- it is laborious, and subject to all technologies, it will last up to 10 days. But if the price of painting MDF scares you away, you can try painting MDF with your own hands. How and how to paint MDF at home?
To paint MDF at home, you will need putty, a primer, the actual paint (paintwork material - LKM), patina and acrylic lacquer(for matt surfaces) or gloss varnish and polishing pastes (for glossy surfaces).
The process of painting MDF includes several stages, and all stages alternate with drying and grinding
putty
Primer
Painting
Patination or varnishing and polishing MDF
Preparing MDF for painting
Before painting MDF, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the plate itself. What does the preparation of MDF boards for painting include:
1)Grinding MDF to prepare the surface of the plate for the primer. Thanks to grinding with a grain of 120-240, firstly, surface irregularities are polished, and secondly, a layer of paraffin is ground off, which would prevent the primer and paint from soaking into the wood. On complex bends, it is better to grind MDF with an emery sponge, or completely refuse to grind thin cutters on early stages. Still, MDF is a rather fragile material, it is better not to crawl it once again.
2) Before painting MDF, you need to make sure that the material does not need to be puttied, for example, you need large dents, edges, or gaps between parts if the product consists of several elements. For this purpose, acrylic putty is best suited - it is quite elastic and does not crack over time. After drying, its remnants are carefully removed, the MDF surface is sanded for painting.
3)MDF primer before painting. As a rule, MDF is primed twice before painting in order to give an ideal smoothness to the surface of the plate. At the first stage of priming MDF, the primer-insulator is sprayed with a spray gun (nozzle - from 1.6 to 2.4 mm, 2-4 atm.) at the rate of 90-100 grams / "square". This primer should prevent the pile of the MDF board from rising up and absorbing paint or varnish: the primer gets into the loose areas of the MDF, and after application the paint will not sag. After the primer dries, the surface is sanded with sandpaper or an emery sponge, but very carefully - it is easy to wipe a thin layer of soil to the MDF board.
The second primer is carried out with a white polyurethane primer at a rate of at least 150 grams/square. The soil layer should be given time to dry - 12-24 hours, and then sanded. If the primer spools are visible on the skin, it means that it has not dried yet.
How can MDF be primed before painting? A mixture of the paintwork of your choice for painting with the addition of water. For example: 25% enamel on water based, 25% varnish, 50% water.
If we talk about general recommendations on the MDF primer, then it is carried out with an airbrush, starting with the most complex elements of the cutters, then moving on to the edge, and then to the rest of the surface. First, the part is covered along, then across, overlapping.
Painting MDF
MDF painting technology is approximately the same as the primer technology. It is easiest to paint MDF with an airbrush (nozzle - 1.6-2 mm, pressure - 2-4 atm.), But in the absence of a roller or brush, it will do. The painting parameters will directly depend on the specific coating: the interval for applying layers, their number, recommended air pressure and nozzle diameter, paint consumption (60-200 grams / "square"), spray method. This information can be found in the instructions. 
How to paint MDF? Polyurethane, water-based enamels are best suited for painting MDF - they do not have a strong odor, dry quickly, are relatively safe, and are resistant to ultraviolet radiation. Although you can take alkyd, acrylic or oil paints.
If there are smudges of paint on the painted surface, they should be removed with a clerical knife; when small debris, villi, midges get in, they are immediately removed with a small sharp object. Irregularities are carefully polished after drying. By the way, grinding after applying all layers of paintwork materials will be simpler - enamel or paint lays down in a thick layer and levels the surface.
Once you're behind, it's time to apply either varnish (to give a glossy surface) or patina (to give texture to matte surfaces).
Coating MDF with patina
As a rule, MDF facades are patinated with complex cutters to emphasize their texture. The composition of the patina is applied directly to the dried layer of paint using the same spray gun, brush, roller, swab, etc. After the patina on the MDF dries, the surface is sanded again, the patina is covered with a layer of acrylic matte varnish at the rate of about 150 grams / "square" and dried for a day. Finished MDF painting.
Lacquering MDF to a glossy finish
Glossy varnish is applied to the painted MDF in two layers at intervals according to the instructions, and at the rate of 130-150 grams / "square". Lacquered MDF is dried for at least a day, after which they proceed to the final sanding, moving from coarser to finer grit. To prevent the varnish particles from overheating and rolling off during grinding, the painted MDF surface is sprayed with water from time to time. In another week, the MDF will be ready for final polishing. MDF with a grinder, abrasive and non-abrasive pastes. 
So, if you are still wondering: “Is it possible to paint MDF”, we answer - it is possible, but difficult. Especially if you are a beginner painter, or your MDF is of poor quality, or you have little time for all these drying times. In any case, we told you how to paint MDF with your own hands, and do it yourself or trust the professionals - the choice is yours.
We bring to your attention a video on how MDF is painted by professionals.
Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board of the Sobcorrespondent of the online publication "AtmWood. Wood-industrial bulletin"
MDF is widely used in the furniture industry, primarily because of its cheapness. Most often, this material is pasted over with a laminated film. However, there are situations when it becomes necessary to stain it. We will discuss the features of this process below.
Facades for painting MDF: features and benefits of application
The mass production of facades from MDF led to their wide popularity among the population. This material made from wood fibers that are pressed under high temperature. MDF boards have increased strength, which is ensured by a good connection of the fibers to each other.
Most often, this material is used for the manufacture of furniture facades, which cover the main part of the furniture and prevent it from getting into it. different kind substances.
If we compare MDF facades with other types of furniture, then they, in comparison with them, have a large number of advantages. First of all, it is resistance to mechanical damage, a long period of operation,
In addition, the facade of their MDF is resistant to vaporization and high humidity. In the course of production of plates the synthetic substances harmful to a human body are not used. Also, various furniture can be made from MDF boards, which has almost any shape and configuration.
Benefits MDF facades note:
- resistance to moisture;
- resistance to high and low temperatures;
- high strength indicators;
- manufacturability and ease of use;
- affordable cost;
- resistance to the formation of fungus and mold.
Do-it-yourself painting of MDF kitchen facades
It is preferable to paint MDF boards indoors, the total area of which is more than 40 square meters. In addition, it should have a separate place for painting parts, as well as an area where they will be polished. Optimum temperature for work is 19-20 degrees Celsius.
In the painting chamber should be equipped exhaust device, which helps to get rid of the smell of paint and a table that ensures the rotation of the part in the right direction. It is necessary to equip racks in the drying chamber, and a vacuum cleaner in the grinding room.
In order to cover the facade with varnish or paint, you will need a pneumatic spray gun and a compressor that is connected to it to supply the necessary pressure. Using an angle grinder, the finished product is polished.
Before choosing plates for painting, you should pay attention to their quality. Inspect the slab for the presence of pile, it is preferable to choose a material in which the pile is not raised. Milling is carried out at the maximum speed of the device. Thus, the surface of the plate will remain as smooth as possible. Please note that after preparation, the plates are particularly fragile, so do not put heavy or sharp objects on them, there is a risk of material deformation.
In order to hide the corners from damage, they should be processed with special edge cutters. Please note that the parts should be sanded around the entire perimeter to remove the protective wax layer, which will prevent the paint from adhering to the surface. For these purposes, it is preferable to use an eccentric type grinder. For processing difficult areas, it is recommended to use an emery sponge.
If the MDF facade contains joints between individual plates, between which there are small gaps, then to remove them, a vapor-filling primer should be used. When it dries, the surface is sanded with sandpaper.
Before you start painting MDF facades with your own hands, you need to apply a primer layer. On the one hand, it will improve the adhesion of paint to the surface, and on the other hand, it will reduce paint consumption. In the beginning, complex relief areas should be covered. Next, the end sections and the main surface are primed. The work is carried out with the help of a spray gun. First make longitudinal movements, and then transverse. In the process of covering the facade, a 50% overlay of one layer on the second occurs. Using this technology, both ground coating and painting of the MDF facade are carried out.
If it is necessary to paint both sides of the facade, first work is carried out inside, and then, after the inside has dried, outside.
The procedure for priming the MDF facade consists of two processes, which we will consider below:
1. Applying a primer that acts as an insulator. This substance protects the surface from excessive absorption of paint and prevents the pile from rising on the boards. When the primer dries, grinding of the surface begins with an emery sponge. However, all work is carried out carefully so as not to erase the soil from the plate.
2. The second stage - painting with a primer with a polyurethane base. After applying this material, the surface becomes white color. The drying time of this layer is from 10 to 24 hours. Next, the surface is sanded again and prepared for painting.
Painting MDF facades, technology and principle of execution
To perform painting of facades, an airbrush should be used. In relation to the type of paint, the diameter of the nozzle, the type and direction of paint movement, the method and layers of spraying are determined. Therefore, before painting, you should read the instructions for using the paint.
For the use of complex compositions, it is necessary to pre-mix certain components in the right amount. In addition, make sure that the thickness of the paint will be comparable to the nozzle of the spray gun to avoid problems when painting facades.
Please note that in no case should work be carried out outdoors or indoors with an open window to prevent contamination of the surface with dust, hair and other small substances. To remove them, use tweezers or a needle. In order to get rid of smudges, use a clerical knife, and clean the place of removal with a skin.
If the facade has a matte shade and at the same time complex milling is performed, then work on its patination is performed. For the application of this composition does not need a preliminary primer. Patination is carried out on top of the paint, a roller, brush, spray gun or sponge is used to complete the work.
To remove excess, use grinding materials. After that, the surface is covered with a transparent varnish, which protects the facade from mechanical influences.
How to paint the facade after paint
After applying paint to the MDF facade, it is treated with compounds that improve the appearance of the finished coating and its resistance to scratches. At the same time, the paint acquires a deeper shade, becomes fresher. For these purposes, an acrylic-based varnish with a gloss effect is used.
This composition must be applied in at least two layers. In this case, the application of the second layer is carried out only after the complete drying of the first. After covering the facade with varnish, it is transported to drying chamber. After two days, the products are polished. After a week after varnishing, the MDF facade is polished and prepared for use.
In order to polish the finished product, use grinder. In the process of grinding, you should spray water on the plates with a spray gun, so the facade will cool and the varnish will not roll off the surface. At the end of the grinding process, the surface has a uniform matte texture.
Completes the work - polishing the MDF facade. For these purposes, it is recommended to use an angle grinder, which has a circle of foam rubber and special agent in the form of an abrasive paste. First, the composition covers the entire surface of the facade, then the machine rubs it evenly over the plate. Polishing of the product is carried out at high speeds of the device. Note that first the movements are horizontal, and then vertical. Moisten the polishing wheel periodically to prevent it from overheating. In order for the surface to have a deep color, we recommend applying furniture wax to the circle.
To ensure the finishing of the product, use a paste with a non-abrasive base. Thus, the surface of the MDF facade will look like a mirror. Further the facade is packed into boxes from the made foam polyethylene and corrugated cardboard. This material provides reliable protection facade from mechanical damage, scratches.
Painting MDF facades glossy: furniture restoration
Since MDF furniture is quite often used for arranging apartments, houses and office space, during operation, it loses its attractive appearance and needs restoration. In addition, another reason for painting MDF facades is to change the interior of the room, in which the old facade simply does not fit in color.
To paint the MDF facade, you do not need special skills to work with special equipment, you just need to follow the instructions below.
Boards based on wood fibers are perfectly combined with paint, this is due to the following reasons:
- since the slab is homogeneous, natural and monolithic, it does not require any preparation additional work to level the material, it is enough to remove the old paint, if any, and grind the surface;
- since MDF is resistant to mechanical stress, using paint on its surface, you can make different textured elements.
Stages of work on painting MDF facades:
- preparatory work;
- applying a primer;
- determining the type of paint;
- staining.
In order to paint paneled MDF facades, you will need:
- tools for applying paint;
- masking tape;
- hair dryer, with which the facade will be heated;
- protective gloves;
- soil composition;
- sandpaper.
To begin with, all fittings are removed from the furniture facade. For removing old paint, use a building hair dryer. Please note that manual paint removal may damage the surface and reduce the aesthetic appearance of the surface. If there are small mechanical defects on the boards, they should be removed by applying a putty designed to work with wooden surfaces. Finishes the surface treatment with sandpaper.
When choosing a primer, it is best to stand on compounds designed for working with wood. The application of the primer is carried out both with a brush and a roller or spray gun. The minimum drying time of the primer is 24 hours.
Paint for MDF facades is selected based on the desired coloring effect. Most best option paints for painting MDF facades - car enamel. Such compositions are characterized by high resistance to moisture, good strength characteristics and resistance to change. temperature regime. There are a huge number of colors of car enamel, which differ in depth, shade or type of surface obtained. Therefore, choosing desired paint, your facade will easily fit into any interior style.
After the primer has dried, paint is applied to the surface of the facade. If there are areas on the facade that will not be painted, then they are sealed with masking tape. Apply paint either longitudinally or transversely. In order for the paint to be evenly distributed on the surface, use an airbrush. The result is a finish with either a glossy or matte finish.
There is another option for painting MDF facades; glizal is used for these purposes. She is bought in construction stores. Glyzali dilution option possible regular paint, in this case, after staining, the surface acquires an interesting texture. First dilute a small amount of the compound and apply paint to the paper surface, if satisfactory, dilute all the paint.
For staining with glisal, you should prepare a tool with which paint will be applied and wear gloves that protect your hands from getting the composition on the skin. In addition, you will need a sponge, plastic bag and two brushes - one small, and the second large. Apply the glisal to the façade in an even but thick enough layer. Next, use a sponge, gradually applying it to the facade. In relation to the pores on the sponge, the surface will be covered with small bubbles. If you want to get lines on the surface of the facade, use a crumpled cellophane bag. In this case, the effect will be more pronounced. Abstract elements will also help to create a small brush. It is possible to combine different effects with each other, it all depends on your preferences and imagination. Please note that after the glazing has dried, nothing should be corrected, since the surface has acquired an unpresentable appearance. To fix the effect, it is recommended to cover the MDF facade with varnish.
Painting MDF facades video:
MDF - fibreboard - is a relatively young material. Its production began in the USA in 1966. In a short period of time, this material has almost completely replaced wood in furniture production.
Furniture facades have become commonplace in our kitchens, in our offices and in many other places.
MDF is a medium density material, which is made by pressing (under high pressure and at high temperature) fine chips. Lignin acts as a binding material - a substance of natural origin contained in wood.
Of course, in terms of its strength characteristics, this material is significantly inferior to wood, however, as a material for surface finishing, it is a worthy replacement for it (wood). The main advantages of MDF include the following:
- Good resistance to moisture;
- Heat resistant;
- High surface strength;
- Very technologically advanced and easy to use;
- Low cost;
- Resistant to various microorganisms and fungi.
The use of MDF for finishing furniture facades gave a new impetus to the flight of design ideas and made it possible to significantly expand the possibilities of decorating furniture.
But DDF facades, like facades made of other materials, lose their luster over time. During operation, they may require replacement, or the furniture facades have ceased to harmonize with the respectable appearance of a freshly renovated kitchen. Whatever the reason, there are two possible solutions. Facades need to be either changed or repainted.
Painting MDF facades is a relatively simple matter and does not require any special knowledge from the performer. If desired and necessary materials and tools, this task is quite capable of coping ordinary person not experienced in modern building technologies.
In this article, we will talk about how to paint the facade of MDF with your own hands.
Wood fiber boards lend themselves perfectly to painting. This fact once again confirms the high quality of this material and its high manufacturability. To understand the reasons for such a loyal attitude of the material to the products of the paint and varnish industry, you should pay attention to the main advantages of MDF:
- Due to the uniformity, naturalness and solidity of the surface, the material does not need additional surface preparation for painting, unlike most existing materials. If there is a layer of old paint on the surface of the fiberboard, then all surface preparation will consist in removing this layer, which will not be difficult and will not take a lot of time;
- The surface of MDF is very resistant to mechanical deformations. Due to this, the surface can not only be painted, but even make minor changes to the surface texture.
We paint MDF on our own
The algorithm for painting a furniture facade from MDF with your own hands includes the following steps:
- Surface preparation;
- Primer;
- Choice of type and color of paint;
- Applying paint.
In the process of performing these operations, you will need the following materials and tools:
- Roller and paint brush;
- Scotch masking;
- Building hair dryer;
- Latex gloves;
- Primer for wood;
- Fine-grained sandpaper.
Surface preparation
First of all, in the process of surface preparation, it is necessary to remove all fittings from it.
As mentioned above, the MDF surface, provided that it does not have mechanical damage, does not require preparation for painting. The layer of old paint must be removed with a building hair dryer. Do not attempt this operation manually - it will take a long time and may cause significant damage to the surface of the material. If there are noticeable mechanical damages on the MDF surface, they can be removed with wood putty. At the end of the preparation process, the surface must be carefully treated with fine-grained sandpaper.
Surface primer
As a primer for an MDF surface, a wood primer is best. The method of applying the primer is entirely up to you. Can be used paint brush, roller or spray.
It will take a day for the primer to dry completely.
Choice of paint type and color
When choosing the type of paint for an MDF facade, it is recommended to give preference to auto enamel. Representatives of this relatively new family of paints and varnishes are characterized by high heat and moisture resistance, and are able to create a durable coating.
Modern manufacturers of car enamels offer consumers a wide selection of products in rich colors. There is no doubt that in this kaleidoscope of colors and shades you will be able to choose the best color option for yourself, which will allow furniture facades to harmoniously fit into the interior of your room.
Paint application
Paint selected. The primer is dry. You can proceed to what you started all this for, to apply paint. Seal the areas not intended to be painted, if any, with masking tape and proceed to paint the surface.
How to paint MDF furniture at home
The method and method of applying the paint is up to you. Paint must be applied in one direction.
As a result, you will get a durable, lacquered or matte coating, depending on the texture of the paint, that will give furniture facades the new kind and will reliably protect them for a long time.
The video shows the painting of MDF facades:
If you are skeptical about your abilities and do not want to take risks, then you should seek help from specialists. But in this case, the price of painting MDF facades will be significantly higher and will range from 1200 to 2000 rubles per square meter surfaces.
MDF products are painted in two cases. The first is when application is required protective coating, the second - for decoration purposes. In this case, various paints and varnishes. How to paint MDF will be discussed below.
Coloring
Benefits of staining MDF
Currently, this material is actively used in the creation of furniture, interior doors, as well as finishing panels. And all of them are subject to coloring, which acts as a decorative and finishing coating.
Its use provides the following benefits:
- The painted MDF element is not afraid of elevated temperatures - thanks to this, it is possible to use it in the kitchen, where hot dishes will be placed on it;
- Decorating in non-standard colors will help add brightness and originality to the interior of the room - it can be metallic, mother-of-pearl or other unusual colors;
Mother of pearl panel
- The absence of unhealthy chemical compounds is a definite plus for painting MDF at home - the only condition for this is the use of high-quality paints and varnishes;
- Durability - applying paint can significantly extend the life of the product.
Of course, this method of protecting surfaces also has disadvantages. They lie in the fact that the price of painting parts significantly exceeds the cost of pasting such products. decorative film. In addition, under the influence sun rays, the painted surface may fade.
Materials for painting MDF
Since MDF is a wood product, it can be coated with almost any paint or wood varnish. But get real quality coating possible only with the use of specialized formulations.
These include:
- polyurethane primer,
- polyurethane paint,
- as well as varnish for MDF.
Let's talk about them in more detail.
Polyurethane primer
Polyurethane primer
Thinking about how you can paint the MDF panels, you first need to take care of the priming of the products. It will prevent the absorption of paint into the material, thereby reducing its consumption.
In this case, a special water-based polyurethane primer is required. It will hide the texture of the material and create a layer that has high hardness and adhesion. In addition, the resulting coating will be smooth and easy to sand.
It is best to apply this primer with a sprayer. In its absence, it is possible to use a roller or brush. Subsequent drying takes 8-10 hours and is carried out at room temperature.
Advice! For achievement best result this procedure must be carried out in full accordance with the instructions established by the instructions for the use of this composition.
Polyurethane enamel on MDF
Polyurethane enamel
Compared to other paints and varnishes, it has the following advantages:
- the coating obtained with its help is wear-resistant and chemically resistant;
- odorless, because it does not contain volatile components in its composition;
- can be used to color components intended for both indoor and outdoor use.
It is produced by various manufacturers. Products of the Italian brands Sirka and Sivam are in great demand. Their popularity among polyurethane materials for MDF is akin to that of Zinga electrically conductive paint, in a number of compositions for anti-corrosion metal treatment.
Sirca enamel
Such polyurethane paint can be two- or one-component. The first type requires the addition of a hardener before use.
The second variety does not need such an additive and is available in a ready-to-use form. And one and the other type is applied by sprayer, roller or brush.
These coloring compositions are sold, as well as fire-retardant paints for Polystil metal, in special metal buckets. Their mass can be from 1 to 25 kilograms.
Along with the aforementioned Sirk and Sivam brands, other brands such as Tikkurila and Teknos are also successful. But they are all quite expensive.
Therefore, if necessary, paints and varnishes from other, less well-known manufacturers can be used instead. Or do not use polyurethane, but cheaper alkyd enamels.
You should also pay attention to acrylic and oil paints. In particular, when deciding how to paint an MDF arch, you can take a closer look at domestic acrylic compositions.
Advice! Choose moisture resistant dyes.
Painting mdf cabinet. Is it possible?
The product covered with them can be easily washed in the future, which is very convenient.
Lacquer on MDF
In the photo - polyurethane varnish
This specialized varnish is used for finishing objects from MDF or for their tinting. It forms a smooth coating that is resistant to both mechanical and chemical influences. The resulting surface can be either matte or glossy.
This varnish is odorless and is a two-component. This means that in order to prepare the working composition, a hardener must be added to it.
After that, the mixture should have time to use up within two to three hours. It can be applied by hand with a sprayer.
Conclusion
Painting MDF can significantly increase its service life, as well as make the product more attractive and resistant to elevated temperatures. Since MDF is a wood material, it can be processed with almost any paint or varnish for wood (see also the article “Painting MDF furniture fronts”).
But to get the best result, it is still worth using specialized formulations. This is a polyurethane primer, as well as polyurethane enamel and varnish on MDF. They allow you to create a hard and wear-resistant coating, which can have a wide variety of colors.
More information on this topic will tell you the video in this article.
painting MDF with water-based enamel
I had to work with another kind board materials- with MDF (MDF - Medium Density Fiberboard - medium density fibreboard). He made a cabinet in a baguette frame, a bedside table and screens for batteries. MDF painting was carried out using an airbrush (spray gun). But the technological steps will be the same as with manual painting methods.
One of the advantages of MDF is its high dimensional stability and ease of processing. The advantage of water-based enamels is their relative environmental friendliness and safety for the “painter” and in operation, plus UV resistance and quick drying “to the touch” and to the next layer.
Painting MDF facades
Also, they almost do not smell (and do not stink 🙂 and are fireproof. More or less normal enamels start at 500 rubles / liter. Beckers costs more than 1000 rubles / liter. Plus tinting from 50 rubles per bright hues and up to 400 rubles. for the dark ones. I was counting on 300 rubles per liter out of naivety for everything.
To paint MDF, you need to go through the following steps:
1 - preparing MDF for priming (grinding);
2 - MDF primer;
3 - first interlayer grinding;
4 - painting (first layer);
5 - grinding;
6 - final painting (if you're lucky with preliminary stages) or repetition of grinding and painting to the desired quality;
7 - guidance "gloss" of the surface.
The photo shows 4 surfaces in order of reading along the arrow:
- bare MDF;
- after priming;
- after applying putty;
- finishing surface.
Stage 1 is important because upper layer MDF may contain paraffin, which, to put it mildly, has poor adhesion to paintwork materials. At the same time, possible irregularities will be removed. I sanded with a grain of 120-240 ... according to the sensations. Milling can be sanded at this stage, but it is easy to lick off the fragile edges of MDF. Yes, and the pile after the primer will rise.
Stage 2 may include putty. If you prepare plywood for painting, then putty is required, otherwise the structure of the tree and the ends characteristic of plywood will be visible, even under enamel.
Primed with the same enamel, only white, diluted 1:1 with water. You can add varnish, for example 1 part of enamel + 1 varnish + 1 or 2 water.
The putty was prepared by adding factory latex putty (Olympus for wood) to the enamel to a thick creamy state. Applied with a spatula over the primer. The photo is applied with a roller. After grinding, the surface was perfect.
Stage 3 is one of the most complex, long, laborious and important in case of complex surface topography, for example, in the presence of milling. The first interlayer grinding removes all raised fibers and other critical irregularities and roughness. I was afraid to even think about how to grind the profile in the photo.
Good idea comrade. The essence of the idea is that a thin film is laid on the profile, and gypsum is applied to it, which hardens exactly along the profile. Then the film is replaced with sandpaper. I didn’t have gypsum, but I had a thermal gun for glue sticks. So I made the answer from pieces of MDF and silicone glue. I used sandpaper waterproof grit 220-500. For grinding semicircular grooves, whole glue sticks were ideal, which I wrapped with sandpaper.
Steps 3 and 4 took about 8 hours to make the frame of one battery screen bezel. Why it takes so long, even after production, to comprehend and accept it is difficult.
4. Everything seems to be clear, but no. An airbrush with an appropriate nozzle (I have 1.8 mm) allows you to apply undiluted enamel in a fairly thick layer. This is what you should use at this stage, just keep in mind the maximum possible wet film thickness at a time (different manufacturers may give different recommendations). Of course, it is safer and more technologically correct to apply many thin layers, but time is also a resource ... and it happens that it simply does not exist anymore.
If there are smudges, you can leave them and let dry. Then carefully cut off with a clerical knife, grind at the end with sandpaper with a fine grain of 800-1000 and rub with a rag. The surface may become more even and glossy than in the "safe" area. I think it is also possible to process the finishing layer, if the car takes time and you need an ideal surface.
Since when spraying on the main surface and the ends, a different amount of paint and varnish falls, you can first spray on the ends, then on the surface itself, then again on the ends. If the part is large, then you can also go around the second circle around the entire part if the enamel has “grabbed”.
The photo shows screens for MDF batteries. Primed and sanded on top, and painted on the bottom with the first layer of enamel. By the way, there you can see the final result of painting closer.
5. Subsequent sanding is much faster and easier because the previous layer (possibly thick) of enamel fills and levels the surface.
6. Since the enamels that I found were semi-matt, to increase the gloss, I added a glossy water-based parquet varnish 1: 1 to the finish layer. Since varnish has a much lower viscosity than enamel, this mixture also has a rather liquid consistency. What is reflected in the technique and the amount of application of diluted enamel on the surface without smudges.
7. Checking the surface for tiny "bonuses" (dust particles, hairs ...) and removing them. If desired, you can polish, although sales managers say that water-based coatings are not polished.
This is because an important feature of aqueous coatings is their long final polymerization. Usually 7-14 days are indicated, after which the surface will gain the declared hardness and resistance to detergents. If the layer is thick, then the process can take months. This time.
Most water-based coatings supplied or produced in the post-Soviet space form a film that “melts” under the influence of a relatively low temperature. This is two.
And polishing is friction and heat. So the polishing of "water" is a very peculiar process, in preparation for which, the heated particles torn out by a thin / fine abrasive stick together with others and form spools that stick to the abrasive surfaces during finishing grinding. Therefore, they often need to be cleaned. But this feature can help when finishing with non-abrasive materials, such as a soft buff at low speed or soft cloth manually.
Since the process is peculiar, it is desirable to make a sample on which to look for the best polishing technique. And if the result does not suit you, then it is better to look for other options.
For beginners, of course, it is better to paint horizontal surfaces. I wanted that too. But I have few horizontal surfaces, but a lot of details. Therefore, a vertical stand had to be built, on which about 5 m2 of parts could be placed.
After such an experience, you understand why painting costs from 2000 rubles / m2.
upd 11/20/2015 (almost 5 years after writing the article… since then I have worked with both oils and two-component mega smelly paints based on solvents)
Now there are modern water pipes that are well ground and polished.
Updating a kitchen set in our time can be quite simple. To do this, you only need to paint the facades of the kitchen, after which the cabinets will acquire a second life and please the owner for more than one year. You can change the appearance of the panels if their surface has faded, burned out and lost its aesthetics, or when the hostess wants to diversify the atmosphere and revise the interior of the kitchen.
The wallpaper on the walls must be replaced after a few years, the curtains can be rotated at least every month, depending on the mood, and the furniture, as a rule, lasts long enough and its appearance, over the years, begins to bother. But it turns out that in order to change the look of the kitchen, it is not at all necessary to buy a new set. It is enough just to purchase the enamel of the color you like and repaint the furniture facades.
How to paint MDF panels
Moreover, you can do it yourself.
What materials are used in the manufacture of facades
First of all, it is necessary to decide what is behind the definition of "furniture facades". They represent the front part of the cabinets, represented by the end part drawers, as well as doors:
- swing open;
- sliding;
- rising;
- descending;
- folding "accordion".
Facades for the kitchen are made in one piece and prefabricated (paneled or framed) from:
- natural wood;
- laminated or painted MDF;
- plastic;
- impact resistant glass.
The aesthetic perception of furniture as a whole depends on the appearance of the facades. They are able to decorate even the most unsightly frame. In addition to performing a decorative function, panels must meet basic operational requirements, such as:
- moisture resistance;
- resistance to temperature changes;
- resistance to mechanical damage;
- ease of care.
natural wood
Kitchen furniture with wooden facades harmoniously fits into the premises large sizes. Doors are made in solid or paneled versions, but there are often more affordable options for consumers - veneered panels, which are based on cheaper material.
The advantages of a furniture set with wooden doors are its environmental friendliness and aristocracy, durability and demand, which does not depend on fashion trends. But, unfortunately, solid wood facades are too expensive; over time, their surface begins to darken, absorb odors and moisture.
From the array it is difficult to create rounded and wavy panels, as well as elements of non-standard sizes.
Chipboard
facades from laminated chipboard belong to the economy class, due to which they are found in many kitchens of our fellow citizens. But besides low cost and richness of colors, they have no other advantages. But the disadvantages of chipboard abound:
- simple appearance;
- looseness of the internal structure;
- swelling in case of moisture ingress;
- fragility;
- the impossibility of performing curved and embossed surfaces.
MDF
IN Lately MDF facades are becoming more and more popular. They are aesthetic, can have various forms and rounding, covered with enamel or PVC film. This material is the most versatile and amenable to further restoration.
Painted and laminated MDF facades have:
- rich colors;
- glossy or matte surface;
- high strength;
- resistance to moisture and odor absorption;
- the possibility of making facades of non-standard sizes.
Painted facades will cost more than laminated MDF panels, but they are more durable. Pattern on PVC film can imitate natural wood or marble, but often the top layer peels off from the base, which dramatically worsens the appearance of kitchen furniture.
Both materials are afraid of direct sunlight, so the surface begins to fade over time.
Glass, stained-glass windows or mirrors, rattan or decorative panels are inserted into frame MDF facades. Such doors are inexpensive and, if desired, they can be easily updated even without painting. To do this, simply change the filling.
Plastic
At the core plastic panels there are MDF or chipboard plates, depending on which the cost of facades is determined. Often, plastic is framed with an aluminum profile. These doors:
- do not burn out;
- not afraid of temperature changes;
- durable;
- highly resistant to aggressive detergents;
- have a maximum service life;
- waterproof.
The negative characteristics of plastic include:
- the complexity of painting (requires special formulations);
- constant struggle with fingerprints remaining on the surface;
- the possible presence of depressed areas on products resulting from technological processes.
Glass
Facades made of transparent, colored, textured or frosted glass are installed on hanging kitchen cabinets. It can be placed in an MDF frame or aluminum profile, but often glass doors are installed without a frame. This gives them airiness and visually expands the room, but for the kitchen this option is not entirely acceptable.
Thanks to modern priming and coloring compositions, glass can be painted in any color, although the question arises - is it worth it?
Painting MDF facades
First you need to decide on the coloring composition. There are a lot of varieties of paint on the market, but not all of them can be used when working with kitchen facades.
The best option for painting is car enamel, which:
- moisture and heat resistant;
- durable;
- practically not afraid of damage, except for direct exposure to sharp objects;
- has many shades.
Painting the facade of the kitchen should be done in a color that is in harmony with the interior and suitable for the style decision. Here you can show your imagination and combine two or three shades.
Materials and fixtures
In addition to car enamel, for painting facades you will need:
- wood primer;
- sandpaper or hand grinder;
- building hair dryer;
- gloves;
- screwdriver or screwdriver;
- masking tape;
- velor roller and soft brush;
- glizal for additional decor (optional).
Preparatory work
For the convenience of work, the facades are removed from the hinges, after which they are freed from handles and inserts in the form of glass, stained-glass windows or mirrors.
The loops can not be removed, but in this case they are sealed with tape.
Laminated chipboard panels must be cleaned of PVC film, as it will prevent the application of the coloring composition. To do this, the front surface is heated with a building hair dryer and the unnecessary layer is gradually removed. Pull the film carefully so that there are no pieces left on the facade.
Next, the surface is thawed from dust, after which they proceed to the next step. It consists in grinding the surface. It is produced manually with fine sandpaper or used to facilitate the work of a grinder. With its help, the restored layer is also removed from painted MDF facades, although here you can use a special liquid for removing paint and varnish compositions.
At the end of the work, the panels are carefully wiped from dust and degreased, otherwise the new coating will turn out to be of poor quality.
At the last stage preparatory work pre-shaken wood primer is applied to the facades. Available on doors plastic elements, they should be coated with a primer intended for plastic. After a daily exposure, they proceed to the direct painting of the panels.
Coloring
Facades must be painted over in one direction with a roller or brush. If you intend to use several shades, then it will be necessary to protect the surface area with adhesive tape, the design of which is provided in a different tone, before applying the first color. After the final drying of the paint, the remaining area is painted using the same technology.
Painting kitchen facades from a spray can or spray gun will look neater, but it should be borne in mind that some of the paint will necessarily be sprayed on the sides. This will lead to overspending of the coloring composition.
To make the facades look more spectacular, glisal is additionally applied to them. The composition is diluted with water in the proportion indicated in the instructions, after which it is distributed with a clean brush over the painted facades.
A patterned textured pattern is obtained by glazing, using for this purpose a damp sponge, a brush with a hard bristle, and even polyethylene. They are applied to the surface with glisal, moving from one area to another, resulting in a pattern of broken lines, chaotic strokes or fancy bubbles. After the end of the “witchcraft”, the layer is allowed to dry, and after a week the surface is varnished.
Fittings are installed on the painted facades and the panels are hung on hinges.
Renewal of wood front panels
Painting wooden facades kitchen at home is reduced to a phased surface treatment. It follows:
- sand;
- apply a layer of primer;
- paint in a pre-selected color;
- varnish.
Alternative Ways to Update Kitchen Cabinets
Some experts argue that painting kitchen facades with your own hands can hardly turn out to be of high quality and beautiful. They recommend using self-adhesive film for furniture restoration, which is offered by manufacturers in a large assortment. It is released:
- plain or patterned;
- with imitation of natural wood, tile or stone;
- with drawings under Khokhloma or Gzhel;
- with a holographic or photographic image.
But it should be remembered that the film can solve the problem of renewal only for a while. At the first opportunity, it would be wiser to order or buy new facades.
If the interior of the kitchen is made in a vintage style, you can try to use the decoupage or craquelure technique to update the facades. If you wish, it will not be difficult to master them, and the effect of the finished doors will be amazing. As a protective layer, a transparent moisture-resistant varnish is applied to the surface, which makes it possible to wash the facades with a damp soft cloth or sponge without the use of abrasives.
Facades with glass inserts are decorated with a fabric that suits and suits the style, or stained glass film. In this case, the need to flaunt kitchen utensils and constantly keep order on the shelves. In addition, it will be possible to put more items inside the cabinet. The kitchen, at the same time, will look neat and well-groomed.
Home craftsmen know many more ways to update the appearance of facades, each of which can become exclusive.
In PVC film, one should not forget about alternative directions for the development of the enterprise, for example, such as painting MDF facades. The situation in the furniture market is constantly changing and the demands of consumers do not remain unchanged. Therefore, sooner or later, manufacturers of MDF furniture may face the question of how to paint the MDF facade, what equipment and materials will be required, and what technology for painting MDF facades is best suited for this particular enterprise.
Equipment for painting MDF facades
To paint MDF facades, you will need a room with an area of at least about 40 square meters. m with a separate chamber for painting, a place for grinding parts, for drying and for storing blanks and holding finished products. The room must be heated with a temperature of at least 20 degrees. The painting booth should be suitably equipped with an exhaust hood and preferably a rotating table, a drying room with racks, and a sanding area with powerful vacuum cleaners.
To apply coatings and primers, you will need a pneumatic spray gun with a nozzle from 1.5 to 2 mm and a compressor with a receiver of 80-100 liters to it. For grinding parts, you will need an eccentric vibration grinder, and for polishing, an angle grinder (grinder) with the appropriate nozzles.
Preparing MDF for painting
When choosing MDF for painting, you should pay Special attention the quality of the slab, primarily the rise of the pile during processing and the presence of embossing from the molds used in its manufacture.
Milling of MDF facades should be carried out at the highest possible speed of the tool in order to reduce the likelihood of raising the pile. Since the paint layer of the finished MDF facade remains very fragile, sharp corners should be avoided on the parts, which can be knocked down by careless handling. To do this, they are processed with an edge cutter with a radius 2-3 mm.
Grinding the details of the MDF facades must be done over the entire plane in order to remove the top protective layer of wax. For this, an eccentric sander with P 180-240 sandpaper is used. The complex curves of milling MDF facades are easiest to handle with an emery sponge.
If it is planned to paint MDF facades consisting of several components, the gaps formed in the joints must first be puttied with a pore-filling primer. After complete drying, its residues should be carefully removed with a rag or spatula, and then cleaned sandpaper R240-320.
Priming of MDF facades for painting
First of all, complex reliefs of milling or overlaid elements of the surface of the MDF facade are primed. Then the edge of the part is primed. Further, the entire plane of the MDF facade is covered with soil. The movement of the gun is carried out first along and then across the part. Each subsequent layer should overlap the previous one by 50%. All subsequent stages of applying primers, paints and varnishes are carried out in a similar way.
If it is required to paint the MDF furniture facade on both sides, then LKM is first applied to inside facade. After it dries, you can cover the front side.
As a rule, the primer of MDF facades for painting is carried out in 2 stages. At the first stage, with the help of an airbrush, a layer of insulating primer (80-100 g / sq. M) is applied, which should provide protection against absorption of subsequent layers of paintwork materials and raising the pile. After complete drying, grinding is performed with an emery sponge or P320-400 sandpaper. It is important that during active grinding do not wipe the soil layer to the MDF.
At the second stage, before painting the MDF facade, a layer of white polyurethane primer is applied 150-200 g/sq. m. The drying time of this layer can last from 8-10 to 24 hours, depending on the composition of the paintwork used. After drying, sanding with P320-400 sandpaper is performed. Milling bends and hard-to-reach areas of the MDF facade are ground with an abrasive material S-cotch-brite.
Painting MDF facades
Painting of MDF facades is carried out using an airbrush with a paint (enamel) consumption of 60 to 200 g/sq. m. Setting the nozzle diameter, air pressure, method of spraying, the number of layers and the interval of their application, as a rule, depends on the type of paint used. Therefore, before painting the MDF facade with one or another paint (enamel), you should carefully study the instructions for its use.
Complex ready-made compositions of paintwork materials with various special effects should be thoroughly mixed beforehand, since the decorative component of the paint can settle in a solid suspension at the bottom of the can. You also need to make sure that the decorative additives will pass freely through the nozzle of the gun.
During painting and varnishing, it is important to exclude all possibilities of dust, debris or insects getting on the surface of the MDF facades. If this still happened, you must have tweezers or a needle on hand.
Significant and highly visible smudges of paint (primer) are removed after drying by cutting with a clerical knife, and then carefully cleaned with sandpaper.
Patination of painted MDF facades
As a rule, patina is used on matte colors of MDF facades with complex elements surface and edge milling. The patinating composition is applied without prior priming over the paint layer using an airbrush, roller, brush, foam rubber, swab or other tool. After drying, the excess patina is removed by grinding with P320-400 abrasive materials or sandpaper. S-cotch-brite.
After a thorough cleaning of the MDF facade from dust, the paint layer and patina are covered with acrylic matte varnish (130-150 g / sq. M) and sent for drying. After 12-24 hours, the matte MDF facade can be packed and sent for storage.
Covering the facade of MDF after painting with varnish and polishing.
In order to give the surface of the MDF facade high resistance to mechanical damage, and freshness and depth to the paints, it should be covered with acrylic transparent glossy varnish. Lacquer is applied in two layers 120-150 g/sq. m, in two doses with an interval that ensures the drying of the first layer (according to the instructions).
Varnished MDF facades are sent to dry. After 1-2 days, you can start grinding, and after 5-7 days, polishing and finishing the product.
Sanding the dried layer of varnish using an eccentric sander begins with the processing of the facade with P1200-1500 sandpaper and ends with P3000-4000. At the same time, the surface of the facade must be periodically sprayed with water to prevent overheating and rolling of varnish particles. At the end of grinding, a uniform, uniform matte surface should be obtained.
For polishing MDF facades, an angle grinder with a hard (Novol white) foam wheel and an abrasive paste are used. Bril -852. After applying the paste to the surface of the facade, it is necessary to rub it over the area with a machine at low speed. Then, increasing the speed of the machine to 1500-2000, proceed directly to polishing. It is important to smoothly move the circle from one edge to the other, first horizontally and then vertically. The polishing wheel should be slightly moistened. In addition, for a greater effect, experts recommend applying a little furniture wax to the circle.
To finish the gloss, you will need a non-abrasive paste. Siashine FINISH and a soft (Black Novol) foam pad for polishing. The result should be a facade with a mirror surface.
Packaging and storage of painted MDF facades
The best packaging option for painted MDF facades will be polyethylene foam plus corrugated cardboard. On the one hand, they will well protect products from mechanical damage. On the other hand, some coatings continue to emit vapors of chemical compounds for some time, which condense on the surface of the facade when packaged in ordinary polyethylene and leave spots on the gloss. This combination of packaging material makes it possible to dissipate the vapors accompanying the drying process even after storage.
The effectiveness of painting MDF facades
It is quite difficult to determine the benefits from the manufacture of painted MDF facades if the manufacturer is not exclusively engaged in their production and sale. According to various sources, the average cost of 1 square. m glossy facade is 60-80 dollars. The main share of the costs falls on the wages of skilled workers, since the technology for painting MDF facades is based on manual labor(priming, grinding, painting, polishing), and the entire production cycle sometimes reaches 10 or more days.
In conclusion, I would like to say that the technology for painting MDF facades may differ at different enterprises, since a huge number of primers, paints, enamels, varnishes and other materials are presented on the modern market, which, in their own way, technological properties strikingly different from each other. For example, recently it has become fashionable to use when painting MDF facades automobile soils and enamels. But before you paint the facade of the kitchen, it is worth remembering that the car and the kitchen have completely different functions, and it’s not a fact that car enamel is so harmless that it can be “consumed” with food.
Therefore, before painting the MDF facade with an unknown paint, it is still worth exploring the paintwork market. Fortunately, there are plenty of companies producing primers, paints, enamels and varnishes for working specifically on MDF. Here is a list of some well-established brands:
· paintwork : Sayerlack, Votteler, Sivam, Tikkurila, Teknos, Sirca, PaliWood UM;
· Patina: Sayerlack , Borma, H esse Lignal
· Polishing pastes : 3M Perfect, Bril-852, Menzerna, Siashine FINISH.
Furniture facades, doors and other MDF products can be painted. But when working, inexperienced craftsmen face various difficulties, including the difficulty in obtaining a smooth surface without streaks, strong absorption of the material, and others. We will reveal the features of the choice of paints for MDF boards.
Can MDF be painted?
Facades, furniture boards, panels, door linings and other MDF products are in great demand due to their characteristics. This is the only material among analogues that can be processed by all possible ways: milling, shaped sawing, laminating, laminating, coloring. Let's take a closer look at the latter.
Painting MDF is a complex process and it begins with the choice of the main material - paintwork. If you want to be perfect flat surface with a semi-matte or glossy sheen, then a simple oil paint PF-115, even from an expensive foreign manufacturer, is not enough. An inexperienced master will face several problems at once:
It turns out that it is impossible to paint MDF? Our answer is that it is possible, but it is necessary to use a whole range of products, or, in the language of professionals, to use a special program of paints and varnishes, which include:
- Priming compositions of several types: barrier primers or insulators with a pore-filling effect, flexible and easily sanded multi-component compounds, basic pigmented compositions with a dry residue index of at least 50%.
- Paint with high hiding power, thixotropy, and after polymerization - wear resistance and durability.
- To create a smooth surface with a glossy/semi-gloss finish: lacquer or polishing kits (paste + nap disc for polishing).
What paints are suitable for MDF
The easiest way to paint laminated boards. This is the surface of finished facades of furniture and doors, wall and ceiling panels. The film acts as a primer and leveling layer. The following types of coatings are suitable:
- Alkyd, alkyd-urethane or oil-based enamels (Novbytkhim, Dyo, Tikkurilla)
Tikkurila alkyd enamels These are household formulations based on synthetic oils or polymer resins. They belong to the category of universal, that is, they can be used for indoor and outdoor work, they have good adhesion to most materials: metal, wood, glass, chipboard, MDF, OSB, etc.
After curing, a dense and durable film is formed, the advantages of which are high hiding power, resistance to mechanical and chemical influences, abrasives, and water.
Of the minuses, we note a sharp chemical smell that negatively affects human health, as well as a huge amount of low-quality products on store shelves and markets.
- Enamels based on polyurethane resins (Elacor, Ive, Teknos)
One- and two-component complex formulations with a high degree of wear resistance and incredible durability - more than 20 years. These are premium class products with a corresponding price (from 400 rubles/kg). Most often these paints are used by professional painters.
- Acrylic enamels (KrasKo, Tex, Belinka)
Compositions based on water-borne acrylate or latex copolymers are considered the safest and are recommended for use in residential and children's areas. It is easiest to paint facades, doors and panels with compositions produced in the form of aerosols. The resulting coating is weakly resistant to abrasives and mechanical damage, while perfectly protecting the surface from water and temperature extremes.
- Special enamels for furniture or nitro-paints of the NC series (Lacra, Sadolin, Alpina)
This category includes a series of highly specialized compositions designed to work on wood, chipboard and MDF. Characterized by high hiding power, excellent adhesion, short drying time and long term services. It is recommended only for indoor use, as the film has a low frost resistance coefficient.
MDF panels used for the production of furniture facades, door and wall cladding are more difficult to paint due to the high absorbency of the material and the need for sanding. In addition, when working with a brush, roller or spray gun, the pile rises strongly, due to which the surface is uneven, rough.
And if for priming you can choose highly specialized pore-filling elastic compounds that dry quickly and are easy to sand, then the following varieties are suitable as paints:
- Household acrylic formulations produced in the form of aerosols
They give a fairly smooth glossy surface, but at least 4 layers are required. On milled bevels of doors and sharp corners furniture, the paint will wear off quickly, so it is recommended to apply a wear-resistant alkyd or PU varnish over the coating.
- Professional two-component polyurethane enamels (Milesi, Ilva, Renner)
They consist of a base composition and a hardener. They can be tinted manually or by machine in more than 2000 shades. It is used mainly in production, less often - at home.
Since the components are toxic to humans, it is recommended to paint furniture and facades on outdoors with the use of personal protective equipment (glasses, mask, gloves).
- Specialized enamels for MDF (Palina Coating, Galamix)
These are complex compositions based on polyurethane or urethane-acrylic. Applied to the surface of furniture or doors with a sprayer or brush, the resulting coating has excellent resistance to mechanical, chemical and abrasive influences, practically does not fade over time.
- Automotive enamels (Duxone, Jet, Colomics)
These compositions are highly specialized and are designed to work on metal. Paints have undeniable advantages: excellent adhesion to any materials, thixotropy, abrasive, water and chemical resistance, fast polymerization. In addition, the resulting coating withstands temperatures from -40 °C to +100 °C. Auto enamels can be used to paint facades and other elements of furniture, doors. Finished Wall panels can be painted without prior preparation.
- Polymer powder paint for wood and MDF (Reka, Pulver)
The composition was originally produced for the industrial painting of metal and wood products, but in the last few years, small volume packages for domestic use have appeared on the market. In addition to the polymer compound, you will also need special equipment for its application.
Powder paint first melts at temperatures above 120 ° C, and then sticks to the base. For MDF facades, a series of low-temperature or ultraviolet curing compositions is available. Heating is carried out for several minutes, then the coating is applied to a horizontally located material and polymerized.
Powder paint allows you to get a wear-resistant surface with various decorative effects: patina, pebble, textured metallic, leather, silk and more. The technology was not widely used in everyday life due to the complexity of the application and the high cost of materials.
The purpose of painting is to get a beautiful surface that will not be afraid of water, scratches or stains. If you need to paint wall panels, an acrylic spray is best. Furniture facades kitchen set and doors must be resistant to temperature extremes and various chemically aggressive substances ( household chemicals, products), so polyurethane, automotive wear-resistant compounds or powder polymer paint. But the furniture for the living room, nursery or bedroom can be covered with furniture enamels that do not wear out over time and are easily updated if necessary.
