Treatment of gooseberries in the spring from diseases and pests. Why gooseberries are covered with white bloom, what to do about it and how to treat the plant

Seeing gooseberries, white bloom on berries, gardeners, faced with this problem for the first time, give up in bewilderment. Yes, this is a shrub disease called "powdery mildew". At first, the plaque is less noticeable: an almost invisible “hoarfrost” is visible on the berries and leaves. These are spores of a fungal disease that grow and infect the plant more and more. If the shrub is not treated, the white bloom becomes more expressive and gathers into whole fluffy flakes, hitting the berries and leaves. Further, it changes in color - it becomes brown with black dots (fruiting bodies of mushrooms). The shrub begins to lose its shoots - they dry, the berries crumble. The next summer, the disease progresses even more, as the spores multiply more intensively, and as a result, the plant dies.

What to do if gooseberry fruits are covered with white bloom powdery mildew?

If, after examining the gooseberries, you notice a white coating on the berries only in the initial stage, you must take necessary measures to stop the development of a fungal disease. At the initial stage (as in our case) The best way is spraying. Active substances for this purpose can be ordinary laundry soap and copper sulfate. Take 20 g blue vitriol and 150 g laundry soap for 10 liters of water. Copper sulfate is best diluted in not too hot water. Pour the thoroughly mixed mixture in a stream into the prepared soap solution. Laundry soap can be grated on a coarse grater. Spraying Special attention should be applied to spore-affected areas. To prevent the onset of the disease, it is advisable to spray the gooseberries completely (in this case, a white coating will not appear at all), as well as the soil around it.

Gooseberries by their nature are unpretentious shrubs, but they need to be prevented against fungal diseases regularly, every spring. If we talk about currants, then fungal spores often infect its leaves and young shoots, on the gooseberry, the berries are damaged: they wrinkle, dry and fall off. If the shrub is running and your gooseberries are white, the plaque on the berries is already clearly visible, you need to act immediately. All shoots heavily affected by fungi should be cut and burned. Do not be afraid that the bush will not give you fruit this year. But you will save him from an insidious disease - powdery mildew.

Prevention of the onset of the disease

In order for the raid on the berries not to appear next summer, in early spring carefully treat the shrub with the above mixture or use special ready-made preparations for spraying - Cumulus, Thiovit Jet or Vectra.
You can buy them at any hardware store or supermarket.

For the purpose of prevention, start spraying the plant at the moment when the first young leaves appear. Treat with the selected preparation not only young shoots, but also the ground around the shrub itself. The second spraying should be carried out during the flowering period, the third - during the formation of the ovary. When the berries ripen, use more gentle preparations for prevention.

how to process gooseberries. a white coating appeared on the gooseberries. How can the bush be treated to get rid of mold?

Powdery mildew is a type of fungal disease. Mushrooms have one feature - where one type of mushroom grows - there is no place for another - the ecological niche is occupied. In order not to fight the disease, it must be prevented or eliminated by planting other ribs on gooseberries in advance, but harmless. They are constantly available with mullein or goat dung. In late autumn or early spring, we cover the gooseberry bushes with a thick layer of fresh manure around the entire perimeter of the crown. And with the release of the leaves, you can pour infusion of mullein or goat directly over the leaves. Gooseberries are a wonderful top dressing and do not get sick. Yields are large and easy to propagate. We grow a variety of buns - it is without thorns. Sweet tasty fruitful and harvesting is easy and does not hurt.

try phytosporin, these are natural bacteria. not chemistry. works great on all fungal infections and rot and mold, and you don’t need to treat it like vitriol all summer

I got rid of white plaque on the berries like this: a vial of iodine 7 ml per 7 liters of water, spray the bushes.

If you start with chemistry, you will process all the time,

because powdery mildew will periodically return,

if the variety is unstable.

Try Fitoverm, as Elena advises.

Feed heavily with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers,

mulch the soil with straw

(A hay stick, an enemy of powdery mildew fungus, is bred on it).

Bushes should not be thickened.

It is better if such unstable varieties grow in the sun.

every autumn we cut off old shoots. and everything is fine

In winter, I pour boiling water over the bushes, in the spring I process it with Acrobat, in the summer, if necessary, with Fitosporin.

A matchbox of soda ash + a quarter of a piece of laundry soap in a bucket of water. We process until the buds open for the first time, then every 10-14 days until flowering, and the last time - when the fruitlets are tied. Cut off and burn diseased fruits, severely affected branches - too, they will dry out anyway.

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease. It appears with poor warming of the bush and high humidity. It needs to be processed.

Measures to combat gooseberry powdery mildew: apply spraying with fungicides. Before bud break, gooseberry bushes and the soil under them are sprayed with a solution of nitrafen (eradicating spraying). Or you can treat the bushes with a 3% solution iron sulphate(30 g per 10 l of water) or 1% solution of copper sulfate (10 g per 10 l of water).

it's called powdery mildew

this is a complete kapets and it is completely impossible to defeat him with anything. it is better to buy a powdery mildew-resistant variety and plant

this is gooseberry kirdyk, nothing will help

Delete \. until powdery mildew crawled onto other bushes.

Powdery mildew. The variety is probably unstable to powdery mildew, but hurry up to throw out the bush, there are ways to get rid of it and what to do for prevention. Look in the search engine about torment. dew on gooseberries.

Powdery mildew. It is better to throw out the bush and not bother and cultivate the infection with your own hands. New varieties are resistant - look on the Internet or gardening magazines.

A gray-white coating appeared on the gooseberries. Looks like powdery mildew, but leaves are normal. What could it be??

American powdery mildew, treat with Fitosporin, Alirin, Gamair (biofungicides)

well, it's either a disease, or someone sprinkled your gooseberries on you ..

It all starts with berries.

Treat twice with an interval of 7 days. With a severe injury

the snow came down and I, without waiting for illnesses, sprinkled the Bordeaux mixture. with blue vitriol which. the result is good.

Treat with Topaz. Helps very well.

I have the same. First one bush, a year later the second. For two years she didn’t treat bushes with anything - in March she shed hot water with potassium permanganate, then sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, infusion of ash, Topaz, soda ash, etc. This year, again, the berries are bloomed, and the foliage is beautiful. I uprooted both bushes so that they would not pass to others. I will start bushes not subject to powdery mildew, for example, "Emerald".

On the bushes of currants and gooseberries, white bloom, powdery mildew, methods of struggle

Alas, your plants are affected by powdery mildew. This year, the disease has spread very strongly in the Moscow region, causing a huge

harm. development of this dangerous disease promote high relative humidity air and warm weather (17-28°С). Hot and dry weather somewhat slows down the development of the disease.

Now the white powdery coating has compacted, turns brown, takes the form of felt with black dots interspersed in it - fruiting bodies

mushroom. Berries, covered with a felt coating, become gray, inedible. Unfortunately, the time to fight the disease has already passed.

But in the fall or next early spring, it is imperative to cut and burn the tops of the affected shoots.

Prevent development of powdery mildew it is possible only in the initial stage of the disease, immediately with the appearance of a white coating on the underside of the leaves. For

to eradicate foci of disease, plants should be sprayed in autumn or spring with the following preparations: 0.02% topaz 2-3 times with an interval of 10-15 days, or 0.02% vectra (before and after flowering), or 0.2- 0.3% thiovit jet (only on currants!) after flowering.

Other means are used: 1/3 of a bucket of mullein or rotted hay is poured into 3 liters of water, insisted for 3 days and diluted

water in a ratio of 1:3. Then the infusion is filtered and the plants are sprayed.

There is a folk remedy. Take 1 liter of whey, skim or buttermilk, add 9 liters of water and spray the bushes. In early spring, an infusion of wood ash is used (300 g per 10 liters of water). Plants

sprayed 2 times with an interval of 10-12 days. You can make dry wood ash in the near-stem circles of bushes (300-500 g for each bush), mixing it with the soil.

If you plant varieties of currants and gooseberries on your plot, resistant to powdery mildew, then there will be no hassle.

This is a currant Openwork, Bagheera, Vologda, Curiosity, Fragrant, Zusha, Orlovia, Selechenskaya, Exotic, Vigorous,

gooseberry - African, Kolobok, Pink 2, Spring, Russian, Change.

Irina Meshcheryakova, Ph.D. Sciences

White coating on gooseberries and currants, what is it?

This disease is powdery mildew.

This is a shrub disease. Powdery mildew is dangerous for gooseberries and currants. The disease manifests itself on shoots, leaves, fruits. The fruits are covered (however, both shoots and leaves too) with a dense gray or white bloom that does not wear off.

Last year I tried to process it with phytosporin. And this year again the same picture. What to do? do you want to remove bushes?

Powdery mildew. It is necessary to treat.

Powdery mildew - it is useless to treat, remove

powdery mildew fungal disease

Powdery mildew affects many crops. It also happens on weeds. It is better to grow resistant varieties, especially gooseberries and currants. For eradication, try one year to leave yourself without a crop, but to wage a very active struggle. So to speak, eradicate the reptile. But more often, unfortunately, landings have to be replaced. I bought 2 bushes of a resistant variety, propagated. Now there are no such problems.

In early spring, before flowering, it is necessary to spray with Topaz, it helped my gooseberries.

A white coating appears on the gooseberries, as if mold. What is it and what can be sprayed?

A white coating appears on the gooseberry berries, as if mold ... what is it and how can it be sprayed ??

It's most likely powdery mildew. Last year, I tried currant and gooseberry bushes to treat with a hot shower in early spring before bud break. I read that potassium permanganate can also be added to water. Before flowering and after it, try the drug "Thiovit Jet". You can also process "Hom" and "Topaz". From ecological methods - infusion of ash. In general, new gooseberry varieties are being developed that are more resistant to powdery mildew. Last edited on March 14, 2016, 21:09

Tatyana, every year we water the bushes with hot water. Unfortunately, this did not help the gooseberries, all the berries disappeared ((.

Svetlana, and for gooseberries they just write with potassium permanganate. This year I will try, I have not poured it yet. We still have a lot of snow and the frost today is -6 C. In general, old varieties, no matter what you do with them, can still get sick. We refused them. A relative shared a few years ago good grade(green berries), only he was left.

I think you are right. Need to change

It is necessary to sprinkle with copper-containing preparations (hom or others) once every 14 days according to the instructions.

After flowering, treat with soda ash in a soapy solution (take 50 grams of soda and 10 liters of water, soap so much that it sticks better). soda ash used to be used for laundry. First, a soap solution is prepared, soda is separately diluted in water, then everything is carefully combined. If necessary, filter.

There is another substance that is used in Food Industry in the production of cheese and condensed milk, it is disubstituted sodium phosphate. It is also called disodium phosphate or food additive E339. This substance is used to combat gooseberry powdery mildew. And other powdery mildew mushrooms, for example, on zucchini, pumpkin. The powder is dissolved in water and three treatments are done after 7-9 days. At the same time, it is also a phosphorus fertilizer. To process gooseberries, 100 grams of the substance is diluted in 10 liters of water. The last treatment is carried out 20 days before harvest.

Maybe these funds are not so eradicating, but safer for humans. Last edited on March 15, 2016, 08:22

Why poison the garden with drugs when new immune gooseberry varieties have appeared. There are many of them, they have been known for 50 years. No one in the world grows gooseberries that are not immune to powdery mildew. Change and only change.

This is powdery mildew. You can effectively escape from it if you spray it with Topaz, but it is better to do it right away, as soon as you see several of these berries (or leaves). If almost the entire bush is already affected, then Topaz will help little, and it is unlikely that anything else will help.

brown coating on gooseberries, how to process?

Why gooseberries turn brown

phytosporin, you can eat even on the day of treatment, it is impossible to overdose the concentration, several treatments (biological preparation from live bacteria)

powdery mildew .. treat late .. will not help

it’s already kind of late to process, it’s powdery mildew, it was necessary at the first sign (something in the form of white foam at the tips of the shoots) to spray 1% Bordeaux - this is from temperature changes, thickening, etc.

Correctly written, this is spheroteca, American powdery mildew. There is nothing to save now. It is necessary to process even before the swelling of the kidneys Bordeaux mixture or something like Topaz, Fundazol. Then a couple more times with an interval of 2-3 weeks. Then there is a chance that he will be alive and well. Be sure to process in the fall. This happens from thickening, from excess moisture, and the main thing is varieties! Now new varieties resistant to powdery mildew have been developed.

your variety is not resistant to powdery mildew, you need to process it all season from the moment the leaves start blooming, the last time in August after harvesting, it is easier to plant resistant varieties

You have an IMPASSABLE DEBRE in the gooseberry, that's why it "blooms". Elisheva wrote to you about soap and calcined soda. It WILL HELP, BUT, collect all the affected berries and burn them. Then process the plants, process well inside the bushes. They are not ventilated at your place, so there are PARNO and all sorts of fungi are happy about this and grow for their own pleasure. After, if there are branches affected by powdery mildew, they will look like burnt ones, but it is better to remove them, they are weak and will only spoil the view. And the bushes need to be thinned out so that the wind ventilates.

you need to process it in advance, for this there is Ridomil Gold, for example

soda ash and slurry to help you

(c) Katerina Shlykova

powdery mildew one of the most dangerous diseases for gooseberry. It can destroy the entire crop, and in a few years the plant itself. In addition, powdery mildew is a frequent disease, the distribution area of \u200b\u200bwhich is very wide. The spores of this disease develop especially actively in warm and humid weather.

If late May - early June examine the gooseberry bushes, you can find on leaves, young shoots and already started berries here is such a loose (mealy) plaque white color:

Apparently due to appearance and the name of the disease.

In the future, this plaque becomes more dense, darkens, turns brown, similar to a crust:

Affected shoots become twisted and eventually dry out. Affected leaves curl, become brittle, stop growing. Affected berries do not have time to ripen, they simply crack and fall off the green bush. The result of such a disease is the lack of a crop and young growth, and within a few years the death of the entire plant.

Powdery mildew (or sphere library) - This fungal disease, which begins to spread in the spring with the onset of heat by spores. By the way, this disease comes from America, so it is often called "American powdery mildew" in the literature. Well, again, trouble is on our heads from the American continent. They don't have enough Colorado beetles. Actually, as already mentioned, this is really a bad disease, which should not be passed by. But despite all its seriousness, powdery mildew is quite easy to deal with.

There are two courses of action here - agrotechnical and chemical, which give good result In total.
For those who in no way recognize the use of chemistry in their area, agricultural methods (including folk recipes) may be quite enough. But if the disease still raged too much or the gooseberry plantations are extensive, then, perhaps, you should not give up chemicals. Moreover, literally one spraying with them is enough, while folk recipes will have to be resorted to not two or three times per season, but more, especially if warm and humid weather contributes to the spread of powdery mildew.

Powdery mildew PREVENTION:

1. pruning bushes gooseberry autumn or early spring contributes to the good development of the bush and helps to resist various diseases, incl. and powdery mildew. During pruning, be sure to remove the branches affected by the disease, and then it is better to burn them or take them away from the site and bury them deeper.

2. During the entire growing season (i.e. spring and summer), the detected disease-infected shoots and berries if possible delete. It is believed that the spores of the disease hibernate on the affected shoots, and sometimes on fallen leaves. Therefore, in early spring, last year's foliage from under the bushes should be removed.

3. In early spring, when the snow had just melted around the bushes, and the threat of severe frosts had passed, but strictly BEFORE kidney swelling, good pour hot (+90) water over gooseberry bushes. In such water, potassium permanganate can be dissolved up to Pink colour or soda (1-2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Such a "hot shower" is good as a prophylaxis against many fungal diseases, and on blackcurrant, they say, it also helps with spider mites.

4. Use only as a fertilizer potash(which include, for example, ash) and phosphoric. They contribute to the resistance of gooseberries to powdery mildew. But it is better to refrain from nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen can cause the shoots to fail to mature and become more susceptible to powdery mildew as a result.

These methods of prevention are useful to use in combination.

RECIPES FOR TREATMENT of powdery mildew with chemistry and folk remedies:

1. In early spring BEFORE buds swell at the gooseberry, spray the bushes and the litter around them (last year's grass, leaves) with a 1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water).

2. In magazines and literature, it is recommended to use the Topaz chemical preparation (according to the instructions). Spray with this solution twice if necessary - BEFORE flowering and immediately AFTER flowering. You can get by with one spraying - immediately AFTER flowering. I have tried this drug in practice and can confirm its effectiveness.

3. An excellent preparation for the fight against powdery mildew is "HOM". This is a kind of substitute for Bordeaux mixture. bushes sprayed HOM solution (0.4%, i.e. 40 g HOM per 10 liters of water) BEFORE the gooseberries bloom. Despite the fact that "HOM" is a copper-containing drug, it can be used in combination with drugs against pests. That is, we take 40 grams of HOM and dilute it in a small amount of water. Then we take ampoules of "Fufanon" or "Decis" (calculation according to the instructions attached to the preparations) and also dilute in a small amount of water. Then these two solutions are mixed together and brought to 10 liters of water. Spray BEFORE flowering.

4. 150 g of laundry soap + 20 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water.
Laundry soap is rubbed on a grater with large holes. Copper sulfate is first dissolved separately in hot water, and then poured in a thin stream, stirring constantly, into the soap solution room temperature. The resulting soap-copper emulsion should be bluish in color, homogeneous in consistency, without flaking. Spray IMMEDIATELY AFTER FLOWERING, or in the worst case, immediately after setting the berries.

5. Here are a number of drugs recommended in various literary sources (I, however, have not been tested): Vectra, Skor, Cumulus, Abiga-Peak, colloidal sulfur.
"Thiovit Jet" (20-30 g per 10 liters of water) is characterized, like other sulfur preparations, by a protective and eradicating infection effect on early stages powdery mildew development. It is also used on currants.

6. 50 g of soda (2 tablespoons) + 50 g of laundry soap per 10 liters of water. Soap is rubbed on a grater with large holes. All this is thoroughly soluble in water. I don’t spray the bushes with this solution, but I water it directly from the watering can through the strainer nozzle, and also water the ground around the bushes. Good prevention. You need to do this procedure BEFORE flowering as soon as the leaves begin to bloom, and IMMEDIATELY AFTER FLOWER. If necessary, you can repeat the procedure 2 more times with an interval of 7-10 days.

7. Daily infusion of ash - 3 kg of ash per 10 liters of water. The ash is poured with boiling water and left for a day, then strain the resulting infusion and spray the bushes with it. before and after flowering. This procedure is usually repeated 2-3 times with an interval of 7-10 days. One bush consumes 2.5-3 liters of liquid. I don’t really like this method, because I don’t like to mess around with ash in this way. And besides, for me, ash is primarily important as a fertilizer for cabbage, strawberries, onions and other crops. Therefore, for the treatment of gooseberry powdery mildew, I do not use it. Note - one liter jar holds 500 grams of ash.

8. And another way to deal with powdery mildew. Take 200 g (1 glass) of urine and dilute in 5 liters of water. The resulting solution is immediately sprayed with bushes. This spraying is carried out immediately AFTER gooseberry blossoms. The procedure is repeated 3-4 times per season with an interval of 7-10 days. This recipe was shared by one of the readers of the magazine "Plant farming". I tried it, it helps.

Of course, I do not use all the treatment recipes at once in one season. I choose the most convenient recipe for me at the moment. For example, this summer I resorted to a solution of baking soda and laundry soap (point 6). I watered my bushes before flowering and immediately after.
So I think what to choose any of the recipes and carry out two sprayings: the first before flowering, and the second - immediately after , and this will be quite enough to defeat powdery mildew.

It must be said that among the gooseberries There are varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew.
And if you don’t want to get involved with this disease at all and spend your precious time on all kinds of spraying there, then it’s better to choose just such varieties and breed them in your area.

Here are some varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew:
"Kolobok" (tested in practice, a bush of this variety grows next to the local gooseberry, which is covered with white bloom every year, and "Kolobok" at least without spraying)
"Ural grapes" (also checked the resistance of the variety to powdery mildew on personal experience)
"Kuibyshevsky"
"Grushenka"
"Finnish"
"Senator"
"Harlequin"
"African"
"Houghton"
"Masheka"
"Anniversary"

In general, it has been observed that thornless gooseberry varieties are almost never affected by powdery mildew. So when choosing a variety, you should pay attention to the presence or absence of thorns.

But there is varieties susceptible to powdery mildew:
"Seedling Lefora" (I get sick every year, I always have to spray)
"Date fruit"
"Triumphal"
"Golden Flame"
"Prunes"
"Russian"

Another useful rule - when buying seedlings you need to be careful and do not take those that are in doubt, covered with an incomprehensible coating and look doubtful.

In conclusion, I would like to say that many plants suffer from powdery mildew - trees, flowers, vegetables. But, apparently, for each plant species there is a separate powdery mildew spore fungus, which spreads only on it and nowhere else. In other words, if your gooseberry is sick with powdery mildew, then, for example, cucumbers planted nearby will not become infected with powdery mildew from gooseberries. At least that's what happens in my garden. Gooseberries have their own powdery mildew, which is not transmitted to other crops, cucumbers have their own, flowers have their own, apple trees also have their own, etc.

Have a rich harvest and may your gooseberries never be covered with white bloom!

Always with you,
Katerina Shlykova (amateur gardener since 2003)

Quoting and partial copying articles and stories, possibly indicating the source in the form active link to the corresponding page on the site.

Gooseberries often grow on their own, deprived of attention, and even manage to properly produce a crop. But even more often, left unattended, he experiences an attack by various insect pests and diseases that can significantly harm the bush or even destroy it completely. Therefore, the gardener needs not only to take care of the gooseberries, but also to know all the problems in person, as well as ways to get rid of them.

The main problems and diseases of gooseberries

Having found fading leaves or damaged shoots on a gooseberry bush, the gardener begins to scratch his head thoughtfully in search of the cause of the problem. Without its precise definition, it is hardly possible to help the plant, so the more we know about the gooseberry and the features of its cultivation, the better.

First you need to find out what causes the trouble. Conventionally, they can be divided into three groups:

Gardener's negligence - this includes cases improper care for gooseberries - an error when planting a bush, when fertilizing, etc.
The invasion of insect pests - most often does not depend on a person, but in order to prevent the appearance of unexpected guests, prevention can be carried out.
The defeat of the disease may also not depend on the gardener, and in rare situations it remains only to shrug and admit one's powerlessness. Fortunately, for the most part, a person is able to cope with the scourge that has arisen and save the gooseberry and its crop.

Sometimes everything is interconnected - overlooking a plant can cause the appearance of pests, and those, in turn, bring dangerous diseases.

Among the mistakes made by the summer resident when caring for gooseberries, they distinguish the wrong choice of landing site (in the shade or with a close occurrence ground water), the lack of regular weeding from weeds, the introduction of insufficient amounts of fertilizers or an excess of mineral dressings and thickening of plantings.

Diseases that affect gooseberries:

powdery mildew;
anthracnose;
white spotting (septoria);
goblet rust and mosaic.

Pests attacking gooseberries:

spider mite;
gooseberry sawfly;
moth;
shoot aphid;
moth;
currant midge;
goldfish;
glass case.

Bugs, diseases, pests and problem solving

Why gooseberries do not grow or grow poorly

Usually, the poor development of the gooseberry is associated with errors in caring for it. The choice of place here plays important role. For example, planting gooseberries in a plot with high groundwater (less than a meter to the surface), we risk being left without good harvest, and even destroy the bush. After all, excessive moisture, combined with cold fogs inherent in such areas, is a factor in inhibiting plant development. The same can be said about a place in the shade: the leaves in such a sunless area grow small, like a few berries.

Solution: gooseberries love a sunny area with groundwater below one meter. Provide him with these conditions, and the immunity of the berry will increase significantly.

Insufficient weeding or lack of weeding can lead to overgrowth of the area around the gooseberry. A thick grassy wall will not only retain moisture, but will also deprive the shrub of much-needed useful and nutritious elements. As a result - inhibited growth of culture. The same thing is observed when planting vegetables between bushes - this should never be done.

Weeds are taken from the gooseberry useful material, so they need to be constantly weeded out

Solution: very simple - periodically tear out all the weeds around the gooseberry, so that all the fertilizers applied go to the berry grower and no one else.

Landing errors are a fairly common phenomenon. For example, insufficient penetration of the root neck (recommended depth - 6-7 cm). At the same time, very thin and weak shoots begin to grow, which cannot form the basis of the future bush. It is clear that this will not give him the opportunity to fully develop.

When planting, the root neck of the gooseberry should be deepened by 6-7 cm to ensure strong root shoots.

Solution: the correct deepening of the root neck contributes to the development of full-fledged shoots, from which, during pruning, you can select the best ones to create a bush skeleton.

It is also necessary to fertilize gooseberries correctly. Sometimes gardeners contribute too much mineral fertilizers or fresh manure. As a result, the plant gets a burn of the roots and develops poorly.

Solution: we replace fresh manure with rotted manure, and thoroughly mix the applied top dressing with the ground. It is recommended to apply the following complex of fertilizers: 1.5-2 buckets of organic matter (the same manure or humus), 1 bucket of peat, 300 grams of ash, 200 grams of superphosphate, 100 grams of lime and 20 grams of potassium salt.

The bush does not bear fruit

The main reason for the lack of fruiting or a small number of berries is the lack of proper pruning. A neglected bush begins to thicken, its middle ceases to receive a sufficient amount of sunlight.

Annual pruning of gooseberries stimulates the growth of new shoots and rejuvenates the bush, strengthening its immunity.

Solution: when pruning, it should be borne in mind that an adult bush should consist of 14-20 shoots different ages. From the young growth, 4-5 branches are left every year. They gradually replace the old branches (older than 4-5 years). If pruned annually, the bush will constantly rejuvenate and produce a stable crop, bear fruit well.

It is important to properly water the berry to keep the humidity level at 80% near the roots. It turns out that the earth should be constantly moistened, but not flooded. Watering is carried out until the moment when the berries accumulate sugar and begin to soften. Then the plant does not need water for a while.

Video: Proper pruning of gooseberries

Incorrect and inadequate feeding not only slows down the growth of the plant, but also reduces the yield. The berries become smaller and smaller.

Fertilizers should be used wisely, otherwise, instead of benefiting, you can harm the plant.

Solution: in the spring, before flowering, plant 100-150 grams of urea in the ground or dilute this amount in 10 liters of water. Also, several times during the summer, chicken manure can be successfully used, which is used as follows: one part of it is mixed with four parts of water and left for 3-4 days. Then the resulting mixture is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and a solution is obtained that can be watered with gooseberries after flowering or harvesting. Watering takes place in a groove near the plant, but in no case under the bush itself.

The leaves turn red

Reddening of the leaves may be due to a lack of two trace elements - iron and boron. In this case, the red color warns of a problem.

Solution: 15-20 grams of ferrous sulfate is diluted in 10 liters of water (instead of ferrous sulfate, iron chelate can be used in the amount of 10 g per 10 l) and foliar feeding (spraying) of the plant is carried out. This method allows you to quickly deliver the missing trace elements to their destination, and after 3-5 days the redness should disappear.

It is much more difficult if, after redness, the leaves begin to turn brown, then dry out and fall off. This phenomenon is associated with the presence of a spider mite, which sucks juices from leaf plates. In dry and hot weather, this pest is most dangerous.

Spider mite - a small insect, but capable of sucking all the juice from the leaves and entangling them with cobwebs

Solution: pour half a bucket of flowering wormwood with 10 liters of water and let it brew for a day. Then boil for half an hour and dilute the resulting solution with water in a ratio of 1: 1, add 40 grams of soap.

Alternatively, you can use 400 grams of tobacco filled with 10 liters hot water. The mixture is left for two days and then 40 grams of soap are added to it.

Shoots or leaves dry up (leaves fall off)

Not only the spider mite is able to make the leaves dry and fall off. No less dangerous is the gooseberry shoot aphid, which attacks young succulent shoots in whole colonies and begins to feed on the vital fluids of the plant. It is easy to detect pest accumulations - the leaves at the ends of the shoots begin to deform, twist, forming a dense lump, inside of which light green plaques are visible - this is the aphid.

The ladybug is a natural enemy of the shoot aphid, which can be successfully used when an accumulation of pests is detected.

Solution: since the removal of damaged leaves is possible only in the early stages of aphids, it is almost never resorted to. Much more effective is the collection and planting on the affected shoots ladybugs- a natural enemy of aphids. Given the diligence of these beautiful insects, there is no doubt that after a while the aphid colony will, if not completely disappear, then be significantly reduced.

If you rely more on folk remedies and chemicals, then use a set of measures to combat aphids:

In early spring, the bushes are watered with hot water, and then during the period when the larvae appear, the drug "Fufanon" is used (10 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water - 1-1.5 liters are required per bush) or "Spark" (1 tablet per 10 liters of water - one bush requires 1.5-2 liters).
After the first procedures, the next ones are carried out in the summer. Use a tincture of garlic (200-300 g per 10 liters of water), which is thoroughly mixed and filtered. Ready solution is suitable for spraying.
Instead of this remedy or in addition to it, you can use 150-200 grams of onion peel, soaked in 10 liters of water and infused for 4-5 days. You can also use potato tops (1.2 kg) in the same amount of water, infused for 3-4 hours. Dry tops are used in the amount of 600-800 grams. Another option - 4 kg of crushed burdock leaves per 10 liters of water - leave for 2-3 days, strain and use for spraying.

Another pest that will cause the shoots and leaves to dry out and deform is the currant gall midge. Despite the name, she pounces on both currants and gooseberries with equal desire.

The currant gall midge is a small mosquito that harms the shoots and leaves of the gooseberry

Solution: for starters, it would be nice to prevent the pest from leaving for the winter - this will help autumn pruning damaged shoots, as well as burning leaves. Digging the ground under the bush and mulching the near-stem circle with peat 6 cm thick will further reduce the number of the pest.

Before flowering, as well as after harvesting, in addition to the Fufanon already known to us, karbofos can be used (60 g per 8 liters - 1-1.5 liters per bush). If you decide to spray during the ripening period of berries, it is better to resort to folk remedies like tincture of the same bitter wormwood or tomato tops - 4 kg of fresh or 400 g of dry water per bucket, leave for a day and add 40 g of soap. The bush takes 1.5 - 2 liters of solution.

And another pest that can destroy (eat) up to half of all shoots is currant glass. It damages precisely the gooseberry branches, which eventually dry out and break.

Currant glass - one of the main pests of gooseberry shoots, looks like a small wasp

Solution: the first measure to protect and treat the bush will be sanitary pruning in the fall and spring. Cut branches must be burned. In May - June, the ground under the bush is loosened and treated with the following mixture: 300 g of ash, 1 tbsp. mustard and ground pepper and 200 grams of tobacco dust. The ingredients are thoroughly mixed and scattered in 3-4 tablespoons under each bush. During the departure of butterflies (early June), gooseberries are treated with infusions of dry mustard (20-30 g per 1 liter of water - brew for two days, strain and dilute in 10 liters of water) or celandine (4 kg of plants without roots insist 1.5 days in 10 liters of water). After harvesting, you can use karbofos.

To a large extent contribute to the fall of leaves and various diseases. For example, anthracnose. It manifests itself at first in the form of small brown spots, which then spread over the leaf plates, and eventually the leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off, with the exception of those that are on the tops of the shoots.

Brown dots with yellow leaves give out developing anthracnose

Solution: Since anthracnose is caused by a fungus that overwinters on the leaves of the plant, the fallen part is collected and immediately burned to destroy the spores. This usually happens in the fall. But even in early spring, it is necessary to check for the presence of fallen leaves under the bush and, if found, burn them. We cut off the leaves affected by anthracnose, and spray the bush with a solution of copper sulfate (40 g per 10 l).

If the disease is in an advanced stage, we use 1% Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate and 100-120 g of quicklime per 10 liters of water). Spraying is done at least four times - before flowering and after it, then after 12-14 days the third time and the fourth time after harvesting.

White spot or septoria appears as a large number gray spots on leaves. Later, spores of the fungus appear in the form of black dots on the spots. The leaves begin to curl, dry up and fall off. If measures are not taken in time, the bush will remain without leaves.

White spotting (septoria) is easily distinguishable by light dots on the leaves

Damaged leaves on gooseberries clearly indicate the presence of pests. It can be either a sawfly or a moth.

The gooseberry sawfly is a real disaster for the gardener. Attacking a plant, with the efforts of the entire colony, in a couple of days, he can completely gnaw all the leaves on the bushes so that only veins remain from them. They hide in cocoons located in the ground in the berry zone. In the spring, when young leaves bloom, butterflies fly out of cocoons, lay eggs, and after 7-10 days the gooseberry is in great danger.

The gooseberry sawfly is able to leave only the main veins from the leaves in a couple of days.

Solution: to get rid of this harmful insect should be already in the fall, digging the ground under the bushes and destroying the larvae. In spring and summer, as soon as you see the larvae on the bush, shake them down, laying a film on the ground beforehand, and immediately destroy them. Collect and destroy the berries damaged by the sawfly immediately, otherwise the larvae will take advantage of the moment and leave them for the winter.

During the season, periodically spray with a solution of tomato tops, dry mustard or wood ash. If you already know the first two recipes, then it's time to talk about a solution of wood ash: pour 300 grams of sifted ash with boiling water and boil for half an hour, let it stand for a while, filter and dilute with 10 liters of water, adding 40-50 grams of soap. This composition can be sprayed twice a month.

If the sawfly gnaws the leaves to the veins, then the moth leaves behind only petioles. It begins to pose a danger to the plant since April, when the larvae emerge from cocoons under fallen leaves. Their main food is buds and young leaves.

Moth is able to gnaw leaves to petioles

Solution: in autumn and early spring, fallen leaves are collected and burned, the soil is dug up. Spraying with a solution of tobacco decoction or infusion of chamomile. For the second remedy, during the flowering period of chamomile, its inflorescences and leaves are collected - 1 kg. This mass is poured with 10 liters of water at a temperature of 60-70 degrees. The dishes are covered with a lid and infused for 12 hours, after which they are filtered and diluted three times, and 40 grams of soap are added for every ten liters.

Pharmacy chamomile can be planted along the edges of the site, and then such useful raw materials will be at your fingertips. In addition to protecting against insect pests, it will attract beneficial pollinating insects.

If there are a lot of pests, in early spring and summer (no later than 20-30 days before harvesting), karbofos is sprayed.

falling berries

The sawfly can cause the berries to fall off, because without leaves, the gooseberry no longer develops normally. But besides him, there is another terrible enemy - the gooseberry fire. During the blooming of leaves in spring, butterflies fly out of their cocoons in the ground, which lay their eggs inside the blooming flowers. And after a week and a half, caterpillars are born, capable of nibbling the existing ovaries in just a month. Berries damaged by larvae turn red long before ripening, then rot and fall off or remain hanging on the bush, entangled in cobwebs.

Gooseberry moth - a malicious pest that eats gooseberry ovaries

Solution: it is logical that in this case the earth needs to be dug up, destroying cocoons and larvae. In general, the set of measures to combat moth is similar to that applied to the sawfly - the berries are collected and destroyed, and spraying is carried out with the same compositions. In addition to the above methods, there is another method that works well in practice.

In autumn or spring, when the snow has just melted, trunk circle we tightly close it with roofing felt or other material similar to it. Butterflies will not be able to fly out and die. We repeat the same procedure next year.

Goblet rust is easily recognizable by the pads orange color on reverse side sheet

Solution: to avoid goblet rust, you need to buy gooseberries of those varieties that are resistant to this disease. When planting a bush, you need to choose places without stagnant water and those where sedge does not grow, which is an intermediate point for the settlement of the fungus.

Plants damaged by goblet rust are recommended to be sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid three times - when the leaves bloom, after flowering and 8-12 days after the second spraying.

White bloom / powdery mildew on berries and other parts of the bush, brown spots

Powdery mildew (aka sferoteka), which causes significant damage not only to gooseberries, but also to other plants, becomes a real disaster in the areas. Why is this happening?

The first signs of this disease can be seen after flowering - young shoots and leaves are covered with a white loose coating, which is easily erased. Then the disease passes to the ovaries and berries, spreads throughout the plant, and the white coating turns into a dark brown felt. Diseased shoots are bent, stop developing and dry out. The leaves curl and become brittle, and the berries also stop growing and crack, and then fall off. Within just two or three seasons, a whole gooseberry bush can simply die if urgent measures are not taken.

In addition, the problem lies in the fact that the spores of the fungus are easily carried by the wind and infect other plants. And you can’t rely on high summer or low winter temperatures - the fungus overwinters well on fallen leaves and affected shoots and easily tolerates heat.

Powdery mildew manifests itself as a whitish felt on leaves and berries, and its spores are easily carried by the wind

Solution: a long-term fight against the disease is very important, lasting the whole season - from early spring to late autumn. Fortunately, in the arsenal of the modern gardener there are many good ways deal with powdery mildew. Let's consider some of them:

Watering the bushes with hot water in early spring leads to the destruction of some of the spores.
It is necessary to treat gooseberries before bud break with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture (400-450 g of quicklime, 300 g of copper sulfate and 10 l of water) or a solution of soda ash (50 g per 10 l with the addition of 40 g of soap). Spray not only the bush, but also the ground around it.
At the same time, it’s a good idea to add wood ash to the trunk circle, mixing it with the ground, or mixing it with water (300 g per 10 l).
Tomato - very useful plant in the fight against powdery mildew, his stepchildren can go for the manufacture of the infusion already known to us, and the stems can be laid over the ground around the gooseberry for the winter.
The bacterial method of struggle is an original and effective solution. A kilogram of hay dust or rotted hay is poured into three liters of water and insisted for three days. The resulting solution was then diluted with water to 10 liters. Spraying with this agent is carried out in the evening in the absence of direct sunlight or in cloudy weather, since the bacteria in the solution die in the sun. But it is they who will render us an invaluable service by starting to eat powdery mildew mycelium. We carry out processing three times - before flowering, after it and before leaf fall.
In case of severe infection with powdery mildew, the garden is treated with Oxyx (20 g per 10 l of water), Fitosporin (15 ml per 10 l of water) or Topaz (1 ampoule per 10 l of water) preparations. The processing period is arranged in strict accordance with the instructions on the package.

Video: Gooseberry powdery mildew (sferoteka)

Treatment measures, pest treatment in autumn and spring

As is known, best protection from any pests - this is prevention, and it is an erroneous opinion that these events are tied to any one particular season. They can and should be carried out both in spring and autumn.

Growing a healthy gooseberry crop is not so difficult if you take care of the plant in time.

Among the vast number modern means pest control is easy to find. But we must not forget the folk tricks that allow you to increase the immunity of the bush, which means increasing its chances for a healthy life.

For example, in late March - early April, quickly water the bushes with a bucket of hot water (80 degrees) - the initial volume should be enough for 3-5 plants. After that, all the fallen leaves are raked from under the bushes and burned along with the pests and bacteria that overwintered on them.

When buds begin to form at the gooseberry, it is sprayed with a Rovikurt solution - (75 g per 10 l). This measure of protection against gall midges, aphids and sawflies. Against pests attacking buds, a solution of colloidal sulfur is used - 40 g per 10 liters.

Spend autumn sanitization gooseberries, removing all leaves affected by diseases and damaged by pests, as well as dry shoots. Gooseberries and the soil around it are treated with nitrofen - 200 g per 10 liters of water. The aisles are weeded, and the bush is watered abundantly - they dig a circular groove and pour 30 liters of water into it, after which they close it up. The trunk circle is mulched with peat about five centimeters thick.

Photo gallery of gooseberry prevention against insect pests

Actellik - perfect solution in the fight against spider mite Colloidal sulfur is used against pests that destroy buds and ovaries Karbofos - universal remedy against insect pests Nitrofen (nitrafen) - universal protection against pests

The best way to save yourself from the many hassles of caring for gooseberries is to purchase zoned varieties that are resistant to many diseases and pests. But it often happens that gardeners have their favorite varieties that they would never want to give up, despite their tendency to be affected, for example, by powdery mildew or anthracnose. In this case, it is easier to prevent the disease than to fight it. But even if the gooseberry has already suffered from some kind of ailment or pest, you should not give up - modern markets and shops have a lot of means to eliminate troubles, and this is not to mention the numerous folk recipes. Simply put, growing a full-fledged healthy gooseberry is entirely up to you.

Gooseberry, or "northern grape", is a berry that has become less common on garden plots. One of the reasons why gardeners do not want to grow this berry crop is its fungal diseases. We will talk about the disease that caused the gooseberry to become covered with white bloom and what to do to cure the plant, we will describe below. And also we will tell you how to process a white coating on a gooseberry in order to save the bush.

Reasons for the appearance of white plaque

“On my last visit to the country, everything was in order. And today all the berries on the bush turned white. What it is? Is it possible to eat such a gooseberry? - such questions are often asked by summer residents. The answer is simple, but unpleasant: the gooseberry fell ill with powdery mildew. The appearance of white mold on berries can be accelerated under certain weather conditions (lower temperature and higher humidity). Also, the fungus will develop on bushes that were sick with powdery mildew last year.

powdery mildew disease

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that can affect gooseberries or currants on different stages plant development. Powdery mildew should be treated in stages and systemically. A single treatment of the plant will not give a positive effect.

Manifestation and consequences

Fungal disease develops rapidly. From an infected bush, the disease can move to neighboring healthy plants even during watering or under the influence of wind. Therefore, do not delay the treatment of the plant from the disease. Here's what should alert you when examining berries:

Leaves, shoots or ripening fruits are covered with loose powdery coating of white color. Over time, it turns into a dark dense film, which is difficult to separate from the berry.
Berries change shape, shrivel, deform, crack and eventually dry out.
Curves appear on young shoots, then they darken at the tops and gradually fade.
Leaves turn yellow and fall off.

So, a white coating was found on the gooseberry. How to deal with this scourge:

we destroy (cut off and burn) the parts of the gooseberry infected with the disease;
we process the bush chemicals if the berries have not yet set or the crop has already been harvested;
during the ripening of berries we use only natural folk remedies;
we spray not only the bush itself, but also the ground under it, as well as neighboring plants.

Is it possible to eat berries affected by powdery mildew? Do they pose a threat to human health?

If the gooseberries are covered with a white coating, the choice of what to do is yours. Of course, gooseberries in white or dark patina, behind which the true color of the fruit is not visible, they do not look appetizing at all. But they can be eaten, after washing off the plaque. One of the options on how to quickly wash off black plaque from gooseberries is to soak the berries in warm, slightly salted water for half an hour, and then wipe each berry dry, mechanically removing the mold. From peeled berries you can cook jam, compote. As you can see, in order to wash the infected gooseberries, you need to make a lot of effort. It is easier to process the plant in time and prevent the manifestation of a fungal disease.

Proven advice: “People who suffer from seasonal allergies should not eat fruits in the raid. Spores of a fungal infection, getting inside, can cause a worsening of the condition of an allergic person.

Treatment with drugs

The use of an aqueous solution of copper sulfate when powdery mildew appears on gooseberries has been tested by many gardeners in practice. For the solution, take 100 g of powder and dilute it in 10 liters of water (correspondingly, 50 g of vitriol is taken for 5 liters of water, and 20 g for 2 liters). This is an early spring drug that is used for prophylactic purposes until the buds open. They process the bush itself, the soil under it and neighboring plants. Copper sulfate is dissolved in a small amount, for example 2 liters, warm water. Then the mixture is poured into a bucket and diluted with water to 10 liters.

To this aqueous solution of copper sulphate, 50 g of crushed soap can be added to ensure adhesion. This will enhance the processing efficiency. To get rid of the gooseberry disease for sure, experienced gardeners carry out a double treatment of infected plants antifungal drug"Topaz". The first treatment (spraying) is carried out before flowering, and the second - immediately after flowering. The copper-containing preparation "HOM" has proven itself well. To prepare a bucket of solution, take 40 g of powder Green colour. Processing is carried out on buds, flowers and, for the purpose of prevention, after harvesting.

Fight with folk remedies

When a white coating appeared on the gooseberries, what to do to save the crop must be decided quickly. If you missed the moment, and a bush with already formed berries fell ill, from chemicals better to refuse. Moreover, over the many years of bush cultivation, a lot of folk methods treatment. To combat powdery scourge use:

infusions of rotted hay;
mullein;
wood ash;
soda ash.

An infusion of rotted hay is prepared as follows: about 1 kg of rotted hay is added to 3 liters of water. Hay infusion is kept for 3 days, then filtered and diluted with water. To 1 liter of infusion add 2 or 3 liters of water. The result is a spray composition of 1:2 or 1:3. An aqueous infusion of mullein is prepared in the same way, which is especially effective for gooseberries. The number of main components and cooking time is the same as in the previous recipe. The finished mixture is diluted in a ratio of 1: 3 and the bushes are sprayed in the evening. In order to completely kill powdery mildew, the plant must be treated 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days.

Many gardeners use to combat garden pests dry wood ash, but the use of lye from wood ash for the treatment of plants is almost forgotten. Preparation of wood lye: 1/4 of the ash is poured into a 10-liter metal bucket and topped up with water. Then boil, add 50 g of grated laundry soap, cool and decant. Lye for spraying gooseberries and currants from white mold is ready. Soda ash (not to be confused with food) or lye are reliable helpers of every housewife, not only in the kitchen, but also in the garden. If the bush is sick with American powdery mildew, use this composition for spraying:

settled water - 10 l;
grated soap (preferably household) - 40 g;
soda ash - 50 g.

The spray solution is ready immediately after mixing and dissolving the components.

Anthracnose and septoria: ways to fight

Anthracnose and septoria are fungal diseases that occur on gooseberry and currant leaves. Lack of treatment leads to wilting of the leaves and weakening of the bush as a whole.

How the disease manifests itself and what causes infection

Anthracnose is a small brown tubercles-specks that cover the leaf plates. The spots gradually merge with each other. The peak of the disease is observed in cloudy, rainy weather in the middle of summer. The disease leads to wilting and shedding of leaves, starting from the lower shoots and gradually covering the entire plant. Septoria affects gooseberries and currants. At the same time, the leaves of the berries are covered with gradually growing light spots with a dark border. The development of septoria without treatment leads to the fact that the leaves on the bush dry out and fall prematurely, the stems wilt, acquiring a brown tint, the tops of the shoots wither. Septoria affects the plant in rainy but warm weather.

The use of finished products

In case of anthracnose disease, the following are used as ready-made preparations:

"Nitrofen";
Bordeaux liquid;
colloidal sulfur solution.

The same drugs are used after the first detection of septoria on gooseberries.

To prepare a one percent Bordeaux liquid, take:

100 g lime;
100 g of copper sulfate.

Each substance is separately dissolved in 1 liter of hot water. Both solutions are then made up to 5 L ( mortar strain) and mix.

To destroy the septoria fungus, fungicides are taken, which can be purchased at garden stores:

"Topaz";
Fundazol.

Spraying is carried out according to the instructions.

For those who are categorically against the treatment of plants with chemicals, there are many recipes for less toxic folk remedies, which can also be used during the ripening of berries. But such agents, as a rule, act weaker and slower than industrial fungicides.

Folk recipes

To protect gooseberry and currant bushes from fungal diseases, you can spray them:

infusion of tobacco;
shag;
elder fruits;
dandelion roots.

The recipe for infusion of shag: take 400 g of shag and 10 liters of hot (up to 70 ° C) water, mix and infuse for 2 days. 40 g of soap can be added to the spray solution.

General processing requirements

For the prevention of fungal diseases berry bushes carry out spring and autumn digging of the soil with the introduction of organic and mineral fertilizers. But spraying a bush is recognized as the most effective remedy for white plaque on fruits. Here are a few requirements to follow when spraying:

the solution is sprayed, achieving a fog effect;
process not only the upper, but also the lower part of the leaves;
the bush is processed from all sides;
the soil under the bush is also thoroughly moistened with a solution of the drug;
not only a diseased plant is treated, but also healthy ones located next to it;
work is carried out in the absence of wind early in the morning or in the evening;
when working with drugs (especially chemical ones), use protective equipment.

Prevention methods

The spring and autumn digging of the ground under the berry bushes, combined with the application of fertilizers, strengthens the plant's resistance to fungal diseases. Here are a number of simple and affordable control measures that help prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases and allow you to get rid of an existing disease. Trim the bush annually. Do not allow gooseberry plantings to thicken. Without any pity, remove extra branches: broken, diseased, low-lying. Choose the right place to land. The plant loves open, ventilated, heated areas. In such areas, bushes are usually not susceptible to fungal diseases. Give preference to new varieties. They are immune to powdery mildew, anthracnose and septoria. In the rainy season, when the temperature drops, carry out additional preventive treatment of plants.

In early spring, before bud break, treat the bushes with hot (up to 80 ° C) water. Such a "bath" will help protect plants from various fungal diseases. In autumn, remove all fallen leaves from under the bush, and use uncontaminated mulch instead. At right conditions Growing and caring for plants with strong immunity can resist any disease. In turn, neglected and weakened plants are prone to all sorts of infections.

Growing gooseberries in your garden, you may have noticed that a strange white coating appears on some leaves and berries. Especially often it appears on old bushes that were grown by your parents or their parents. This raid has a name -. This is a fungal disease that affects not only gooseberries, but almost all vegetable and fruit crops. In this article, you will learn about other symptoms of this disease, and what can be done to prevent it.

Powdery mildew or spheroteca is a fungal disease that develops at high humidity with the onset of spring heat. The main difficulty in the fight against this disease is that the fungus easily tolerates low temperatures and overwinters in plant debris, upper layers soil, as well as on infected bushes.

Spores of the fungus spread throughout the aerial part of the gooseberry. At first, it is a simple white coating that is easily erased. Over time, it darkens, acquiring a brown color and a denser structure. Leaves and shoots are deformed, twisting, and then wither and fall off.

However, in addition to powdery mildew, white spots on gooseberry leaves can be a symptom of septoria. The first signs of the disease appear at the end of May on gooseberry leaves. At first, these are gray spots with a brown or yellow rim, which eventually turn into a white coating with a dark rim. Already by August, the leaves affected by the bloom fall off, the growth of young shoots is inhibited, and the berries grow deformed and with a changed taste.

How to warn

Disease prevention is the best way to deal with it. With fungal diseases, this method works very well. The risk group includes adult plants that have been growing on the site for more than a year, as well as bushes that are weakened, for example, by transplanting. Young seedlings, especially hybrid varieties are more disease resistant.

First of all, gooseberries should be pruned. It is carried out in the spring, before the first buds appear, and in the fall, after harvesting and leaf fall. Dead, broken or diseased branches take a lot of resources and micronutrients from the bush, significantly weakening. The branches must be burned so as not to contribute to the cultivation and reproduction of the fungus, and the cuts on the bush should be covered with lime to protect the plant from infections.

In autumn, when the leaves fall from the gooseberries, they need to be raked and burned. Fungus spores may remain on them, which will grow with the first spring rays of the sun. During the growing season, all withered leaves and shoots affected by plaque or other pathological neoplasms must also be removed and burned.

In the spring, as soon as the last frosts pass, but before the buds appear, you need to pour gooseberry bushes with water heated to 80 ºC. This will help not only increase the immunity of the plant, but also save it from some insect pests.

In order not to burn yourself, pour water into watering cans and carefully water each bush, as well as the tree trunk. For greater efficiency you can add 2 tablespoons of potassium permanganate to the water.

Fertilizers play an important role in increasing the immunity of the gooseberry and improving its vegetation. If you add a mixture of potassium and phosphorus to the soil in the spring, you will significantly reduce the likelihood of disease. Whereas nitrogen fertilizers are more likely to harm the gooseberry, since it will go into an active set of green mass, while delaying fruiting, so that the berries will not have time to ripen in time. This will noticeably weaken the plant before fungal invasion.

Of course, as a prevention of diseases caused by a fungus, planting varieties resistant to powdery mildew and septoria are suitable. Among them are: "Kolobok", "Ural grapes", "Kuibyshevsky", "Grushenka", "Finnish", "Senator", "Harlequin", "African", "Houghton", "Masheka", "Jubilee". Varieties without thorns are less at risk. There are also varieties that are most susceptible to diseases: “Seedling Lefora”, “Date”, “Triumphal”, “Golden Light”, “Prunes”, “Russian”. If possible, do not plant them if your site has high humidity or plants that suffer from powdery mildew or septoria.

How to fight

What to do if a white coating appears on gooseberry leaves? Start rescue landings immediately!

First of all, for treatment, use the drug "Topaz", which has established itself as the best remedy from powdery mildew and septoria. It should be bred in accordance with the instructions, and the bushes must be processed twice - once before the gooseberries bloom and again after they bloom.

Another drug serves as a more potent analogue of the Bordeaux mixture, it is called "HOM". Bushes need to be processed before the gooseberries begin to bloom. A big plus of this drug is that it can be used in combination without fear for the health of the plant. So, for example, you can mix 40 g of “HOM” and an ampoule of “Fufanon” in 10 liters of water, and then spray the bush.

A good way to deal with plaque and prevent it from settling on healthy leaves is a solution of laundry soap and copper sulfate. You will need 150 g of grated soap, 20 g of copper sulfate and 10 liters of water. First, dissolve the vitriol in hot water, and then add a cool soapy solution to it. You should have a bluish solution without soap flakes. Spraying should be done immediately after flowering or when the berries are tied.

You can also mix 2 tablespoons of baking soda and 50 g of grated soap in 10 liters of water. Bushes, a near-trunk circle are watered with this solution, and plaque is also washed off the leaves.

As a medicine, ash infusion has proven itself well. To prepare it, 3 kg of wood ash is mixed in 10 liters of hot water and left to infuse for 24-28 hours. After it is filtered and sprayed with bushes every 10 days. At least 3 liters of solution should be spent on one bush.