Water was supplied to the bathroom through polypropylene pipes. Let's turn off the tap and dismantle the entire pipeline together with the mixer. In order to have water supply, we will attach a flexible hose to the tap and we will use it during the repair with our own hands.

There is a ventilation window under the ceiling, in which a fan was mounted and connected to electricity. Under it there is another entrance to the ventilation shaft, where the tin box coming from the kitchen is inserted.

Next in line is the bath. We disconnect it from the sewer and take it out of the room.

The sewerage laid in the bathroom has been in operation since the construction of the house. It's made from cast iron. Carefully, using a small sledgehammer, knock out the pipes from the entrance to the sewer riser.

The last to dismantle the toilet. It was connected to a cast-iron elbow, which is inserted into the sewer riser. To take out this knee - I had to suffer. They've done it right before. But there is still no reception against a sledgehammer and scrap. Just tap on the knee carefully, cast iron is a fragile material. Knocked, twisted - pulled out.

The floor was covered with ceramic tiles. During the repair, we also dismantled it using a perforator, having cleaned the floor to cement screed.

INSTALLATION OF THE WATER PIPE IN THE BATHROOM WITH YOUR HANDS

The plumbing, which we dismantled during the renovation, ran over the wall. From the condensate that collected on it, it turned black. To prevent this from happening again, we will hide it, where possible, in the walls. To do this, we will make strobes in the places where we plan to install the pipe with a perforator with a nozzle with a spatula. The depth of the strobe should be slightly greater than its diameter so that it can be completely plastered. This work is quite dusty, so we recommend closing cracks under the door with some material. In several places, the strobe needs to be enlarged so that the pipe fastening to the wall can be inserted.

For the installation of water supply, we chose pipes made of polypropylene. This is a modern, reliable and durable material with a long service life. To connect them, a special soldering machine with metal nozzles of different diameters is used. It works like this: we heat the device, at the same time insert the pipe and the coupling into the nozzles, wait until they melt and connect them together. After a few seconds, when the material has cooled down, the connection is ready for use.

Before installing the plumbing in the bathroom with our own hands, we carefully measure all dimensions, calculate the number of required couplings, corners, stopcocks and fittings. If the connection needs to be made detachable, we use special “American” fittings. With their help, part of the system can be separated without destroying it. We plan to install a water meter. Just before the counter and after it, we use “Americans” so that we can replace it if necessary. We will provide for the installation of a main filter for water purification. We solder the shut-off ball valve so that you can turn off the water before replacing the cartridge.

After the renovation in the bathroom, we will have 3 water points - one near the sink, the other - at the bathroom, the third - at the toilet. To two points we will bring cold and hot, to the toilet - only cold. After we fix the polypropylene in the strobes, we screw the valves to the fittings and supply water. It is necessary to check the system for leaks before we start plastering and tiling. In our case, everything turned out to be normal, you can start. But before that, we will make more small strobes to hide electrical wires in them. The bathroom had an outlet that was too high off the floor. During the repair, we will lengthen the wiring and lower it lower.

WALL PLASTER

First, we will plaster the window between the bathroom and the kitchen. From the side of the kitchen, it is already patched up, we will do the same in the bathroom. To do this, cut off the height of the opening aluminum profiles, fix them on the frame with screws.

Prepare the solution according to the instructions written on the packaging with the dry mix. Put it on a wide spatula and plaster the window.

To make it easier to lay ceramic tiles on the walls, they must be leveled. If the unevenness is large, you can use plaster beacons by setting them vertically in level. After that, we cover all the strobes with a mixture, then we completely plaster everything.

INSTALLATION OF TILE ON WALLS

To decorate the walls in the bathroom, we chose rectangular ceramic tiles. After waiting three days for the plaster to dry, we proceed to laying.

We will not tile under the bathroom. Let's start with the second row. So that it does not move out, we fix the rail along the entire length. Prepare the glue by mixing the dry mixture with water of the desired proportion with a mixer. We put it on the wall with a spatula, level it with a comb over an area equal to the size of one or two pieces and apply the tile, slightly pressing on it.

After laying the tile, wipe it off the adhesive residue. Then we take the grout of the desired color, stir it with water and rubber spatula carefully stitch the seams.

Next, we will fasten the “American” detachable fitting to it, we will attach the heating pipe to it.

To lay the pipe to the place of its installation,

INSTALLATION OF HEATED WATER FLOOR

On the bathroom floor, we decided to make a heating system. To do this, during the repair, we laid a welded mesh on a cement screed, attaching it to the floor with dowels and screws.

We connect the metal-plastic to the heating system using special corners and fittings. At the entrance to the water heated floor, we will install a valve to regulate the water pressure and a Mayevsky tap. At the exit we will put a shut-off valve. This is done so that you can completely turn off the warm water floor during a possible accident.

After we connect everything into one system, we fill the base of the bathroom with self-leveling properties. Pour the contents of the bag with the dry mixture into a container with water and mix thoroughly with a mixer. Be sure to maintain the proportions indicated on the packaging, otherwise the manufacturer of the mixture does not guarantee the declared strength of the self-leveling floor. After pouring the mixture onto the screed, roll it with a spiked roller to expel air bubbles.

After the rest, we proceed to the final stage of repair. In ventilation holes set decorative elements and an electric fan by connecting wires to it.

The self-leveling floor is dry, so ceramic tiles can be laid on it. Here the technology is the same as when laying it on the walls. We stir the glue, apply it to the base, level it with a comb spatula, lay the tiles.

Wait a day for the glue to dry.

Connect the water supply to the entry point. Immediately after the tap, we will install a water meter, after it - the main water purification filter.

The renovation is slowly coming to an end. Already n the time has come . It is installed on the frame that comes with it. Acrylic bathtubs are a modern industrial product. They are lighter than steel and cast iron, retain heat longer, are silent and practically do not fade.

First we assemble the frame, then we fasten the legs to it.

Next, we put floor cabinet together with the sink by connecting the tap to the water supply system, and the drain to the sewer pipe.

To install the toilet, you need to make marks in the places of its attachment to the floor,, insert plastic dowels into the holes and fix it with bolts, putting decorative plugs on top of them.

We hang a wardrobe and a shelf for toiletries on the wall. We connect the shelf to the electrical network.

Bottom acrylic bath close the screen, hang the curtain.

We glue skirting boards on the ceiling, hiding the bumps.

Video

How to make repairs in the bathroom, so that later you do not have to do the whole procedure again, correcting the shortcomings? This is a rather serious question that worries everyone who has the idea to remake this type of room.

Renovating a bathroom with your own hands can seem like a daunting task. In some way, this is how it is - for decoration, installation of equipment, electricians and other things, at least initial construction skills are certainly required. The bathroom and its repair is a topical issue at all times.

At the same time, it is worth noting that it is possible to start an independent comprehensive bathroom renovation only if there is a strong confidence in own forces and experience. Alteration in the bathroom is almost always associated with additional communications - plumbing, sewerage or gas pipes. Poor installation can cause an accident, which will lead to flooding not only of the bathroom itself, but also of the premises on the lower floors.

Perhaps for inexperienced craftsmen the best option will refuse to repair the bathroom in the house and entrust this work to hired specialists who will quickly and efficiently carry out any work in terms of complexity. If do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is the only possible variant so that the whole process goes smoothly and without problems, it is better to be guided by a number of recommendations. Bathroom renovation tips will help you complete the work efficiently and on time.

Bathroom renovation - is it that difficult?

The bathroom is a place where a humid climate is constantly maintained. After hygiene procedures, moisture settles on the walls, ceiling and floor of the room in the form of condensate. This is precisely the main problem that complicates the construction work in the bathroom with your own hands. Classic Decoration Materials, such as wood or wallpaper in such a room are of little use. How to renovate a bathroom in accordance with all safety and quality requirements?

For many, the problem of renovating a bathroom becomes a real nightmare in reality. A wide range of consumables and finishing materials, plumbing and tools for work is confusing, and it becomes difficult to understand where to start work, how long it will take and what investments it will require. To understand this, first you need to decide how deep you need to make repairs in the bathroom. This is a decisive factor that will form an idea of ​​the whole process.

The following bathroom renovation options are available:

• cosmetic;
• capital.

In the first case, no major alteration work is carried out. All that is required is the replacement of an outdated finish with a new one, in rare cases, an update of plumbing or simple communications (for example, replacing a clothes dryer). Such a partial renovation of the bathroom does not take much time and effort. Also, in most cases, it does not require significant cash outlays.

Overhaul the bathroom is a task of another level. As a rule, rework from scratch is required for very old rooms with a completely faulty communications system and non-working plumbing, as well as for new rooms without finishing. It is not always possible to make a complete repair quickly. This is a complex multifaceted process that requires careful preparation and a high level of professionalism from the master. For this reason, complex bathroom renovations are most often trusted by specialists.

What are the steps for a bathroom renovation?

The bathroom and its repair is a topical issue at all times. Having decided to start the alteration on your own, you should follow a certain sequence in your actions. Chaotic work can cause errors that lead to unreasonable additional expenses that the owners of the bathroom do not need. That is why it is so important to follow the order of renovation in the bathroom.

An approximate sequence of repairs in the bathroom is as follows:

1. Remodeling planning.
2. Preparatory work in room.
3. We do waterproofing.
4. Installation of communications (sewerage, plumbing, heating).
5. Electrical work.
6. Finishing works (plastering, finishing).
7. Installation of the ventilation system and installation of equipment.

Depending on whether the bathroom is being refurbished or overhauled, some items from this list can be removed - however, in most cases, all of the above stages are the main ones during the work. How to make repairs in the bathroom correctly and efficiently, without missing important nuances, detailed below.

Stage 1. Planning for rework

The first question that comes to mind is where to start renovating a bathroom? Actually, the beginning of any repair work in an apartment or house is preceded by the planning stage. In order to clearly imagine the scope of future work, as well as the expenses to be made for the purchase of consumables, plumbing and the necessary tools, a detailed rework project should be drawn up.

A phased do-it-yourself bathroom renovation begins precisely with a work plan and drawing up a future interior. Such things are most often done by professional hired designers - they will help make the bathroom beautiful and unique. Now in almost any city you can find a lot of agencies offering interior design services for all types of premises - including bathrooms.

The design project includes many aspects of the future renovation - for example, the arrangement of the bathroom, the list of materials needed for work and their cost, deadlines, and much more. In other words, this is a detailed instruction with which you can make a quality step by step repair bathroom.

If circumstances do not allow you to seek help from a specialist, you can draw up a project yourself.

There is a huge amount of free stuff available on the internet. software, with which even a novice computer user can create a three-dimensional 3D model of the future premises.

To do this, it is enough to know the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bathroom and its exact plan. But how to equip the bathroom will no longer be decided by the designer, but by the owner himself, based on his own tastes.

• ceramic tiles (optimal cost option);
• plastic panels (economical and high-quality material);
• porcelain stoneware (durable, but quite an expensive option for finishing).

These finishing materials are ideal for the bathroom. They are durable, heat-resistant and perfectly tolerate high humidity. This is extremely important, because with insufficient hydrophobic properties of the materials used for exterior finish, there is a high risk not only of their damage, but also the development of mold and fungus - and this already makes repairs hazardous to health.

Stage 2. Preparatory work in the room

Having started the renovation of the bathroom on your own and having decided on the amount of work to be done, it is necessary to prepare the room directly for the process. To do this, it should be completely cleared of obsolete appliances, finishes and communications - how to repair a bathroom if it is clogged with construction debris?

The dismantling process is greatly accelerated by the presence of a perforator and a set of special drills. With this tool, you can easily remove the old layer of tiles, dried adhesive mixtures, plaster. It is necessary to act as quickly as possible, but carefully - the walls of the bathroom should eventually be completely cleaned of traces of previous repairs.

Next to the walls, you should get rid of the cement screed on the floor. However, if over the years of service it has not lost its functionality and at the moment current repair it seems quite reliable, you can use it as a base, after cleaning it with a grinder with a diamond nozzle-circle. The repaired floor will significantly reduce the time and amount of rework.

However, at the slightest sign of destruction (chips, cracks, visible irregularities), it is better to dismantle and fill the floor again.

After the construction debris has been removed from the premises, the comprehensive renovation of the bathroom can be continued. All cleaned surfaces should be carefully primed with special compounds (you can buy them at any hardware store).

Stage 3. Waterproofing procedures

After preparing the surfaces, construction work should begin with the laying of a waterproofing layer. This is a very important part of the renovation. It is on the quality of waterproofing that the calmness of the owners and neighbors from below will depend, because in case of emergency it should prevent moisture from penetrating under the floor.

To protect against water, a special waterproofing film is used. In specialized stores for repairs in the bathroom, it is made from the following materials:

• aquaizol;
• polyester.

Laying the waterproofing layer yourself is quite simple. To do this, you just need to follow certain rules. For example, when laying on a surface, the film must be carefully checked for integrity. When calculating the right amount of material, it should be borne in mind that the film should lie on the floor with a margin of 15-20 centimeters. At the same time, it is not necessary to cut it along the edges - just gently bend it.

Do-it-yourself repair also involves insulating joints if the dimensions of the room are too large compared to the width of the film. You can carry it out with the help of a special tool - a building hair dryer - or with the help of a special mastic.

Stage 4. Installation of communications

The next stage is the holding of all kinds of pipes to ensure the health of the plumbing. Like all stages of bathroom renovation, it requires special care during the work.

Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is almost always associated with the installation of plumbing and sewage systems. How to conduct communications yourself and what is needed for this?

First, before you install, you should take care of drawing up a pipeline diagram. In modern apartments and houses, all communications are usually assembled into one "bundle", which runs along the most convenient wall of the room. In the future, it is masked by tiling or plastic. For individual elements of the plumbing system (for example, for the installation of built-in mixers), wall chasing may be required. This occupation is quite laborious, but it allows you to hide communications in the thickness of the wall so that they do not spoil the interior of the bathroom with their appearance.

Secondly, for starters, it is better to install the sewer. This is the easiest step that can be done in just a couple of hours if you have the right number of pipes, couplings and sealant.

Further, a comprehensive bathroom renovation involves the installation of plumbing. As a material, it is best to use polypropylene pipes - they are inexpensive and at the same time as reliable as possible. Fittings for them should also be purchased from plastic, this will avoid additional costs for hardware. Polypropylene pipes at correct installation serve more than 10 years and can safely hide in the walls. The risk of leakage in this case is minimal.

If the bathroom has a system central heating, then installation of the coil will also be required.

Stage 5. Electrical work

Wiring, by definition, is very poorly tolerated high humidity. What is the procedure for repairing a bathroom if you need to install lighting or sockets for appliances?

First of all, you need to purchase all the materials necessary for installation:

• electrical cable;
• corrugation and junction box;
• connection terminals;
• sockets, switches;
• lamps, etc.

The cable should be used with a double insulating layer. It must be placed in a protective corrugation (metal or plastic). Often reckless and quick repair in the bathroom involves external wiring, but this is best avoided - the closer the cable is to the external environment, the greater the risk of a short circuit. The best option is hidden wiring, which involves shaving the walls.

When connecting wires, special terminals should be used. It is also desirable to carefully isolate all connections with electrical tape. All key nodes should be located in an accessible place and placed in special plastic cases.

It should be noted that not all lamps are suitable for placement in the bathroom, but only with a moisture protection index (IP) of 3 and higher. This will ensure that moisture does not get into the devices, which can cause a short circuit.

Stage 6. Finishing work

After the work on all communications is completed, the comprehensive renovation of the bathroom proceeds to the next stage - finishing. This stage involves the alignment of the walls and the further laying of tiles.

To make a bathroom renovation, you need to go through two stages of finishing:

• starting;
• finishing.

Starting involves the application of the main layer of a special mortar. It has high tenacity and easily connects to the surface. The made starting layer is quite thick and is up to 250 mm. It is applied gradually, in two stages. This allows for better alignment.

Lastly, a finishing layer is applied, making the surface of the wall even more even. After that, you can easily move on to finishing with ceramic tiles. It is laid on the level, both on the floor and on the walls with the help of special cruciform beacons and fixed with a special adhesive.

It is better to make the ceiling in the bathroom stretch - this is the best option both in terms of price and waterproofing properties. If you need cosmetic repairs in the bathroom, this option can also be taken into account. Installation stretch ceiling very simple and will freshen up the look of the room.

Stage 7. Installation of the ventilation system and installation of equipment

Many people are interested in how to repair the bathroom, but they pay more attention directly to the finishing and installation of communications, forgetting about the ventilation system. Meanwhile, its presence and proper functioning can significantly extend the life of the repair. And in general, how can you make repairs in the bathroom and not think about ventilation?

How to make the bath well ventilated, avoiding the formation of excessive condensate? To do this, it is necessary to leave space for natural and artificial ventilation in the room. Each bathroom has a special hole in the wall that has access to the house's general ventilation system. When carrying out finishing, you need to remember this and not close it. In the future, a special grate is installed in this place, which is equipped with a grid - it retains small particles, but does not interfere with air circulation.

Rooms with poor natural ventilation may require the installation of a dedicated fan. With its help, unnecessary steam will be forcibly removed from the bathroom. Most often, bathrooms provide combined air exchange, when the repair allows you to install your own fan and additionally use a natural outlet. This solves the problem of how to make the bath well ventilated.

In general, repairs carried out inside the bathroom must be carried out in accordance with all quality and safety requirements. There are certain stages of bathroom renovation that require consistent execution. Only if a certain sequence is observed during the installation of communications and finishing, construction work will be carried out quickly and will cause zero problems when using the premises.

Features of bathroom renovation involve the use of only high-quality materials that are resistant to impact. high temperatures and moisture. Otherwise, there is a risk of their premature deterioration, as well as the development of fungi and molds that are dangerous to human health.

Bathroom remodeling is a multi-faceted process, and many don't know where to start. Indeed, if you approach this issue without preparation, you can find yourself in a difficult situation. However, when using all the above tips, making a bath with your own hands is not difficult.

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Budget repair in the bathroom - 6 stages that will allow you to meet 7500 rubles

Description of the workflow

To better understand all aspects of this topic, I will explain on specific example. So we have:

• a typical room in a nine-story building of the P-44 series;
• the size of the room is 1.7 by 1.7 meters, the ceiling height is 2.64 meters.

We will consider how much the decoration will cost us, I will not touch on the plumbing, since most often if the repair is done as economically as possible, then these elements do not change.

Stage number 1 - competent organization of the process

If you want to save on repairs, then these rules should become fundamental for you:

Another very important recommendation, which directly affects the cost of the project - the use of those materials that are easy to work with and that you can lay or attach with high quality. Many times I completed repairs for those who overestimated their strength and, having completed a small part of the repair, realized that they would not master it. Then, of course, you need to spend a lot of money on the wages of the builder.

Be prepared for the fact that you will have to spend a lot of time and instead of cozy quiet evenings watching TV, you will have to destroy, level, lay, saw, fasten, and so on. There is no free cheese in mousetraps, you will have to pay for the savings with your time, but if you take into service all the tips from this article, then the costs will be minimal.

You must have a work plan in advance in order to make an economical repair from scratch with your own hands, you need to clearly plan each step and accurately calculate the materials so as not to purchase too much. Just read all the sections below, and based on them, you can easily draw up a clear plan.

Stage number 2 - the acquisition of everything you need

I will tell you how the simplest estimate for bathroom renovation is compiled - the sample can be adapted to your room in order to carry out all the calculations. The estimate is a list of the necessary materials indicating their quantity and cost, since we carry out the work ourselves, it makes no sense to include their cost, unless you assign yourself a financial incentive for a successfully implemented project.

The calculation of the cost is made for the individual parts of the room, we will consider each of them and start with the floor. Linoleum will be laid on the floor, let's figure out how to choose it:

• Since the room is damp, you should purchase options without a base or based on PVC, since it is not afraid of dampness and mold and fungus do not form in it.
• The dimensions of the bathroom are 1.7x1.7, the area is 2.89 square meters, but no one will cut the material according to our sizes, it is sold in running meters. In our case, the optimal width is 2 meters, since there will be the least waste from it, we need 2 linear meters, that is, 4 squares;

• Having called all the retail facilities, I found a PVC-based option, which cost 224 rubles per square meter. Upon inspection, I made sure that the surface is strong without damage and marriage, the substrate is elastic, and the material is . As a result, I paid 896 rubles for 4 squares;
• In order for the joints of the floor and walls to be neat, a plinth is needed, I found a plastic "Comfort" at 56 rubles apiece 2.5 meters long. We need to close 3 walls, and on the fourth there is a door 60 cm wide with 8 cm cashing, that is, the opening takes 76 cm. waste from elements that will go to the walls;

• As a result, you need to purchase 3 skirting board strips for 56 rubles each, 4 inner corners for 35 rubles each and two plugs - right and left for adjoining door frame, they cost 27 rubles. Adding all the results, we get (56x3) + (35x4) + (27x2) = 362 rubles;

• To fix the baseboard, we will use liquid nails, I bought a convenient 200 ml tube for 104 rubles.

Now let's summarize all the expenses: I spent 896+362+104=1362 rubles on finishing materials for the floor, compared with conventional projects, the amount is several times less.

We will level the ceiling with putty and paint with moisture resistant white color, so we need the following materials:

• To level the surface, I use the composition "Vetonit VH", which is designed for use in wet areas and guarantees a reliable result. The ceiling did not have significant irregularities, so one bag of composition weighing 20 kg is enough, which costs 456 rubles;

• For painting, we need paint for wet rooms, I chose the latex-based option. You need to apply the composition in 2-3 layers, so I bought a 3 kg package, for which I paid 190 rubles;

• To treat the surface and strengthen it, a primer is needed, I purchased Tikkurila products with a volume of 900 ml for 124 rubles, this is quite enough for our purposes.

Now we summarize all the costs: 456 + 190 + 124 = 770 rubles we need for the ceiling.

Let's move on to the most expensive part - the walls, for them I chose PVC panels 250 mm wide and 2.7 meters long - there will be a minimum of waste. This material is not afraid of moisture, it is easy to wash, so it is suitable for the bath just fine.

Let's figure out what we need to work:

• It is necessary to calculate the number of panels, with their width of 250 mm, you need to divide the length of the walls by this indicator. But we must not forget that on one of the surfaces there is an opening measuring 700x2100, on one side of it there will be one whole panel, on the other three, and above the doors we will need three pieces 540 mm long, that is, we will cut one element. So, on the wall with the door we need 4 whole panels, remember this figure and move on;
• Divide the wall length of 170 cm by 25 cm, we get 7 panels, multiply this result by 3 and get 21 pieces. We add 4 panels from the above paragraph and get 25 elements - so much is needed to decorate the walls in the bathroom. I found products for 127 rubles apiece, the total costs amounted to 3175 rubles;
• For installation, we need components, first of all, this is an internal corner, these elements are sold in pieces of 3 meters and cost 50 rubles. We need 4 pieces, that is, the costs will be 200 rubles;
• Above, below and along the perimeter of the opening, I decided to put a starting profile, which is sold in pieces of 3 meters, you need 4 elements upstairs, 2 elements to frame the doorway, you can also join the pieces at the bottom, since this part will be closed with a plinth, but you still need 1 whole piece. In total, 7 starting bars are needed, the costs at a price of 45 rubles will be 315 rubles;
• We will mount the panels on a bar measuring 25x50 mm, it will be located horizontally in increments of 30 cm so that the surface is strong and does not sag. With a height of 264 cm, 9 rows need to be fixed, we count in running meters 9x1.7 = 15.3 meters, multiply by 3 whole walls and get about 46 meters;

• Less material will go on the wall with a door, 3 pieces 170 cm long, 6 pieces 80 cm long and 6 pieces about 20 cm long. In addition, you need to nail vertical strips along the opening, 2 pieces 210 cm each for its secure frame. As a result, we get the following result (170x3) + (80x6) + (20x6) + (210x2) = 1530 cm or the same 15.3 meters;
• Summing up all the numbers, we get 61.3 meters, the bar is sold in pieces of 3 meters, that is, we need 21 pieces. We have lumber of this type costs 40 rubles apiece, that is, I spent 840 rubles for the entire volume;
• I will fasten all the elements using a stapler, I will need staples, a package of 1000 pieces costs 45 rubles, and this is quite enough for the job.

• The bar will be fastened with dowels quick installation 6x50, about 200 pieces will go to all the walls, at a price of 25 rubles, the cost is 500 rubles.

Let's calculate all expenses: 3175+200+315+840+45+500=5075 rubles.

For clarity, I will show all the results in a pivot table:

As you can see, a cheap do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is not a fantasy or a fairy tale, while I did not use the cheapest compounds and materials, everything that I purchased is different good quality and attractive appearance.

Stage number 3 - dismantling of old coatings

It is impossible to carry out work without removing the old tile or without removing the worn floor covering. Of course, if you have a floor or ceiling in good condition, then it makes sense to leave them. For example, if the tile on the floor looks normal, then you can freshen up the surface by removing the old grout and filling the joints with a new compound. The same applies to the ceiling: if it is even, then you can remove the old coating and repaint it.

But in practice, most often it turns out like this, then you need to do the floor, and the walls, and the ceiling, so I will consider just such an option, before making repairs on a budget, I will have to sweat to remove the remnants of old coatings.

The following work is to be done:

• On the ceiling, most often old whitewashing or paint that has turned black from time to time. Sometimes there are many layers on the surface, and it takes a lot of time to remove them. I use a scraper, but you can use a spatula, knife and any other device convenient for you, the main thing is that you can remove the old coating;

Old whitewash and water-based paint will come off much easier if the surface is well moistened and left for 20-30 minutes.

• As for the walls, they can either have many layers of paint and whitewash, or old tiles. The compositions are cleaned off as described above, but you will have to tinker with the tiles, it is best to use a puncher with a special blade for work. If there is no power tool, then you will have to work the old fashioned way - with a hammer and a chisel, the work is tedious, but one way or another it needs to be done;

• Lastly, the floor surface is prepared, in my case there was linoleum, so the work was simple: I removed the old coating and got a flat surface, completely ready for work. If you have an old tile, you will have to tinker, removing it from the surface, the same tools are used for work as in the paragraph above.

Naturally, you need to take out everything superfluous from the room, you should only have prepared walls left.

Stage number 4 - finishing the ceiling

It is from this part of the bathroom that I advise you to start work for the simple reason that a lot of dust will form in the process, and the putty may fall down. The finishing option that I am considering is the most budgetary - you can achieve an excellent result with your own hands for the simple reason that the ceiling area is small and it will not be difficult to perfectly align it even with a lack of experience.

The work instructions look like this:

• First you need to check the plane with a level or a flat bar to see what irregularities need to be eliminated;
• The surface must be treated with a primer to strengthen it and remove dust, the composition is applied with a brush and dries for about an hour;
• Then the composition is prepared, it retains plasticity for a couple of hours, so I advise you to do no more than 5 liters at a time, your work speed will be low, so you are unlikely to use up more. All the features of mixing the composition are indicated on the packaging, so there should not be any problems with this part of the work;

• The first layer needs to eliminate all significant irregularities, if there are none, then simply putty the entire surface, creating a kind of base, do not worry about stains, they will be eliminated. After the surface dries, the influxes are easily cut off with a spatula, after which you need to check it with the level again;
• The second layer should level the ceiling, try to do the work carefully, there may be sagging on the surface, but the holes should not remain, since they cannot be eliminated. In extreme cases, you can walk a third time if the ceiling was uneven and you have to display a plane with large drops;

• After drying, the dirtiest part lies ahead - grouting the surface, bring a respirator and goggles, as when sanding, the dust will fly into the eyes and enter the respiratory tract. In order to control the plane, use a simple trick: hold a light bulb near the surface, it perfectly shows all the irregularities and allows you to perfectly level the surface at one time;
• After finishing work, the surface is cleaned with a brush or broom, after which it can be painted. The work is carried out in 2-3 layers, you can use both a brush and a roller, it all depends on convenience. Each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Stage number 5 - flooring flooring

When considering how to make a floor economically, linoleum will always be out of competition, not only due to its low price, but also the reliability and durability of the coating. In the bathroom, this coating is placed very simply:

• The surface is cleaned of dust and debris, it can be wiped with a damp cloth to clean as well as possible;
• Next, the material is spread, it will go onto the walls, so you need to place it evenly, after which the excess is cut off with a construction or any other sharp knife. Do this carefully, as it is unlikely that you will be able to glue what is cut off by mistake;

The joint in the opening can be glued liquid nails, but you can close the bar

Due to the fact that the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is small, plus there will be a bathtub on the surface, there is no need to glue linoleum, but if you want to strengthen the coating, you can use double-sided tape. The plinth will be fixed subsequently, on this this stage can be considered complete.

Stage number 6 - wall decoration

First, a process diagram is presented, and below each stage is described in detail:

• The frame is leveled; when attaching elements, you can put chips and pieces of wood under them to output the ideal plane. A hole is drilled in the bar, then a hole in the wall is drilled right through it and a quick-mount dowel is hammered. You can fill your hand in literally 10 minutes, so the process will go quickly;

• Then, corners are attached in the corners, and a starting profile is attached above and below, as well as around the perimeter of the opening.. The main thing is to accurately cut the bar at the joints so that everything looks neat. Fastening is done using a stapler, it is very fast and very reliable;
• A panel is inserted into the upper and lower guides and wound into a corner, after which it is fixed with brackets to the bars. The work is done until the entire wall is finished, the last plank is cut so that it is 3-4 mm wider, the corner or the starting profile is slightly bent and the element falls into place. Plastic bends well, but you still shouldn’t be too zealous, do everything carefully.

After finishing the walls, you can glue the plastic plinth, do not forget to put the corners and plugs so that all the elements fit perfectly with each other.

This is a simple example of how to make a cheap bathroom renovation, even if you spend 1-2 thousand more, but still the costs are not comparable to those that you would incur using standard materials and hiring builders.

Conclusion

It is quite possible to transform the bathroom, while spending a little more than 7 thousand, and I showed this with a specific example. I tried to talk about everything in detail so that you can understand the topic, and the video in this article will clearly show some important points to better understand some of the nuances. If you have any questions - write them in the comments below.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation costs 1.5-2 times cheaper than the same renovation made by a team of workers. Therefore, if you have the necessary knowledge, skill, free time and want to save money, then this option is for you. But remember that inexpensive repair a bathroom made by oneself may be inferior in quality to repairs made by professionals.

Preparation for repair

Cheap bathroom renovations are, by definition, do-it-yourself projects. Therefore, preparation for it includes several stages. Let's look at each of them.

Layout and design

First of all, you need to decide on the future design of the bathroom, draw the layout of the bathroom - this will further depend on complex work with pipes and plumbing, and the need for additional wiring.

Cost calculation

Familiarize yourself with the prices in the construction markets. So you can understand whether all your ideas are feasible and how they fit into the budget.

For example, we will give a table with the cost of materials for an inexpensive self-repair of a bathroom:

Purchase of materials

Buy Construction Materials you need based on the size of your bath. The volume of necessary materials can be suggested to you by the seller himself in the market or in a hardware store.

3-5% is laid on the battle of tiles when repairing a large bathroom and 7% when repairing a small one.

When buying cement, mixtures, sand, grout, putty, sealant or silicone, you need to add 30% to the required volume. Let it be better for you to have an extra bag of dry glue than it ends at a crucial moment.

Stages of work

Bathroom renovation is carried out in a strictly defined sequence:

• Thinking through the interior;
• Determining the number of plumbing fixtures;
• Preparation of the bathroom for renovation work;
• Purchase of building materials;
• Floor preparation (optional: waterproofing, screed, installation of a warm floor system);
• Laying pipes and wiring;
• Plaster;
• Ceiling decoration;
• Floor finishing;
• Wall covering;
• Installation of the ventilation system;
• Bathtub and sink installation.

Let's proceed directly to the repair itself and consider in detail each stage.

materials

Pipes

Do-it-yourself work with steel pipes is fraught with many difficulties, but today it is the cheapest option on the market. Another disadvantage is that such pipes rust inside and they will have to be changed relatively soon.

Tile

Porcelain stoneware is a little more expensive than tile, but its strength is many times higher. Even smooth porcelain stoneware is completely non-slip, which is why we highly recommend choosing it as your flooring.

Tip: When buying, ask the consultant in the store to get 5-6 tiles from different packs and check their sizes.

Tools

You are doing a DIY bathroom renovation as shown in the video below, so choose a slow drying adhesive. It will allow you to work without haste, eliminate errors in time and control the quality of masonry.

A spatula will fit with 4-6 mm deep teeth unless otherwise indicated on the adhesive label.

Buy a tile cutter with a diamond drill, and for laying porcelain stoneware or tile with seams, it is best to use plastic crosses.

Bathroom preparation

Let's say your previous bathtub is not worn out yet, then you can update its appearance with an acrylic liner. But we recommend sending the old tin "trough" for scrap.

Before you start repairs, turn off the water and strip the bath to the “bare” walls. The wiring will also need to be turned off. During the repair, you can use a portable lamp and an extension cord - this is not usual, but safe.

Clean all walls, ceiling and floor. Start working from top to bottom. Use a respirator when cleaning. The tile is easily removed with a perforator and a chisel. Loose plaster is removed completely, Durable - leveled.

Floor preparation

Old tiles and cement backing must also be removed from the floor. If the screed is good, you can leave it; if not, remove it with a puncher. If, upon careful inspection of the screed, you notice only one or two small cracks, they can be eliminated with a liquid equalizer.

The layer of the self-leveling floor should be approximately 3-3.5 cm. But before that, the floor is waterproofed with aquaizol or polyethylene terephthalate.

Important: It is necessary to cover the walls with waterproofing at least 30 cm.

Communications and preparation of walls, ceiling

Pipes

Sewerage should be done taking into account easy access to it for inspection, cleaning, removing blockages and necessary repairs. Therefore, we advise you to run sewer pipes along the bottom, along the walls, and close them with galvanized tiles. Galvanization is attached to silicone and, if necessary, access to pipes can be easily removed using a special knife.

The replacement of all pipes begins precisely with sewerage. You will be able to cope with this task in one, maximum two days, and then proceed to the water pipes.

Wiring

All wires are laid to the plaster. The wire with double insulation is hidden in the corrugation - plastic or metal, depending on the budget.

Plaster

You need to plaster twice. Here, the quality of the work will play a big role, since you are plastering under the cladding. You will have to plaster, as always, starting from top to bottom.

Ceiling insulation

Even in the warmest apartment, when repairing a bathroom, it will be necessary to insulate the ceiling. This will allow you to avoid the formation of condensate, which, by the way, is the main cause of problems with the safety of the repair.

For this purpose, it is best to use LSU (glass-magnesium sheet) on silicone or special glue. Remember that while it dries, you will need strong supports.

Finishing in the bathroom

Ceiling

This is the most problematic part of the bath. Regardless of your decision to make an inexpensive bathroom renovation, you will have to pay special attention to the ceiling.

Most suitable options for finishing the ceiling - this is an artificial laminate or plastic lining. If you chose the first option, then before gluing the laminate, the inside will need to be treated with a special PVA emulsion. Here you will also need slats, which can be removed only after the adhesive has completely dried.

Floor

Floor tiles are laid on mounting adhesive. Here it is better to avoid the presence of seams. The adhesive is applied with a spatula wrong side tiles and on the floor itself.

Important: laying floor tiles must be started from the entrance, so incomplete tiles will hide under the bathroom.

To avoid the appearance of voids under the tile, it must be tapped with a rubber mallet immediately after laying.

Perhaps you have decided to lay a wooden floor in the bathroom. It looks noble, and it is pleasant to walk on it, but this option is much more expensive and more difficult to install and operate. So think twice before choosing this option.

From wood, you can use larch impregnated with PVA and covered with moisture resistant acrylic varnish. When laying, step back from the wall by 2-3 cm, and then fill this gap with foam and close it with a plinth.

Walls

Usually tiles are chosen for walls. It's over a budget option than porcelain stoneware, and its strength does not play a decisive role here. Wall cladding in the bathroom is done using plastic crosses, which are subsequently removed, and the seams are filled with grout, silicone or sealant.

The tile is laid on the glue, after it dries, the corners are filled with silicone. Excess silicone is immediately removed with vinegar. Sometimes the corners are decorated with special overlays, which are also attached to silicone, but this is not necessary.

Plumbing installation

Installing plumbing fixtures is actually the most a simple step work. It's much easier than many people think. The whole process is described in detail in the instructions for each item.

First, the bath or shower is installed, then the sink. After the mixers are mounted, water heaters and water meters are installed. The hood and waterproof lamp are installed last. In the photo you can see examples of successful do-it-yourself bathroom renovations.

Video