- it is a labor-intensive task, and if all technologies are followed, it will last up to 10 days. But if you are put off by the price of painting MDF, you can try painting MDF yourself. What and how to paint MDF at home?
To paint MDF at home you will need putty, primer, paint itself (paint and varnish material - LKM), patina and acrylic lacquer(for matte surfaces) or glossy varnish and polishing pastes (for glossy surfaces).
The process of painting MDF includes several stages, with all stages alternating with drying and sanding
Putty
Primer
Painting
Patination or varnishing and polishing of MDF
Preparing MDF for painting
Before painting MDF, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the board itself. What does the preparation of MDF boards for painting include:
1)Sanding MDF to prepare the board surface for primer. Thanks to grinding with grain 120-240, firstly, surface unevenness will be smoothed out, and secondly, a layer of paraffin will be sanded off, which would prevent the primer and paint from being absorbed into the wood. On complex curves, it is better to sand MDF with an emery sponge, or even avoid grinding thin cutters on early stages. Still, MDF is a rather fragile material, it’s better not to fray it too much.
2) Before painting MDF, you need to make sure that the material does not need puttying, for example, large dents, edges, or gaps between parts are needed if the product consists of several elements. Acrylic putty is best suited for this purpose - it is quite elastic and will not crack over time. After drying, its remnants are carefully removed, and the MDF surface for painting is sanded with sandpaper.
3)Primer MDF before painting. As a rule, MDF is primed twice before painting in order to give the board surface an ideal smoothness. At the first stage of priming MDF, the insulating primer is sprayed using a spray gun (nozzle - from 1.6 to 2.4 millimeters, 2-4 atm.) at the rate of 90-100 grams/"square". This primer should prevent the pile of the MDF board from rising and absorbing paint or varnish: the primer gets into the loose areas of the MDF, and the paint will not sag after application. After the primer has dried, the surface is sanded with sandpaper or an emery sponge, but very carefully - a thin layer of primer can be easily wiped down to the MDF board.
The second primer is carried out with white polyurethane primer at a rate of at least 150 grams/square. The primer layer should be given time to dry - 12-24 hours, and then sanded. If pellets of primer are visible on the skin, it means it has not dried yet.
How can I prime MDF before painting? A mixture of your chosen paintwork material for painting with the addition of water. For example: 25% enamel per water based, 25% varnish, 50% water.
If we talk about general recommendations on the MDF primer, it is carried out with a spray gun, starting with the most complex elements of the cutters, then moving to the edge, and then to the rest of the surface. First, the part is covered lengthwise, then crosswise, overlapping.
MDF painting
The technology for painting MDF is approximately the same as the technology for priming. The easiest way to paint MDF is with a spray gun (nozzle – 1.6-2 millimeters, pressure – 2-4 atm.), but if you don’t have it, a roller or brush will do. Painting parameters will directly depend on the specific paintwork: the interval for applying layers, their number, recommended air pressure and nozzle diameter, paint consumption (60-200 grams/"square"), spraying method. This information can be read in the instructions. 
How to paint MDF? Polyurethane, water-based enamels are best suited for painting MDF - they do not have a strong odor, dry quickly, are relatively safe, and are resistant to ultraviolet radiation. Although you can use alkyd, acrylic or oil paints.
If there are paint smudges on the painted surface, they should be removed with a utility knife; If small debris, lint, or midges get in, they are removed immediately with a small sharp object. Irregularities are carefully sanded after drying. By the way, sanding after applying all layers of paintwork will be simpler - enamel or paint is applied in a thick layer and smoothes the surface.
Once it's behind you, it's time to apply either varnish (to add gloss to the surface) or patina (to add texture to matte surfaces).
Coating MDF with patina
As a rule, MDF facades are patinated with complex cutters to emphasize their texture. The patina composition is applied directly to the dried layer of paint using the same spray gun, brush, roller, swab, etc. After the patina on the MDF has dried, the surface is sanded again, the patina is covered with a layer of acrylic matte varnish at a rate of about 150 grams/"square" and dried for 24 hours. MDF painting is finished.
Varnishing MDF to a high gloss finish
Glossy varnish is applied to painted MDF in two layers at intervals according to the instructions, and at the rate of 130-150 grams/"square". The varnished MDF is dried for at least a day, after which the final sanding begins, moving from coarser to finer grains. To prevent varnish particles from overheating and rolling off during sanding, the painted MDF surface is sprayed with water from time to time. In another week the MDF will be ready for final polishing. MDF using a sander, abrasive and non-abrasive pastes. 
So, if you are still asking the question: “Is it possible to paint MDF,” the answer is - it is possible, but difficult. Moreover, if you are a novice painter, or your MDF is of poor quality, or you don’t have enough time to comply with all these drying times. In any case, we told you how to paint MDF with your own hands, but the choice is yours to do it yourself or trust the professionals.
We bring to your attention a video about how MDF is painted by professionals.
Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board, correspondent of the online publication "AtmWood. Wood-Industrial Bulletin"
MDF is widely used in the furniture industry primarily because of its low cost. Most often, this material is covered with laminated film. However, there are situations when it becomes necessary to color it. We'll look at the specifics of this process below.
MDF facades for painting: features and advantages of use
Mass production of MDF facades has led to their widespread popularity among the population. This material made from wood fibers that are pressed under high temperature. MDF boards have increased strength, which is ensured by good connection of the fibers with each other.
Most often, this material is used for the manufacture of furniture facades, which cover the main part of the furniture and prevent various kinds substances.
If we compare MDF facades with other types of furniture, they have a large number of advantages over them. First of all, it is resistance to mechanical damage, a long period of operation,
In addition, their MDF facade is resistant to vaporization and high humidity. In the manufacturing process of the plates, no synthetic substances are used that are harmful to the human body. Also, from MDF boards you can make various furniture that has almost any shape and configuration.
Among the advantages MDF facades note:
- resistance to moisture;
- resistance to high and low temperatures;
- high strength indicators;
- manufacturability and ease of use;
- affordable price;
- resistance to the formation of fungus and mold.
Do-it-yourself painting of kitchen facades from MDF
It is preferable to paint MDF boards in a room whose total area is more than 40 square meters. In addition, it should have a separate place for painting parts, as well as an area where they will be sanded. Optimal temperature for work is 19-20 degrees Celsius.
The painting booth should be equipped with exhaust device, which helps get rid of the smell of paint and a table that ensures the part rotates in the desired direction. It is necessary to equip the drying chamber with racks, and a vacuum cleaner in the grinding chamber.
In order to cover the facade with varnish or paint, you will need a pneumatic spray gun and a compressor that is connected to it to supply the necessary pressure. Using an angle grinder, the finished product is polished.
Before choosing slabs for painting, you should pay attention to their quality. Inspect the slab for the presence of lint; it is preferable to choose a material whose lint is not raised. Milling is performed at the maximum speed of the device. This way, the surface of the slab will remain as smooth as possible. Please note that after preparation, the slabs are particularly fragile, so you should not place heavy or sharp objects on them, as there is a risk of deformation of the material.
In order to hide the corners from damage, they should be processed with special edge cutters. Please note that parts should be sanded along the entire perimeter to remove the protective wax layer, which will prevent the paint from adhering to the surface. For these purposes, it is preferable to use an eccentric grinder. To process difficult areas, it is recommended to use an emery sponge.
If the MDF facade contains connections between individual slabs, between which there are small gaps, then to remove them, a vapor-filling primer should be used. When it dries, the surface is sanded with sandpaper.
Before you start painting MDF facades with your own hands, you need to apply a layer of primer. On the one hand, it will improve the adhesion of paint to the surface, and on the other hand, it will reduce paint consumption. At the beginning, complex relief areas should be covered. Next, the end sections and the main surface are primed. The work is carried out using a spray gun. First make longitudinal movements, and then transverse ones. In the process of covering the facade, a 50% overlap of one layer occurs on the second. This technology produces both primer coating and painting of MDF facades.
If it is necessary to paint both sides of the facade, first the work is carried out inside, and then, after the inside has dried, on the outside.
The procedure for priming an MDF facade consists of two processes, which we will consider below:
1. Applying primer, which acts as an insulator. This substance protects the surface from excessive absorption of paint and prevents lint from rising on the slabs. When the soil has dried, sanding the surface begins with an emery sponge. However, all work is carried out carefully so as not to erase the soil from the slab.
2. The second stage is painting with a primer with a polyurethane base. After applying this material, the surface becomes white. The drying time for this layer is from 10 to 24 hours. Next, the surface is sanded again and prepared for painting.
Painting MDF facades, technology and principle of execution
To paint facades, you should use a spray gun. In relation to the type of paint, the diameter of the nozzle, the type and direction of paint movement, the method and layers of spraying are determined. Therefore, before painting, you should read the instructions for using the paint.
To use complex formulations, you must first mix certain components in the required quantity. In addition, make sure that the thickness of the paint is comparable to the spray nozzle to avoid problems when painting facades.
Please note that under no circumstances should work be carried out outdoors or indoors with an open window to prevent contamination of the surface with dust, hair and other small substances. To remove them, use tweezers or a needle. In order to get rid of smudges, use a utility knife and clean the removal area with sandpaper.
If the facade has a matte tint and complex milling is performed, then work is carried out to patina it. To apply this composition, no preliminary primer is required. Patination is carried out over the paint; a roller, brush, spray gun or sponge is used to complete the work.
To remove excess, use abrasives. After this, the surface is covered with a transparent varnish, which protects the facade from mechanical influences.
How to paint the facade after painting
After applying paint to the MDF facade, it is treated with compounds that improve the appearance of the finished coating and its resistance to scratches. At the same time, the paint acquires a deeper shade and becomes fresher. For these purposes, an acrylic-based varnish with a gloss effect is used.
This composition must be applied in at least two layers. In this case, the second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried. After covering the facade with varnish, it is transported to drying chamber. After two days, the products are polished. A week after varnishing, the MDF facade is polished and prepared for use.
To sand the finished product, use grinder. During the sanding process, you should use a spray bottle to spray water on the slabs, this way the facade will cool and the varnish will not roll off the surface. At the end of the sanding process, the surface has a uniform matte texture.
The work is completed by polishing the MDF facade. For these purposes, it is recommended to use an angle grinder, which has a circle made of foam rubber and special remedy in the form of an abrasive paste. First, the composition covers the entire surface of the facade, then the machine rubs it evenly over the slab. Polishing of the product is performed at high speeds of the device. Please note that at first the movements are horizontal, and then vertical. Moisten the polishing wheel periodically to prevent it from overheating. To ensure the surface has a deep color, we recommend applying furniture wax to the circle.
To ensure the final finishing of the product, use a paste with a non-abrasive base. Thus, the surface of the MDF facade will become like a mirror. Next, the facade is packaged in boxes made of foamed polyethylene and corrugated cardboard. This material provides reliable protection facade from mechanical damage, scratches.
Painting MDF facades glossy: furniture restoration
Since MDF furniture is often used for furnishing apartments, houses and office premises, during operation, it loses its attractive appearance and needs restoration. In addition, another reason for painting MDF facades is to change the interior of the room, in which the old facade simply does not fit in color.
To paint an MDF facade, you do not need any special skills in working with special equipment; you just need to follow the instructions given below.
Boards based on wood fibers combine well with paint, this is explained by the following reasons:
- since the slab is homogeneous, natural and monolithic, no preparation is required for it additional work to level the material, it is enough to remove the old paint, if any, and grind the surface;
- Since MDF is resistant to mechanical stress, various textured elements can be created on its surface using paint.
Stages of work on painting MDF facades:
- preparatory work;
- applying a primer;
- determining the type of paint;
- coloring.
In order to paint paneled MDF facades, you will need:
- tools for applying paint;
- masking tape;
- hair dryer, with which the facade will be heated;
- protective gloves;
- soil composition;
- sandpaper.
To begin with, all fittings are removed from the furniture facade. For removing old paint, use a hair dryer. Please note that manual removal of paint may damage the surface and reduce the aesthetics of its appearance. If there are small mechanical defects on the slabs, you should get rid of them by applying putty designed for working with wooden surfaces. Finish the work by finishing the surface with sandpaper.
When choosing a primer, it is best to use compounds designed for working with wood. The primer is applied either with a brush, a roller or a spray gun. The minimum drying time for the primer is 24 hours.
Paint for MDF facades is selected based on the desired painting effect. Most best option paints for painting MDF facades - auto enamel. Such compositions are characterized by high resistance to moisture, good strength characteristics and resistance to replacement. temperature regime. There are a huge number of auto enamel colors that differ in depth, shade or type of surface obtained. Therefore, choosing the right paint, your facade will easily fit into any interior style.
After the primer has dried, paint is applied to the surface of the facade. If there are areas on the facade that will not be painted, then they are sealed using masking tape. Apply paint either longitudinally or transversely. To ensure that the paint is evenly distributed on the surface, use a spray gun. The result is a finish with either a glossy or matte finish.
There is another option for painting MDF facades; glisal is used for these purposes. She is bought in construction stores. Glyzali dilution option possible regular paint, in this case, after painting, the surface acquires an interesting texture. First, dilute a small amount of the composition and apply paint to the paper surface; if the result is satisfactory, dilute all the paint.
To paint with glisal, you should prepare a tool with which to apply the paint and wear gloves that protect your hands from getting the composition on the skin. In addition, you will need a sponge, plastic bag and two brushes - one small, and the second large. Apply the glisal to the façade in an even but thick enough layer. Next, use a sponge, gradually applying it to the facade. In relation to the pores on the sponge, the surface will be covered with small bubbles. If you want to get lines on the surface of the facade, use a crumpled cellophane bag. In this case, the effect will be more pronounced. Abstract elements will also help to create a small brush. It is possible to combine different effects with each other, it all depends on your preferences and imagination. Please note that after the glaze has dried, you should not correct anything, as the surface has acquired an unpresentable appearance. To fix the effect, it is recommended to cover the MDF facade with varnish.
Painting MDF facades video:
MDF - wood fiber board - is a relatively young material. Its production began in the USA in 1966. In a short period of time, this material has almost completely replaced wood in furniture production.
Furniture facades have become a common sight in our kitchens, our offices and many other places.
MDF is a medium density material that is made by pressing (under high pressure and at high temperature) fine chips. Lignin, a naturally occurring substance found in wood, acts as a binding material.
Of course, in terms of its strength characteristics, this material is significantly inferior to wood, however, as a material for finishing surfaces, it is a worthy replacement for it (wood). The main advantages of MDF include the following:
- Resists moisture well;
- Heat resistant;
- High surface strength;
- Very technologically advanced and easy to use;
- Low cost;
- Resistant to various microorganisms and fungi.
The use of MDF for finishing furniture facades gave a new impetus to the flight of design ideas and made it possible to significantly expand the possibilities of decorating furniture.
But DDF facades, like facades made from other materials, lose their shine over time. During operation, they may require replacement, or the furniture facades no longer harmonize with the respectable appearance of a freshly renovated kitchen. Whatever the reason, there are two solutions. The facades need to either be changed or repainted.
Painting MDF facades is a relatively simple matter and does not require any special knowledge from the performer. If desired and necessary materials and tools, we are quite capable of coping with this task to an ordinary person, not experienced in modern construction technologies.
This article will discuss how to paint an MDF facade with your own hands.
Fiberboards lend themselves well to painting. This fact once again confirms the high quality of this material and its high manufacturability. To understand the reasons for such a loyal attitude of the material to the products of the paint and varnish industry, you should pay attention to the main advantages of MDF:
- Due to the homogeneity, naturalness and solidity of the surface, the material does not require additional preparation of the surface for painting, unlike most existing materials. If there is a layer of old paint on the surface of the fiberboard, then all surface preparation will consist of removing this layer, which will not be difficult and will not take much time;
- The MDF surface is very resistant to mechanical deformation. Due to this, the surface can not only be painted, but even minor changes can be made to the surface texture.
We paint MDF ourselves
The algorithm for painting a furniture facade made of MDF with your own hands includes the following steps:
- Surface preparation;
- Primer;
- Selecting the type and color of paint;
- Applying paint.
In the process of performing these operations you will need following materials and tools:
- Roller and paint brush;
- Painting tape;
- Construction hair dryer;
- Latex gloves;
- Primer for wood;
- Fine-grit sandpaper.
Surface preparation
First of all, in the process of preparing the surface, it is necessary to remove all elements of fittings from it.
As mentioned above, the MDF surface, provided that it has no mechanical damage, does not require preparation for painting. The layer of old paint must be removed using a hair dryer. Do not attempt to perform this operation manually - it will be time-consuming and may cause significant damage to the surface of the material. If there are noticeable mechanical damages on the MDF surface, they can be removed using wood putty. At the end of the preparation process, the surface must be carefully treated with fine-grained sandpaper.
Surface primer
The best primer for MDF surfaces is a wood primer. The method of applying the primer is entirely up to you. Can be used paint brush, roller or spray.
It will take a day for the primer to dry completely.
Selecting paint type and color
When choosing the type of paint for an MDF facade, it is recommended to give preference to auto enamel. Representatives of this relatively new family of paints and varnishes are characterized by high heat and moisture resistance, and are capable of creating a durable coating.
Modern manufacturers of car enamels offer consumers a wide selection of products in a rich range of colors. There is no doubt that in this kaleidoscope of colors and shades you will be able to choose the optimal color option for yourself, which will allow the furniture facades to harmoniously fit into the interior of your room.
Paint application
The paint has been selected. The primer has dried. You can start doing what you started all this for, applying paint. Cover areas not intended for painting, if any, with masking tape and begin painting the surface.
How to paint MDF furniture at home
The method and method of applying paint is at your discretion. Paint must be applied in one direction.
As a result, you will receive a durable, varnished or matte coating, depending on the texture of the paint, that will give the furniture facades the new kind and will reliably protect them for a long time.
The video shows MDF facades being painted:
If you are skeptical about your abilities and do not want to take risks, then you should seek help from specialists. But in this case, the price of painting MDF facades will be significantly higher and will range from 1200 to 2000 rubles per square meter surfaces.
Painting of MDF products is carried out in two cases. The first is when application is required. protective coating, the second is for decoration purposes. In this case, various paints and varnishes. How to paint MDF will be discussed below.
Coloring
Advantages of painting MDF
Currently, this material is actively used in the creation of furniture, interior doors, and finishing panels. And all of them are subject to painting, which acts as a decorative and finishing coating.
Its use provides the following advantages:
- The painted MDF element is not afraid of elevated temperatures - thanks to this, it is possible to use it in the kitchen, where hot dishes will be placed on it;
- Decorating in non-standard colors will help add brightness and originality to the interior of the room - it can be “metallic”, “mother of pearl” or other unusual colors;
Mother of pearl panel
- The absence of harmful chemical compounds is an undoubted advantage for painting MDF at home - the only condition for this is the use of high-quality paints and varnishes;
- Durability – applying paint can significantly extend the life of the product.
Of course, this method of protecting surfaces also has disadvantages. They lie in the fact that the price of painting parts significantly exceeds the cost of pasting such products. decorative film. In addition, under the influence sun rays, the painted surface may fade.
Materials for painting MDF
Since MDF is a wood product, it can be coated with almost any paint or wood varnish. But get it for real high-quality coating is possible only if specialized compounds are used.
These include:
- polyurethane primer,
- polyurethane paint,
- as well as varnish for MDF.
Let's talk about them in more detail.
Polyurethane primer
Polyurethane primer
Thinking about how you can paint the MDF panels, you first need to take care of the priming of the products. It will prevent paint from being absorbed into the material, thereby reducing its consumption.
In this case, you will need a special water-based polyurethane primer. It will hide the texture of the material and create a layer with high hardness and adhesion. In addition, the resulting coating will be smooth and easy to sand.
It is best to apply this primer using a sprayer. If it is not available, you can use a roller or brush. Subsequent drying takes 8-10 hours and is carried out at room temperature.
Advice! For achievement best result this procedure must be carried out in full accordance with the instructions established by the instructions for use of this composition.
Polyurethane enamel on MDF
Polyurethane enamel
Compared to other paints and varnishes, it has the following advantages:
- the coating obtained with its help is wear-resistant and chemically resistant;
- has no odor because it does not contain volatile components;
- Can be used to paint components intended for both indoor and outdoor use.
It is produced by various manufacturers. The products of the Italian brands Sirka and Sivam are in great demand. Their popularity among polyurethane materials for MDF is similar to that of Zinga electrically conductive paint, among compositions for anti-corrosion metal treatment.
Sirca enamel
This polyurethane paint can be two- or one-component. The first type requires the addition of a hardener to it before use.
The second variety does not require such an additive and is available in ready-to-use form. Both types are applied by spray, roller or brush.
These coloring compositions, as well as fire-retardant metal paints Polistil, are sold in special metal buckets. Their weight can range from 1 to 25 kilograms.
Along with the above-mentioned brands Sirk and Sivam, other brands such as Tikkurila and Teknos are also popular. But they are all quite expensive.
Therefore, if necessary, paint materials from other, less well-known manufacturers can be used instead. Or use cheaper alkyd enamels rather than polyurethane enamels.
It is also worth paying attention to acrylic and oil paints. In particular, when deciding how to paint an MDF arch, you can take a closer look at domestic acrylic compositions.
Advice! Choose moisture-resistant dyes.
Painting an MDF cabinet. Is this possible?
The product coated with them can be easily washed in the future, which is very convenient.
Varnish on MDF
In the photo - polyurethane varnish
This specialized varnish is used for finishing objects from MDF or for their tinting. It forms a smooth coating that is resistant to both mechanical and chemical influences. The resulting surface can be either matte or glossy.
This varnish is odorless and is two-component. This means that to prepare the working composition you need to add a hardener to it.
After this, the mixture must be consumed within two to three hours. You can apply it yourself using a sprayer.
Conclusion
Painting MDF can significantly increase its service life, as well as make the product more attractive and resistant to elevated temperatures. Since MDF is a wood material, it can be treated with almost any wood paint or varnish (see also the article “Painting MDF furniture facades”).
But to get the best results, you should still use specialized compounds. This is a polyurethane primer and also polyurethane enamel and varnish on MDF. They allow you to create a hard and wear-resistant coating that can have a wide variety of colors.
More information on this topic will tell you the video in this article.
painting MDF with water-based enamel
I had to work with another kind slab materials- with MDF (MDF - Medium Density Fiberboard - medium density fibreboard). He made a cabinet in a baguette frame, a bedside table and screens for batteries. MDF was painted using a spray gun. But the technological steps will be the same as with manual painting methods.
One of the advantages of MDF is its high dimensional stability and ease of processing. The advantage of water-based enamels is their relative environmental friendliness and safety for the “painter” and in use, plus resistance to ultraviolet radiation and quick drying “touch-to-touch” until the next layer.
Painting MDF facades
They also have almost no smell (and don’t stink :) and are fireproof. More or less normal enamels start at 500 rubles per liter. Beckers costs more than 1000 rubles per liter. Plus tinting from 50 rubles per bright hues and up to 400 rub. for the dark ones. I was naively counting on 300 rubles/l for everything.
To paint MDF you need to go through the following steps:
1 — preparation of MDF for primer (grinding);
2 - MDF primer;
3 - first interlayer sanding;
4 — painting (first layer);
5 - grinding;
6 - final painting (if you're lucky with preliminary stages) or repeat sanding and painting to the desired quality;
7 — bringing a “gloss” to the surface.
The photo shows 4 surfaces in order of reading by arrow:
- bare MDF;
— after priming;
- after applying putty;
- finishing surface.
Stage 1 is important because upper layer MDF may contain paraffin, which, to put it mildly, has poor adhesion to paintwork materials. At the same time, possible irregularities will be removed. I sanded with 120-240 grit... according to the feel. The routings can be sanded at this stage, but it is easy to lick off the fragile edges of the MDF. And the pile will rise after priming.
Stage 2 may also include putty. If you are preparing plywood for painting, then putty is required, otherwise the structure of the wood and the ends characteristic of plywood will be visible, even under the enamel.
I primed it with the same enamel, only white, diluted 1:1 with water. You can add varnish, for example 1 part enamel + 1 varnish + 1 or 2 water.
The putty was prepared by adding factory latex putty (Olympus for wood) to the enamel until it became thick and creamy. I applied it with a spatula over the primer. In the photo it was applied with a roller. After sanding, the surface was perfect.
Stage 3 is one of the most difficult, time-consuming, labor-intensive and important for complex surface topography, for example, in the presence of milling. The first interlayer sanding removes all raised fibers and other critical irregularities and roughness. I was afraid to even think about how to polish the profile in the photo.
My friend gave me a good idea. The essence of the idea is that a thin film is laid on the profile, and gypsum is applied to it, which hardens exactly along the profile. Then the film is replaced with sandpaper. I didn’t have plaster, but I did have a hot-melt gun for glue sticks. So I made the answer from pieces of MDF and silicone glue. I used 220-500 grit waterproof sandpaper. For grinding semicircular grooves, whole glue sticks, which were wrapped with sandpaper, were ideal.
Stages 3 and 4 of making the frame for one screen front panel for the batteries took about 8 hours. Why is it so difficult to comprehend and accept for so long, even after production?
4. Everything seems clear, but it’s not. A spray gun with an appropriate nozzle (mine is 1.8 mm) allows you to apply undiluted enamel in a fairly thick layer. This is what you should use at this stage, just remember about the maximum possible thickness of the wet film at a time (different manufacturers may give different recommendations). Of course, it is safer and more technologically correct to apply many thin layers, but time is also a resource... and it happens that you simply don’t have it anymore.
If there are any smudges, you can leave them and let them dry. Then carefully cut it with a stationery knife, sand it at the end with fine-grain sandpaper 800-1000 and rub it with a rag. The surface may become smoother and glossier than in a “safe” area. I think the finishing layer can be treated in the same way if time is running out and an ideal surface is needed.
Since when spraying a different amount of paintwork material gets onto the main surface and the ends, you can first spray on the ends, then on the surface itself, then again on the ends. If the part is large, then you can also go through the second circle over the entire part if the enamel has “set.”
The photo shows screens for batteries made of MDF. The top is primed and sanded, and the bottom is painted with the first layer of enamel. By the way, there you can see the final result of the painting closer.
5. Subsequent sanding is much faster and easier because the previous layer (possibly thick) of enamel fills and levels the surface.
6. Since the enamels that I found were semi-matte, to increase the gloss, I added a 1:1 glossy water-based parquet varnish to the finishing layer. Since varnish has a much lower viscosity than enamel, this mixture also has a fairly liquid consistency. Which is reflected in the technique and quantity of applying diluted enamel to the surface without smudges.
7. Checking the surface for tiny “bonuses” (specks of dust, hairs...) and removing them. If desired, you can polish, although sales managers say that water-based paints cannot be polished.
This is because an important feature of water-based coatings is their long final polymerization. Usually 7-14 days are indicated, after which the surface will gain the declared hardness and resistance to detergents. If the layer is thick, then the process can take months. This time.
Most water-based paints and varnishes supplied or produced in the post-Soviet space form a film that “melts” under the influence of a relatively low temperature. That's two.
And polishing is friction and heat. So, polishing “water-coats” is a very peculiar process, in preparation for which, heated particles torn out by a thin/fine abrasive stick together with others and form pellets that stick to the abrasive surfaces during final grinding. Therefore, they often need to be cleaned. But this feature can help with final polishing with non-abrasive materials, such as a soft pad at low speed or soft cloth manually.
Since the process is unique, it is advisable to make a sample on which to look for the best polishing technique. And if the result does not suit you, then it is better to look for other options.
For beginners, of course, it is better to paint horizontal surfaces. That's what I wanted too. But I have few horizontal surfaces, but a lot of details. Therefore, I had to build a vertical stand on which about 5 m2 of parts could be placed.
After such an experience, you understand why painting costs from 2000 rubles / m2.
upd 11/20/2015 (almost 5 years after writing the article... since then I have worked with both oils and two-component mega-smelly solvent-based coatings)
Now there are modern water pipes that are well ground and polished.
Updating a kitchen set in our time can be quite simple. To do this, you just need to paint the kitchen facades, after which the cabinets will acquire a second life and will delight the owner for many more years. You can change the appearance of the panels if their surface has become dull, faded and lost its aesthetics, or when the housewife wants to diversify the decor and reconsider the interior of the kitchen.
Wallpaper on the walls must be replaced after a few years, curtains can be alternated at least every month, depending on your mood, and furniture, as a rule, lasts quite a long time and its appearance, over the years, begins to get boring. But it turns out that in order to change the look of the kitchen, you don’t have to buy a new set. You just need to buy enamel of the color you like and repaint the furniture facades.
How to paint MDF panels
Moreover, you can do it yourself.
What materials are used in the manufacture of facades?
First of all, you need to decide what stands behind the definition of “furniture facades”. They represent the front part of the cabinets, represented by the end part drawers, as well as doors:
- swinging open;
- sliding;
- rising;
- descending;
- folding like an accordion.
Kitchen facades are made in one piece or prefabricated (panelled or framed) from:
- natural wood;
- laminated or painted MDF;
- plastic;
- impact resistant glass.
The aesthetic perception of the furniture as a whole depends on the appearance of the facades. They are able to decorate even the most unsightly frame. In addition to performing a decorative function, the panels must satisfy basic operational requirements, such as:
- moisture resistance;
- resistance to temperature changes;
- resistance to mechanical damage;
- ease of care.
Natural wood
Kitchen furniture with wooden fronts fits harmoniously into the premises large sizes. The doors are made in solid or paneled versions, but often there are more affordable options for consumers - veneer panels, which are based on cheaper material.
The advantages of a furniture set with wooden doors are its environmental friendliness and aristocracy, durability and demand, regardless of fashion trends. But, unfortunately, solid wood facades are too expensive; over time, their surface begins to darken and absorb odors and moisture.
It is difficult to create rounded and wavy panels from solid wood, as well as elements of non-standard sizes.
Chipboard
Facades from laminated chipboard They belong to the economy class, which is why they are found in many kitchens of our fellow citizens. But besides low cost and rich colors, they have no other advantages. But laminated chipboard has plenty of disadvantages:
- simple appearance;
- looseness of the internal structure;
- swelling in case of moisture;
- fragility;
- impossibility of making curved and embossed surfaces.
MDF
IN Lately MDF facades are becoming more and more popular. They are aesthetic, they can have various shapes and roundings, be covered with enamel or PVC film. This material is the most versatile and amenable to further restoration.
Painted and laminated MDF facades have:
- rich color range;
- glossy or matte surface;
- high strength;
- resistance to absorption of moisture and odors;
- possibility of making facades of non-standard sizes.
Painted facades will cost more than laminated MDF panels, but they are more durable. The pattern on PVC film can imitate natural wood or marble, but often the top layer peels off from the base, which dramatically worsens the appearance of the kitchen furniture.
Both materials are resistant to direct sunlight, so the surface begins to fade over time.
Glass, stained glass or mirrors, rattan or decorative panels are inserted into MDF frame facades. Such doors are inexpensive and, if desired, can be easily updated even without painting. To do this, simply change the filling.
Plastic
At the core plastic panels There are MDF or chipboard boards, depending on which the cost of the facades is determined. Often the plastic is edged with an aluminum profile. These doors:
- do not burn out;
- are not afraid of temperature changes;
- durable;
- highly resistant to aggressive detergents;
- have a maximum service life;
- waterproof.
The negative characteristics of plastic include:
- difficulty of painting (requires special compounds);
- constant fight against fingerprints remaining on the surface;
- the possible presence of depressed areas on products resulting from technological processes.
Glass
Facades made of transparent, colored, textured or frosted glass are installed on hanging kitchen cabinets. It can be placed in a frame made of MDF or aluminum profile, but often glass doors are installed without a frame. This gives them airiness and visually expands the room, but for the kitchen this option is not entirely acceptable.
Thanks to modern primers and paints, glass can be painted in any color, although the question arises: is it worth doing?
Painting MDF facades
First you need to decide on the coloring composition. There are a lot of types of paint on the market, but not all of them can be used on kitchen facades.
The best option for painting is considered to be auto enamel, which:
- moisture and heat resistant;
- durable;
- practically not afraid of damage, except for direct impact from sharp objects;
- has many shades.
The kitchen façade should be painted in a color that harmonizes with the interior and matches the style. Here you can show your imagination and combine two or three shades.
Materials and accessories
In addition to car enamel, to paint facades you will need:
- wood primer;
- sandpaper or hand sander;
- construction hair dryer;
- gloves;
- screwdriver or screwdriver;
- masking tape;
- velor roller and soft brush;
- glissal for additional decoration (optional).
Preparatory work
For ease of operation, the facades are removed from their hinges, after which they are freed from handles and inserts in the form of glass, stained glass or mirrors.
The loops do not need to be removed, but in this case they are sealed with tape.
Laminated chipboard panels must be cleaned of PVC film, as it will interfere with the application of the coloring composition. To do this, the front surface is heated using a hair dryer and the unnecessary layer is gradually removed. The film should be pulled off carefully so that no pieces remain on the facade.
Next, the surface is thawed from dust, after which they proceed to the next stage. It involves grinding the surface. It is produced manually with fine sandpaper or a sanding machine is used to make the work easier. It can also be used to remove the restored layer from painted MDF facades, although here you can use a special liquid for removing paints and varnishes.
At the end of the work, the panels are thoroughly wiped from dust and degreased, otherwise the new coating will be of poor quality.
At the last stage preparatory work A pre-shaken wood primer is applied to the facades. If available on doors plastic elements, they should be coated with a primer intended for plastic. After curing for a day, the actual painting of the panels begins.
Coloring
Facades must be painted in one direction with a roller or brush. If you intend to use several shades, then before applying the first color it will be necessary to protect with tape the area of the surface that will be decorated in a different tone. After the paint has completely dried, the remaining area is painted using the same technology.
It will look more neat to paint kitchen facades using a spray can or spray gun, but keep in mind that some of the paint will definitely be sprayed to the sides. This will lead to excessive consumption of the coloring composition.
To make the facades look more impressive, glisal is additionally applied to them. The composition is diluted with water in the proportion specified in the instructions, after which it is distributed over the painted facades with a clean brush.
A patterned textured design is obtained by glazing, using for this purpose a damp sponge, a brush with hard bristles, and even polyethylene. They are applied to the surface with glissal, moving from one area to another, resulting in a pattern of broken lines, chaotic strokes or bizarre bubbles. After the “witchcraft” is completed, the layer is allowed to dry, and after a week the surface is varnished.
Fittings are installed on the painted facades and the panels are hung on hinges.
Upgrading wood front panels
Painting wooden facades Kitchen work at home comes down to step-by-step surface treatment. It follows:
- sand;
- apply a layer of primer;
- paint in a pre-selected color;
- varnish.
Alternative Ways to Update Kitchen Cabinets
Some experts argue that painting kitchen facades with your own hands is unlikely to turn out to be of high quality and beautiful. They recommend using self-adhesive film for furniture restoration, offered by manufacturers in a large assortment. It is released:
- plain or with a pattern;
- with imitation of natural wood, tile or stone;
- with Khokhloma or Gzhel designs;
- with a holographic or photographic image.
But it should be remembered that film can solve the problem of updating only for a while. At the first opportunity, it would be wiser to order or buy new facades.
If the kitchen interior is made in a vintage style, you can try using decoupage or craquelure techniques to update the facades. If you wish, mastering them will not be difficult, and the effect of the finished doors will be amazing. A transparent moisture-resistant varnish is applied to the surface as a protective layer, allowing the facades to be washed with a damp soft cloth or sponge without using abrasives.
Facades with glass inserts are decorated with fabric you like and suit the style, or stained glass film. In this case, there will be no need to display kitchen utensils and constantly monitor the order on the shelves. In addition, it will be possible to place more items inside the cabinet. At the same time, the kitchen will look neat and well-groomed.
Home craftsmen know many more ways to update the appearance of facades, each of which can become exclusive.
In PVC film, we must not forget about alternative directions for the development of the enterprise, for example, such as painting MDF facades. The situation on the furniture market is constantly changing and consumer demands do not remain unchanged. Therefore, sooner or later, MDF furniture manufacturers may be faced with the question of how to paint an MDF facade, what equipment and materials will be required, and what technology for painting MDF facades is best suited for this particular enterprise.
Equipment for painting MDF facades
To paint MDF facades, you will need a room of at least about 40 square meters. m with a separate chamber for painting, a place for grinding parts, for drying and for storing workpieces and curing finished products. The room must be heated with a temperature of at least 20 degrees. The painting chamber should be appropriately equipped with an exhaust hood and preferably a rotating table, a drying room with shelving, and a sanding area with powerful vacuum cleaners.
To apply paints and primers, you will need a pneumatic spray gun with a nozzle from 1.5 to 2 mm and a compressor with a receiver of 80-100 liters. To grind parts, you will need an eccentric vibration sander, and for polishing, an angle grinder (grinder) with appropriate attachments.
Preparing MDF for painting
When choosing MDF for painting, you should pay attention Special attention the quality of the slab, primarily the rise of pile during processing and the presence of embossing from the molds used in its manufacture.
Milling of MDF facades should be carried out at the highest possible speed of the tool in order to reduce the likelihood of raising the pile. Since the paint layer of the finished MDF facade remains very fragile, you should avoid leaving sharp corners on the parts, which can be knocked off if handled carelessly. To do this, they are processed with an edge cutter with a radius 2-3 mm.
Sanding the parts of MDF facades must be done over the entire plane in order to remove the top protective layer of wax. For this, an eccentric sander with sandpaper P 180-240 is used. Complex curves of milling MDF facades are easiest to handle with an emery sponge.
If you plan to paint MDF facades consisting of several components, the gaps formed at the joints must first be filled with filler primer. After complete drying, its residues should be carefully removed with a rag or spatula, and then cleaned emery cloth R240-320.
Primer of MDF facades for painting
First of all, complex reliefs of milling or overlay elements of the surface of the MDF facade are primed. Then the edge of the part is primed. Next, the entire plane of the MDF facade is covered with soil. The gun moves first along and then across the part. Each subsequent layer should overlap the previous one by 50%. All subsequent stages of applying primers, paints and varnishes are performed in a similar manner.
If it is necessary to paint an MDF furniture facade on both sides, then paint and varnish is first applied to inner side facade. After it dries, you can cover the front side.
As a rule, the primer of MDF facades for painting is carried out in 2 stages. At the first stage, using a spray gun, a layer of insulating primer (80-100 g/sq. m) is laid down, which should provide protection against the absorption of subsequent layers of paintwork materials and raising the pile. After complete drying, sanding is carried out with an emery sponge or sandpaper P320-400. It is important that during active grinding do not wipe the soil layer to the MDF.
At the second stage, before painting the MDF facade, a layer of white polyurethane primer of 150-200 g/sq. m. The drying time for this layer can last from 8-10 to 24 hours, depending on the paint composition used. After drying, sanding with P320-400 sandpaper is performed. Milling bends and hard-to-reach areas of the MDF facade are sanded using an abrasive material S-cotch-brite.
Painting MDF facades
MDF facades are painted using a spray gun with paint (enamel) consumption from 60 to 200 g/sq. m. Setting the nozzle diameter, air pressure, spray method, number of layers and the interval of their application, as a rule, depends on the type of paint used. Therefore, before painting the MDF facade with one paint or another (enamel), you should carefully study the instructions for its use.
Complex ready-made compositions of paints and varnishes with various special effects should be thoroughly mixed beforehand, since the decorative component of the paint can settle as a solid suspension at the bottom of the jar. It is also necessary to make sure that decorative additives will pass freely through the gun nozzle.
During painting and varnishing, it is important to exclude all possibilities of dust, debris or insects getting onto the surface of MDF facades. If this does happen, you need to have tweezers or a needle on hand.
Significant and highly noticeable smudges of paint (primer) are removed after drying by cutting off with a stationery knife, and then carefully sanded off.
Patination of painted MDF facades
As a rule, patina is used on matte colors of MDF facades with complex elements surface and edge milling. The patination composition is applied without preliminary primer over the paint layer using a spray gun, roller, brush, foam rubber, swab or other tool. After drying, excess patina is removed by sanding with P320-400 abrasives or sandpaper. S-cotch-brite.
After thoroughly cleaning the MDF facade from dust, the paint layer and patina are covered with acrylic matte varnish (130-150 g/sq. m) and sent for drying. After 12-24 hours, the matte MDF facade can be packed and sent for storage.
Covering the facade of MDF after painting with varnish and polishing.
In order to give the surface of the MDF facade high resistance to mechanical damage, and the paints freshness and depth, it should be coated with acrylic transparent glossy varnish. The varnish is applied in two layers of 120-150 g/sq. m, in two steps with an interval to ensure drying of the first layer (according to the instructions).
The varnished MDF facades are sent to dry. After 1-2 days you can start grinding, and after 5-7 days you can start polishing and finishing the product.
Sanding the dried varnish layer using an eccentric sander begins with processing the facade with P1200-1500 sandpaper and ends with P3000-4000. In this case, the surface of the facade must be periodically sprinkled with water to prevent overheating and rolling off of varnish particles. At the end of sanding, you should get a monochromatic, uniform matte surface.
To polish MDF facades, use an angle grinder with a hard (Novol white) foam wheel and abrasive paste Bril -852. After applying the paste to the surface of the facade, you need to rub it over the area with a machine at low speed. Then, increasing the machine speed to 1500-2000, proceed directly to polishing. It is important to smoothly move the circle from one edge to the other, first horizontally and then vertically. The polishing wheel should be slightly moistened. In addition, for greater effect, experts recommend applying a little furniture wax to the circle.
To finish the gloss you will need a non-abrasive paste. Siashine FINISH and a soft (black Novol) foam pad for polishing. The result should be a façade with a mirror surface.
Packaging and storage of painted MDF facades
The best option for packaging painted MDF facades is foamed polyethylene plus corrugated cardboard. On the one hand, they will protect products well from mechanical damage. On the other hand, some paintwork materials continue to emit vapors of chemical compounds for some time, which condense on the surface of the facade when packaged in ordinary polyethylene and leave stains on the gloss. This combination of packaging material allows the vapors that accompany the drying process to evaporate even after storage.
The effectiveness of painting MDF facades
It is quite difficult to determine the benefits of manufacturing painted MDF facades if the manufacturer is not exclusively engaged in their production and sale. According to various sources, the average cost of 1 sq. m glossy facade is 60-80 dollars. The main share of costs falls on the wages of skilled workers, since the technology for painting MDF facades is based on manual labor(priming, sanding, painting, polishing), and the entire production cycle sometimes reaches 10 days or more.
In conclusion, I would like to say that the technology for painting MDF facades may differ at different enterprises, since the modern market offers a huge number of primers, paints, enamels, varnishes and other materials that, in their own way, technological properties are strikingly different from each other. For example, recently it has become fashionable to use MDF facades when painting automotive soils and enamels. But before you paint the kitchen facade, it’s worth remembering that a car and a kitchen have completely different functions, and it’s not a fact that car enamel is so harmless that it can be “consumed” with food.
Therefore, before painting the MDF facade with an unknown paint, it is still worth studying the paint and varnish market. Fortunately, there are plenty of companies producing primers, paints, enamels and varnishes for working specifically on MDF. Here is a list of some positively proven brands:
· LMB : Sayerlack, Votteler, Sivam, Tikkurila, Teknos, Sirca, PaliWood UM;
· Patina: Sayerlack, Borma, H esse Lignal
· Polishing pastes : 3M Perfect, Bril-852, Menzerna, Siashine FINISH.
Furniture facades, doors and other products made from MDF can be painted. But when working, inexperienced craftsmen encounter various difficulties, including the difficulty of obtaining a smooth surface without streaks, strong absorption of the material, and others. We will reveal the features of choosing paints for MDF boards.
Can MDF be painted?
Facades, furniture panels, panels, door cladding and other products made from MDF are in great demand due to their characteristics. This is the only material among its analogues that can be processed by all possible ways: milling, figured cutting, lamination, laminating, dyeing. Let's take a closer look at the latter.
Painting MDF is a complex process and it begins with the selection of the base material – paint and varnish. If you want to get perfect flat surface with a semi-matte or glossy sheen, then simple oil paint PF-115, even from an expensive foreign manufacturer, is not enough. An inexperienced master will face several problems at once:
It turns out that MDF cannot be painted? Our answer is that it is possible, but it is necessary to use a whole range of products, or, in the language of professionals, use a special program of paints and varnishes, which include:
- Several types of primer compositions: barrier primers or insulators with a pore-filling effect, elastic and easily sanded multicomponent compounds, basic pigmented compositions with a solids content of at least 50%.
- Paint with high hiding power, thixotropy, and after polymerization - wear resistance and durability.
- To create a smooth surface with a glossy/semi-matte sheen: varnish or polishing kits (paste + nap disc for polishing).
What paints are suitable for MDF
The easiest way to paint laminated boards. This is the surface of finished facades of furniture and doors, wall and ceiling panels. The film acts as a primer and leveling layer. The following types of coatings are suitable:
- Alkyd, alkyd-urethane or oil-based enamels (Novbytkhim, Dyo, Tikkurilla)
Alkyd enamels Tikkurila These are household compositions based on synthetic oils or polymer resins. They belong to the universal category, that is, they can be used for interior and exterior work, they have good adhesion to most materials: metal, wood, glass, chipboard, MDF, OSB, etc.
After curing, a dense and durable film is formed, the advantages of which are high hiding power, resistance to mechanical and chemical influences, abrasives, and water.
Among the disadvantages, we note a strong chemical smell that negatively affects human health, as well as a huge amount of low-quality products on the shelves of stores and markets.
- Enamels based on polyurethane resins (Elakor, Ive, Teknos)
One- and two-component complex compositions with an increased degree of wear resistance and incredible durability - more than 20 years. These are premium products with an appropriate price (from 400 rubles/kg). Most often, these paints are used by professional painters.
- Acrylic enamels (KrasKo, Tex, Belinka)
Compositions based on water-soluble acrylate or latex copolymers are considered the safest and are recommended for use in residential and children's premises. The easiest way to paint facades, doors and panels is with compositions produced in the form of aerosols. The resulting coating is slightly resistant to abrasives and mechanical damage, while perfectly protecting the surface from water and temperature changes.
- Special enamels for furniture or nitro paints of the NTs series (Lakra, Sadolin, Alpina)
This category includes a series of highly specialized compounds designed for working on wood, chipboard and MDF. They are characterized by high hiding power, excellent adhesion, short drying time and long term services. Recommended only for indoor use, as the film has a low frost resistance coefficient.
MDF panels used for the production of furniture facades, door and wall cladding are more difficult to paint due to the high absorbency of the material and the need for sanding. In addition, when working with a brush, roller or spray gun, the pile rises strongly, which makes the surface uneven and rough.
And if for priming you can choose highly specialized pore-filling elastic compounds that dry quickly and are easy to sand, then the following varieties are suitable as paints:
- Household acrylic compositions produced in the form of aerosols
They give a fairly smooth glossy surface, but at least 4 layers will be required. On milled door bevels and sharp corners furniture paint will wear off quickly, so it is recommended to apply a wear-resistant alkyd or PU varnish over the coating.
- Professional two-component polyurethane enamels (Milesi, Ilva, Renner)
Consist of a base composition and a hardener. They can be tinted by hand or machine in more than 2000 shades. It is used mainly in production, less often at home.
Since the components are toxic to humans, it is recommended to paint furniture and facades using outdoors using personal protective equipment (goggles, mask, gloves).
- Specialized enamels for MDF (Palina Coating, Galamix)
These are complex compositions based on polyurethane or urethane-acrylic. Applied to the surface of furniture or doors with a spray or brush, the resulting coating has excellent resistance to mechanical, chemical and abrasive influences, and practically does not fade over time.
- Automotive enamels (Duxone, Jet, Colomics)
These compounds are highly specialized and are designed for working on metal. Paints have undeniable advantages: excellent adhesion to any materials, thixotropy, abrasion, water and chemical resistance, rapid polymerization. In addition, the resulting coating can withstand temperatures from -40 °C to +100 °C. Auto enamels can be used to paint facades and other furniture elements and doors. Ready Wall panels can be painted without prior preparation.
- Polymer powder paint for wood and MDF (Reka, Pulver)
The composition was originally produced for industrial painting of metal and wood products, but in the last few years small volume packaging for household use has appeared on the market. In addition to the polymer compound, you will also need special equipment for its application.
Powder paint first melts at temperatures above 120 ° C, and then sticks to the base. A series of low-temperature or ultraviolet curing compounds are produced for MDF facades. Heating is carried out for several minutes, then the coating is applied to a horizontally located material and polymerized.
Powder paint allows you to obtain a wear-resistant surface with various decorative effects: patina, shagreen, textured metallic, leather, silk and much more. The technology has not become widespread in everyday life due to the complexity of application and the high cost of materials.
The purpose of painting is to obtain a beautiful surface that will not be afraid of water, scratches or stains. If you need to paint wall panels, acrylic spray paint is your best bet. Furniture facades kitchen set and doors must be resistant to temperature changes and various chemically aggressive substances ( household chemicals, products), so polyurethane, automotive wear-resistant compounds or powder are better suited for them. polymer paint. But furniture for the living room, nursery or bedroom can be coated with furniture enamels, which do not wear out over time and are easily updated if necessary.
