How to make a concrete vibrator yourself. Making cinder blocks at home Tamping with a perforator

Cinder block is one of the most requested materials for the construction of walls of one-story buildings. It is distinguished by its low cost and the possibility of its independent production at home.

Cinder block - wall stone

This building material is intended for low-rise construction. There is an opinion that if cement of a “high” grade is included in the mixture, then home-made blocks can be made solid foundation under the bath or house. However, the foundation blocks must withstand huge loads, so the blocks should be purchased at the factory, and not made independently.

Cinder blocks are:

• hollow;
• corpulent.

Due to sufficient strength characteristics, solid cinder blocks are used for cladding and construction bearing walls, as well as partitions. At the same time, hollow products have good heat and sound insulation. Due to voids, raw materials are significantly saved, which means that the cost of production is much lower.

Cinder blocks are also used as an additional insulation in the construction of frames.

How to knead a solution to create a cinder block?

The name of the building material "cinder block" speaks for itself. This means that the main component of the solution will be the slag obtained in the blast furnace, which should be sieved through a special sifter (sieve).

We will need:

• 7 parts of the main filler (they will serve as slag);
• 2 shares of gravel having fractions of 5-15 mm;
• one and a half parts of cement (it is best to take the brand M 400, 500);
• about 3 parts water.

In addition to slag, other components can also act as the main element: clay, expanded clay, sand, gravel, crushed stone, gypsum and many others. It should be noted that if you have chosen blast-furnace slag as a filler, then other additives are prohibited to use. If you want to get a colored cinder block, then you can add chalk or red bricks brought to small crumbs into the solution (they should be crushed).

In addition, during the production of cinder blocks, make sure that the solution does not spread.

Tip for getting strong blocks: you need to add a plasticizer to the solution (you can buy it at any hardware store). Then you will get not only durable, but also frost-resistant and waterproof blocks.

When you are going to independently establish the process of creating cinder blocks, you should understand that there is no universal solution recipe. Each master, through trial and error, selects his own unique formula. If you are a beginner, you can resort to the standard.

Cinder block production methods

There are two ways to get such blocks on your site.

1. With the help of formwork, that is, a form made of lumber or steel sheets.
2. Based on the work of a special machine.

Video - Making a cinder block by hand

Video - Cinder block walking mobile machine

Video - Cinder block making machine

Tools and materials for the production of blocks:

• forms (wood or metal), or vibration machines;

  2,3,4 - pallet blanks. 5,6,7 - framing the matrix from below (corner 25x25). 8 - bar for fastening voids. 9 - void. 10 - the upper plug of the void. 11 - lower plug of the void
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

• concrete mixer;
• spatula for leveling;
• shovel for pouring mortar;
• solution.

Instructions for making your own mold

The design of the form has the following form: the bottom and side walls. Between a pair of transverse boards or sheets of metal, you should fix the crossbars at the distance you need. Maintain a step corresponding to the size of the required cinder block.

Because to get ready product from the form it will be difficult, the design of the container must be collapsible. For production efficiency, make formwork designed to receive 4-6 cinder blocks.

To make a mold in order to create cinder blocks, you will need:

• sheets of iron 3 mm thick;
• iron strips 5 mm (several pieces);
• cylinders, 4 cm in diameter;
• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• chalk for marking.

Stages of manufacturing a single detachable metal mold

Step 1. We mark the sheet according to the size of the blocks: we need two longitudinal sides and two transverse ones. We cut our plates with a grinder.

The width of the longitudinal plate is 210 mm, the length is 450 mm, the transverse plate is 210 by 220 mm.

Step 2 Wings, 3.5 cm high, should be welded to the bottom of the mold for the cinder block so that the mold does not travel, and a handle to quickly release the poured solution from the mold.

Step 3 Notches are made along the contour of the transverse and longitudinal walls in order to hook the mold on the longitudinally installed walls.

Step 4. We collect our form.

Step 5. To create voids in the cinder block, we make hinged cylinders. They must be welded to a plate 3-4 mm thick, which should seem to penetrate the cylinders closer to the top. We make notches on the end walls of our container to hook them.

Video - Do-it-yourself mold for cinder blocks

Production of cinder blocks using a split mold

Forms have any dimensions. Standard sizes structures 90x190x188 mm, in private construction other sizes can be used, for example, 40x20x20 cm. In order to save material, it is better to use molds with cells of 4-6 blocks and cylinders (squares) to create cavities.

A metal self-made form (detachable) has the following appearance.

Consider step by step process production of cinder blocks.

Step 1. We mix the solution in a concrete mixer.

Step 2 Pour the mixture into our mold with a shovel. In this case, the mixture is thick. You can also use a liquid solution.

Step 3 Be sure to ensure that the solution fills the container evenly. To do this, we tamp the filled solution. We control the filling of the form to the brim. Aligning upper layer using a spatula.

Step 4 If the solution is dry, then a special lid should be used, the holes in which will block the bayonets in the mold. This device will help to compact our cinder block. For a liquid solution, such a cover is not used.

Step 5 We move our block to an open area for the purpose of further storage. After 30-40 minutes, remove the bottom, sides and top cover. For a better extraction of the cinder block, we will beat the walls and the longitudinal strip with the cylinders on top with an ordinary hammer.

Step 6 For complete drying, we need at least a day.

Production of cinder blocks using a vibrating machine

Step 1. We knead our solution, taking into account the proportions. Particular attention should be paid to the right amount of water, because the cinder blocks should not spread when you remove them from the mold.

kneading

To find out the correct consistency of the mixture, swipe small test. Squeeze the solution in your hand: if it connects in it, and does not blur when it falls to the ground, this is a good and correct solution.

Step 2. We fill our form with a solution, with a slide.

Step 3 . We turn on the machine for 2-4 seconds, after which the loaded composition will be compacted. We level the mixture with our hands so that the iron pins (cylinders) are visible.

Step 4 If there is not enough mixture in the mold, it needs to be supplemented, the clamp is inserted and the vibrator is turned on again. The completion of the formation is evidenced by the sediment of the clamp on the limiters.

Step 5 . Our vibroform should again be switched on for 6-10 s.

Step 6 . We close the top with a lid with holes for the cylinders. And we make another ramming by raising and lowering the lid 4-5 times.

Step 7 . Then, without turning off the machine, the form is removed - it is enough to take the machine to you.

Up to 500 cinder blocks can be produced per shift using a vibrating machine.

Step 8 . We dry the blocks for 5-10 days. The complete hardening of the resulting building materials will be completed after a month, while the humidity should be high and the air warm.

Step 9. After a day, the blocks can be transferred to storage places (they will not be broken), but they can only be placed together after a week. And if you still add a plasticizer to the solution, then after 6-8 hours they can be moved and stored.

Of course, it is not worth buying a vibrating machine for a single production, but tamping when creating cinder blocks should be given Special attention(the quality of the product depends on this process). In this case, you can use a conventional grinding vibrator, on which it is enough to place our mold with the mixture.

Video - Production of cinder blocks using a vibrator

Features of storage of cinder blocks

The received products are stored in pyramidal piles, one hundred pieces at a time.

At the same time, they fit with small intervals. It is enough for you to dry the material for a couple of months, then you can start building a bathhouse, an extension or a barn.

What are the features of the production of cinder block?

In the production of cinder blocks, special attention should be paid to drying. So, for example, any dent or unevenness will spoil the building material. Another requirement for the quality of the material is the geometry. A large number of irregularities and flaws is a prerequisite for increased costs for finishing the erected walls. Therefore, in order for the product to turn out even, it is necessary to fill the form or vibroform to the brim. Do not skimp on pouring the solution with a slide, because the vibration will shake your mixture.

For better plasticity, when mixing the solution, do not forget to fill in the plasticizer at the rate of 5 g per block. This will save the product from possible cracks, increase strength and frost resistance. To build a small bath, you can knead the solution manually, but a concrete mixer will help speed up the process. It is enough for you to buy or borrow for a while a small unit with a capacity of 02-0.5 cubic meters. m.

Video - Homemade concrete mixer

Before preparing the mixture, the slag is moistened 5-6 hours before. This will allow you to better bind the grains of cement and fractions of the filler. It should be noted that if you are filling wooden or metal molds without the possibility of vibrating, the mixture should be watery.

Pros and cons of using cinder blocks

The advantages of cinder block should include:

• possibility of manufacturing suburban area or in a private house;
• drying of the material can take place both in an autoclave ( industrial production) as well as outdoors(when self-produced);
• cinder block building minimum losses heat;
• the material is inexpensive;
• the construction of the building is carried out quickly, given big sizes blocks;
• when mixing the solution, you can, by changing the proportions, give it certain qualities;
• You can produce a cinder block of any size.

Disadvantages of cinder block:

• low frost resistance, but with the use of a special additive they can be increased;
• there are doubts in terms of environmental friendliness, especially for products made on the basis of blast-furnace slag;
• As for the liquid absorption characteristics, the material has strong moisture absorption and requires special protective coatings;
• fragility (this material is clearly not suitable for the construction of skyscrapers).

1. The blocks made with the addition of cement have the highest strength. The next place is occupied by blocks of lime.
2. If small granules are replaced with part of the sifted sand, then the strength of the products will increase slightly.
3. The combination of cement and lime (or clay) in a ratio of 3: 1 will save money, which will absolutely not win back on quality.
4. Before you start pouring the solution, the molds should be cleaned and wiped. This will prevent the resulting blocks from sticking to the bottom and walls. For such rubbing, diesel fuel, used oil, or similar means are used.
5. The density of the solution is a direct indicator of the rate of solidification. The thicker it is, the faster the block can freeze. The main characteristics of the quality of cinder blocks depend not only on the production technology, but also on the choice of solution. Below are the different types of mixtures, the use of which demonstrates certain characteristics that are required for the material.

Video - Cinder block. Instructions for a beginner

Wall blocks have long been one of the most common building materials. When building a garage, a residential building or other outbuildings for building walls, the cheapest building material are cinder blocks. They are made from almost any waste material. At the same time, cinder blocks are laid into the walls not only on sand-cement mortar, but also on clay mortar, which further reduces the cost of construction. Unlike brick, building blocks much easier to do at home with your own hands. The process of making cinder blocks and the technology is quite simple and accessible to anyone who wants to save money and who likes to do it himself.

Briefly, what is a cinder block?
According to the prevailing opinion, cinder blocks are usually understood as blocks made by vibrocompression (vibroforming) from concrete mortar, the main components of the solution are slag and cement as the main binder. However, today cinder blocks are conditionally called any building blocks obtained by vibrocompression (vibroforming) from a concrete solution. The presence of slag is not necessary - as components of the concrete solution there can be: slag, granite screenings, granite rubble, river rubble, gravel, brick and concrete breakage, hardened cement breakage, glass breakage, expanded clay and even sand.
Usually the size of the cinder block is in the range of 200 mm by 200 mm by 400 mm or less. There are two types of cinder blocks - hollow and solid. There are a great many varieties of blocks: these are ordinary wall blocks(for example, cinder block, smooth block 140), wall blocks (used for the construction of partitions indoors, has a thickness of 90 mm), decorative blocks for walls (decorative block 190), blocks for fences (decorative block 140, decorative corner block), blocks for finishing facades (facade stone), etc. At home, you can also make clay bricks - the choice is yours.

For the manufacture of cinder blocks, you need two things: shape and raw materials.

Form options for cinder blocks

Form from sheet metal 3 mm thick. Together with assistants, using a concrete mixer, you can “produce” up to 300 pieces of blocks per day without much effort. Is it a lot or a little? Judge for yourself: a 6x4 m garage will require 450 such blocks, and 1000 pieces per floor of a 6.5x8 m house.

Form for concrete blocks (all dimensions are internal, welds are external).

Block making mortar prepared like this. Knead a slightly moistened mixture (the amount of water is determined empirically) in the proportion: cement - 1 part, slag or expanded clay - from 7 to 12 (the proportion is given for M400 cement). Having set the form on a flat area, fill it with mortar, ram it with a manual tamper and, having aligned it along the upper edge, cut off the excess with a metal strip. Now carefully remove the form (it is without a bottom) - the block is ready.

Place the form side by side and repeat the process. At the end of the work, do not forget to thoroughly wash the mold with water. After 24 hours, the blocks can already be stored (no more than three in height), making room for the next batch. The size of the form is given in case you decide to lay walls with an additional 1/2 brick cladding. If your building will have walls plastered on both sides, then you can take arbitrary sizes - if only you could then lift such a block with your hands. And when laying walls with a thickness of 50 cm, do not forget to “bandage” with a bonded brick row every two rows of blocks.

The sizes of home-made cinder blocks can be chosen "for yourself".
most the simplest form, which satisfied me the most, I made as follows. I picked up planed boards with a width along the height of the cinder block (140 mm). The length of the board should be no more than 2 m, since working with a longer form is more difficult: you have to do a lot of unnecessary movements. Next you need cross bars. The two extreme crossbars are connected to the longitudinal boards "on sliding grooves" (Fig.).

Form for three cinder blocks

WITH inside longitudinal boards(between the crossbars) every 140 mm, cut with a hacksaw and a chisel transverse grooves with a depth of 7 ... 8 mm. The width of the cut depends on the thickness of the dividing plates made of sheet iron, textolite, getinaks. Suitable plates from another durable sheet material as long as it's smooth enough. From fig. 1 it is clear how to make a mold. To describe it for a long time and there is no point, I just want to say that the finished form is put on absolutely before pouring the solution into it. flat surface. All details of the form made of wood, it is desirable to paint any oil paint, which will provide easier removal of cinder blocks from the mold. Each time before pouring into the form of a solution, all of its internal surfaces wipe with solar oil (diesel oil) or used engine oil. Rub lightly, not too much. To reduce the consumption of the solution, and cinder blocks turned out to be light and with voids, - and this is additional heat in the room, - the molds are filled with a solution to half, after which champagne bottles are pressed into the solution.

Form filled with mortar

If the level of the solution does not rise enough after installing the bottles, required amount solution (to the top of the mold) is added with a trowel. After 2 ... 3 hours, the solution will significantly settle and get stronger, then the bottles are pulled out, carefully turning them around the axis, and immediately washed with water, otherwise the solution will firmly stick to them and further use bottles will be useless.
The process of removing cinder blocks from the mold is very simple. Just lightly tap the mold around the perimeter with a hammer and disassemble it. The side boards are easy to separate, but the separation plates are somewhat more difficult to remove. You will have to carefully beat with a hammer on the protruding plate from above and slightly to the side.
Every day, that is, after 24 hours, I took out the almost hardened cinder blocks from the mold and poured the solution into it again. I did not use any compaction of the solution with a rammer or with the help of vibration. A few words about the solution. Despite the fact that it was quite liquid, cinder blocks, after appropriate exposure, acquired such strength that they the greatest work it was possible then to split or hew.
I took 9 or even 10 parts of slag for one part of cement of the brand "400". There was no marriage. Why did I tell this? Yes, in order to quickly make a solid number of excellent quality cinder blocks with just a few forms. I made cinder blocks in the evening after work every day, and I will say that this work was not a burden to me.I don’t have a concrete mixer and I knead the mortar manually in a pallet with a capacity of 300 p. .

And one more option self-manufacturing blocks. Sheet metal mold.

I chose the dimensions of the blocks 510x250x215 mm (the volume is 14 bricks). I welded 11 molds without bottoms from sheet iron waste. From the sides welded on 2 handles.

Right on the ground I spread the roofing material, put the form. To prevent the mixture from seizing with the walls of the mold, I wipe them from the inside with a rag moistened with used oil or diesel fuel. I fall asleep there hard expanded clay concrete. Ramming is not very strong. I remove the first form after backfilling the 11th - this is about 10-12 minutes later. The blocks stand still for 12 hours. Then I shift them under a canopy. They harden at a positive temperature for 24 days. I make a canopy from roofing material, tarpaulin or polyethylene film. Under it, the blocks will be protected from rain and sun.

Tried make blocks with voids. I inserted two wooden round timber, turned into a cone and wrapped roofing iron. Hollow formers can be round, square, rectangular ... Depending on how the blocks are laid, the wall thickness is 215, 250 or 510 mm.

For thick walls, it is better to make the blocks hollow, for thin walls - filled. Conventionally, walls with a thickness of 215 mm without voids can be called cold, 250 mm - semi-warm, 510 mm with voids - warm.

To make half blocks, I insert a sheet of iron in the center of the mold. In the blanks that are used to form openings in the wall of the house, you have to make wooden plugs to secure the door and window frames.

Tried make building blocks using a vibrator, but the solution goes to the bottom of the mold and the expanded clay does not bind. To prevent this from happening, general form for multiple blocks. The vibrator was fixed on the side. I made the walls of the mold 1/3 higher - this is for concrete shrinkage during vibration.

Fillers can be local non-deficient materials: expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc. I used cement, expanded clay and sand in a ratio of 1: 4: 1 to prepare the mixture.

The hardest work is the preparation of concrete. It is advisable to use a simple home-made concrete mixer or a ready-made purchased one.

Cinder blocks were and are one of the most popular materials for the construction various designs in construction. Their characteristic strength, as well as good thermal insulation properties make it possible to build quickly and relatively easily and quite cheaply. Both a professional and an inexperienced bricklayer can build from them.

Hee, hee. This is how long it takes to vibrate with a perforator so that the mixture exfoliates - you will be tormented sooner. And it is not recommended for reinforcement - so as not to knock it down, do not damage the mesh.
It's just that the efficiency of a perforator - as a vibrator - is very small compared to real vibrators (they expel air faster - the vibration frequency is much higher).

1. I recommend reading SNiP "Bearing and enclosing structures" p.p. 2.11 When compacted concrete mix it is not allowed to support vibrators on reinforcement and embedded products, strands and other formwork fastening elements. The depth of immersion of the deep vibrator in the concrete mixture should ensure its deepening into the previously laid layer by 5 - 10 cm..
A bit of science: When preparing, transporting and laying the concrete mixture is most often in a loose state; aggregate particles are loosely arranged and between them there is a free space filled with air.
The purpose of the compaction process is to ensure high density and uniformity of concrete.
Vibration reduces the adhesion force between the grains of the concrete mix. In this case, the concrete mixture loses its structural strength and acquires the properties of a viscous heavy liquid.
Under the action of vibration, the aggregate particles come into oscillatory motion, the concrete mixture liquefies, acquires increased fluidity and mobility. As a result, it is better distributed in the formwork and fills it, including the space between the reinforcing bars.
The concrete mixture is vibrated using internal (deep), surface and external vibrators. The working part of the internal vibrators, immersed in the concrete mixture, transmits vibrations to it through the body. Surface vibrators, mounted on the concrete mixture to be compacted, transmit vibrations to it through the working platform. External vibrators, mounted on the formwork with a vice or other gripping device, transmit vibrations to the concrete mixture through the formwork.
The scope of various types of vibrators depends on the size and shape of the structure to be concreted, the degree of its reinforcement and the required intensity of concreting. Internal mace-type vibrators are used to compact the concrete mixture placed in massive structures with varying degrees of reinforcement, and internal vibrators with a flexible shaft - in various types heavily reinforced structures.
Surface vibrators compact only the upper layers of concrete and use them when concreting thin slabs and floors. External vibrators compact the concrete mixture in densely reinforced thin-walled structures.
Each type of vibrators has its own effective zone of compaction of the concrete mixture, which is characterized for internal and external vibrators by the radius of action, and for surface vibrators - by the thickness of the layer being worked out. So, depending on the power of the vibrator and the value of the generated amplitudes and frequency of oscillations, the radius of action of the internal vibrators is 15 ... 60 cm, the external vibrators - 20 ... 40 cm, and the working depth of the surface vibrators - 10 ... 30 cm.
The vibration method of compaction is most effective for moderately plastic concrete mixtures with a mobility of 6 ... 8 cm. When more mobile mixtures are vibrated, delamination is observed.
The quality of the design depends to a large extent on right choice optimal mode vibrating concrete mix. If the duration of vibration is insufficient, the concrete mixture may be loosely laid, and if it is excessive, its separation may occur.. The duration of vibration at one position depends on the mobility of the concrete mixture and the type of vibrator. Compaction of concrete mixtures by surface vibrators is carried out within 20...60 s, deep - 20...40 s, external - 50...90 s. The duration of vibration of rigid concrete mixtures must be no less than the stiffness index of this mixture. Visually, the duration of vibration can be established by the following signs: the cessation of settling, the acquisition of a uniform appearance, the horizontalness of the surface, and the appearance of a mixture of cement laitance on the surface.
As each layer of concrete is laid, the vibrator is moved from one position to another. The distance between the positions of the internal vibrators should not exceed one and a half radius of their action. When compacting the layer to be laid, the internal vibrator is immersed 5...8 cm into the underlying layer in order to work out the joint between the layers and ensure the solidity of the concrete. When rearranging a surface vibrator, it is necessary that its working platform overlaps the adjacent vibrated area by at least 10 cm.
Sealing by bayonet is carried out manually with the help of screws. Due to the complexity and low productivity, the method is used in exceptional cases when concreting thin-walled and densely reinforced structures, as well as when using highly mobile (with a cone draft of more than 10 cm) and cast mixtures in order to avoid their delamination during vibration.
Compaction by tamping is carried out by manual and pneumatic rammers when laying very hard concrete mixtures in low-reinforced structures, as well as in cases where it is impossible to use vibrators due to the negative impact of vibration on nearby equipment. Mixtures are compacted in layers 10 ... 15 cm thick.

Profitability homemade cinder block there is no doubt, but are there really reliable ways to ensure consistently high quality at sufficiently high production volumes? Let's try to answer this question and consider the main methods homemade cinder block with your own hands.

Choice of manufacturing method

Actually, there are not so many ways to make a cinder block as there are devices for this. In all cases, cinder concrete must be kneaded in a concrete mixer, in no case by hand. At this stage, the sequence of adding ingredients, their proportions, duration and other mixing features play a role.

But for the formation of cinder block there is a large number of all kinds of matrices, presses and machines. In general, all production methods can be divided into:

• manual, when the mass is formed by tamping in single forms;
• partially mechanized, where manual lever presses;
• fully automated, based on vibration shrinkage or hydraulic pressing.

It is obvious that mechanization makes it possible to increase the accuracy of production parameters, so the methods of lever pressing and vibration shrinkage are most preferable. Small hand tools will be relevant if you need to produce only a couple of hundred stones.

After molding and setting the mass, the cinder block must be removed from the mold. These actions should also be mechanized, most of the marriage appears precisely at the cage stage. The simplest and most reliable devices for this are a lifting mold block and a damper.

Mechanisms can also be used for drying and storage. At a minimum, when moving raw material to the main drying site, it is preferable to use trolleys and manual forklifts.

Equipment: what to buy and what to make yourself

The desire to save money is quite reasonable, but there is equipment that is very difficult to assemble yourself and vice versa: you simply cannot buy some devices.

The production cycle, disassembled by stages

To prepare cinder concrete, you first need to mix bulk materials then add water little by little. You need to knead until the mixture acquires sufficient plasticity and stops crumbling if you squeeze it with your hands. It is better to add water with a sprayer, gradually wetting the mixture until it is semi-dry.

The prepared mixture can be poured directly onto the cement floor or onto a rigid sheet substrate near the machine. From there, we collect it with a shovel and carefully fill out the form. Periodically, vibration shrinkage is necessary to compact the concrete and squeeze out large air bubbles. When the form is filled to the brim with a mixture, it must be tamped.

In some machines, a reciprocal matrix with a small oppression is used for this, with which the cinder block is compacted in vibration mode. In other cases, the same frame is connected to a system of levers and simply squeezes the mass inside the mold. At the end of the molding, you need to wait 5-10 seconds and remove the mold from the product, leaving it on the floor for pre-drying. If the forms are equipped with shutters, it is better to immediately lift the block and place the product on a pallet.

The cinder block is dried from several hours to several days. It all depends on the composition of the mixture and the technical equipment of the site. Subsequently, the products are carefully moved to the place of storage, where they are stored.

What composition of cinder concrete is optimal

As the main filler, it is better to use granite screenings. Its structure is small scales, such material is well fastened in mass and gives excellent strength. A lighter, but not as hard, cinder block is made from crushed slag from energy and metallurgy enterprises. The latter type is characterized by the best heat-insulating properties.

Cement - only Portland grade not lower than 400. More precisely, cement grade 300 can also be used, but with an increase in its content by 15-25%.

Sand is used in the cinder block to increase the density, which is not always required. The material must be of quarry origin, necessarily washed. In total, sand in the total mass up to 20%. The filler is mixed with cement 400 in a ratio of 8:1 or 9:1.

What else can be included:

• sawdust of all types;
• styrofoam crumb;
• brick, concrete battle;
• plasticizers and modifiers.

The use of the latter will provide an early setting of the mixture and a relatively free set of products. It is also recommended to use additives to increase frost resistance. It will be useful to familiarize yourself with the standards set forth in GOST 6133 as amended in 1999 - here are not only the requirements for the feedstock, but also the rules for organizing production, some specifications and quality control methods.

Cinder block storage

The cinder block gains full hardness a few weeks after production. All this time it is exposed to natural street drying under a canopy. If there is no place for storing the cinder block in one layer, it is allowed to stack pallets with one row of cinder block on top of each other. For the period of the main drying, it is important to ensure good ventilation of the stack and free removal of moisture.

After two weeks of drying, the cinder block can be stored without pallets, but be sure to at least cover it so that rainwater did not wash out the fasteners. If you need a cinder block for your own construction, prepare it in advance: one winter in outdoor conditions and most of the marriage will manifest itself.

When pouring concrete, builders try to ensure complete penetration of the mass into all cavities of the formwork, and prevent the formation of air bubbles inside. Under the pressure of its own weight, the concrete becomes less fluid and may be unevenly distributed.

Another problem is poor wetting of the reinforcement. If air remains around the metal rods, the reinforcement actively corrodes, not to mention the reduction in structural strength. Air cavities inside the mass of concrete are great place for moisture condensation.

During frosts, the ice formed inside the monolith breaks the concrete to microcracks.

Vibrators are used to minimize negative phenomena. They are divided into several groups:

surface vibrator

It is a plate or ruler that vibrates under the action of a mechanical device. The device is moved over the poured solution, ramming the surface and causing compaction of the deep layers. It is used when laying screeds of small depth, since vibrations in the mass of concrete are transmitted over a short distance.

How to properly level concrete with a vibrating screed - practical advice

Deep (submersible) vibrator with a mechanical drive

Based on the name, it works inside the mass of the solution, spreading vibrations throughout the depth. The effectiveness of such a device is an order of magnitude higher, since it covers all layers of concrete, and not just the surface.

Structurally, it consists of a submersible element, a motor and connecting hose, which transmits energy to the working tip.

Deep concrete vibrator Sturm CV71101. We check the reliability of the vibrator in operation

The main difference from the mechanical one is that the drive is located directly in the working mace. A small electric motor has insufficient power, so it is used to power it. alternating current high frequency - several hundred Hz. For this, high-frequency vibrators are equipped with a converter.

Despite technological differences, the principle of operation and tasks for all structures are the same. Under the action of vibrations, the mass of concrete becomes fluid, and penetrates into all cavities inside the formwork.

The wetting of the surface of the reinforcement is almost 100%, which ensures reliable protection from corrosion. When treated with a vibrator, air bubbles come to the surface, the mass becomes homogeneous and monolithic.