Make wooden bath doors with your own hands. How to make bath doors: making the door leaf and frame, insulation and installation with your own hands. Types of bath doors: pros and cons

03.09.2016 24252

To go to a bathhouse with your own hands, you need to purchase materials, prepare tools, and remember carpentry skills. Usually it has at least two doors - the entrance and the steam room - the main room for which the bathhouse is being built. Here are created temperature conditions, useful for people, but extreme for materials, so these features are taken into account when making doors.

What to make it from? Choosing material

The entrance structures of the dressing room or washing room can be made of any material,DIY steam room doorshould be made of wood. Natural material will be able to withstand all temperature changes without emitting harmful substances(like plastic) without heating up to an unbearable degree (like iron). Deciduous woods (oak, aspen, alder, linden) are recommended by craftsmen for making bath items and accessories - they contain less resins that evaporate when heated, which you have to breathe. Coniferous wood (pine, spruce, cedar) is also used, but you will have to put up with a pungent odor and resinous “tears” on the surface. Despite the rigidity and difficulty of processing, many sauna log houses are made from coniferous species.

Aspen, alder - soft materials with a beautiful texture. The peculiarity of linden is the release of phytoncides when heated, which have healing properties. Oak has all the excellent qualities quality wood, including high cost. The door to the steam room can be made from any type of wood:

• oak is a hard, valuable wood, but prone to cracking;
• larch – has a natural antiseptic, is not susceptible to rotting and attacks by bugs;
• linden - releases phytoncides, smells pleasant, but darkens during use and rots quite quickly;
• aspen - the most cheap material, costs 40% less than linden, does not crack when drying;
• pine is a durable species that emits odorous resins;
• spruce is less resinous, but absorbs a lot of moisture and requires drying. Retains its original color for a long time.

From pine and aspen, considering these species suitable for such purposes. Now exotic types of wood have appeared - abashi (African oak), Canadian cedar.

Advice. Whatever type of wood the door for the steam room is made from, it is important to ensure that there are no knots in the door leaf. Exposure to high temperatures, water and steam will cause them to fall out and create holes.

Stocking up on tools and materials

To make a bathhouse door with your own hands, use a standard carpentry set of tools:

• saw (jigsaw, hacksaw);
• milling cutter;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• plane;
• screwdriver, screwdriver, drill;
• self-tapping screws;
• wooden dowels.

The bath will require the following materials:

• timber 50*50 mm – for the pigtail;
• timber of the selected type of wood 60*80 mm of sufficient footage - for making a box;
• ordinary board 50*30 mm - for the door leaf, the timber for tying the door leaf is 5 mm thicker than that of the board;
• loops.

The amount and nature of the material depend on the design of the door. Usually these are solid single-leaf doors, one or two frames, standard size of which:

• width – 0.7–0.8 m;
• height – 1.7 m;
• threshold height – 0.15–0.3 m.

Fittings and fasteners are selected from of stainless steel, the handle is made of wood, since the metal one gets very hot, and the plastic one emits harmful fumes when heated. Locking elements should open without problems from the inside, without jamming - for example, latches.

Important. The threshold to the bathhouse (and steam room) is provided with a height of at least 15 cm in order to avoid chilling - heat escaping into the crack under the door.

Let's start the process

The door structure consists of two parts - the frame and the leaf. First you have to do it yourself door frame, then the canvas and connect them using loops. The door leaf is a one- or two-layer connection of boards, framed with or without strapping. A frame is a frame made up of bars and placed in the door opening. The entire process of manufacturing and installing a door involves four stages:

1. preparing the opening, creating a frame;
2. making a box;
3. door leaf (with or without frame);
4. installation of the structure.

Stage 1. Preparing the opening. Adjust the dimensions of the opening according to the width and height of the door. In the middle of the logs of the log house, grooves of 50*50 mm are selected vertically on both sides - under the bars there are frames with the same dimensions, to which the box is then attached.

Stage 2. Creating a box. You can make a box from 50 mm thick bars - two vertical posts and two horizontal crossbars. Tenons are cut out at the ends of the crossbars, and grooves are made in the racks - butt joints are not used, since they are not strong enough. The assembled box is installed in the opening, fixed to the frame with wooden wedges, the verticality of the structure is controlled by a level. From the outside of the frame around the perimeter, quarters are selected - a seat for the door leaf. For hinges, choose a gap of 2–3 mm.

Stage 3. Manufacturing of the door leaf. The appearance of a bathhouse door largely depends on the door leaf. It could be:

• from boards;
• from boards with strapping;
• paneled.

The steam room can be as simple as possible - made from boards without a frame, “antique”:

1. The boards are marked and measured according to size (preferably floorboards), and the surface is smoothed with a plane.
2. in any of three ways: smooth ends with or without glue, tongue-and-groove, or quarters selected along the edge, one on top of the other. You can select grooves, tenons or quarter edges yourself using a router, or purchase ready-made tongue and groove boards.
3. The connection is secured with transverse and diagonal bars (jibs) from the outside. The obvious way is to screw the crossbars with self-tapping screws. Craftsmen make a recess on the surface for transverse and diagonal bars, using a router or a hacksaw with a chisel. Experienced carpenters make this recess special type"dovetail".
4. Screw the hinges (gate samples are appropriate in this design), hang them, adjust them so that the sash fits tightly and there are no distortions.

The door to the steam room with your own hands can be equipped with a frame - a beam that is attached along the perimeter of the door. Previously, grooves for the canvas are selected in the binding. Additionally, the groove connection is strengthened with self-tapping screws. The dimensions of the door leaf of this model are reduced by the size of the strapping beam, taking into account that the entire door should fit tightly into the frame without large gaps. The step-by-step procedure is as follows:

1. The vertical bars of the strapping frame are marked and cut along the length of the box.
2. Grooves are made from them inside– this will include the canvas and the spikes of the horizontal upper and lower strapping bars.
3. The finished canvas is adjusted to size - its length, added to the width of the upper and lower strapping bars, should be equal to the length of the vertical boards.
4. Tenons are made in the transverse bars at the ends with the calculation of their entry into the grooves of the vertical parts.
5. The entire structure is assembled, the corners are aligned (strictly 90 ̊). The strapping connections are secured with wooden dowels or self-tapping screws.

Experienced craftsmen can make a bathhouse door with their own hands of a complex design - paneled, with numerous panel inserts in a frame consisting of several transverse and longitudinal boards. The connection principles are the same - “tenon and groove”, the inserts fit into the grooves, without the use of glue or self-tapping screws. Such a door is both strong and provides mobility of elements, which allows you to avoid cracking of the wood during expansion and contraction of the structure.

Stage 3. Installation. After the frame and door leaf are ready, all that remains is to install the door in the bathhouse, observing several conditions:

• The door frame is mounted to the frame or into a specially made groove of the opening, which should be 1–1.5 cm wider - firstly, for free manipulation to align the structure, and secondly, taking into account further shrinkage and movement of the beam and door.
• necessary, following the rules fire safety: The door must open outwards. To do this, a quarter sample for the canvas is made from the outside.
• When hanging the canvas, in order to avoid distortions, it is recommended to use three pairs of loops: top, bottom and middle. The distance from the corner point of the sash to the hinges is 20–25 cm.

Entrance doors for a metal bath: installation features

To install a door in a bathhouse, it is not necessary to make the entire entrance structure with your own hands. It is enough to limit your search suitable option on the market and install it yourself. Choose plastic or metal.

The owner decides whether it is advisable to install an iron door in the bathhouse: this model protects the room more reliably than others, but it is heavier and rusts when exposed to moisture. Therefore, a metal door to a bathhouse with anti-corrosion powder coating is preferable, although its price is higher.

In addition, the rigid metal structure does not shrink like the surrounding frame. When moving, the frame can hang on the door, the distortion of which by one millimeter leads to its blocking. The installation of an iron door in a bathhouse is carried out taking into account this fact - they must make a casing:

1. Grooves are made in the opening on both sides, which are equipped with a special wooden frame.
2. The casing bars are rigidly attached only to the lower logs, serving as a kind of guide for the moving upper logs.
3. A wooden box is attached to the pigtail, and to it, in turn, is mounted Iron door to the bathhouse.
4. A 2–4 cm seam is left on top of the box for possible shrinkage of the log house. The seam is foamed, insulated, and hidden under the trim.

Considering the large weight of the door, the bars for the frame and frame should be thick enough.

An installation built from brick or foam blocks is no different from similar work in residential premises. It is recommended to insulate the metal structure by insulating the fittings - in winter, the handle and lock may freeze over.

Making and installing a bathhouse door with your own hands is not an easy, but feasible type of work that brings satisfaction, allows you to save money wisely and acquire useful carpentry skills.

A luxurious bathhouse, made with your own hands from the floorboard to the door handle - isn’t this a source of pride? After all, how interesting it is to understand the little things, learn about new technologies and bring every detail to perfection! There are, of course, stages in the work that are quite complex - such as manufacturing, installing doors to the bathhouse and insulating it. Just a couple of mistakes and an unpleasant draft will become omnipresent. Or even worse - frost forms on the door in a matter of seconds after kindling...

All of the above can be easily avoided if you know how to make a door to a bathhouse - cut out the door frame, insulate it, and install it correctly. And, the most important thing is compliance with the basic requirements:

• High-quality thermal insulation.
• Minimal heat leakage when opening the door.
• The ability to quickly and easily open the door in case of fire.

Many companies today sell special Entrance door to the bathhouse - but for an exorbitantly high price. But it can be done quickly, easily and at minimal cost.

So, how to make a door for a bathhouse - let’s figure it out instead of the portal website

From “old-fashioned” schemes to modern ideas

So, it is advisable to make the height of the entrance bath door no more than 160-170 cm, so that precious heat does not escape into the street. The optimal distance between the jambs is 60-70 cm, and the width of the door is made of such dimensions that will prevent heat loss as much as possible. It is advisable to make the doors to the bathhouse with your own hands single-leaf - so that they open outward.

In total, there are two doors in the bathhouse - one at the entrance to the bathhouse, the second to the steam room. But it happens that the dressing room is also a washing room, especially when the bathhouse, due to budget limitations, was built to be quite miniature. By the way, if glass is needed in the door, then you can only take it special - tempered. Further, the door itself should not be too voluminous or massive - it the main task is to insulate, not to protect something valuable from thieves. Yes, it won’t be difficult to break one from the outside - but even in the event of a fire, vacationers themselves can easily demolish it. And it’s hard to imagine what would happen if a person choking on smoke tried to open a stuck door to a bathhouse, which was made using the latest technology with maximum protection.

The ideal material for making a bath door is wood. It was from this that everything was always made in the old Russian baths - because it perfectly withstands all changes in air humidity and temperature. The handle for the door to the bathhouse can also be made exclusively from wood - otherwise you can get seriously burned. And, by the way, plastic to wood in this case is not the best alternative. And here inner surface It is advisable to treat the doors with antiseptics - the same as for the walls of the bathhouse. But not with drying oil or varnish - all of them will release toxic substances into the hot and humid air that those who are taking bath procedures at that moment breathe.

The most proven option for a do-it-yourself bathhouse door is tightly knit linden or aspen boards, always in one layer. As soon as the base is ready, the door needs to be insulated - this is important. Moreover, the insulation must be thorough - made of cotton wool, tow, polystyrene foam, felt and mineral wool. The outside will be covered with boards or dermantin, on extreme case- simple plywood. But under no circumstances should the bath door be heated or deformed by humid and hot air.

Step-by-step instructions for making a wooden door

An amazing fact: many bathhouse attendants notice that the bathhouse doors they made themselves have served faithfully for many years, and there is not a trace of deformation on them, but just expensive works of art purchased from companies for a lot of money with a quality guarantee “especially for the Russian baths" begin to lose their appearance already in the second year. And all because when something is done for oneself, it is always done according to technology, without saving material and certainly without any hackwork. But no one will be responsible for the conscientiousness of workers in the basement of some company. And in the end it turns out that beautiful door, which smells pleasantly of wood, the next year after drying it begins to “delight” with serious cracks and loss of shape.

So, the most optimal sizes do-it-yourself sauna doors – 1.8 m x 0.7 m. Good wood for these purposes it is alder, aspen and linden. If only coniferous species are available, then they must be processed so that the resin does not release later.

To make one, follow these instructions:

• Step 1. Planed boards are prepared good quality, 5 cm thick. These can be tongue and groove boards from a store, or homemade, but with the selected tongue.
• Step 2. The boards are laid out in a row and leveled. The most rational way to pad them is with PVA sizing.
• Step 3. As soon as the canvas of boards has dried, marks can be applied to the grooves. By the way, the grooves themselves need to be made in the form of a truncated cone. Their optimal depth is half or a quarter of the board, the base of the groove is 5 cm in diameter, the top part is 35 mm.
• Step 4. Now you need to select the grooves - according to the marks. A reward saw will help with this. Using it, you need to make two cuts - at an angle of 45˚, with a depth of a quarter or half of the board. And so that the cutting angle is the same everywhere, a block is attached near the groove - planed at the same angle.
• Step 5. Use a chisel to remove the wood between the cuts and install dowels - these are 5 cm thick bars. However, you can make it thicker - it will only make the door better.
• Step 6. The door is assembled with keys, and everything is checked for geometry and tightness. Why would it be possible to remove the keys and eliminate all the shortcomings.
• Step 7. The keys are punched into the grooves - dry or with glue, and their ends are cut into a cone.

How tight and reliable the fit of the boards and dowels on the glue is - that is how long the door for a bathhouse made by yourself will last.

Installing a door into a log house - all the details of the process

But this is just a door leaf. And it still needs to be installed in the log house. And there are some subtleties here.

So, if the door is installed incorrectly, it will expand by 1 mm each time you use the bath and gain moisture. And this is a fungus and its destruction. That is why at one time frame structures with panels began to be actively used - so the door swells only along two vertical beams, and the panels are inserted into the groove itself with a gap of 4 mm - this allows them to “walk” regardless of the entire structure. Important point: You can install the door only when the bathhouse frame has already collapsed - this is at least 6-8 months after its assembly. Otherwise, the geometry of the door will be hopelessly damaged - distortions and even serious cracks will occur.

You can use this method, but today they most often do it differently: the door is made with an overlap on the frame on special screw-in hinges - this creates a pretend gap of 5 mm on the side, although it is completely invisible from either the back or the front side. And any seal can easily be squeezed into this fusion.

How are these loops different from regular ones? It's simple: card cards are simply hammered into the entire thickness of the canvas, and after installation they cannot be adjusted - except by lining the washers. But screw-in hinges are used in a different way: the canvas is overtaken around the perimeter, a quarter of the protruding part 18x16 is cut out on it, and you get a rebate on the canvas without a box. The screw-in loop is screwed with the leg into this quarter, and the second into the box. That's the whole technology - if at all times craftsmen made bathhouse doors with one hammer, what can we say about today!

Here's how to install a bath door:

• Stage 1. Dimensions are determined. For example, the canvas was made 80 mm thick, which means the width of the box racks is 120 mm, and their thickness is 50 mm. For all this you will need blanks for feigned stitching and loop stitching. vertical stand and two horizontal crossbars of the same size and cross-section exactly 5x8 cm.
• Stage 2. Two bars of 1.87 meters are made, and horizontal bars are 5-8 cm long in the amount of 2 pieces. In these blanks, quarters for the canvas are selected - measuring 2x8 cm. To do this, you can use a chisel or a regular manual frezer. Moreover, the selected quarter on all workpieces should be in the same plane - parallel to the longitudinal edges of the workpieces. Then there will be no cracks - this has been verified.
• Stage 3. The contours of the hinge flaps are drawn on the hinge stand and milled for them seats- just the thickness of the hinge sash. After this, long blanks are placed on a flat table, and quarters are placed on them.
• Stage 4. On the side of the hinges, a gap of 2-3 mm is made with wooden wedges, for the rest - 5 mm, this is the only way the future door will open freely.
• Stage 5. Horizontal blanks are applied and their length is measured in accordance with the distance between the edges of the long blanks, and cut off using a hacksaw along the mark.
• Stage 6. Quarters are made in the corners and all elements of the door frame are joined together. For this purpose not yet assembled box The canvas is laid down, the hinges are inserted into place and a gap is created with wedges along the entire contour. The angles are checked - they all must be 90˚.
• Stage 7. Produced final assembly with fixed hinges, gaps are set and the box is fastened with self-tapping screws - 2 pcs. at each joint. And to prevent cracks from appearing at the joints over time, holes should be drilled 0.5 mm larger than the large diameter self-tapping screw, while in the quarter that is held together there is 2 mm less. That's the whole secret.

All that remains is to check the door - if it opens freely and completely and closes without any gaps - everything was done correctly.

A self-built and equipped sauna is the dream of many who like to take a steam bath and improve their body health. Construction of a bathhouse – hard work, in which you need to take into account many nuances and little things.

Even such a simple design at first glance - the front door - must be properly manufactured and installed. Any minor flaws in the manufacture and installation of the door can lead to a number of problems: drafts, low thermal insulation, misalignment or deformation.

1. Manufacturing of door panels.
2. Door insulation.
3. Installation of the door frame.
4. Installation of door to door frame.

A reliable and high-quality door to a bathhouse has a number of requirements, including:

• good thermal insulation;
• convenient fixation system, which minimizes heat loss when opening the door;
• ease of opening and closing the structure, which is very important for quick evacuation from the bathhouse;
• strength, durability and reliability;
• resistance to changes in temperature and humidity conditions.

Types of doors to the bathhouse

Wooden structures. Wood is the most best material for arranging a bathhouse. Environmental friendliness, ease of processing, affordable cost - all these advantages distinguish wood from many materials.

Metal

If funds allow, you can install metal door to the bathhouse. The door is strong, reliable and durable. But as a rule, metal constructions are not popular when building a bathhouse.

Glass

All-glass sheets are used in the construction of baths and saunas, which are located inside a house or cottage. The glass must be tempered or triplex. To install the structure, special fittings are required.

MDF, chipboard, plywood

These materials can be used to make bathhouse doors. But it’s worth knowing that slabs easily absorb moisture, become deformed over time and lose their original appearance.

Bathroom door sizes are always smaller than standard sizes doorways. A small door is needed to minimize heat loss in the dressing room, this is especially true in the cold season. Therefore, the recommended door height should be 170 cm, width - 70 cm. The door should open outward. This will not only save space in the dressing room, but also reduce heat loss in the room upon entry and exit.

For the door structure, you can use linden, pine or birch wood. It is important that the material is well dried and, after purchase, rests for several days in the room where the structure will be manufactured.

Materials for making a bath door

Important: the length and width of the web of connected boards should be 7 cm less than planned. This distance must be left for attaching the timber harness.

The boards are cut to the required length - 163 cm. The protruding tenon of the first board is cut off to create a smooth end. Then you can begin assembling the canvas. It is advisable to carry out a test assembly first to make sure that all wood elements are free of defects.

Next comes the main assembly. White glue is poured into each groove, which will increase the strength of the canvas. It is possible that the width of the canvas will be greater than necessary. In this case, the last board is cut to length right size and attached to the canvas. When assembling the canvas, it is advisable to tap each board with a hammer, this is necessary for better shrinkage into the groove.

The finished canvas is laid on flat surface. It is advisable to compress the canvas on the sides and top, recreating the effect of a press. This will improve the connection of the boards. You can use clamps to secure the canvas to the workbench tabletop. The door should remain in this position for several days.

Then the surface of the canvas must be processed with a plane. It is recommended to remove no more than 2 mm. It is advisable to fill all opened cracks and gaps with putty to avoid drafts in the dressing room.

Fastening the harness. The connected boards must be tied at the ends with timber. The beam is attached to the boards with self-tapping screws. It is not advisable to make butt joints at the corners of the fabric. The best connection is a “spike”. It is also recommended to make additional stiffening ribs using timber across the boards of the canvas on the outside.

The door is almost ready. All that remains is to treat the wood with a special compound that will protect the boards from rotting and bugs.

The last stage is insulation of the structure. For these purposes, you can use isolon, mineral wool. It is important that the thickness of the insulation is not more than 1-2 cm, otherwise the door will turn out to be too bulky. The insulation is attached with self-tapping screws to the outer side of the canvas, between the stiffening ribs made of timber.

You can stuff leatherette fabric on top, which is good protection from moisture and drafts. The inside of the door can be trimmed with wood paneling. The thickness of the material should not be more than 7-8 mm.

Installing a wooden door to a bathhouse

The door must be secured to the door frame. Before installing the door frame, grooves must be cut out in the side and top openings. The dimensions of the recesses should be half a centimeter larger than the width of the door frame beam. The reserve is intended to correct the deformation of the door leaf after installation.

For the door frame, a beam with a cross-section of 6 by 15 cm is used. It is important to select the material so that the thickness of the door leaf is 5-7 cm less than the width of the door frame pillars. A groove should be cut on the outside of the pillars, top and bottom crossbars, into which the door leaf will rest. This groove also protects the dressing room from drafts. It is important not to confuse the location of the groove; the recess should be on the outside of the door leaf, since the door swings outward.

After attaching the beam to the canvas, it is advisable to sand it over the entire surface, especially after cutting out the groove. It is necessary to remove all visual chips and wood defects.

At the corners of the post and the upper lintel of the door frame, they are connected into a “tenon”. The entire door frame structure is leveled. There should be no distortions. The frame is fixed to the doorway using long anchors. After installation, you need to check the installation of the racks and the top lintel again using a level. The threshold is installed last.

Video - Installing a wooden door to a bathhouse

Installation of accessories

Once the door leaf and frame are ready, you can begin attaching the fittings. For a heavy and insulated door, it is best to use 3 sets of hinges. The first set is attached at a distance of 20 cm from the floor, the second - at a height of 50 cm from the floor, top set- 140 cm from the floor. Uneven distribution of hinges will prevent the structure from skewing, especially if the door is heavy.

Also, don’t forget about the handles and lock. Wooden carved handles can become a real decoration of the door leaf. In addition, they will not stand out from the general style of the bathhouse design.

After fixing the fittings, the door leaf is hung on the frame. It is important that the door opens and closes freely. If the ends of the door leaf cling to the frame beam, then over time the situation can only worsen: the wood will swell and the door will become even more difficult to open.

The defect can be corrected in two ways: by widening the groove on the frame posts and re-hanging the hinges. It is possible that improperly attached fittings caused the door leaf to warp in the frame.

All gaps between the opening and the door frame must be filled with felt or foam. In order to hide defects, the perimeter of the box is covered with strips or specially purchased platbands.

A warm, reliable and beautiful door to the bathhouse is ready. If all installation and carpentry work is carried out correctly, the structure will serve for many years.

Glass doors are a common element of bathhouse design. Glass perfectly withstands all changes in humidity and temperature and is easy to care for. Modern views Glass is not only impact-resistant, but also absolutely safe if damaged. A special film prevents the fabric from dividing into sharp fragments.

A glass door is most often installed in the bathhouse itself - between the steam room and the washing room or between the washing room and the changing room.

Making a glass door design with your own hands is almost impossible. That is why glass sheets, door frames of the same size and the necessary fittings are ordered in specialized stores.

Attaching the box to the doorway is not difficult. It is recommended to remove the glass sheet before installing the box. To do this, you need to unscrew several screws on the hinges using a hexagon. Then the threshold is removed from the box. Side racks and top bar are installed in the opening, it is advisable to check their location using a level. There should be no distortions.

Next, using anchors, the box is attached to the opening around the perimeter. Holes with recessed caps are closed with special plugs. Then the geometry of the fixed frame needs to be checked again using a level; if everything is in order, you can hang the glass door leaf.

The handle is attached last. You cannot use metal structures - they get very hot when used. high temperatures and may cause burns. It is best to equip the door with wooden or plastic fittings.

Video - Installation of an all-glass door to a bathhouse

The sauna door that closes the entrance to the steam room operates in difficult conditions. Therefore, with her self-production and the installation must be followed whole line requirements, otherwise the service life will be short.

Features of the device of bath doors

To ensure appropriate temperature regime, at least two doors are installed in the bathhouse:

If the layout of the bathhouse includes rooms for other purposes (rest room, bathroom, washing room), then the number of doors increases accordingly.

Doors inside the bathhouse different rooms it is better to make it from wood to retain heat in winter

TO outer door There are no special requirements if she is not the only one in the bathhouse. It can be made from any material, well insulated and ensure a tight fit of the door leaf to the frame.

The door to the bathhouse can be completely wooden or metal, but lined with wood

Door to the steam room

Requirements for the door to the steam room:

• if the bathhouse is Russian, then tightness is ensured; if it is a sauna, a gap of 1–2 cm is left at the bottom for ventilation. If there are cracks in a Russian bath, steam evaporates from the steam room, and full acceptance of the procedure becomes impossible. In a sauna without a gap under the door, the distribution of steam is uneven;
• the door leaf should not be deformed from high temperatures, significant temperature fluctuations and high humidity;
• materials that do not burn on contact are used: wood and glass. Plastic cannot be used - with a sharp increase in temperature, harmful substances are released from it;
• The door should open easily outward and be without locks. Sometimes installed simple latches- ball, roller or magnetic.

But roller and ball latches begin to jam in conditions of high temperature and high humidity, so it is still better to give preference to magnetic ones.

The door to the steam room can be made from sheet fireproof glass

In the old days, they tried to make the opening leading to the steam room smaller in order to reduce heat leakage. The door was placed very low: about 1.5 m in height. Nowadays, good thermal insulation materials, so the door can be made in a regular size, taking into account the following factors:

The door can be any width - from 60 to 80 cm.

Materials

Inside the bathhouse, only wooden and glass doors are used, and metal and plastic are also used for the entrance.

At the entrance to the bathhouse, you can install a door made of plastic and double-glazed windows to provide the dressing room with additional natural light

Glass

A glass door looks impressive, especially if there is a pattern on its surface, but it is impossible to make it at home: this requires strained glass thickness from 8 mm.

A bath door made of solid glass usually uses frosted or tinted glass

The only thing you can do with your own hands is to install a finished door.

At the entrance to the sauna you can install glass door with magnetic lock

Factory-produced glass doors are equipped with silicone seals to ensure tightness when closing. The door frame is made of aluminum profile.

A door made of glass inserted into a wooden frame is safer and more reliable when used in a steam room.

Tree

You can completely make a bath door yourself in a home workshop only from wood: the material is accessible and easy to process. You should choose those types of wood that are most resistant to rot and absorb the least amount of water. These are oak, ash, larch, pine and spruce.

Resin from coniferous trees does not cause any trouble - it is released in small quantities and is easily removed.

By using coniferous wood, you will no longer have to worry about the door warping

You can use different lumber to make a door.

Thick tongue and groove boards

The easiest way to make a door is from tongue-and-groove boards: they are easily assembled into a shield, around the perimeter of which a timber frame is made.

The canvas, assembled from tongue-and-groove boards, is strengthened with crossbars, then the surface is processed

Such a bath door is usually attached with crossbars - dowels that prevent deformation of the panel.

Two crossbars are cut into and slightly recessed into the door leaf, then glued

Also, to strengthen the structure, fastening boards are nailed diagonally.

There can be several fastening diagonal boards: they are laid out in a pattern throughout door leaf

For a Russian bath with wet steam, a massive door is best suited.

Lining

It is used in two cases:

1. To make a frame door, the frame is assembled from bars, and the lining is used as cladding. The cavity of such a door is filled with a heat insulator, so it turns out to be very warm.

   The door frame is filled with insulation and sheathed on both sides with clapboard

2. For decorative door trim made from low-grade wood. This makes it possible to reduce the cost of door production: the door leaf is assembled from boards of cheap wood, and resistance to temperature and humidity is ensured by clapboard cladding, for example, made of oak.

   The clapboard-lined door ennobles appearance baths

Better to install frame door in a sauna where the humidity is relatively low (dry steam). In a Russian bath, even despite the vapor barrier, moisture can penetrate into the insulation (mineral wool is usually used).

Curly inserts

Doors assembled from such elements are called paneled. But the doors are made of panels:

• quite difficult to manufacture;
• are more likely to become deformed due to temperature changes.

Therefore, you should only take them on if you have sufficient experience in carpentry, and install them at the entrance to the bathhouse or relaxation room, but not to the steam room.

The paneled door is beautiful, but difficult to make with your own hands

Video: the secret of assembling a panel panel door for a bathhouse

Necessary tools, material and components

Let's consider making a wooden bath door measuring 2000x800 mm. To do this you will need to purchase:

• tongue and groove board with a section of 200x30 mm;
• bars with a cross section of 30x20 mm (to strengthen the canvas);
• bars with a cross section of 30x30 mm (for strapping);
• timber with a section of 110x60 mm (for the door frame);
• false strips;
• platbands.

Tools

During the door manufacturing process you will need:

Accessories

You will also need the following basic components:

Making a door

The manufacturing process consists of the following stages:

1. Cut the tongue and groove board into pieces required length. Since the length of the canvas is 2000 mm, and the piping around the perimeter is done with timber 30 mm wide, the length of the blanks is calculated using the formula: 2000 – 2x30 = 1940 mm.

   You can also arrange the boards in horizontal rows rather than vertical, so you don’t have to cut them along the edges

2. Treat all workpieces with an antiseptic.
3. Cut 60 mm from one board with a jigsaw along the edge to adjust the board to the required width (800 mm). Therefore, it should be reduced by the thickness of the side bars: 800 – 2x30 = 740 mm.
4. If the door leaf is assembled from a whole number of boards (narrower), then the tenon from the outermost one must be cut off so that the end is smooth, without a protrusion.
5. Assemble a shield from the boards, but without glue yet - make sure all the dimensions are correct.
6. The timber, prepared for the role of strapping, is cut into pieces: two 2000 mm long and two 740 mm long.
7. Coat all the grooves of the boards with white glue and join them together. Tap with a mallet to make a tight connection.

   To glue the board from the boards, only high-quality furniture glue is used, which does not turn yellow and does not emit harmful chemical fumes into the air.

8. Secure the shield at the corners with clamps. Give the glue a few days to dry.
9. Plane the canvas with a plane: set it to fine processing to simply smooth the surface.

   Using a plane, the surfaces of the assembled shield are given the necessary smoothness

10. Screw the strapping to the ends of the shield with self-tapping screws. If the width of the bar is 30 mm, self-tapping screws of 50–60 mm are suitable. It is better to connect the bars together with grooves.

    Angular connection of bars with grooves is more reliable, but requires skill in the manufacture of such fasteners

11. Attach two crossbars to the outer side of the door at the top and bottom, which will give the door rigidity. They can be screwed onto self-tapping screws or embedded into the body of the shield in the form of dowels.
    

    Pre-assembly of prepared door elements is carried out without the use of glue

12. Screw the hinges so that the door opens outward, and install handles.
13. The inner side can be additionally treated with an antiseptic, and the outer side can be coated with clear varnish.
    

    Impregnating a wooden door with an antiseptic helps protect the wood from rotting in damp conditions

14. Assemble a box from timber with a section of 110x60 mm. In depth it should be 60–70 mm greater than the thickness of the door and be perfectly rectangular. Select the dimensions so that there is a gap of 4 mm between the frame and the door - in the expectation that the wood will swell due to humidity.
15. Install the box in the opening and equip it with a rebate: either select a groove along the edge with a router, or nail the rebate strips (expanders). Install platbands.
    

    Installing a door frame in an opening requires special precision, because the functioning of the door will depend on it

16. Hang the door and check its free movement.
17. After eliminating the defects, screw the box to the wall with anchor bolts, drilling holes through the bars.
18. Close the gap between the frame and the wall polyurethane foam or clog it with a rag, since polyurethane foam releases harmful substances when exposed to high temperatures.
19. Install platbands.

    Installation of platbands completes the installation and shapes the appearance of the bath door

20. Screw the magnetic latch parts to the door and frame.

Installing a sauna door in a log wall

If the bathhouse is being built in a log house, then it is important to learn about the features of installing a door into the wall of such a structure. Two circumstances must be taken into account:

1. Install the door six months after completion of construction. Shrinkage of a log house is an unpredictable process, so the size of the opening should exceed the parameters of the door by 100 mm in each direction.
2. After this, the walls of the opening need to be strengthened by connecting the ends of the logs on each side with an additional element.

Reinforcing the opening is done as follows:

• at the ends of the wall on each side of the opening, a groove 50 mm wide and 30 mm deep is selected with a router for the entire height;
• a beam with a cross-section of 50x60 mm is placed in the groove so that it is not pinched by the walls, but moves freely up and down;

  To prevent weakening of the connections between the logs in the opening, their ends must be fastened together

• In the door frame, a 50 mm wide groove is cut out on the sides with a milling cutter, with which it is placed on the timber installed in the logs.

  It is necessary to mount the door frame in a log bathhouse on an additional beam built into the opening

Video: how to properly cut an opening in a log wall (part 1)

Video: how to cut a groove and install a door frame (part 2)

Bath door insulation

The insulation is attached to the outside of the door leaf, between the crossbars. The thickness of the material should be such that it is flush with the dowels. Usually basalt wool, glass wool or isolon are used.

The entire soft surface is covered with leatherette (leatherette, eco-leather) - it does not allow steam to pass through, so the insulation will last a long time. For a canvas with dimensions of 2000x800 mm, you will need a piece of leatherette approximately 2120x920 mm, so that there is a margin of 60 mm for hems on each side.

If you need to insulate a bath door, it is better to use dense insulation and then cover it with leatherette

To make the door appear convex from the insulation side, batting is laid over the heat insulation.

The leatherette trim is nailed to the door leaf using nails with large heads. On front side A wire or fishing line is pulled between them, which allows you to get a three-dimensional diamond-shaped pattern on the surface.

Video: how to cheaply and easily insulate a bathhouse door

The process of making a bath door is not complicated. By assembling the door yourself, you can put in maximum effort and get a high-quality and durable product, whereas expensive branded doors often don’t hold up. difficult conditions use and warp. You just need to carefully study all the recommendations again and boldly take up the tools.

Now you can buy literally everything. The same applies to doors for various buildings and premises: the range of products is such that it will satisfy even the most demanding buyer. But the bathhouse is something special.

The effectiveness of the procedures adopted in it directly depends on the values ​​of humidity, temperature, and their constancy. Therefore, professionals advise that everything that is required for this specific “object” should be produced independently, if possible, without relying on the integrity of the manufacturers. The proposed instructions will explain step by step how to make a door to a bathhouse with your own hands.

The layout of this building is very different; here a lot depends on its dimensions. But at a minimum, any bathhouse has an entrance opening and a passage to the steam room. It is the doors installed in them that have special requirements. The aesthetic component should clearly not be dominant; in the first place is the block’s ability to save heat. IN furniture showrooms a significant assortment of bath doors, differing, among other things, in material. If you read their descriptions, then any of them is the best. But is it worth taking every model you like as a sample?

When making doors for a bathhouse, you need to take into account what material the building is built from. If this is a log house (made of logs, beams), then both the frame and the canvas should be made of wood, and of the same species. The latter is explained by the fact that there will be no differences in deformation coefficients (with changes in humidity, temperature), which means that distortions, gaps, and cracks will not appear. For a bathhouse made of brick or cellular concrete, a metal structure can also be installed at the entrance (but not inside).

Why is wood priority? Its low thermal conductivity, ability to “breathe”, and environmental friendliness are undeniable. But there is one more explanation: it is unlikely that anyone will be able to make a door for a bathhouse with their own hands, for example, from thick glass (for the same steam room). And therefore her home production it is a hopeless matter. Not the best option and thermoplastic, although attractive due to its low cost and ease of processing. Any artificial material, no matter what the manufacturers claim, contains a percentage of “chemicals”. Taking into account the specifics of the bathhouse, it is better not to experiment.

Features of the door to the steam room

The procedure for its manufacture is generally the same as for its wooden counterpart for the entrance. But there are a number of points that must be taken into account.

• The canvas should cover the opening as tightly as possible so that steam does not escape from the room.
• The threshold is low; maximum 50 mm.
• Opening - outwards. Otherwise, the hinges (even the best quality) of the bath door will quickly rust.
• If the bathhouse is heated “in white”, then one door is enough; “in black” – necessarily two.

Preparatory activities

Choosing a wood species

From coniferous wood It's better to refuse. Although it is less susceptible to rotting, it contains resins. This means that their fumes cannot be avoided. Therefore, the door to the steam room with your own hands is made of pine, spruce - not The best decision. What is recommended?

Aspen, oak, alder. But experts advise using mainly linden or larch. The first is interesting because when the temperature rises, it releases substances that have a beneficial effect on the body. However, in terms of durability, it is clearly inferior to larch; This tree becomes stronger when wet, therefore it can stand at the entrance to a bathhouse or steam room for years.

Selection of lumber by size (cm)

For solid wood canvas:

• Cross members: timber 6 x 6 (8).
• Door: tongue and groove board, the optimal thickness for a bathhouse is 2.5 - 5. The width is chosen so that you do not have to cut samples to length, depending on the dimensions of the opening.

For prefabricated fabric:

• Box and frame: timber 6 x 4 (6).
• Door: board 12 x 3.5.
• Sheathing: wooden lining, thickness 1.2.

Wood processing

• This mainly concerns hardwood: impregnation with antiseptics is required. Otherwise in a bathhouse wooden door won't last long. There are enough appropriate drugs, but when choosing, you need to familiarize yourself with them component composition. The product used should not release toxic compounds at high temperatures.
• All wooden parts carefully sanded (by machine or by hand).

Taking measurements of the opening

Before determining the required dimensions of the block, you need to perform a number of activities:

• clean the opening. This will make the process of making a bathhouse door with your own hands easier, since the dimensions will be taken as accurately as possible, and you will not have to do any adjustments;
• check the correctness of the geometry and, if necessary, align the opening.

What to consider:

• The height is measured in two places, along the edges of the passage in the wall; width - at several levels.
• If the bathhouse is made of wood, then a door without a frame is not installed. Therefore, its dimensions are taken into account. This is a separate topic and should be studied if necessary.

Some mistakes may be made during the construction process. Therefore, the opening may be a little wider (higher) than required. You need to know that there are certain sizes of bath doors. They are smaller than similar structures installed at the entrance or inside residential buildings. This is due precisely to the need to reduce heat loss.

If the entrance door to the bathhouse may not correspond to the recommended dimensions, then for the steam room the size of the door is important. What to focus on (in cm)?

• Width: within 65 – 75.
• Height: 165±5. This total value, since the threshold (15 – 20) must also be taken into account.

Making a door

From the array

Make doors to a bathhouse using this method, without having experience in carpentry, difficult. This is due, first of all, to the figured selection of wood and the accuracy of marking the canvas. The procedure is clearly illustrated by the diagram below.

• The sash elements cut from the board are laid out on a flat “hard” base and adjusted to each other.
• Places for installing dowels are marked to connect parts and strengthen the bath door.
• Arrangement of grooves.
• Manufacturing of crossbars and jib (if provided).
• Assembly of the canvas.

On a note! Such a door for a bathhouse is significant in weight, so the frame must be installed quite massive. Accordingly, select powerful canopies.

Frame structure

Frame assembly:

• Before you put it together, you need to check the dimensions. In a bathhouse, even the densest and best-dried wood will gradually begin to absorb moisture. Therefore, it will swell over time. Therefore, the dimensions of the frame are chosen to be slightly smaller than the opening with a jamb. The recommended gap between them around the perimeter is 5 mm.
• Since the door to the steam room will have to be insulated, it is made prefabricated; You will need 2 frames with identical parameters.
• It is easier to make all connections “overlapping” with additional reinforcement of the door with wooden spikes. As an option - metal corners.

Sheathing

The frame structure consists of two parts. The one that will face the inside of the steam room is finished with a tongue and groove board. But for the second, the cladding material can be chosen from several options: MDF, OSV, chipboard.

Door insulation

The timber used to make frames has a certain thickness; The recommended value is indicated above. All that remains is to lay insulation in one half of the frame. Which? Despite all the advantages of mineral wool, it is hygroscopic, and a steam room in a bathhouse is a room with excess humidity. Therefore, not an option. It is advisable to use sheet polystyrene foam. Cutting and laying it is easy, as is sealing the gaps between it and the frame.

Door assembly

• The second half is placed on the insulated frame and leveled.
• Both parts of the bath door are rigidly fastened (with self-tapping screws).
• The gap around the perimeter of the canvas is carefully sealed. To do this, it is advisable to use a jute cord, on top of which a sealant (heat-resistant category) is applied.

All that remains is to fasten the loops, make decorative finishing outside, and the bath door is ready for installation on site.

• The door to the steam room must swing outwards for safety reasons.
• Considering the specifics of the bathhouse, for fastening structural elements Not every hardware is suitable. Parts are selected only from steel with anti-corrosion coating. Otherwise, the rusting process will begin, and cracks will appear around the locations of the fastener heads. dark spots. And the self-tapping screws won’t last long; you will have to repair the box and canvas.
• When assembling the door to the steam room with your own hands, you should not use metal fittings, with the exception of canopies. Considering the room temperature, the iron handle may cause thermal burn; optimally - wooden. The same applies to various decorative elements. At least you shouldn’t decorate the door from the inside.
• For all its advantages, wood splits easily. And since it is initially dried for the door, it is not possible to use nails as fasteners. the best choice. Optimally - self-tapping screws (for wood).
• The bath door is quite massive. Therefore, at least three loops are used to secure it.

Independent production and installation of a door in a bathhouse is a process that requires individual approach. There are many differences - in the thickness and material of the walls of the building, practical skills, and financial capabilities. But if, in principle, the order of assembling the block is clear, then it is not difficult to make a bath door according to your own drawings, which will fit well into the wall opening and will reliably retain heat.