Spring is planting time fruit trees, this is the “hottest” season for summer residents. The most common garden crops in middle lane- These are apple trees, pears, cherries and plums. As in any business, it is necessary to follow the rules of planting fruit trees - only in this case, after a certain period, they will be able to please you with a bountiful harvest and will bear fruit regularly.
The organization of any garden begins with trees. Spring planting of fruit trees and shrubs is the most best option, although this can be done in both summer and autumn. One of the main advantages spring planting fruit tree seedlings - over the summer it manages to develop a root system and bark, which makes it better able to withstand the first wintering. After planting the seedlings, it is necessary to fertilize them with substances that stimulate the growth and development of plants.
The main goal of a gardener is to grow healthy and beautiful trees, which give a good harvest and are pleasing to the eye. In order to plant a tree, you need to dig up landing hole. Its depth and diameter depend on the type, variety and age of the seedling. When planting fruit tree seedlings in the spring, the excavated soil of the upper fertile layer is placed separately from the underlying soil. 10-12 kg of humus is added to the soil of the top layer, mixed thoroughly, after which part of the mixture is poured onto the bottom of the hole in a heap. Can add mineral fertilizers for fruit trees in the quantity specified in the instructions. In order to secure a seedling after planting fruit trees on a site, a peg is inserted into the hole in the center, which must rise above ground level to a height of at least 1 m.
Having lowered the seedling into the hole, you need to carefully spread its roots over the pile of earth. The rest of the fertile layer (with compost and fertilizer) should be poured on top of the roots. After this, the seedling is well watered (1-2 buckets of water) and the soil of the lower layer is poured on top. The earth around the tree is carefully compacted, and the seedling is tied to a peg. Do not forget to maintain the optimal distance when planting fruit trees so that they are not crowded later.
The principle of planting seedlings fruit bushes similar, but the pit needs to be made smaller. It is recommended to pour a mound of earth around the trunk to prevent the roots that have not yet taken root from freezing.
Planting and caring for fruit tree seedlings is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. It is recommended to plant fruit trees under the protection of other, more frost-resistant trees, such as rowan or spruce. A number of protective plantings are positioned to protect the garden from cold winds in winter. Buildings can also act as such protection.
How to properly plant apple and pear trees on a plot of land
Apple trees and pears are the most common garden crops. Apple and pear trees can be grown in almost all regions of the European part of our country, except for the northernmost ones. The apple tree is a fairly frost-resistant tree. It prefers neutral, light soils rich in humus and microelements; it does not tolerate marshy soils and soil with high level groundwater(less than 1m).
Pears have higher frost resistance, especially in zoned varieties, but pears get wet faster than apple trees, so fruit trees on waterlogged soils should be planted not in a planting hole, but on a hill that is poured in advance. When planting apple and pear trees, you can use any soil that is found on the site, compost, peat, sand as the starting material for such a hill. The foundation in wetlands is often broken red brick, slate fragments and ceramic tiles, small stones. Next, you can lay chopped large branches, trimmings and fragments of boards, branches, and shavings on them.
The next layer is dried grass, food waste, torn and crumpled newsprint (no color illustrations). All layers are covered with earth and sand. The last, top layer is filled with fertile garden soil with a height of at least 0.5 m, possibly mixed with peat. The hill must stand for at least one season for the earth to settle. Since trees are planted in the spring, the hill should be ready in the fall.
After planting a tree, it is necessary to add soil to the hill every season, not only under the trunk, but also around the perimeter of the crown.
Distance between apple and pear trees when planting
Before properly planting apple and pear trees, take care of the quality of the seedlings - it is better to purchase seedlings from nurseries, choosing released varieties grown in containers, no older than 2-3 years. Such seedlings withstand transportation and transplanting better, and purchasing them from a nursery guarantees that the tree matches the desired variety.
If groundwater is very close, the hill is filled in the same way as in the previous case, but first removed upper layer soil, and pieces of slate or similar material are placed at the bottom of the resulting hole to prevent the tree's roots from growing deeper.
This technique is especially justified when planting pears. In this tree, the root grows predominantly vertically downwards, and with this method the main roots spread over the surface and do not get wet. When planting, the distance between apple and pear trees should be at least 4 m from each other, as well as from other trees or buildings.
Fruit trees are planted for 20-25 years. Basically, after planting, apple and pear seedlings begin to bear fruit at the age of 5, so the issue of choosing planting material and the location for planting the tree should be approached extremely seriously.
Rules for planting cherry seedlings
When placing plantings, cherries give preference to gentle slopes small area from the southwest, south or west side. According to the rules for planting cherries, there should be good aeration, since the soil in such places warms up better, which has a beneficial effect on the plants. However, it is not recommended to plant cherries at higher elevations, since winter time the root system of the plant may freeze due to the snow being blown off the hill by the wind.
If cherry seedlings are planted along a fence, they should be placed on a well-lit side. To avoid shading of the cherry tree by other trees (for example, apple trees), plantings are placed on the south side. If you plant a cherry tree on the north side, the tree will stretch out and practically not bear fruit at all. Dwarf and semi-dwarf trees also require sufficient lighting and warmth.
Cherries grow well in soils various types, however, in order to obtain a high yield and stable fruiting, it is planted on fertile soil with high physical characteristics, sufficiently moist, and receiving a lot of air. Chernozem, light loamy and forest soils have such properties.
Cherry does not tolerate heavy clay soils, as well as acidic ones. Lowland areas and valleys are not suitable for planting this crop, because cool air and moisture are concentrated in these places. The most favorable conditions for the full growth and development of cherries - on soils that have a slightly acidic or close to neutral reaction.
Distance between cherry seedlings when planting
The best planting material for establishing a cherry orchard, both in the southern part of Russia and in central Russia, are annual seedlings with a well-developed crown. However, in the northern regions it is preferable to plant two-year-old seedlings.
Before planting seedlings, it is necessary to check the depth of groundwater. They should be located at a distance of about 2 m from the ground surface. Seedlings are prepared for planting in the following way: after removing them from winter digging, they are carefully inspected, damaged roots are cut off, as well as excess branches of the crown.
Planting is done in early dates, since buried seedlings can quickly take root and begin to grow. If planting is late, the seedlings may not take root (even with satisfactory care for them).
Plowing the soil with the laying of mineral and organic fertilizers, as well as lime, if necessary, is produced a maximum of 1.5-2 years before the trees are planted, and no later than September of the previous year.
If the soils have average fertility, manure, compost or humus is used as fertilizer, which is usually applied at 5-6 kg per 1 m2. If the soil is depleted, the rate of such fertilizers is 8-9 kg per 1 m2. Mineral fertilizers are applied in quantities 2 times less than organic fertilizers.
The distance between cherry seedlings depends on the variety. Trees with a wide crown, such cherry varieties as "Yubileinaya", "Vladimirskaya" and "Shubinka", are planted at a distance of 3.5 m from each other. The distance when planting semi-dwarf cherries is on average 2.5 m.
When planting cherries, you can adhere to a scheme that involves a compacted arrangement of trees. Usually this has no effect on taste qualities fruits
Planting fruit trees: distance between plum seedlings
Plum seedlings purchased in the fall are buried for the winter in a pre-dug elongated hole up to 45 cm deep. They are placed in a trench at an angle, after which they are covered with earth to cover half the stem. Then the soil around is compacted. In winter, the seedlings are covered with snow - this way they will be better protected from frost. High elevations and light loamy soils are suitable for growing plums. Trees are planted in the spring. The distance when planting plums is at least 3 m from each other.
In order to plant a seedling, dig a hole 60 cm deep and 90 cm wide. The top fertile layer of soil is placed on one side, and the bottom on the other. Then a planting stake is installed in the center of the hole and filled two-thirds with topsoil. Organic and mineral fertilizers are first added to it: 12 kg of compost or rotted manure, 1 kg of superphosphate, 0.5 cups of potassium chloride or 5 cups of wood ash.
Planting plum seedlings is convenient for two people. The seedling must be installed on the north side, the roots are spread on the surface of the mound, and then fertile soil is poured into the hole. When planting is done correctly, the root collar of the seedling is located at a distance of 4-5 cm from the soil surface. After planting, a hole is dug around the young tree, after which the seedling is watered. The plum is tied to the stake using twine or film. If the groundwater level in the garden plot is above 1.5 m, the soil is raised by 0.5 m before planting the plums.
Majority garden plants can be planted in both spring and autumn; gardeners usually prefer autumn planting, but in central Russia with fairly early and harsh winters autumn planting seedlings will lead to freezing of plants.
Therefore, for middle latitudes, spring planting of seedlings is more justified. But it must be carried out strictly before the buds open.
Preparatory work in the garden
Holes for planting need to be prepared in the fall. This is especially important for dense soils - clayey and loamy, where serious soil replacement is required. The rule is simple: for autumn planting of seedlings, pits are prepared in the spring, for spring ones - in the fall. The prepared pit should stand for 6-7 months.
Why dig a hole for seedlings in advance?
If you plant trees or shrubs in a hole freshly dug in spring, the earth will gradually settle and pull the seedlings along with it, they will end up below the level of the site, i.e. in the hole. This means that puddles of water will accumulate, melt water will stand, and snow melting will be delayed. If you dig a hole, there is a risk of deepening the root collar, but it should only be covered with a thin layer of soil (1-2 cm).
Trees that are too deep when planted are stunted, develop slowly and bear fruit worse. A planting mistake needs to be corrected (lifting the plant out of the ground) to save the seedling, but this is a very labor-intensive job, so just try to avoid incorrect planting.
How to dig holes for planting seedlings
The depth and diameter of the hole for planting seedlings depends on the crop:
- For pears and apple trees 60-70 cm deep, 80-90 cm in diameter
- Plums and cherries - 40 cm deep, 70-80 cm in diameter
- Currants, honeysuckle and gooseberries - 35-40 cm deep, 60 cm in diameter
- Sea buckthorn, serviceberry - 40 cm deep, 80 cm in diameter
- Raspberries - 30-40 cm deep, 50 cm in diameter
Distance between future trees: for apple, pear, cherry plum, cherry, cherry - 5 m.
The technique of digging a hole and then filling it with earth is also special. For fruit trees, the holes are dug quite deep, and the soil removed is heterogeneous. The excavated soil conventionally has two fractions - the arable layer - approximately 20 cm of the top soil (half the bayonet of a shovel) and the subsurface layer - the one that is deeper than the top 20 cm.
When digging a hole for seedlings, throw the soil into two different piles - one for the arable layer, and the other for the lower horizon. Then partly evenly scatter the lower, infertile soil over the site, and partly make it trunk circle, or immediately load it into a wheelbarrow to take it outside the garden. The walls of the pit must be vertical!
Preparing a hole in an abandoned area
If fruit planting is carried out in an abandoned area overgrown with turf, the scheme is different: you need to remove a layer of turf (10-15 cm depending on the herbs) and put it aside, then remove the fertile layer under the turf (another 15-20 cm) and put it in a separate a bunch. Then dig up all the soil below required depth(about the size of a shovel) and put it in a garden cart.
At the dug hole, we level the walls (vertically, like in a well) and put the turf on the bottom of the hole, turning the layers over with the grass facing down.
Refueling the pit
The dug hole must be filled; it cannot be left empty until spring, otherwise melt water will remain in it for a long time, and the hole will become unsuitable for spring planting - by the time the water goes away, all planting dates will expire.
Therefore, we fill the pit in the fall. For this you will need:
- 1-2 buckets of well-rotted manure (aged 3 years)
- 1-2 buckets of leaf humus (either peat or fertile soil from other plantings on the site)
- approximately 100-200 g of ash per 1 sq. m of soil (1-2 faceted glasses)
- fertile soil removed from a hole
We pour all the components into the pit in parts: a third of each in three additions, and mix with a shovel. After each layer you need to trample the ground with your feet. The total volume of filling for the pit should be in such quantity that a mound approximately 20 cm high is formed in place of the pit.
Humus (rotted manure) is ideally horse manure; it is ideally suited for fertilizing; mullein comes in second place. Not suitable for seedlings at all bird droppings. Manure must not be used fresh; it must sit well for at least two years, preferably three.
Applying fertilizers when planting seedlings
Whether or not to add mineral fertilizers to the hole when planting seedlings is a controversial issue. The root system of seedlings is severely damaged during digging and reacts sensitively to contact with fertilizers; young growing roots are burned and die. Instead of growing the root system, the plant freezes in growth or dies.
Plant roots are especially sensitive to nitrogen and potassium fertilizers. The only way to avoid root burn is to introduce them at some distance from the root ball of the seedling.
But this is impractical due to the fact that mineral fertilizers do not have time to wait until the established roots grow to them and absorb them painlessly - they dissolve in water and are washed into the lower layers of the soil much earlier.
Phosphorus fertilizers could have a somewhat milder effect on the roots if they contained phosphorus in its pure form. However, simple or double superphosphate in addition to phosphorus ions, they contain impurities that are far from harmless to roots, especially young ones and those injured by transplantation. Therefore, it is also permissible to add phosphorus fertilizers when planting only at some distance from the root ball of the seedlings.
Traditional agronomy taught us to apply fertilizers when planting seedlings as follows: nitrogen fertilizers (rotted manure, compost) necessary for good growth seedlings, mix with soil to fill the hole (with the fertile layer removed). Mix phosphorus and potassium fertilizers with a small amount of soil (scoop of a shovel) and pour into the bottom of the hole. Do not add mineral fertilizers to the soil of the upper half of the hole, where the plant’s root system will be located.
Such a system helps to avoid burning the roots, but there is a possibility that by the time the root system recovers, grows and reaches the layer of soil with embedded fertilizers, the nutrients from it will be washed out or intercepted by the grass roots.
From the point of view of modern agronomy, there is no need to apply any mineral fertilizers to the hole when planting seedlings. Serious damage to young trees or shrubs can be caused, including the death of the plant.
How to speed up the growth of seedlings
After planting, it is especially important to achieve the development of a good root system of fruit crops. Therefore, fertilizing should be safe - use weak solutions of liquid organic fertilizers (mullein, green fertilizer), but not immediately after planting, but approximately in the second or third year after planting.
The need for mineral fertilizers increases much later, when plants reach fruiting age.
If you are going to plant a garden on poor soils, then you should stock up on several carts of imported fertile soil in advance. Do not use the lower, nutrient-poor layer of soil when digging a hole.
If the planting hole is filled with fertile soil, then there is no need for additional filling with fertilizers.
Planting seedlings
First of all, we plant winter grafted seedlings that were stored in a cold basement or rootstocks dug in before winter.
Carry out an audit: inspect the root system of plants, remove rotten roots to healthy tissue (it light color). Make the cuts in a straight line, without sawing, with a very sharp knife - the smoother the cut, the faster callus forms. If the seedlings have cuts or breaks on thick roots, sprinkle them with crushed coal.
If you have purchased seedlings whose root system is covered with clay mash, you need to wash the roots off it!
To plant, in an area prepared in the fall and filled with nutrient soil, we dig a hole, but not over the entire area where we dug the hole in the fall, but much smaller - the hole should be sufficient to freely accommodate the root system of the seedling, but no more. The depth is such that the root collar of a seedling placed in a hole is at ground level. Do not allow it to go deeper than even 5-7 cm.
The root collar of a seedling is the place where the first roots emerge from the trunk. Not to be confused with the grafting site - it is approximately 10-15 cm above the root collar.
To plant a seedling at the correct depth, use a level - a long stick placed across the hole so that the ends rest on flat surface earth around the pit.
It is better to plant seedlings together, so that one person holds the tree by the trunk, maintaining its even vertical position, and the second person buries it. If the seedling has a lot of roots, when filling it with soil, you need to lightly shake the trunk so that the soil is well distributed into the voids between the roots.
Do not compact the soil around the planting site too hard. Just water the soil; when the soil settles, add more. During the first two weeks, the soil will be covered, and if necessary, you need to hill up again if the root collar is exposed.
After digging in the seedling, you need to form a tree trunk circle or “saucer” around it for watering. About 50-60 cm in diameter, 7-10 cm in height. Be sure to secure the trunk of the seedling - stick a wooden peg into the ground next to the trunk. It is important to sharpen its lower end so that it does not tear the roots of the tree, but easily passes between them. Tie the trunk to the support using jute or a piece of nylon tights. Do not use wire or fishing line for garter!
If you plan to use not a thin peg, but a large pole as a support, you need to sharpen its end and drive the pole in before planting the seedling!
After planting, it is necessary to water the plant abundantly; the earthen circle near the trunk will prevent water from spreading over the area. Watering is necessary in any weather and soil moisture. After watering, the earth becomes heavier, settles and compacts naturally. How much water to pour: a full bucket, but not at once, but in two or three doses.
When planting winter-grafted seedlings, a month after planting you need to remove the film wrap.
If you didn’t have time to prepare the planting holes in the fall
What to do in this case? You can plant cultivated shrubs and trees, but you will have to limit yourself not to wide holes filled with prepared soil, but to small holes the size of the root system of seedlings. But later it will be necessary to cultivate the soil around the plantings, the mechanism of which will depend on the type of soil.
Without preliminary preparation pits plant fruit and berry bushes and trees only on soils with close groundwater. In this case, the hole is dug shallow - just enough to fit a shovel, but nutritious soil is poured not only into the hole, but also on top with a high mound. The mound should be at least 40-50 cm in height and about 100 cm in diameter. In this case, it is necessary to form a watering “saucer”.
If the groundwater runs deep and there is no need to lift the seedling onto a mound, then without prior preparation you can carry out the technique of planting seedlings followed by mulching. A shallow hole is dug, on the bayonet of a shovel. Then, around a seedling with a diameter of one and a half meters, 3 buckets of old humus are distributed in an even layer, and digging is carried out. We water the soil and mulch it with a thick layer of straw or peat (height 5-7 cm).
In any case, remember that the root collar of the seedling cannot be buried, and young plants require abundant watering.
Planting fruit trees is not as simple a process as it might seem at first glance. Here you need to buy seedlings correctly, prepare the place, and carry out all the necessary care measures. To ensure that the trees you plant not only take root, but also give an excellent result in the form of a rich harvest, study the tips we give.
To avoid problems with growing fruit trees in the future, it is better to purchase seedlings in specialized stores or nurseries. There is one important advice– try to choose seedlings of those varieties that are suitable for growing in your region. Because when purchasing “overseas varieties,” there is a high probability that such plants simply will not take root in your region.
Be careful when purchasing seedlings and pay attention to the following indicators.
Groundwater
If we are talking about vigorous seedlings that have a long root system, then the depth of groundwater should be at least three meters. For semi-dwarf varieties, this figure should be no more than 2.5 m, and when planting dwarf fruit trees, the depth should be one and a half meters.
Soil quality
You should not select a place for planting apple trees at random, because of which the trees may develop poorly, begin to bear fruit late, or may not take root at all. When choosing a location, you should focus on the requirements of the crops. For example, if you are going to plant apple trees, then for these plants you should choose forest soils, black soil, and sod-podzolic soil.
Pears grow best on sandy loam, loam or slightly podzolized soils. Cherries prefer light loams.
Illumination
For normal tree development and high-quality fruiting of fruit trees, they need quality lighting– the more sun, the larger the fruits will be. That is why it is best to plant seedlings on the south side of the site, choosing a place protected from the wind.
Square
The site must be selected after you have counted the number of seedlings. After this, determine that there should be a distance of about 7 m between the trees. If the trees grow denser, this will lead to the fact that they will begin to grow not in width, but at the top and, when intertwined with branches, they will begin to shade each other.
Age of seedlings
It is best to choose seedlings that are not yet two years old. To determine age, you just need to study planting material– the seedlings that suit us will have no branches on the trunk. Also, you should not choose trees that have branches, the roots are overdried, or there are growths on the stems - most likely, such seedlings are sick or old.
Own-rooted or grafted seedlings
It is best to purchase grafted seedlings, especially if you are planting pear or apple trees. To understand whether the seedling has been grafted, pay attention to the trunk - it should be slightly curved.
Choosing a time to plant trees
Disembarkation times depend on biological features plants, climatic conditions. Pears and apples, for example, can be planted either in early spring or early autumn. But let's look at each season in more detail.
Spring
Spring planting begins immediately after the ice melts and should be completed two weeks before the “eyes” appear. When planting fruit trees such as pears, apples and cherries, it is necessary to choose natural fertilizer - manure, which is applied directly to the hole before planting. After a couple of weeks, when the plant has taken root, add growth activators to the soil.
Autumn
Fruit trees planted in the fall will take root almost 100%. This is due to the conditions: loose and moist soil, fairly warm weather - this is what contributes to the survival of plants. The main thing is not to forget to insulate the plants so that frost does not destroy the young plantings.
Winter
Work can be carried out in winter only if we are talking about large plants, but young seedlings are not planted in frozen soil - they will die.
Summer
Gardeners strictly do not recommend carrying out such work in the summer, since due to the heat, the root system of plants will lack moisture, which is why the survival rate drops sharply. Thus, trees planted during this period will simply die.
Planting fruit trees in spring - step-by-step instructions
In order for the trees to take root, grow and produce a harvest in a couple of years, you should carefully study our advice and plant according to a given pattern.
Land preparation
Clear the selected area of weeds using mechanical control methods or the use of herbicides. Be sure to till the soil deeply and add organic matter and mineral supplements (this process is called cultivation).
Well preparation
If you decide to plant in the spring, then the holes for the seedlings should be prepared in the fall. To do this, make a square hole under each seedling with a depth of about 60 cm and a diameter of up to 1.5 m. Place old leaves, plant tops, pruned branches in the resulting pit, cover it all with earth on top and leave until spring.
If you are going to carry out work in the fall, then prepare the holes about a month and a half in advance. Make holes for planting, put a layer on the bottom broken bricks or river sand, cover it all with a layer of rotted manure or peat on top, add mineral fertilizers. All that remains is to cover the hole with a layer of earth and humus up to 10 cm thick.
Important point: some gardeners smooth the walls of the pit with a shovel, compacting the soil. Doing this is strictly not recommended, because it impairs oxygen access to the roots and limits the appearance of new roots.
Planting seedlings
After the soil has settled a little, drive a wooden stake into the center of the hole - due to the stable support, the seedlings will not sway in the wind, which means that there will be no voids between the soil and the roots that are destructive for the trees.
A day before planting, remove broken branches from the seedlings and trim the roots a little using pruning shears.
An important rule when planting: the root collar of the seedling should be located above ground level. If it is buried, this will lead to rotting of the bark and death of the plant.
To determine the root collar, just look at the seedling - this is the border on the bark where it “flows” from green to brown. Also, when planting a seedling, carefully straighten the roots and sprinkle them with soil. Remember to shake the plant a little so that the voids between the roots are filled with soil. This will prevent them from drying out.
After planting, lightly compact the soil and water with a small stream of water - about 3 liters of liquid for each tree. After the soil has settled a little, water again.
The first couple of years after planting, you need to look after the trees and perform simple care measures. So, you cannot do without moderate but regular watering, fertilizing, loosening the soil and weed control. For example, in hot weather, after each watering or rain, the soil around the seedling needs to be loosened.
Be sure to mulch the soil around the trunk. It is best to use grass clippings from cereals, which will perform the following functions:
- Aeration of the root system of fruit trees.
- Weed protection.
- Protection against freezing of the ground and roots.
- Providing organic matter.
- Prevention of the appearance of an earthen crust.
However, it should be remembered that there is no need to mulch soils that are too wet - this can lead to rotting of the roots. In autumn, trees need to be insulated, protecting them from frost, for which you can use either coniferous “feet” or burlap. The first option also scares away rabbits and hares, who would not mind eating the young bark.
Pear, apple and cherry are the most popular fruit trees in Russia. Let's look at the basic rules for planting them on the site.
Apple tree
If you choose early-fruiting varieties, they usually bloom in the first year after planting, but the trees will not be fully developed, and therefore will not be able to form a full-fledged harvest by autumn.
For good survival, it is better to cut off the buds of trees before they bloom.
Among the most adapted varieties of these fruit trees are the following:
- Antonovka.
- Brown new.
- Oval.
- Candy.
Pear
Most varieties of pears are quite undemanding in terms of soil composition, but these trees will still take root better and produce good yields when planted in fertile soil. Also remember that young pear seedlings can die from drought, so in the first two years after planting they need to be watered abundantly.
Among the most popular varieties of pears are:
- Lada.
- Nectar.
- Allegro.
Cherry
When planting cherries, you need to carefully choose the location, since the quality and quantity of its fruiting depends on this. Remember also that the root system of this tree is located close to the soil surface and is therefore very sensitive to drought. For the same reason, loosening the soil should be done as carefully as possible.
It is best to choose the following varieties of cherries:
- Shubinka.
- Robin.
- Generous.
In contact with
Summer residents and gardeners take a responsible approach to the issue of choosing and planting fruit trees. This position is completely justified, because planting a tree is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. The quality of the future harvest directly depends on this. Let's figure out when to plant trees - in spring or autumn, and consider the advantages and disadvantages of spring planting.
Purchasing seedlings
The first thing you need to start with is to buy young tree for landing. Eat different variants where this can be done. It would be best if you go to make a purchase at a specialized store or nursery.
In addition, there are many offers to buy seedlings from hand at spontaneous markets, and also, not so long ago, online stores began to provide a huge selection of planting material. The last two options do not give any results because there is a risk of ending up with something that is not what you expect.
Correct choice of planting material
So, you went to a garden exhibition or a specialized nursery to select seedlings. How not to get confused among all the variety, how to choose high-quality planting material?
First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence of clothespins. Any fruit tree must be grafted, otherwise it is simply wild growth, of no value and without varietal characteristics.
Next you need to inspect the roots. It is desirable that they grow evenly on all sides of the trunk and do not have visible damage or lump-like growths. The bark should not be limp, dry or wrinkled. Before selling seedlings, all their leaves are removed to avoid dehydration of the tree.
Anything, even annual plant prepared for planting must have a height of at least one meter. Make sure that the trunk of the seedling is evenly developed.
Now you have learned to choose and are ready to start planting, but the question arises: when? Planting fruit trees in spring or autumn is entirely your choice. The optimal landing time can be determined by many factors.
When to plant trees, spring or autumn?
The very first rule is that trees should be planted when they are dormant. This happens in the fall, after stopping active growth, and in early spring - until sap flow begins. But another question immediately arises. When to plant trees in the spring, and when is it better to give preference to autumn plantings?
Firstly, it depends on the climatic conditions of your region. In the northern regions and the middle zone, planting seedlings in the spring gives top scores. In autumn, young trees here can freeze slightly. In places with sufficient snow cover, seedlings planted in autumn are protected from freezing by a layer of snow.
Secondly, the optimal planting time can be determined by the type of seedlings. Some crops tolerate spring planting better, while others, on the contrary, tolerate autumn planting.
What are the best trees to plant in spring?
Many people are interested in what trees are planted in the spring? The answer is simple. Almost all fruit trees can be planted in spring. There are cases when spring planting is the only possible variant. Some winter-hardy pears, plums, and apple trees are doomed to death if planted in the fall. It is also advisable to plant sea buckthorn, cherry and apricot in the spring.
When to plant trees in spring
We should start with the fact that we need to prepare for spring in the fall. You can select a location in advance, dig a pit, and enrich the soil with natural fertilizers. An important point is not to miss the time when it is best to plant trees in the spring.
Beginning gardeners begin planting young shoots with the onset of warm days, but they make a huge mistake. In order for young plants to take root, they should be rooted in a new place as soon as the snow melts, but keep in mind that the ground should not be frozen by this time.
Plants should be stopped at least a week before buds appear. It is difficult to give specific numbers, as it depends on specific weather conditions.
Benefits of spring tree planting
- By planting a tree in the spring, you will have a harvest a year earlier than if planted in the fall.
- During the winter you can properly prepare for spring work, draw up a schedule and work plan.
- Some gardening work can be carried out in autumn or winter, for example, preparing fertilizers, forming pits for planting.
- When planting in spring, you can almost immediately see which of the seedlings have taken root and are growing normally, and which ones require additional care or replanting.
Why is spring planting problematic?
- In the spring, there is less variety on the planting material market than in the fall.
- After planting, you will need to water the young seedling more often, protecting it from spring droughts.
- It is necessary to clearly select the time when to plant trees in the spring, so that the tree has time to take root before the sap begins to flow.
Features of spring gardening
Inexperienced amateur gardeners believe that the method of planting a tree is the same at any time. In fact, each season has its own characteristics. Let's find out how to properly plant trees in spring.
Trees plant before the weather warms up, so Special attention needs to be turned onto the ground. The soil may not be as soft and pliable as in the fall. To strengthen the adhesion of the roots to the soil, you need to additionally dip them in a clay mash. When planting, natural fertilizers, such as manure, are used.
The first time after planting, the plants require careful care. Make sure that the soil does not dry out, try to hide young shoots from overly active sunlight.
In the spring, 5-7 days after planting, you can use growth activators - nitrogen fertilizers that promote the appearance of young shoots in the plant.
- In order not to miss the spring planting deadlines, everyone preparatory work should be carried out in the fall.
- When choosing a planting site, consider the groundwater level. It shouldn't be too high. It is also not recommended to plant trees in areas where meltwater accumulates.
- Be sure to pay attention to the fertility of the soil. Use fertilizer if the soil in the place where you are going to plant the tree is poor.
- Tall seedlings must be planted with support. It will protect fragile stems from gusty spring winds.
And most importantly, you need to remember: a tree is a living being and requires an appropriate attitude towards itself. Young seedlings, like small children, need constant attention and care; if they receive what they need, they will certainly please you with a good harvest.
Every gardener wants to see his garden healthy, beautiful and abundantly fruitful. The key to good growth lush flowering and obtaining a harvest is the correct planting of fruit trees in the spring.
Unfortunately, the owner of the site does not always take this procedure responsibly, choosing the first available place for the tree, somehow organizing the planting hole, or placing seedlings too often, without taking into account their growth. Wait for fruiting soon and good harvest in this case it is not necessary. How and when to plant fruit tree seedlings in spring? Are there any secrets that allow plants to take root and begin to grow faster?
Timing for planting fruit tree seedlings in spring
First of all, it is worth clarifying the timing of planting. The literature often states that autumn planting is preferable for tree seedlings, but it must be taken into account that this recommendation applies to the southern regions.
In the conditions of a long, warm autumn, winter-hardy trees and shrubs have time to acclimatize and take root, tolerating the winter quite well and starting to grow in early spring. The further north it is located garden plot, the greater the risk of the tree freezing.
Therefore, in the northern regions, planting fruit trees is often done in the spring. At the same time, it is possible to save seedlings of even the most heat-loving crops, and also to successfully transfer plants with an open root system into the ground. True, this landing has one peculiarity. It should be carried out as early as possible so that the seedling meets the beginning of the growing season already in the soil on permanent place residence. Still “dormant” trees are not sensitive to the active sun and possible frosts.
When should you plant fruit trees and shrubs that already have foliage in the spring? Indeed, today at spring sales you can buy planting material with open buds and even leaves. Such bushes and trees cannot wait. But the best way to plant them is:
- upon the onset of stable heat, when there is no danger of frostbite of the shoots and root system, especially at night;
- in cloudy weather, when there is less risk of sunburn of buds and foliage not accustomed to direct sun.
The specific timing of planting fruit trees and shrub seedlings in the spring depends on the climatic and weather characteristics of the region, the composition of the soil and the location of the site. As a rule, in the lowlands, snowmelt is less active, the soil dries out worse, which delays planting.
Whatever the time for planting fruit tree seedlings in the spring, preparations for work begin in the fall, choosing a place for the plants in advance and preparing planting holes.
Scheme of planting fruit trees and shrubs on the site
Looking for a place for the future orchard, you need to remember that for plants it is extremely important not only soil fertility and, but also lighting. For young plants, the site is selected in such a way that the seedlings are exposed to light for at least half a day. At the same time, for fragile trees it is necessary to provide protection from cold winds.
For speedy acclimatization, it is recommended to plant fruit plants the same way they grew up in the nursery. The orientation of a tree to the cardinal points can be determined starting from the age of two by the length of the side shoots. On the south side they are generally better developed than on the north.
But how to plant a fruit tree seedling in the spring if a three-year-old or older plant with an asymmetrical crown was brought from the nursery? In this case, it is more useful to unfold it so that the short branches face south. In just a couple of years, taking into account corrective pruning, the crown will become uniform and correct.
When developing a new plot, novice summer residents often make a serious mistake. When planting fruit trees in the spring, they do not take into account that the height, width of the crown and features of agricultural technology of the planted species can be very different. The young garden looks well-groomed and grows amicably, but after a few years it turns out that the large pear tree has completely obscured the low-growing ones, and berry bushes are not visible under the crowns of the cherry trees.
Even at the planning stage, the exact layout of the trees is determined. The health of the plants and the harvest they bring will subsequently depend on this plan.
How to determine the minimum distance between fruit trees when planting?
When measuring the distance between seedlings, they are guided by the total height of neighboring adult trees. For example, a fruiting cherry reaches three meters in height, which means there must be at least six meters between neighboring trees of the same species and variety. This will create all the conditions for development, resulting in:
- the crowns of grown trees will not overlap or shade each other;
- nothing will interfere with pollination flowering trees, growth and fruit filling;
- It is much easier to care for the crop and harvest.
In addition, with such planting of fruit trees and shrubs on the site, the risk of infection of the garden with fungal infections and insect damage is seriously reduced.
How to plant fruit tree seedlings in spring?
It is not enough to purchase high-quality planting material. Any seedling can die if the preparation for planting it was carried out “carelessly”. The planting of fruit trees scheduled for spring assumes that the holes for them will be laid in the fall. If this cannot be done, and the summer resident takes up the shovel in the spring, then at least two weeks should pass from the moment of laying the hole until the roots of the tree fall into it.
Two- or three-year-old pears, plums and other stone fruits differ little in size, so a hole of at least 80 cm in diameter and the same depth is dug under them. When you are planting a plant with a closed root system, it is convenient to focus on the size of the container, making the hole 15–20 cm wider and deeper.
To tie up a new garden resident, a strong support is immediately driven into the bottom of the hole, which will help the plant maintain verticality in the coming years.
Oddly enough, caring for a fruit tree begins not after planting, but before it with the application of fertilizers and preparing the soil into which the seedling will fall. In the fall, you can add fresh manure to the hole, which will rot over the winter and will not have a burning effect on the roots of the tree. If the soil on the site is too acidic, it is limed or mixed with dolomite flour. If necessary, excessively dense soil is mixed with sand, and fertile black soil is added to the sandy loam.
H To ensure that during planting in the spring, the fruit tree seedling does not come into contact with applied manure or granular products, a layer of fertilizer is sprinkled with a small amount of fertile soil.
How are fruit trees planted in prepared holes in the spring? Step by step execution:
- The roots of plants with an open root system are straightened and, if necessary, soaked overnight to restore tone to wilted areas.
- The seedling is placed on a cone of fertile soil so that the roots are freely located in the hole, and the root collar is five centimeters above the soil surface. You can check the correct installation of the seedling using a shovel.
- The tree is covered with soil, avoiding any voids between the roots and under the trunk.
Planting a seedling with a closed root system is much easier. You just need to place the moistened earthen lump in the hole, check the level of the neck and sprinkle the voids with substrate. At the end of the procedure, young trees and shrubs must be watered.
A video about planting fruit tree seedlings in the spring will help you understand the intricacies of the process on your own. Attentive attention to the needs of the plant and careful preparation will ensure that the theoretical knowledge gained will be useful in practice.
Rules for planting seedlings - video
