Finishing- the final stage of construction. It is wrong to include work on insulation in it. That's when it comes to facing floors, walls, ceilings, installing doors and windows, painting surfaces, then this can be called finishing. We need to somehow define terms if we want mutual understanding.
This article will focus mainly on interior decoration. steam rooms, but the finish will also be partially affected washing. If the site has thematic articles that reveal a particular issue on the subject, read it, there will surely be helpful information, and for your convenience, we have made links.
Steam room design
If it's about finishing options for finishing the steam room in the bath, then it would be worthwhile to classify them somehow and talk about them from different points of view. That is, you can talk separately about floors, walls, ceilings, doors and windows, or you can talk about materials. This is what we will try to cover below.
Floor
In the steam room, the floor comes in three versions:
- tree;
- tile;
- concrete.
The latter option is generally not intended to be walked on with bare feet, but in rubber slippers or on ladders, people walk on such a floor. We mention it here only for the sake of completeness. Although, if you paint it with something waterproof... In general, be that as it may, there are three working options for installing floors in the steam room. The wooden floor can be torrential or dry, you can read about the features of both options.
We will not touch on how to make this or that floor, we are only interested in what it is and what it looks like in the end.
poured wood floor- these are boards fixed on logs without docking. The gap between adjacent boards is up to 1 cm.
dry floor, on the contrary, is a very tightly joined boards, most often tongue-and-groove.
Both sexes after completion installation work can be dyed or acrylic varnish , or sauna floor impregnation. This will make the floorboards water repellent and the floor itself more durable.
Tile is also rightfully present in the steam room, because no one wants to change the floors every 5-7 years, as it should be with the pouring option, and the dry floor can also deteriorate - it’s still a tree, but it’s not particularly friendly with water (except species such as larch).
IMPORTANT! The main argument against a tiled floor is that you can slip on it. But there are enough tiles on sale that have a rough surface that prevents slipping.
Concrete… If the screed is made of high-quality concrete, then water will not harm it for a very long time. But it will also look like the decoration of the steam room in the bath was left halfway. To give some kind of completeness, we would advise painting it with paint for concrete pools - everything will somehow be prettier.
How to finish the walls and ceiling
We've united for a reason walls and ceiling into one category - they are usually made from the same material.
If regarding the floors there was still some variability in the choice of material for finishing them in the steam room, then for the walls and ceiling in a standard bath there is only one material - tree. And it is right. Firstly, it is a tradition, secondly, it is useful, and thirdly, it is pleasant and beautiful.
But in general, the design of the steam room in the bath, if we talk about the walls and ceiling, comes down to the choice lining. True, some leave walls made of timber or a log house uncovered with anything, but this is if the timber or logs are thick enough or the winters are moderately frosty, which is why it is not cold in the steam room.
But there are a lot of types of lining so that those who do not want the standard option have plenty to choose from.
ATTENTION! To begin with, let's clarify that imitation of a bar and a blockhouse (imitation of a log house) are also varieties of lining. After all, this word means, in essence, just a profiled board, and it can have many different profiles.
euro and non-euro
First of all, it varies tenon-groove connection design. Such types of lining are built on the differences between them, such as standard (according to Soviet GOST), eurolining, "American".
Secondly, they may differ profile front side slats. The presence and absence of chamfers, the degree of rounding, various protrusions and depressions create all the variety of surfaces finished with these boards.
It is also worth taking into account the presence or absence of ventilation grooves on reverse side lamella. They were not in the Soviet standard, but they are needed, and eurolining has them.
ADVICE! For those who want to get creative with the interior decoration of the steam room in the bath, we can recommend combining several different profiles, for example, smooth with a chamfer or without a chamfer and one of the carved profiles.
You can read more about the types of lining and plating methods in this one.
Of course, there is also the decoration around the stove in the steam room of the bath, and it is made, in particular, from tiles - ceramic or natural stone. But we will talk about this in a separate chapter below.
Doors and windows
For doors and windows, the most important thing is not so much design as right choice wood.
After all plastic door you can’t put it in a steam room, unless glass, which are made for the sauna, of course (that is, with a healthy gap under the door, necessary for the ventilation of the sauna). But if you cut the box, you can put glass door and in the Russian bath. And you won't have problems closing the doors.
But if the door is still made of wood, then high humidity will affect it primarily change in the volume of wood, that is, it will change the dimensions of the doors. And they will periodically not fit into the opening.
Here, in order to avoid such problems, you need to choose a tree that is least deformed by moisture. And it's very affordable - it's a common Linden. By the way, it is worth making not only doors, but also shelves from it, and someone will prefer a fake lining. The properties of wood will be discussed below.
We separate inside the steam room
Since buildings come from different materials, the owners are interested in whether there is any difference in how to finish the steam room in the bath, say, from brick or foam concrete. Basically, there are no differences even at the level of the device of the insulation cake, let alone finishing especially does not depend on what the walls of your bath are built from.
However, options do exist.
Interior decoration in a bath from a bar or a log house
bar or log- a material that in itself has excellent decorative qualities, so there is no point in hiding it under the skin, unless it is arctic cold in your area, that is, if the thickness of the log or timber is enough to keep warm.
In this case, the main concern of the owner will be joint insulation between logs or beams, their sealing(which will be discussed separately). In addition to this, among finishing works can be attributed to the protection log walls from a variety of misfortunes (fire, water, insects, fungi and bacteria) and identify decorative properties wood - both are done with the help of impregnation.
BUT! In the steam room, protective measures are limited to an antiseptic on the lower crowns and impregnation for the walls as a whole, which will protect them from water.
A well-sanded log has a beautiful "moire" pattern that can be made more visible with varnish or impregnation. There is a site on our website that tells about paintwork materials acceptable for processing steam.
Finishing with clapboard in a bath of aerated concrete, foam concrete, brick, frame
Finishing the sauna steam room, built from the materials listed in the title, in the vast majority of cases will be reduced to sheathing clapboard. This is the easiest way to make the interior "wooden". In addition, the lining is convenient and available material, and the difference in profiles gives the owner the freedom to choose according to their tastes.
Baths not built of wood are accepted insulate. In this article, we will not describe the heat-insulating cake - you can read about it in this one on our website. However, spoilers: methods of heat-insulating finishing of a steam room in a bath made of aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc. are the same. And lining is the final stage of this finishing.
The lining is attached to the counter-lattice. There are several ways to secure it inconspicuously. Previously, this was most often done with finishing nails through the groove, but this is hard work, especially when compared with modern way fastening to staples or nails using a pneumatic gun through clamps. As an option - you can mount on self-tapping screws.
IMPORTANT! Kleimers do not replace fastening with nails or staples, they only simplify it. Nice and handy addition.
Watch the video, which clearly demonstrates the method of fastening the lining with the help of clamps:
Regarding the finishing of the steam room with a clapboard, it is worth saying one more thing: there are two mounting options - vertical And horizontal. Accordingly, the counter-lattice must run in a perpendicular direction.
Since we are talking about a humid and hot room, it is worth noting that vertical fastening of the lining is not optimal. Each individual lamella in this arrangement is moistened unevenly, which leads to stresses inside the wood. In the future, it may crack.
In the same time horizontal mount makes the moistening of the lamellas more uniform. The main thing is not to forget when attaching that the groove should be on top, and the spike should enter it from below. Then the water will not flow into the castle.
In addition to what has been said, the described types of lining installation have another feature: vertical fastening visually makes the room appear taller and the horizontal lower.
Options for washing and steam rooms: materials
Let's briefly go over the materials suitable for finishing in the washing bath and steam room.
Wood
In the photo: finishing the steam room of the bath with a tree (lining)
For the floor, you can use more resistant rocks, for example, larch. Conifers should not be used because of the resin they contain, which flows out when the temperature rises. But on the floor, the temperature is usually low, so there are no restrictions.
However, it should be said that lindens And aspens low rates of resistance to decay and bioinfection (for example, by fungi). Therefore, we recommend that you still additionally protect the surfaces of this wood with impregnations and varnishes.
IN car wash there is no point in using a tree, unless it is design solution. In this case, it is worth recommending just coniferous- They are more resistant to water.
Stone
An option for how to finish a steam room in a bath is stone tiles. Of course, we are talking only about partial finishing, for example, near the stove (more on that below).
What types of stone are best suited for wall decoration in a steam room? You will be surprised, but there are practically no limits th - the main thing is that it should not be rock salt, for example. But pink Himalayan salt is often used as an interior decoration. Of course, it will not dissolve as quickly as a soup pot, but it has the same composition as salt in a salt shaker.
The wall behind the stove, of course, heats up, but the stones are quite capable of enduring such temperatures without harming themselves. But the situation will change if you decide to overlay the stove with the same stone. The temperatures are different there. And you should focus on at least those stones, in the lining of which ready-made stoves are sold, for example, talcomagnesite .
Alternatively, you can trim part of the steam room not with smooth tiles, but with chopped ones. pebbles or cobblestones, which are mounted on the solution with the convex side up. It turns out pretty nice decor. As you can see, even street boulders can come in handy.
On the picture: interior decoration steam rooms baths with stones around the stove
IN car wash stone can be used, but this is rarely done, because it is easier and cheaper to cover the walls and floor of the finished ceramic tiles.
Tile
The tile in the steam room is used either on the floor or on the wall behind the stove. As for the floor, rough tiles behave best here, for example, metlakh. It can generally be recommended for wet rooms. But all varieties of smooth glazed tiles should not be considered as a floor covering for a steam room.
IN washing it is also better to use rough tiles on the floor, and for walls ... here, in general, you know better how sober visitors will wash in your washing room. If not really, then give up smooth tiles there, eliminating unnecessary opportunities to get injured.
In the photo: finishing the shower room of the bath inside with tiles
sealant
Special mention is made of such finishing material as sealant for a steam room in the bath.
Sealants in a steam room can only be used in two cases: if it is log bath and needs to seal the joints between the logs, as well as to seal the cracks in the logs themselves, and the second option is to seal the joints, for example, foam glass, if used as heat insulator.
In the first case, we can recommend special sealants for wood, which have a certain elasticity, because the tree tends to constantly change volume under the influence of moisture. In addition, it is worth asking the sellers which of the wood sealants withstand the temperature of the steam room well (name the numbers at which you are used to steaming).
We came across a report from one sauna owner who praised wood sealant. Perma Chink, which he used for seams and Check Mate to seal cracks. However, we cannot say with certainty that this was not promotional material.
As for the sealant for the heat insulator, then you need to take silicone without impurities, for example Ottoseal S 73.
Finishing around the stove
The space around the stove needs a special finish for the reason that the proximity of the hot stove to the combustible material of the walls (the same lining) can lead to fire.
Refractory board for wall decoration when installing a sauna stove
Therefore, a heat-insulating material is usually placed on the wall, for example, minerite or superisol(mounting on ceramic bushings is desirable). To reflect heat, you can attach a sheet of stainless steel.
Tiles at the stove
If the walls are not made of wood, you can protect them with heat resistant tiles. Since tiles are used for lining stoves and fireplaces, you can find many varieties on sale, of which the seller will choose the right one for you.
Of course, oven tiles are more than suitable for wall decoration, but they can be more expensive, so it is worth measuring the heating temperature of an object located at the same distance that will separate your stove from the wall.
And one more thing - you need to take into account what is in the baths on personal plot in winter, with a long non-use, the temperature can be minus.
Some types of tiles are not designed for a sharp change in temperature when melting a bath - this issue should also be clarified with the seller. If you choose the wrong tile, it will crumble.
Photo
Finishing the steam room of the bath
Interior decoration of the steam room and washing room together
Finishing the steam room like a sauna inside
Finishing baths and steam rooms semi-antique
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The original Russian bath has always been made of timber. To date, for these purposes can be used: brick, cinder block, aerated concrete, foam block and others, sometimes cheaper, lighter and more durable Construction Materials. And to maintain environmental cleanliness and unity with nature, you can always carry out the appropriate finish.
In this article, we will look at how to sheathe a bath inside and out to achieve the best effect.
Choosing a material
To the question, what is the best way to sheathe a bath inside, there is only one answer - with a tree. And if other materials can still be used for the rest room, then the steam room should be equipped only with wooden clapboard. Let's look at the most suitable tree species for such purposes.
Linden
This material has been used for the manufacture of bath structures since ancient times. Even our ancestors, through trial and error, noticed its amazing water-repellent qualities, like for wood. Excessive moisture and hot steam have absolutely no effect on the color and shape of linden products.
Perfectly is suitable for production of shelves, ware, finishing. Particularly recommended for the production door frame. Such a door will never swell, and it will not be led to the side.
Aspen
What is the best way to sheathe a bath from the inside with a limited budget?
Aspen wood is great, which, in fact, is a cheaper substitute for linden and has the following advantages:
- Ease of handling by hand. Since it has a soft and pliable structure.
- Acceptable water resistance.
- Relatively low price.
- Very high strength with proper drying technology.
There is also a minus for this type of material:
- There is a possibility of internal decay. As a result, you will only learn about the danger when the entire product is destroyed.
Cedar
The best option for sheathing walls in a bath is cedar. It, unfortunately, has a rather high cost, but if you can nevertheless allocate a sufficient part of the budget, you will never regret it.
Advantages of cedar breed:
- High waterproof properties.
- Strength, which, according to American scientists, is not inferior to steel in some respects.
- Very low thermal conductivity. Products from such wood do not heat up and therefore are pleasant to the touch even in the midst of the steam room.
- Durability. Rotting and pests do not affect the cedar in any way, which also saves on expensive protective solutions.
- No resinous secretions on the surface. That prevents the possibility of a burn during contact with bare skin.
- Presence of beautiful colors and pleasant smell.
Tip: when buying cedar products, consider authenticity.
Because due to the high cost of such a product, cases of counterfeiting have become much more frequent.
Pine
Pine at high temperatures ah distributes abundant tarry secretions into the air, which prevents its use in the steam room. But such material is cheap enough to sheathe it and enjoy the woody interior.
Tip: when buying boards of any tree species, pay attention to the presence of knots in their structure. Because they are the most common causes of burns due to uneven heating.
sheathing
After you have chosen how to sheathe the bath inside, it is recommended to study the process of mounting the lining on the walls and ceiling. Of course, you can always hire specialists for these works, but if you wish, you can save money and do everything yourself.
Instruction:
- We install wooden planks on the surface of the walls and ceiling.
We use fixing elements depending on the material of the walls:
- For a bath from a bar, steel self-tapping screws or nails are suitable.
- For brick and cinder block, you will need plastic dowels inserted into the holes made by the puncher.
- between planks. It must be remembered that the work of the steam room involves the presence of high temperature. Therefore, for effective work baths and saving on fuel, you should take care of high-quality thermal insulation.
Suitable for this:
- mineral wool;
- felt;
- Styrofoam;
- polyurethane foam.
- We stretch the foil on top of the insulating material and fix it to the slats with the help of construction stapler. It will serve as both a waterproofing and a reflector of thermal radiation.
- We mount the lining on the rails, using clamps and starting from the far corner.
Conclusion
Whatever material is chosen for the construction of the bath, the interior decoration must be made of wood. Only then will the traditional atmosphere of the Russian steam room, which provides such a pleasant wellness stay, be observed.
Wood can be selected from a variety of species depending on your budget and preferences. Do-it-yourself sheathing will not be great work if you follow the help instructions.
The answer to the question, what is the best way to sheathe a bath from the outside, is more extensive, since the outer part of the sauna does not come into contact with a person. Here you can be guided by purely aesthetic considerations.
The video in this article offers additional information on the topic for viewing.
Choose the right interior decoration material and fully enjoy visiting your bath!
It is not recommended to use non-natural materials for the interior decoration of the bath. High temperature and constant humidity make it necessary to use only stress-resistant types of sheathing for decoration. One of the classics is lining. You can find out how to sheathe a bath with clapboard inside by reading the article to the end. We will help the reader not only complete the interior decoration, but also show how to choose the material.
Steam room trimmed with linden clapboard, covered with heat-resistant oil
Linden lining should lie down unpacked before finishing
Lining for the interior decoration of the bath is chosen depending on the purpose of a particular room, the degree of humidity in it, the temperatures used, etc. All material is divided according to several criteria: size, what it is made of, type of wood.
You can subdivide the material by size :
- classical. It has a narrow size, it is better to mount it vertically, since the horizontal arrangement visually lowers the ceiling, which is already low in the bath. In addition, the horizontal fastening prevents water from flowing down freely, and it accumulates in the connecting locks.
- Eurolining. These are wider and heavier panels, more interesting in the design of the room and have the same quality characteristics as thin lining. On the back side of the lining there is a special cut, which relieves stress in the product and over time the finish will not crack.
According to its composition, the material is divided into: vinyl, plastic, wood and metal. For a bath, the best option is made of wood, the rest for facade decoration.
Types of wood for the manufacture of finishes for the bath
The steam room trimmed with aspen clapboard looks attractive It is important what type of wood the product is made of. For a bath, wood trim with the lowest thermal conductivity is used: linden, aspen, abachi, cedar, alder. Moreover, you can not take any cedar, but only the northern one. It has less resin and when heated, the walls and ceiling will not start to cry. Larch species have a lower density of wood and with tactile contact in the bath, the lining will be more pleasant, even at high temperatures in the steam room. Such lining is more expensive, but the costs will be justified. Each of the types under consideration is better suited for different bath rooms.
Aspen: has a beautiful reddish tint and increased moisture resistance. In terms of durability, aspen can only be compared with larch. Upon contact with water, aspen wood does not collapse, but rather hardens. It is better to use for finishing the rest room, washing department. The only negative is the high price, because of which it is not recommended to use it in the steam room and dressing room.
original version steam rooms trimmed with lime lining Linden: Lining has become traditional for finishing the bath from the inside. Linden does not heat up at high temperatures and has a pleasant whitish color. But linden has a serious drawback - if not treated with antiseptics and protective compounds quickly begins to darken and rot.
Cedar lining in combination with linden looks great Cedar: This conifer tree, but its structure is of reduced density, so it is often used for a bath. Cedar has excellent antiseptic properties and, when heated, gives off a pleasant smell. But it is not recommended to use it in a steam room, since there is still some percentage of resin in it.
Alder lining in the interior of the bath looks original and modern Alder: has a pleasant pinkish hue with a pleasant velvety texture. Holds temperature well and is not afraid of moisture. The baths can be used in any part.
When choosing lining for finishing a bath, it is better to take Extra or AB grade chamber drying. Since changes in temperature and humidity in the baths occur constantly, it is impossible to use material with inaccurate or curved shapes. And in the higher grades this is unacceptable.
A step-by-step description of the installation of lining inside the baths
Aspen lining is sewn onto the ceiling Before finishing, you need to decide whether only the walls or the ceiling will be poured. To do this, you can see the photo finished works and choose the design you like.
It is necessary to sheathe the bath inside starting from the ceiling. Only after this wall. But first the walls need to be waterproofed and insulated.
Bath wall and ceiling insulation
Scheme simple option clapboard lining of the steam room of the bath It is not necessary to insulate all the walls of the bath, especially if it is a small summer log house 3x3 m in size. In such, only the steam room is insulated. In other cases, the entire Russian bath from the inside, including the dressing room and the relaxation room.
As a heater, you need to choose flame retardant material such as bosalt wool. It is better not to consider all materials like polystyrene. The insulation is attached to a pre-prepared crate od which is attached to the vapor barrier. Because of big difference temperatures, condensation can accumulate on the walls, the vapor barrier will protect the insulation.
Glassine should be fixed on top of this structure. It will play the role of waterproofing. All seams are glued with a special water-repellent glue. Then everything is covered with foil, it will reflect heat and prevent steam from escaping. You need to fasten the foil between the crate using a construction stapler or buttons with an overlap of 10-15 cm.
Material handling
The walls of the bath begin to be sheathed from the opposite corner from the entrance Before fastening, the lining must be unpacked and kept in baths for 1-2 days. The fact is that manufacturers, in order to protect the material after chamber drying, pack it in an airtight film. And getting into the natural environment, the tree absorbs moisture from the air and swells a little.
After that, you need to choose how to process the material. It is better to take the composition intended directly for baths. These contain antipyrines and moisture-resistant components.
Mounting on the walls and ceiling of the bath
Fastening the lining begins with the ceiling finish. The first bar should be fixed opposite the door. There are two ways to fix the links in the baths:
- Small carnations to the main crate into the groove at an angle of 45 0. Such an attachment will be invisible and the ceiling will look like a single system. It is not necessary to drive the lining tightly to each other when wet, it will swell and warp the entire structure or it will simply move away from the wall in separate links. By leaving a gap, the lining gets space for natural movement.
- Small carnations through the lining to the crate. This method is more suitable for eurolining. Beforehand, small recesses are drilled in each attached link, and then a nail is driven into them. These places are closed with corks made of wood and PVA glue.
Since the lining is thin, it is inconvenient to hammer in the whole nail with a hammer. To simplify, use a tool - doboynik
To the wall, the links must begin to be fastened from the most prominent corner to the door. Mount it in exactly the same way as on the ceiling.
A ventilated gap of 4-5 cm should remain between the lining and the walls. A gap of 3-4 cm is also left between the walls and the ceiling. In order for the air to pass well under the lining, planks are attached to the main crate. Finishing material will be attached to this second crate. Lathing step 40-50 cm. The direction is perpendicular to the fastening of the sheathing.
After fastening, the bath is thoroughly warmed up and see what happens after cooling. Incorrectly fixed links are additionally strengthened with carnations.
Subtleties of finishing inside the bath
- It is not necessary to mount the lining horizontally in the washing and steam rooms. Water splashes will fall into the castle, and the lining will quickly darken. But if the design requires a horizontal mount, then the spike should look up.
- All fasteners must be taken with a zinc coating, since iron will quickly rust with moisture.
- All mounting corners and slats at the top need to be slightly pointed at the bottom, so water droplets will go down faster.
- The slats are fixed 4-5 cm from the base, so as not to block the ventilated gap.
- Consider a ventilation system in the bathhouse, so the moisture will quickly evaporate and the lining will last longer.
- If the lining turns black, it must be immediately treated with bleaching compounds, for example, Senezh Sauna
We examined how to do the interior decoration of the bath with a clapboard with our own hands. Observing all the technique and watching the thematic video in this article, even a beginner will be able to handle the work with his own hands.
After the construction of the bath is completed, interior decoration of the premises will be required. The purpose of the work is to aesthetically design the space and protect surfaces from different kind impacts specific to specific conditions operation. But first you need to decide what material to cover the walls, ceiling, floor.
Most often, it is used to finish the bath inside natural wood. However, not every type of wood can be used, especially when it comes to a steam room. In conditions of high temperatures and humidity, some lumber can saturate the air with harmful substances.
What materials should be discarded when finishing the steam room
The following must not be used in the main bath room. Decoration Materials:
pine wood. The reason is that in very hot air, the tree emits resins that are hazardous to health. And don't let the pleasant smell that fills the room at the same time convince you to use pine boards in the steam room;
Read also: Optical fiber for baths and saunas: the principle of operation of fiber optic lighting, advantages and disadvantages, installation
Fiberboard and chipboard. Plates swell from exposure to moisture, and the microclimate of the room is poisoned by toxins that make up the components of the building material;
linoleum. It is also harmful when used in extreme conditions, creates favorable conditions for the appearance of mold, moreover, it quickly collapses.
Materials suitable for finishing the steam room
For a steam room, larch is best suited. durable, strong material does not suffer from excessive moisture and heat. No wonder bridges across rivers used to be built using larch.
Another tree suitable for finishing the steam room is linden. The material smells good, but it is quite an expensive product, as well as made from larch. But it's worth it, because the boards are made of linden:
resist destruction from moisture and high temperatures;
contribute to optimal ventilation of the premises, that is, they have the so-called breathing properties; decorative;
serve for a long time.
It is more expedient to use wood from linden and larch in the form of lining. Thin boards are easy to install, and if necessary, a damaged element is easy to replace. An additional plus of such a cladding is that you can do without a vapor barrier. But only if the bath is built of wood, not brick. The walls will be perfectly ventilated, condensation will not form.
Building a bath is only half the battle. It is important to properly equip it from the inside: finish, install a stove, arrange furniture, etc. High-quality interior decoration will make bathing procedures truly sincere and as pleasant as possible.
The bath traditionally has several rooms with different indicators of humidity and temperature, respectively, there are a number of restrictions on the use of some finishing materials.
| Room. Conditions | Recommended Materials | Materials that are undesirable for finishing |
|---|---|---|
Steam room. | 1. Tree. Finishing with a pair of wood clapboard is considered a classic. This material is best suited for wall, floor and ceiling decoration. Requires treatment with special impregnations (lacquer and paint not on natural basis the wood in the steam room cannot be covered). 2. Stone. It is often used for facing the wall behind the stove, at the same time being a fireproof cut. The solution is practical, durable, quite original. 3. Salt panels. Ideal material for medical procedures. Illuminated salt blocks will pleasantly transform the steam room. But it is better to use this material in saunas with electric furnaces, because. direct contact with water and excessive moisture adversely affect the material. 4. Brick facing. It can be used for facing the wall behind the stove. Pairs well with wooden paneling walls. 5. Porcelain stoneware and ceramic tiles with a non-slip surface to finish the floor and/or wall behind the stove. Recommended as top coat for screeds with insulation. On wooden base it is better not to lay tiles in the steam room. 6. Mosaic. traditional material for finishing hammams. In Russian and Finnish baths, it is not often used. | 1. Parquet and laminate. 2. Linoleum. 3. PVC panels for wall and ceiling cladding. 4. Ceramic tiles are glossy (slippery). 5. Ceiling tiles all types. 6. Plaster. |
| 1. Porcelain stoneware and anti-slip tiles, mosaic. Recommended in combination with an elastic anti-fungal moisture-resistant grout. 2. Natural or artificial stone. 3. Wood impregnated with antiseptics and water-repellent compounds. The service life in the shower is quite short. Best breed wood for finishing the shower - larch. 4. Moisture resistant drywall. It is used for the construction of partitions, as a base for laying tiles. Drywall can be used to protect walls made of glued laminated timber from moisture. It is permissible to paint GVL with moisture-resistant paint, but this option is short-lived. 5. PVC panels. A good option for finishing walls and ceilings, provided that waterproofing is properly organized. Finishing wooden walls plastic panels admissible only after full shrinkage. 6. Moisture resistant plaster. Finishing can hardly be called budget, additional waxing is required. It is possible to bring to life unique patterns by choosing the right structure and shade of the composition. | 1. Parquet and laminate. 2. Linoleum. |
|
| Any available materials are suitable for finishing. | The wall bordering the steam room is not recommended to be finished with wood or plastic. It is better to use facing brick, stone, decorative plaster. |
Consider several ways to finish the bath inside.
An example of finishing the ceiling of a rest room with clapboard
Lining is used for wall decoration very often. These can be expensive panels made of cedar, larch or more budgetary ones made of aspen, linden. Often, the owners of the baths combine different types of wood, the finish is unusual and very beautiful. It is better to use pine lining for lining the dressing room; in a steam room this is not the best choice.
The combination of lining from different breeds wood for walls and ceilings
They fasten the lining vertically or horizontally, and also lay out patterns from the rails, fixing is done to the beams of the crate. Be sure to use foil vapor barrier. But such a finish is already difficult to surprise someone.
If you have enough free time and material, a share of diligence and accuracy, pay attention to herringbone lining installation method.
Step 1. Calculation of lining. Calculate separately the area of each wall in the steam room (it is necessary to multiply the length of the wall by its height), sum up the results. You can not subtract the area of the doorway, as it is necessary to provide for a supply of material, taking into account trimmings.
When buying a lining, pay attention to the label - manufacturers indicate the number of panels in the package, as well as the area of \u200b\u200bthe finishing material. Divide the total area of your steam room by the area of one pack to get the number of packs you will need to finish.
If there is no information on the label, you will have to measure the length and width of each panel, excluding the width of the tenon, and then calculate the number of panels to finish. It is better to purchase material with a margin.
Important! Do not use lining with knots to finish the steam room. The density of knots is higher than the density of solid wood; when heated, the knots will fall out.
Step 2 Preparation of lining for installation. Unpack the purchased lining and store it in a heated room. You can start finishing in two days.
During this period, prepare workplace and tools:
- electric jigsaw or circular saw;
- level, plumb line, tape measure, protractor, square, pencil;
- finishing nails, hammer;
- wooden plinth for floor and ceiling;
- mallet.
Step 3 It is better to fasten the lining with the spike up. Based on this, we make the layout of the panels.
The herringbone can be angled up or down.
The photo shows the herringbone laying method with the angle pointing down
The cut must be made at an angle of 45 degrees. The ends of the panels should be on the bars of the crate. For convenience, you can make a template and markup on it.
Step 4 We begin to fasten the lining from above. We fix the first panel with finishing nails through and through. If the bath is wooden and has not yet shrunk, it is better to leave a gap of 3-5 cm between the ceiling and the sheathing, which will be closed with a plinth.
We insert the second panel with a spike into the groove of the top panel, precisely combine the ends of both panels. Fastening is carried out with a clamp. We insert the kleimer into the groove, drive three finishing nails into the holes of the kleimer through the finisher. On one panel you will need at least two kleimers, depending on the length of the lining.
We continue fastening from top to bottom until we reach the floor. It is also worth leaving a gap of up to two centimeters here. Lastly, we fasten the triangles cut from the lining from above and below, fixing them with nails through and through.
We mount the next row in the same way, but we change the direction of the lining.
After installation, we close the panel joints with a thin wooden plinth, fixing it with finishing nails strictly vertically.
There is another way to lay the "Christmas tree". The technology resembles parquet laying. The lining is sawn into rectangular planks. Laying is carried out with a shift equal to the width of the panel, excluding the spike. Fixation is carried out with clamps or building brackets.
Herringbone wall cladding method
Prices for lining
The method of mounting lining "rhombus"
As a crate, it is better to use not timber, but boards. This will simplify the installation process. The method is applicable for both wall and ceiling decoration.
Step 1. It is necessary to draw a rhombus with angles of 30 and 60 degrees. Between the angles of 30 degrees we draw a straight line, breaking the rhombus into 2 triangles. We cut the paper blank, transfer the drawing to the lining so that a spike is located on two faces of the rhombus. We cut out the workpiece. We connect two triangles to make a rhombus. We fix the rhombus with finishing nails through to the crate (two nails for each triangle, we drive in the carnations not completely).
Step 2 We take the whole lining panel. We apply to the rhombus, connecting its spike with the groove of the board. On the board we make markings for cutting.
We lead a straight line to the spike. On the spike of the lining, we draw a line perpendicular to the board itself, continuing the pencil markings on the other side of the panel spike.
We cut the board according to the markup. To do this, turn the lining over with pencil markings down, put the edge circular saw to the line marked on the spike. Turn on the saw and make a cut.
We take the second board lining. We apply it with a groove to the rhombus (on the edge where there is no spike). We carry out marking for cutting, observing the accuracy of the angles. We check with a protractor and a long ruler. We cut according to the markup.
Advice! It is more convenient to connect the initial elements on a table or on the floor, pinning wooden elements finishing nails to a piece of FSF plywood.
Step 3 We continue to work. Haste is not allowed. It is important to accurately mark and cut, join the corners. We mark or number each element, so that in the future it would be more convenient to mount it on a wall or ceiling.
Step 4 When decorative element will reach right size, it is necessary to remove the cloves and disassemble all the panels that were assembled on the table.
We assume that the insulation and vapor barrier have already been completed, the crate is full. Using a level and a tape measure, you need to find the place where the center of the rhombus will be. Accordingly, the center can only be located on the plane of one of the bars or boards of the crate. We pin the central rhombus to the crate, driving the finishing nails into the spike. For convenience, it is better to use a doboynik so as not to break the lining with a hammer.
We attach the following lining boards to the central element, adjust them with light blows of the mallet and fix them in the same way.
Assembling a rhombus on the ceiling. When the decorative element is fixed, further sheathing can be carried out parallel to the fixed panels or perpendicular
The joints of the rhombus can be closed with a thin wooden plinth, nailed through with finishing galvanized nails.
On a note! Placing lining panels in different directions, combining lining from different varieties wood, you can create an interesting pattern that will turn a simple steam room into a work of art. The wood of the "elite class" is considered to be cedar, fir, ebony and mahogany, rosewood, Canadian hemlock, African oak, pear and elm, eucalyptus.
When the cladding is complete, saturate the wood with a protective compound.
Video - Finishing the premises with clapboard, the result of laying boards in different directions
Video - Clapboard ceilings
Mosaic wall decoration
If the walls of the bath are wooden, of course, it is impossible to lay tiles or mosaics on them. Moisture-resistant drywall will act as the basis for the mosaic. This material is quite hard, does not deform under conditions high humidity, does not highlight harmful substances into the atmosphere, that is, it is completely safe.
The frame for drywall in its structure is similar to the frame for lining. For its arrangement, we will prepare a timber 50x25 mm and 75x25 mm antiseptic, galvanized self-tapping screws, perforated corners. We will markup using a tape measure, a plumb line and a level.
The beam must be antiseptic on its own or purchase material that has already been processed. Store timber indoors
Step 1. We fasten the beam under the ceiling with screws (if it is made interior partition, then the upper beam must be fixed to the ceiling). Using a plumb line, we make markings on the floor for attaching the lower beam. They must be in the same plane.
Step 2 We fasten the lower beam to the wall with wood screws.
If the walls are made of blocks or bricks, fastening is done with dowels through pre-drilled holes in the wall.
Step 3 We measure the distance between the upper and lower bars, this will be the length uprights. We cut the timber with an electric jigsaw or saw. We install the first rack in the corner of the room. We attach the rack to the upper and lower bars with perforated corners and self-tapping screws.
Step 4 At regular intervals, we similarly install the following racks. We check that the racks are in the same plane.
Step 5 We saw the timber to a length equal to the distance between the uprights. We fix intermediate jumpers between the racks with corners and screws.
Prices for moisture resistant drywall
moisture resistant drywall
Frame made of metal profiles
Step 1. By using laser level check the verticality of the wall. We set the level on the floor, measure the distance from the wall to the beam in different places with a tape measure.
Step 2 If the differences are significant, knock down the protrusions with a perforator. We remove debris and dust. We repeat the operation of checking the plane again.
Step 3. Using the rule and a pencil, draw a line on the floor (we retreat from the wall by about one and a half centimeters). The profile will be located along this line. We fasten the profile PN 50x40 to the floor with dowel-nails.
Draw a line along which the profile will be located
Step 4 We insert vertical guides (PN 50x50) into the lower fixed profile and fasten them to the walls (in the corners of the room) with dowel-nails 6x60 mm.
Step 5 We fix the PN profile to the ceiling. The top and bottom profiles must be in the same plane. If the length of the room exceeds the length of the profiles, we make a join, that is, we insert one section of the profile into another with an overlap of up to 40 cm.
We insert the profile into the vertical guides. Be sure to check the horizontality of the upper guide, for this we insert a vertical profile in the center and apply a level.
If necessary, we slightly shift the upper profile and only after that we fix it with self-tapping screws to the ceiling. We install fasteners with an interval of 50 cm.
Important! Laying of electrical wiring, pipes and other communications must be completed before the start of finishing work.
Step 6 Install intermediate profiles. We fix the ends at the top and bottom with self-tapping screws with a press washer. The distance between the profiles is taken taking into account the dimensions of the drywall sheet. For example, from the extreme rack we fix the next two at a distance of 40 cm, and set the fourth rack so that its center is at a distance of 120 cm from the first (angular) profile.
Step 7 We check the position of the vertical racks with a level and begin fixing the profiles with suspensions.
We insert the suspension between the vertical profile and the wall. With a marker, mark the points for drilling holes. We drill holes with a puncher, insert dowels into the holes, apply suspensions and fix them with self-tapping screws.
We bend the shelves of the hangers, screw in the self-tapping screws "bugs" to attach the hanger to the profile.
First we fix the suspensions in the center of the profiles, then the rest. The vertical step between the suspensions is approximately 50-60 cm.
On a note! So that during the installation of the suspensions, the vertical profiles do not move or turn along their axis, we fasten them with a horizontal profile, screwing it with self-tapping screws with a press washer.
Step 8 Install jumpers. We mark profiles for cutting. According to the markup, we cut the profile with a grinder.
We stretch the cord horizontally and, according to this marking, we fix the jumpers with self-tapping screws with a press washer.
Jumpers installed. They are necessary if the size of the drywall sheet is less than the height of the walls
On a note! Use magnetic screwdriver bits. This will simplify and speed up installation.
Installation of drywall sheets on the frame
Consider an example of mounting on a metal profile frame. Installing sheets on wooden frame performed similarly, the joints of the sheets should be located in the center of the profiles. Do not allow direct contact of drywall with the floor; plastic linings will be placed under the sheets. It is also not necessary to fasten the sheets tightly end-to-end, it is better to leave a gap of 1 mm between the edges for the convenience of puttying.
For cladding, we use sheets of moisture-resistant drywall with a thickness of 12 mm. We fix the sheet with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. The step between the screws is approximately 15-17 cm. We screw the screws in a checkerboard pattern.
First, we fix the sheets along the perimeter, then along the line of vertical profiles. We draw a vertical line according to the level and fasten along this line. Hats of self-tapping screws are sunk into the sheet by 1 mm.
Prices for metal profiles
Puttying seams
The joints of the sheets must be puttied using a mesh and moisture-resistant putty. If the edges of the drywall have a hand-cut edge, chamfer it at a 45 degree angle with a sharp knife. A primer is applied to the joints. The mesh is sunk into the putty mixture. After the putty has dried, the seams are rubbed with sandpaper.
Mosaic wall decoration
To fix the mosaic on the walls of the bath, it is better to use moisture-resistant glue, for example, Ceresit CM 115.
Step 1. Preparing glue.
The room temperature should be between +5 and +30°C. The recommended water temperature for the adhesive mixture is from +15 to +20°C.
Add the dry mixture gradually to the water. For 1.5 liters of water, 5 kg of the mixture is required. We produce mixing construction mixer or a drill with an appropriate attachment. The speed of the drill or mixer should not exceed 400-800 rpm. After the first mixing, we pause for 5 minutes and repeat mixing.
Advice! You should not prepare a lot of glue at once, the time of its application is limited to 20-30 minutes. It is impossible to dilute the finished glue with water. If it thickens a little, you need to mix the mixture well.
Step 2 We put glue on the wall. We begin to glue the mosaic from the upper left corner. We collect a little glue with an ordinary spatula and put the mixture on the edge of a notched trowel. We distribute the glue on drywall evenly.
Step 3 We unpack the mosaic, take one fragment and press the grid to the glue. Gently straighten so that there is an equal distance between the elements. We roll the entire fragment with a roller or wide rubber spatula.
It is important to keep the laying level so that the rows are even. The area of the applied glue should not greatly exceed the size of one fragment.
You can only cut the mesh, the pieces of ceramics or glass themselves are not recommended to be deformed.
Step 4 After 24 hours (or more, depending on the speed of drying of the glue) after laying the mosaic, we grout. To fill the joints, we use a moisture-repellent compound with antifungal properties, for example, Ceresit CE 40 Aquastatic.
For 2 kilograms of dry mix you will need 640 ml of cool water. Mixing is carried out with a construction mixer at a speed of up to 800 rpm. Pour the dry mixture into the water gradually. After mixing, take a five-minute break and repeat the kneading of the grout. The finished solution must be used up within two hours. It is unacceptable to exceed the specified amount of water so that the properties of the grout do not deteriorate.
We apply the grout to the mosaic with a rubber spatula, distributing it with diagonal movements. After 15-20 minutes, remove the excess with a damp (but not wet) sponge or rag. Remove the remaining grout from the surface of the mosaic with a dry rag.
Mosaic can decorate a shower room or dressing room completely or combine this finishing material with ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware.
Soapstone is highly valued by bath attendants for beneficial features. The stone accumulates heat well, cools down for a long time, and the vapors emanating from soapstone have a healing effect on the body.
Soapstone is used to decorate stoves and walls in a steam room, but nothing will stop you from decorating with tiles from this stone, for example, a rest room in a bathhouse or a shower room.
Soapstone is available in various variations - these are tiles with a smooth or textured surface, mosaics and even bricks. As additional elements manufacturers offer skirting boards, borders and corners made of soapstone. If the wall is to be finished in the steam room, you will need a heat-resistant stone adhesive (used when lining stoves, fireplaces), and when lining a shower room, it is better to use moisture-resistant mixtures.
The surface on which the tiles will be laid must be flat and pre-primed. Tiles are laid from the bottom up, observing the horizontal rows. The glue is applied with a notched trowel, the tiles are gently pressed against the wall. Laying is possible both end-to-end, that is, without gaps between adjacent elements, and for jointing. The second method is suitable for tiles correct form and with smooth surface. Tile cutting is performed by a grinder with diamond disc. Grouting is done with a heat-resistant mixture for stone.
The combination of soapstone tiles with different textures looks quite extraordinary.
Combination of smooth soapstone tiles and ragged stone tiles
Soapstone prices
soapstone
Video - Extraction and processing of soapstone
Video - Technology for gluing decorative stone
Remember - the interior decoration of the bath should be not only exclusive, but also practical. It is important that finishing materials do not contribute to the development of mold and fungus, are easy to clean, are safe for health and are as durable as possible.
