Timber houses, due to their environmental friendliness, are a popular option for private construction. But although they heat up quickly enough and have good thermal insulation properties, insulation log house is urgent need for most households.
Installation of insulation on the walls of a house from a bar Source nd-prime.by
Differences between old and new technologies
Wooden construction in Rus' is a centuries-old tradition. For centuries, houses were built exclusively from log houses, from massive round and semicircular logs, the thickness of which was enough for good thermal insulation. Like today, the wood shrank over time, and gaps appeared between the logs. But earlier there were other ideas about the beauty of the facade, so ordinary tree moss was used to seal the cracks. He landed in the cracks between the logs and over time reliably filled the entire space between them.
IN modern construction issues of economy come to the fore and force the use of timber, the thickness of which does not always meet the requirements of the developed standards. With insufficient cross-section, complete freezing occurs in winter, which means that the walls of the house are not able to retain heat. In addition, over time, the tree begins to dry out, which is why heat loss grows even more.
This is what a wall made of timber looks like after the wood has dried. Source bredmozga.ru
Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation in a timber house
Prudent owners are looking for ways to properly insulate a house from a bar in order to spend less money on heating in winter. This can be done in two main ways: from the inside and from the outside, and external insulation is preferable for a number of reasons.
Features of insulation from the inside
With internal insulation, the positive effect of saving heat is offset by the disadvantages:
- Part of the usable area is inevitably lost due to the installation of the frame under the insulation.
- The heat-insulating layer hides the "living" wooden walls and the rooms lose their unique charm.
- Due to the external winter cooling of an unprotected wooden wall, the dew point shifts to the internal insulation. Condensation occurs, mold appears, and it is difficult to control the condition of the wood.
Video description
What happens to the wall with improper insulation from the inside - in the video:
Wall insulation from the outside: advantages and disadvantages of the method
Most often, they resort to it, bearing in mind the obvious advantages compared to internal insulation:
- The usable area of the internal space is saved;
- Outside work do not change the daily routine of the family.
- The facade of the house is reliably protected from sudden changes in temperature, which prolongs the life of the building.
- Correct selection materials does not violate the microclimate of the rooms (the house "breathes").
- You can decorate the facade to your liking or improve appearance if the wood has darkened over time.
- If the technology is followed, the wood will be additionally protected from damage.
- Easy to control the work of the construction team.
The main disadvantage of external insulation is the need to conduct it in good weather- in cold and damp, it makes no sense to do this.
Three main methods of insulation
Any wall insulation involves attaching a layer of insulation to it and structures holding it. For this, several methods have been developed, and each of them has its own advantages and features of execution.
The principle of wall insulation is the creation of an additional protective "pie" Source lestorg32.ru
Hinged ventilated facade
By itself, this technology was developed as a decoration of the facade of the house, but since the installation procedure involves attaching a layer of mineral wool or similar material to the wall, this method can be considered as insulation.
Advantages of using ventilated facades:
- Long service life (up to 50 years), excellent heat and sound insulation.
- Ease of installation.
- Wide choose facing material different colors.
- The dew point moves outward.
Mounting technology:
- The lumber is pre-treated with compounds that prevent rotting and make the tree unattractive to insects.
- Outside, a crate is attached to the house, on which a sheet of hydro and wind protection is stuffed. In the space between the slats of the crate, air circulates freely, due to which condensate or moisture that has appeared in another way will be removed from the insulation.
- The crate is leveled with a plumb line.
- Next, slats are stuffed onto the crate, the distance between which should correspond to the width of the heat insulator. Accordingly, the height of the rails is selected - for middle lane Russia is recommended to use insulation with a thickness of at least 70 mm.
A feature of the ventilated facade is that a gap is left between the insulation and the cladding Source builderclub.com
- Insulation mats are laid between the slats, fixing with dowels.
- Then, bars with a thickness of at least 5 cm are additionally stuffed onto the slats, so that there is a gap between the insulation and the cladding.
- Facing (siding) is mounted.
Insulation under siding.
There are practically no fundamental differences from the previous technology - insulation is also used here and is also used outside decorative coating. But if the very name of the ventilated facade indicates the place of its use, then the whole house is covered with siding in any case.
The nuances of installation, taking into account the selected material:
- The distance between the slats is set equal to the width of the mat if foam or extruded polystyrene foam is selected.
- The distance between the slats is set 10–15 mm less than the width of the mat if mineral wool is used. This must be taken into account when calculating the amount of mineral wool.
- According to the technology, cotton wool slabs are mounted at a distance; polymer plates are placed in cells, joints are processed mounting foam.
- When using mineral wool, a waterproofing layer (diffuse membrane) is additionally mounted on top. It is not needed when using fiberglass or polystyrene.
Sheathing a log house with siding Source stroyfora.ru
Polyurethane foam spraying method
The principle of this technology is clear to anyone who has seen how they work with mounting foam. The difference here is that the amount of material needed to create a thermal insulation pad is much larger, so a spray gun using compressed air from a compressor is used to process polyurethane foam. Technology advantages:
- Easy to use and high speed of application of the heat-insulating mixture on large surfaces.
- Excellent adhesion (adhesion) with most building materials, long-term preservation of properties.
- Environmentally friendly, fire resistant and anti-rot of the treated surface.
Insulation spraying can be carried out on any prepared surface Source keeninsulation.com
Types of heaters
The choice of insulation for outdoor work is quite wide and each of them has distinctive features to consider when choosing:
Mineral wool
It is produced in three varieties - stone (basalt), glass and slag. All have similar properties: fire-resistant, non-combustible, have chemical and biological resistance. Another advantage of the material is vapor permeability, environmental friendliness and high sound insulation.
By cons - cotton wool attracts rodents and does not dry out completely when wet.
It all depends on the skills of the builders, but usually it is easier to insulate a house from the outside with mineral wool using mats than rolls - the latter are not always convenient to deploy on vertical walls.
Laying mineral wool slabs in the crate Source remontik.org
Styrene boards (polystyrene, polyurethane foam)
Styrofoam is the cheapest option, lightweight and porous, with low hygroscopicity and excellent thermal insulation. The main disadvantages are combustibility (releases toxins during combustion), fragility and instability when exposed to ultraviolet radiation.
Video description
In this video, we will dwell on the insulation of the house with foam plastic. How safe is styrofoam?:
Extruded polystyrene foam
It has a special porous structure, tolerates low temperatures well and is unsuitable for microorganisms. The material is durable, easy to install (plates), does not absorb water. Disadvantages: highly flammable and at the same time releases harmful toxins.
Styrofoam and polystyrene are outwardly similar Source lineyka.net
Environmentally sprayable styrenes (ecowool and polyurethane foam)
Such heaters are expensive due to the method of application; required for large surfaces special installation and work experience. For small areas of complex shape (crevices near pipes, windows, between plates), polyurethane heaters in cylinders are offered.
"Warm" plaster
Light Granule Blend complex composition(glass, cement and hydrophobic additives), which does not ignite, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, protects the facade well from moisture and is easily repaired.
Subtleties of wall insulation from timber
Insulation of a log house outside under the siding cannot be started whenever you want - before that, the following conditions must be met:
- Work on the installation of insulation can only be started after the complete shrinkage of the log house - often this period can be one and a half to two years.
- It is forbidden to carry out work if the facade has not been treated with an antiseptic. Ignoring this rule will lead to the appearance of fungus and rot.
- Before insulating a house from a bar from the outside, it is necessary to prepare the facade: close up not only wide cracks, but also small cracks. To do this, you can use putty, mounting foam or similar materials.
- Good thermal insulation log house requires careful selection of material and calculation of its quantity. It should be taken into account how thermal insulation material will be combined with the tree of the beam itself.
- To choose a suitable insulation, it is necessary to take into account the size of the building, the quality of the log house and the seams.
Some heaters are installed without crates. Source obustroen.ru
Tools and materials for building thermal insulation
To insulate a house without being distracted by the search for tools and materials, builders need to prepare the following:
- bubble or laser building level, you can still use a plumb line;
- tape measure, square or ruler made of metal;
- hammer, construction knife or hacksaw, screwdriver;
- facade dowels, adhesive tape, chalk, polyurethane foam, antiseptic;
- dry slats, insulation;
- vapor and waterproofing film;
- finishing material.
- wood preservative sprayer
Treatment of a wooden wall with an antiseptic Source mybesedka.ru
On our website you can find a list of companies, home insulation services, among the houses presented at the exhibition Low-rise Country.
The general course of the installation of thermal insulation
All steps for warming a house from a bar by any of the methods described are always schematically the same and are performed in the following sequence:
- for ventilation of the first layer of insulation, a crate of wooden planks is mounted on the wall;
- a frame is stuffed onto the crate for fixing the insulating material
- installation of a heater;
- installation of additional battens and frame (if double insulation is used);
- laying an additional layer of heat insulator;
- fastening of a diffusion membrane, which will provide hydro and wind protection.
- installation of facade finishes (lining, siding) with an air gap.
Of course, in the end, the insulation will hide the beauty of the natural material, but finishing the house with a block house can be a way out.
In general, the insulation of a house made of timber according to the rules will make it possible to save on heating in the future. Despite the seeming simplicity of the whole process, there is enough a large number of pitfalls that will definitely come out during installation. As a result, if there is no proper qualification, then it is better to order the work to professionals, because it is much more pleasant to control the construction site than to climb walls on your own.
Features of the Russian climate - strong wind, heat and frost, rain - one way or another, require home insulation. Consider how to insulate a house from a bar in accordance with the regulations and standards for heat saving.
In general, insulation should be started even during the manufacture of a log house, laying an interventional sealant after each row of logs. Wood is natural natural material which dries out and shrinks over time. And therefore, a year later, after the walls of the log house have dried and their shrinkage, repeated work on glazing and thermal insulation is carried out.
materials
As used only natural plant fibers, which are based on no artificial additives. They provide an environmentally friendly atmosphere, do not emit harmful substances And unpleasant odors well isolate sounds.
Seals from natural plant fibers caulk all the cracks, corners of the building.
Auxiliary materials
Experts do not recommend finishing the insulation of a log house with plaster finishing. The reason is that the result worsens natural ventilation walls on the outside, which makes the wood more prone to decay and strife. You need to prepare the following materials for work:
- hydrobarrier;
- bars for the frame with a width corresponding to the heat insulator;
- the actual insulation itself - mineral wool, polystyrene, glass wool in rolls or slabs;
- finishing - siding or lining.
It is possible to isolate the house from the inside or outside only after the completion of the natural shrinkage of the tree. It usually occurs within a year of operation.
Classification
From a bar can be performed the following materials: swamp moss, jute, made from the shoots of this plant and resistant to decay; flax fiber tow and mezhventsovy felt. Expanded polystyrene products are best used last, since with prolonged use of the building, the layer may be destroyed and fumes with harmful phenolic compounds may appear.
Mezhventsovy felt is produced in three types: jute interventional - 90% jute, 10% - flax, linen felt (flax wool) from highly refined flax fiber and flax jute interventional sealant - half from flax fiber, half from jute fiber.
About interior decoration
Insulation for interior decoration timber can be almost any. The most widely used are mineral wool materials produced by ROCKWOOL, URSA, ISOVER. It is believed that they have better sound insulation, low thermal conductivity, low hygroscopicity.
Properties of mineral wool
The fibers of the material are made from basalt, a particularly strong rock. The big pluses of mineral wool are the non-susceptibility to mold, fungi, insects, as well as the ability to withstand temperatures above 1000С.
In addition, mineral wool fibers have good vapor permeability, which allows vapors to evaporate rather than accumulate in the walls. An important quality of mineral wool is the absence of toxic substances in the composition.
The thickness of the plates of the applied insulation depends on the width of the walls of the house itself. For example, for a beam of 150 mm, it will be correct to use only 5 cm of mineral wool. Thinner plates are mounted in two continuous layers. The joints must be covered to enhance the heat-saving effect.
Types of mineral wool
Mineral wool URSA is a mixture of dolomite (mineral) with quartz sand. Its main advantages are high elasticity and flexibility (facilitate installation) and excellent thermal insulation characteristics (the thermal conductivity coefficient of such a heater is 0.032 W / mK).
For the walls of ventilated facades, Ursa FACADE material is used in the form of semi-rigid fiberglass boards, covered with high-density black fiberglass. Additionally, the plates are treated with water-repellent agents. Thanks to all these qualities, the need to install windproof films disappears.
ROCKWOOL mineral wool is made from basalt rocks impregnated with a hydrophobic mixture - a chaotic arrangement of mineral fibers provides high strength. Binders such material contains minimal amount. ROCKWOOL is not subject to deformation during operation. It is produced in various forms - rolls, plates, mats of various thicknesses and areas, which also differ in the degree of rigidity.
ISOVER mineral wool is made on the basis of glass fiber and has excellent heat retention, shape stability and durability. The upper surface of such plates is covered with fiberglass, therefore they do not require the use of diffuse membranes. When carrying out two-layer insulation, such material acts as the top layer.
Preparation for use
The thickness of the insulation used depends on what wood and what technology the house is built from:
- for chopped logs, at least 15 mm of insulator is laid;
- for glued laminated timber, a layer of 5 to 10 mm is sufficient.
All work on sealing the walls must be carried out simultaneously along the entire crown in order to avoid warping the log house. All cracks must be sealed both inside and out. Before carrying out work, the log house is carefully inspected, all cracks are identified and caulked. Particular attention is paid to the processing of the corners of the log house. Just framing is clearly not enough.
Insulation from the inside
After sealing the walls, work is carried out on internal thermal insulation dwellings. They consist in laying a layer between the walls and the material for interior decoration. As the latter, gypsum fiber or drywall is often used. For internal insulation, insulation with a vapor barrier is used to prevent fumes from soaking it.
Warming a house from a bar from the inside has the following risks:
- possible cracking of the tree and the formation of condensate;
- log rotting;
- reduction of the usable area of the premises and deterioration of the interior.
Outside insulation
The best option for insulation wooden house there will be a creation of a ventilated facade system with an air gap - ascending flows themselves will remove unnecessary moisture. Such a system has high heat-shielding qualities and ensures the dryness of the walls.
It is necessary to pay attention to the sealing of windows and doors, floors, device floors and attic. Floor insulation is carried out by laying a layer of waterproofing, a heat insulator, on top of which a layer of vapor barrier is placed.
Beginning of work
To begin with, the entire surface of the walls is well treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. After processing, gaps and cracks are eliminated at all joints and between the timber. The gaps are eliminated with mounting foam or seals, which are used when laying the log house. More often it is lnovatin, jute fiber or ribbon tow.
After sealing all the gaps, vertical carrier rails are stuffed onto the walls. The distance between them is left slightly smaller than the width of the future insulation material. This is done for an easier and tighter entry into the structure.
Laying
Sealant boards are laid between the carrier rails, starting from the underside of the wall. The plates are fixed with the help of anchor fasteners, while the joints are located close to each other and to the edges of the crate.
The second frame row of bars is attached in a horizontal direction. In the gaps between them are installed mineral wool boards. In this case, the upper plates must overlap the joints of the underlying layer. The second layer of heat insulator is also reinforced with anchors. In addition, the densely elastic structure of fiber boards itself contributes quite secure installation material between the battens.
A diffusion membrane is fixed on the surface of the insulation, permeable with inside for steam and air, but absolutely closed from the outside for wind and external moisture. This layer will perfectly protect the insulator and the tree under it from adverse atmospheric phenomena.
Thermal insulation in regions with high humidity will be properly supplemented with a vapor barrier film. In this case, the vapor barrier is installed directly on the surface. wooden beams walls.
Ventilation layer and finish
Frame for exterior finish must be fixed so that between the finishing layer and the heat insulator there is an air gap for ventilation of water vapor. After all, external moisture will inevitably condense on the surface of the insulation, which should be able to evaporate.
The frame is mounted external facade finishing. It can be lining, siding or panels made of polymers. You can finish the building with a block house - a polymer that imitates wood with its texture and pattern. It is important to prevent heat loss through other areas - the roof, floor, foundation, windows, doors.
Attic, doors and windows
The technology of warming the attic of a wooden house is as follows:
- a vapor barrier layer is laid on the hemmed ceiling of the attic;
- a heater is laid on top - mineral wool or polystyrene foam;
- a layer of waterproofing is laid on the insulator and a crate of boards is mounted.
An ideal option for mounting doors and windows is the use of two-chamber metal-plastic or wooden double-glazed windows And double doors, as well as the mandatory presence of an entrance vestibule. Finally, before choosing a method of thermal insulation of a log house, it will be right to make sure that such a procedure is necessary in principle.
It is possible to insulate the walls of a house from a bar both from the outside and from the inside. Internal insulation must be made extremely carefully and observe all the nuances of the technological process.
Main disadvantage warming the house from the inside is an excess of moisture, which forms condensate, which is bad for the microclimate in the house.
But if the insulation internal walls a necessary measure, then the consequences of this type of insulation can be found in the article "".
Most often, insulation is carried out outside. When installing insulation on wooden walls Special attention ventilation must be provided. Wooden walls must "breathe". Therefore, if they have a smooth surface, then ventilation is necessary in this case. When insulating a house from round logs, this procedure is not mandatory.
For wooden walls it is desirable to select breathable insulation, for the installation of which the "ventilated facade" method is often used.
It builds on building on the wall frame structure, inside which a heater is placed. Between it and the cladding panels remains layer of air, which draws steam from the heater that enters it from the room.
The facing layer with this method of insulation is often vinyl or acrylic siding. This is a modern building material for wall decoration. It is easy to install, affordable and looks aesthetically pleasing. Siding easily tolerates the effects of precipitation, washes well and retains its original appearance for many years.
Warming with mineral wool
Mineral wool is a fibrous heat-insulating material with high sound-proofing and fireproof characteristics. does not burn, but only melts under the influence high temperatures without releasing harmful substances into the atmosphere.
Important: mineral wool is a vapor-permeable "breathable" insulation and is most often used to insulate wooden houses.
Mineral wool is an environmentally friendly material, but when installing it, you must definitely use overalls for protection from inhaling its dust. Of the minuses, one can also single out the high moisture absorption of mineral wool, and the settlement of rodents in it.
Stages of insulation of external walls with mineral wool:
- Cleaning the wall from the old coating, dirt and mold.
- Treatment with antiseptic compounds and priming.
- Dismantling from the wall of gutters, lighting fixtures and other interfering elements.
- Repair damage to the wall with tow or sealant.
- Installation of the framing frame. The frame for mineral wool slabs is made of bars with a section of 45x45 mm, the bars are mounted in increments of 60 cm.
- Laying vapor barrier film. The film protects the mineral wool from the penetration of moisture into it, since after it enters the insulation begins to lose its thermal insulation properties.
Important: it is allowed to mount insulation on even walls of a house from a bar without laying a membrane film.
- Laying of mineral wool slabs. It is necessary to lay the plates without gaps, fill the voids with scraps of mineral wool.
- Attaching a waterproofing film to the crate on a stapler. This film must also be vapor-permeable so that moisture is removed from the insulation to the outside. Places for fastening the film with dowels to ensure better waterproofing It is recommended to glue with metallic tape.
- Installation of crates for siding from a bar.
- Panel fastening.
Layers of insulation for the walls of the house with mineral wool:
- A layer of primer and antiseptic.
- Crate.
- Vapor barrier film.
- Minvat (between the bars of the crate).
- Windproof waterproofing film.
- Sheathing for siding.
- Siding panels.
Insulation with expanded polystyrene
Expanded polystyrene (EPS) is a vapor-tight material, which consists of 98% air contained in thin shells of polystyrene.
Holds heat well and is one of the the most sought after heaters, along with mineral wool. This insulation almost does not absorb moisture and has low coefficients of vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. It is inexpensive and easy to install.
Minuses: The material is flammable and emits harmful substances when burned.
When insulating a house from a PPS beam, the most commonly used method is " wet facade", but you can also use the "ventilated facade" method with cladding for siding. Wet facade method is based on the use of compounds and solutions diluted with water for insulation - adhesive compositions and plasters.
PPS insulation technology includes several stages. At the first stage, the walls are cleaned of dirt and old coatings, then they are treated with a primer layer. After it dries, you can proceed with the installation of plates.
For this use special glue or dilute the dry mix. Glue is applied to the PPS sheets and mounted to the wall. After the glue dries, the sheets are additionally fixed with plastic dowels with an umbrella cap.
Insulation layers for outdoor work:
- Vapor barrier film.
- adhesive layer.
- Insulation layer (PPS).
- Reinforcing mesh.
- Layer of plaster.
- Decorative finish.
Insulation with windproof plates Izoplat
Isoplat- This is a Scandinavian windproof plate. Insulation is an environmentally friendly natural material.
It is made from wood fibers. conifers without adding adhesives and other chemical binders. It is produced in the form of sheets 270 by 120 cm with a thickness of 0.8 to 2.5 cm.
The layered structure provides the material with durability and strength. Plates Isoplat can "breathe", drawing in excess moisture from the room and giving it back when the air dries from the operation of heating devices. Therefore, when insulating with Isoplat, there is no need for vapor and waterproofing of walls.
Distinctive feature of the material- one side of the sheet has a smooth surface designed for fine finishing.
Lack of material is the lack of moisture protection of Isoplat plates from the ends. Therefore, after attaching several plates to the wall, their joints must be immediately sealed with mounting foam. Excess foam must be cut off the next day.
Isoplat sheets for insulation of external walls can be mounted either on the frame (with rounded logs of the house), or glued directly to flat surface walls. In 1 case there is no special need for leveling the walls.
Frame for slabs it is made of wooden beams with a section of 45x45 mm in increments of 60 cm. Installation of the beams must be controlled building level so that all frame elements are in the same plane. This will make it easier later finishing walls.
With frameless technology sheets of Isoplat are attached to the base with nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws, as when hammering nails, the material can be damaged.
After sheathing the walls with insulation, you can start finishing. First, you will need to putty the joints between the plates with reinforcing tape.
You need them first work out sandpaper to a depth of 0.2-0.3 cm and a width of half a centimeter. Next, putty is applied to the treated joints, a reinforcing tape is placed on it in the longitudinal direction, and smoothed with a spatula. In conclusion, you need to remove all excess mixture.
A day later, after the putty has dried at the joints, its continuous layer can be applied to the slabs. After complete drying, the coating needs to be sanded, remove from it construction dust and primed water-based paint. It will become a white base for light painting, and dark color insulation through it will not be visible.
In addition to painting on Isoplata plates, you can mount the system "ventilated facade" or apply decorative plaster to the surface of the plates.
Izoplatom insulation layers for house walls:
- Wooden crate (with round logs).
- Insulation (placed on the bars of the crate or directly on the walls).
- Putty layer.
- Primer.
- Finishing coating (paint layer or crate and siding panels).
Vapor barriers for timber walls
When warming the outer walls of the house from a bar of mineral wool or PPS under a layer of insulation must be fixed with a vapor-permeable film. When insulating with Isoplat, the film does not need to be laid.
The main function of the vapor barrier- protect the insulation and do not let steam into it. After all, moisture that has entered the insulation prevents it from performing its heat-saving functions, which can lead to the destruction of wooden structures.
Attach vapor barrier film it is possible both in the vertical direction and in the horizontal direction, from the inside of the thermal insulation structure (between the wall and the insulation layer).
The film is attached to galvanized nails either using construction stapler . It is positioned in such a way that the vapor-permeable side is adjacent to the wall of the building, and the smooth side is adjacent to the insulation layer.
Important: the seams of the vapor barrier membrane must be absolutely tight, the film must be solid, otherwise water vapor will move, and moisture will accumulate inside the structure of the house from the timber.
Materials for warming a log house from the outside
To insulate the external walls of a log house, you will need the following: tools:
- hammer;
- level;
- screwdriver;
- construction stapler;
- foam gun;
- paint knife.
materials necessary for work:
- PPS sheets;
- mineral wool;
- Isoplat plates;
- wooden bars;
- vapor barrier film;
- waterproofing film;
- reinforcing mesh;
- primer;
- mounting foam;
- glue;
- nails;
- self-tapping screws;
- staples for a construction stapler.
In conclusion, we can say that the insulation of the walls of a timber house is important process to save heat in the house, since up to 30% of it leaves through non-insulated walls. In the presence of necessary tools and materials, insulation of a dwelling from a bar can be carried out independently.
But need to remember that maximum heat savings can be achieved only with complex insulation of a wooden house - its roof, walls, ceiling and floor.
See the video for a master class on warming a log house outside with mineral wool for siding:
The climate in Russia is extremely harsh, the winters are cold, so the question of how to properly insulate a house from a bar from the outside is relevant. This work must be done very carefully, especially from the outside of the house, only then will we get the conditions for year-round living.
Features of housing construction in Rus'
Naturally, the question arises, but how did you manage without warming the house from the outside before? After all, wooden houses were built in Russia since ancient times, they stood for centuries.
It must be understood that an old and reliable log house and a modern house made of timber are somewhat different concepts. Until the 20th century, only chopped wood was used for buildings. Preference in carpentry was given to an ax, although the saw was known in Rus' from ancient times.
But it was believed that sawn wood absorbs moisture more strongly, swells and rots. And the wood in the logs, which are processed with an ax, seems to be clogged under its blows and does not absorb moisture.
Houses were built without nails, there were several ways to cut logs. The cups were cut down strictly according to the shape of the logs that fit into them, a longitudinal groove was made in the crowns for better density log house. The log joints were carefully caulked.
All this gave the effect of monolithic. The thickness of the logs in the log house was sufficient to maintain heat.
Another feature was the erection of a frame under the very roof, the design of which in this case was called male. This type of structure was especially widespread in the north of Rus'. The logs were lifted up to the very roof, they built a triangle of the pediment, on which they fastened the slabs for the board.
So, we see the following features that prevented traditional wooden houses in Rus' from getting cold:
- wall thickness sufficient to retain heat;
- solidity of the walls, achieved by the density of planting logs and the caulking of cracks;
- low level of hygroscopicity of wood due to its processing with an ax.
Let's consider these features in application to modern houses from a bar.
Modern log house
For a normal microclimate level in the house, when winter frosts are fierce, it is necessary to build a house from a bar with a thickness of 40 cm. After all, the timber simply by itself will freeze through and through in severe frosts.
In modern housing construction, a beam with a cross section of 150 mm is used, so such a house has to be insulated from the outside or from the inside. The most appropriate to achieve the desired effect is external.
The level of hygroscopicity is reduced by treating the timber with special impregnations. By using various methods external insulation, it will be possible to achieve the effect of solidity and sufficient wall thickness, the main thing is to correctly find the answer to the question of how best to insulate a house from a bar from the outside.
Benefits of outdoor insulation
The advantages of the method of warming the house from the outside are as follows:
- the internal space is not affected, it is possible to carry out work without disturbing the normal rhythm of the life of the owners;
- the ability to perform insulation work with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists;
- there is an opportunity original solution facade of the house;
- heat loss is reduced;
- external walls will be protected from the adverse effects of the external environment.
Heaters
Basalt wool insulation - Light Butts.
The modern market is rich in materials that are used for wall insulation:
- basalt insulation;
- glass wool;
- Styrofoam;
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- foamed polyethylene;
- insulation made of polyester fibers;
- sprayed polyurethane foam.
When deciding how to insulate a house from a bar from the outside, it is necessary to take into account many factors, take them into account and draw the right conclusions. In this matter important role play the price, quality and thickness of the insulation.
To accept correct solution, it is necessary to consider all the comparative mechanical and thermal characteristics of heaters, given that the characteristics of materials produced by different manufacturers may differ.
What features should be paid attention to when deciding how to insulate log house outside:
- thermal conductivity index;
- compressive strength index;
- an indicator of elasticity, elasticity (this is important for understanding the ability of the material not to break when bent and to restore its original shape);
- study the installation conditions (manufacturer's instructions on how to install this insulation are attached to each material).
Advice. When choosing the thickness of the insulation, you can face the choice that a mineral wool insulation with a thickness of 50 mm will be insufficient for walls of 150 mm according to the requirements of SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings", and with a heater with a thickness of 100 mm it will significantly exceed them.
In this case, you can use a combination of different heaters. For example, use foamed polyethylene, covering the facade with it right along the vapor barrier, and sew bars on it, between which to strengthen the mineral wool insulation.
The procedure for carrying out thermal insulation work
Consider how to properly insulate a timber house from the outside, what stages of work must be completed and in what sequence.
In order to prevent air vapor passing through the thickness of the timber from turning into water in the thickness of the insulation, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier. Best Option it would be to hold it from the inside of the walls, made of foil material reflecting heat into the room.
You need to do it in the following order:
- we fill the vertical crate on the outer walls of edged board thickness 40-50 mm;
- we fasten the vapor barrier membrane on the boards with a continuous overlap;
- we fill the second layer of the crate on the same boards with a step suitable for the selected insulation;
- we lay the insulation between the bars;
- we lay a film or membrane for wind protection;
- we fix the wind protection with counter rails;
- we mount the outer cladding on the rails.
Important. The vapor barrier of the wall must have air vents arranged from below and from above. This is necessary to circulate air and balance the temperature in the area of the gap and the temperature in the interior.
Summary
Insulation of a wooden house from a bar - milestone in the process of reducing energy costs during operation and ensuring high level comfort of living (read also the article). In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.
How warm can a log house be? The tree is rightly considered warm material giving good protection by cold. In fact, wood is about five times warmer than brick, foam concrete - 2-3 times. But what happens in practice and how to make the house really warm?
Heat engineering issues
In order for the house to be warm, it is necessary that its walls and other enclosing structures have a certain resistance to heat transfer. In accordance with SNiP 23-02-2003, the resistance to heat transfer of the external walls of residential premises is determined depending on the location.
For example, in the Moscow region, according to new standards, this figure should not be less than 3.13 K m 2 /W. A 150 mm thick wall made of pine timber has a thermal resistance of about 1.25. With a thickness of 200 mm - approximately 1.6 K m 2 / W. In any case, the heat-shielding qualities of a timber wall do not reach modern requirements, although they are quite within the standards in force for buildings built before 2000.
From this we can conclude that in order for a house made of logs to meet modern ideas about minimum energy efficiency, it is necessary to insulate it, and for this there are various materials.
How to insulate a house from a bar?
Before starting work on the insulation of walls from a bar, you need to understand what happens in the thickness of the wall, how it works for heat saving.
In addition to the temperature difference on the inner and outer surfaces of the wall, one must not forget about the difference in humidity. Inside the air humidity is always higher than outside. Steam penetrates into the pores of the wood and moves in the direction of lower partial pressure - to the outer surface.
Most effective method insulation - external thermal insulation. With this method, the wall always remains warm and is not affected by frost destruction. But it is very important that the insulation is sufficiently permeable to steam. High wall humidity can quickly lead to wooden house into disrepair, and inside to create a very unpleasant, pathogenic microclimate.
Among modern heat-insulating materials, mineral wool is the best vapor-permeable material. For comparison, we can bring the vapor permeability of wood and various heaters.
- Pine across the fibers - 0.06 mg / (m h Pa).
- Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) - 0.05 mg / (m h Pa).
- EPPS - 0.013 mg / (m h Pa).
- Mineral wool - 0.5 mg / (m h Pa).
From the data presented, it is clear that best material mineral wool is used to insulate a house from a bar on the outside. The advantage of vapor permeability is so great that it outweighs not the lowest cost of mineral wool.
The best conditions for moisture removal are created by a ventilated facade, in which between the insulation and outer lining there is an air gap with a thickness of 20 - 50 mm. It should have air inlet at the bottom and outlet at the top. In this case, a constant air flow is created in the gap, which prevents moisture from accumulating.
To prevent transverse diffusion of air into the insulation, it is closed with a windproof membrane, which does not prevent steam from escaping, but increases the efficiency of thermal insulation. For outer skin can be used vinyl siding, blockhouse or other suitable material.
Warming step by step
How to insulate a house from a bar: cover a new one log house thermal insulation is possible only after its complete shrinkage. In any case, the insulation of walls from a bar must begin with surface preparation. It is necessary to remove the moss, clean the areas damaged by rot or mold, treat the walls with an antiseptic and caulk the cracks.
The next step is the installation of the crate. It can be made from wooden bars of a suitable section, or from metal wall profiles for drywall. Profiles are installed vertically, every 40 - 50 cm.
First you need to fix the base profile, limiting hinged facade from below. Then brackets are attached to the wall with a step along the profiles of the crate of no more than 80 cm.
After that, thermal insulation slabs are laid on the wall, starting from the base. The plates of the brackets pass through the plates through the slots made in them. Then, in the same way, a windproof membrane is laid on the slabs. On top of the membrane, you need to install umbrella fasteners that will fix the insulation. It is important that the length of the brackets allows you to install the crate with the necessary clearance between the insulation and the cladding.
A crate is mounted on the insulated wall. The profiles are placed on the base profile, set vertically and fastened to the brackets with self-tapping screws or detachable rivets. At the same time, not only the vertical of each profile is controlled, but also their alignment in a common plane. Everywhere you need to use only galvanized fasteners.
After installing the crate, the cladding is mounted. It is important that the ventilation gap remains open from below and above, and also that stagnant zones under the window sills do not form in it. In addition, it is very important that all kinds of folds or irregularities of the insulation do not block the vertical air flow.
Calculation of the thickness of the insulation
When calculating the thickness of the insulation, it is necessary to take into account the thermal resistance of the wall from the timber in order to bring the total resistance of the wall to the required value. It is better to take the thickness with a margin in order to compensate for the influence of cold bridges and the possible deterioration of thermal insulation qualities at high humidity.
Mineral wool Hotrock
So how to insulate a log house from the outside. Mineral wool Hotrock is European-class basalt thermal insulation. The range includes boards of different densities, designed to insulate the most different designs, including ventilated facades. Depending on the features of a particular object, you can choose plates with a density of 35 to 90 kg / m 3. The thermal conductivity of all slabs in the dry state fluctuates around 0.035 - 0.038 W / m K. A 50 mm thick slab is equivalent in thermal resistance to a 150 mm thick pine beam.
Basalt wool is completely non-combustible, does not retain moisture, is not damaged by rodents and insects, fungi and mold do not develop in it. By the sum of its qualities, it is recognized as the best material for wall insulation.
