Manufacturers are starting to produce an increasing number of household appliances with the ability to work offline, when alternative, renewable energy sources are used to power the devices.
One of these devices are fans operating on solar battery.
Operating principle
The main elements included in the fan kit are no different from a conventional device, the only difference is in the energy source used by the solar battery and the fact that, as a rule, this is a low-power device, which is determined by the ability of the solar battery to generate a certain amount of electrical energy.
The electric current used to power the device is obtained by converting solar energy inside the photocells, which are the basis of the solar battery.
The transformation takes place inside the plates, which are made of silicon. The composition of the photocell includes two plates (two layers), each of which is made with the addition of various components. So, phosphorus is added to the upper plate (layer P + in the diagram), boron is added to the lower plate (layer B- in the diagram). Electrodes are connected to each of the plates, an external electrode is connected to the upper one, an internal electrode is connected to the lower one, an anti-reflective coating is applied to the surface of the photocell.
Under influence sunlight, an excess of negatively charged particles is formed in the upper plate, and the so-called "holes" are formed in the lower plate. At the same time, a potential difference is formed between the layers, under the influence of which, when a load is connected, an electric current flows in the circuit, due to the fact that differently charged particles move in opposite directions.
Negatively charged ones move up, positively charged ones move down.
Electronic circuits that are the main integral part any electronic devices that operate on the generated voltage and generated current, which allows you to provide power to the mechanisms of household appliances connected to them.
Structurally, depending on the purpose and specifications, solar powered fans can be very different.
The solar battery can be built into the housing or be made of a remote design. The design of the case and the material from which it is made are also chosen by the manufacturer, depending on the requirements for specific model and its technical parameters.
For greenhouse
Every gardener knows that it is not enough just to open the doors of the greenhouse in order to create the necessary microclimate inside it. For creating forced circulation The air inside such shelters is used by fans, and one of the most convenient in terms of operation is solar-powered fans.
The main plus of a fan with solar panels, when using it on personal plot, is that there is no need to install additional electrical networks, in addition, there are no costs for consumed electrical energy, which is also important when growing your own vegetables and fruits.
As circulation fans, in greenhouses, the devices of the TMS series made in Taiwan, listed above, can be used. The solar battery, for these models, is built into the body of the device, which operates only in the daytime, in the presence of sunlight, at night - the device is turned off. The performance of the model is 0.32 m3 per minute. The cost, in retail chains - from 3500.00 rubles.
When it is necessary to move significant volumes of air masses, more powerful units are used, in which the solar panel is made of a remote design, which allows to increase its power, and, accordingly, the power and performance of the fan.
Working mode this machine similar to the above, in the presence of lighting - work, in the absence - standby mode. Performance similar models above, the cost is from 15,000.00 rubles.
For cars
For car owners, fans are also available that can run on solar power. These are low power fans that are placed under the windshield of the car and serve to create additional circulation inside the cabin air.
The appearance of such devices can vary from the classic type of a fan to the avant-garde forms inherent in the author's works of developers and designers.
The advantage of this type of fan is that it is possible to ventilate the car interior with the engine turned off, while the energy of the car battery will not be used, which will save its charge.
For a cap
An interesting invention was proposed by Chinese developers, they made a fan for a cap that runs on solar energy.
At first glance, it may seem that this development is not for permanent use, but due to the relatively low cost and the ability to create an individual microclimate and comfort for the owner, this invention is already widely used by tourists in different countries peace.
The cap serves to protect from the sun, and the fan provides airflow in the presence of direct sunlight. Price similar products- from 500.00 rubles.
How to DIY
In order to make a fan powered by a solar battery, it is enough to have any fan running on constant voltage 12.0 V (automobile or similar) and a low power solar panel.
By combining the existing elements in electrical network, you can get the desired result.
As an energy source, you can use solar panels from other devices with USB connectors, through which you can connect a fan. It can be: a camping lantern, a solar lamp or a searchlight, as well as an external battery.
Today, some people can find such a lamp at home, perhaps it is no longer working, but it can still serve for other purposes. A self-made collector can be used to heat a house, garage, barn and any other room.
Materials and tools for the manufacture of the collector:
- an old lamp;
- aluminum tape;
- black matte paint;
- scissors for metal;
- silicone;
- glass;
- computer fan, solar battery (optional).
Collector manufacturing process:
Step one. We remove all unnecessary
First of all, you need to take the lamp and disassemble it. Everything needs to be removed from it, including wiring and connectors. For the collector, only the lamp housing will be needed. After that, holes will remain in the case, they must be carefully sealed. For these purposes, it is easiest to use aluminum tape. You can also cut patches under the holes and then glue them with silicone or liquid nails.
Step two. Preparing and painting the hull
At the next stage, the body needs to be prepared for painting. To do this, it must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and old paint. This can be done with sandpaper or grinders with the appropriate nozzle. After that, the collector housing can be painted.
The paint must be heat resistant. Otherwise, bubbles form on it when heated, and it will fall off, since in sunny weather the collector will heat up quite strongly.
Step three. Making holes
In order for air to circulate in the collector, two holes must be made in it. Through one, cold air will enter the device, and through the second, already hot air will come out. The smaller the hole, the hotter the outgoing air will be, as it will linger longer in the manifold. But if the air is hotter, its volume will be less, as a result, the heating efficiency does not increase from this.
Holes are best done before painting, but the author did it after. You can use metal shears to create holes. However, they can also be made with the help of a grinder, there will be nothing to worry about if the holes are square and not round.
Step four. Installing glass
In order for the collector to be sealed and able to work, glass must be installed on it. It is not necessary to use solid glass for these purposes, several pieces can be used, although there will be more joints. The glass is mounted on silicone, which ensures excellent tightness. All joints must be carefully worked out with silicone, otherwise the efficiency of the collector will be low.
That's all, now the collector is ready. A pipe can be connected to the outlet and led into the room to be heated. To increase the efficiency of the collector, you can install a small computer fan on one of the holes. In order for such a fan to work autonomously, it can be connected to a solar battery. As a result, the propeller itself will turn off in the evening, since the sun will no longer power the solar panel.
In addition, it is desirable to insulate the metal housing of the collector from the outside, since the metal will cool, and the efficiency of the collector will fall.
Collector testing showed the following results:
10:00 hours - 46 °C
- 11:00 hours - 58.5 °С
- 12:00 hours - 63.1 °С
- 13:00 hours - 65.9 °С
- 14:00 hours - 62.4 °С
- 15:00 hours - 54.3 °С
- 16:00 hours - 35.0 °С
Such figures were achieved despite the fact that outside the temperature did not rise above +15 degrees. And all this without the use of a fan, that is, the air circulated naturally. Of course, if the fan runs too fast, then the collector may not have time to warm up to such a temperature, but this problem can be solved by making several such devices and connecting them together. Such devices can be installed on the roof or any other place where there is sun, and then bring heat into the room using pipes.
By the way, if the lamp is not available, then you can use the old trough, it is perfect both in shape and in size.
Alternative "clean" energy, which is undoubtedly the future, in some cases may be a natural and practical choice now. First of all, in those cases when it is necessary to provide electricity to a low-power consumer located “in an open field”. A a private house, if everything is chosen and built taking into account energy saving requirements (and you, for example, do not plan to use electricity for heating), is just an example of such a "low-power" consumer. Yes, unlike an apartment, they also add, as a rule, borehole pumps for autonomous water supply and various garden equipment, but having set a goal, it is quite realistic to power it all from a solar system, supplemented by a wind generator and for safety reasons - some kind of gas or diesel generator. Moreover, the latter will turn on extremely rarely, if everything is calculated correctly.
And it can be cheaper than connecting to the power line individually. Therefore, in Russian conditions, probably, the absence of a “collective” power supply is the most common cause interest in alternative food sources. But in my opinion, there is at least one more argument in favor of "green" systems, and solar systems, even in the presence of "public" 220 volts.
The fact is that the stability of nutrition, even in the Moscow region, outside the cities can leave much to be desired. And in the case of my holiday village, the bottleneck is winding through the neighboring forests from village to village high voltage line. Trees, alas, fall from the wind, and this circumstance is unknown, it seems, only to those who consider it normal to lay overhead lines in clearings with a width of about ten meters. However, it may be that laying a cable in the ground is more expensive than periodically replacing poles damaged by a neighboring pine tree. And it's all wisely calculated.
I would like to believe, but it doesn’t work, because here the Russian tradition is clearly visible: first, do it somehow, but cheaper, and then spend time and resources on patching holes (and sincerely wonder: why is there not enough money for a new one?). Accordingly, it is much easier to make it more expensive and better “at first” in order to save “later” in private.
And since about once a season there is a “good” thunderstorm, after which it takes a week or even more to raise the line, not counting shorter outages, I really wanted to get my own margin of autonomy. Ideally - such as not to notice all this disgrace at all. The diesel or petrol version disappeared almost immediately, we even bought one. But the desire to drive this howling and stinking miracle of technology, having come to enjoy communication with nature, turned out to be lower than the actual need for electricity. It is better to do with candles or go to the city. Accordingly, this topic became relevant when one wanted to settle in a house on a more or less permanent basis.
Meanwhile, the peculiarity of the summer house is that mass activity takes place there in the summer, when solar energy, even at the latitude of Moscow, is more than enough. Actually, the trees fall mostly in the summer. This is how it used to be: the storm has passed, the sun is shining, but there is no electricity. And the interest in "solar" energy has already been reinforced by the purchase of a solar collector for heating water. In particular, a fairly compact one (12 tubes of 1.8 m each) confidently copes with the task of extending the “swimming season” in a 12-cubic-meter pool by about a month compared to natural heating.
Therefore, about a year ago, the system that I want to talk about was assembled. I specifically paid attention to the background so as not to enter into discussions on the topic of the profitability of solar systems compared to traditional ones. Sometimes, as we see, there are arguments besides the cost of a kilowatt.
Let's move on to the selection of components for solar systems.
Solar panels
So let's start with solar panels. In order of decreasing efficiency and cost, batteries based on monocrystalline, polycrystalline and amorphous silicon follow. The vast majority of branded batteries belong to the first type, which in itself is considered the most durable, the cells degrade the slowest.
By the way, if the house is small, and you do not have some conveniently located shed with a large southern slope, then in practice it may turn out that there is not much space for batteries at all. And it makes sense to take the model with the highest efficiency per unit area if you really want to build a system with a sufficiently high energy efficiency. Since it is necessary to place the batteries on the southern slope of the roof, preferably at an angle of 45 degrees.
According to the installation method, there are batteries mounted in the roof in the manner of skylights (in fact, only Roto has a completely insane cost). And the rest of the majority are simple panels built into an aluminum frame that are attached to overhead rails. The disadvantage of the latter is that the roof has to be drilled, and not every coating can withstand such a rough intervention without leaks. However, this is the only running option that was chosen.
As for the batteries themselves, Zelenograd monocrystalline batteries turned out to be a good option in terms of price and quality. Yet they are quite willing to buy in Germany. Therefore, being in Russia, it is logical and even pleasant to have the opportunity to use at least something related to electronics, but of local production.
Three batteries (TCM-170B) with a capacity of 170 W and a size of 158 × 82 cm were purchased. The calculation in this case was simple: get enough charging current in cloudy weather, as well as in the morning and evening, so that the energy balance, at a minimum, allows you to work fridge for as long as you like. Since the consumption of the refrigerator is about 100-200 W, and it works intermittently, such a load is quite capable of the described option - of course, with buffer batteries.
In real conditions, when the sun still shines, and people live in the house, there should be enough energy to use household appliances, pump water, etc. even with prolonged absence external power supply. No frills, but no special economy mode. In any case, I thought so, and now I can already confirm that the calculation was justified.
solar controller
The standard voltage of solar panels and the voltage that must be maintained to charge the batteries do not match. Rather, the voltage at the output of the solar panel varies from zero to maximum depending on the illumination, and an intermediate conversion is indispensable here.
In the simplest case, you need a controller that would turn off the batteries when they reached the maximum charge, and connect them back when, firstly, recharging is required, and, secondly, the output voltage of the solar array corresponds to that required for a normal charge. But this is a very inefficient method.
Therefore, modern low-cost controllers use PWM modulation, which allows you to get an acceptable voltage and current for charging in a larger input range. The disadvantage here is that you still need to at least approximately match the output voltage of the solar array with the voltage of the battery array.
Finally, the most versatile and efficient method is offered by MPPT controllers, which are capable of converting voltage over a much larger range and track the point during operation. maximum power, and accordingly, allow you to remove the maximum energy and provide charging in the early morning until dusk. In my case, the option with such a controller was the only adequate one, since three solar panels, no matter how you connect them, gave a non-standard voltage. Well, with such a controller, you can connect in series, which is more convenient (less wires), and there is less transmission loss, since the same power is transmitted at maximum voltage and, therefore, less current. And this is also important if the house is high, and from solar panels to the rest of the electronics and batteries there will be ten meters of cable, or even more.
Perhaps the most famous and popular MPPT controllers are from MorningStar. The selected TriStar-MPPT-45 model is designed for a charging current of 45 A, which is certainly excessive (but there are practically no low-power MPPT controllers, and besides, NEC requirements imply a margin of 25% in current, that is, really admissible current it turns out no higher than 36 A, and, roughly speaking, such a controller can charge a battery of batteries within 360 Ah). The voltage of the battery pack can be freely selected from the range: 12, 24, 48 and 36 V. Finally, the input voltage from the solar panels must be within 150 V. Of course, with such characteristics, pairing is not the slightest problem.
inverter + charger
Having connected the batteries to the batteries, it is logical to think about the second half of the circuit, that is, we need the ability to power the external network from the batteries, as well as charge them from this very network.
In the very general case you need an inverter, a charger and a relay that would switch the load when the input voltage fails. Fortunately, there are inverter models where all these functions are combined, which is important if we want to achieve completely autonomous and maintenance-free operation - since individual inverters often require a manual restart after they have run out of battery life and turned off, etc.
Actually, it is necessary to pay attention to the algorithm of work when choosing a universal device. It is important that it automatically starts charging the batteries after the appearance of voltage in the network. It is also important that the load shedding voltage for the inverter is set higher than the solar controller shedding voltage. In this case, the batteries will start charging immediately: either as they “give current”, or when morning comes. Even if the batteries run out in the evening.
Since high-quality inverter models usually have a 2-3-fold margin for inrush current, and this is not emergency, but rather normal operation, it is quite correct to choose the rated power in accordance with the actual maximum that you may need. To do this, it is usually enough to add the power of the well pump in the steady state of operation and the power of the refrigerator compressor and add 20-30% of the margin for "light bulbs" and other small household items that you are going to connect to the backup line.
Yes, of course, it is assumed that the backup line is laid with a separate cable, and it makes sense to mark the sockets so that no iron is accidentally turned on in them. In general, it makes sense to “work” to ensure that the simultaneous load is as small as possible, primarily for the sake of battery life. As you know, if the discharge current exceeds the optimum for the battery, its actual capacity may be significantly less than the declared one. And this is not in our interests.
In my case, it turned out 700 + 200 VA "it is necessary for sure." And taking into account the fact that the pump may need more powerful over time, it was optimal for the backup line to choose a model with a capacity within 1500 VA.
After a very short deliberation, I chose the Outback GFX1424E. This model is certainly expensive for its power of 1400 VA. But, as I have already noted, chasing power in the case of inverters for a home backup line is pointless. It is unlikely that anyone will install an appropriate battery of batteries in order to really be able to load them with 2-3 kilowatts of load. It is much more interesting in this case to pay for additional functions and, of course, quality.
The latter is especially important, given that the device will have to work around the clock and in a separate room without supervision. What exactly attracted in this device:
- Made in USA. It so happened that as a synonym for the reliability of technology, the phrase "German quality" is most often used. Meanwhile, American products are often even stronger and last longer, since the technological level of the country is at least not inferior, but at the same time there is no such austerity on materials as in Europe.
- Sealed body. Accordingly, the device is protected from dust, moisture and insects. No, the house is certainly clean, but it is hardly reasonable to put a rack with electrical equipment in the rooms - a garage or basement is better suited for this. And a device of the usual layout with ventilation grilles will definitely pump dust with its fan - if not immediately, but in a year or two for sure. It is possible that some spider will arrange an emergency even earlier :)
- Low noise level. The inverter is not completely silent: there is a high-frequency squeak in some modes, and, despite the sealed case, which plays the role of a radiator, there is also a low-speed fan inside, which sometimes turns on and distills air from more heated components to the radiator. But even at maximum load (that is, actually in the backup mode), the noise does not exceed 40 dBA, and in standby mode, when the batteries are charging, and the ambient temperature exceeds 25 degrees - no more than 35 dBA. This is very small, most desktop computers make louder noise during operation, but classic inverters with fans are obviously noisier.
- Low power consumption (18W idle, 6W standby). Here it must be borne in mind that you can use the sleep mode if there are no low-power energy consumers in the house that need constant power. The most common example of such a consumer is a security system (alarm system).
- Pure sine wave. Formally, even devices that are sensitive to the shape of the supply voltage are able, for the most part, to tolerate an approximated sinusoid. In any case, when it comes to engines, taking into account the fact that they will work in standby power mode only a small part of the time. But, of course, the correct shape of the sine is the function that is worth paying extra for. Rather, here the considerations come from the opposite: approximation inverters occupy the lowest (initial) segment on the market, and they have many drawbacks of a purely constructive property, in addition to the voltage shape itself. It is naive to count on such products seriously and for a long time.
- Well, the most curious feature that finally inclined the choice in favor of this device is the ability to export electricity. In other words, when the batteries are fully charged, the inverter turns on and the excess energy from the solar panels (or other alternative sources connected to the low-voltage circuit in parallel with the batteries) is sent to the external circuit. Accordingly, the internal flow is first compensated, and if it remains for the neighbors, then you can observe how the meter spins in reverse side. This, of course, is nice, because it’s not very interesting to assemble such a system just for the sake of redundancy (after all, most of the time the external network is working). But why not use your energy?
It should be added that even the inverters interlocked with the charger do not all have the export function. And if you assemble the system from separate components, you will have to buy an additional controller and, possibly, tinker with programming and configuration. There is already a sense in such a strapping only on the condition that you have assembled a fairly serious alternative power plant.
In this case, I was also not entirely sure that everything would work out automatically. Nevertheless, the solar controller is taken from another manufacturer, and both devices provide for programming (a separate socket is attached to the inverter, and the solar controller is connected via a COM port). And just there is a choice of threshold voltages for battery charging and export mode.
However, since the assembly of the entire system dragged on past midnight, I postponed the setup and programming until the morning. And in the morning it turned out that the battery charge had already ended, and since nothing serious was turned on in the house at that moment, the counter really turned in the opposite direction. Everything worked as it should.
About the measurements that I managed to make, I will tell you at the end; I will only add that the possibility of export was tested using an electromechanical counter, which is easily distinguished by a rotating disk. Electronic ones may not work out this moment properly, that is, you will give the current, but only for charitable purposes. In the meantime, it remains to say a few words about the choice of batteries.
Batteries
As a rule, lead-acid batteries are used to build home autonomous power supply systems. closed type. The so-called VRLA - Valve Regulated Lead-Acid, that is, with valve regulation of the emitted gases. There are two types of such batteries: AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat), in which the electrolyte between the plates is in fiberglass capsules, and gel. In the latter case, thickeners are added to the electrolyte, and during the production of the battery, this electrolyte is smeared on the plates.
And if in compact sources uninterruptible power supply Since gel batteries are more commonly used, for high-capacity systems, AGM models are currently the most popular, which were chosen.
Since the budget was by no means rubber, two batteries from a budget manufacturer Leoch DJM12-200 with a capacity of 200 Ah each were taken.
Such a large margin is necessary so that a short-term high-power load (pump) nevertheless creates a current within the favorable mode for the batteries. As we can see in the diagram, in order for the backup time to really be hours, not minutes, it is desirable that the current in the low-voltage circuit does not exceed 0.2C (that is, a fifth of the capacity). The batteries were connected in series because the inverter was chosen to support 24V, and this is also beneficial to reduce connection losses.
We connect to the system
Everything is rather trivial here: general rule- minimize the length of low-voltage circuits. Therefore, the inverter, solar controller and batteries are best placed on the same rack or just side by side.
In my case it turned out like this. The wires from the solar panels connected in series are connected to the solar controller (it makes sense to take the wires thicker - from 6 mm², and preferably 10 if the house is high and you are going to place the electronics in the basement). The output of the solar controller, as well as the output of the inverter, are connected to batteries connected in turn in series. It is also necessary to put a special machine in the battery circuit direct current to protect the inverter and to conveniently shut down the system if required.
It turned out to be most convenient to use the outputs of the inverter as buses for the positive and negative poles. You can also pick up a wind generator and all other sources of energy here, if the hobby for alternative energy goes into the chronic stage of the disease. As already noted, no ballast is required and the batteries will not be recharged - the inverter will simply give excess electricity to the external network.
Multiple Tests
First of all, it should be noted that the goal set - not to notice short-term outages (for several hours) and not to particularly change your plans for the day due to the mentioned night thunderstorm - has been fully achieved. There was also a long shutdown (within a week) when we were away, and earlier, no doubt, upon returning, we would have found a thawed refrigerator, in the freezer of which every self-respecting summer resident stores part of the harvest. And if there were no solar panels in the circuit, then, of course, such a result could not be achieved.
Total 4.5 kW. Since only a refrigerator, a laptop and lighting (with energy-saving lamps, in the evening) worked in the house at that time, and also worked within 30-40 minutes a day borehole pump, the total consumption was 7.2 kW. That is, indeed, almost half of the consumption, even taking into account not the most favorable weather conditions, solar panels compensated.
Although, I emphasize, this by-effect”, the goal of saving on electricity in this case was not set. As for the issues of economy, if you look closely at alternative energy from this point of view, it first of all makes sense to transfer the most expensive item - heating water - from electricity to some direct heat source. That is, if we talk about savings and tie it to the use of solar energy, it is better to start with a simple solar collector. And if you like the experience, then you will probably want to try some other source of alternative energy. Because the activity is infectious and exciting.
Addition (for discussion on the forum)
First of all, it must be added that the device in the power export mode does not pose any danger "for electricians". As you might guess, power supply to the network stops in the absence of external voltage(or rather, even after its decrease relative to the minimum threshold programmed by the user). In this case, the inverter goes into autonomous operation and only the backup line remains energized, and accordingly, only the equipment that you connect to it. During the year of operation, there were quite a few outages, and there are no complaints about the correctness of working out this state.
Batteries themselves require no more maintenance than regular batteries. window panes. In other words, if you have skylight clearly indicates the need for washing, do not forget to wipe the panels. In the case of an environmentally friendly location away from the highways, according to experience, cleaning is required no more than once a year. At the end of spring after flowering trees. But this year, for example, due to heavy rainfall, even the windows did not have to be washed. Yet, unlike vertical windows, inclined ones are well cleaned by rain. The batteries of most users, whom I managed to interview through one of the companies installing such systems, winter under the snow, there are no problems either. Although, of course, if you plan to relieve tension in the winter, then it is better to place the batteries at a large angle or on some kind of swivel bracket so that the snow does not linger.
When choosing an inverter, I strongly recommend looking at the specifications for starting currents, they are good models several times higher than the standard capacity. Accordingly, you should not trust the "feelings" or advice of those who want to sell you equipment "with a margin." The stock is necessary, but it is necessary to calculate it not by "feelings", but by measurements.
By the way, just the other day, a strong thunderstorm again "surprised" the unlucky power engineers near Moscow with the fall of pine trees. And there was no electricity for about a day. And as always, the next morning the sun shone brightly, doing its useful work.
The sun is an inexhaustible source of energy, which every year a person finds new uses. These are toys that run on the energy of this star, solar-powered chargers that allow you to charge mobile devices where there is no possibility of connecting to the mains, backpacks - an indispensable attribute of people who prefer outdoor activities, caps, straps, fountains, etc. All of them accumulating solar energy, designed to serve people. With them you feel comfortable everywhere.
The worst disaster is to go somewhere in the heat by car. But, a solution has been found - this is a solar-powered fan. He eliminated the need to connect bulky fans to the cigarette lighter, because he works autonomously using solar energy. By attaching a compact fan to the side window of the car, the interior will be filled with the long-awaited coolness, leaving the cigarette lighter for connecting a DVR or charging a mobile phone.
The technology of this gadget is absolutely harmless and environmentally friendly. The scheme of operation is simple to the point of banality: sunlight, hitting the photocells, generates energy, which makes the fan spin.
The most interesting thing is that the free energy source for these fans cannot be spoiled.
The solar panels are connected to a low-voltage fan that blows cool air through small intake holes, drawing hot air out of the car (through an open window).
You can attach it anywhere on the side window, adjusting it so that it blows on the rear or front seats.
From mechanical influences and weather surprises, it is reliably protected by automotive glass. Its dimensions and weight are small, and the price will not hit the family budget much.
You can install it on any car and drive on a hot day, enjoying the coolness, and even saving a car battery, because, unlike the same air conditioner, it does not need battery power. In addition to the fact that the fan will cool the interior, it will remove unpleasant odors from it.
It is clear that by installing such a gadget, you cannot rely on the temperature provided by the air conditioner, which uses high-pressure coolant to lower the temperature, so that cold air is supplied to the passenger compartment by a powerful fan, but you won’t have to drive in stuffiness with a fan. The disadvantage of fans powered by sunlight is that in cloudy weather they cannot perform their functions, as well as when they are installed on tinted windows. But, manufacturers are already working in this direction: there are solar fans with the ability to connect to a twelve-volt outlet. vehicle, i.e. if there is not enough solar energy, the fan can get a small amount of energy from the car battery to start working.
Specifications of Auto Cooler
For the Auto Cooler fan, the figures will respectively be as follows: 15x11x7cm, 380 grams and 110 UAH. The size of the solar panel is 5.5 x 5.5 cm, the length of the rubber tube is about 95 cm. The body is made of high quality black plastic.
Solar fans for a car, sometimes called solar fans, are able to reduce the air in the cabin to a temperature that is normally perceived by a person.
Advantages
In addition to the possibility of obtaining the desired coolness, the solar fan will keep the sun-exposed surfaces of the car, primarily the dashboard, from the appearance of cracks that inevitably appear if the car long time stays under the scorching rays of the sun. As already mentioned, thanks to it, the car is cooled with clean energy from an environmental point of view. In addition, it reduces the load on the air conditioner, which discharges battery. Well, for whom, for now, air conditioning remains an unrealizable dream - such a fan is a godsend. After all, those who drive old-style cars know firsthand that on hot days the salon turns into a real sauna. Installing the fan is simple, it is safe for others, it is universal, it can work for a short time and for a long time when parking.
Scope of autonomous solar fans
Despite the fact that solar fans have not yet become widespread, the benefits of them can hardly be overestimated. But, fans can help not only motorists. With their help, for example, you can cool the whole house. After all, its roof begins to heat up with the first rays of the sun, the gradual air of the attic becomes more and more hot, since both tiles and bitumen perfectly attract heat and retain it. Due to the lack of circulation, warm air does not rise. So the house starts to heat up. And no thermal insulation saves from the heat. The air conditioner is also not very effective, which removes heat from the room, but is not able to cope with the huge amount of it that accumulates in the attic. In addition, it is quite expensive.
The only way to stop the influx of heat from the attic is to install exhaust fan V air vent on the ridge of the roof, which will provide air circulation. More efficient is a photocell fan that provides ventilation when needed. In the morning, for example, while the roof is not yet heated, there is no need for ventilation. As it warms up, the solar fan spins faster, slowing down again in the evening.
Solar-powered bilge fans are also produced, designed for ventilating galleys, holds, and latrines. They do not require an additional power source, they are easily mounted in the porthole, deckhouse and deck. Of the most common - fungus fan - models 30002 and 30003, which differ in the presence or absence of protective screen. In model 30003, it is present, so the body of the device is slightly higher.
It is needed so that dampness does not accumulate in the cabin, air does not stagnate, and there is additional ventilation on a hot day.
The device is set up simply: the body is made of stainless steel, inside there is a solar panel that feeds a small fan. A completely autonomous fan works when there is light, and when it is not, it stops working.
Many people use a mini fan on hot days, which is attached to the cap with a special clip. This device is also solar-powered as it is self-contained. This wonderful accessory will be appreciated when the temperature rises above thirty degrees, and a pleasant coolness emanates from it. Its size is only 48x58 mm, the fan diameter is 73 mm, so it will be convenient when playing sports, fishing, traveling, and just for those who have to move around the city a lot every day.
solar car fan price
Usually the cost of fans for a car that run on solar energy does not go beyond twenty to forty dollars . You can buy this necessary device in any specialized store, or you can order its delivery in an online store.
How to cool the air in the car
A sweltering summer day... Returning to your car, you pulled up outside the sun-sheltered canopy of the local shopping center. You parked it in a vast hot space, as all the places under the canopy were occupied. As you open the driver's side door, you notice that the hot airflow has become so thick that it even casts a shadow on the sidewalk. Your legs and shoulders are hot, and since the car is not equipped with air conditioning, you are now forced to endure this discomfort. You are breathing heavily, feeling like you are in a sauna or oven.
This oven analogy is by no means an exaggeration: even on a moderately warm day, the temperature inside the car can reach 70 ° C. And some surfaces are heated up to more than 90 degrees, and then it’s really just right to fry fried eggs on them. How to protect the interior of your car from the heat when you need to leave it for a long time? One way is to install an easy-to-use solar car fan.
In fact, the name of this fan sounds even more complicated than its device itself. The solar car fan, as it is sometimes called, receives and converts it into low-voltage electricity needed to drive small fan, which accelerates the stagnant, hot air of your car and promotes the flow of fresh air. Such car gadgets can reduce the temperature in the car interior by several degrees. And although it may not seem like much, on hot days those few degrees can sometimes mean the difference between life and death: according to statistics, temperatures above 38 degrees Celsius often become fatal for children and pets left unattended in cars.
As early as the early 1990s, Mazda began a comprehensive introduction of solar, but for unknown reasons stopped offering the feature. Audi and Mercedes-Benz recently offered such systems as vehicle options. However, if an Audi Benz is too expensive for you at the moment, you can always get a portable solar fan. Designed to fit any passenger vehicle, these versatile fans typically cost between $20 and $40, leaving you free to spend your money on better things than luxury German cars. Let's take a look at how these devices work and weigh the pros and cons of purchasing solar fans for your car.
The principle of operation (mechanism) of a solar-powered car fan
The most striking aspect of solar car fans is that they use solar energy to operate. Their power supply is free and will never be exhausted.
In typical solar car fans, the solar panels are connected to a small, low voltage fan. It forces airflow through tiny holes, expelling hot air and directing cold air into your car. As a rule, the entire ventilation device is mounted on a long strip to the upper edge of the window or door of the car. Miniature solar panels and the fan itself are in contact with inside glass and therefore well protected from the weather and mechanical impact from the outside.
Of course, you should not expect that by installing a single gadget, you will return to a completely cool car interior with more than 30 degrees outside, but there is every reason to believe that the cabin will now not be as hot as it could be without such a device. . In addition, fans can be quite effective in removing unpleasant odors from the car, which often occur in the hot and humid environment of a closed car, such as the mixing of smells of sweat, perfume and food taken on a trip.
Disadvantages of Solar Car Fans
Of course, this one is not perfect. Since fans of this type operate solely on solar energy, this causes several disadvantages of such a system:
- they often need direct sunlight to function, so they won't work well on hot but cloudy days;
- manufacturers warn that the device will not work when installed on tinted windows;
- The most serious drawback: solar fans require installation on your car window, which entails a certain risk of hacking.
Fortunately, some car manufacturers are already taking action in this direction: in response to frequent complaints that devices do not work away from direct sunlight, they have invented solar fans that can also be plugged into a car's 12-volt outlet. So if solar energy is too low to start the fan motor, the unit will draw a small amount of electricity from your car battery.
However, if you have already begun to think about what you can save on turning it on on hot days and even completely replace it, take your time. Solar fans for the car in the near future will not yet be able to compete with air conditioners that use high pressure coolant to lower the air temperature and direct a jet of cold air to where it is needed by means of a powerful fan. In solar fans, on the other hand, hot air is simply blown out of the machine by the exhaust method, and cooler air from outside is sucked in through the air intake holes.
Be careful while driving: you should remember that it is not advisable to keep the solar fan on while driving, as the fan can interfere with the view from the window to some extent.
Benefits of solar powered car fans
It is unlikely that you would deliberately throw your favorite CDs, expensive electronics or sensitive car gadgets into a red-hot furnace. However, this is exactly what happens when you leave your car with your valuables in direct sunlight. Worst of all, if they remain on surfaces exposed to the sun, for example, on the dashboard or on the front seats. Excessive sun exposure causes cracks in the leather, plastics and other materials that make up interior decoration your vehicle.
A solar fan for a car has several advantages:
- thanks to him, the air conditioner of your car works less;
- you can be sure that your car is cooled with clean energy;
- it will increase airflow and make your return to the car on a scorching summer day more comfortable than ever before;
- helps get rid of unpleasant odors and excessive air humidity;
- most models are easy to install on almost any car or truck;
- unlike blinds or tinted windows, which also contribute to the cooling of the car interior, you do not have to worry about violating the integrity of your vehicle when installing the device;
- accessible to anyone the price of the device.
Keep in mind that the results of your solar car may vary, and this will depend on several factors, including the position of the sun and the quality of the device you choose.
