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Are you building new design or redo the roof under additional rooms, you need to take care of how to make high-quality insulation. If the roof is already covered, from the inside, all work is carried out taking into account the geometry of the roof and the climatic features of the region. In this article, we have collected all necessary information O possible ways insulation and provide you practical advice from professionals.
A well-insulated attic can serve as a bedroom or even a children's room.
Useful information and video on how to insulate the attic for winter living
A lot depends on the quality insulation of the attic roof. If you plan to use this room in the winter, you need to think carefully about what materials to use for thermal insulation. Another important aspect- Roof structure.
The peculiarity of the under-roof space is not only in geometry, it is colder here in winter than in other rooms, and hotter in summer. To maintain the optimum temperature, roofers recommend forming under roofing multilayer "pie" of waterproofing, and.
Important point! With a large heat loss through the roof in winter, the snow on it begins to thaw and forms an ice crust. And water, as you know, is looking for any, even the most minimal loophole. So an ice roof is bad, there's a good chance you'll get a leak.
About the need for waterproofing works
All fibrous heat insulators, one way or another, absorb moisture. It can form due to flaws in the roofing or condensation inside the room due to temperature differences. Moisture that gets into the insulation adversely affects its condition. To prevent this is the task of the waterproofing layer.
Technologies modern construction involve the use of membrane materials. They do not allow the formation of condensate and at the same time do not allow external moisture to pass through.
Internal insulation of the attic is one of the most difficult construction tasks. And all because the result is important here: how the roofing pie will behave in winter, whether there will be smudges, whether there will be a smell of dampness and whether it will be necessary to disassemble it all later. Why such difficulties? The fact is that no matter how carefully the budget for building a house is planned, it, as a rule, is still not enough for everything. Up to the fact that even the owners of the future family nest decide to buy a laminate cheaper - just to finish the repairs and just start living. And the most popular item of expenditure, which is immediately reduced as soon as the lack of funds becomes clear, is the insulation of the attic. “Later, in the future,” the owners promise themselves, especially since warming the attic from the inside is not a problem at all, and you can start it at any time, even in winter.
In fact, there are a lot of subtleties and nuances, and therefore, if you have already taken up this matter, carefully study this article. And everything will work out!
Why are there problems?
There are statistics: up to 30% of attics have to be redone after the first winter. Roofing, interior trim and films are removed, and the insulation is dried. A lot of materials have to be thrown away, and this is another unplanned cost. Even if you hired a professional team of builders, this is still not a guarantee of the well-being of the future attic, especially if the roofing pie is thought out without taking into account the local climate.
Why is this happening? So, in Russia, dampness, cold and round-the-clock negative temperatures are not uncommon. And the lower the ambient temperature, the greater the volume of steam that penetrates through the vapor barrier - all due to an increase in the partial pressure drop. And at the same time, the migration of moisture through the cold membrane slows down significantly, although it does not stop. Bottom line: the situation is even worse than under standard proven conditions. And therefore it is impossible to test the vapor permeability of a roofing cake in European conditions, and expect the same good result in the Siberian regions.
Here is a simple illustration to help you understand what we are talking about here:
Note that the maximum pressure of water vapor on the roofing pie is in the residential attic. And the point is not even that there is a person in such a room much more often than in an ordinary cold attic - it’s just that the pressure of warm air is additionally added to the vapor pressure. Moreover, these processes are so clear that they can be observed in the form of real leaks!
The fact is that wet insulation loses its properties very quickly. And the more humid the air that gets to it, the faster the thermal insulation decreases. For example, a basalt insulation with a moisture content of only 5% already loses its heat by 20% than a dry one.
For example, only one cubic meter airspace, if relative humidity is 100%, at a temperature of 20C contains 17.3 grams of water - just in the form of steam. And the lower the temperature, the more difficult it is for air to hold water in a bound state. And when the temperature drops to 16C, there will already be only 13.6 grams of water vapor in the same air, and the rest will settle in the form of water in the heater. We conclude: moisture in the insulation appears due to the condensation of excess water vapor from the air in the process of lowering the temperature. And she needs to actively fight. And this is not the only problem - now we will deal with all.
Let's start warming - work technology
Let's start with the first problem - the insufficient thickness of the log if you insulate the attic after the construction of the whole house and the installation of the roofing. Why is that? Let's look at this issue in detail.
So, attic insulation can be divided into basic and additional. Basic - this is insulation, which is carried out even during the construction of the roof of the house and involves the use of light insulation directly in roof structure. And here additional insulation already turns an uninhabited attic into a full-fledged attic.
With basic insulation the main task- to minimize the heat loss of the house through the roof, and such basic insulation may well replace the additional internal one, if only you correctly approach the choice of insulation, do not spare its thickness and think it over well truss system. This is often done by those builders of their own home who understand that even 20 rooms may not be enough in the future, and an additional room for a billiard room, a library or a sauna cannot interfere. And therefore, it is initially better to build it completely residential, and not to finish something later.
But, if during the construction of your house you decided to get by with elementary thermal insulation and now you have enthusiastically taken up the arrangement of a residential and comfortable attic, then the only option for you is additional internal insulation with all its nuances, the main of which is the insufficient thickness of the rafters, which were not originally designed for dense internal insulation. But the problem is completely solvable, as proof of which we have prepared a detailed master class for you:
And now we move on to more insidious moments that are no less important: proper vapor barrier and waterproofing, which you may need to redo.
No - dampness and smudges!
It is extremely important for any insulation to create the right conditions, otherwise the material will quickly become damp and instead of a heat source it will become a source of dampness, mold and cold. What are these conditions? Let's find out more!
What is dew point?
The first and most important quality of any insulation is low thermal conductivity. Thanks to it, the insulating layer rigidly separates the warm air inside from the cold outside. It would seem that they inserted a heater into the rafters, fixed it - and everything else is needed? It wasn't there!
Firstly, from the outside, this whole thing must be carefully waterproofed from rain and damp air, because. such a roofing cake in this regard is a real sponge. Secondly, any insulation also has a second quality - vapor permeability, i.e. "breathes". And now let's remember the physics: the warm moist air inside the room under the roof (always humid!) Without finding an obstacle easily passes inside the insulation and collides with its colder part, the one closer to the roofing pie. And there this air condenses, settling in the form of droplets, which is called the dew point. And then what's the point of external waterproofing? Mineral wool heaters are especially susceptible to this phenomenon, we note.
Therefore, our first task is to ensure that as little steam as possible passes through the insulation, because even super-diffuse membranes in cold weather do not cope well with the removal of water vapor, due to a significant slowdown in moisture transfer processes. And this is already a question of the correct vapor barrier of the attic insulation.
Here good example, what are the unpleasant consequences of ignoring the concept of dew point:
Vapor barrier: warm European winters and Russian frosts
In fact, in Western Europe, where winter has always been mild, there is no need for a vapor barrier with special properties - simple packaging films are quite similar. So they just sometimes end up in Russia, although their vapor barrier properties are not high. These are roll films of LDPE, which stands for "low density polyethylene". In such films, non-uniformity in thickness and microdefects are noticeable. Their main purpose is product packaging.
Slightly better are reinforced materials, which are made by hot pressing a film to a mesh of twisted thread. In production, such films are injured by mesh nodes, and as a result, low vapor barrier properties are further reduced. Although the film itself is much stronger than usual, of course.
More reliable can be called bag fabrics made of polypropylene yarns and spunbonds. The former are additionally laminated with molten HDPE, but a uniform and continuous film is still not obtained, however, the strength pleases. And the latter are made from non-woven polypropylene fiber, but its vapor permeability is still in the range of 15-25 g / m2 per day, and this is a very low figure.
And aluminum foil boasts the best vapor barrier properties, which is suitable even for arranging steam rooms, in which the pressure and volume of water vapor are the highest. The only point: such a vapor barrier additionally creates the effect of a thermos in the attic, simultaneously reflecting invisible heat rays back into the room. And therefore it is better not to insulate a small attic room like that, but for a spacious one - that's it.
Therefore, if you want to save heat as much as possible, or in the attic you plan to make a good sauna, then you need such a vapor barrier:
Or immediately purchase a heater with an aluminum side:
Close access to water vapor
But remember that a good vapor barrier film is still important to properly lay and waterproof, otherwise water vapor will still find its way.
The joints of the vapor barrier sheets are usually sealed with a special butyl rubber adhesive tape, but even in this case it is impossible to guarantee complete tightness. The thing is that over time, the adhesion of the sticky layer decreases, and with an additional load, the canvases become unstuck. That's why when the device exterior finish when it is possible to attach the same drywall directly to the vapor barrier, many put an additional crate. Its task is not so much to ensure that the finish is fixed more evenly (which is also important), but to press the tape or sealant with slats.
In addition, this crate (usually with slats up to 3 cm thick) additionally allows for laying electrical wires right under the skin, and not through the insulation, as many do and which can hardly be called a technically competent solution.
But the places where the vapor barrier adjoins the passing pipes and brick walls be sure to isolate with special sealants or tapes.
Another important point: never stretch the vapor barrier - fasten with a small margin. The point is that everything wooden structures, which is the truss system, naturally dry out and become slightly smaller. The frame itself becomes mobile, and under the roof outside and under the sheathing inside, there is a risk of ruptures. And then - a surprise!
Does external waterproofing "breathe"?
So with warm inside insulation, we put a vapor barrier that does not allow moist air to come from the room. And on the outer, colder side, we are already fixing waterproofing, which will protect the insulation under the roofing pie from external accidental leaks of melt water or rain.
And the further development of events already depends on how “breathable” the upper waterproofing film will be. So, if you purchased the most common roll of inexpensive waterproofing - things are bad, moisture from the roofing cake will evaporate for a long time and hard, as a result - dampness and gradual destruction of the insulation. But modern vapor-permeable membranes are called “smart” for a reason: they do not let moisture in, but take water vapor out. It's all about their unusual, well-thought-out structure. Why does it turn out that when using cheap barrier films, even expensive insulation does not last long, and repairs are not far off.
Please note that the diffuse membrane should fit as tightly as possible to the insulation, without any gap, like with a conventional film. Otherwise, the membrane material will cool more strongly, and the temperature will become lower than the steam migrating through the insulation. You will see the result in the form of ice right on the membrane, which will make it lose its vapor-permeable properties even more.
When should the roof be removed?
Quite often, during the construction process, roofing material or reinforced films are installed as roof waterproofing. And after a couple of years, when the attic turned out to be very necessary and all the households enthusiastically began to repair it, it turns out that without full parsing the roof won't work.
What's the matter? The fact is that such waterproofing does not “breathe” at all, and any insulation under it will completely bend. That is why, if the roof of your house is still under construction, but you are thinking about how to postpone attic insulation for the future, immediately use a good super-diffuse membrane as waterproofing.
But how can something get into the insulation if we have already installed a vapor barrier? The fact is that not a single film in the world is capable of 100% retaining water vapor - they are very small. And no matter how hard manufacturers try, there is no absolute barrier. And even more: modern vapor barrier films, in fact, do not even half do their job, and only the highest quality ones are able to retain steam by 75-80%. Everything else, unfortunately, gets inside the roofing pie.
let's sum it up ogi. You should end up with a roofing pie with two films that have absolutely opposite properties: the inner one does not let steam into the insulation, and the second saves it from a small amount that accidentally got there.
Thermal insulation of complex structural elements
If you have decided on a heater and insulating materials - congratulations! Prepare everything carefully, calculate everything you need and boldly proceed. Most importantly, do installation work only in a well-ventilated area. And, finally, when working with modern heaters, many manufacturers advise using a vacuum cleaner before insulating the attic roof from the inside, and at the end.
It is not difficult to insulate the pitched and straight walls of the attic, and the first difficulty you will encounter is windows and others. complex elements designs. It is also important to properly insulate them, leaving no chance for moisture or water vapor to seep through. Do you know what are usually the most problematic places in attic rooms, which are “pleasant” with mold and smudges? Therefore, take this question seriously:
Here is another tricky moment when the attic floor is not made of logs, but with a solid slab. You need to warm it up like this:
And, finally, after insulating the attic, make sure that snow does not accumulate later in the drains and on the ridge - the entrance and exit of the movement of under-roof air. For this, it is more rational to install ventilation pipes along the entire roof ridge, and make the ridge itself non-ventilated. That's all the difficulty!
Properly executed attic roof insulation is the key to a comfortable atmosphere in this room, and a long service life. interior decoration attic room. In order to be warm and comfortable in winter, and in summer you are not disturbed by heat and stuffy air, it is very important not only to choose the right heat-insulating materials, but also to mount them in compliance with the technology. Today we will tell you how to insulate mansard roof with your own hands, which heaters are best suited for this purpose, and most importantly - how to avoid common installation errors that reduce all efforts to almost zero results. You will learn all the most important things about the insulation of the mansard roof - the video clips attached to the article will clearly demonstrate all the subtleties of this work.
Warming mansard roof has its own characteristics, due to the fact that the walls of the living space are directly adjacent to the roof, more precisely, they actually form a single whole with it. That is why it is customary to pay close attention to the insulation of the mansard roof from the inside, which allows you to ensure a normal microclimate in the room. Before we start talking about how to insulate the attic roof from the inside, let's figure out what layers the so-called "roofing pie" consists of, and why it is so important to arrange these layers in the right sequence:
The diagram shows the correct order of arrangement of the elements of the thermal insulation system of the attic roof
What is the reason for this arrangement of layers? Elementary laws of physics. Imagine that a decent layer of snow fell in winter, which, by the way, is a natural heat insulator. As a result of the life of people living in mansard house, warm air will rise from the inside to the roof surface. The snow covering it will melt. And as soon as the temperature outside drops below zero, an ice crust forms, which no longer has any heat-insulating properties. essence proper insulation the roof of the attic is to prevent the snow from melting in winter and the penetration of scorching heat in summer.
The scheme of air movement in the under-roof space, and the work of the vapor barrier during the insulation of the mansard roof
More details about the device "roofing pie" and principles correct operation You will learn all its components from this informative video:
The better to insulate the attic roof: the choice of insulation
There are four most important criteria, based on which it is necessary to choose a high-quality insulation for a mansard roof:
- Thermal conductivity;
- moisture resistance;
- fire safety;
- Ecological purity.
The first parameter can be called decisive, since it is precisely on how low the thermal conductivity of the material you choose depends on its thickness, the number of layers, and most importantly, its efficiency.
Important Insulation for a mansard roof with a coefficient of thermal conductivity not higher than 0.05 W / m * K can be considered sufficiently high-quality and reliable.
The second indicator is also important, especially for the attic roof truss system made of wood. The resistance of the insulation to moisture will allow you to worry less about the possibility of damage and decay of wood. Why the fire safety of insulating materials is important, it is probably unnecessary to say. And, finally, the environmental friendliness of the insulation in the case of attic rooms is also of great importance, especially if it is a bedroom or a children's room in the attic.
Comparative table of construction and finishing materials indicating the coefficient of their thermal conductivity
As follows from the figure above, insulating the mansard roof with ecowool is an excellent solution, since this mineral insulation meets all four material selection criteria. However, it cannot be called the most affordable, so many craftsmen refuse to use ecowool in favor of cheaper, but no less effective heaters. For example, insulation of the attic roof with polyurethane foam allows you to achieve the same excellent effect, while saving money. Among the effective mineral and polymer insulation can also be called:
- Basalt wool;
- glass wool;
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- Styrofoam.
By the way, it is the insulation of the mansard roof with foam plastic that can be called the most economical and simple method. But it is worth remembering that the foam does not let steam through, moreover, rodents often settle in it. Expanded polystyrene can be called a more modern and technically advanced alternative to conventional foam. Choose best option insulation for the attic roof will help you this video:
How to properly insulate the roof of the attic with your own hands
Do-it-yourself insulation of a mansard roof is not at all difficult; for this you do not need to have the skills of a professional builder. The specifics of the installation of thermal insulation depends entirely on the type you choose insulating material. If the attic roof is insulated with mineral wool or glass wool, the process will take a little longer than in the case of polystyrene or polystyrene. The fact is that cotton wool is stacked in several layers to achieve a good effect, and requires additional vapor barrier, because it strongly absorbs moisture.
The technology of insulating the attic roof from the inside with mineral wool on the example of a broken double pitched roof
The thickness of the mansard roof insulation is directly proportional to its thermal conductivity, that is, the denser and more reliable the material, the less it will be needed. Usually, during the installation of thermal insulation, an additional layer is made from cotton wool to cover the rafters. But many hosts residential attics this categorically does not suit, since truss beams can act as an important decorative element future interior of the attic room. If you consider yourself one of these owners, extruded polystyrene foam is preferable for you, a small layer of which is laid between the rafters.
Advice Before starting work on roof insulation, consider the future design attic room, and select the type and method of installation of thermal insulation that best suits your interior design.
For everyone who wants to know in detail how to insulate a mansard roof - the video below. This short film tells about the insulation of the roof of a wooden country house from glued laminated timber with a gable roof just using the most modern and high-quality heat-insulating material - extruded polystyrene foam.
1. Method for calculating the distance between the rafters
2. Rafter structure for corrugated board
3. Roof structure for ceramic tiles
4. Rafter structure for metal tiles
5. Rafter structure for ondulin
6. Rafter structure for slate coating
7. Rafters for single-pitched and double-pitched roofs
The roof frame must be reliable and durable.
But without well-conducted calculations, this is difficult to achieve. In the process of carrying out the calculations, it is determined at what distance to put the rafters on the roof.
What can lead to an incorrect or inaccurate calculation of the loads that the truss structure will undergo? To the most negative consequences, ranging from deformation of the rafter legs and damage to the roof covering and ending with the collapse of the base of the roof frame. Therefore, when designing buildings, the list of mandatory calculations contains data on what should be the distance between the roof rafters.
There is a certain technique that allows you to calculate this value.
Method for calculating the distance between the rafters
The distance between the rafters on the roof is called the pitch of the rafters. As a rule, the step of the rafters in the roof structure usually exceeds one meter, and the minimum gap varies within 60 centimeters.
Calculation required amount rafters for a roof of a certain length and the pitch of the rafters are produced as follows:
- before calculating the length of the rafters, measure the length of the slope along the eaves of the roof;
- the resulting value is divided by the selected distance between the rafters.
For example, the step is one meter, so it must be divided by one, and if it is 60 centimeters, then the divisor will be 0.6;
- then one is added to the result, and the total is rounded up.
Thus, by simple calculations, the number of rafters that must be installed to equip one roof slope is determined.
After that, the length of the slope is divided by the number of rafters obtained, as a result of which the value of the interaxal gap between the rafters, called the step, is obtained.
For example, with a roof slope of 25.5 meters and a step of 0.6 meters, the calculation is performed as follows:
25.5: 0.6 \u003d 42.5 + 1 \u003d 43.5, after rounding to the nearest whole number, the result will be 44 - so many rafters will be needed for the roof slope.
This simple technique, which allows you to determine at what distance the rafters for the roof are placed, does not take into account the features of the roofing material used.
Rafter structure for corrugated board
The step of the rafter system when creating a roof from this material should be at least 600 millimeters, and the maximum step of the rafters under corrugated board should not exceed 900 millimeters.
When the gap is larger, then it is necessary to install transverse boards with a large cross section. In this case, the cross section of the rafters themselves is selected in size
50x100 millimeters or 50x150 millimeters (read: "Installation and dimensions of roof rafters").
For laying corrugated board, a crate of boards of 30x100 millimeters is required, it is mounted with a step of 500 mm or more, depending on the thickness of the roofing material and the height of the trapezoid.
When a crate for corrugated board is created, the board facing the eaves should be 10-15 millimeters thicker than the rest. The design of the crate must allow passage for fastening such vertical elements as ventilation pipes, a chimney, etc.
Roof structure for ceramic tiles
The design features of the rafters for laying ceramic tiles are due to the fact that clay is the raw material for its manufacture - the material is quite heavy, its weight is 10 times greater than that of metal tiles.
Thus, the load on the supporting system of the roof, based on one square meter of area, is from 40 to 60 kilograms.
Rafters for such frame system must be made from well-dried wood, the moisture content of which does not exceed 15%. For their production, a bar with a section of 50x150 millimeters or 60x180 millimeters (for reliability) is used.
In this case, the step of the truss system is 80 - 130 centimeters, depending on the steepness of the roof slope. So at an angle of inclination equal to 15 degrees, the distance between the rafters is 80 centimeters, and at 75 degrees - 130 centimeters.
When calculating the step between the rafters, experts take into account their length.
At the maximum value of the length of the elements, when performing work, the minimum distance between them is observed. With short rafters, it should be as large as possible.
Safe movement on a roof with a slope of less than 45 degrees can be made if the rafter pitch does not exceed 80-85 centimeters.
When arranging a ceramic roof, there is another feature - this is a certain size of the crate step, with which it is stuffed onto the rafters. It depends on the type of tiles purchased.
Most in a simple way it is possible to calculate the step of the crate, given that most of the tiles have a length of 400 millimeters, and the overlap during laying is from 55 to 90 millimeters.
Therefore, in this case, the step of the crate is equal to the length of the tile minus the amount of overlap, which is 310-345 millimeters (read: "Crate of the roof for metal tiles: installation and fastening").
When the roof has several slopes, as in the photo, the sheathing step and the number of rows of tiles are calculated for each step of the rafters separately.
Mansard roof insulation: video instruction
The marking of the rows is carried out with the help of a cord fixed on the counter-lattice, which is located on opposite sides of the roof slope (read also the article: “Crate step for corrugated board”).
Roof structure for metal roofing
During the construction of suburban private real estate, metal roofing can be found most often.
This roofing material similar to the flooring made of clay tiles, but in comparison with it has a number of advantages. Sheet metal tiles are easy to install, so you can build a roof in a shorter time, the rafter system for metal tiles is also not difficult.
Metal tiles are lighter than ceramic products, the difference in weight sometimes reaches 35 kilograms per square meter, depending on the thickness of the products (read also: “Arrangement of a rafter system for metal tiles - design options, rafter pitch”).
Due to a significant reduction in the weight of the roofing, it becomes possible to reduce the thickness of the elements of the rafter structure and the cross-sectional dimensions of the lathing bars, and increase the installation step of the rafters.
Under the metal-tiled coating, the rafter legs are mounted with a distance of 600 to 950 millimeters, while the cross section of the construction material is 150 by 50 millimeters.
According to experts, in this case, if a heater 150 millimeters thick is placed between the rafters, then such thermal insulation will create comfortable conditions to stay in the attic room. At the same time, for greater reliability, it is advisable to choose a 200 mm insulation.
When installing rafters, to ensure ventilation of the space that is filled with insulation, holes with a diameter of 10-12 millimeters are drilled in the rafters near the upper roof.
The technology for creating a truss system for metal tiles does not differ significantly from structures for other types of roofing materials.
The only feature is that at the rafters, the upper support is mounted on the ridge run from above, and not on the side of the ridge beam. The presence of a free zone between the rafters ensures air circulation under the roofing, and this, due to the use of metal material, reduces the risk of condensation.
When installing a roof wooden house when it is planned to replace the Mauerlat with the upper crown, if it is incorrect to calculate at what distance the rafters are placed, it will be difficult to correct the error (read also: “How to calculate the rafters on the roof”).
Rafter structure for ondulin
When creating a roof from ondulin, the pitch of the truss system should be at least 600 millimeters, and the maximum distance between the rafters should not exceed 900 millimeters.
For the rafter system, boards of 50x200 millimeters are selected and thereby provide an insignificant margin of safety, taking into account the rafter runs.
On top of the counter-lattice and the truss structure, a crate of 40x50 mm timber is laid with an interaxal step of 60 centimeters (read the article: “Ondulin or metal tile - which is better”).
Rafter construction under a covering from slate
Slate is one of the most popular roofing materials. For its installation, choose rafters with a section of 50x100 or 50x150 millimeters. When deciding how far to put the rafters, one must proceed from the fact that the minimum value cannot be less than 600 millimeters, and the maximum - 800 millimeters (more: "How to put the rafters on the house").
For the manufacture of crates are used wooden beam with a section of 50x50 millimeters or a board of 25x100 millimeters.
The step of the lathing is selected depending on the angle of the slope of the roof slope. If it is insignificant, then it is enough for the sheet of material to rest on 4 bars in increments of 45 centimeters, and with a large slope, 3 bars in increments of 630 to 650 millimeters will suffice.
How to make the installation of a roof from corrugated board with your own hands, a detailed video instruction:
Rafters for single-pitched and double-pitched roofs
When creating a rafter structure, one should remember the need to provide the system with an additional margin of safety, while taking into account the pitch of the rafters.
Distance between rafters shed roof choose depending on the thickness of the wood and the material of the roof - it can be from 60 to 140 centimeters. The thickness of the wood elements depends on the area and the load on the roof (read: "Shed roof truss system, main advantages and characteristics").
The distance between the rafters of a gable roof is made taking into account the size of the heat insulator that is laid between them. The approximate step between the rafter legs is 1-1.2 meters (read: "The gable roof truss system and its components"). Rafters regulate the size of the roof overhang.
Insulation of the attic from the inside, if the roof is already covered
The desire of many owners of country houses to make the most of the area of \u200b\u200bthe house makes them pay attention to the attic. It often happens that it is easier to equip an attic than to expand a house by adding a residential building to it. Since the attic is part of the roof of the house, it is with the thermal insulation of the roof that the arrangement should begin. attic floor. Consider how to properly insulate the attic with mineral wool and show detailed video instructions on the topic.
It is necessary to insulate the attic with mineral wool and equip the attic under the room if the roof of the house allows you to make the ceiling in this room of sufficient height and it will be possible to strengthen the interfloor ceilings in order to safely walk in the attic.
If these two conditions are feasible, then you can safely proceed to independent thermal insulation of the attic with basalt mineral wool for living in winter.
The better to insulate the attic
First, consider the most important question - the better to insulate the attic with foam or mineral wool. Let's determine which heat-insulating material is suitable for proper insulation of the roof of the attic floor.
To do this, the following parameters should be taken into account: thermal conductivity coefficient, resistance to high temperatures and moisture, fire safety, environmental friendliness and low weight.
Most of these requirements are met by fiberglass or mineral wool. Unlike basalt insulation, Technoplex expanded polystyrene does not withstand high temperatures and is highly flammable.
Knauf glass wool and Rocklight basalt wool is a fire-resistant and fire-resistant material, and with high-quality vapor barrier, mineral wool will not be afraid of moisture.
Comparison of building materials by thermal conductivity
Mineral wool is made from natural material- basalt. The material has a density of 18 to 45 kg / m³, has good heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties.
Insulation of mansard roofs from the inside, instruction and video
We reviewed various grades of mineral wool, their purpose and characteristics in the Inorganic Thermal Insulation section. Therefore, we will not dwell on this topic separately.
Ways to insulate the attic at home with mineral wool
The attic is insulated in two ways: under the rafters and between them. The easiest way is to place mineral wool between the rafters. This method is used to insulate the roof even at the stage of building a house, but you can use the technology even after construction is completed.
You can do the thermal insulation of the attic with your own hands, if you have sufficient competence.
In addition to this method, there is also a technology for placing basalt insulation under the rafters.
This technology provides for the construction of an additional frame for the installation of mineral wool, which entails an increase in costs. However, this method has important advantage- the absence of cold bridges between the insulation and the rafters, which will protect the wood from possible wetting and decay.
Insulation of the attic with the location of thermal insulation under the rafters will be easier and more correct, but at the same time the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is lost.
In both cases, the use of a vapor barrier in order to cut off moist air warm room, from penetration into the basalt fiber and its moisture. You should also take care of ventilation in the attic of the space between the roof and the insulation.
We warm the attic with mineral wool with our own hands
1. Construction of the frame of the attic room
The mineral wool should be located at a distance between the guides of the frame, for this the timber is installed at a width of a smaller width of the insulation by 1-1.5 cm.
The thickness of the timber should be equal to or greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation in the attic. To do this, you should use a heat engineering calculator to calculate the thickness of the mineral fiber insulation for the roof and attic of a private house.
Condensation often forms on a metal roof, so wood treatment with an antiseptic is necessary to protect it from moisture.
2.
Laying mineral wool in the frame
Rocklight mineral wool or another brand is placed in the frame, the plates should be placed in a spacer, without gaps. It is better to lay the slabs in two rows so that the second layer of mineral wool overlaps the joints of the first row. Do not forget that when working with mineral wool, you should protect yourself from mineral wool microparticles floating in the air by putting on gloves, a respirator and other personal protective equipment.
Insulation of the attic with mineral wool from the inside and outside
3.
Installing a vapor barrier membrane
To protect glass wool or mineral wool from moisture, cover the entire structure with a super diffuse membrane. The material is able to pass air, preventing the penetration of moisture particles and wetting of mineral wool.
To do this, you should find out which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation, otherwise you may encounter serious problems when operating the attic.
4. Sheathing the frame with drywall
Before sheathing the frame, wooden slats 20-30 mm thick should be filled to create a gap between the false wall and the vapor barrier film.
This air will allow moisture to evaporate more efficiently from the surface of the film. Many people use foil penofol instead of vapor barrier, the material provides additional insulation, reflects heat and protects the mineral wool from moisture.
Photo. Do-it-yourself attic sheathing with drywall
5. Plasterboard wall decoration
The seams between the sheets of drywall are glued with masking tape and puttied.
After the rough layer has dried, the putty is sanded, and the entire surface of the wall is primed. At the last stage, all the walls in the attic are covered with finishing putty, wallpapered or painted. Watch the video at the end of the article for all the stages of attic insulation with mineral wool from the inside.
6. Laying the floor on the attic floor
After insulating the ceiling and walls, you should start laying finish coat gender. A substrate for a laminate or parquet board is spread on the subfloor, and the floor covering is laid on top.
Self-insulation of the attic with mineral wool is not an extremely difficult task, and if you have experience in working with construction tool then you can do the work yourself.
today is not uncommon. Increase at the expense of the attic useful square meters- The easiest way. But in order to throughout the year, the roof will have to be insulated. Therefore, in this article we will consider how the attic is insulated from the inside if the roof is already covered with roofing material. We will figure out what thermal insulation materials can be used for this and what technologies to use for this.
And although many believe that the attic is a kind of attic, in fact, this is a completely different room, which differs from the first in size. And the main one is height. It must be at least 2.5 m.
In all other respects, this is an attic space, fenced with a truss system with laid on it. If the roof is gable, then on both sides the attic is protected by gables - vertical walls that support the truss structure. It is in them that they make doors with access to the adjacent balcony. But the main walls of the room are the roof of the house with a certain slope of the slopes.
The technology for assembling the rafter system and roofing material lies in the fact that between them it is necessary to fit, protecting wooden structures from unexpected leaks from the side of the roofing. This is a kind of insurance policy. Mainly used on rooftops waterproofing material roll type, which is laid in strips from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap of 20-30 cm and fastening to the rafter legs. The film is laid with a slight sag in case of thermal tension or expansion, plus the edges of adjacent strips must be fastened with adhesive tape or self-adhesive tape.
Then the rafters are stuffed along wooden slats, which are called a counter-lattice, and already on them are mounted transverse rails, called the crate. Roofing material with fasteners is laid on the latter.
The inside view of the attic is rafter legs covered with a waterproofing layer on top. It is this design that will have to. The question of how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands, we emphasize - with your own hands - requires, first of all, the definition of a heater, or rather, its choice. Because not all modern thermal insulation materials can be used independently. But we will deal with all, and be sure to designate the best of them.
Mansard roof insulation
It should be noted that the slope of the slopes that define the walls of the attic is a cellular structure formed by rafter legs. It is between them that it will be necessary to lay the heat-insulating material. Therefore, the main requirement for the latter is to be dense with clear forms. So, for the insulation of the mansard roof of a private house, it will be necessary to choose board material. Such heaters include mineral wool in mats and polystyrene foam boards, also known as high-density foam.
But, as mentioned above, today the market offers completely unique technologies for insulation that do not use dense materials. One of them, which showed itself from the most positive side, is liquid polyurethane foam. Let's start in order and consider each insulation separately.
Mineral wool
The definition of mineral wool includes several varieties of this building material: glass wool, slag wool, stone variety. When it comes to attic insulation, it is necessary to talk about the basalt variety, as the best to date. It is its technical characteristics that we will consider.
Basically, basalt wool is divided by density. There are four positions here:
- P-75- used for insulation of pipes and horizontal surfaces;
- P-125- this is exactly the same material that is used to insulate the walls of the attic from the inside with your own hands;
- PZh-175- for thermal insulation of metal and structures;
- PPZh-200- a very dense material used for thermal insulation of rigid load-bearing structures.
Styrofoam boards
Often this material is called foam, which is true. Just from the variety that is used for packaging, polystyrene foam boards differ in density. Therefore, the material itself is very hard and durable, well withstanding mechanical stress and moisture.
We will immediately make a reservation that such material is not recommended for insulation due to its high flammability and the love of rodents. But if you still intend to use it, then to insulate the attic roof, it is better to take expanded polystyrene plates with a density of at least 25 kg / m³.
Polyurethane foam (PPU)
It is a two-component thermal insulation material consisting of polyol and polyisocyanate. The two components are supplied separately in different containers, but during the application process they are mixed in one container and are supplied under pressure to the thermal insulation areas through a hose and a spray gun. In fact, polyurethane foam is a liquid substance that quickly hardens in air, turning into a solid and fairly durable coating.
The thermal conductivity characteristic is taken as the basis for the quality of heaters. Comparing the three types, it can be noted that the weakest among them is mineral wool, the most ideal is polyurethane foam.
But this does not mean that everyone should use PPU. This material is not the cheapest, and it will require special equipment to apply it. True, it should be noted that equipment manufacturers today offer mini-stations, the weight of which is only 30 kg. It contains two containers with components, hoses and a nozzle. The compressor will need to be purchased separately, but it is better to take it from friends or rent it.
And a few more varieties thermal insulation materials, which are less often used in do-it-yourself roof insulation from the inside.
glass wool
Ecowool
Penofol
How to insulate an attic for winter living - video and nuances of the ongoing process
So, we decided on thermal insulation materials. Now consider how to properly insulate the mansard roof with each.
Attention! When insulating the attic, it is necessary to adhere to two main nuances: the thickness of the layer to be laid should be equal to the width of the rafter legs, the width of the insulation should be equal to a little more than the distance between the rafters.
Warming the attic with mineral wool from the inside with your own hands: video and photo instructions
| Photo | Description of works |
 | Mineral wool is laid out on the floor of the attic. The required width is measured, which corresponds to the distance between the rafters, plus 2-3 cm. This is done so that the insulation enters between the elements of the truss system without leaving. |
 | Now a piece of insulation cut to the required dimensions must be laid between the rafter legs. If the slope of the roof slope is sufficiently gentle, then the heat-insulating material under its own weight may fall out of the cell. |
 | Therefore, transverse slats are stuffed along the rafters from the inside, which are temporarily attached to the rafter legs. |
 | Instead of rails, you can use a strong thread, which is pulled through the studs driven in a checkerboard pattern along the inner planes of the rafter legs. |
 | Insulation is being laid under the stuffed rails. |
 | It remains only to close the heat-insulating cake with a waterproofing film. Its purpose is to keep moist air vapor from penetrating into the heat-insulating layer. Because mineral wool is a hygroscopic material, and under the influence of humidity, it begins to lose its properties. |
 | The waterproofing membrane is nailed with nails or metal staples to the rafter legs. Laying is carried out in overlapping strips, starting from the bottom up. |
Attention! If one layer of mineral wool is not enough to insulate the attic roof from the inside with your own hands to cover the width of the rafter legs, then a two-layer installation is performed. In this case, the material slabs must be laid with an offset relative to each other. Joints between plates in one layer must not be allowed to coincide with joints in the second layer.
Insulation of the attic with foam
As mentioned above, it is not recommended to use polystyrene foam boards for attic insulation. One of their main advantages is low, almost zero, water absorption. Therefore, there is no need to arrange protective layers for this insulation. That is, if during the construction of the roof under the roofing material a hydro- or vapor barrier membrane was not used, then PP boards are the cheapest option for thermal insulation.
| Photo | Description of works |
 | As in the case of mineral wool, styrofoam boards are cut to the size of the distance between the rafter legs. |
 | Slabs cut to size are laid in the truss system. It is necessary to indicate that there should be a space between the insulation and the roofing material, which will be used in the future, as it removes not only moist air vapor, but also some harmful components of the heat-insulating material itself. Without the formation of this gap, the PP cannot be laid. |
 | Another layer is already laid on top of the rafters. Its main task is to cover the entire surface with itself and prevent cold air from passing between the first layer and the rafters, because it is very difficult to lay PP boards tightly to the rafter structure. The second layer is fastened to the rafters with self-tapping screws with a wide metal washer. |
Insulation of roofs of different geometries
The methods of thermal insulation of a pitched roof have been described above, in which the slope is one plane. But attics are also being formed under sloping roofs, so the issue of insulating a sloping roof from the inside is no less relevant today. In principle, there are no serious differences in the technology itself, especially with regard to the use of polyurethane foam. It is simply sprayed in one layer, without joints.
A broken roof has a junction of two types of rafters, which form a hall. It is this area that is the most dangerous in terms of the penetration of cold air from the outside. Therefore, at the junction of the two systems, it is necessary to carry out the butt laying of heaters without butt. This works best if mineral wool is used. It is flexible, so that it can be shaped into a bend, that is, a transition from one slope to another.
With a sloping roof, an attic room is rarely left without a ceiling. It is built at the transition level. Therefore, two slopes are insulated, located in the same transitional plane, then the ceiling itself is necessarily insulated. In some cases, if it is difficult to carry out the thermal insulation of the upper slope or the task is to save money, then the thermal insulation of the upper slope is not carried out, limited to the insulation of the ceiling.
What mistakes can occur when insulating the attic from the inside
Answering the question of how to properly insulate the roof of a house from the inside of an attic room with your own hands, you need to understand that this process itself is simple (not counting the use of polyurethane foam). But in order for the final result to correspond to a high degree of quality, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of the technology and strictly follow the recommendations of specialists and manufacturers of thermal insulation materials. So, what to look for:
- Mineral wool should only be laid if there is a vapor barrier under the roofing material. Its main purpose is to remove air vapors that are located in the insulation itself.
- There must be a gap between the heat-insulating cake and the roofing, which is used for ventilation of the roof. Therefore, the roofing material is laid on the crate, which is mounted on the counter-crate.
- If the angle of inclination of the slopes is less than 13 °, then it is better not to organize an attic under such a roof. at this angle it comes off weakly, so there is a high probability of leakage.
- If skylights are installed on the roof slopes, then care must be taken to install them tightly. It is better not to do it yourself, call the experts.
- If the thickness of the acquired insulation is greater than the width of the rafter legs, then the slats can be pierced along the lower edges of the latter.
So, we examined how to properly insulate the roof of a private house from the attic side. If you have any questions, you can leave them in the comments. The editors of our site will definitely answer them.
To date, the insulation of the mansard roof is very popular in construction.
The construction of houses with mansard roofs is very relevant in the suburban area and is widespread.
Attic houses are not only very presentable externally, but also provide an opportunity to increase the usable area from the inside.
Their only drawback is the scheme of full contact of the walls and ceiling of the attic with the street, which creates certain problems with thermal insulation.
This can cause a loss of about 30% of heat and create condensation from the inside.
This is due to the fact that warm air, as it rises, will collide with cold roof, which will subsequently lead to the occurrence of fungi, mold, and possibly rot.
Therefore, if you do not want to have all these problems, then it is better to take care of thermal insulation in advance. The article tells how to make the insulation of the attic roof correctly.
Varieties of heaters
- Minvata ( comfortable material, which is slightly compressed during installation, after which it straightens itself and fits exactly into the nest);
- Polyurethane foam (sprayed directly onto the surface);
- Ecowool (the content of the antiseptic in the composition prevents damage to the insulation and wood);
- Styrofoam (lightweight material that does not weigh down the roof).
Polyfoam is one of the most popular. Styrofoam is used for insulation of pitched and flat roof and most importantly, it is ideal for ceilings in the attic floor.
Styrofoam insulation can be carried out both on an open roof and after laying the roofing.
Why styrofoam?
The material has undeniable advantages, thanks to which it occupies one of the leading positions in the market.
Here are the main ones:
- Polyfoam has low absorbency, so moisture simply flows down it without getting inside the material;
- It is light in weight, which significantly reduces the load from the inside on the roof structure;
- Quite easy to install;
- Has a low cost;
- Conforms to accepted heat conduction standard.
If you decide to use foam, then you should not forget about the two main disadvantages, such as vapor impermeability and high flammability.
You can avoid them if you good ventilation attic and adhere to established fire safety standards.
Room preparation
Before you buy materials and start warming the house, you need to study and prepare the room from the inside as best as possible, especially if you plan to do all the work yourself.
For this you need:
If you plan to insulate the roof of the house with your own hands, then when choosing foam sheets, do not forget about some important points:
- It is necessary to choose the right size of the sheets so that during the installation of the elements, their joints are as small as possible;
- Proper insulation of the house is carried out with polystyrene foam along a broken line, the thickness of which is at least 10 mm .;
- The higher the density of the material, the greater its strength under mechanical stress and the better the thermal insulation;
- Read the specifications on the package. Buy only quality material.
Remember: the foam has good sound conductivity and it is better to buy an additional layer of special sound insulation (at least 5 cm thick) and install it from the inside of the decorative sheathing.
At correct device do-it-yourself installation, all external sounds will be absorbed by the soundproofing layer, and will not disturb the peace and quiet in your home.
Mounting technology
The insulation of the mansard roof from the inside is quite simple and its scheme is quite suitable for properly installing the material with your own hands.
First you need to lay the waterproofing film.
That's right, use a special roofing film (Izospan is most often taken), with a broken membrane structure that releases steam only in one direction, from inside the room to the outside.
The film is laid on top of the rafters across, without stretching along the entire length of the roof (do-it-yourself device assumes a possible slight sagging).
Make sure that a smooth water vapor barrier is on the outside. The next strip of film is laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm, and special adhesive tape is used to glue the joints.
When installing with your own hands, remember that an air gap must be left between the layer of films and the crate.
To do this, five-centimeter bars are nailed on the rafters on top of the film, boards for the crate are installed on the bars, and only after that, the roofing is laid.
Styrofoam sheets are laid between the rafters, excluding any gaps. You can cut them with a clerical or ordinary long knife using a metal ruler.
Sheets with insulation are attached to the rafters using auxiliary rails or polystyrene glue.
If the rafters have a circular cross section, then fixing with glue is not enough.
Proper fastening is done by filing from the boards, which will hold the foam layer in several places.
After laying, voids may remain along the broken line, they can be filled with construction foam.
Useful advice: to increase the service life of foam sheets, experts recommend using, in addition to glue, mounting screws and dowels.
This fastening prolongs the shelf life and reliability of the design.
If you do not remove the space along the broken line, then cold air and condensate will accumulate from the inside, causing smudges and rotting processes.
To exclude this, you can lay sheets with foam in 2 layers also along a broken line, top layer closing the bottom seams. The top and bottom layers are glued together.
For additional soundproofing of the space, soundproofing mats made of fibrous material are used.
It should be remembered that the fiber absorbs moisture well, so it must be covered with a vapor barrier anti-condensation film.
The film is overlapped along a broken line, while gluing the joints and fixing it on the rafters (filing), construction or furniture stapler.
With the help of wooden bars or profiles that serve as guides, the skin is attached.
When choosing their thickness, remember that it is necessary to leave a space for ventilation of at least 3-5 cm. For sheathing, natural materials are mainly used, on which condensation cannot form.
