Water pipes      03/08/2020

The doorway is made of plasterboard. Doorway made of plasterboard: make the doors yourself, install profiles and photos of how to sheathe them, video and frame. Door in frame partition

During renovations, it often becomes necessary to construct a doorway from plasterboard. Even a beginner can do this kind of work correctly with his own hands, but only if he understands the essence of the issue well enough. To do this, it is necessary to carefully study the features of each type of structure and the building material itself.

Drywall allows you to quickly and easily make a doorway

Features of the material

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the properties of drywall. GCR is a fairly popular building material, it is used in almost any field, it allows you to build both small decorative extensions and quite massive elements. Using drywall, you can quickly level the surface of a wall or build partitions, both solid and shaped, including making a doorway.

Benefits of drywall:

  • Ease. The slabs vary in thickness, but in general their weight is negligible. There are lightweight options for finishing the ceiling, which has a positive effect on the condition of the supporting structures.
  • Availability. You can purchase gypsum boards in any construction department at a price that is quite affordable for the majority of the population.
  • Wide scope of application. It is used almost everywhere, not only in the field of rough construction, but also for decoration.
  • Strength. Despite its visual fragility and small thickness, drywall can withstand enormous loads. With proper finishing and use, it does not deteriorate and retains its properties for decades.
  • Ease of processing. The material is quite pliable and very easy to work with. You can give it almost any shape with your own hands.
  • Quick installation. The plates are attached with glue or self-tapping screws to the frame; this can be done even alone in the shortest possible time.
  • Additional properties. Some types of drywall have additional distinctive characteristics. For example, blue plasterboard is moisture-resistant, red is fire-resistant. There are also plasterboard sandwich panels with insulation.

The main advantages of drywall are lightness and quick installation.

Changing the dimensions of the opening

In order to make a durable doorway from a plasterboard sheet with your own hands, it is necessary to distinguish several types of structures. Most often there is a need to change the dimensions of the opening, namely to reduce its height or width.

In order to complete this task, you will need an additional metal profile of two types: starting and rack. They differ, first of all, in the specific location and functions performed.

To build the frame you will need two types of aluminum profile

In order to increase the rigidity of the plasterboard structure, it is necessary to additionally lay wooden beams into the rack profile.

First you need to determine the required dimensions. If you decide to move the doorway slightly, cut out the wall using a grinder. Next, secure the profile at the top and bottom. It is also recommended to install an additional stand on the wall side. A vertical element is fixed at the edges and tightened with self-tapping screws. For greater rigidity, several more crossbars are attached.

If you need to reduce the height, the main supports will be wall profiles. After their installation, the plasterboard is cut into sheets so that its edges are in the middle of the profile. They are also screwed on using self-tapping screws.

Reducing the height of a doorway using a plasterboard sheet

Straight frame construction

More labor-intensive is the construction of a partition from scratch. Such a wall made of plasterboard sheets with a doorway must be designed in advance. The plan outlines the exact position of the door and the necessary parameters for the opening. It is important to take into account that the structure needs to be built somewhat smaller in size, since after finishing part of the area is hidden.

In order to do everything yourself, you will need a larger number of profiles than for the previous type of work. First of all, mark directly on the floor and walls. Here you need to outline the position of the vertical posts and.

Scheme of the frame structure for a partition made of aluminum profile

After this, you need to install horizontal profiles on the floor and ceiling, the rack strips will be driven into them. Additionally, the structure can be strengthened with horizontal profiles in places where you plan to hang a cabinet, TV or other interior items. The sheets are screwed in the manner already described. Insulation is placed inside the partition. An additional protective corner is placed on the corners.

Drywall sheets are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws

Arch

You can make not only standard doorways from plasterboard, but also more interesting decorative designs. We're talking about arches. In order to make them with your own hands you need to give building materials specific form.

Using drywall you can create an arched structure of almost any configuration:

  • direct portal;
  • ellipse;
  • round extended;
  • non-standard asymmetrical;
  • etc.

Interesting options for arched openings

The frame is erected in a standard way with one difference: the profiles are bent to suit a given project. To do this, they are cut with metal scissors. In order to bend the drywall, you need to go over it with a needle roller, then lightly wet it with water to make it more pliable and fix it in the required position. Make sure that the cardboard does not soften, otherwise the plaster will crumble and crumble in the future.

Stages of installation of a simple arched plasterboard structure

Plasterboard finishing

Sometimes you only need to slightly adjust the contours of the doorway. In this case, the wall is often covered with a layer of plaster. Some irregularities require significant consumption of materials, and therefore it would be more advisable to use plasterboard to correct irregularities.

To do this with your own hands, you need to measure the required dimensions for the drywall and fix it on the slopes and inside the opening itself. Minor defects and seams will be hidden in the future by plaster. The corners are leveled with a special profile made of aluminum or plastic.

Drywall can be glued to a special compound or regular putty can be used.

Finishing door slope drywall

Final finishing

After the wall has been removed along with the doorway, you can begin the final stage of finishing. For this purpose, putty and painting mesh are used. If you plan to do everything yourself, you can divide the work into several stages:

  1. Padding. A primer is applied to the entire surface and dried completely.
  2. Removing defects. The seams are sealed with sickle tape, the places where the screws are screwed in and the corners should also be treated; it is important to hide the transition from the wall to plasterboard construction.
  3. Alignment. The locally applied putty is rubbed off after complete drying, and a new layer is applied on top, this time over the entire area of ​​the material.
  4. Mashing. The surface is sanded again, if there are no irregularities, you can proceed to decorative finishing, otherwise you need to repeat the previous procedure and wipe the surface again.

It is possible to hide drywall seams using putty

Subject to compliance with design standards and rules, a doorway made of gypsum plasterboard will be able to withstand significant loads. At the same time, it will look even better than the standard options.

A plasterboard doorway will allow you to quickly and economically straighten curved walls Drywall is durable and available material, which absolutely anyone can learn to work with, even without construction experience. Today they make it from plasterboard decorative elements, all kinds of shelves and niches. It is used to level walls and create multi-level floors and ceilings. Therefore, it is not surprising that plasterboard began to be used for construction interior partitions. How to make a gypsum plasterboard partition with a doorway yourself - read below.

How to make an opening for a plasterboard door: preparatory stage

Making an interior partition with a doorway may be necessary if uneven walls in room. In addition, a plasterboard frame with an opening allows you to make it quite inexpensively and efficiently from one large room two are small. Using a plasterboard structure, you can easily change the dimensions (for example, make it narrower) and the location of the doorway in panel house, make a round or asymmetrical arch instead of a standard passage.

Before carrying out construction work, it is imperative to make a drawing of the future structure, taking into account GOSTs and SNiPs.

This will allow you to correctly calculate the volume of material and outline the scope of the upcoming work. When drawing up a drawing plan, you should take into account standard sizes plasterboard sheets and metal profiles. Thus, standard gypsum boards are made with dimensions of 250x120 cm, and a standard metal profile has a length of 300-400 cm.

Before carrying out construction work, a drawing of the future structure should be made

If you plan to make any changes to the load-bearing walls, you need to contact the relevant authorities (BTI, Ministry of Emergency Situations, SES, architecture department, housing inspection, operating organizations) and obtain permission for redevelopment.

If this is your first time working with drywall, then you should study the types and purposes of metal profiles. The durability of the structure depends on them.

Making a doorway from plasterboard with your own hands

In order to assemble a frame with an opening based on interior wall and cover it with plasterboard, you will need: metal profiles (guide and rack partition), sheathing material, basalt mineral wool, scissors or Circular Saw for metal, a hammer drill and a screwdriver, a jigsaw, an edge plane, 8 mm dowels, metal screws measuring 25-35 mm and self-tapping screws with a press washer.

A plasterboard doorway is made in several stages

Manufacturing a frame with a doorway includes the following steps:

  • Removal interior door and dismantling the door frame;
  • Expansion of the opening (if necessary);
  • Marking the wall;
  • Installation of the lower and upper guide profiles using 6x40 dowels with a distance of 40 cm;
  • Installation of wall profiles along the entire length of the wall with a distance of 60 cm;
  • Installation of vertical rack profiles;
  • Installation of the horizontal lintel of the opening;
  • Installation of vertical guides opposite wall profiles;
  • Filling the frame with insulation (for example, mineral wool);
  • Covering the frame with plasterboard; To increase the strength of the structure, you can sheathe the frame in several layers, in a checkerboard pattern;
  • Applying putty to the joints of sheets and places where gypsum boards are attached to the frame;
  • Grouting putty, priming sheets for further finishing.

If design standards and rules are followed, a plasterboard doorway will last for many years. A correctly assembled structure will be able to withstand a fairly large load: the opening can even be finished with decorative artificial stone or brick.

Assembling a plasterboard door frame correctly: advice from builders

In addition to following the doorway installation technology, you should also take into account some nuances that will help extend the service life of the structure.

When assembling a door frame from plasterboard, you must adhere to the installation technology

So that the structure is strong and even, Experienced drywallers advise:

  1. Use wooden blocks to strengthen the vertical posts. The bars are laid directly into the profile.
  2. Mount the support posts using the insertion method, in which the shelves of one of the profiles are inserted inside the second. The ends of the double profiles can be attached to the guides using self-tapping screws or notches.
  3. Position plasterboard sheets so that their junction falls on the profile.
  4. Mount the sheets so that the screws go deeper into the material by 1-2 mm, and into the rack by at least 1 cm. In this case, the fasteners should enter at a right angle.
  5. Always install a minimum of four rack profiles. At the same time, their height should correspond to the height of the future door.
  6. Minus half a cm when cutting the profile in order to be influenced high temperatures he didn't run into walls.
  7. Reinforce external corners structures with a special profile in order to reduce their fragility.
  8. Increase the thickness of the partition in proportion to the increase in its length: the load-bearing capacity of a plasterboard structure depends on the size of the section.

To bend a sheet of drywall for an arch, go over it with a needle roller and lightly moisten it with water. After the fox becomes pliable, you can fix it in the desired position. The main thing is to make sure that the sheet does not soften, otherwise in the future it will crumble and crumble.

How to align a doorway in a panel house

Alignment of the doorway may be necessary if it is moved or expanded. In addition, doorways are often located at the junction of two panels, and can be skewed due to the mismatch between the two lengths of the vertical sides. The choice of finishing method for the opening is influenced by the degree of its curvature and the repair budget.

You can level a doorway without the involvement of professional builders with your own hands using plaster.

You can level the doorway yourself

Today, openings can be finished with either wet or dry plaster. In the first option, the opening is finished with gypsum, cement and polymer mixtures. In the second - with civil code sheets.

The easiest way to apply a moisture-resistant polymer mixture, which has high performance characteristics.

Drywall can be mounted either without profiles or with a frame. The first case should be chosen if the differences in relief in the opening are insignificant. In addition, you can combine methods to achieve a better decorative effect.

DIY plasterboard doorway (video)

The scope of application of drywall is extremely wide. One of the options for using the material is to create artificial interior partitions and decorate doorways. Making and leveling a doorway using gypsum plasterboard yourself is quite simple. To do this, you just need to make the markings correctly, perform the work in the right sequence, and follow building regulations, and take into account the recommendations of experienced builders. And then you will have a durable and beautiful design!

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum comfort and comfort in what it has. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully satisfy the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional areas, separating them with frame partitions covered with plasterboard and installing a door.

Anatomy of a plasterboard structure

Despite the features of the interior, your design concept, as well as the location and size of plasterboard partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. Their basis is a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the installation point doorway. To increase the heat and sound insulation properties, the sheathing is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the structure. The assembled and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides sheets of drywall(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The profile frame is filled with insulation and sheathed with gypsum plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions covered with gypsum plasterboard are used to divide or zone space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are installed in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of plasterboard allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special fire safety requirements.

Advantages

Frame structures covered with plasterboard sheets have long and with great success replaced partitions made of brick or wood due to a number of characteristic advantages:

  • Properties of materials. A durable metal profile allows you to install lightweight frames of partitions of any shape and size, without creating additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material, specially treated to improve its fire-retardant and moisture-resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam plastic or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GCR differs perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishing.
  • Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - even a beginner, “inexperienced” in construction work, can create them home handyman. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product can be easily disassembled and reassembled.
  • Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewerage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
  • Minimum costs. All elements that make up a partition covered with gypsum plasterboard are low in cost. When installing the product, piles of construction waste and dust are not formed, the permissible noise level is not exceeded and a minimum of energy is consumed.

Flaws

We will also definitely note the disadvantages of the design that need to be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

  • The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction(brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
  • Low resistance of gypsum plasterboard to heavy exposure to moisture. The material can be destroyed as a result of a leak “organized” by neighbors living above.
  • Inability to attach massive shelves to the partition surface or wall cabinets. The design is capable of holding weight up to 70 kg per linear meter provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some disadvantages of GCR, we note that competent creation And correct operation Partitions made from this material will help quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of a room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparing for work

That’s it, this short “theory course” is over, let’s move on to solving practical issues. Let's look at the list first the necessary tool, we will list the materials that we will need to erect the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their quantity.

Tool

To install a partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

  • Tape measure, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
  • Angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors - cutting profile strips into elements required length.
  • A jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall saws or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
  • Impact drill or hammer drill - making holes in load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
  • Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and installing sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! To install the structure on the upper levels, you will need a durable stepladder. Working with metal profiles and drywall requires the mandatory use of personal protective equipment - goggles or a mask, thick gloves, a respirator.

Materials

At self-installation The following materials will be used for partitions:

  1. There are two types of metal profiles for mounting the frame: PN - “guide” (English marking UW) - attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls to form the outline of the structure. Also used when creating a doorway. PS - “rack-mount” (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. Is load-bearing element sheathings.
  2. Drywall for sheathing - covers the frame on both sides.
  3. Insulation - fills inner part structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the main materials for the construction of a partition, you need to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's look at this question in more detail:

  • Profile. Standard installation interior frame structures imply the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. Choice this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the thicker the partition itself.
  • Drywall. There are several types of material for covering the frame; the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use gypsum board - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and creating curved and shaped structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
  • Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing a room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (cork board or dense foam), and to highlight the hallway area, basalt wool, which retains heat well, will be useful.

In addition to the basic structural elements, to create it you will need:

  • Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) – installation of the profile to the floors.
  • Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) – fastening frame elements.
  • Self-tapping piercing screws for plasterboard (MN 25 or MN 30) – installation of sheathing.
  • Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
  • Corner profile (PU) - strengthening the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The entire structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Expert advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas where screw heads are screwed in on the surface of the sheathing - reinforcing sickle tape, primer for gypsum boards, finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchases of material, you should correctly calculate it required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of cladding layers). Let's consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a frame made of a profile 75 mm wide and single-layer cladding with gypsum plasterboard sheets.

  • Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract the width of the doorway (0.8) from this value and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will secure entirely, vertically to the load-bearing walls. We will cover the remaining length of 9.2 m with three four-meter profile strips (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for strengthening the frame at the location where the door is installed and installing jumpers between the posts.

    The UW profile that forms the outline of the structure is indicated in black.

  • Rack profile (CW). Taking into account the standard width of the gypsum board sheet (1.2 m), the vertical posts of the frame must be installed in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the slabs are connected on one profile, and another element is located in the middle of the sheet.

    Frame posts should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other

  • Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and ultimately getting 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).

    The vertical posts of the partition frame made from CW profile are marked in grey.

  • Profile for a doorway. At the location where the door is installed, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a strip of guide profile; the same design solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we will need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW) of the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a section of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.

    Two load-bearing reinforced pillars are highlighted in green, and the lintel (upper beam) of the doorway is highlighted in blue.

  • Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from a guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.

    The jumpers made of UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure.

  • Drywall. As a material for cladding we use gypsum board sheets (slabs) with a length of 3000, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12.5 mm. To cover one side of the frame, we will need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. We calculate the drywall for the second side of the partition so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are offset by half the sheet. This also requires five slabs - two full and three trimmed.

    On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way

    The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one rack or 600 mm

Expert advice: Double-sided installation of gypsum board sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition, use two layers of drywall when covering it.

Summarizing the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway we will need:

  • guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
  • guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 stripes;
  • rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 stripes;
  • plasterboard (gypsum board 1200x3000x12.5 mm) – 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fastening elements) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels securing the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are installed every 250–300 mm.

Engineers from the German company KNAUF - a world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction- prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

Position Name Unit measurements Quantity per sq. m
1 KNAUF sheet (GKL, GKLV, GKLO)sq. m2,0
2 KNAUF profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40)linear m0,7
3 KNAUF profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50)linear m2,0
4 Screw TN 25PC.29
5 Putty KNAUF-Fugenkg0,6
6 Reinforcing tapelinear m1,5
7 Dowel K 6/35PC.1,6
8 Sealing tapelinear m1,2
9 Primer KNAUF-Tiefengrundl0,2
10 Mineral wool thermal insulation KNAUFsq. m1,0
11 KNAUF-profile PUPC.*

* Please note that the quantity corner profile(PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of ​​the structure.

Attention! To simplify calculations when building a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the main material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step-by-step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let’s be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of neighbors and begin installing the structure.

Expert advice: Any construction work using plasterboard should be carried out at a room temperature of at least +15 C. It is better to install structures before finishing the floors and painting work. Before creating a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and marking

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the location of its installation and draw up a schematic plan according to which the markings will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:


Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have drawn is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, you need to add the thickness of the plasterboard slabs and its finishing layer.

Installation of sheathing

Having finished with the markings, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:

  1. Using an angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors, we will cut pieces of the UW guide profile to the required length. We will paste a sealing damper tape on the back side of the blanks, which softens the sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.

    Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibration

  2. We secure the strips along the horizontal marking line, drilling holes for dowel-nails with a hammer drill (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen It is advised to start with the top guide located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot” with a plumb line from there the correct installation of the floor profile.

    We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a hammer drill and hammer in the fasteners

  3. We will install vertical guides, securing them to the load-bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and checking the correct installation using a building level. Note that fastening the metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel nails (6x60 or 8x60).

    When mounting the guides to the load-bearing walls, we check the verticality using a building level

  4. Let's form doorway, installing reinforced profile racks in the marked location. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper parts of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for strengthening the parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack profile and secure it on both sides with self-tapping metal screws (every 150–200 mm) or strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, selecting it according to size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.

    We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws

  5. Let's install the reinforced rack into the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (here a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict verticality of the element with a level and secure the part with metal screws. Let's mount the second rack in a similar way.

    When installing the rack, first install it in the lower guide, then carefully place it in the upper

  6. We will set up the racks from the CW profile in increments of 600 mm, starting from any of load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, and fasten them with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should be in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets, which have a standard width of 1200 mm, will be joined.

    The rack profile is attached to the guides with metal screws

  7. Let's mount the horizontal lintel (upper beam) of the doorway. Let's cut a piece from the guide profile strip 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip the right size with blind ends.

    You can insert inside the top beam of the opening wooden beam, further strengthening the structure

  8. We will install a jumper between the pillars of the opening in the right place (taking into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing flooring), check the horizontal building level and secure the part with self-tapping metal screws. This structural element can also be strengthened by any of the methods mentioned.
  9. If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to manufacture and install additional stiffening ribs - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made similarly to the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal screws.

    Option for placing transverse lintels in a frame with a height of more than 3 m

  10. Inside the finished frame of the partition we will install embedded elements made of profiles, strong thick plywood or timber, to which hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces can be attached. After this, we will mount the electrical wiring, placing it in special corrugated pipe, and we will also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.

    Wooden beams need to be secured in places where heavy wall cabinets and other massive interior elements are installed.

At this point, the work on installing the frame is completed, you can move on to the next one, no less important stage creating a partition.

Sheathing the frame with installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with special insulating material. Many years of practice show that an inexpensive but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Mineral wool slabs will reliably retain heat and also insulate the room from extraneous noise

Expert advice: In order to fill the frame of an interior room partition, purchase slabs or mats of mineral wool of the required thickness - material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and conveniently placed between the elements of the sheathing.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

  1. Let's cover one side of the frame with plasterboard, starting with a whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm pitch for racks from the CW profile began. Remember that when installing gypsum boards, you must leave a gap of 5–10 mm at the junction of the slab with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and the appearance of cracks.

    Installation of the sheathing is carried out from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began

  2. We attach the cladding sheet to the profile by tightening the gypsum board screws around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of the self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.

    The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall

  3. Using a jigsaw or knife, we cut the remaining sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets join exactly in the middle of the rack profile.

    We join the sheets of drywall exactly in the middle of the profile

  4. Having closed one side of the frame, we lay it inside insulating material, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the posts at random.

    Place mineral wool slabs cut to size between the sheathing posts

  5. We install the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fastening the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

    We close the other side of the frame with gypsum board, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)

  6. We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets in the place where the doorway is installed with a corner profile.

Attention! When installing gypsum plasterboard sheathing, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - to fasten the extension or parts of non-standard size, you will have to insert additional elements profile into the frame.

Final chords

Having finished covering the frame of the partition, we insert into it door block and solve the issue of finishing the drywall surface. If a strict vertical line was observed when installing the opening, installing the block will not cause any difficulties.


The issue of finishing the cladding surface is also resolved quite simply:


Now the partition with the door is ready for any type of finishing - it can be wallpapered, painted, applied ceramic tiles or decorative plaster- it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For more detailed information about the installation process frame structure, covered with plasterboard, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a partition from gypsum plasterboard and install a door

Many years of professional experience show that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing plasterboard for installing additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to use and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap. We hope that now you can do this work yourself without any problems.

Can be used to make doorways various materials, and the most popular material is drywall. The main advantages of plasterboard are its low price, ease of installation, and ease of finishing. You can make such an opening alone, without the help of experienced builders. But how to properly make an opening from plasterboard? Does the frame need to be strengthened? What should you keep in mind when installing drywall? Below you will find the answers to these questions.

How to make an opening from plasterboard

For manufacturing, you need to install special vertical racks. After this, it is necessary to strengthen the door frame to increase the strength of the structure. Then you need to do the installation door frame. At the final stage, finishing should be done. Let's look at each stage of installing a plasterboard opening in more detail.

1. Frame formation

First, at the selected location, you need to install special racks that will limit the opening. You need to install the racks like this:

  • The racks must be level, and their position can be checked using a construction or laser level. Checking the location of the racks is very important - if the racks are crooked, then you will get a crooked, skewed door.
  • Vertical partitions must be attached above and below to the horizontal frame guides. To increase the strength of the structure, you can also attach partitions to the floor as well as to the ceiling.
  • Along the height of the doorway, the racks should be connected with a horizontal jumper. You can fasten the metal parts to each other using shortened metal screws.
  • 2. Strengthening the frame

    To make drywall more stable, it is necessary to strengthen the supporting structure:

    • To improve strength, ordinary wooden blocks are usually used.
    • The thickness of the bar should be 3-5 mm less than the thickness of the metal frame.
    • The length of the beam should be equal to the height of the racks.
    • The bars are mounted like this: a wooden block is inserted inside and secured with wood screws. The optimal thread pitch for reliable fixation is 1.5 - 2 centimeters.
    • The length of the screws should be several millimeters less than half the thickness of the beam.
    • If you are planning to install a massive heavy door made of wood, then you also need to reinforce the horizontal lintel at the top with wooden blocks.
    • 3. Installation of the box

      Let's find out what the installation of a door frame looks like:

      • Typically, a standard factory-made frame is used as a door frame, which is sold complete with the door.
      • If you did everything correctly, then there should be a gap between the box and the vertical posts, the size of which is 3-5 mm. This gap makes it much easier to install the box.
      • Installing a box usually looks like this - first you need to buy special anchors; then small holes are drilled in the vertical posts and in the box, the diameter of which should be equal to the thickness of the anchors; after that, countersunk screws are screwed into the anchors; the resulting gaps between should be filled with foam.
      • It should also be remembered that a large number of polyurethane foam may warp the door frame, which will lead to warping of the door itself. To prevent this from happening, after pouring the foam, you should install a couple of spacers in several places. When the foam hardens, remove the spacers and remove excess foam with a utility knife.
      • After this, it is necessary to install drywall. To do this, you need to carefully cut the drywall according to the dimensions of the structure, and then attach it to the frame using long screws or anchors.
      • 4. Final work

        Let's find out how to complete the final finishing:

        • Primer. A special primer coating is applied to the joint between the drywall and the protruding structure.
        • Removing defects. When the primer is completely dry, you need to seal the seams with sickle tape. It is also necessary to cover the places where the anchors are screwed in with putty and primer to hide the transition from the wall to the structure.
        • Leveling and final putty. Now you need to wipe it down sandpaper previously applied primer. Then you should apply another layer of putty over the entire area of ​​the structure.
        • Mashing. Now you need to sand again so that the resulting structure is smooth.

        Let's find out what they recommend experienced builders regarding the manufacture of door reception from plasterboard:

        • Many builders recommend doing this because metal transmits sound quite well. Can be used as an insulating material mineral wool, which suppresses sound vibrations well. Another good soundproofing material is polyurethane tape. Soundproofing material should be attached to the metal frame using special glue. It is recommended to install mineral wool or polyurethane tape around the entire perimeter to achieve complete soundproofing of the room.
        • From plasterboard you can make not only standard rectangular openings, but also arched openings, ellipsoidal, rounded, and so on. To do this, you need to give the materials the shape you need. installed according to the standard procedure, but the profiles are carefully bent, and the profile itself can be trimmed using metal scissors.

          You will also need to bend the drywall - to do this, you first need to cut a rectangular sheet in the way you need; then you should go over it with a needle roller; Now you need to wet and attach the drywall to metal structure. Drywall should be wetted carefully - if there is too much water, the drywall will begin to crumble, which will make the resulting structure fragile and unstable.

        • Installation of a door into a plasterboard wall is carried out according to the standard scheme, but there are several important differences. Firstly, the insertion of bolts must be done carefully. Secondly, do not forget to strengthen the frame; if the door is too heavy, the metal frame will quickly deform, which can lead to the door being distorted and even to the collapse of the structure.

Creating a partition with a door has nuances that you need to know before installing the frame. Carry out calculations and determine the location of the doorway, prepare materials and power tools. Familiarize yourself with the rules for installing sliding doors in a partition and find out when insulation is not used - all this is further in the article.

Plasterboard partition with door

A plasterboard partition with a door is best option divide a large area into rooms that will have their own purpose.

Depending on the purpose of the room, the partition is installed with insulation material, apply sound insulation. In some cases, it is necessary to use double gypsum board sheathing or bend the sheet for decoration.

An important fact is the door being installed. The installation process of the partition depends on its type.

The advantage of plasterboard floors in apartments and houses

Drywall is a universal building material used in repair work. A partition created from GC sheets has a number of features:

  1. Features of the materials are resistance to moisture, temperature changes, and light weight. The created partitions do not weigh down the supporting structure of the building. Galvanized profiles do not rust. The GK sheet does not highlight harmful substances. Installation of the partition is easy, and the design is durable. It is possible to install lighting, make heat and sound insulation. The surface of the created wall is smooth, ready for finishing.
  2. Easy wall installation with doors. Installation of the structure is within the capabilities of a beginner. To get the job done correctly, you should follow the masters’ plan and take into account the nuances that arise during work.
  3. Electrical wiring and pipelines are laid inside the structure being created. It is possible to install hidden doors.

All materials used for the construction of the structure have reasonable prices, accessible to anyone.

When you need to make a partition with a door

In addition to your own desire to change the room, there are cases when a partition is necessary:

  1. Checking in new apartment. Contractors hand over new apartments without planning. This allows the owner to decide where the office, living room will be, and what size it will be.
  2. Major repairs with redevelopment. Let's say you need a separate room for a child, a room for work. In this case, it is advisable to install a partition with a door and make sound insulation.
  3. Installing a partition to create a dressing room or pantry.
  4. Office reshuffles. Hiring a new employee requires a separate room. The way out of this situation would be to erect a partition with a door and niches.
  5. Warehouses. There must be a warehouse accountant in the warehouse. For quiet work, allocate a place and create a partition. Using drywall is the best option.

There is also the owner’s desire to completely change the home. Make an office or corner for fresh flowers. Create in an apartment interesting design or apply a medieval style.

How to make a plasterboard partition with a door with your own hands

For creating plasterboard partition The work on the door must be done according to the plan. Each point is important for the long service life of the structure and its appearance.


Before installing metal profiles, carry out preparatory work. They are as follows:

  • determining the exact location of the septum;
  • cleaning - clearing the surface of the floor, walls, ceiling from finishing coating to identify cracks that may affect the gypsum board partition;
  • taking measurements;
  • purchase of material;
  • marking;
  • installation work;
  • finishing events.

Each item is performed carefully and efficiently. The strength of the entire structure depends on this.

Tools

To carry out the work of installing a plasterboard structure, it is necessary to prepare electric and manual tools:

  • hammer drill, screwdriver, drill;
  • cutter, metal scissors;
  • construction knife, hacksaw for gypsum boards;
  • spatulas with various blades, roller, brush.

For marking you need:

  • laser level or regular, meter;
  • pencil, tapping cord, plumb lines.

To install the GC structure you will need a ladder and gloves.

Materials


Need to purchase materials:

  1. Galvanized profile – guide (PN, UW), rack-mount (PS, CW).
  2. Drywall. Room humidity and fire resistance are taken into account. Choose a regular sheet - gray, moisture-resistant - green, fire-resistant - pink. Sheet thickness 12.5 cm.
  3. Soundproofing material. Mineral wool is used. It has insulation and sound absorption properties.
  4. Fasteners: dowel-nails 6x40, 6x60, metal screws LB9, LB 11, screws for plasterboard 25, 30.
  5. Damper tape.
  6. PU corner profile – to protect external corners.
  7. Reinforcing tape for gypsum board joints. Paper Knauf or serpyanka.
  8. Joint putty and finishing mixture.
  9. Primer.
  10. Sandpaper for grouting.


To install doors you need: a door block, fittings, fittings, fasteners (nails without heads).

Measurements: calculation table

To purchase material they produce correct calculations. This will allow you to save money and not purchase unnecessary items.

Let’s say there is a gypsum plasterboard partition with dimensions: length – 5 m, width 3 m. It has a door 80 cm wide, 2.1 m high. The frame is made of profiles 7.5 cm wide, the gypsum board cladding is 1 layer.

  1. Guide profile. Calculation of the perimeter of the partition: (5+3)*2=16 m. The width of the opening is subtracted from this value (0.8) = 16-0.8=15.2 m. The height of the partition is 3 m, that is, you need 2 profiles of 3 meters each, the rest of the profile will be used ceiling, floor and reinforcement of the metal structure in the place where the door will be.
  2. Rack profile PS. Based on the width of the plasterboard sheet, the PS is mounted at a distance of 60 cm from each other. The width of the partition is 5 m. This means that 5/0.6 = 8.3, you need 8 pieces of PS, each 3 meters long.
  3. Door pillars are made reinforced using a double profile. You can strengthen the racks with the remains of NP. They will require 2 more PS pieces of 3 meters each. PS 1 meter goes to the top of the doorway.
  4. For the frame jumpers, sections of profiles are needed. For accuracy, you need to purchase 1 more PS strip, and the leftovers will also go.
  5. Drywall. Sheet length 3 m, width 1.2 m, thickness 12.5 mm. For 1 side you need 5 sheets. Accordingly, 2 sides - 10 sheets.
  6. The number of fasteners is calculated based on the frequency of fastening. The mounting distance is no more than 30 cm.

Approximate calculation table:

To simplify mathematical calculations, use an online calculator.

Layout and marking


Before starting the construction of the partition, you need a plan diagram. It indicates the dimensions of the partition, its appearance(lighting, niches), type of doors (hinged, sliding).

The plan diagram is depicted on a regular sheet or graph paper. Based on the design and dimensions, markings are applied to the surface using a laser level, pencil, or meter.

Marking begins with pendants suspended from the ceiling. With their tip they show the points along which they draw a line on the floor. Accordingly, on the ceiling.

Basics of proper markup:

  1. Do not focus on the adjacent wall. She may be overwhelmed. To make precise markings, plumb lines and a laser level are used.
  2. Before drawing a guide line, you need to calculate the thickness of the GC sheet, profile, putty - these are additional millimeters.
  3. You should also consider the thickness of the doorway.

The floor line indicates the location of the door and the width of the opening. In this case, the swing door is not installed flush with the adjacent wall. It is necessary to make an indent for the free opening of the canvas.

The location of the door frame is also marked on the ceiling. Markings are made on the walls. The lines must be clearly vertical.

If indoors suspended ceiling, the partition is not made all the way to the top. Leave space

Installation of sheathing


After the markings have been made, the installation of the frame begins. To do this, follow the step-by-step instructions:

  1. A damper tape is glued to the back side of the NP. It is sound-absorbing and dampens vibrations.
  2. Holes are made on the floor and ceiling for dowel nails. 15 cm are retreated from the wall, after which dowels are inserted every 30 cm. NP is applied and fixed with nails.
  3. At the installation site, doors are not placed on the NP floor.
  4. The profiles are fixed on adjacent walls in the same way.
  5. At the location where the doors are installed, the NP is installed vertically along the designated boundaries of the door frame. Strengthening is done wooden board or 1 more profile. It is fastened with self-tapping screws.
  6. After this, the height of the doors is indicated on the profiles. Using these marks, a horizontal crossbar with a length equal to the width of the doorway (from one post to another) is set. It needs to be strengthened.
  7. Now measure the distance from vertical stand door to wall. This distance is divided into segments for the PS. The step between them is 60 cm.
  8. The rack profile is inserted into the NP from above and below. Fixed with self-tapping screws. A prerequisite is constant level monitoring.
  9. The metal frame is ready. For the strength of the sheathing, stiffening ribs are installed. They are prepared from horizontal jumpers made of PS. Mount horizontally, in steps (not in one line).

If the partition has niches, then their depth will determine the thickness of the box.

All work done to install profiles is checked for evenness. This is a guarantee of strength and durability.

After installation frame base electrical wiring needs to be done. There must be a diagram for this. Location lighting fixtures, sockets. All wires must be corrugated and not touch the metal profile. In places where a lamp or socket (switch) is supposed to be installed, the wires are set at 15 cm.

Crabs are used to fasten the stiffeners.

Sound and noise insulation

After laid communications in metal frame you need to start covering the main body with sheets on one side of the partition.

First, whole gypsum boards are installed. The sheet needs to be secured so that the horizontal boundaries do not coincide. Then the remaining open parts of the frame are closed. Small self-tapping screws (seeds) are used to secure the sheet. They retreat 3 cm from the edge. The step between the fasteners is 15-20 cm. The screws are recessed a little into the gypsum board, but not too much, so as not to damage the cardboard.

There should be a chamfer on the edges of the sheets. The sheet is not attached flush to the adjacent wall and to the floor, leaving a gap of 5 mm. Subsequently, it will be covered with sickle and putty.

After installing the gypsum board on one side, insulation is placed inside the partition and the partition is covered with sheets on the other side. The places where the lamps and sockets will be are marked, the wires are exposed outside.

Finishing

After facing with plasterboard, the following work is performed:

  1. Check all gypsum board joints. There must be a chamfer (recess). If it is not there, cut out a recess at an angle of 45 degrees with a construction knife.
  2. The seams are treated with a primer. To do this, use a brush.
  3. Serpyanka is glued to the joints using joint putty. The same putty is used to cover all fasteners.
  4. After the putty has dried, grout is done with sandpaper, removing excess solution.
  5. The entire surface is coated with primer using a roller.
  6. The HA surface is puttied with a finishing solution. After drying, rub and coat again with primer.

The partition is ready for painting, wallpapering, tiling.

How to make a plaster wall under compartment doors


To create a partition with sliding doors, a reinforced metal frame is made (double profiles), and the partition is sheathed with a double layer of gypsum board.

  1. There should be no insulation inside the partition. It can interfere with the free movement of doors.
  2. All wires are pulled inside the frame base. They should not hang - this is an obstacle to the motor mechanism of the door leaf. With all this, it is necessary to take into account the depth of the socket box for gypsum boards. It can become an obstacle to opening doors.
  3. The frame base is mounted using a level.
  4. When installing a floor mechanism for a door, consider the coating. It should not interfere with the movement of the canvas.

All nuances are taken into account when installing the partition, since it will be impossible to correct errors later - only dismantling.

Installing compartment doors in the wall

The compartment door mechanism is installed in the partition during the creation of the frame. The upper and lower door guides are fixed between the profiles, evenly and firmly.

The door leaf is installed into the mechanism after covering the partition and finishing coating. Installed doors check for smooth opening. After this, the fittings are installed and the flooring is laid.

How to care


Caring for the partition is easy. If it is painted, wipe the surface with damp microfiber. If wallpaper is glued, use a dry cloth. If there is tile on the partition, do not get it too wet. Water on the floor will penetrate the gypsum board and the surface will become deformed.

Installing a plasterboard partition will not take much time. For proper operation it is necessary to make the correct calculations, purchase the required amount of material and assemble a set of tools. If you don't have a power tool, you can rent one.

When installing sliding doors into the partition you need to be extremely careful to ensure that all elements are fixed evenly. You also need to make the correct calculation - how wide the doorway will be and where it will be located. We must take into account the opening of the door. Hinged doors or compartments.

Useful video