Weigela - planting and care in open ground, reproduction and shelter for the winter. Weigela: planting, propagation and care How long does the shrub live

Weigela is a flowering deciduous shrub, but, unlike other similar species that bloom only once per season, weigela will delight you with lush fragrant buds in spring and late summer.

To decorate your garden with this unusual shrub, you need to know how to grow it correctly and what care the plant may require. These issues are discussed in detail in this article.

Weigela shrub - description

Weigela is a deciduous shrub. Asia is considered the birthplace of the culture, and although there are about 15 plant species in nature, only seven of them are grown in gardens. In addition to its high decorative value, the shrub is distinguished by its abundant and long-lasting flowering, undemanding care and growing conditions (Figure 1).

Picture 1. External features weigels

Weigela is classified as a moisture-loving, shade-tolerant plant. The buds can be either single or collected in small inflorescences. The petals can have a wide variety of colors, from cream and yellow to dark red, and young blooming buds are usually lighter, but as they age they darken. After flowering is complete, fruit boxes with seeds form in place of the withered buds.

Types and varieties

Under natural conditions, weigela grows in warm tropical climates, but thanks to the efforts of breeders, winter-hardy varieties, suitable for cultivation in temperate and harsh climates (Figure 2).

Popular types of weigela include:

1. Early (pleasant) found in natural conditions on Far East, and mature shrubs can reach two meters in height. Bright pink buds are collected in small inflorescences. The flowering period begins at the end of May and lasts about a month.
2. Blooming weigela (Florida) can reach three meters in height. The inflorescences are grouped in groups of 3-4 and bloom at the end of May, with a flowering period of no more than three weeks. This species includes varieties Alba (a dwarf shrub with white flowers), Victoria (a short shrub with purple flowers and brownish leaves), as well as a purple variety, the representatives of which are distinguished by a lush crown and rich pink buds.
3. Spreading weigela rarely exceeds one and a half meters in height, but is distinguished by a wide variety of varieties. For example, Bristol Ruby is distinguished by bright pink inflorescences and rich green leaves, and Red Prince is a compact hybrid with bright red flowers, which are favorably set off by green foliage.

Figure 2. Main varieties of the crop: 1 - early (pleasant), 2 - flowering (Florida), 3 - spreading

Separately, weigela Middendorf is distinguished - a one and a half meter shrub with large yellow flowers. This particular type of crop is distinguished by flowering twice per season.

As for other garden crops, for weigela there are certain rules for planting in open ground. Compliance with these recommendations will determine how quickly the shrub takes root in a new place and begins to bloom.

The main focus should be on planting time. Below we will look at the main recommendations that should be taken into account when planting a plant in open ground (Figure 3).

When to plant

The best time for planting is considered to be early spring, when the soil has already thawed and warmed up slightly, but the buds on the trees and shrubs have not yet begun to bloom.

Note: It is not recommended to plant shrubs in autumn, as there is a high risk of its death during the winter.

It is best to choose a place on the south side of the site, as strong winds and drafts can lead to premature fall of the buds. In addition, it is desirable that the area is well illuminated by the sun: only in this case the buds will acquire a bright, rich color. The soil must be sufficiently loose and fertile, so areas with poor soils must be additionally fertilized.

How to plant

Shrubs are planted in a previously prepared area. It must be cleared of weeds, and, if necessary, mineral and organic fertilizers should be added to the soil.

Figure 3. Features of planting shrubs in open ground

The depth of the planting holes depends on the fertility of the soil. If the soil is rich in humus, holes 30-40 cm deep will be sufficient. For poor soils, the holes are made deeper so that not only a layer of drainage, but also fertile soil can be laid on their bottom.

Note: During the planting process, an additional 100 grams of nitrophoska and one and a half buckets of compost are added to each hole. In addition, it is advisable to treat the roots of seedlings with growth stimulants so that the seedlings quickly take root in a new place.

Planting holes are spaced from each other at a distance of 80-150 cm (depending on the size of the variety). The seedling is placed vertically in the hole, the roots are carefully straightened and sprinkled with earth so that there are no voids between them. In this case, it is desirable that after the soil settles, the root collar is flush with the ground level, or is buried 1-2 cm. After all these measures, the bed is watered and mulched with organic materials.

Weigela care

Caring for shrubs is quite simple, especially if you have chosen the right place and time for planting. However, it should be borne in mind that despite all the unpretentiousness of the culture, at certain times of the year it requires proper care.

Let's take a closer look at the features of seasonal work with weigela shrubs in more detail.

in spring

If this shrub is already growing on your site, it is necessary to inspect it and sanitary pruning in the spring. Before the plant awakens, you need to remove all dry and damaged branches.

It is also necessary to remove the layer of old mulch, water the soil and cover it with a fresh layer of mulching material. This condition applies to both mature shrubs and newly planted seedlings.

In addition to pruning and mulching, in early spring fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers, which stimulate the growth of young shoots and leaves, and make the crown of the bush more lush.

Summer care

Summer crop care is even easier than spring. You need to water the bush only as needed, namely in severe drought. In beds with a young plant, you need to regularly remove weeds and carry out superficial loosening of the soil.

Also in summer, the plant needs fertilizing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which are applied to the ground in dry form, after which abundant watering is carried out. Otherwise, shrubs do not require special attention from the gardener in the summer.

Features of care in autumn

In autumn, when the flowering period ends, the shrub begins to prepare for winter. In order for the crop to survive the cold season well, certain measures need to be taken. Firstly, young, recently planted plants need to be wrapped for the winter thick paper or any other covering material to protect against frost.

Secondly, it is imperative to mulch the tree trunk circles so that the plants do not lose moisture and nutrients during the winter.

In addition, in the fall, the soil is dug up while wood ash is added to the soil (200 g per square meter beds). This will give the plants necessary in winter nutrients and will ensure abundant and friendly flowering next year.

Weigela flowering

The main difference between weigela and others ornamental shrubs is that it blooms twice a year. The first time the buds bloom in the spring on last year's shoots, and the second time on the new growth of the current year at the end of August and beginning of September (Figure 4).

Figure 4. Features of flowering culture

During the flowering period, it is advisable to provide the shrub with additional nutrition by adding potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to the soil. This will help the crop bloom more luxuriantly and abundantly.

Reproduction

Weigela can be propagated in many ways. But growing from seeds is rarely practiced, since planting material remains viable only for several years, and growing an adult shrub takes too long.

Note: Another disadvantage of growing from seeds is the fact that young seedlings do not always retain the characteristics of the variety.

That is why when propagating shrubs, preference is given to the vegetative method: cuttings, root shoots or layering (Figure 5). When using the cutting method, you can take cuttings from both green shoots of the current year and semi-lignified branches from last year. The lower part of the cutting is freed from leaves and treated with a solution of a root-forming preparation. After this, the cuttings are planted in light, moist soil (a mixture of peat and sand). Each seedling is covered with a jar or plastic bottle on top. Subsequently, the shelter is removed daily for watering and ventilation. As young shoots form, pinching is done to make the plant more lush.

Figure 5. Stages of propagation by cuttings and layering

When using the propagation method by layering, you need to select a branch located close to the ground, slightly damage its bark and sprinkle it with a layer of soil. The very next year you will have a full-fledged plant that can be separated from the mother bush. However, it should be borne in mind that regardless of the chosen method of propagation, young plants can only be transplanted to a permanent place after three years.

Trimming

Like other ornamental shrubs, weigela needs pruning. For young plants, it is enough to carry out sanitary cleaning by removing old, dry or frozen shoots in the spring. This stimulates tillering and will help maintain the health of the crop (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Features of pruning shrubs

Mature shrubs need to be shaped, and pruning is carried out in the summer, after the completion of the first wave of flowering. It should be borne in mind that the procedure must be completed before the start of a new flowering period, which occurs on the shoots of the current year. If you did not have time to remove excess branches, it is better to postpone the procedure until next year.

Once every four years, anti-aging pruning is also carried out, during which all branches older than three years of age are removed, and the rest are shortened by a third. If the flowering of the weigela has become insignificant or has stopped altogether, you can completely cut off all the branches. The crop will quickly recover after this procedure and resume flowering.

Weigela after flowering

As mentioned above, the shrub blooms twice per season: in spring and at the end of summer. After this period is over, seed pods form in place of the wilted buds. At this time, you can collect planting material for further propagation and begin preparing the bush for winter.

How and when to collect seeds

The seeds of the bush begin to form in September, but they can be collected no earlier than November. Distinctive feature seed readiness - cracking of the capsule.

To prevent self-sowing of seeds, most of the capsules can be removed before ripening, and the rest can be wrapped in gauze, securing it to the branch. When the seeds are ripe, the boxes are simply cut off, opened, the seeds are poured onto paper and lightly dried.

Such seeds can be stored for no longer than two years, since in the future they lose their ability to germinate.

Weigela in winter

In order for a crop to survive the winter well, it must be properly prepared for the cold season. To do this, in November, when most of the leaves have fallen, trunk circle sprinkle with earth, forming a low mound.

The branches of the plant are bent to the ground and covered with covering material, for example, roofing felt. The covering must be securely fastened so that it is not accidentally torn off by the wind. Other designs will also help protect weigela. The branches are simply tied with a rope, a wire frame is installed around the bush, dry leaves are poured inside, and the plant is covered with covering material on top.

Pests and diseases

During the flowering period, weigela can be damaged by caterpillars, aphids or spider mites, but they spread mainly in extreme heat. To combat these pests, insecticide solutions are used, which are sprayed on the shrub itself and the soil around it.

Among the diseases, weigela is sensitive to spotting, gray rot and rust. It is difficult to treat these diseases, so treatment is carried out for prevention Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate before flowering begins.

You will find more information about the weigela shrub and the features of its cultivation in the video.

Weigela can rightfully be called one of the most luxurious ornamental flowering shrubs. This charming bush causes a storm of positive emotions with the fantastically abundant flowering of its brightly colored bells, due to which the foliage is often not visible. It is noteworthy that the foliage itself attracts the eye, amazingly changing color depending on the season. Even a novice gardener can become a favorite of this beautiful plant due to its ease of planting and ease of cultivation and care. open ground.

Weigela: description of the shrub, its flowering period

Belongs to the genus of shrubs of the honeysuckle family. It comes in compact sizes up to 1 meter, and there are also quite tall varieties up to 2-3 meters.

This magnificent shrub is definitely not inferior to anyone in the beauty of its flowering. Weigela has large funnel-shaped or tubular-bell-shaped flowers (sometimes reaching 5 centimeters in length), which can be single or collected in racemes. Depending on the variety, the exquisite colors of the flowers vary greatly: they can be red, pink, cream, white or even yellow. The main feature of the flowering of this amazing ornamental shrub is the variation in flower color: from pale to rich.

Weigela leaves also attract attention: green, soft, velvety with white, purple or red edges. Their intricate varietal color also strangely changes depending on the season - at first, for example, green with a pale pinkish edging, and in the fall it is already a rich red color.

The end of May - beginning of June is the time when weigels bloom. Summer flowering usually lasts for about a month. They can bloom again (naturally, less abundantly) in September-October if the weather is warm.

Video: beautiful flowering weigela shrub

Popular types and varieties of weigela

There are more than 10 types of weigela of various varieties, but the most popular varieties of this shrub that are grown by gardeners are the following:

By the way! Weigela Middendorf, are characterized by high frost resistance and excellent.

Video: flowering and types of weigela

Recently, weigela has become very popular, including due to its winter hardiness. Bristol Ruby, about which you can learn more about planting and growing in the following video:

Methods of propagation of weigela

As a rule, it is best to propagate weigela cuttings. The optimal time is early spring before the buds open. The stalk must be cut so that it has 3-4 buds and is 10-12 centimeters long. Next, it needs to be treated with one of the root formation stimulants, for example, kornevin. Then put it in a cool and dark place for 12 hours. During this time, the cut will dry out and absorb the root stimulant. That's it, the cuttings can be planted (to a depth of 0.5-1 centimeter) and covered with film (mini-greenhouse). Rooting may take about a month or even more. Next spring, the cuttings can be planted in a permanent place in open ground.

Seminal the method is also considered suitable, but you must understand that this is a very long process and you will have to wait a very long time for flowering.

Weigela can be propagated and layering, in other words, by dropping a twig, but the method is very ineffective.

Video: propagation of weigela by cuttings and seeds

Planting weigela in open ground

Landing dates

It is optimal to plant weigela in open ground in the spring. The main thing is to meet the deadlines before the buds swell. Thus, weigela can be planted from the end of March to May: in March-April - in the south, in April-May - in the middle zone and the Moscow region.

Place on site

As for the place for planting weigela, it should be open and sunny, only in this case the shrub will bloom profusely. If you plant it in light partial shade, it will also be able to take root well, but the flowering will not be as vigorous, although very beautiful. It is also very important to choose a place where the shrub will be well protected from drafts, otherwise its leaves and flowers may be damaged during strong northern winds. The south side of the house is perfect for these purposes.

As for the use of weigela in garden design, low-growing varieties of shrubs are ideal for rocky areas of the garden, tall ones look good in flowering hedge. Also, this very attractive shrub can be planted in mixborders, on alpine roller coaster, close to reservoirs and artificial ponds.

It is beautiful to plant weigela next to ferns, hostas, lilies of the valley, juniper and also.

The bush will look interesting joint plantings with spirea, cotoneaster and

It is effective to plant single bushes near the entrance to your home or next to the gate.

Planting pit and soil

To plant a weigela seedling you will need to prepare landing hole 50 by 50 centimeters in size, at the bottom of which make a drainage layer of about 15 centimeters (from gravel and sand, broken bricks and large stones are also suitable) so that there is no stagnation of water.

The shrub requires loose and fertile soil. Suitable soil mixture for filling the planting hole: 2 parts sand, 2 parts turf soil and 1 part humus or 2 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf soil and 1 part sand, plus 1 tbsp. a spoonful of saltpeter or urea.

It is advisable to plant weigela seedlings at a distance of 2-3 meters, because The bush is growing strongly.

Direct planting of seedlings

Advice! It is ideal to purchase weigela seedlings that are 3-4 years old. It will also be great if, before planting in open ground, you dip the roots of the seedling in water with the addition of one of the popular root stimulating agents.

Step-by-step instructions for planting weigela in open ground:

Video: when and to plant weigela in open ground

Caring for weigela in open ground

The agricultural technology for growing weigela is not that complicated; the rules for care are quite simple.

Weigela is one of those shrubs that love moisture, but cannot tolerate waterlogging. Therefore, after each watering it is necessary loosen the soil in the tree trunk circle, or mulch it (the tree trunk circle) first, which will allow the plant to constantly receive oxygen, and also the soil will not sour after watering.

Regarding frequency watering weigels, then on hot summer days, the bush will only need 1 bucket once every 4 weeks. And in the spring you can generally do without watering if the soil has remained wet since winter or it rains. In general, you just need to make sure that the soil does not dry out.

It is enough to feed the shrub 2 times per season. First time It is recommended to feed weigela with nitrogen fertilizers in early spring. Recipe for preparing fertilizer: 1-2 tablespoons of urea or ammonium nitrate per 1 bucket of water. Or you can dig around the bush with rotted manure. The plant should be fed the second and last time when its buds begin to fill, in other words, before flowering. On at this stage The bush requires phosphorus-potassium fertilizing. In this case, for example, you can use superphosphate and potassium chloride or sulfate, and also, as an option, potassium monophosphate.

The bush lends itself perfectly formative pruning, so you can control its size and shape if you wish.

In the spring, be prudent sanitary pruning of all dry, frozen, broken and diseased branches. It may also be required after each flowering.

Video: useful tips for growing weigela

Thus, if you plant weigela in the spring at your summer cottage, and then grow it correctly, observing all the conditions for caring for the plant, then this flowering deciduous shrub will delight you with its incredibly bright and lush flowering for several decades.

Video: planting weigela, care and description of the bush

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With the onset of spring, nature awakens, garden plots become real decorations of the surrounding world: trees and shrubs bloom profusely and are fragrant. Particularly notable are those that delight the eye with their bright colors. One of these shrubs is weigela. In open ground, planting and caring for it is not too complicated and requires only minimal knowledge of the characteristics of this blooming beauty. We will talk about them in this article.

This is an ornamental shrub belonging to the honeysuckle family. It got its name from the botanist, chemist and pharmacologist German Christian Ehrenfried von Weigel.

The natural habitat of weigela is about. Java, Far East region and East Asia. Both in natural and in garden conditions The bush looks great, especially during its flowering period. At the same time, it is quite unpretentious and easy to propagate, so it is very popular among gardeners.

Characteristic

The weigela bush takes root well in the climate of our country. It has many varieties, but not all varieties of this ornamental plant are widespread. Any of them are a wonderful decoration for the landscape and a real discovery for any novice gardener. The fact is that weigela blooms twice per season: from May to June and from mid-August to the end of September. Such an interesting property cannot leave any flower lover indifferent.

Table 1. Characteristics of weigela

Characteristic	Description
Type of trees	Shrubs
Height	Up to 4 meters
Shape of flowers	Bells or funnels
Flower sizes	Up to 5 cm
Flower coloring	Cream, pink, red, yellow
Arrangement of colors	Single / inflorescences
Fruit shape	Box-shaped
Seeds	Small oblong
Seed ripening time	September
Seed collection time	November
Sensitivity to cold	Relatively cold-resistant (depending on the variety)
Peculiarities	They do not like wind, need shelter, are moisture-loving

Note: weigela prefers fertile, moisture-absorbing soil. In it, the lush flowering of the bush will not take long to appear.

Cultivated varieties

So, this representative of the honeysuckle family has quite a few species and different hybrid varieties, each of which is beautiful in its own way. However, only a few of them are most widespread in gardening. Especially popular are universal varieties that can grow both in the middle zone and in the south of Russia. What properties are they so attractive to plant lovers for? Let's figure it out.

This is the case when the name speaks for itself: its blooming appearance is very impressive. The color of the inflorescences is lilac-pink on the outside and softly light on the inside. The flowers are shaped like funnels. The leaves are slightly fluffy with an unusual color: green with yellowish spots that lighten with the onset of autumn. Leaves fall in October. “Pleasant” blooms twice – from May to June and in September. It can reach a height of up to 1.3 meters.

The usual habitat is Sakhalin, China and the Far East. The shrub grows up to 1.5 meters. Beautiful yellow tubular flowers with bright red dots can be quite large - up to 5 cm. The leaves are oval in shape with pointed tips and fall off at the end of the growing season. Middendorf seeds are small, with small “wings”.

Weigela « early »

This shrub is tall (up to two meters), its luxurious, dense crown is pleasing to the eye. The inflorescences are pink and have a drooping appearance, but this is not at all a sign of a plant disease, but a feature of it. It blooms once, starting in May and ending in mid-June.

Weigela « profusely blooming »

The ellipsoidal shape of large (up to 11 cm) leaves of the bush attracts attention. The flowers are colored deep red. The plant is frost-resistant, but requires attention. Necessary and good soil. Experienced gardeners advise planting “profusely flowering” weigela along the paths: during the flowering period, these shrubs will give the paths unprecedented airiness and splendor.

It blooms for about three weeks (in June) with a deep pink color. It doesn’t matter at all where you plant this variety: it is very unpretentious to location. However, he is very afraid of cold weather, so shelter is a necessary measure. Loves moist soil.

Weigela « Korean »

Despite the name, Japan is considered its homeland. Decorative weigela “Korean” loves light very much and, when there is enough of it, blooms magnificently and vigorously. However, the branches of the plant are fragile, so it must be located in a place protected from strong winds.

Weigela « hybrid »

It is not called hybrid for nothing, because this shrub is a hybrid obtained by crossing several beautiful and popular varieties: “blooming”, “abundantly flowering” and “Korean” weigela. Lush flowers have a soft pink tint. It is this variety that most often becomes decoration landscape compositions.

Bred in Poland. The shrub can easily reach three meters in width, while its crown is very compact, with abundant green foliage. The flowers are tubular, red-pink, with a shiny hue. From June to August, “eva ratke” blooms and smells fragrant. You can purchase a copy of the real “Eva Ratke” on the website of Polish fruit nurseries.

The hybrid with this “pink” name shines with a lilac-pink color. Its branches are very graceful, with smooth curves. The height of the bush is approximately one and a half meters. "Rosea" tolerates winter quite well, but a little shelter during the cold season will not be superfluous.

This variety is distinguished by the fact that it grows quite quickly. Attracts gardeners with its large size (3.5-4 meters in height and 3.5 in width). It blooms in June-July with beautiful ruby ​​inflorescences.

Video - Weigela flowering and its types

How to choose a weigela seedling?

The variety of weigela varieties gives gardeners enormous scope for landscape creativity. But whoever from the honeysuckle family would be preferred should know the basic rules for choosing a seedling:

1. The cuttings must be sufficiently mature (at least 3 years old) and not too short (more than 30 cm). Even very small specimens may well not take root.
2. You should not go to the other extreme - purchase plants that are too mature (above 1.5 meters). These shrubs, already accustomed to certain conditions, run the risk of simply not adapting to new ones.
3. It is best to choose planting material with completely covered roots. Such cuttings develop well, and they can be planted until June.
4. If you have decided to purchase a seedling whose root system is open, you should do this immediately before or shortly before planting. To deliver the plant to the garden without harm, you need to wrap the roots with thick paper.
5. Monitor the condition of the seedling: branches and buds should not be broken. On the trunk and bark healthy tree there will be no traces of damage or signs of disease. The leaves of a good seedling will not have spots, holes or other defects.

1. When choosing seedlings, it is better to give preference to 40-60 centimeter samples with 4-5 shoots.
2. If for some reason the roots of the seedling turn out to be dried out, it doesn’t matter. Before planting such a cutting, it needs to be soaked in earthen mash for 2-3 hours.

Important: earthen mash - a mixture of clay, water and manganese solution. All ingredients are stirred to a paste.

Where to plant weigela?

Despite the fact that the plant is quite shade-tolerant, it needs a well-lit place. This promotes long and vibrant flowering. That's why best place for weigela there will be a small elevation, protected from drafts and fairly well lit. The northern side will have a detrimental effect on the bush: buds may fall off, therefore, the southern side is much preferable. The soil should be humus, moderately loose. Loamy or sandy soil will provide very good growth. To successfully plant shrubs in the spring, you should begin preparing the soil in the fall. To do this you will have to:

• dig up the ground;
• get rid of weeds;
• fertilize the soil.

In the process of creating good conditions for weigela it is very important to prepare high-quality soil for it.

Table 2. Fertilizers for different types of soil

The ingredients must be mixed well. After the fertilizer is ready, it needs to be scattered over the land allocated for future planting of shrubs and dug up (the approximate depth is a spade bayonet).

When to plant weigela?

Of course, the best time for planting is spring. Here you need to select good time, when the buds on the trees have not yet swelled, but the earth has already recovered sufficiently from the winter cold.

Attention: Autumn planting is almost always unsuccessful: the seedlings die at the first frost.

How to plant weigela?

Planting weigela in the spring is not too different from planting other trees and shrubs in the ground. Despite this, the landing process has a number of features and tricks:

1. First you need to prepare a planting hole measuring 50 by 60 cm.

1. Drainage (crushed stone, pebbles, broken brick, etc.) is placed at the bottom of the pit. On top you need to pour a small amount of a healthy mixture (1/3 of a bucket of compost + 30 g of nitrophoska).

1. Carefully place the seedling in the hole. Spread out the roots.
2. The depth at which the bush is installed should not exceed too much the level of the root collar (no more than 1-2 cm). Focus on the very first roots that extend from the trunk. Carefully fill the hole with soil.

1. After planting, it would be a good idea to shorten the shoots, leaving 4-5 buds on them. This procedure may increase tillering in the future.
2. The bush is watered abundantly and the soil is mulched.

Transfer

This ornamental shrub does not like being moved from place to place. And, of course, gardeners try not to do this. But situations when it is necessary to transplant weigela are not excluded. If such a need arises, then the transplantation process should be carried out exclusively in the spring, before the start of the growing season.

Note: The older the bush, the more careful moving it requires!

The thing is that the development of shrubs also implies active growth its roots. Therefore, in order not to harm the formed root system, you need to dig out weigela with extreme caution:

1. First you need to dig around the bush. The landmark is its crown.
2. The bush is carefully taken out along with a lump of earth and transferred to a ready-made hole.

1. Before placing the plant in a new hole, you need to add 30 g of the mineral complex.

1. When installing the bush, make sure that its position is level and that the root collar is level with the ground.
2. The hole is filled with soil. The transplanted bush should be watered well and wait until the water is absorbed, after which the space around the weigela is sprinkled with mulch.

Important: pine needles, peat, tree bark, sawdust, etc. are usually used as mulch.

Weigela care

Like any plant, weigela needs care and some attention. Caring for it is simple and, as a rule, is needed during the period of growth and strengthening of the bush. Following a few recommendations will help the gardener soon see lush flowering shrubs on his site.

Watering

If the soil around the trunk is mulched, then you will not need to water the bush often. And in general, weigela is quite tolerant of lack of moisture, although during periods of heat and drought it needs a lot of liquid.

To help the plant cleanse itself of dust settled on the leaves, it is useful to spray. Plain water is suitable for this. This will also increase air humidity, which this beauty loves very much.

Top dressing

If minerals have already been added to the soil when planting, you don’t have to worry about fertilizer for the first two years. Subsequent feeding should be carried out depending on the time of year:

• beginning of spring - diammofoska, "Kemira-lux", ammofoska or other potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen substances;
• beginning of summer (formation of buds) – phosphorus and potassium (superphosphate, potassium sulfate, etc.);
• autumn – wood ash (200 g/1 sq. meter), “Kemira-autumn”, “Fertika-autumn” (dosage strictly according to the instructions).

Loosening

Quite a useful procedure. You need to loosen the soil around the bush carefully and not too deeply to avoid damaging the roots (5-7 cm). In parallel with loosening, it is necessary to remove weeds.

Trimming

To make the bush pleasing to the eye, it needs to be trimmed from time to time.

Note: pruning is beneficial for weigela and will not harm it either in summer or autumn. However, it is more convenient to trim the bush in early spring, when it does not have dense foliage.

Table 3. Weigela haircut

Purpose of pruning	Dates	Technology
Improving the condition of the bush (sanitary)	April-May - before flowering begins. October-November - before the onset of the rest period	In spring, pruning begins during the period of swelling of the buds; Only branches that have spots, darkening or damage need to be trimmed. In autumn, haircuts are carried out a month before the onset of frost. Branches directed downwards or into the bush should be removed
Crown formation	For the first 2 years, haircuts are not performed. Then June-July - after the end of the first flowering	You need to cut the shoots depending on the desired shape (cube, ball, pyramid) by no more than 1/3. At the end of the procedure, the soil is fertilized with potassium, humus, mullein with water (1:10) and mulched
Plant rejuvenation	Spring (once every three years)	Branches older than 3 years must be removed. The ends of the rest are cut off by 1/3. Sometimes you can cut off all the branches - this will completely rejuvenate the plant

Video - Planting weigela and caring for it

Protection from diseases and pests

Depending on the season, plants can be exposed to a variety of garden pests and diseases. What can be done?

1. If the weigela has suffered from fungi and bacteria, it must be treated with a mixture of copper sulfate and lime.
2. To protect leaves from rot and rust, you can use the Topsin-M fungicide (3%).
3. Pesticides (Rotor, Keltan, etc.) are effective in getting rid of aphids, leaf beetles and other pests.

Attention: These drugs contain toxins! When using them, personal protective equipment and full compliance with the instructions are required!

1. A natural and good remedy for aphids and cobwebs is an infusion of potato tops: 2 kg of greens are steamed in 10 liters of boiling water and left for 10 hours. As soon as the liquid is ready, weigela is sprayed with it (3 times with a five-day interval).
2. From time to time you can fertilize the bush with minerals (boron, iron, zinc, magnesium, manganese, copper).

Preparing for winter

Residents of southern Russia should not worry too much about how their weigela will overwinter. It is enough just to hill up and mulch the soil around the bush before the onset of cold weather. Gardeners in snowy regions also don’t have to worry too much: a large layer of snow will perfectly warm the bushes. You just need to tie the branches and bend them to the ground so that they do not break. In the absence of sufficient snow cover, a good solution would be to create a special shelter.

Attention: The procedure for covering weigela should be carried out exclusively in dry weather! Dampness can harm the bush: the branches will begin to rot and rot.

Weigela propagation

As a rule, gardeners do not face any particular difficulties in the matter of propagating this shrub. There are three ways to propagate weigela:

1. Seminal. It should be noted that this method, although simple, is ineffective: seedlings may not appear at all or they may not inherit the varietal characteristics of the parent tree. And yet, some gardeners successfully use this method in practice.

In September, the “boxes” with seeds are already ripe. But they need to be collected no earlier than the moment when their walls begin to crack. This usually happens in November. How to do it? You can wrap the testes with pieces of gauze as early as mid-September. With the onset of November, the “box” is carefully cut off and brought into the room to dry. The seed material is stored in a dark, moisture-free place until spring and its subsequent planting in the ground.

1. Cherenkovy. This method is very popular and very simple:

• at the end of May, last year's shoots (10-15 cm) are cut from the bush;

• the lower leaves are removed from the cuttings and their tops are shortened;
• soak the branches in “Kornevin” (3-5 minutes);
• immerse the cuttings to a depth of 1-2 cm in a pot with sand and peat;
• cover each of them (jar or bottle);

1. Layering. Perhaps the easiest and least expensive method of propagating weigela. In order to get a new bush, it will be enough to lower the lower shoot closer to the soil, lightly cut the bark with a blade and fill this place with earth. Thus, by next spring the cuttings will take root and can be transplanted to another place.

Conclusion

This beautiful shrub, which blooms twice per season, can decorate any garden. When decorating your site and planning the location of the weigela, you should take into account its height and species characteristics:

• large varieties look advantageous both in single and group versions;
• compact ones will be a good decoration for an alpine hill, flower garden, or Japanese garden;
• tall weigels can be placed on all sides of the garden or at the entrance to it, as if they were “watchtowers”.

With any option for placing weigela, you must certainly take into account its characteristics, as well as light and other preferences that are important for the good growth and development of this beautiful ornamental shrub. Then he will please bright colors long years.

Many gardeners in Russia prefer to plant deciduous ornamental shrubs in their summer cottages, which add zest to the entire appearance - this weigela. Planting and caring for this shrub does not require much physical effort or time.

However, like any plant, this decorative beauty should also be cared for according to rules that you should consider carefully and determine for yourself whether you can cope with the task.

Weigela shrub: types and varieties

The Weigela genus has about 15 species, but only varieties that take root well in the summer cottages of Russian citizens are subject to consideration. These include:

Weigela early– from the name of this variety one can already assume that the bush begins to bloom in early spring. Indeed, you can admire the beauty of flowers already at the beginning of May. However, there is a small drawback in the presented variety -

The flowering period takes no more than 25 days

The bush itself reaches almost 2 meters in height and has a large number of leaves and then pale pink flowers. Distinctive feature This variety has gray bark. In most cases it is used as a hedge.

Weigel Middendorf- used by gardeners much more often, since this shrub reaches only 1.5 m in height, and

its flowering occurs 2 times per season, lasting at least 30 days at a time.

It has flowers of light shades - from creamy white to yellow with small orange streaks on the petals.

Weigela blooming– this variety is distinguished by its maximum height. When growing freely, flowering weigela can reach 3 meters in height. The flowering of the shrub begins in May-June and takes

at least 30 days

The flowers have an attractive pink hue with a white center.

Weigela Nana Variegata– can reach a height of 1.5 meters. The shrub pleases with its variegation

in June-July

The flowers are collected in inflorescences and have pale pink or deep pink shades. The peculiarity of the presented variety is the variegated color of the leaves, which adds great attractiveness to the variety.

Weigela Nana Purpurea- a miniature shrub reaching only 1 m in length. Pink and white-pink flowers appear in late May or early June and at proper care may survive

more than two months

The presented weigela variety is frost-resistant and can easily tolerate even harsh winters Russia, but in the presence of insulating material.

Weigela korean– reaches a height of no more than 1.5 meters and has inflorescences of buds in the shape of bells. Their shade changes color as they grow. At first the petals are white in color, but after a few days they acquire a rich color. pink color. The presented variety of weigela is more used as a hedge, which does not require special and attentive care. The Korean variety is not used to decorate a summer cottage, because

its flowering time does not exceed 15 days

Weigela profusely blooming– the shrub grows quickly and reaches a height of more than 3 meters. Flowering for these representatives begins in May, but

does not last more than 1 month

The peculiarity of the variety is the loss of bright color. If other varieties have pale shades at the beginning of flowering, and subsequently become more saturated, then the profusely flowering weigela first has a bright red tint in the flowers, which are replaced by a pale pink color.

When planting the described plant yourself, it is recommended to fully study all care features and further conditions of stay during the wintering period.

Flowering and types of weigela, video:

Photos of weigela:

weigela in landscape design

photo of weigela florida

planting and caring for weigela

photo of blooming weigela

Weigela: planting and care in open ground

Growing weigela on your own requires following basic rules that can help achieve maximum beauty of the shrub in the shortest possible time. All plant care consists of three stages: planting, growing, sheltering for the winter for preservation.

Each stage contains its own characteristics in which novice gardeners make mistakes. Of course, they do not lead to sad consequences, but the very fact of the absence of flowering, which most often follows in such situations, is significantly depressing and saddening.

General information on shrub care

Before delving into the details of plant care, you should consider its basic parameters. TO basic rules for caring for weigela of any variety include:

the shrub requires good lighting, only some varieties are ready to grow in partial shade;

Excess moisture is dangerous for the plant;

the soil must have average acidity for further productive flowering;

weigela should be fed regularly, observing the characteristics and parameters depending on the variety.

Even a novice gardener can observe these aspects. Making mistakes from the listed aspects can lead to the death of the plant if resuscitation measures are not taken.

About weigela care, video:

Correct planting of weigela

Start off weigela care follows already at the stage of its disembarkation. This process must be carried out in the spring in April, when the soil has already thawed. In some regions, planting is carried out in May, since there are long winters and the soil is frozen for a long time.

Beginning gardeners often make the mistake of planting a seedling in the fall. Despite big sizes seedlings, they often do not survive winter. And even no precautions or insulation help in this case.

As for the soil, it should be:

• loose and permeable;
• stagnation of water should not form in it;
• the soil must have a neutral pH.

Pay special attention to the choice of location. It is necessary to plant shrubs in places protected from the wind, with a slight elevation and good lighting. Without lighting, weigela will not begin to bloom, and a strong wind will cause the blooming buds to fall off ahead of time.

Land in the following sequence:

1. Prepare the soil if it does not meet the basic requirements for shrub growth. At high level If the soil is acidic, a liming procedure should be carried out - sprinkle slaked lime and dig up the area.
2. Now you should choose the right seedling when purchasing. To do this, carefully ensure that the young shrub is healthy, without visible damage to the bark of the trunk and branches, and with no rotten roots. It is better to purchase three-year-old seedlings.
3. Before planting, drainage should be placed in the prepared holes. Dig holes measuring 50x50 cm and approximately 40 cm deep. Place broken brick or gravel in a layer of at least 15 cm in the hole.
4. Mix the soil that you will subsequently bury the roots of the seedling with potassium salt and superphosphate in the amount of 40 g and 60 g, respectively. This is necessary so that the roots do not get burned when they come into contact with the fertilizer.
5. Before planting weigela, it is necessary to treat the roots with a solution designed to quickly root the seedling in the hole. Often they can be purchased at the nursery where the seedling itself was selected.
6. The roots of the seedling are well straightened, placed on the created drainage, sprinkled with pre-prepared soil and compacted well. Then the seedling must be watered well.
7. The final stage of planting weigela requires mulching the soil - laying out a layer of suitable bulk material of natural origin. Crushed bark or sawdust is suitable here. The radius of the filled soil must be at least 50 cm, the layer itself must be at least 10 cm.

If you are planting several seedlings, which is done much more often, then maintain a distance between plantings. Low-growing varieties are planted at a distance of 1 m, and tall varieties of shrubs - at least 2 m. Immediately after planting, it is necessary to comply with the conditions and rules for caring for the plant.

Proper care of weigela

Immediately after planting, weigela requires careful care., which consists of regular watering as the soil becomes dry and loosening to the depth of a standard shovel. Each time before loosening, the material used for mulching is removed and then new material is laid.

In the first 4-5 years of shrub growth after planting, such care must be carried out twice per season. In the future, such procedures will be reduced to a minimum.

Proper care of this ornamental shrub involves regular complementary feeding. There is no need to carry out such procedures in the first two years after planting. Here, the complementary feeding that was provided before disembarkation is sufficient.

In subsequent years, the bushes are fed according to the following scheme:

• In early spring, it is necessary to equip the soil with nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
• During the period of bud formation, potassium sulfate is used, which promotes lush flowering.
• The last feeding is carried out after flowering or before wintering in September-October. Any potash fertilizers are also used here.

Sometimes weigela needs to be transplanted. This may be necessary during a period of abundant growth of shoots or in order to change the place of cultivation. It is better to replant the shrub in the spring, since the roots of this plant are especially vulnerable and any change in location can harm the plant.

Transplanting weigela in autumn may end sadly. Over the winter, the roots will not only not take root, but will also die.

Proper pruning of weigela

Weigela should be trimmed in spring. At this time, you can remove damaged, dead or frozen branches in order to root the growth of young shoots. To do this, remove old shoots and cut off new ones, leaving the two lower ones.

If you leave the bush in its original form throughout the winter, the stronger branches will perfectly protect new shoots, which will lead to their further strengthening in spring and summer.

If pruning is required in the fall, then the basic rules should be followed. It should also be noted that the purpose of the presented process is to prepare the bush for winter. Certain insulation techniques may require correct form bush, which is what gardeners do by removing branches and shoots.
How to prune weigela in the fall:

Pay attention to this material - Decorative shrubs for the cottage and garden.

Prune the shrub to form a crown by trimming it to the required length using secateurs with an oblique cut. Make sure that there are buds on the shoot.

1. Before wintering, you can remove very old and dried branches. This is done almost at the roots themselves, leaving no more than 10-15 cm of shoot.
2. Keep an eye on your bush and do not allow it to grow freely, as this could cause any problems in the normal growth of the weigela.

Shrub pruning, video:

Proper shelter for winter weigela

Many gardeners make common mistakes because they do not know exactly how to cover weigela for the winter.

You will be interested in this article - Hydrangea: planting and care in open ground.

Firstly, back in October, when there is fallen leaves, the bush must be covered with it to a height of about 20 cm.

Secondly, you need to make sure that the snow that falls subsequently becomes an excellent protector for the plant. To do this, the branches are connected together and tied with twine. When tying, you need to tilt the bush down. You can also build a special wooden frame structure so that the snow cannot bend new branches.

Thirdly, if the region experiences little snowy winters, the entire bush should be covered with any insulating material that can be purchased in specialized stores.

You should not be afraid if the shrub freezes over the winter. Even if the appearance of buds did not occur during the allotted period for flowering, then at the end of summer, most likely, a variegation of colors will envelop the weigela.

Weigela propagation

It is better to propagate the presented ornamental shrub using green cuttings. It is necessary to separate them at the stage of “defrosting” the weigela, before new buds appear - the period is April-May, depending on the variety. Separate the cuttings using pruning shears, creating a straight cut and separating approximately 10-15 cm with two leaves.

After separation, the cuttings are treated with a special solution to stimulate root growth according to the instructions given.

Next, the cuttings are kept in a dark room at a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius for 12 hours. At the end of the time, they must be planted to a depth of half a centimeter in a sand-peat mixture, sprinkle the planting site with sand and cover with polyethylene. Roots appear only after a month, but replant weigela You can move to a new place only after a year and a half has passed.

Weigela is practically not susceptible to pests or diseases. An exception may be infection from other plants growing in a summer cottage.

By observing all the given features of growing this ornamental shrub yourself, you will never wonder: why doesn't weigela bloom?. After all, it is often failure to comply with basic standards and principles for caring for a plant that leads to such dismal results.

Serious mistakes often lead to the death of the entire bush, so if you notice any unpleasant and negative changes in the growth of weigela, take appropriate measures.

Weigela is a deciduous shrub of the honeysuckle family. Wild varieties live in eastern and southeastern Asia, the Far East and the island of Java. Decorative weigela is very popular in Europe, where it often decorates homestead areas, parks and gardens. In our climatic conditions, gardeners can rightfully be proud of the presence of weigela on their site, since not everyone is able to grow and preserve a flowering plant.

Features of growing weigela

To grow this shrub, it is not enough to choose the right variety; it is important to take into account the characteristics of the microclimate and provide the weigela with proper care. Decorative weigela is moisture-loving and loves well-lit spaces, although it takes root well in the shade of sparse tree crowns. True, flowering in the shade will be weak, and the seeds will ripen late. The flower does not tolerate wind, especially from the north, so you need to choose protected places for growing.

In garden design, weigels are planted in hedges, in clumps or singly; low-growing species look great on alpine hills. Weigels can be combined into groups, mixed with other shrubs (barberry, spirea, buldenezh) or with junipers.

With proper care, weigela can bloom twice a year - in May-June and in August-September. The second flowering is not very lush, but at the end of May the branches are completely covered with white, yellow, pink or red bell flowers. The color of the petals of this flower changes: young inflorescences gradually acquire a rich color.

Landing

Weigela is planted in the ground in the spring. The earth should warm up, but the buds are not yet swelling at this time. After autumn planting shrubs often die in the first winter. Find an elevated, well-lit area on the south side of the house. Please note that in a draft, the shrub is unlikely to bloom or will fall off at the bud stage.

Weigels love loose and rich soil with humus - loamy or sandy loam with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. Of all the types of shrubs, only Middendorf's weigela grows on peaty soil. Seedlings older than three years are suitable for planting.

Ways to plant weigela

Weigela needs loose and permeable soil. Excessive moisture for shrubs is contraindicated; do not plant bushes in areas where water stagnates for a long time after floods or groundwater fit too high. Make acidic soil before planting the bush (in autumn).

Advice. Many seedlings do not take root when planted in autumn, so postpone the procedure until early spring, burying the seedlings at an angle and covering most of the crown with soil.

When preparing a hole for planting, the quality of the soil is taken into account. In rich soil, a depression of 30-40 cm is sufficient; if the soil is poor, the depth should be increased. Create improved conditions for the plant by placing on the bottom:

• drainage (15 cm of broken bricks, sand or gravel),
• a layer of fertile soil fertilized with nitrophoska (100 g per 1.5 buckets of compost).

The bush will take root easier if you treat the roots with a root formation stimulator.

Large varieties of weigela require free space so that they can develop normally. When planting several bushes, place them at a distance of at least one and a half meters. For small varieties, a gap of 70-80 centimeters will be quite sufficient.

Carefully straighten the roots of the seedling and make sure that no voids form when you fill the soil.

Attention! Do not bury the root collar more than 2 centimeters, so that after the soil settles it will be flush with the surface.

When the seedlings are placed in the ground, water thoroughly and mulch the area. The seedlings should be watered abundantly for another 3-4 days. If the summer is dry, water the young bushes regularly; next year the watering may be more moderate.

Weigela care

Caring for weigela is easy: moderate watering, removing weeds, loosening the soil, fertilizing and pruning. This plant needs no more attention than many other flowering shrubs.

In a mulched area, frequent watering is not required. After a winter with little snow, especially if the shoots are frozen, in the spring the bushes are watered abundantly - 10 liters of water for each plant. The same watering regime is followed in dry, hot summers - a bucket of water every week. To provide air access to the root system and remove weeds, carefully loosen the soil around the bush without damaging the roots.

Important! If the bush is located in a dry area, aphids can settle on it, affecting the leaves and young branches. Keep an eye on the plant and regularly wash it with a strong stream of water.

Feeding and fertilizer

If, when planting bushes, you added nitrophoska and compost to the soil, you do not need to apply fertilizer in the next two years. In the third year, you should begin to stimulate the growth of leaves and shoots. To do this in the spring, when the snow has not yet completely melted, it is advisable to apply fertilizer under the bushes:

• urea - 20 g/sq.m;
• superphosphate - 10 g/sq.m;
• potassium salt - 10 g/sq.m.

You can fertilize with ammophoska, diammophoska, Kemira-Lux or other fertilizer with phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen.

The second feeding will be useful when developing buds at the end of spring. Superphosphate (30 g per bush) is suitable. After this, the weigela will bloom luxuriantly, and the branches will strengthen for winter.

Before autumn digging, carry out a third feeding with wood ash (200 g per square meter). “Kemira – Autumn” works well, the dosage is indicated in the instructions.

Attention! After each feeding, water the bush generously and spray with soapy water and alcohol.

Weigela pruning

Weigela, like all shrubs, needs regular pruning. Sanitary pruning is carried out on young bushes. In early spring, cut off frozen, broken and unnecessary branches.

Mature plants require pruning to form a bush. When the first flowering ends, carefully trim the plant. This must be done before new shoots appear, on which flowers will bloom at the end of summer. If you were unable to prune the bush in time, skip the summer trimming, otherwise there will be no second flowering.

The third pruning is carried out once every three or four years to rejuvenate the bush. Remove all old branches (3 years or more), and shorten by a third. Stimulating pruning promotes the appearance of young shoots and prevents diseases that could settle in the bark of old branches. You can give the weigele a radical shake-up by cutting off all the shoots - after which the bush will quickly recover.

Advice. Between spring and autumn flowering, lighten mature bushes by trimming old shoots at the base.

Weigela transplant

Do not take literally the recommendations to replant plants, especially garden ones, in the spring. We are talking about replanting only when absolutely necessary: ​​in case of an unsuccessfully chosen location, unsuitable soil, shade, etc. If replanting is necessary, it should be done in the spring, but do not replant the plants every year.

Dig out the weigela very carefully, try to preserve the roots as much as possible. Clean and inspect the root system, check for signs of disease, decay, plaque and other pathological changes. If you see that the roots are very damaged, there is no point in replanting the bush; it is better to grow a new plant from a cutting.

Advice. If you dig up a plant and find that its roots are intertwined in a tangle, try to untangle them without damaging them.

Do not replant the bush in the fall, since the probability of survival in this case is too low - the roots will not be able to take root and will die.

Weigela propagation

The shrub can be propagated by seeds, cuttings and layering.

Propagation by seeds

The seeds ripen in September, by November the capsules crack and you can begin collecting seed material. Tie a few seed pods with gauze and cut them off when the seeds are completely ripe. Shake the contents onto paper and dry. Place the dried seeds in a paper bag and set aside in a dark, dry place until spring. The seeds remain viable for 1-2 years, but weigels grown from seeds almost never retain the varietal characteristics of their parent.

At home, you can sow seeds in a pot and create greenhouse conditions for them. In spring the shoots will emerge; leave the strongest ones until next year. Then the seedlings can be transplanted into a schoolhouse or planted under an adult bush for two years. The process, as you can see, is complex and long, and the result is unpredictable. We recommend propagating weigela vegetatively.

Vegetative propagation

It is much easier to propagate weigela with young green shoots, semi-lignified cuttings, shoots from a stump and layering.

Green cuttings

Cut off the young shoots of the current year, cut off the leaves completely or leave half the leaf blade. Treat one edge of the cutting with a root formation stimulator.

The green cuttings are planted at the end of June. Prepare the soil from peat with sand, the top layer is sand (3 cm). It is enough to deepen the cutting by 1 cm and cover it with a cut plastic bottle or film. Every day, let the cuttings breathe by raising the cover for several hours. The probability of rooting of a green cutting is very high, there are almost no failures.

Weigela grown in this way begins to bloom after two years. In order for the plant to develop more actively, it is recommended to cut off the buds.

Last year's cuttings

In early spring, cut off the semi-lignified cuttings. This must be done before the leaves begin to bloom. Treat the end with a rooting stimulator. You can plant the cuttings in a pot or in open ground. In the second case, choose a slightly shaded place. Cover the cutting with a jar and ventilate it daily. Growing weigela from a semi-lignified cutting is somewhat more difficult than from a green shoot. If a new shoot appears after a month, it means that rooting has occurred and the cutting can be pinched.

Young shoots from a stump

With this method of propagation, rooting occurs in the same way as in the cases described above.

Layerings

This shrub, like many others, often grows branches inclined to the ground. Bend such a shoot and scratch the bark where it touches the soil. Lubricate with root formation stimulator, pin and sprinkle with soil. Next year you will receive a full-fledged seedling. Disconnect the cuttings from the bush and place them in the designated place.

Dividing the bush

This method is usually used to propagate herbaceous plants, but shrubs can also be divided if they have grown too much, or when transplanting.

Dig up the bush during the dormant period and wash it off the ground. Divide the plant into parts; young roots along the edges of the bush are suitable for propagation. Before planting, trim all branches so that the root system can develop without unnecessary stress. Plants after division are immediately planted in the ground.

Weigela flowering

Many varieties of this shrub are good not only for their bright tubular bell flowers, but also for their leaves. Weigela foliage is velvety, green or purple, with a white border. But the main advantage of this species is still its abundant twice flowering. Weigels bloom for the first time on last year's shoots, and the second flowering occurs on young branches. Autumn flowering is not as active as spring, but still a bush strewn with fluffy flowers looks extremely impressive. Flowers in pockets of leaves are collected in inflorescences on the tops of the shoots. The size of each flower can reach five centimeters.

Problems, diseases, pests

Weigela rarely gets sick and is resistant to pests, but if there are signs of damage, urgent measures must be taken. The disease is indicated by the active falling of leaves, the appearance white plaque, spots of yellow or purple color.

Common pests of shrubs are aphids and scale insects. A timely detected problem can be easily eliminated after two treatments of the crown with any insecticide. Infusions of hot pepper, garlic or potato tops are also effective. Leaf spotting is treated with fungicides, a mixture of lime milk and copper sulfate or Topsin.

If the seedlings turn yellow and wither, it is possible that their roots are damaged by the larvae of mole crickets or chafers brought in with the compost. Water the soil with karbofos or actara.

It is much more difficult to overcome bacterial root canker, in which round swellings appear on the roots and harden over time. Unfortunately, we have not yet learned how to fight this disease and it is better to remove the bush before neighboring plants become infected.

Popular types

Veigela Alexandra

Veigela Alexandra

The bush reaches one and a half meters. This species has burgundy-colored leaves and red-pink flowers. This species feels good in the middle zone. Shoots quickly recover after freezing.

Weigela Nana variegata

Weigela Nana variegata

A dwarf shrub with variegated leaves and clusters of white, pink or crimson flowers. Slow growth, suitable for rocky gardens.

Weigela variegum

Weigela variegum

The leaves of this type of weigela are distinguished by a white border on the edges of the leaves. Reaches one and a half meters in height.

Weigela red

Weigela red

A purple variety with a dense crown. Red-brown leaves and richly colored flowers with yellow throats make this species especially popular.

Weigela yellow

Weigela yellow

Or Weigela Middendorf - the most winter-hardy species, suitable for growing in open spaces and under trees.

Weigela hybrida

Weigela hybrida

A group of weigela obtained as a result of hybridization. They are most adapted to the climate of the southern territories. The color of leaves and inflorescences is varied. Weigela flowers in the wild are odorless, but hybridization has made it possible to endow the inflorescences with a subtle aroma.

• In winter, weigela bushes freeze above the level of snow cover, so choose a place on the site where the snowdrifts are high.
• After snowfalls and in the spring, when the snow becomes heavy, shake off the weigela branches to prevent them from breaking off.

It is useful to treat the bush with infusions:

• onion peel (200 g leave for 5 days in 10 liters of water);
• garlic (300 g of crushed, unpeeled garlic, soak for 24 hours in 10 liters of water);
• potato tops (1 kg pour 10 liters of hot water and leave for 2 hours).

Spraying of plants is carried out in the evening.

Answers on questions

How long does a shrub live?

If you managed to create favorable conditions and organize good care, the shrub can live up to 50 years.

Why doesn't weigela bloom?

The plant may not bloom in the shade; due to lack of light, the shoots become woody, and flowering becomes very scarce or completely absent. Another reason is insufficient watering and lack of fertilizing. If these obstacles are excluded, pay attention to the root system; it may be damaged by pests.

How should the bush be cared for in winter?

After leaf fall, in October-November, the tree trunk area must be sprinkled with soil to a height of 20 cm. Bend the branches to the ground and press, being careful not to damage them. Cover the bush with roofing felt (spunbond) and strengthen the “roof” so that the wind does not tear it off in winter. The branches can not be bent, but tied together with twine, and the bush can be fenced with a net. Place dry leaves and spruce branches inside this structure. Properly insulate the structure. If weigela is left unprotected, the shoots will die in frost and flowering will not occur.

Weigela is directly related to the honeysuckle family. This plant is represented by shrubs. The plant was named after the German Christian Ehrenfried von Weigel, who was a botanist, chemist and pharmacologist. Under natural conditions, this plant is found in the eastern and southeastern parts of Asia, the Far East and the island of Java. The genus includes 15 species represented by deciduous shrubs. Only 7 species and 10 varieties are cultivated, which are highly decorative. Weigela not only has a very spectacular appearance, but is relatively unpretentious and can be easily propagated.

Features of weigela

The plant loves moisture and grows quite well in the shade. This erect shrub does not form stolons. Petiolate oppositely located leaf plates do not have stipules, they are serrated or serrate. The length of the bell-shaped or funnel-shaped flowers is about 5 centimeters. The flowers are solitary or part of loose inflorescences. They can be colored cream, carmine red, pink, yellow and other colors, and often during flowering the color changes from a paler shade to a brighter one. The fruits are presented in a two-leaf capsule, inside of which there are small seeds.

Planting weigela

What time to plant

The best time to plant weigela is spring. In this case, you need to have time to plant the plant before the buds swell, but the earth should already warm up, in which case it will take off very well. Shrubs planted in autumn die during their first wintering.

It is best to choose a place for planting at an elevation, and it should be protected from drafts and north winds, which can cause flowers and buds to fall off. It is better to plant weigela on the south side of the building. At good lighting The flowers are very bright and the blooms are abundant. For planting you need loose soil with a lot of humus. Loamy or clay soil, neutral or slightly alkaline, is suitable. It is worth considering that Middendorff weigela (Weigela middendorffiana) can be planted in peaty, slightly acidic soil. The planted seedling must be at least 3 years old.

How to plant

The depth of the planting hole is from 30 to 40 centimeters. If the soil is infertile, then the hole should be made deeper, because on the drainage layer (height 15 centimeters), which can be made from gravel, fragments of brick or sand, a layer of soil enriched with nutrients should be laid (1.5 buckets of compost plus 100 grams of nitrophoska ). The fertilizer should be mixed well with the compost. In order for the seedling to take root better, its roots can be treated with a substance that stimulates root growth (Viva+ or Radifarm).

If the weigela seedling is of a medium-sized variety (no higher than 100 centimeters), then a distance of at least 80 centimeters should be left between the bushes; the gaps between bushes of high varieties (height up to 250 centimeters) should be from 150 to 200 centimeters. During planting, do not forget to straighten the roots of the seedling; the soil will need to be gradually poured into the hole and compacted in order to eliminate the possibility of voids forming. You can deepen the root collar only 10–20 mm, but it is desirable that when the soil settles after watering, it is flush with the ground. The planted plant should be watered well, and the surface of the soil should be sprinkled with a layer of mulch.

Weigela care

Spring

Growing such a shrub is easy, and even a beginner can handle it. Weigela needs to be watered only during dry periods, and a large amount of water is used (if the tree trunk circle is mulched, then watering will be more rare). It is also necessary to carry out timely weeding and loosening of the soil, which is done very carefully with only half a shovel, otherwise the root system can be damaged. You also need to feed the plant in a timely manner, and if during planting in the hole you added nitrophoska and compost, then the bush will not need feeding for 2 years. In the third year, at the beginning of spring, weigela needs to be fed; for this, complete mineral fertilizer is added to the soil, for example: diammofoska, ammofoska, Kemira-lux or other fertilizers that contain potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen. In the last days of spring or the first days of summer during budding, it is necessary to carry out a second feeding, in which case you need to take phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (potassium sulfate, superphosphate, etc.). Thanks to this, the plant will bloom long and abundantly, and the branches will also be strengthened, which is good for wintering. The third time the bush is fed during digging in the fall, while taking wood ash(for 1 m2 you will need 200 g of fertilizer). You can use Kemira-autumn fertilizer for this purpose, and the dosage should be checked in the instructions.

Bloom

This shrub blooms 2 times per season. The first lush flowering is observed from the second half of May to mid-June, with flowers appearing on last year's shoots. The shrub blooms for the second time in August and blooms until September. At the same time, flowering is less abundant than in spring, and flowers grow on the shoots of the current year. During flowering, the plant looks very impressive.

Weigela propagation

The plant can be propagated quite simply by seeds. It is worth considering that their germination capacity lasts only for 1–2 years, so sow the seeds in boxes or greenhouses experienced gardeners not recommended. The easiest way to propagate weigela is by self-sowing. In the spring, when shoots appear from the seeds that have fallen into the ground, it will be necessary to select the strongest ones and remove the rest. They will need rearing, which lasts 2 years, only after which they can be transplanted to a permanent place. But it must be taken into account that with this method of propagation, varietal characteristics are not always preserved. In this regard, gardeners with considerable experience recommend propagation by a vegetative method, namely: layering, young shoots from a stump, as well as summer green or last year’s semi-lignified cuttings. To cut cuttings, the length of which should be from 10 to 15 centimeters, you should choose green shoots of the current year (cut in the last days of June) or last year's semi-lignified shoots (cut before sap flow begins), or you can cut the basal shoots. The leaf plates located at the bottom of the cuttings must be torn off, while the upper ones must be shortened by ½ part. The cut at the bottom must be dipped in Kornevin. The cuttings are planted in soil consisting of peat and sand, and its surface should be covered with a layer of sand equal to 4 centimeters. The cutting should be deepened only 10 mm, no more. Each plant should be covered with a cut plastic bottle or glass jar. The shelter needs to be removed every day for some time for ventilation and watering. Young shoots that appear need to be pinched to make the plant bushier.

Layers should be propagated differently. Select the strongest lower shoot and bend it to the surface of the soil. At the point of contact with the ground on the shoot, you need to cut the bark a little. Then it is fixed on the surface of the soil and sprinkled with soil. Already next spring the cuttings will take root completely. Layers and cuttings can be transplanted to a permanent place only at the age of three.

How to trim correctly

Weigela, like all shrubs, needs pruning. Young bushes need pruning only for sanitary purposes. To do this, at the beginning of spring you need to cut off those branches that thicken the plant, as well as sick, injured and frost-damaged branches. More mature plants need formative pruning; it should be done after the weigela blooms for the first time (in the middle of the summer period), while young shoots should not yet grow. It is worth remembering that during re-blooming, flowers appear on the shoots of the current year. In this regard, if you did not carry out formative pruning on time, and new branches begin to grow, then it is recommended to postpone it until next year. Mature shrubs require anti-aging pruning, carried out once every 3 years, in which case all branches that are more than 3 years old need to be cut off, and those that remain should be cut off by 1/3. In some cases, it may be necessary to cut off all branches; after this pruning, the weigela is restored very well.

Diseases and pests

Leaf-eating caterpillars and aphids often settle on this shrub. During a long period of heat and drought, thrips or spider mites can settle on the plant. However, by the beginning of the drought period, the weigela has already finished its first flowering. In order to destroy these harmful insects, it is recommended to use pesticides such as: nitrafen, rogor or keltan, but it is worth considering that they are harmful environment. There are more harmless means to combat harmful insects - these are insecticidal infusions prepared from plants such as hot pepper, wormwood or garlic. If the planted seedlings turn yellow and begin to wither, this is most likely due to the fact that mole crickets have entered the root system or the larvae of the cockchafer have settled. They could get into the soil along with compost or humus during planting. To destroy them, you need to water the bush with a solution of actara or karbofos.

Weigela most often suffers from gray rot, rust, and spotting. In order to get rid of a fungal or bacterial disease, you need to treat the bush with Bordeaux mixture (copper sulfate mixed with milk of lime). For preventive purposes, you can treat the plant when the leaves appear with Topsin solution (3%).

Weigela after flowering

Seed collection

Seeds ripen in September and are collected in October, after the capsules begin to crack. In order to prevent the seeds from spilling onto the surface of the soil, it is necessary to wrap several pieces of testes with gauze cloth back in September and fix it on the branch. After the box has matured, you need to carefully trim it and bring it indoors. There you can remove the gauze and pour the seeds onto a newspaper. After the seeds have dried, they need to be poured into a paper bag, on which do not forget to mark the name of the plant, its variety and the date when the seeds were collected. They must be placed in a dark, dry place, where they will be stored until the onset of spring. It should be remembered that the seeds are stored good germination only for 1–2 years, while shrubs grown from seeds may not retain the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Wintering

After the end of leaf fall (in the last days of October or the first days of November), you need to fill the trunk circle of the bush with a layer of soil, and the height of the mound should be from 15 to 20 centimeters. It is recommended to bend the branches to the surface of the soil and secure them. The top of the bush is covered with spunbond or roofing felt, while the cover is pressed down so that it is not blown away by the wind. You can not bend the branches, but tie them with twine or rope, pulling them well. Enclose the plant with a plastic or metal mesh. Dry fallen leaves must be poured inside the resulting structure. The structure must be insulated on top with a dense covering material.

Main types and varieties with photos and names

For gardeners in mid-latitudes, weigela varieties that are resistant to frost are most suitable. These include the species and varieties described below.

Early weigela, or pleasant weigela (Weigela praecox)

Under natural conditions it grows in the Far East. The bush reaches a height of about 200 centimeters. There is pubescence on the surface of the foliage. The crown is spherical in shape. The outer part of the flowers is deep pink. The inflorescences consist of 2 or 3 flowers, and they grow on the side shoots of the current year. It happens that the throat of the flower has a white-yellow color, while the flowers in the buds are purple. Flowering begins in the last days of May and lasts from 10 to 30 days. The variegated variety of Weigela variegata is of the greatest interest. On the surface of the green leaf blades there are spots of yellow color; in the summer they acquire a cream color.

Weigela florida (Weigela florida)

The bush reaches 300 centimeters in height. There are 2 rows of hairs on the surface of the shoots. Short-petioled serrate leaf plates on the front side have pubescence located along the central vein, while on the reverse surface all veins have pubescence. The inflorescences consist of 3 or 4 flowers, colored deep pink, which open in the last days of May. Flowering lasts approximately 20 days.

Popular shapes:

1. Weigela purple, or red weigela (Weigela Purpurea). The height of the bush is about 150 centimeters, there is a lush crown. The leaf blades are brownish-red in color, the bright pink flowers have a yellow throat. Flowering occurs in June and July. The variety Nana Purpurea is very similar to weigela purpurea, but the bush is smaller in size.
2. Alba. This is a dwarf form. White flowers turn pink as they wilt.
3. Variegata. This form is very beautiful and the most frost-resistant. Has small leaves. Racemose inflorescences consist of rich pink flowers.
4. Weigela florida Bunge. Outside surface The flowers are carmine pink, and the inner one is almost white.
5. Weigela florida Victoria. The height of the bush is about 100 centimeters. The foliage is brownish-red and the flowers are purplish in color.

Weigela hybrida

It has a spreading crown and lush flowering. The height of the bush is about 150 centimeters. The fragrant flowers have a funnel-tubular shape; they can be part of loose inflorescences or be solitary. Depending on the variety, the color of the flowers can be pink, lilac, purple, white, violet-red.

Popular varieties:

1. Bristol Ruby. The variety appeared in 1941 in the USA. The bush can reach a height of 250–300 centimeters, while the diameter of its crown is 350 centimeters. The leaves have a rich green color. Pink flowers have ruby ​​red edges, sometimes their centers are colored Orange color. This fast growing plant begins to bloom in the last days of June.
2. Red Prince. The variety was bred in the USA. The compact bush can reach 150 centimeters in height. It has a spreading crown and drooping branches. Bright red flowers look very beautiful against the background of green leaves.

Weigela middendorffiana

The height of the bush can vary from 100 to 150 centimeters. Ascending shoots. Large (3 to 4 centimeters) yellow flowers have orange spots in the throat. They are part of few-flowered inflorescences of 2–6 pieces or are single. Flowering occurs twice per season.

Also quite often, gardeners grow abundantly flowering weigela, pleasant weigela, early weigela, Japanese weigela, garden weigela, Maximovich weigela and Korean weigela.

A flowering shrub with a beautiful name seems exotic to our gardeners, but in fact it deserves to take a place in the flowerbed both by right of origin and due to its beauty. If you do not yet enjoy lush flowering and fragrance, be sure to get acquainted with weigela, because planting in open ground and caring for it is not as difficult as it seems.

The role of weigela in landscape design

Weigela is perennial shrub, related to honeysuckle.

Landscape designers love weigela for two features. Firstly, this shrub blooms twice a year, so it is easier to create a flowerbed with continuous flowering. The second highlight is the change in the shade of the flowers. Newly opened buds are light, and fully open buds are bright. Weigela simply amazes with the play of shades in each flower cluster.

A lush tall weigela bush looks great against the background of the lawn

Usually weigela begins to bloom in mid-May and ends only in mid-June. Summer flowering is the most beautiful and lush; often the greenery is not visible at all behind the buds. At the end of August, the bush is again covered with inflorescences, but on a more modest scale. Flowers remain on weigel until the very end of September.

Landscape designers use this shrub:

• in single plantings as a bright accent on the lawn;

  The weigela standard looks no worse than pink

• in group plantings to cover bare tree trunks, especially with an openwork crown;

  The slightly disheveled weigela bush contrasts perfectly with the tall cone of the spruce

• on alpine hills and rockeries (mainly low-growing varieties);

  Dwarf weigela will become a bright spot against the background of rough cobblestones

• as a hedge (tall) and mixborder (low and medium height).

  Even a low weigela hedge can transform a boring gray fence

That is, weigela can also be useful in almost any role played by other ornamental shrubs. By the way, thanks varietal diversity shrubs, you can create beautiful compositions from different subspecies of weigel.

The plant grows well next to traditional rockeries coniferous species, as well as other shrubs: spirea, cotoneaster, viburnum (preferably Buldenezh), barberry, Japanese quince.

Climatic requirements

In nature, weigela grows in Central Asia, more than 15 varieties of this plant were found there. Only three species are found on the territory of the Russian Federation, all of them grow in the southeast of the country.

If you come across Weigela early, Middendorf or pleasant for sale, know that these are wild species. They will grow well in the Far East, but are not adapted to harsher climates.

Varietal weigels came to us from Europe, where they were popularized by a professor of botany named von Weigel. Therefore, they are quite resistant to cold climates and feel great in the middle zone of the Russian Federation in the open air.

Automating watering of weigela is a great way to provide the moisture-loving plant with the correct humidity regime.

Weigela prefers fertile soil with a lot of humus, an alkaline or neutral reaction and good aeration (loose or loosened). It is extremely important to avoid overwatering, otherwise the plant, accustomed to a drier climate, will quickly die.

If your region has acidic soil or you cannot provide weigela with the correct moisture conditions, it is better to grow this shrub in a tub. If there is a fairly dry place on the site and you are ready, if necessary, to apply the necessary fertilizers and regulate the soil reaction, planting in the ground is quite acceptable.

Usually weigela grows in a tub only until the age of three.

Popular varieties

Weigela is incredibly diverse in flower color and shape, bush height and crown characteristics. Thanks to the efforts of specialists, every gardener can find a variety of this shrub that fully meets his needs and tastes. Among the most famous subspecies of weigela are:

• Bristol Ruby is a tall subspecies of hybrid origin. Well suited for single plantings and hedges, it grows up to 2.3 m in diameter and up to 3.5 m in height. It got its name because of the red-ruby flowers that bloom in June-July. Recovers quickly after pruning;
• Nana Variegata is a dwarf variety with slow growth, bred specifically for rockeries. The leaves are white-variegated, and this is a marker of light-loving varieties. The flowers are collected in inflorescences of 3–4, have a pale pink or crimson color;
• Middendorfa is a natural type of medium-sized shrub (1–1.5 m). The leaves are bright green with double-sided pubescence along the veins. The flowers are medium yellow, growing singly or 2–6 on one peduncle. It blooms twice, in our climate for 25–30 days. Weigela Middendorf is the only subspecies that easily tolerates acidic soil reaction and grows on peaty soil;
• Candida is a tall variety with white flowers. Popular with foreign gardeners.
• Eva Rathke is a Polish hybrid of Korean and free-flowering weigela. The bush has a height of 0.7–1 m, the crown is compact. Tubular, carmine-colored flowers with shine appear in July-August. The growth rate is moderate. Needs shelter for the winter.

The most beautiful varieties of weigela in the photo

The natural form of Korean Weigela is one of the few varieties that can be propagated by seeds Large ruby ​​bells in small inflorescences are the calling card of Bristol Ruby weigela Dwarf weigela Nana Variegata looks very gentle and romantic The Nana Purpurea variety is easily recognized by its purple flowers against the background of dark burgundy-green leaves Weigela Red Prince is distinguished not so much by red flowers as by characteristic wavy leaves. Pink flowers with an elongated funnel and dark reddish leaves confirm that this is weigela Alexandra. Nature itself endowed weigela Middendorf with such graceful white flowers with a contrasting center. Weigela Candida with its white flowers will definitely appeal to lovers jasmine and mock orange At first glance, Eva Rathke looks like the Red Prince, but she is given away by flatter leaf blades Weigela Carnival is just a holiday in shades of pink The Sunny Princess variety is one of the most gentle and noble Weigela Victoria is related to Alexandra, only her flower funnels are shorter and wider leaves Ruby Star is not just another variety with red flowers, the tone of its petals contrasts less with the shade of the foliage Japanese weigela - another natural masterpiece You can recognize the Olympic variety by its fuchsia petals and the bright light green tone of its wide leaf blades Variegated weigela stands out among its relatives, the light edging of the leaf plates of Weigela All Samme Red strongly resembles Bristol Ruby, but it can be distinguished by its rich red flowers without a crimson undertone Sunny Princess is not always soft pink, it can be bright This weigela can definitely become the star of your flowerbed Japanese weigela always ready to surprise with the variety of forms Weigela Olympics is notable for its yellow-green tint of leaves White flowers with a pink center go well with the variegated leaves of this weigela It’s easy to notice that Alexandra and Victoria are close relatives of the Minor Black variety Weigela Rosea - this is a girl’s dream come true Weigela Ebony and Ivory - this is a harmonious combination of ivory-colored flowers and almost ebony shoots with dark leaves Weigela Monet looks very decorative even when there are no flowers on it The fragrance of weigela Tango will lift your spirits no worse than the dance of the same name In autumn, weigela Wings of Fire really resembles a burning fire Young leaves of weigela Victoria have an olive color and only darken over time Weigela Pink Poppet during the flowering period will outshine any rose in beauty Despite the negative associations with the name, weigela Lucifer is a luxuriously beautiful shrub Brighella is a classic representative of the weigela species, and it is with this that the first associations arise at the mention of this word. Even if you don’t like pink shades, the flowering of weigela in Florida will not leave you indifferent. Another pink weigela with a dance name - Minuet In this variety, the creators tried to enhance the contrast between white flowers and dark leaves. If the Alexandra and Victoria varieties are too cheerful for you, weigela Minor Black will help create a gothic atmosphere

For all types of weigela, the opposite arrangement of leaves, the absence of stipules, the funnel- or bell-shaped flowers, the erect position of the shoots and the fruits in the form of bivalve boxes remain common. By these signs you can easily recognize relatives, even if other parameters vary greatly.

Video about types and varieties of shrubs

Methods of planting in open ground

Planting weigela traditionally begins with choosing suitable place. It should be sunny or located in weak partial shade; this southeastern beauty does not like strong shading. Light-loving varieties with edging on the leaves are planted only in a sunny place. Another important point- wind. There must be protection from it (a building, a fence, less sensitive shrubs), otherwise strong gusts will scatter flowers and foliage.

We plant weigela seedlings:

1. Dig a hole 50x50 cm and half a meter deep in the selected location. For regions with fertile soil, where active fertilizing is not required, a hole depth of 40 cm is recommended. If there are several seedlings, make sure that the distance between them is 2 m for tall varieties and 0.8 m for short ones, since over time the bush forms a lush crown.

   If possible, try to clear the area of ​​weed roots in advance.

2. Place drainage at the bottom of the hole - layers of gravel and sand. The layer thickness is about 15 cm, it is better not to reduce it.

   Any stones, fragments of bricks or ceramics of a suitable size can be used as drainage

3. Place the seedling in the hole and carefully cover it with a soil mixture of 2 parts humus/leaf soil, 2 parts sand and 1 part turf soil. If your garden does not have sufficiently fertile soil, add 100 g of nitrophoska and 15 liters of compost to the soil mixture for each bush. Compact the soil manually and lightly (weigela roots feel better in loose soil). The root collar should be at ground level.

   If your weigela is grown in a container, you do not need to free the roots from the ground; plant it together with the lump

4. Water the plants generously and mulch the root circle.

   If there is enough water, the puddle will be absorbed into the ground for quite a long time

Three-year-old seedlings from a nursery are best suited for this method; younger plants are not yet ready to grow in the open air without additional supervision.

If experience suggests that the survival rate of plants in your garden is low, you can treat weigela with a growth stimulator (Radifarm, Viva+).

Weigela care in the garden

If you know the basic needs of weigela, caring for it becomes not too difficult.

Firstly, the plant needs constant aeration, so the soil in the tree trunk circle needs to be loosened regularly. After watering or weeding, it is imperative to cultivate the soil to a depth of 5–8 cm. Since not every garden owner can devote so much time to an individual bush, you can find an easier way out - mulch the tree trunk circle with peat or sawdust. If the mulch layer is 10 cm, the need for frequent loosening will completely disappear.

Sawdust, pine needles, bark chips are excellent mulching materials.

The root system of weigela is fibrous (without a clearly defined central root going deep), but it diverges to the sides not too close to the surface. Therefore, when loosening, you can be sure that when the shovel bayonet is completely buried, you will not damage the roots.

Second need - water procedures. It is especially important to water weigela during periods of drought and in the spring after a winter with little snow. You shouldn’t skimp on moisture - each bush needs a bucket of water for 8–10 liters.

When pruning, be sure to keep in mind that the plant reacts differently to each type of pruning.

The third stage of caring procedures is pruning. The annual one is carried out in the spring to remove branches that have frozen over the winter. You only need to form a bush once every 2-3 years.

Video: pruning a young plant

How to care during growth and flowering

To help weigela prepare for lush spring flowering, it needs to be fed. Mineral fertilizers are applied while still in the snow, so that when the plant awakens, it can immediately take advantage of the beneficial elements. Urea (20 g per m2), superphosphate and potassium salt (10 g per m2) are used as top dressing.

The time for the second treat comes at the moment of flower bud formation. Then weigela needs double superphosphate and potassium sulfate (30 g per 1 bush or 1 m2 of area). The third feeding is carried out before autumn digging and consists of ash (200 g per 1 m2) or a specialized composition (for example, “Kemira-autumn”).

Weigela responds well to universal fertilizers

After fertilizing, the plants should be watered very generously.

Once, several ornamental bushes died due to too much fertilizing. I so wanted there to be more flowers that I carried out additional treatment with mineral fertilizers with a high concentration. I myself don’t understand how I, having additional education as a chemical analysis laboratory assistant, could be so careless about chemicals. But the shameful result in the form of three the shabby skeletons of once strong bushes worked more effectively than any lectures, exams and an additional tub of cold water. After that, I try to never forget that any feeding is serious. chemical experiment, no matter how ordinary it may look. I even got myself a notebook with observations and always write down what I did and when in my kindergarten, so as not to allow such annoying situations to happen again, not from excess enthusiasm, but simply from forgetfulness.

Care after flowering

Immediately after flowering ends, the best time comes for formative pruning of weigela. In this case, old shoots are removed, and young shoots are shortened by half. The repeated procedure is postponed for 2 or even 3 years. Further work is carried out according to the calendar, taking into account the weather, climate of your region and the condition of the plants.

One of the most difficult tasks in caring for weigela is to properly prepare the heat-loving plant for winter. As they say, it's better to be safe than sorry here. Gardeners use two methods of covering: with branches pressed and collected.

If necessary, protect the bush from the weight of snow, you can make a frame of crossed sticks under the covering material

Low-growing and young shrubs are “spread out” on the ground for the winter, carefully bending the branches and fixing them so that they do not straighten out. Such a mound can be framed with mulch and covered with a waterproof material of your choice (from spandex to film), and then the shelter can be fixed. It is convenient to do this on top with spruce branches and around the bush with stones.

This winter shelter is enough for the middle zone

Tall bushes with woody branches are easy to break with this approach, so they are covered in a vertical position. You need to tie the bush into a loose bundle, cover it with the selected material and protect it with a wire frame.

Video: secrets of handling weigela

As a lazy gardener, I really love the tradition of decorating flower beds with stones. At first, when covering a bush, I had to look for suitable stones throughout the entire area and even without my husband’s knowledge, adapt building materials for this task. Then I simply found the required number of beautiful round stones from neighbors and friends and now I always keep them near the bushes. In summer they are decorative, and in winter they become functional.

What problems do gardeners face?

One of the possible difficulties when planting weigela is the wrong time. If most other shrubs and trees are preferably planted in the fall, it is best to move it in the spring. Bushes planted in autumn take root much worse and die more often. To “preserve” seedlings until spring (if you purchased them in the fall by chance or unknowingly), bury them in an inclined position and cover most of the crown with soil. In this state, the weigela will successfully overwinter and you can plant it in the spring.

Other problems are also in most cases associated with the untimely execution of garden robots, or their insufficient quantity.

Video: weigela in your own garden

Table: seasonal care work

I’ll say it banally, but plants in your own garden are almost like children. While I was too lazy to deal with them more than 2-3 times a year, they managed at least on their own and looked almost decent. But just as a mother can be disappointed with her own children, watching the successes of their peers, so I began to feel embarrassed about my flowerbed when visiting my friends. I formed the flowerbed specifically to save time, since I love flowers, but I hate having to sow annuals every year. But you also have to tinker with the bushes to make them really beautiful. Considering that gardening enthusiasm attacks me in short bursts and usually out of season, it was really difficult to synchronize the needs of plants and my own mood. Over time, I managed to discipline myself and include the minimum care required for the flowerbed in my daily plans. The result turned out both with and without a manicure - it seems like a small thing, but it changes the image dramatically. True, new plants appear extremely rarely now - I treat everyone like an adopted baby.

Reproduction methods

Gardeners practice propagation of weigela by seeds and vegetative methods: cuttings (rooting of cut shoots), layering (rooting of shoots by bending down and covering them with earth without detachment from the bush), young growth of a stump (“babies” that regularly appear at the root neck). Growing cuttings from shoots and shoots is carried out identically, and the layering method is simpler, since at the rooting stage the young growth does not require additional care.

Weigela is most often propagated by arcuate layering

How to grow weigela seedlings

Unlike many other ornamental shrubs, weigela reproduces well by seeds. Collected seeds remain viable for a whole year, but they should not be stored longer. Preliminary preparation no seeds are required, they are quite tenacious without additional help. For sowing, you can use seedling trays or flower pots covered with film, or in general any semblance of a mini-greenhouse.

As a rule, all plants sprout at the same time, which greatly simplifies the care of young shoots. Picking is carried out after the appearance of the second pair of leaves, then you can start weeding. If the seedlings have enough space left to grow (7–8 cm between neighbors), in the future they only require watering.

If you can’t find picking tools, you can use improvised means

At the end of the first year after emergence, the seedlings grow to 6–7 cm in height, and the root system occupies an area with a diameter of 3–5 cm. At this stage of life, the stem does not yet branch, but it has 3 or more pairs of leaves, as well as axillary and apical buds. Such seedlings are ready for growing outdoors. It is best to take the boxes out into the garden and install them under trees that create partial shade.

This bush is suitable for planting in the ground or in a tub.

By the second year of life, the seedling is 40–50 cm high and has a well-developed superficial root system. Such a plant can already find a permanent place of residence in your garden. But you will have to wait another 2 years for the first flowers.

The seed propagation method is not suitable for hybrid and garden forms weigels that have the right ones decorative properties were imparted by grafting. It is best to sow natural forms of weigela: pleasant, early, Middendorf.

Growing weigela from cuttings

Vegetative propagation - The best way preserve the varietal characteristics of your green pet. The optimal time for this procedure is mid-June, when spring flower buds have already fulfilled their function and new ones have not yet appeared. Young, not yet woody shoots should be pruned. The bottom cut should be straight; a traditional oblique cut will cut the knot to which the leaves are attached. The upper cut should be placed above the sheet cushion, the lower one - directly below it.

In your distant school years, you were certainly told that plants have three ways of arranging leaves on the stem: alternate (in a ladder), opposite (paired leaves grow opposite each other) and whorled (leaves envelop the stem in a ring). Beginning gardeners should definitely remember this, since the cuttings of plants with a regular position are cut from below obliquely, with whorled and opposite ones - only in a straight line.

You can use a regular blade to cut cuttings

Experts do not agree on the issue of cutting the two pairs of leaves remaining on the stem: you can remove them completely, cut them in half, or leave 2/3 of the leaf blade.

1. Place freshly cut cuttings in water at room temperature for 1–2 hours.

   The water level in the jar should not be high - it is enough to moisten the lower 2–3 cm

2. Treat the prepared stems with a growth stimulator and leave overnight in a dark, warm room. The optimal holding time is 12 hours, temperature is 20o-25oC. A solution of 150 mg of heteroauxin in 1 liter of water is usually used as a stimulant. Please note that without growth stimulation, the likelihood of rooting of the cutting is reduced by an order of magnitude.

   When purchasing a bag, be sure to calculate how much product is needed to process all your cuttings

3. Prepare a mixture of sand and peat and plant the cuttings in open ground, rolling them to a depth of 1 cm. Top the soil mixture with washed river sand, and then cover it tightly plastic film(as an option - a cut plastic bottle). Water the seedling twice a day until it is completely rooted.

   A cut bottle is the simplest and cheapest mini-greenhouse

Experts say that if you follow this method, good rooting is guaranteed.

Weigela propagates equally well from both winter and summer cuttings. But summer seedlings bloom for the first time at the age of 2 years, and this is a huge advantage for impatient gardeners. Unfortunately, the first buds will have to be removed before opening in order for the bush to form a more lush and dense crown.

If you missed the time for summer cuttings, you can try growing winter cuttings. They are pruned in April, separating the stem under the bud with unblown leaves. Further, the technology is similar, but rooting is carried out in pots with a soil mixture of sand and turf soil. After the roots have formed, the plants are pinched and fed with cow manure (0.5 liters of slurry per 1 m2) or mineral fertilizers (30 g of superphosphate + 25 g of ammonium nitrate).

Rooting of cuttings is not guaranteed, so prepare them with a reserve

Please note that despite additional efforts, winter cuttings not only grow worse, but also take root less readily. Therefore, if you need a guaranteed result, it is better to wait until the summer.

Nuances of cultivation in different regions

Thanks to the high adaptability of weigela, it grows well almost throughout the country. But there are several nuances that should be taken into account by gardeners from regions with harsh climates.

Growing in the Moscow region and Leningrad region

This region feels best hybrid varieties of this shrub: Candida, Eve Rathke, Rosea, Lucifer. Of the wild ones that grow in a temperate continental climate, early Weigela is appropriate, which is often found in the south of the Ussuri region and blooms (varieties Purpurea and Alba). But the latter tolerates cold worse and needs careful shelter. If you are not bothered by the need to protect plants from frost, Weigela garden and Weigela middendorf will also grow well in a garden near Moscow. Here they will not only grow well, but will also be able to successfully reproduce by cuttings and seeds according to the standard scheme.

A cottage near Moscow, decorated with weigels, resembles cozy house in Provence

Planting weigela in the Moscow region is carried out using the technology already described above. The only difference is that spring planting is recommended. You will have to wait 4 years for the first flowering.

In cold climates, weigela planted in autumn often dies in the first winter, despite careful wrapping.

If you want to get a profusely flowering compact bush, two feedings per year are enough. During the swelling of leaf buds (but before the first leaves bloom), add nitroammophoska, 40 g per bucket of water under each bush. At the end of spring, before flower buds bloom, potassium sulfate and superphosphate are added in the amount of 30 g per 10 liters of water for each bush.

Before the first frost, the bushes should be covered with agrofibre, dry leaves or spruce branches (exactly like roses). If the winter is predicted to be severe, it is better to play it safe and use roofing felt or spandex for covering.

Video: the best weigela variety for the middle zone

Growing in Siberia and the Urals

The only obstacle to the normal growth of weigela in this region is severe winter frosts. Therefore, only the most resistant weigela varieties need to be planted here: Alba, Striatum, Victoria, Styriaca, Red Prince, Eva Rathke. Gardeners claim that they are able to survive winter with short-term temperature drops to -43°C. Of course, even these varieties will not overwinter without shelter, but they can be grown in open ground without wasting time on winter care for the tubs.

Despite its apparent fragility and tenderness, this weigela Styriak is able to withstand extremely harsh winters

Planting seedlings here is also preferable in the spring, since the autumn ones do not have time to become sufficiently strong before frost. Otherwise, caring for weigela in Siberia is almost no different from the same actions in other regions.

Even if the flowering is not too abundant, weigela looks very decorative

What gardeners say: reviews from practitioners

As you can see, weigela is not as capricious as they say. Most gardeners are happy with their bushes, even if they do not follow the care plan 100%. Therefore, be sure to try planting it at home, because you can get no less pleasure from caring for it than from contemplating its bright buds.

Weigela. This spectacular shrub, part of the Honeysuckle family, unfortunately, can rarely be found in gardens and summer cottages. In total, about 15 species of weigela are known; in natural conditions, in all their diversity, they can be found in East Asia. In Russia, in the south of the Far East, only 3 species grow (V. Middendorf, V. early, V. pleasant).

Weigela has been cultivated since the mid-nineteenth century, when different kinds This plant was introduced to Europe. Despite the fact that the birthplace of this crop is Japan and China, it grows well in the south and central Russia. The modern assortment of weigela includes one and a half hundred varieties and hybrids.

Description

Weigela is an ornamental, beautifully flowering shrub; some of its species, under favorable conditions, bloom twice per season. The timing of flowering varies slightly among different species and varieties, but in general, its beginning is the end of May - the beginning of June (this is why weigela is called the “messenger of warmth”), and the duration is 3 – 4 weeks. The second flowering is possible in late summer - early autumn. This time it will be less lush and lasting.

Weigela has beautiful flowers up to 5 cm long, shaped like a small funnel or bell. The color palette is incredibly varied and includes numerous shades of red, pink, cream and white flowers. The flowers are either collected in inflorescences or arranged singly.

Types and varieties of weigela

Of particular interest to plant lovers are several species and varieties of weigela, which can be successfully grown in the south and central zone of our country. Here they are.

Weigela middendorffiana

Under natural conditions it grows in Sakhalin and the Far East, as well as in the northeastern part of China. This is a shrub that sheds its leaves every year. It grows in height from one to one and a half meters. The oval-elongated leaves have a pointed end. Yellowish or grayish-yellow tubular flowers with bright orange dots, reaching a length of 3-4 cm. It blooms twice per season. Once in the spring (early May), and the second time in August-September. Quite small seeds with wings ripen in an elongated capsule.

Weigela suavis

Weigela pleasanta is extremely rarely found among amateur gardeners, although its spectacular and openwork bush is very decorative. This crop is a shrub reaching a height of 1.3 meters. The oval-lanceolate leaves of a bright green hue change color in mid-September. The shrub sheds its leaves in October. The pinkish-lilac flowers with a soft pink inner surface, reminiscent of a funnel in shape, especially attract attention. Typically flowering occurs from May 10 to the end of June. For the second time, this species can bloom in late August - early September.

Early weigela (Weigela praecox)

This is a tall (up to 2 m in height) shrub with a dense crown. Flowering occurs in May and lasts 2-3 weeks. The flowers are pink, pubescent, collected in several pieces on drooping peduncles.

Hybrid weigela is called the union of several hybrids that were obtained by crossing profusely flowering weigela, Korean and flowering weigela. When designing landscape compositions, various varieties of these hybrids are most often used.

Eva Rathke

Among the old varieties that are still in demand, it is worth highlighting the Eva Rathke variety. This hybrid was obtained in Poland and can be purchased today on the website of the Union of Polish Nurseries. The bushes, about one meter high and 2 to 3 meters wide, have a compact crown shape.

A large number of green leaves with a sharp end, 6 to 10 cm long, cover the entire length of the branches. The shiny, reddish-pink flowers with a lighter inner surface are tube-shaped. Flowering occurs from June to August.

Rosea

Hybrid "Rosea" attracts attention with pink big flowers with white specks. The crown of the bush, one and a half meters high, is formed by smoothly curving branches. It has good winter hardiness; this hybrid requires only a small shelter for the winter.

Bristol Ruby

Also a fairly well-known hybrid is “Bristol Ruby”, which is characterized by rapid growth. I like it for its rather large bushes with a height of 2.5 to 3 meters and a width of up to 3.5 meters. Particularly attractive are flowers that have reddish-ruby edges and reddish-orange inner surface. Flowering lasts from June to July.

Styriaca

The Styriaka variety was obtained through the selection of profusely flowering weigela and Korean weigela. Beautiful pinkish flowers, reminiscent of strawberries in color, reach a length of 2.5-3 cm. During abundant flowering, which occurs in May–June, the bushes are covered with “pinkish” foam. Towards the end of flowering, the color of the flowers changes from pink to reddish brown.

Planting weigela, choosing a location and soil

Although weigela is enough unpretentious culture, some of its biological features must be taken into account when choosing the site where it will constantly grow.

Landing dates

Weigela is planted in spring (March-April) and autumn (before frost), and in southern and subtropical regions throughout the year, excluding short frosty periods.

Landing location

It is best to select a location in well-lit areas, protected from powerful winds and air currents, especially northern ones. You can also plant weigela under the openwork crowns of trees, but it must be borne in mind that this culture shows all its beauty only in maximum light.

It is undesirable to place the plant in lowlands, where the weigela is likely to freeze out.

Soil and planting holes

The soil at the planting site must be nutritious, light, permeable and, at the same time, capable of retaining moisture. Natural views weigels prefer to grow on soils with a slightly acidic reaction (pH 5.5-6.5). And various varieties develop better on lands with a neutral reaction (pH 6.5-7.0).

Planting holes are dug 50x50x50 cm in size, the distance between bushes is maintained from 2 to 3 meters. For low-growing varieties– 1-1.5 m.

If the soil at the planting site is not suitable for any properties, it is replaced with a mixture consisting of turf soil and leaf humus. In this case, the width and length of the pit are increased to one meter, and the depth remains the same - half a meter. The bottom must be loosened by a few centimeters. It is imperative to improve the moisture capacity of the soil in places where there is a severe lack of moisture in the soil, for example, by adding high peat.

Landing technology

Three-year-old seedlings are usually used to plant this shrub.

During planting, the roots are carefully distributed throughout the entire volume of the hole and filled in, leaving no voids.

At the end, be sure to water the soil with plenty of water.

More soil is added after the soil settles.

Mulch the area around the bush with peat chips or wood chips.

The shoots of the seedling are cut in half. If a flowering specimen is used for planting, there is no need to trim the shoots.

How to save a weigela seedling until spring

If you purchased a seedling in the fall too late and it is no longer possible to plant it, you can save the planting material until spring in one of two ways.

The first is to bury the seedling in the garden at an angle, and also cover the branches with earth. In the spring, dig up after the snow melts and plant in due time.

The second way is to keep it indoors by planting it in a pot. With moderate watering, you need to wait until the leaves on the weigel fall off. Next, you need to keep the plant in cool conditions, at a temperature of 1-6 degrees, even short-term small negative temperatures are allowed. You need to water very sparingly, not allowing the soil to dry out completely.

At the end of winter, when the buds swell and growth begins, the bush should be moved to a bright place. Increase watering, but moderately; in April you can begin to apply fertilizers and, if necessary, shape the crown.

In May, when the return frosts have passed, weigela can be planted in a prepared place in the garden. Protect from bright sun for the first two weeks after planting.

Reproduction methods

This culture reproduces well both with the help seeds, so cuttings. Moreover, various types of weigela can be propagated by seed, and new plants from varietal bushes are obtained only with the help of cuttings.

Cuttings

Shoots for cuttings are harvested twice a season.

For the first time this is done in March, when the buds have not yet opened.

Cuttings 8 to 10 cm long are cut from lignified vegetative shoots (not flowering).

To speed up rooting, stimulants are used to form roots (the cuttings are kept in the drug solution for 4-5 hours).

The harvested parts of the shoots are almost completely buried in a mixture consisting of coarse sand and crushed high-moor peat. Take one part of each component.

The cuttings are planted at a distance of 25 cm from each other in partial shade.

As soon as the shoots on the cuttings begin to grow, it means they have taken root. Now it’s time to plant them several at a time in containers filled with a mixture of peat, river sand, clay and garden soil.

Caring for such young seedlings consists of regular watering, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers with the addition of microelements and pinching shoots when they reach a height of 5 cm.

With good care, the bushes grow up to 20-25 cm by the beginning of autumn. Next spring, before the weigela begins to grow, the plants are pruned and transplanted into 3-liter pots. Then the same care is carried out as last season, only pinching is excluded.

By autumn, young plants will already have from 3 to 6 mature shoots 70-80 cm high. Such seedlings are already ready for planting in a permanent place.

Second cutting period falls at the end of May - beginning of June.

Select young shoots of the current year that are half lignified.

Cuttings from 8 to 10 cm long are cut from the bottom of the growth.

All leaves are removed except the top two, which are cut off in half.

Further rooting technology is the same as for cuttings prepared in March.

Cuttings planted at the beginning of summer reach 10-15 cm by autumn. To obtain bushes ready for planting, they need to be grown for two years.

Plants grown from cuttings bloom within 2-3 years.

Weigela from seeds

Seed propagation of weigela is simple, but it requires more waiting time for flowering plants than cuttings. In addition, this method is not suitable for propagating hybrid weigela, since the new plants will not retain the characteristics of the mother plant. It is used if you need to obtain a large number of species plants.

Fresh weigela seeds have almost one hundred percent germination rate, which lasts throughout the year. They can be sown before winter or in spring.

• The sowing area is allocated in the shade of trees.
• The seeds are scattered on the surface of the ground.
• Cover the top with a layer of peat or sand 0.5-1 cm.
• Lightly compact.
• Moisturize well from a spray bottle.
• When sown in winter, they are covered with leaves, straw or covering material and await seedlings in the spring.
• When sowing in spring, the bed is covered with film, which is periodically removed for watering (from a spray bottle) and ventilation. Shoots should appear in about 3 weeks.
• Some time after the seeds have sprouted, the seedlings are thinned out, cared for, and a year later transplanted into a schoolhouse. For winter plantings require light shelter.
• After 3-4 years, the plants can be moved to a permanent location. Weigela grown by seed will begin to bloom in 4-6 years.

Seeds can be sown and grown before planting in a permanent place and at home. At the same time, in the summer, pots with plants should be placed on outdoors, covering from the sun.

Weigela care

Caring for adult weigels consists of fertilizing, pruning, watering and loosening.

Top dressing

This shrub is fed 3 times per season.

The very first fertilizing is carried out in the snow, before the beginning of the growing season. Mineral fertilizers are scattered around the bush within the radius of the tree trunk circle. Superphosphate and urea are best suited for this.

The weigels are fed the second time during the formation of buds. For this purpose potassium fertilizers without chlorine or complex fertilizers are used. mineral fertilizers with approximately equal amounts of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

The last time the bushes are fertilized is at the end of summer. Potassium should predominate in the fertilizers used during this period. This will help the shoots ripen and prepare the plants for winter.

Watering

In nature, weigela grows in the monsoon regions of East Asia, where the soil contains a lot of moisture. The soil should not be allowed to dry out too much; this leads to a sharp deterioration in flowering and prevents the good development of plants. The bush is watered regularly and be sure to cover the ground around the bush with a thick layer of mulching material (sawdust, husks, peat).

Loosening

Loosening is carried out as the soil around the bush compacts during the season. It should be taken into account that the weigela roots in the tree trunk lie at a depth of 8-10 cm, and disturbing them is undesirable and even dangerous. Therefore, loosening should not be carried out deeper than 8 cm.

Trimming

Pruning of this crop is carried out in early spring and July. In April, dry, frozen, broken and deformed branches are cut out, and in July, faded and old branches are cut out. In addition, in June, excess root growth is removed.

If after winter it turns out that one of the main shoots has frozen, it is cut off, leaving 10 cm above the ground. A living bud at the root will give rise to a new shoot.

Preparing for winter

When growing weigela in our country, with the exception of the southern and subtropical regions, they need shelter for the winter.

The shrub is wrapped in spunbond, and the trunk circle is covered with leaf litter or spruce branches. In the middle zone, the shelter is removed in early April.

Weigela in landscape design

Various varieties, hybrids and species of this crop in ornamental horticulture and landscaping are usually used as single plants (tapeworms) in the foreground or middle ground of landscape compositions. Weigela is also perfect for mixed and pure groups of shrubs.

Typically, barberries, Japanese spirea, mock orange, rosebud, cotoneaster, Japanese quince, forsythia, felt cherry and columbine are planted next to it. A group of weigela of different varieties and hybrids on the lawn looks especially beautiful.

Tall varieties and hybrids (“Gustav Mallet”, “Bristol Ruby”, “Marc Tellier”) look good in compositions with ornamental and evergreen trees. But weigels of small height (“Variegata Nana” and “Purpurea”) will decorate mixed flower beds, borders, flower beds and rocky gardens.

You can also create from tall weigela hedge free shape, which does not need to be cut.