Repair and decoration of any room is not complete without drywall. The material is a layer of gypsum covered on both sides with cardboard. Used for installing partitions, finishing wall surfaces. It can be used to create complex multi-level suspended structures ceilings, arches of complex configuration, finishing niches in the walls and making built-in wardrobes with open shelves.
Drywall is classified as a universal construction and finishing material that is used in all structural planes of the building. For ceiling works use more thin sheets plasterboard, 9 mm thick, their size is 1.2 x 2.5 m. Wall sheets are 12 mm thick, 1.2 x 3.0 m in size.
For work under normal conditions, standard plasterboard is used. beige colour, for the installation of moisture-resistant partitions, green sheets are used, and the construction of structures in fire hazardous areas will require a gray tint to the surface of the material.
Sometimes attaching plasterboard to a frame is not possible due to the small size of the room, for example, on a balcony, loggia, in utility rooms, or when reconstructing plumbing units in an apartment. If the structure of the frame “steals” such necessary centimeters, then it is allowed to attach sheets of material directly to the wall.
Features of fastening drywall without a profile
What you need to prepare for work
Tools
- Drywall knife, spare blade block.
- Drywall saw or electric jigsaw.
- Strong thread to create a level plane, nails or screws to secure to the wall.
- Construction level, plumb line, pencil, scraper for cleaning the edges of the sheet.
- Drill and whisk for solution, bucket for mixing.
- Spatula, hammer, rubber mallet, pliers, Phillips screwdriver.
Materials for work
- Sheets of wall plasterboard.
- Dry glue for working on drywall. It is allowed to use starting putty with the addition of building gypsum or PVA glue in an amount of 10%.
- Water and primer for surface adhesion.
- Dowels ranging in size from 80 to 120 mm.
- Mesh for gluing serpyanka seams and glue.
How to attach drywall to a wall without profiles
Surface preparation
If the wall is made of brick or concrete, then preparatory work include cleaning the surface from deposits and splashes of solution. Next, the surface is primed with an impregnating composition. The impregnation should be diluted according to the instructions on the package, since each manufacturer makes a different composition of soil concentration. If it is written that the soil is ready for use, then there is no need to dilute it.
If there is old plaster on the wall, you need to inspect it and identify weak, lagging areas, which can be knocked down and repaired with mortar. Then treat with primer.
Drywall should not be attached to walls in rooms where the walls are constantly damp, moisture is transferred from an uninsulated foundation or enters from the roof. Frameless mounting is not allowed on walls that are subject to constant condensation due to non-compliance with the wall thickness according to thermal engineering calculations.
Before fixing drywall, inspect it using a level and plumb line to identify the greatest deviations from the vertical and in alignment. If possible, the bulging areas are knocked down, and large depressions are reduced by applying a layer of solution.
All markings with a pencil or chalk are applied to the walls after priming, otherwise the impregnation will blur the marks and everything will have to be repeated again. Drywall sheets are also covered with primer on the side where they are attached to the wall. Cut beacons from sheet waste are primed on both sides and left to dry.
If necessary, electrical wiring is installed, which will be hidden by reinforced sheets on top. If the wire runs on protruding sections of the wall, then make a groove to recess the wire.
Fastening drywall without beacons to a relatively flat surface
Dilute dry glue with water in a container using a mixer. Stirring by hand is also allowed, but it will require more effort and time. First, water is poured, and then the dry mixture is poured into it.
If there is a need to add PVA glue to the putty mixture, first mix it in water and then pour the putty. It will not be possible to add polyvinyl acetate glue to the ready-mixed putty, since the solution will quickly harden and turn into stone.
The glue is applied to the edges of the sheet along the entire perimeter in a continuous strip. In the center, cakes are made from the solution at a distance of 0.4 m in a checkerboard pattern. The total area of glue or putty applied to the surface must be more than 1/10 of the sheet area for reliable fastening.
The sheet is installed vertically and pressed over the entire area. It's better to do this with a helper. After this, the level of fastening is checked. If it does not meet expectations, then the material is pressed harder in certain places. For this purpose, enough solution is applied to the sheet to account for such adjustment. It is possible to remove an already rooted sheet from the wall to apply mortar, but this can lead to a violation of its integrity, in other words, it may break if it comes off.
Some installers hold the sheet in the correct position for about 20 minutes to allow the solution to set, others grab it in this position with dowels, trying not to disturb the level.
Fastening drywall to a curved wall using beacons
If the wall is inclined or has a rotation in the plane, then to attach the drywall you need to make a special layer in the largest depressions. First, the curvature of the wall is measured. A sheet of material is placed against the wall and drilled through with self-tapping screws in the depressions, so that they make a mark on the wall. The sheet is removed and the screws are unscrewed.
A net is made with a strong thread that will show the desired verticality and plane. Next, in the places of the marks on the wall from the self-tapping screws, one or several layers of rectangles from drywall waste are attached with glue. All of them must be pre-primed with impregnation. These overlays are placed so that on top they touch the thread frame.
An adhesive mixture is applied to the sheet, placing it, as in the previous version, around the perimeter and in the middle of the sheet, only Special attention paid attention to placing the cakes in place from drilling screws that will coincide with the plates on the wall.
The sheet is lifted into a vertical position and pressed against the wall, matching all the required places. Fix for setting and move on to the next sheet. The thread frame and overlays are made simultaneously on the entire wall, and not on each sheet separately.
After fixing the problem areas with dowels, seal the seams between the sheets using putty and sickle.
Installation of drywall without frame on a wooden wall
To perform this type of work, the use of putty or glue is not required; sheets of material are attached to wooden surface without gluing with simple screws or wood screws, made with countersunk heads. Places from drilled heads in drywall are sealed with putty.
If there is curvature and unevenness of the wall, then it is leveled using additional wooden overlays of different thicknesses. The bulges of the tree are cut with a plane or saw.
Certainly, the best option is to fasten drywall with a frame, but, having understood the intricacies, they attach the material directly to the wall, trying to maintain the required level. There are many videos that show the mount without a profile. If you miscalculate and the curvature nevertheless appears, individual places can be corrected by applying small layers of putty through a putty mesh.
Options for fastening gypsum board without profiles
Anton Tsugunov
Reading time: 4 minutes
Do you want to line the partitions in your apartment with plasterboard, but it’s a pity to lose precious centimeters that are already missing? Install drywall on unframed walls. This method is even simpler - you don’t have to bother with installing the profile. It will save space and create no less ideal surfaces. Even without extensive experience in repairs, you can cope with this task on your own.
Advantages of leveling gypsum board walls without a frame
This method of installing a gypsum board sheet:
- Economical in materials.
- Takes less time.
- Produces less debris and dirt.
- Installation and finishing are completely done by yourself, so you can feel like a pro.
To install gypsum board sheets on the wall, you need to purchase special adhesives. The most popular of them are the Knauf and Volma mixtures. You can also mix gypsum putty with a small amount of PVA glue.
The essence of the frameless method of fastening a gypsum board sheet
Installation of drywall on walls without a frame is carried out using a special compound. They glue the sheet onto base surface. The joints are puttied and reinforced with tape. After priming the wall is ready for finishing– wallpaper is pasted on it, decorative slabs, or painting at your discretion.
Since the sheets themselves are small in thickness, the overall area of the room is almost not affected. They are convenient to use when leveling the walls of small rooms: bathroom, storage room, loggia, and in other places where every centimeter of space is important.
Preparing walls for gluing plasterboard sheets
Before you begin installing drywall without a frame, you must.
- It is easier to remove wallpaper with a spatula after wetting it with water using a sponge or spray bottle. An excellent soaking effect is obtained when using a steam generator.
Paint with concrete wall it is difficult to remove, but necessary, otherwise the composition for gluing gypsum plasterboard will either not stick to it or will tear it off from the base. As a result, the sheet will not hold.
- Old plaster is tapped to detect hidden delaminations. Remove damaged and suspicious parts to a solid base.
If the layer of plaster is thick over the entire wall, it makes sense to remove it entirely using a hammer drill or a hammer and chisel. This will help save additional centimeters of usable space.
Additional wall treatment
Proper wall treatment before attaching drywall sheets to an unframed wall is extremely important.
- Inspect the wall itself - repair cracks, fill in holes from old communications, and apply mortar to the places where large pieces of plaster have fallen out.
- If necessary, make recesses for sockets, switches and wiring. Wires and junction boxes must be installed.
The latest generation of wire insulation means you don’t have to pack them in fireproof corrugation, so you just need to attach them to the wall with clamps.
- Remove debris, use a brush or vacuum cleaner to collect dust from the walls and floor.
- To ensure that the glue adheres firmly to the surface of the wall, it is primed evenly. In areas with fresh plaster, the primer is absorbed more strongly, so here it is applied in two or even three layers.
When installed under the gypsum board sheets, a poorly ventilated air gap remains. In rooms with high humidity, they create optimal conditions for development various kinds rot and fungus. Treating the base wall with an antiseptic will help avoid this danger.
- Since the gypsum board sheet has large dimensions (2500 x 1200 mm), clear a suitable flat area on the floor for working with it.
GCR can be installed only when the wall is completely dry, after all the procedures have been carried out.
Technology of frameless installation of plasterboard sheets
Before gluing drywall to the wall, you need to set the general level. By using installation rule and plumb line measure vertical deviations of the surface. The length of the wall alignment line is marked on the floor and ceiling.
A sheet of gypsum board is cut out onto the entire wall at once. To reduce the amount of work, it is better to buy sheets the height of the room or larger. Then you won’t have to adjust and putty the horizontal joints.
GCR can be attached to walls in two ways.
Attaching the sheet with glue
The fastening technology will differ slightly depending on the degree of curvature of the walls.
If the differences on the wall are less than 4 mm, then the adhesive composition is evenly applied to the perimeter of the gypsum board sheet using a notched trowel. The sheet is placed in the chosen place, pressed and leveled by applying a rule to the surface and tapping it rubber mallet, not forgetting to check the building level.
Important! The adhesive solution sets quickly. Find out experimentally what volume needs to be diluted in order to have time to produce it in one go.
A wall with a level difference of up to 2 cm will require thicker glue. It is applied to the surface of a sheet of drywall in cakes about 5 cm high at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Installation is carried out similarly to the method described above.
If the wall has differences of 4 cm or more, it is necessary extra work. In the recesses it is necessary to glue additional beacons from gypsum board scraps. There is another method: fill in the right place polyurethane foam, and after it dries, cut it at a general level.
Subsequently, the adhesive composition is applied to the dried beacons and directly to the wall. The sheet is pressed against the glue and aligned in all directions.
Fastening the sheet to the wall using polyurethane foam
Covering walls with this method is more labor-intensive, but it will provide greater reliability of fastening, regardless of the curvature of the surface.
- The gypsum board sheet is pressed against the wall. In its corners, and in another 4–6 places, holes are drilled in the wall, making marks. The sheet is moved to the side, and the resulting marks are drilled out and dowels driven into them.
- On the sheet, stepping back from the holes by 10–15 centimeters, glue pieces of the shock absorber (foam rubber, foam rubber). This distance is necessary for free expansion of the foam. The thickness of the sponge depends on the differences on the wall. Ideally they should be the same.
- The sheet is placed against the wall. Screws with wide heads or an attached washer are screwed into the dowels. They also regulate the level, creating a flat surface. The remaining sheets are installed in the same way.
- After checking the rule, a hole is drilled near each self-tapping screw. The tube for pumping polyurethane foam should fit into it without effort. Foam is pumped into the cavity through the hole. It should form a cushion between the wall and the sheet. The amount of foam is determined experimentally in advance. After the foam has hardened, the screws are removed.
Don't rush to finish the wall decorative materials. The adhesive base sets quickly, but it will take at least a day to dry completely.
A few words about safety precautions
Working with gypsum boards generates quite a lot of dust. Inhaling it will not add health to anyone, so it is better to protect yourself with a respirator. You should also ensure that dust does not penetrate into living spaces by curtaining the openings with a damp cloth.
Drywall firmly occupies the position of one of the most popular among construction and finishing materials, and this is easily explained by its many advantages. These include its environmental friendliness, ease of installation, the ability to use in the most different rooms, relatively small weight and generally available cost.
Plasterboard sheets are used for leveling walls and for, moreover, working with them is possible not only an experienced builder, but also for the beginning master. Finishing walls with plasterboard without a frame and profile is possible using different adhesives and on surfaces built from various materials. The advantages of such fastening compared to the frame method are that the reduction in the area of the room is not so noticeable, a decent amount of money is saved on the sheathing elements, and the installation work itself proceeds quite quickly and can easily be done on its own.
Basic methods of installing drywall on a wall surface
To appreciate the advantage of frameless installation of drywall, you can briefly consider both existing methods by comparing them.
To be fair, it should be noted that sometimes when installing drywall it is impossible to do without installing a frame, so this case is also worth mentioning when considering methods for installing the material.
So, there are two main technologies for attaching plasterboard sheets to the wall in order to level it:
- Installation of sheets using self-tapping screws on a frame made of metal profile or wooden beam. This method is chosen in cases where the wall requires additional thermal or sound insulation, and insulation material is installed exactly in frame structure, or if the wall has very large distortions that are difficult to level with plaster layers.
- Fixing sheets to the wall using self-tapping screws and polyurethane foam or using an adhesive composition made on a gypsum basis. Self-tapping screws and foam for fixing drywall are used if you need to sheathe not only wooden wall, but also surfaces made from other materials that require correction. Adhesive gypsum composition is more often used for leveling concrete or brick wall. However, it should immediately be noted that frame method Drywall fastenings should only be used when the walls have a height not exceeding 3000 mm.
This publication will consider the nuances of only frameless fastening of drywall.
Required materials and tools
Set of tools
To level walls with plasterboard using one of the adhesives, you will need much fewer tools than if a frame was attached to the wall. The list of everything necessary consists of the following items:
- Plumb, building level and as a rule, preferably 1500 mm long - to control the evenness of the original wall and the created vertical plane.
- Electric jigsaw or sharp utility knife - for cutting drywall.
- Rulers of different lengths, a square, a tape measure and a simple pencil - for marking.
- Wide, medium and narrow spatula, as well as possibly a trowel (trowel) - for applying and distributing the solution.
- Construction float – for processing putty surfaces.
- Roller and brush - for treating walls with primer.
- Rubber hammer - for adjusting plasterboard sheets glued to the wall.
- Electric drill and mixer attachment - for mixing the solution.
- In some cases it will be necessary for additional fixation with self-tapping screws.
Drywall prices
drywall
Necessary materials
Now it is necessary to consider the materials that will be required to prepare the surface of the walls and for high-quality installation of drywall:
- Primer solution with antiseptic additives.
- Gypsum-based putty mixture, base and finishing.
- Dry construction mixture - drywall adhesive, or polyurethane foam.
- Serpyanka mesh tape - for sealing joints between sheets.
- Long self-tapping screws may be required to level the wall by adjusting the plasterboard sheets. The size of the fastening elements will depend on the flatness of the surface, taking into account the fact that they must be recessed into the wall by 50÷60 mm.
- One of the leveling technologies will require pieces of foam rubber - this will be discussed in due course.
About some materials - a little more detail.
Drywall
The Knauf company produces not only a variety of construction and finishing mixtures, but also plasterboard sheets for various purposes - it is a simple, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant and moisture-fire-resistant finishing material:
- Ordinary drywall (GKL or, according to the Knauf proprietary classification - GSP-A) is used for rooms with normal humidity.
- Moisture-resistant sheets (GKLV or GSP-N2) can be used to level walls in bathrooms or bathrooms. After treating such a surface, ceramic tiles will fit perfectly on it.
- Fire-resistant sheets (GKLO or GSP-DF) are used for finishing walls around fireplaces, stoves, and chimneys.
- Fire- and moisture-resistant plasterboard (GKLVO or GSP-DFN2) is well suited for finishing walls in boiler rooms of private houses, in attic and attic spaces.
Here we can also briefly say about it, which does not require special effort, experience and special tools - it is enough to have an ordinary sharp stationery knife on hand. The cutting process takes place in the following order:
- The sheet is placed on solid foundation- it could be big table, floor or several stools placed side by side at some distance from each other.
- Then, using a tape measure or ruler, the sheet is marked, with a simple pencil the necessary lines are drawn.
- The next step is to draw a knife along the drawn line, also along the ruler, which should cut upper layer cardboard
- The sheet is moved to the edge of a hard surface and laid on it along the cut line.
- Then, pressure is applied to the edge of the drywall that extends beyond the base, which will cause the sheet to break along the cut line.
- The last step is cutting the cardboard on the other side of the sheet.
Installation of plasterboard sheets is carried out in two main ways: on the frame or directly on the wall surface. In most cases, plasterboard is attached to walls without a frame in rooms with a small area, since the lathing takes up a lot of space and narrows the space. How and in what way frameless installation is carried out will be discussed in this article.
The frameless method of installing drywall is most often used in rooms with small areas.
Advantages and disadvantages of frameless drywall installation
The frameless fastening method has the following advantages:
- Saving money spent on installation of sheathing.
- Quick installation. Basically, the duration of installation work is caused by the construction of the frame, and in its absence the process accelerates.
- This method allows you to save more free space, since the lathing takes up at least 5 cm of the usable area of each wall.
Flaws:
- At high humidity plasterboard walls will quickly deteriorate even with the use of moisture-resistant material.
- Finishing walls with plasterboard without a frame and profile is possible only with minor surface unevenness.
- The maximum permissible difference is 2 cm, but no more. For more significant differences, it is necessary to level the surface or use another method of fastening finishing material.
- Using frameless method there is no way to hide communications.
Preparing everything you need
To attach drywall without a frame, you need to plan the work and prepare everything you need:
Tools and material:
- Jigsaw.
- Drywall (the quantity is calculated taking into account the area of the walls of the room).
- Gypsum mixture.
- Level.
- Roulette.
- Container for diluting adhesive solution.
- Metal brush.
- Plaster mortar.
- Putty knife.
- Primer.
- Hammer.
Take measurements of the room and, based on the results obtained, cut the material. Measurements are also necessary to select the most appropriate option for the location of the material. In case of exceeding standard height premises (2.5 m), it is necessary to prepare special inserts that will close the resulting gaps.
When calculating and cutting the material, you need to take into account that the arrangement of the sheets should be offset - to prevent the appearance of cross-shaped joints.
Before installing drywall, you need to prepare the wall: clean it of whitewash, wallpaper and paint. Existing holes must be plastered.
Alignment of walls
Preparation and leveling of walls plays an important role in the long-term operation of plasterboard coating. The complexity of their preparation lies in the material from which they are made.
The most suitable and convenient option are the walls made of brickwork, which will only need to be coated with a primer.
If the walls are plastered, it is necessary to remove this coating, as it may fall off over time and deform the slab from the inside.
All other coatings, such as whitewash, old wallpaper, paint, also need to be removed.
The surface preparation process should be carried out in the following sequence:
- Tapping walls to identify weak spots and remove them.
- Removing the old coating.
- Plastering the resulting pits during the tapping process.
- Cleaning the surface from dust.
- Prime the walls with a deeply penetrating compound.
- Plasterboard sheets should also be primed.
A primer is necessary in order to preserve the finishing material from the appearance of mold, since primers have antibacterial properties that prevent the growth of fungus.
Solution and methods of its use
Gypsum is used as a fixing solution. As an option, you can use starting putty or alabaster, but to increase adhesion you need to add wallpaper glue or PVA to the solution.
How to apply the solution for different unevenness:
- If the difference in unevenness is 5 mm, the solution is applied to a sheet of drywall in a thin layer along the edges and in the center.
- For differences from 5 to 20 mm, a special adhesive composition is applied pointwise, in increments of 25 - 30 cm.
- If the differences reach 40 mm, then you first need to attach small pieces of plasterboard to the wall using glue, onto which, after the glue has dried, the main slabs will be attached.
- If it exceeds 40 mm, the method of frameless installation of finishing material is unacceptable.
Methods for frameless fastening of drywall
Sheathing walls with plasterboard without a frame is carried out in two ways, the choice of which is made based on the characteristics of the room being repaired.
There are several cladding options: gluing sheets to the wall and using self-tapping screws.
Gluing plasterboard sheets to the base of the walls
This is the easiest way to finish interior surfaces.
Gluing technology:
- First of all, you need to prepare wooden pegs for placing them under the sheets of drywall. They are necessary to obtain small gaps between the sheet and the floor (1 cm). Gaps must also be made between the sheets - no more than 0.5 cm.
- The adhesive is applied to the sheet in the manner that is most suitable.
- As quickly as possible, but very carefully, the material is glued to the wall.
- Using a level, the unevenness of the coating is adjusted by tapping problem areas with a rubber hammer.
- After tapping, you should again carefully check the entire surface for evenness before the solution hardens.
- After leveling the surface, the plasterboard board is supported with a wooden plank.
The alignment of the sheets must be done very carefully, since drywall is very fragile and can easily become deformed.
Once the finishing material is attached, the joints are covered with fiberglass mesh and puttied. The roughness obtained as a result of the work is cleaned sandpaper. After cleaning the surface from dust, it is primed and covered with the chosen method.
Installation of drywall with self-tapping screws
This method is more practical than the previous one, but the installation technology is also a little more difficult. When applying this method, you need to add polyurethane foam and thick foam rubber to the base materials.
Fastening technology:
- Having attached the cut plasterboard sheets to the wall, drill holes in 10 places that will serve as a marker.
- After removing the slab, anchors are driven in at the marks.
- Pieces of foam rubber (10 cm from the holes) are glued to the plate, which will serve as a shock absorber.
- If there are sockets and switches on the wall, holes are immediately cut in the drywall for them.
- Leaning the sheet against the wall, fasten it using self-tapping screws.
- Leveling the surface is done by unscrewing or tightening the screws.
- For high-quality fixation, holes with a diameter of 5 mm are made next to the screws, through which the mounting foam will be poured.
- After the sealant has hardened, the self-tapping screws are removed, and the holes after them are filled with putty.
- The final stage is gluing the seams and puttingty them, followed by sanding the surface.
Before pouring polyurethane foam, you need to first practice with the dosage. After the sealant comes out, you should get a spot no larger than 15 cm in diameter.
To summarize, we can say that installing drywall without a frame is a fairly acceptable way to level walls, which can be done by almost anyone without any special skills. To do this, it is necessary to correctly calculate and cut the material, as well as decide on the method of frameless fastening of drywall. If all requirements for the wall surface are met, the material will last a long time.
Among the variety of modern building materials, there are undoubted bestsellers that are used everywhere, are versatile and are extremely popular among builders. Drywall is a well-deserved leader in wall decoration; it is affordable and easy to use. Having studied in detail the properties and specifications using this wonderful material, as well as following the technology, you can make repairs using drywall yourself without the involvement of expensive specialists and reduce costs by choosing the best option for the price, because there are several ways to correctly attach drywall to the wall.
Pros and cons of using drywall in repairs
A gypsum panel, covered on both sides with thick cardboard, has amazing strength for soft, crumbling gypsum; it can be cut, sawed, and planed. Drywall is indispensable when leveling walls and ceilings, erecting partitions, arches, and architectural structures of complex shapes.
Walls with figured niches and multi-level ceilings, columns and openings are easily constructed using GC
Repair using gypsum plasterboard has a number of advantages:
- perfectly smooth walls, smooth surface which is ready for painting or other finishing, including any types of wallpaper and tiles;
- low weight does not create a load on the wall and frame, has sufficient strength;
- does not support combustion, there are fireproof gypsum plasterboard models;
- comfortable standard sizes sheet, different thickness depending on construction tasks and affordable price;
- ease of processing, cutting and installation, holds fasteners perfectly;
- ample opportunities for the implementation of creative ideas and the most daring design ideas;
- environmental safety allows you to sheathe walls even in children’s rooms;
- communications and insulation can be hidden under the panels;
The disadvantages of using the material include:
- eats up some room space, not suitable for small areas;
- afraid of getting wet; for use in conditions of high humidity, waterproof types are produced with the GKLV marking;
- breaks and crumbles when bent, so it requires caution when working.
There are two ways to install drywall on a wall - with or without a frame. The second method is considered more complicated. Let's consider both options in detail.
How to properly attach drywall to a wall with a profile
Beautiful complex partitions and smooth surfaces are created on the basis special frame made of aluminum or galvanized steel profile. It slightly reduces the space of the room, but it hides all defects and unevenness of the walls, allows for additional insulation of the room and has high vapor permeability and sound absorption.
Such elements can only be made on the basis of a frame Required materials and tools
To work, you should study the step-by-step instructions, draw a sketch of the room indicating the dimensions and mark the location of the frame and panels, calculate the material consumption and prepare the following tools and materials:
- tape measure, level, ruler, pencil;
- hammer drill, drill with mixer attachment, screwdriver;
- dowels, self-tapping screws, screws;
- wooden blocks measuring 30x50cm or galvanized profile to create a frame, hangers, crabs;
- regular and rubber hammer, serpyanka;
- construction knife for cutting drywall;
- special glue based on cement or gypsum, a clean container for diluting it, a spatula;
- roller, brush and trowel, stepladder;
- putty for grouting seams and fastener heads;
- plasterboard sheets: for living rooms- GKL, for the bathroom and kitchen - GKLV. To calculate the consumption of panels, you need to subtract the areas of window and doorways and add 10–15% for possible waste. The panel length should be selected based on the ceiling height, 2.5 m or 3 m, so that the surface is covered with a single sheet.
Preparatory work
GKL sheets can be attached to various types reasons, everyone has their own technological features. Before installation work it is necessary to prepare the surface. Here are the main stages of work:
- Take off old finishing, remove dirt, dust and inspect the walls.
- For the frame method, leveling the rough base is not required; it must be treated with antiseptic impregnation.
- Using a tape measure, measure the dimensions of the wall and make markings indicating the exact locations of the profiles and hangers. The minimum thickness of the frame is 4.5 cm, a layer of insulation or unevenness on the walls adds thickness and marks the corresponding points on the ceiling and floor.
On a wall with a window, markings should start there - Using a plumb line, draw vertical lines with a pitch of 60 cm - the places where the racks are attached. suspensions, and the distance from the upper and lower guides to the suspensions should be at least 25 cm.
- For creating wooden sheathing you should fill the slats with self-tapping screws or nails vertically in increments of 60 cm, placing veneer or plywood pads under them. Such a frame should be impregnated with an antiseptic.
- Cut the aluminum profile into equal pieces. The UD guide profile is attached to the ceiling and floor, as well as to the walls with dowels in increments of 30–40 cm, verticality is checked with a plumb line. To ensure that the plane of the frame is at the same level, hangers are used; it is enough to fix each plank at two points.
All electrical work carried out before installing the frame - Fix the supporting profile strictly according to the markings, connecting the vertical and horizontal planks with special crabs. If necessary, the structure can be strengthened using horizontal jumpers from the CD profile.
The walls are finished one by one - after installing the HA sheets on one wall they move to another
Fastening gypsum board sheets
Now you can begin covering the frame with plasterboard panels. This is done like this:
- The first solid panel is fixed flush to the wall with two screws and its position is adjusted. Then screws are screwed in every 30 cm. To prevent the caps from sticking out and the panels from cracking, you need to step back 1.5 cm from the edge and recess the screw by 1.5 mm. The 12 mm gap from the floor must be filled with putty after installation.
The edge of the sheet should lie exactly in the middle of the rack profile - A series of solid sheets is attached end-to-end from the floor to the ceiling, above the door and window openings cut pieces are used and the remaining areas are sewn up with them.
The main thing is to understand the principle of operation - Putty all seams, screw heads, chips. Reinforcing mesh or tape is glued to the seams. Then the surface of the sheets is primed. For better adhesion when applying finishing.
Primer is necessary for better adhesion when applying the finish.
To correctly cut a HA sheet, you need to run a construction knife along the marking line, then break the panel, opening the ends, and reverse side cut off a layer of cardboard.
How to attach gypsum boards without a profile
The second installation method is suitable for various base materials and for small or dark rooms, if the walls are relatively flat and correct form, then landing the gypsum board on the glue will be a good decision. A wall leveled using the adhesive method will last at least 15 years. There are limitations to the frameless method:
- It is not recommended to attach gypsum boards to constantly damp surfaces where moisture penetrates from a foundation with poor waterproofing or leaks from a leaky roof;
- if the thickness of the building walls is calculated incorrectly, then inside condensation forms; in this case, drywall is attached only to the frame;
- if the differences are on uneven walls are more than 40 mm.
Mounting features
The frameless method of fixation is simpler and faster, but it requires more careful preparation of the rough base. The consumption of sheets will be equal in both cases, and the consumption adhesive composition depends on the unevenness of the walls. When differences exceed 40 mm, the frame method is used. Let us consider in detail the intricacies of attaching gypsum boards to the most popular base materials.
To a wooden surface
Wooden surfaces are usually smooth; differences and protrusions can be corrected with a plane, and depressions can be filled with thin planks. The problem of rotting and burning wood is easily solved by treating it with an antiseptic and fire retardant.
Experienced builders recommend attaching drywall to wooden walls without using glue using self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws. Screw in with a screwdriver without recessing in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 25–30 cm from each other. The caps are manually carefully recessed into the surface by 1.5 mm and puttied.
Sheets are easier to attach to a wooden surface than to others Towards a concrete wall
Concrete is porous and highly absorbent. To reduce glue consumption, primer treatment is necessary, which will increase adhesion and fill pores and microcracks.
The adhesive used is starting putty mixed with PVA glue or gypsum in a ratio of 1:10 or special dry glue for working with plasterboard. You will also need dowels 80–120 mm long. To dilute the glue, first pour water into a container, dilute PVA glue in it, and then add dry powder and stir with a mixer.
If the wall is relatively flat:
To the brick wall
Brickwork has unevenness and brittleness that add difficulty to the job. In this case, it is advisable to fasten the plasterboard with hardware 6x80 mm, 8x10 mm or driven dowels with a length of at least 80 mm and glue.
For novice specialists, a suitable method is to place beacons from pieces of the same drywall, which will act as a frame and help accurately level the plane of the sheet.
Liquid nails and polyurethane foam are also used as an adhesive composition. The beacons can be flat cakes made of thick glue; they are applied in increments of 40 cm. When the sheet is pressed and tapped with a rubber hammer, they themselves will take the required size and be distributed in the cavity.
In some cases, polyurethane foam is used instead of glue. To a foam block wall
To finely level the foam concrete, it is enough to remove small irregularities using a hammer drill with a chisel attachment. Gypsum is processed in the same way.
The fastening technology is similar to fixing it on a wooden wall. Antiseptic impregnation will protect the base from biological damage, and the sheets should be kept indoors for at least a day to stabilize the temperature and humidity conditions. According to the markings, attach the gypsum board to the wall, first fix it diagonal corners, set strictly vertically, and then screw in hardware measuring 3.9x45 mm in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 30 cm.
The cost of the frameless fastening method is 60% less than using a profile, and a flat wall will save time and effort First, you should carefully inspect the wall and identify defects that will prevent a tight fit and reliable fixation of the sheets, and then take the following steps:
- Knock down the layers of plaster and the old finish, otherwise, under the weight of the drywall, the plaster may fall off during use and the entire repair will have to be redone. Then clean the surface from dust and dirt using a brush and a damp cloth.
The wall should be thoroughly cleaned. Instead of putty, you can use cement-sand mortar - Mark the wall in accordance with the drawing or sketch. It is necessary to leave a damping gap of 5–10 mm from the floor and ceiling. This will provide air access for ventilation and hardening of the glue, and will also protect the gypsum board sheets from warping during temperature and humidity fluctuations; mark the attachment points with self-tapping screws.
The red dotted lines show how sheets should not be divided.
How to fix drywall
Now you can begin installing the gypsum boards:
The frameless method saves money and time, while the frame method allows you to create fancy architectural forms. In both cases, you will get perfectly even and smooth walls, ready for finishing, which will last for many years and do not require special care.
