In this article I will try to consider the main methods of connecting furniture parts, providing them with installation tips with diagrams and comments whenever possible.
So, the simplest mounting option, metal or plastic parts(metaboxes, coat hooks, mounting corners) to laminated chipboards, the laminated chipboard sheets themselves between each other and the sheets to the walls - this self-tapping screws. They can be with countersunk heads (in Fig. No. 1, 3,4,5,6), with press washers (in Fig. No. 2) and dowel-nails (in Fig. No. 7), which are used for driving /screwing into walls.
Screws are marked with two meanings. The first number indicates the thread diameter, the second the overall length. Naturally than larger diameter and length, the greater the load the self-tapping screw will withstand.
pros
- Ease of use,
- Cheapness
Minuses:
- Relatively small load to withstand.
For tightening, a screwdriver/screwdriver with a corresponding bit is used - usually a cross-shaped one. To avoid cracking of the workpieces, it is necessary to pre-drill mounting holes- with a drill smaller in diameter than the thread size. It is necessary to drill a recess under the cap. I usually do this with a screwdriver bat.
A reinforced version of self-tapping screws, which also looks somewhat more aesthetically pleasing, are confirmations(or European screws). They differ from ordinary screws in their greater thickness, thread pitch, cylindrical hexagon head and blunt end.
There are two main sizes of confirmations used: 50 mm and 75 mm. The former are more common and convenient for tightening 16 mm laminated chipboards, while the latter are better used for working with 26 mm laminated chipboards.
pros
- together,
- Significant holding force
Minuses
- Through fastening, which means a cap visible on the surface (can be covered with decorative plugs),
- Instability to assembly and disassembly (the connection after just 3-4 cycles of assembly and disassembly practically loses its fixing properties).
This fastening method allows you to repeatedly assemble and disassemble furniture, especially when using a footer, without losing the strength of the connection.
This advantage is more than compensated by the complexity of manufacturing. For installation you will need: cylindrical drills (for wood or metal) with a diameter of 5 and 8 mm (5 mm must be with a stop), with a diameter of 15 mm. It is advisable to use a furniture jig for precise assembly.
pros
- Stealth (no visible fasteners are visible from the outside)
- Possibility of tightening parts together
Minuses
- Inside the product, a fairly large eccentric remains visible - 15 mm, which needs to be hidden (with a plastic or self-adhesive plug)
- Complexity (3 parts, 3 holes, special tools)
Eccentric coupler VB35 MD/16 differs from the minifix in the structure of the eccentric and the short rod. It is mainly used for hanging shelves, although also for various kinds lids and table tops are also perfect. There are two options for rods: short (for hanging shelves on one side) and long (if the shelves should be on both sides vertical stand on the same level. In this case, the rod passes through the parts, protruding symmetrically on both sides). 
The eccentric itself in this version is closed in a decorative casing (metal or plastic), the color of which can be matched to the color of the chipboard. It looks quite original, and there is no need to hide it. The eccentric is screwed in from below; if necessary, you can drill an additional hole on top of the shelf, which will then have to be closed with a plug.
pros
- Invisible from the outside
- There is no need to hide the eccentric inside the finished product
- Possibility of tightening parts
- Easy to make connections (only 2 holes, instead of three in the minifix)
- Easy installation (the shelf is simply thrown on top and then fixed)
- Possibility of repeated assembly and disassembly
Minuses
- Expensive (price about 15 rubles per set)
- The need for specialized tools (Forstner cutter)
- The attachment force is less than that of confirmatories
Furniture screed used mainly for pulling together several cabinets into a single block (for example, in kitchens). Represents threaded connection with two heads for Phillips and flat screwdrivers.
To use, you only need a drill of a suitable diameter and a screwdriver.
pros
- Significant holding force
- Easy to install
- Possibility of tightening parts
Minuses
- Narrow specialization (the ability to tighten only parallel parts),
- Visible heads
It consists of as many as five parts: the tie itself, two footers and two bolts with a countersunk head. To work, you will need a 10 mm drill, a screwdriver, a hexagon (metal fittings - screw it in) or a hammer (plastic fittings - hammer it in).
pros
- Significant connection strength
- Unpretentiousness to marking holes
- Easy to manufacture (2 holes)
- Possibility of repeated assembly and disassembly
- Invisibility from outside the product
- Possibility of tightening parts
Minuses
Plastic corners simple and cheap way connection of parts. It differs from the previous one in being more aesthetically pleasing and easier to install (no need to drill anything out at all - it is attached with simple self-tapping screws, but is much less durable. Currently produced a large number of colors - you can match the color of the chipboard so that the element does not catch the eye.
Their variety is metal corners with plastic cover have the same advantages and disadvantages with the exception of slightly higher connection strength (of course, they do not reach the level of an aluminum tie, but they are no longer a plastic corner).
Minuses
- Dimensions (interferes with the installation of other fittings),
- Poor connection strength
- Inability to tighten parts
- Impossibility of repeated assembly and disassembly,
In conclusion, I will say that to choose furniture fittings that are optimal in your case, you should remember a few simple rules:
The fittings must withstand the expected load with some margin;
Fixing elements on finished product should be as invisible as possible;
Fastener elements accessible to the eye must be covered with decorative plugs (plastic or self-adhesive);
Consider the possibility of subsequent assembly and disassembly of the product.
FOR A BEGINNER FURNITURE MAKER, I WOULD ADVISE USING CONFIRMATIONS AND SCREWS, SOMETIMES SUPPLEMENTING THEM WITH DIFFERENT CORNERS. IN MOST CASES THIS IS ENOUGH FOR A STRONG AND NOT VERY VISIBLE CONNECTION.
Joining techniques, that is, methods for creating strong connections between individual wooden parts when making furniture, are essential to the successful design of built-ins. Wall manufacturers use dozens of joining methods, but to make furniture designs you'll only need a few of the simple joints shown here.
The choice of connection method depends on how the built-in furniture structure will be used and how it should look. For example, built-in furniture designs for displaying items such as decorative glassware can be made with simple connections end-to-end, and for heavy objects (for example, a multi-volume encyclopedia) - with strong groove joints, reinforced with screws. If important appearance furniture, choose a hidden connection method. For example, a built-in design with tongue-and-groove joints is more similar to a factory design than a design with butt-and-batten joints.
Lap joint
When making many built-in furniture designs, you will need to glue and tighten several joints at the same time. For this job you need a range of different clamps. Use wood glue to reinforce all joints. Connections made with nails and screws alone will weaken over time.
Types of furniture connections
Method of gluing furniture
Pull the pieces together to hold them securely at the joints. After measuring the diagonals, make sure that the corners are right. Their straightness is evidenced by the equal length of the diagonals. If the lengths are different, adjust the position of the parts. |
Secure the connections by drilling pilot holes in them. Drive in screws or finishing nails. For the screws, drill out the base holes so that the screw heads are countersunk. Deepen the nails using a punch. |
Close the counterbore holes with plugs from hard rocks wood, coated with glue, and cover the nail holes with wood putty. When the glue or putty has dried, sand the surface smoothly and then varnish. |
How to make a dovetail joint
1 Measure the profile required length, then set the miter saw blade at a 45° angle.
2 Clamp the profile in the miter saw, then cut to size. Apply a thin, even layer of wood glue to the beveled edges of the profile.
3 Place the profile sections on wooden structure so that their beveled ends are pressed tightly against each other. Drill through base holes in the profile and in the product and attach the profile with finishing nails.
How to make a butt joint
1 Use a frame square to outline the joint locations on the piece of wood. If desired, attach strips along the bottom edge of each joint for reinforcement.
2 Apply wood glue to the surfaces to be joined. When doing this, use a cardboard stick or strip, which ensures even application of the glue.
3 Connect the two pieces to reinforce each joint by drilling pilot holes and driving a finishing nail or screw into the joints. (The guide line on the piece will help align the nails.)
How to make a groove connection
1 Hold the pieces together and “mark the groove.” Insert a straight cutter into the cutter and set it to the desired depth. Typically the groove depth is half the thickness wooden part. For example, with a thickness of 3/4 inch, the depth of the grooves should be 1 cm.
2 Clamp a rectangular ruler on each side where the grooves will be, so that the edges of the rulers are against the marked lines. Place a piece of scrap wood the same thickness as the workpiece between the rulers to measure the gap.
3 Cut the groove with two passes of the router bit. On the first pass, press the base of the cutter firmly against one of the straight racks, then make a second pass in the opposite direction, pressing the base of the cutter against the second rack.
4 Apply wood glue to the surfaces to be joined and tighten the parts together. Drill pilot holes and drive in screws or finishing nails 7.5-10cm apart. For screws, countersink the base holes.
How to make a blind joint on tenons using a template
1 Arrange the parts as you want them to look when connected. Label them A and B as shown above. Turn the pieces over as shown below. In this case, the surfaces are connected and look at you. Using a template and an additional clamp, tighten the pieces together so that the ends are in line.
2 Insert the brush bit into the drill. If you are tenoning a 3/4" thick board, use a 3/8" drill bit.
To ensure you drill the holes to the correct depth, install a stopper.
3 Drill tenon holes in both pieces through the template hole. For a 3/4" thick piece, the holes in piece A should be 1.3cm deep and the holes in piece B should be 3cm deep. Move the template and drill new holes 7.5-10cm apart.
4 Check for proper connection by inserting 1 1/2-inch long knurled tenons into piece A, then tapping wooden hammer for part B, install it in its place. If the parts do not fit tightly, deepen the tenon holes in part B.
5 Separate the parts and remove the tenons, apply glue to the tenons and insert them into the holes of part B. Apply glue to the surfaces to be joined. Attention. When joining melamine-coated particle boards, apply glue only to the tenons.
6 Assemble the parts by tapping them with a wooden hammer until the joint “sits” tightly. Use a damp cloth to remove excess glue.
How to Make Blind Face Joints Using a Tenon Center Marker
1 Mark a joining line on the front side of the workpiece. Using a template, make holes for the tenons on the edge of the other part, then insert a tenon center marker into each hole.
2 Place the parts edge-on flat surface, then press them together so that the tips of the markers leave marks on the wood.
3 Drill holes at the marked points using a brush drill. For 3/4" thick wood, the holes should be 1/2" deep. Use a square drill guide with a drill stopper. Assemble the part with the spikes.
How to make through tenon joints
1 Pull and glue the parts together, draw an auxiliary line. Using a brush drill bit with a stopper at a depth of 4.3 cm, drill tenon holes in one piece that extend into the adjacent piece. Place the holes at a distance of 7.5-10 cm from each other.
2 Apply wood glue to 1 1/2-inch grooved tenons then insert the tenons into the holes. Using a punch, drive the spikes in until they stop.
3 Cover the tenon holes with hardwood plugs coated with glue. Let the glue dry, then sand the surface with an emery block.
Modern furniture fittings offers a wide range of furniture fasteners, each of which has its own area of application depending on the type of connection and materials used. In this article we will examine in detail the main furniture fasteners that are used to make furniture in professional workshops and by home craftsmen.
Furniture dowel
This type of fastening is rarely used on its own in the modern furniture industry. It is mainly used only to impart rigidity in conjunction with eccentric couplers.
Its main function in most cases of furniture construction is to prevent the panels from moving relative to each other and giving additional rigidity to the fastening.
Usually used in conjunction with an eccentric coupler. It is made from hard rocks natural wood, It has cylindrical shape. This is a very simple and cheap part that has been used in wooden joints since time immemorial.
Craftsmen and carpenters who work with wood use furniture dowels as the main fastener. In this case, the furniture parts are connected to dowels, which are glued to the parts using PVA glue. In this case, using any other screeds together with PVA no longer makes sense.
Screw tie
The screw coupler consists of a screw and a barrel. This kit is used to attach the end of one panel to the face of another. For example, for attaching a shelf to a side panel or a headboard to the drawers.
This is a very strong fastening due to the large tightening stroke. The only drawback of this fastener is that the screw head is visible from the front of the panel.
You can, of course, close them with special plugs, but this is also not a panacea. The plugs on the outer panel of the cabinet do not look aesthetically pleasing.
Installation of this type of fastener requires skills. Beginners may encounter such a problem as inaccurate alignment of the barrel holes with the hole in the end of the shelf, and it is not so easy to remove the unwanted barrel from its nest.
But the inconvenience during assembly and aesthetic errors are more than compensated for by the reliability and durability of the connection.
Conical coupler
The conical tie is often used for fastening thick chipboard panels (25 mm, 38 mm) and assembling frame facades on tie bars.
One of its advantages is the absence of visible caps on the front side of the panels. Unlike the screw in a screw tie, the rod used in a tapered tie is screwed into the panel. The screed itself has 2 holes. One is for the rod, which is screwed into the panel layer. The second is for the conical tie screw. The disadvantage of this type of fastener is the small tightening stroke. Under heavy loads, the holes for the rod screw may become loose over time. Then the screed will simply stop working!
Furniture corner
Quite a simple type of fastener. Easy to install. Does not require any additional holes in the panels for its installation. There are both metal and plastic options.
Enough durable look fastenings The disadvantages are that it is visible and does not look aesthetically pleasing. But this is the main type of fastening in built-in furniture.
Euroscrew
This fastener is most often used for assembling modules kitchen furniture and in economy class furniture. Just like with a screw tie, Euroscrew heads or plugs are visible on the front side of the side panel of the cabinet.
It is screwed into the end of the shelf with pre-installed drilled hole. This screed also belongs to the economy class. To install it, 2 holes are drilled - into the end of the shelf and into the face of the part. They are attached perpendicular to each other. The most commonly used euroscrews are 7 mm in diameter and 50 or 70 mm in length.
This screed has 2 significant drawbacks:
Firstly, the outer side of the cabinet, if there are many shelves behind it, as a rule, is all “disfigured” with caps or Euroscrew plugs. Therefore, these fasteners are used in economy furniture. In kitchens, this drawback is hidden thanks to the cabinets standing in a row.
Secondly, furniture assembled with euroscrews cannot be disassembled and reassembled more than 3 times, since screwing the tie into the end of the shelf destroys its internal structure.
Eccentric coupler
One of the most popular types of fasteners today. All quality furniture It is assembled precisely on an eccentric coupler (minifix). Its operating principle is as follows: an eccentric rod is screwed into the face of the part to which another panel will be attached at the end, into which the eccentric itself is screwed through the end of the other shelf, and then the eccentric turns the rod into itself.
An eccentric tie is always used in conjunction with a wooden dowel, which was described earlier. The dowel provides additional rigidity to the assembly and prevents the fixed panels from moving relative to each other.
Furniture assembled on this screed can be disassembled and assembled an unlimited number of times! There are different diameters of the eccentric itself: 25, 15, 12 mm. More common is an eccentric with a diameter of 15 mm.
Since the eccentric itself is visible on the side panel, plugs are provided for it to match the color of the panel. One of the disadvantages is the weakening of the tie in the event of spontaneous rotation of the eccentric.
To avoid this, some hardware manufacturers have provided notches directed in the opposite direction from its rotation during installation, which enhances adhesion.
Types of eccentric couplers
As practice shows, furniture is assembled and disassembled with great difficulty if all the fasteners in it are metal ties, described above. Let’s say that in order to remove one shelf, you practically need to disassemble half the cabinet. For horizontal parts (shelves), it is more convenient to use eccentrics, which allow you to place horizontal parts in an already assembled furniture box. Their operating principle is the same as that of the previously described eccentric coupler. The only difference is that the eccentric, located in the shelf, fits onto the rod screwed into the face of the sidewall from above and there is no need to disassemble half the cabinet for this. In some factories, this type of fastener is called a shelf holder, since it is intended only for horizontal parts. Horizontal shelves assembled using these ties further tighten the joint, which increases the rigidity of the entire furniture frame.
There is a wide variety of eccentric-type furniture fasteners on the furniture market, but the principle of operation is the same for all. Knowing the operating principle of one type of eccentric coupler, you can easily understand the others.
Why did I bring up the topic (chipboard)? The one who does DIY furniture, wants not only to produce a high-quality product, but also to make it inexpensive. And by gluing two parts into one, you can achieve required thickness details. At the same time, you can save on the cost of the stove.
Let me give you an example: there is a product that is mainly made of 16mm laminated chipboard, but several parts are 30mm thick. When ordering the cutting of such a product, we pay the cost of the entire slab, even if only a few parts are cut from it. In this case it is very uneconomical.
To save on the cost of material, you can make a part 30mm thick from 16mm laminated chipboard, gluing them together to double thickness. Please note that the part will be 32 mm, this must be taken into account. Although in some cases (if it is the lid of a chest of drawers or a cabinet), 2 mm does not play a special role.
FIRST METHOD
Task: get a 600x300 piece with a thickness of 32 or 36 mm, edged with a wide edge, by gluing two pieces of laminated chipboard (16+16 or 18+18, etc. - the principle is the same).
For this it is necessary to cutting laminated chipboard 16mm include two identical parts (!) 620x320(i.e. increase the part from the required size by 10 cm around the perimeter).
If the thickened panel will be visible from both sides, we connect plane to plane using dowels and contact glue. The glue is applied with a spatula in an even, thin layer on both parts. This must be done quickly, because contact glue dries quickly. We clamp it with clamps or under a press for at least 12 hours (I usually glue it today - tomorrow I’ll work on the part further).
If the thickened panel will only be visible from one side, you can, after gluing the parts (without dowels), fasten them with 4x30 screws along the edges and in the center. In this case, clamps or a press are not needed.
After gluing, “fit” the part into size 600x300, i.e., trim the edges around the perimeter. Do not forget to take into account the thickness of the edge in the dimensions of the part. The part must be cut on a machine, maintaining a clean cut and an angle of 90 degrees. Now you can trim it. Ready.
SECOND METHOD. Easier than the first one.
Task: get a 600x300 part with a thickness of 32 or 36 mm by gluing two edged chipboard parts (16+16 or 18+18, etc. - the principle is the same).
To do this, it is necessary to include two identical parts in the cutting of 16mm chipboard 600x300(!). Close them up.
Glue as in the previous method. Just need to align the edges more carefully! But the result is a little different - the part comes out thicker, but “double”.
Both methods of gluing chipboard are used in the project.
THIRD METHOD.
Task: obtain a 600x300 part with a thickness of 32 or 36 mm, using chipboard embedded parts of the appropriate thickness.
We include one part in the cutting 620x320(!) and mortgages - in this case 620x60- 2 pieces and 200x60- 2-3 pieces. The principle is to make mortgages around the perimeter and above the pillars, onto which the finished part will be attached.
We glue the part and the embeds with contact glue and duplicate them with 4x30 screws. After complete drying, we “drive” it into size 600x300. And we edge the end.
In the case of a table top, mortgages are made around the perimeter and in the places where the legs will be attached, plus the bottom side is covered with 3mm fiberboard. We also glue fiberboard using contact adhesive and under a press. After complete drying, we “drive” it into the required size and edge the end. The result is a part with a thickness of 35 mm. Lightweight table top.
That's all I wanted to tell you. If you know other methods of gluing laminated chipboard, please share in the comments.
There are a myriad of joints you can use to join wood pieces together. The names and classifications of joinery and carpentry joints, as a rule, vary significantly depending on the country, region and even school of woodworking. The skill lies in the precision of execution to ensure a properly functioning connection that can withstand the loads intended for it.
Initial information
Connection categories
All connections (in carpentry they are called ties) wooden parts according to their area of application can be divided into three categories (foreign version of the classification):
- box;
- frame (frame);
- for joining/merging.
Box connections are used, for example, in the manufacture drawers and arrangement of cabinets, frames are used in window frames and doors, and joining/merging is used to obtain parts of increased width/length.
Many connections can be used in different categories, for example, butt connections are used in all three categories.
Preparation of material
Even planed lumber may need some preparation.
- Cut the material with a margin of width and thickness for further planing. Don't cut the length yet.
- Choose the best quality surface - the front side. Plane it along its entire length. Check with a straight edge.
After final alignment, make a mark for the front side with a pencil. - Plane the front - clean - edge. Check with a straight edge and a square against the front side. Use planing to smooth out any warping. Mark the clean edge.
- Using a thicknesser, mark the required thickness along all edges of the part contour. Plan to this risk. Check with a straight edge.
- Repeat for width.
- Now mark the length and the actual connections. Mark from the front side to the clean edge.
Marking lumber
Be careful when marking lumber. Make sufficient allowances for the width of cuts, planing thickness and connections.
Take all readings from the front side and the clean edge, on which place the appropriate marks. In frame and cabinet designs, these marks should face inward to improve manufacturing accuracy. To make sorting and assembling easier, number the parts on the front side as they are manufactured, to indicate, for example, that side 1 connects to end 1.
When marking identical parts, carefully align them and make markings on all workpieces at once. This will ensure the markup is identical. When marking profile elements, keep in mind that there may be “right” and “left” parts.
Butt joints
These are the simplest of carpentry joints. They can fall into all three categories of compounds.
Assembly
The butt joint can be strengthened with nails driven in at an angle. Drive the nails in randomly.
Trim the ends of the two pieces evenly and connect them. Secure with nails or screws. Before this, you can apply glue to the parts to strengthen the fixation. Butt joints in frame structures can be reinforced with a steel plate or a wavy key on the outside, or with a wooden block secured from the inside.
Pin/dowel connections
Wooden dowels - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to strengthen the connection. These insertable round tenons increase shear (shear) strength and, due to the adhesive, secure the assembly more reliably. Dowel joints can be used as frame joints (furniture), box joints (cabinets) or for joining/splicing (panels).
Assembling the dowel connection
1. Carefully cut out all components to the exact dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the face and clean edge of the post.
2. Mark center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end should be at least half the thickness of the material. A wide crossbar may require more than two dowels.
Mark the center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar and use the square to transfer them to the rack.
3. Lay the rack and bar face up. Using the square, transfer the center lines to the stand. Number and label all connections if there is more than one pair of posts and crossbars.
4. Transfer these markings to the clean edge of the post and the ends of the crossbar.
5. From the front side, use a thicknesser to draw a line in the center of the material, crossing the marking lines. This will mark the centers of the holes for the dowels.
Use a thicknesser to draw a center line, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the holes for the dowels.
6. Electric drill with twist drill or hand drill With a feather drill, drill holes in all parts. The drill must have a center point and scorers. The hole across the fibers should have a depth of approximately 2.5 times the diameter of the dowel, and the hole in the end should have a depth equal to approximately 3 times the diameter. For each hole, make an allowance of 2 mm; the dowel should not reach the bottom by this distance.
7. Use a countersink to remove excess fibers from the top of the holes. This will also make it easier to install the dowel and create space for the adhesive to secure the joint.
Nageli
The dowel should have longitudinal groove(now standard dowels are made with longitudinal ribs), along which excess glue will be removed when assembling the joint. If the dowel does not have a groove, then plan it flat on one side, which will give the same result. The ends should be chamfered to facilitate assembly and prevent damage to the hole by the dowel. And here, if the dowels do not have a chamfer, make it with a file or grind the edges of their ends.
Using centers to mark dowels
Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert special dowel centers into the holes for the dowels. Align the crossbar with the post markings and press the pieces together. The points of the centers will make marks on the stand. Drill holes through them. As an alternative, you can make a template from a wooden block, drill holes in it, fix the template on the part and drill holes for dowels through the holes in it.
Using a conductor for a dowel connection
A metal jig for dowel connections greatly facilitates marking and drilling holes for dowels. In box joints, the jig can be used at the ends, but it will not work on the faces of wide panels.
conductor for pin connections
1. Mark center lines on the front side of the material where the dowel holes should be. Select a suitable drill guide and insert it into the jig.
2. Align the alignment marks on the side of the jig and secure the movable support of the guide bushing.
3. Install the jig onto the part. Align the centering notch with the center line of the dowel hole. Tighten.
4. Install a drill depth stop on the drill in the required location.
Rally
To obtain a wider wooden part, you can use dowels to connect two parts of the same thickness along the edge. Place two boards with their wide sides together, align their ends exactly, and clamp the pair in a vice. On the clean edge, draw perpendicular lines to indicate the center lines of each dowel. In the middle of the edge of each board, use a thicknesser to score marks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the holes for the dowels.
The nail joint is neat and durable.
Notch / mortise connections
A notch, mortise or groove connection is called a corner or median connection, when the end of one part is attached to the layer and another part. It is based on a butt joint with an end cut made in the face. Used in frame (house frames) or box (cabinets) connections.
Types of jack/punch connections
The main types of notch joints are the t-notch in the dark/semi-dark (often this term is replaced by the term “flush/semi-dark”), which looks like a butt joint, but is stronger, the corner notch (corner connection) in the quarter and the corner notch in the dark/semi-dark. A corner notch into a rebate and a corner notch into a rebate with darkness/semi-darkness are made in the same way, but the rebate is made deeper - two-thirds of the material is selected.
Carrying out cutting
1. Mark a groove on the front side of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue the lines to both edges.
2. Using a thickness gauge, mark the depth of the groove between the marking lines on the edges. The depth is usually made from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste portion of the material.
3. C-clamp securely fasten the part. Saw the shoulders on the outgoing side of the marking lines to the required depth. If the groove is wide, make additional cuts in the waste to make it easier to remove the material with a chisel.
Saw close to the marking line on the waste side, making intermediate cuts with a wide groove.
4. Using a chisel on both sides, remove excess material and check that the bottom is even. You can use a primer to level the bottom.
Use a chisel to remove waste, working from both sides, and level the bottom of the groove.
5. Check the fit; if the part fits too tightly, it may need to be trimmed. Check for squareness.
6. The notch connection can be strengthened in one of the following ways or a combination of them:
- gluing and clamping until the glue sets;
- screwing with screws through the face of the outer part;
- nailing at an angle through the face of the outer part;
- Nailing obliquely across a corner.
The notch connection is quite strong
Groove and side tongue joints
This is a combination of a quarter cut and a rebate cut. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and the installation of slopes for window openings.
Making a connection
1. Make the ends perpendicular to the longitudinal axes of both parts. Mark the shoulder on one part, measuring the thickness of the material from the end. Continue marking on both edges and the front side.
2. Mark the second shoulder from the end side; it should be at a distance of one third of the thickness of the material. Continue on both edges.
3. Using a thickness gauge, mark the depth of the groove (one-third of the thickness of the material) on the edges between the shoulder lines.
4. Using a hacksaw, saw through the shoulders to the thickness line. Remove waste with a chisel and check the alignment.
5. Using a thicknesser with the same setting, mark a line on the back side and on the edges of the second part.
Adviсe:
- Mortise and tongue-and-groove joints can be easily made using a router and a suitable guide - either for the groove only, or for both the groove and the tongue. Recommendations for proper operation with a router, see p. 35.
- If the comb fits into the groove too tightly, trim the face (smooth) side of the comb or sand it with sandpaper.
6. From the front side, use a thicknesser to mark the edges towards the end and at the end itself. Saw along the lines of the planer with a hacksaw. Don't cut too deep as this will weaken the joint.
7. Using a chisel from the end, remove the waste. Check fit and adjust if necessary.
Half-tree connections
Half-timber joints are frame joints that are used to join parts together face to face or along an edge. The joint is made by removing the same amount of material from each piece so that they fit flush with each other.
Types of half-tree connections
There are six main types of half-tree joints: transverse, angular, dark, miter angled, dovetail and splicing.
Making a half-tree corner connection
1. Align the ends of both parts. On the top side of one of the parts, draw a line perpendicular to the edges, stepping back from the end to the width of the second part. Repeat on the underside of the second piece.
2. Set the thicknesser to half the thickness of the parts and draw a line on the ends and edges of both parts. Mark the waste on the top side of one piece and the bottom side of the other piece.
3. Clamp the part in a vice at an angle of 45° (faces vertical). Saw carefully along the grain, close to the thickness line on the waste side, until the saw is diagonal. Turn the piece over and continue cutting carefully, gradually lifting the saw handle until the saw is aligned with the shoulder line on both edges.
4. Remove the part from the vice and place it on the surface. Press it tightly to the tsulaga and clamp it with a clamp.
5. Saw the shoulder to the previously made cut and remove the waste. Use a chisel to smooth out any unevenness in the sample. Check that the cut is neat.
6. Repeat the process on the second piece.
7. Check the fit of the parts and, if necessary, level them with a chisel. The connection must be rectangular, flush, without gaps or backlash.
8. The connection can be strengthened with nails, screws, and glue.
Miter corner connections
Miter corner joints are made by bevelling the ends and hide the end grain and are aesthetically more consistent with the angular rotation of the decorative trim.
Types of miter corner joints
To bevel the ends in corner connection The angle at which the parts meet is divided in half by an angle. In a traditional connection, this angle is 90°, so each end is cut at 45°, but the angle can be either obtuse or acute. In uneven miter corner joints, parts with different widths are connected.
Performing miter joints
1. Mark the length of the pieces, keeping in mind that it should be measured along the long side, since the bevel will reduce the length inside the corner.
2. Having decided on the length, mark a line at 45° - on the edge or on the face, depending on where the bevel will be cut.
3. Using a combination square, transfer the markings to all sides of the part.
4. When cutting by hand, use a miter box and a hacksaw with a back or hand miter saw. Press the piece firmly against the back of the miter box - if it moves, the bevel will be uneven and the joint will not fit well. If you are simply sawing by hand, watch the process so as not to deviate from the marking lines on all sides of the part. A power miter saw, if you have one, will make a very neat bevel.
5. Place the two pieces together and check the fit. You can correct it by trimming the bevel surface with a plane. Firmly fix the part and work with a sharp plane, setting the knife overhang to a small extent.
6. The connection should be nailed through both parts. To do this, first place the parts on the surface and drive nails into the outer side of the bevel so that their tips slightly appear from the bevels.
Place nails in both parts so that the tips protrude slightly from the surface of the bevel.
7. Apply glue and press the joint tightly so that one part protrudes slightly and overlaps the other. First, drive nails into the protruding part. Under the blows of the hammer when hammering nails, the part will move slightly. The surfaces must be level. Nail the other side of the joint and countersink the nail heads. Check for squareness.
Drive the nails into the protruding part first and the hammer will move the joint into position.
8. If due to unevenness of the workmanship there is a small gap, smooth the connection on both sides with the round blade of a screwdriver. This will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, you will either have to redo the connection or seal the gap with putty.
9. To strengthen the corner connection, the miter can be glued inside the corner wooden block, if it is not visible. If appearance is important, the connection can be made using a tenon or secured with veneer dowels. Dowels or lamellas (standard flat plug-in tenons) can be used inside flat joints.
Miter splicing and cutting connection
A miter splice connects the ends of parts that are located on the same straight line, and a rip splice is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.
Miter splicing
When miter splicing, the parts are connected with identical bevels at the ends in such a way that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.
Connection with cutter
A connection with a cut (with a cut, with a fit) is used when it is necessary to connect two parts with a profile in a corner, for example, two plinths or cornices. If the part moves during the process of fastening it, the gap will be less noticeable than with a miter joint.
1. Secure the first baseboard in place. Move the second plinth located along the wall close to it.
Clamp the first baseboard in place and press the second baseboard against it, lining it up with the wall.
2. Swipe profile surface fixed baseboard with a small wooden block with a pencil pressed to it. The pencil will leave a marking line on the plinth being marked.
Using a block with a pencil pressed to it, with the tip pointed at the second plinth, draw along the relief of the first plinth, and the pencil will mark the cut line.
3. Cut along the marking line. Check the fit and adjust if necessary.
Complex profiles
Place the first plinth in place and, placing the second plinth in the miter box, make a bevel on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the required shape. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.
Lug connections
Lug joints are used when there is a need to connect intersecting parts located “On Edge”, either at the corner or in the middle (for example, the corner of a window sash or where a table leg meets a crossbar).
Types of lug connections
The most common types of eyelet connections are corner and T-shaped (T-shaped). For strength, the connection must be glued, but it can be strengthened with a dowel.
Making an eyelet connection
1. Mark the same as for, but divide the thickness of the material by three to determine one third. Mark the waste on both parts. On one part you will need to select the middle. This groove is called an eye. On the second part, both side parts of the material are removed, and the remaining middle part is called a tenon.
2. Saw along the grain to the shoulder line along the marking lines on the waste side. Use a hacksaw to cut out the shoulders, and you will get a tenon.
3. Working from both sides, remove material from the eye with a chisel/mortise chisel or jigsaw.
4. Check the fit and adjust with a chisel if necessary. Apply glue to the joint surfaces. Check for squareness. Using a C-clamp, clamp the joint while the glue hardens.
Tenon to socket connection
Tenon to socket connections, or simply tenon joints, are used when two parts are connected at an angle or intersection. It is probably the strongest of all frame joints in joinery and is used in the making of doors, window frames and furniture.
Types of tenon-to-socket connections
The two main types of tenon joints are the usual tenon-to-socket joint and the stepped tenon-to-socket joint (semi-dark). The tenon and socket make up approximately two-thirds of the width of the material. The socket is widened on one side of the groove (semi-dark), and a tenon step is inserted into it from its corresponding side. Semi-darkness helps prevent the thorn from being turned out of the socket.
Conventional tenon-to-socket connection
1. Determine the joint position on both pieces and mark all sides of the material. The marking shows the width of the intersecting part. The tenon will be at the end of the crossbar, and the socket will go through the post. The tenon should have a small allowance in length for further stripping of the joint.
2. Select a chisel that is as close in size as possible to a third of the thickness of the material. Set the thicknesser to the size of the chisel and mark the socket in the middle of the post between the previously marked marking lines. Work from the front side. If desired, you can set the thicknesser solution to a third of the thickness of the material and work with it on both sides.
H. In the same way, mark the tenon on the end and both sides until you mark the shoulders on the crossbar.
4. In a vice, clamp an auxiliary support in the form of a piece of wood high enough so that you can attach the stand to it, turned “on edge.” Secure the stand to the support, placing the clamp next to the marking of the socket.
5. Cut out a nest with a chisel, making an allowance inwards of about 3 mm from each end so as not to damage the edges when removing waste. Hold the chisel straight, maintaining parallelism
its edges are the plane of the rack. Make the first cut strictly vertically, placing the sharpening bevel towards the middle of the socket. Repeat from the other end.
6. Make several intermediate cuts, holding the chisel at a slight angle and with the sharpening bevel down. Select a retreat, using the chisel as a lever. Having gone deeper by 5 mm, make more cuts and select a waste. Continue until about halfway thick. Turn the piece over and work the same way on the other side.
7. After removing the main part of the waste, clean out the nest and cut off the previously left allowance to the marking lines on each side.
8. Cut a tenon along the fibers, running a hacksaw along the marking line on the waste side, and cut out the shoulders.
9. Check fit and adjust if necessary. The shoulders of the tenon should fit neatly into the post, the connection should be perpendicular and have no play.
10. To secure, you can insert wedges on both sides of the tenon. The gap for this is made in the socket. Working with a chisel from the outside of the socket, widen it to about two-thirds of the depth with a 1:8 slope. The wedges are made with the same bias.
11. Apply glue and squeeze tightly. Check for squareness. Apply glue to the wedges and drive them into place. Saw off the tenon allowance and remove excess glue.
Other tenon joints
Tenon joints for window frames and doors are somewhat different from tenon joints in semi-darkness, although the technique is the same. Inside there is a fold and/or lining for glass or panel (panel). When making a tenon-to-socket connection on a part with a rebate, make the plane of the tenon in line with the edge of the rebate. One of the shoulders of the crossbar is made longer (to the depth of the fold), and the second is made shorter so as not to block the fold.
Tenon joints for parts with overlays have a shoulder that is cut to match the profile of the overlay. An alternative is to remove the trim from the edge of the socket and make a bevel or cut to match the mating piece.
Other types of tenon-to-socket connections:
- Side tenon - in the manufacture of doors.
- A hidden beveled tenon in semi-darkness (with a beveled step) - to hide the tenon.
- Tenon in the dark (tenon steps on both sides) - for relatively wide parts, such as bottom harness(bar) door.
All these connections can be through, or they can be blind, when the end of the tenon is not visible from reverse side racks. They can be strengthened with wedges or dowels.
Rally
Wide, high quality timber is becoming increasingly difficult to find and very expensive. Moreover, such wide boards are subject to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes working with them difficult. To join narrow boards along the edges into wide panels for tabletops or workbench covers, they use bonding.
Preparation
Before starting the bonding itself, you must do the following:
- If possible, select radial sawn boards. They are less susceptible to shrinkage deformations than lumber tangential sawing. If tangentially sawn boards are used, then place their core side alternately in one direction and the other.
- Try not to combine materials with different ways cutting into one panel.
- Do not under any circumstances weld together boards from different breeds wood if they are not dried properly. They will shrink and crack differently.
- If possible, place the boards with the grain in the same direction.
- Be sure to cut the material to size before joining.
- Use only good quality glue.
- If the wood will be polished, select the texture or color.
Rallying on a smooth fugue
1. Lay out all the boards face up. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the edges with a continuous pencil line drawn along the joints at an angle.
2. Plane straight edges and check fit to appropriate adjacent boards. Align the ends or pencil lines each time.
3. Make sure there are no gaps and that the entire surface is flat. If you squeeze the gap with a clamp or fill it with putty, the connection will subsequently crack.
4. When planing short pieces, clamp two in a vise right sides together and plane both edges at the same time. There is no need to maintain the squareness of the edges, since when joining they will mutually compensate for their possible tilt.
5. Prepare as for a butt joint and apply glue. Using squeezing and rubbing, connect the two surfaces, squeezing out excess glue and helping the surfaces “suck” to each other.
Other ways to rally
Other bonding connections with different strengths are prepared in the same way. These include:
- with dowels (dowels);
- in tongue and groove;
- at a quarter.
Gluing and fixing with clamps
Gluing and fixing glued parts is an important part of woodworking, without which many products will lose strength.
Adhesives
The glue strengthens the connection, holding the parts together so that they cannot be easily pulled apart. When working with adhesives, be sure to wear protective gloves and follow the safety instructions on the packaging. Clean the product from excess glue before it sets, as it can dull the plane knife and clog the abrasive sandpaper.
PVA (polyvinyl acetate)
PVA glue is a universal wood glue. While still wet, it can be wiped off with a cloth dampened with water. It perfectly glues loose surfaces, does not require long-term fixation for setting and sets in about an hour. PVA gives a fairly strong connection and sticks to almost any porous surface. Provides a permanent connection but is not heat or moisture resistant. Apply with a brush, or for large surfaces, dilute with water and apply paint roller. Since PVA glue has water base, then shrinks when setting.
Contact glue
Contact adhesive bonds immediately after application and joining of parts. Apply it to both surfaces and when the glue is dry to the touch, press them together. It is used for laminate or veneer to chipboard. No fixation required. Can be cleaned with solvent. Contact adhesive is flammable. Handle it in a well-ventilated area to reduce fumes. Not recommended for outdoor use as it is not moisture or heat resistant.
Epoxy adhesive
Epoxy glue is the strongest of the adhesives used in woodworking, and the most expensive. This is a two-component resin-based adhesive that does not shrink when set and softens when heated and does not creep under load. It is water-resistant and bonds to almost all materials, both porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics, such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass (plexiglass). Suitable for outdoor use. In an uncured form, it can be removed with a solvent.
Hot melt adhesive
Hot melt, solventless adhesive will stick to almost anything, including many plastics. Typically sold in the form of glue sticks that are inserted into a special electric glue gun. Apply glue, connect the surfaces and compress for 30 seconds. No fixation required. Can be cleaned with solvents.
Fixation clips
Clamps come in a variety of designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but usually only a couple of varieties are needed. Be sure to place a piece of scrap wood between the clamp and the work to avoid indentations from the applied pressure.
Gluing and fixation technique
Before gluing, be sure to assemble the product “dry” - without glue. Lock as necessary to check connections and dimensions. If everything is fine, disassemble the product, arranging the parts in a convenient order. Mark the areas to be glued and prepare clamps with jaws/stops set at the required distance.
Frame assembly
Using a brush, spread the glue evenly onto all surfaces to be glued and quickly assemble the product. Remove excess glue and secure the assembly with clamps. Apply even pressure to compress the joints. The clamps must be perpendicular and parallel to the surfaces of the product.
Place the clamps as close to the connection as possible. Check the parallelism of the crossbars and align if necessary. Measure the diagonals - if they are the same, then the rectangularity of the product is maintained. If not, then a light but sharp blow to one end of the post can straighten the shape. Adjust the clamps if necessary.
If the frame does not lie flat on a flat surface, tap the protruding areas with a mallet through a block of wood as a spacer. If this does not help, you may need to loosen the clamps or use clamps to secure a block of wood across the frame.
