leaves, up to half a meter long and unpretentious home grown, Monstera holds the leading position in popularity among indoor flowers.

Description

In the wild, monstera can grow up to ten meters, clinging to large trees, rocks. At indoor growing, the flower reaches 2 - 4 m in height, and it requires reliable support.

Long aerial roots grow on the stem, reminiscent of the tentacles of an ancient monster. The eerie appearance of the plant doomed it to a silent name - monstera (monster), and many myths and legends were associated with the flower.

Shiny dark green leathery leaves sit on long petioles. They are covered with oblong slits. Often, drops of moisture appear on the leaf plate, which makes the plant seem to be “crying.”

Monstera blooms with inconspicuous grayish flowers collected in an inflorescence - a thick spadix surrounded by a creamy blanket.

Monstera Attractive (Delicacy) has gained great popularity in indoor floriculture. The plant grows up to 200 cm in height, has large leaves with holes, heart-shaped.

On a note. Fruits with Monstera Deliciosa seeds set and ripen at home extremely rarely. But, if this happens, they can be eaten. They taste like pineapple.

Below are photos of the flower, different varieties of monstera.

Types of monstera for growing in pots:

Location

To accommodate indoor flower, choose a spacious and bright room, because Monstera needs good lighting and sufficient ceiling height for upward growth.

The flower does not withstand direct rays of the sun; delicate foliage receives serious sunburn. But you shouldn’t keep a tropical liana in the shade either. A good place to install a tub with a flower - not far from the eastern or western windows, ideally - in a spacious and bright hall, winter garden. Often the flower is placed in the dining room or kitchen, as its positive effect on air purification has been proven.

Comfortable ambient temperature for the vine is about +18 degrees. An increase in temperature to 24 and above leads to the active growth of monstera, which is undesirable at home.

The soil

Monstera prefers to grow in loose and fertile soil. The composition of the mixture should include: 1 part each of coarse sand (vermiculite), peat, humus and 3 parts of good turf soil.

The flower needs large volumes of soil. Young plants are placed in 8 - 10 liters of soil; after 4 years, the flower requires about 30 liters of soil. A layer of expanded clay or broken bricks as drainage. The presence of drain holes in the bottom of the pot is necessary.

Care

Among indoor plants, brought from the tropics, monstera is known for its love of moisture. In the spring-summer period, it is necessary to water the flower often and abundantly, but without allowing moisture to stagnate in the pan. Water for the plant should be room temperature, not hard. At home tap water settle or filter. Watering with rain or melt water has a good effect. In the cold season, monstera is watered less often, once a week is enough.

The wide leaves of the plant must be regularly wiped from dust with a damp sponge or cloth. It is useful to spray the whole plant warm water. When it works central heating and the air in the apartment becomes too dry, wide containers filled with water are placed near the plant. A small decorative fountain looks aesthetically pleasing.

A large plant needs strong support. A decorative but strong lattice or trellis is attached to a pot or wall near the flower tub.

An adult monstera is fed twice a month in the spring-summer season. Organic fertilizers(a solution of chicken manure or mullein in low concentration) alternate with mineral complexes.

When the plant reaches the height required by the grower, the top of the flower can be cut off. This operation will give impetus to the development of side branches, the monstera will become more magnificent.

Important! The aerial roots of Monstera cannot be cut off! They are either lowered into flower pot in order for the plant to receive additional nutrition, they are either dipped in jars of water suspended on the branches. Sometimes the roots are immersed in small plastic tubes filled with a mixture of peat and turf soil. The tubes are stuck into the pot.

Young plants, up to 4 summer age, transplanted into new large containers annually. Adult specimens are only changed upper layer soil onto fresh soil.

Under ideal conditions, starting from the age of two, monstera can bloom. Its inflorescences are similar to calla lilies, only much larger. After flowering, many small fruits filled with seeds ripen on the cob.


Pests, diseases

Despite the unpretentiousness of the plant, the gardener needs to know what problems he may encounter when growing monstera. The flower can be affected by pests such as, mealybug. As a rule, too dry indoor air contributes to the spread of pests.

Pests are controlled by using a cool shower, wiping the leaves and branches with a sponge dipped in a soap solution, tincture of garlic or tobacco. If the pest multiplies strongly, use Actellik (2 ml per liter), Fitoverm, Decis, Inta-Vir.

Important! Spraying a plant chemicals, it is necessary to take care of protection by working in a respirator and gloves. It is better to cover the flower with a piece of film so that the poison does not enter the air in the room.

Often a gardener notices that monstera leaves turn yellow and dry out. There may be several reasons for this:

  • excess moisture in the soil at low air temperatures (too frequent watering in winter time);
  • lack of moisture and too dry air;
  • the leaf has received sunburn (as a rule, these are local yellowed and drying spots).

Correct the situation by eliminating the causes of the disease. At the same time, drying and falling off of the old lower foliage - natural process, if the foliage does not dry out en masse.


Reproduction

The plant can be propagated using seeds and vegetatively. Monstera seeds are sown in loose and fertile soil (sand, peat, humus), only lightly sprinkled with soil. Pots with crops are left at +25 degrees in a bright room. Shoots will appear in a month.

The seedlings are cared for in the standard way: watered, loosened the soil, protected from drafts, and replanted.

On a note. The first leaves of Monstera are not dissected. Real, holey leaves characteristic of the plant will appear only by the 5th month of the flower’s life.

In spring (until June), monstera can be propagated:

  1. side branches with leaves;
  2. the top of the stem remaining from trimming the flower;
  3. cuttings (part of a stem with a pair of leaves).

Cuts of monstera branches are sprinkled with crushed charcoal and dried a little in air. The cuttings are planted in separate pots with light soil (peat and humus + sand), covered with plastic bottles, glass jars or a simple transparent bag.

The plants are ventilated and watered daily. They are kept in diffused light and at a temperature of +22 +24 degrees. When the seedlings take root, the monstera is transplanted into another container with richer soil (the proportion of humus increases).


Partners

The eerie appearance of the monstera has long deterred flower lovers from placing the plant in residential premises. Monstera was housed in greenhouses, winter gardens, hospitals and offices. There are quite a few superstitions about the supposedly heavy energy of the plant. Monstera is called a flower - an energy vampire. Cacti, ivy, and ficus also found themselves in the same company. It was believed that these flowers, being in the bedroom or other rooms, provoke quarrels in the family.

Fortunately, in the modern world, everything remains to superstitions less space. Monstera is confidently becoming one of the most indoor plants. A large, bright green plant purifies indoor air or microorganisms; the sight of large, spreading foliage is calming.

Monstera pots are placed on the floor or low stands, always providing support for the winding stem. The flower looks impressive against the background of a light wall, in a room with a minimalist design.

Monstera can be included in a composition from tropical plants With different texture foliage: large ficus trees. The main thing is to match the size of the partners; a giant monstera will visually “crush” delicate orchids or small-leaved ivy.

Watch also the video

One of the most beautiful indoor vines is Monstera. Caring for this plant at home requires knowledge about the characteristics of its growth. Its homeland is South America. Today the vine is common in tropical rainforests around the world. Its leaves are striking carved pattern, dotted with beautiful holes and slits.

There are many species of this plant from the araceae family. But a familiar species in indoor floriculture is the delicious monstera, or attractive monstera (lat. Monstera deliciosa).

Monstera in nature reaches several meters in length (height). In a greenhouse or in a large, bright house, it can also grow to this size. The vigor and vitality of the vine are amazing.

Its almost half-meter leaves are leathery and shiny, the holes in them form fancy patterns. There are different points of view on why vines have holey leaves. Most likely, the holes in the leaves reduce the sunlit surface of the Monstera leaf. Young plants have solid leaves, similar to philodendron leaves. Only the mature leaves appear in all their carved and perforated glory.

Monstera is shade-tolerant, like all tropical vines. It will be content with diffused lighting, but will grow poorly in a completely dark corner. With its aerial roots, the vine clings to supports in order to grow vertically, and feeds by lowering them into the ground.

IN room conditions The liana blooms very rarely. Monstera flower is a spadix with a white or cream veil. The monstera fruit ripens within 14 months. All this time, the plant should receive uniform lighting and adequate nutrition. The fruit looks most like a large ear of corn or an elongated pineapple. It also tastes like pineapple, banana and mango together. An unripe fruit can cause a burn to the mucous membrane.

How to grow a beautiful and healthy monstera


How to propagate monstera

Reproduction of monstera at home is not difficult. This can be done in three ways:

  1. At the base of an adult monstera, “babies” grow. You need to wait until the aerial roots reach 1 cm, and you can carefully separate the plants from the mother. They need to be planted in small pots so that the roots quickly take over the entire soil. Small monsteras grow quite quickly and need frequent replanting.
  2. Another method of reproduction is used when the monstera does not produce offspring at the base. The stem of this vine tends to stretch. Over time, the plant loses its decorative effect, the lower leaves dry out, and the stem becomes bare. To rejuvenate the plant and propagate it, you need to cut the monstera stem into several parts. The stem segment must have at least 2 internodes. Over time, young leaves will appear from the top.
  3. The last method is propagation by air layering. To do this, you need to take a plastic bag and secure it to the bare trunk of the monstera below the internode. You need to pour suitable moist soil (peat, coco soil, light leaf humus) into the bag. Secure the package above the internode. Within a month, roots will appear in the bag. You can wait until they reach the desired length (at least 1-2 cm) and cut the plant below the bag. Carefully remove the bag and plant the plant in the ground. Survival is guaranteed. There is no need to throw away the “stump” of an old monstera left in the ground. A young strong shoot will quickly grow from it, feeding from the old developed roots.

Difficulties in growing monstera at home

  • As monsteras age, the lower leaves fall off. If several leaves have fallen at once, then the conditions of maintenance have been violated. This can happen when the air temperature is high and dry in winter.
  • If brown or yellow spots appear on the leaves, and the leaves themselves turn pale, this is sunburn. Such a sheet will remain damaged forever. Move the plant away from the light.
  • If the leaves turn yellow, wither and even rot, then the plant is overwatered. Ambulance in this case, remove the earthen lump from the pot and place it on a stack of newspapers so that they absorb excess moisture. You can replant it in fresh soil and not water it for about a week.
  • If the top leaves grow small and pale, the plant is not getting enough light.
  • If there are no holes or slits in adult leaves, there may be many reasons: lack of light, moisture or nutrition, low air temperature. You can help the plant by providing its additional roots with food, directing them to a support or into the ground in a pot.
  • Brown dry edges of leaves occur from dry air or when the pot is cramped.
  • Leaves “cry” when the soil is waterlogged. But sometimes this happens before rain and is associated with changes in atmospheric pressure.
  • Stems can rot at low temperatures and excess moisture. It is necessary to increase the temperature and limit watering. It is useful to treat the plant with a fungicide (a remedy for fungal diseases).
  • Among the pests, Monstera can be affected by spider mites or scale insects. From spider mite Brown dots appear on the leaves, and from the scale insects tubercles and sticky discharge appear on the stems and leaves. Actofite, Actellik, Fitoverm will help against these pests.
  • The liana cannot be kept in a house where there are small animals or children, because its leaves contain crystals of oxalic acid, which cause burns to the mucous membranes.

At the dawn of my flower-growing youth, I had a desire to urgently get myself many, many large, very large plants, so that everyone could immediately see how much I love plants. Of the large, very large ones, only ficus, hibiscus and almost accessible palm trees were available.

Only after some time, through trial and error, did I come to the conclusion that it is not at all necessary to start right away with a large and complex plant. It is quite possible to take a small cutting of an unpretentious plant and grow your own indoor monster from it.

Try it yourself, and very soon you will run out of room in your apartment.

The genus Monstera belongs to the family aroid, including approximately 110 genera and more than 1,800 species, distributed mainly in tropical and subtropical regions of both hemispheres.

About 50 species of Monstera deliciosa are known. The homeland of this plant is Central America. Monstera grows in tropical forests; this vine wraps around the trunk of its host tree and forms powerful aerial roots.

In a room where there is never sun, you will never see large luxurious leaves with many holes, and the leaf blade may be completely solid, so the best option– place the monstera in a bright place without straight lines sun rays. In summer, the optimal temperature is not lower than +21°C, and during the rest period, from October to March, it is slightly cooler (+16 – +19°C, but not lower than +15°C).

Monstera is a child of tropical rain forests and requires you to maintain high humidity around it. Spray, bathe, water. The soil should be constantly moist, but not wet.

In the tropics, some of the aroids are used in economic purposes. The culture of the vegetable plant taro has been known to the peoples of Southeast Asia and West Africa for several thousand years. Flour and alcohol are obtained from the tubers; after heat treatment, boiled and fried, they are used as food, just like potatoes. Within the limits of their distribution, Monstera Adanson and Monstera dubious are used by the local population as medicinal. And in its homeland, Monstera dainty is cultivated not for its decorative qualities, but to produce tasty, fragrant, juicy fruits that taste like pineapple.

From April to August, flower fertilizers are applied once every one to two weeks, and the rest of the time they are not fed.

To choose the right first flower pot, you need to decide what to replant: a young rooted stem cutting or a medium-sized plant purchased on sale?

The stem cutting is placed in a flower pot with a capacity of approximately 3-4 liters. Of the ready-made soil mixtures, Palma soil mixture is the best choice. Good drainage is a must. The transplanted stem cutting grows and turns into a pretty monstera in three to four years, and sometimes earlier.

According to some literary data, the name of the genus “Monstera” comes from the Latin monstrotus, i.e. amazing, weird. According to other sources - from the Latin monstrum - monster, and is probably associated with the appearance created by large plants - huge plants, completely intertwining 30-40-meter trees with their shoots. If you look closely at the appearance of an adult plant, you can say: “An amazing monster.”

Second option. If you purchased a Dutch monstera on a moss tube, then you should not rush to replant, especially if the purchase did not occur in the spring-summer period. For the first time proper watering and there is enough feeding.

Do not make the following mistake based on information from some publications: Monstera requires annual replanting. Indeed, most aroids are fine with frequent replanting, but for delicate aerial roots and fragile stems frequent transplantation– stress.

So, if a plant is grown from a small stem cutting, then one intermediate transplant into a flower container “for growth” is necessary and a second is final. Mature plant(with at least five to six leaves) are placed immediately in a large flower tub with a tray.

It turns out that Monstera improves the microclimate of the room and enriches it with oxygen, ozone, and air ions. Humidifies the air very well. In addition, Monstera absorbs formaldehyde, a colorless gas contained in chipboard, polystyrene foam, etc. It has a beneficial effect on people with nervous system disorders, relieves headaches and heart rhythm disturbances. It’s good to have a Monstera where the situation is extremely chaotic. It absorbs the vibrations of disorder.

In addition to spraying, an adult monstera plant needs to regularly wash the leaves with warm boiled water. If you neglect this procedure, then troubles cannot be avoided: dusty, unkempt leaves are a favorite target of pests. With age, the lower leaves lose their former attractiveness and should be removed.

If you cut off the top of the shoot for rooting, then do not immediately expect “perforated” leaves. The first leaf after cutting will always have a whole leaf blade.

In the 6-7th year of cultivation, provided there is good light, humidity, additional nutrition in the form of regularly applied fertilizer and, finally, a large planting capacity, your monstera will be able to bloom, contrary to the established belief that monstera does not bloom outside of greenhouses and conservatories.

Problems and difficulties encountered when growing monstera

The leaves are "crying".

The reason is the soil is too wet. Let the soil dry out and increase the intervals between waterings.

The stems rot.

The cause is stem rot. Typically, this disease manifests itself in winter, when conditions of excess moisture and low temperatures create favorable conditions for the propagation of the fungus. Repot the plant in another pot, raise the room temperature and limit watering.

The leaves are turning yellow.

If a lot of leaves have turned yellow, which also rot and wither, then the most likely reason is waterlogging of the soil. If there are no signs of rotting or withering, then possible reason– lack of nutrition. If only the lower leaves turn yellow, pay attention to whether there are brown spots on them and what the new leaves look like - if they are small and dark, then this is a sign of lack of moisture. Pale leaves with yellow spots indicate excess sunlight.

Falling leaves.

The lower leaves always fall off as they age. If several leaves suddenly die off at once, the cause may be a serious error in care. Check the condition of the upper leaves. If the leaves become dry and brown before falling, then the reason is too high temperature air. This is a common problem in winter when plants are placed too close to radiators.

The trunk is bare below, small pale leaves.

The reason is that the plant does not have enough light. Monstera does not grow in deep shade.

Brown spots on the underside of the leaf.

The cause is the red spider mite.

Brown, papery tips of lobes and edges of leaves.

The reason is dry air. Spray the leaves or place the pot in damp peat. Similar symptoms may appear if the potty is too tight. Brown tops are an indicator of waterlogging of the soil, but in this case the leaves also turn yellow.

There is no amateur gardener who has not at some point dreamed of growing a luxurious monstera. Another question is that not everyone can afford this for reasons of further placement of an adult plant, because the climbing stem exceeds 6 m, and the diameter of the leaf blade reaches 60 – 100 cm.

A favorite of designers in arranging exquisite bouquets. Charming, unique, beautiful! And this is all about her - the beautiful monster.

Photos for this article provided by users

Monstera is a large tropical vine of the Araceae family. In the wild, it is found in tropical rainforests and the equatorial belt of America. Monstera also grows in southeast Asia, where it was introduced in the 19th century. In nature, the plant wraps its flexible stems around giant trees and has carved unusual shape leaves that resemble the palms of unprecedented creatures hiding behind the trunks.

More about the flower

There are several options for the origin of the plant's name. Some believe that it means a monster (from monstrum), while others believe that it means amazing and beautiful (from monstrosus). Flower growers highly value the decorative and unpretentiousness of Monstera, as well as the fact that the plant is long-lived. If it is provided with the right maintenance, it can live up to a hundred years.

Flower care

An indoor representative of a tropical liana does not require the creation of any special conditions, special care activities. Its unpretentiousness has made Monstera an ideal choice for those gardeners who cannot always care for their flowers on a daily basis.

Lighting

Monstera feels most comfortable in a well-lit place. It is recommended to place the flowerpot close to the window, but not under bright direct sun, which can burn the green mass. Often the vine is placed in dark corners, but this leads to shredding and loss of spectacular ruggedness by the leaves, and the absence of new shoots.
For monstera there is no fundamental difference between natural and artificial lighting. The plant can be grown indoors where the sun does not penetrate. At a distance of 0.4-0.6 m from the vine, LED or fluorescent lamps, providing a day length of 12 hours.

Temperature

During the dormant period, Monstera provides moderate temperature regime, equal from +10 to +20 degrees. These conditions allow the plant to favorably tolerate the lack of light during the winter months. From spring until autumn, the temperature is raised to +25 degrees so that the flower awakens.

Humidity

The tropical liana does not tolerate drought well, but does not require excessive air humidification. It is enough to maintain the humidity level no lower than 60%. To achieve this, aerial roots are regularly sprayed. This procedure is much more beneficial for monstera than installing a humidifier. If the air is too dry, the (aerial) roots sink into water-filled vessels. The leaves are periodically wiped with a damp cloth.

Watering

The plant needs abundant watering. Its frequency is determined by the state of the upper layer of the substrate. When it dries 5-7 cm, watering is carried out. You cannot fill Monstera. Stagnation of moisture in the soil leads to the development of fungal infections that affect the stem.
Poor and infrequent watering is also dangerous, as it provokes shredding, loss of turgor, and the formation of yellowish-brown spots on the green mass. Water should not be taken as hard. Otherwise, the plant will stop growing and the leaves will become deformed.

Priming

Tropical liana requires loose, fertile neutral or slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.5-6.0. Among the ready-made nutritional mixtures sold in stores, the substrate is suitable for Aroids. You can prepare the soil yourself from leaf soil, sand, peat, humus, taken in a ratio of 1:1:1, to which three parts of turf soil are added. Sand can be replaced with perlite or vermiculite. A drainage layer must be placed at the bottom of the container.

Circumcision

In early spring, monstera is renewed to stimulate the growth of new shoots. The top is cut off at a distance of 1-2 cm from the vine node. The cut area is sprinkled with powdered charcoal. If the cutting is planned to be rooted, at least 3 nodes are left, and pruning is carried out at an acute angle.

Top dressing

During the dormant period, which occurs in the winter months, the flower is not fertilized. The rest of the time, soil enrichment with mineral complexes is carried out twice a month. The fertilizer is prepared by dissolving 2 grams of the substance in 1 liter of water.

Transfer

The container in which indoor monstera grows is changed depending on the age of the flower. Young specimens are replanted every spring, and three- and four-year-old adults no more than once every 3 or 4 years. Be sure to add some fresh substrate.

Reproduction

Indoor monstera is propagated by seeds and vegetatively. The first method is used quite rarely due to the low percentage of germination, but it is suitable for breeding a new variety. The seeds must be fresh. If they dry out, they will not sprout. Sprout planting material on sphagnum, which is covered with 5% plastic bags. Optimal temperature for germination is from 25 to 28 degrees. After 1-2 months, the seedlings are planted in a substrate of sand, leaf and turf soil (1:1:1).
It is much easier to propagate monstera with side shoots. The cuttings are separated in the spring during pruning and planted in a container where drainage, peat or humus, and coarse sand are laid out in layers. Rooting of the shoot occurs at a temperature of 20-25 degrees. The planting is kept in greenhouse conditions, covered glass jar or transparent polyethylene. So that young shoots adapt to environment, carry out periodic ventilation. If rooting is successful, new shoots appear.
You can grow a new specimen from aerial roots, which are wrapped in moistened sphagnum and a cloth, constantly moistened or dipped in a container of water. When small roots appear, the top is cut off and planted in a separate container or next to mother plant. Alternative option is rooting in water with a dissolved activated carbon tablet. The fluid is changed once a week.

Monstera diseases and pests

Diseases

Monstera is often affected by bacterial and fungal diseases:


Treatment against rot and spotting is carried out with a solution copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. Other ailments are treated antifungal drugs until the disease subsides, but first get rid of the damaged parts.

Pests

The natural enemies of the indoor monstera, regardless of the variety, are:

  • thrips;
  • spider mite;
  • scale insect;
  • mealybug.

Infestation by mites, scale insects, and scale insects leads to yellowing and falling off of the green mass. Pests are removed by daily wiping the stems and leaves with a sponge soaked in a soapy solution and periodically spraying with Actellik.
With thrips, whose colonies are favored reverse side leaves, it is much more difficult to fight. It is necessary not only to spray the indoor monstera with an insecticide every day, but also to lower the temperature while simultaneously increasing the air humidity.

Monstera varieties for home growing

Among the indoor varieties, the most popular are the following monsters:


There is no difference in care and maintenance between individual varieties of monstera. You can grow several different representatives of tropical vines at once.

Questions and answers

  1. How to get monstera to bloom?
    Not all types of tropical vines bloom indoors. Annually, if provided proper care, the delicacy is blooming. It forms an ear with small flowers. Oblique monstera does not bloom in a closed space. Fruits with seeds even flowering varieties are formed only in greenhouses.
  2. What to do if the leaves start to dry out?
    Massive drying of green mass indicates insufficiently nutritious soil, if it has not been waterlogged, or high dryness in the room. Often the problem is caused by drafts and too small a container.
  3. Does the monstera have rotten roots?
    You cannot leave such a plant in the same flowerpot. It is removed, the rotten parts are removed, the cuts are sprinkled with charcoal, and the crop is transplanted into a new container. The pot is taken in such a way that there is 3 cm from the roots to the walls, but no more. For the first three days, the monstera is not watered.

Monstera - large evergreen family Araceae. Its natural habitat is Central and South America, and is found in Asia. Translated, the name of the plant means “whimsical.” This is a vine with a thick climbing stem, which is covered with aerial roots.

The height of the plant reaches 5 m. Large leaf plates are attached to long petioles. The young leaves are whole, then holes and slits appear on them, and they become dissected into several lobes. The inflorescence is a spadix surrounded by a spathe.

Is it possible to keep Monstera at home?

Why you can: useful properties and signs

  • Thanks to its large leaves, the monstera plant actively produces oxygen, evaporates moisture, thereby improving the microclimate in the room.
  • The monstera flower actively purifies the air (absorbs electromagnetic radiation and formaldehyde evaporation).
  • Monstera is recommended to be placed in offices, classrooms, and libraries. This is due to the fact that the energy of the plant has a beneficial effect on nervous system: puts thoughts in order, harmonizes the state of mind, helps to concentrate, promotes making informed decisions.
  • The plant also has a general strengthening effect on the body.

Why not

Monstera should not be placed in the bedroom, since photosynthesis occurs at night (oxygen is actively absorbed, which is unfavorable for a sleeping person).

How to care for monstera at home

The plant is unpretentious in care, you just need to create optimal conditions for its development.

Where to put it in the apartment

  • Monstera does not like to be moved from place to place, so it is advisable to immediately choose a suitable location.
  • Direct sunlight will leave burns on the leaves.
  • It grows poorly in deep shade and may die.
  • Provide sufficiently bright but diffuse lighting, perhaps only light shading.

Air temperature

The plant is comfortable with a temperature range of 16-24 °C, and the vine can easily tolerate sudden changes. If the temperature is low, the growth rate slows down.

Watering and spraying

In the warm season, intensely and regularly. With the onset of cold weather, you should water moderately, avoiding drying out the earthen clod.

Spray monstera regularly. Periodically wipe the sheet plates with a damp cloth. soft cloth or a sponge.

Monstera in winter

  • It is advisable for the plant to ensure that the temperature is reduced to 14-18°C.
  • Drafts (open windows) are not allowed.
  • We reduce watering so that the soil has time to dry out a little.
  • We stop spraying; it is better to place a container with damp moss or a humidifier nearby, and wipe the leaves with a damp sponge.
  • Feeding is stopped.

Top dressing

During the period March-August, apply complex mineral fertilizers for decorative deciduous plants. Adult vines can be fed with organic matter: once a season, cover the surface of the soil with humus or pour in infusion of fermented mullein in a concentration of 1:20.

What to do with aerial roots

Aerial roots are involved in additional nutrition and hydration. They don't look very attractive. They should be collected, tied to the trunk, wrapped in moss. When watering, moisten the moss - this will only benefit the vine.

Video about monstera and caring for it:

How to prune and replant monstera

With age, the vine becomes longer and leaves fall off the lower part of the trunk. The plant requires. It is necessary in the spring to completely cut off the top part, leaving about 30 cm. After some time, young shoots will appear. The top can be used for propagation: lower it into water, and when the roots grow (preferably, they completely fill the container), plant it in the soil.

  • Replant young plants (up to the age of 4 years) annually, then replanting is required approximately once every 2-3 years.
  • Increase the size of the pot each time you repot. The root system is powerful and requires space. Choose a deep, wide pot.
  • The thickness of the drainage layer should be 1/3 of the container.

For planting, you can use a universal substrate, a mixture for palm trees, or prepare a soil mixture: turf and humus soil, peat, sand in equal proportions.

Why do monstera leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off?

The wrong one has a negative impact on appearance plants:

  • Leaves dry out due to lack of moisture or nutrients.
  • If the soil is waterlogged, the leaves begin to turn yellow, and the roots rot, an emergency replanting is necessary.
  • The trunk of a young plant becomes bare, growth rates slow down - the lighting is insufficient.
  • The edges of the leaf blades turn brown - the air is too dry or the root system is cramped in the pot.
  • When exposed to direct sunlight, the leaves become covered with yellow spots.
  • The leaf blades remain intact - the plant does not have enough light or nutrients.
  • Due to increased air temperature, the leaves turn yellow and fall off (not to be confused with the natural gradual fall of leaves from the lower part of the trunk).

Why do monstera leaves turn black?

Monstera due to stagnation of moisture in the pot, which can be caused by insufficient drainage and/or excessively frequent, abundant watering. The root system begins to rot, and the rot spreads to the entire plant.

An emergency replanting with soil replacement and fungicide treatment is required. Free the roots of the plant from the soil, cut off the rotten ones, and plant them in a disinfected pot with fresh soil. Do not forget to lay a drainage layer of small pebbles on one third of the pot. After transplanting, pour phytosporin solution and treat the leaves with it.

Pests

  1. Thrips (the surface of the leaf blades is covered with white specks, and small insects can be found on the reverse side);
  2. Scale insects (leaf blades dry out, fall off, and brownish plaques can be found on their surface – the pests themselves);
  3. Spider mite (leaves become limp, small cobwebs can be found on their surface);
  4. Mealybug (leaves, young shoots bend, dry out, fall off).

First of all, it is necessary to remove pests mechanically. Dampen a cotton pad or sponge soap solution, wipe the leaves. Then treat with an insecticide.

How to propagate monstera at home

How does monstera reproduce? This plant is sometimes propagated by seeds, but mainly vegetatively.

Growing monstera from seeds

  • To sow seeds, fill the container with light, water- and breathable soil.
  • Plant the seeds shallowly, at a distance of 4-5 cm, moisten the crops, cover with transparent glass or film.
  • Maintain the air temperature at 25 °C.
  • Ventilate the greenhouse regularly and moisten the soil.
  • Shoots will appear in about a month.

  • Plant the grown seedlings in separate pots.
  • At first there will be only juvenile, undissected leaves; after 5-8 months of growth, real dissected leaf blades will appear.

Propagation of monstera by cuttings

  • Can be propagated by apical and stem cuttings.
  • Do this in spring time.
  • The cutting must contain one node and at least one mature leaf, preferably an aerial root primordium.
  • Make the upper cut above the kidney, it should be straight, the lower cut should be oblique.
  • Root into the soil. The unit should be immersed halfway in the ground.
  • Cover with a jar or plastic bottle, water through the tray.
  • With the appearance of young shoots, they can be replanted separately.

Reproduction by lateral shoots and rhizome division

Appear at the bottom of the stem lateral processes– root them in spring. The shoot must have aerial roots and leaves. They can be planted immediately in separate pots.

When transplanting adult plants, the rhizomes can be divided. Each division must contain part of a rhizome, a full-fledged leaf rosette or a growth bud. Place in separate containers.

Types of monstera with photos and names

Monstera Adansonii monstera adansonii variety swiss cheese vine photo

It can reach a height of about 8 m. The length of the leaf plate is 20-55 cm, width - 15-40 cm. They are ovoid in shape, covered with holes. Flowering: spadix surrounded by a yellowish veil.

Monstera Borsiga monstera borsigiana

The cyst plates are heart-shaped, evenly incised, and painted dark green.

Monstera pierced or full of holes Monstera pertusa

The length of the leaf plates can reach 1 m, they are dotted with holes of various shapes.

Monstera deliciosa or attractive Monstera deliciosa

The leaf blades are heart-shaped, pinnately dissected, and covered with holes. The peculiarity is that this species bears fruit. After flowering, a soft berry appears that tastes like pineapple. Fruit ripening lasts about 10 months (at home).

Monstera oblique or unequal-sided Monstera Obliqua

Climbing liana. The ellipsoidal leaf plates are covered with large oblong-shaped holes, the edges are solid. The halves of the leaf are slightly different in size: one is larger than the other, which is where the name comes from.

Monstera Karvinskyi Monstera karvinskyi

The height of the plant reaches 3 m. The young leaves are whole, then they are cut into blades, and holes appear on them.

Monstera acuminata

The leaf blades are solid with pointed tips; over time, holes appear in them.