Construction trailers, cabins, make drawings. How to build a wooden shed on a metal frame

Good day to you, dear researchers of the world of homestead farming! Today I would like to discuss with you one important issue. Tell me where at the dacha you store working tools and various garden tools? Just please be honest. If you have a garage at your dacha, this is a definite plus. Hammers with a saw, as well as a sprayer and a set of secateurs can be placed on one of the many shelves.

It’s not easy for those who don’t have a car or, at worst, a bicycle. A shovel and rake can be hidden in the far corner of the veranda of a country house. Or place the entire arsenal of necessary gardening aids in a cramped shed, between a portable barbecue and shelves for household clothes. Of course, in such chaos it is difficult to find required item on the first try. But it’s compact, the summer residents will object. And it’s simple - you don’t need to invent anything.

Why do you need a change house at your dacha?

Agree, on an ideal summer cottage with blooming flower beds, gushing from the ground like a fountain, paved natural stone paths, a chopped bathhouse, a dilapidated shed for equipment will look somewhat comical. Moreover, next to a solid cottage or a neat brick house. We make every effort to ensure that complete order and harmony reigns on the site. Therefore, today I propose to talk about how to build a change house at your dacha yourself.

A change house, or utility room, is a small house for storing various gardening utensils. And everything else that has no place in the house - children's toys, sun loungers, a folding bed, a change of clothes and shoes for country work. And also a lawnmower, fishing rods, folding table for gatherings by the fire... You never know what we use at the dacha for work and leisure! It is precisely these items that can be stored in the change house so as not to clutter up your own living space in the house.

Some craftsmen adapt a household building into a mini-garage, and also, during the cold season, install a rabbitry or poultry house in it, and place hives for wintering. In short, this simple structure has many options for functional use, it all depends on the specific needs of each individual owner. Regardless of what kind of activity you are developing on your site, the dacha cabin will become your reliable assistant.

Variations in designs of cabins for summer cottages

In principle, as in any matter, with regard to the construction of a change house there are two ways. Buy a ready-made industrial version or go hand-made and build the building yourself. First, let's look at what types of summer cottages the industry offers us.

1. Panel room

The simplest, “budget” option. As a rule, disposable. The rather presentable appearance is deceptive, since due to the lack of special stiffening ribs, the building can become deformed and even collapse like a house of cards.

The fact is that panel technology involves the construction of a frame from thin wooden beams, and the outer cladding from clapboard. The interior is covered with chipboard, and the roof is covered with low-density iron sheets. As a rule, a panel shed cannot withstand gusts of wind and frost; it is better to use this option in the summer - for example, for cooking or as a utility unit.

2. Frame

This is a more reliable, but financially expensive option. Advantages - the use of deformation-resistant wooden beams, visual appeal. Disadvantages - using mineral wool for insulation dries out the air inside the house. Also, due to the dense layer of vapor barrier, the useful area of ​​the change house is reduced.

3. Brusovaya

Luxury offer. It differs from its relatives in its high price. But this is understandable, since massive logs are used for construction.

A log cabin is a capital structure designed for more than one year of operation. It makes sense to spend money on its construction once in order to solve several dacha problems at once for a long time. In addition to the inventory storage function, it’s so cute wooden house can serve as a bathhouse. Only in this case should you worry about all internal communications in advance (for example, about partitions, installing a stove or water heater).

4. Container

A completely acceptable type of country house that can organically fit into any design style of the site. The frame is made of metal channel, and the side walls are made of panels modern material with a sandwich name in English style. The advantages of the container model are reliability, durability, and the ability to retain heat inside.

>Dilemma: make it yourself or buy ready-made

Having decided that you definitely need a change house for your dacha, you will be faced with the problem of choice. What is the best thing to do - start construction yourself or save time and effort by purchasing already ready product? This is truly a dilemma.

Here, as they say, everything is in your hands. If you have construction experience, have the necessary skills, and love tinkering, definitely give it a try! If you don’t know the difference between a screwdriver and a jigsaw or you show up at the dacha once a week, then it’s better not to risk it. When you decide to purchase a finished building, do not forget about the price of transportation costs.

In addition, consider whether your site has access for trucks. And when buying a used cabin for your dacha, don’t forget to evaluate the degree of wear. Preliminarily study the pricing policy for new buildings, and based on this data, judge whether it is worth investing in the purchase. Maybe it makes sense to spend a little time and build a change house yourself?

Construction planning

Despite the fact that the change house is a secondary, utility room, you should not take construction lightly. You can't do this without a drawing. With its help, you can estimate how the building will fit into the landscape of the entire site, and also calculate how much materials are needed for the work.

Based on your specific needs, you can easily determine what size the structure needs to be built. Will it be just a small house without windows for storing country equipment, or a building with the prospect of retraining as a summer kitchen.

Or maybe you need a good-quality country house with a toilet and shower - a kind of complex that combines comfort and functionality?

How to choose the right place

When choosing a place to start construction, you should consider some nuances.

Firstly, the operating time and possible transportation to another location. Let me explain. For example, you decided to build a light house at your dacha for a season or two, and later you plan to transport it, for example, to the village to your parents. If you are planning to move, then locate the shed closer to the entrance to the site.

Secondly, consider your use cases. It is convenient to place a household building intended exclusively for storing tools approximately in the middle on the long side of the hacienda, so that it can be reached from any corner without obstacles. In the case where there is a prospect of remodeling a change house in a dacha into a bathhouse, feel free to “push” it into the background. In the farthest corner of the site, the cabin-dacha will be in its place in terms of fire safety.

Laying the foundation

The basis of any construction is laying the foundation. If your shed will be a temporary structure, remove upper layer fertile soil, compact the soil, lay geotextiles. Then add a layer of sand, compact it again and place cinder blocks on top in a symmetrical order, as shown in the photo.

If your structure claims to be capital and will be stationary, pay more attention to the foundation. It must be laid out of brick, 10 cm underground and at least 20 cm above its surface. In the center of the foundation, it is necessary to drive iron reinforcement at least a meter high, and insulate all columns bitumen mastic.

The frame of the summer cottage is secured to cinder blocks wrapped in roofing felt.

First, place wooden beams around the perimeter future construction and always in the center to strengthen the structure.

And then you need to connect the opposite sides, laying the logs on the cinder blocks.

For the frame of the cabin, beams measuring 1.5 x 1 m are suitable. From them you need to mount the floor and corner support posts.

To ensure that the logs are connected securely, it is necessary to use reinforcement contours. The beams are strung on them. For fixation, use iron corners and self-tapping screws.

The frame of a summer cottage needs to be built as carefully as possible. After all, the reliability and durability of the structure depends on this.

Vertical posts on the front and rear sides should be of different heights. About half a meter is the optimal difference. The roof should be sloping so that precipitation does not linger and damage the structure.

The rafters are laid at regular intervals. An indentation of 50-60 cm will be sufficient. It is imperative to monitor the strength of the fastenings on the roof beams.

Please note that wooden roof the cabin should protrude beyond the perimeter of the entire building. This will make it possible to make a canopy on the facade, and on the back side - a base for drainage.

Ondulin can be a reliable roof covering. Its installation is extremely simple - overlapping from bottom to top. Under the ondulin you need to put a lining of boards. You can choose thin beams, because this material does not weigh much.

When designing the roof, do not forget about insulation and vapor barrier. Very often the roof of a cabin is covered with slate sheets. This is a fairly reliable and very popular building material.

Finishing work

Once the roof is ready, windows and doors can be installed.

The boards must be treated with a special antiseptic that will protect the wood from pests and extend the life of the flooring. A film is laid over the boards, attaching it construction stapler.

Then a layer of waterproofing - mineral wool - is laid.

On top is another layer of film.

The boards for it must be clean and dry. Because the floor will be varnished or painted on top.

The external cladding of the cabin follows a similar principle. The walls are covered with film to insulate from the cold.

To make the country house look as presentable as possible, craftsmen advise using such practical material as a block house. This is a planed board in the form of segments of polished timber. It looks very nice, perfect for a major household space.

The final stage is internal Finishing work. You can’t do without electrical wiring here; you can install a water supply system inside and install a sewer system. Ventilation and heating – for those who want to add as much comfort as possible.

After completing the renovation, you will decide how you will use the change house in the future. Will it be just a utility warehouse or a cozy house.

Photo selection

Video - do-it-yourself frame change house

When starting construction of a facility, most companies first of all think about where to store inventory and accommodate people for comfortable temporary living. A change house is a real solution to these problems.

What is a change house and its purpose

A change house is a small-sized, inexpensive and comfortable structure that is easily transported or moved. It can be made from different types of building materials. The main purpose of the change house is to store equipment and accommodate construction crews in it. In addition, it can be equipped as a production or office temporary structure.

Metal cabins with one room are designed to accommodate construction crews and store various equipment

Types of modern cabins

Depending on the material used, there are the following types of cabins:

Depending on its purpose, the change house can be used for the device:

1. Wagon-house. This type of mobile structure is equipped with runners in winter, and wheels in summer. This car-house is intended for people working on a rotational basis or film crews. In addition, it can be used as an office, a room for drying work clothes or a recreation area.

   A movable car-house on wheels can be attached to a tractor and towed to the desired location

2. Warehouse. This design is made mainly from container blocks, which are equipped with strong bars on the windows and iron doors. The internal equipment of the storage shed is made of plastic panels or fireproof hardboard.

   Racks are placed inside the storage shed for convenient storage of goods.

3. Dining room. Inside the dining room, the required number of seats for eating is arranged. In addition, it has not only a dining area, but also a kitchen with various Appliances and even a plumbing system. Sometimes bathrooms, air conditioners and washbasins are installed in the dining room. Such metal constructions often converted into country cafes.

   The canteen can be used for catering at construction sites

4. Office. An office shed is a small container made of metal. It can be part of a multi-room building of the required dimensions. When such blocks are installed one on one, offices of several floors are formed, which in terms of convenience resemble concrete and brick buildings. Office cabins are equipped with everything necessary for comfortable work: electricity, heating, hoods, bathrooms and other equipment.

   Stationary office huts are installed on construction and retail sites, parking lots and other open areas

5. Premises for living. Residential cabins are made of metal or wood and are equipped with electricity, heating appliances and a bathroom. They are intended for long-term living, since they not only have durable windows and doorways, but also convenient and comfortable interior rooms. If necessary, a change house for living can be made of several separate modules.

   People can live in specially decorated cabins for a long time

6. Sanitary units. A change house used for medical purposes has locker rooms, bathrooms, showers and other premises. This structure is heated, has a water supply, as well as window and door openings. However, according to sanitary and hygienic standards, not all types of materials can be used in the sanitary unit. interior decoration. Usually the finishing is made from wooden lining or hardboard, which is impregnated with a special substance.

Preparation for construction

By technological processes building a shed is not very difficult, since there is no need for special training, the use of rare and expensive tools, or extensive knowledge in the field of construction. But you should not hope that all stages of construction of the cabin structure will go smoothly and without problems, especially for novice craftsmen.

Project drawings for standard frame cabins

The most convenient size is a change house measuring 3 x 6 meters, since it is universal in weight, area, as well as the availability of building materials of a suitable size and price. However, for each individual case, its own layout is designed, which is based on a standard frame layout with the addition of the necessary partitions and openings. If the structure is temporary or you need to divide the room into certain zones (kitchen, bathroom, warehouse, etc.), then the internal partitions must be indicated in the drawing.

The traditional configuration of a 3 x 6 meter cabin design implies the presence of the following premises: a central room 4.5 x 3 meters with amenities and heating, a corridor that prevents the entry of cold air, a bathroom and a storage room with dimensions of 1.5 x 1.5 meters. The roof is made from corrugated sheets, regardless of the model of the cabin.

Photo gallery: various layouts of cabins

Selection of material for the frame and foundation base

On the modern market you can find a huge amount of building materials for building a shed: panels, plastic, metal, wood slabs, and so on. Therefore, when choosing them, it is worth considering technical properties and design configuration.

The main part of the cabin is the frame. For its construction you can use:

1. A metal profile that is connected by welding. This profile is durable and resistant to various mechanical damage. Change houses with a metal frame are used for frequent moves.

   The welded metal frame has sufficient strength for repeated transportation of the cabin

2. Wooden beam. This is the cheapest option. This design always supports optimal temperature in any season. Wood is durable and quite reliable, but it is susceptible to destruction due to the appearance of bugs, as well as fungi and moisture. When using wooden parts in the construction of a shed, treat them with antiseptic substances, which will make the structure more durable and very reliable.

   The wooden frame of the cabin is usually insulated with one or two layers of mineral wool, which is protected by a waterproofing film

3. Steel corners. It is necessary to take into account that the corners must be coated with high-quality powder paints, since they increase the stability of the cabin and also protect it from rust.

   The metal parts of the cabin frame must be painted with powder enamel

It is better to make the foundation of the cabin from brick pillars, cinder block supports or concrete blocks. Under heavy metal frames, a cast concrete foundation is made.

For external cladding For cabins, it is better to choose galvanized steel sheets. They are quite durable and very convenient to use. You can also use wooden paneling.

Wood-based cabins cost much less wooden structures, but they can release various chemicals that have Negative influence on human health. You should not chase after cheap materials for construction and subsequent cladding, as you risk wasting your money. Picking up construction material to build a shed, proceed primarily from your individual preferences, standards of durability, practicality, ease of design and its reliability.

Material calculation and necessary tools

When calculating the cost of a 6x3 meter wooden cabin, you must take into account the cost of materials, as well as how much their delivery will cost. To erect a temporary structure of the above dimensions, you need to purchase the following materials:

• geotextiles - 30 m2;
• anchors - 9 pcs.;
• sand - from 3 to 6 cubes;
• expanded clay - up to 3 cubes;
• material for pillars or ready-made foundation blocks;
• insulation - 8 m 3 or plates - 81 m 2;
• beam 150x100 mm - 18 linear. m or 0.27 cubic meters;
• timber 100x100 mm - 47 linear m or 0.47 cubic meters;
• lining - 22 linear m;
• edged board 40x150 mm - 0.72 cubes;
• tongue and groove board 30x150 mm - 0.54 cubic meters;
• OSB - 63 m2;
• board 40x100 mm - 40 m or 0.16 cube;
• timber 50x100 mm - 95 meters or 0.47 cubic meters;
• sheathing beam 50x500 - 50 m or 0.125 cubic meters;
• polyethylene - 81 m2;
• waterproofing membrane - 81 m2;
• corrugated sheeting - 21 m2;
• metal corners for fastening;
• self-tapping screws for roofing - 180 pcs.;
• self-tapping screws 70 or 80 mm - as needed;
• nails 150 mm;
• windows, as well as internal and external doors - in accordance with the drawing.

Additional materials:

• various types of partitions;
• decorative finishing;
• technical and engineering systems.

The final calculation of building materials should be made only according to the drawing.

You will need the following tools for work:

Cabin layout

Today there are quite a lot of traditional layouts of cabins. They differ in the location of windows, the configuration of rooms and other characteristics. However, the main types of layouts are:

1. Construction of 2 rooms. One is workroom, the other is the hallway. There is a door opposite the hallway and one window.
2. Construction of 3 rooms. The peculiarity of such a change house is the separation of two hallway rooms. Each room has one window. Such cabins are called vests.
3. Change house from room and hallway. In this case, the hallway will more room. The length of the hallway is equal to the width of the entire structure.
4. The simplest option is a one-room change house with one window.
5. A cabin without windows.

There are other layouts of cabins. They differ in the area of ​​the premises, the location of windows and doors. However, traditionally such structures do not provide more than 3 rooms, since the total area of ​​the cabins is very limited.

Step-by-step instructions for making a change house

In order to build a change house, it is necessary to carry out the following types of work:

1. Site preparation. The shed must be placed on a horizontal surface. The soil must be hard, otherwise heavy excavation work cannot be avoided.

   To place the change house, it is necessary to prepare a flat area on which drainage bedding will be laid

2. Preliminary work for the foundation. Along the entire perimeter of the structure, 0.3 meters of soil is removed with a protrusion of 50 cm beyond its boundaries. The resulting trench is filled with a layer of sand (about 15–20 cm) and thoroughly compacted. To increase the service life of the cabin, sand is placed on geotextiles.

   To protect the foundation base from groundwater, it is covered with a layer of sand and thoroughly compacted

3. Foundation installation. We lay the pillars strictly along the construction cords to a depth of at least 30 cm. For a structure measuring 3x6 meters, you will need to purchase 15 pillars, which are placed in a certain order at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other.
4. Cutting wood according to the agreed drawing. Prepared wooden elements treated with hydrophobic substances or an antiseptic. Fire-resistant treatment of wooden parts will not protect your structure from open fire, but it may well prevent fire from accidentally thrown cigarette butts.

   The wooden beam is sawn according to specifications and treated with an antiseptic

5. Assembling the lower frame crown. Before installing the crown, a double layer of roofing material is laid on the pillars. The timber is installed with the wide side down according to the developed design drawing. Next, the beams must be leveled and carefully secured to the posts with anchors. The base of the cabin will consist of two transverse and three longitudinal pillars (150x100 mm).

   The lower frame frame is laid on the foundation pillars through a double layer of waterproofing

6. Laying floor joists. We take a 50x100 mm beam and install it edge down with a certain pitch on the longitudinal beams of the crown. At the same time, we insert the timber into the 30 mm slots located in the lower frame of the structure. The step between the lags should be 60 cm.

   Floor joists are laid in 60 cm increments

7. Underfloor arrangement. The gaps between the pillars can be filled, for example, with construction waste. The subfloor is covered with expanded clay. This action will insulate the change house and extend its service life.
8. Installation of corner vertical racks. They are made from 100x100 mm timber. It is necessary to align the racks strictly vertically and plumb to complete their complete installation.
   

   The vertical posts are plumb and temporarily secured with struts until they are connected by the upper frame

9. Installing the top trim. For the side and rear beams we use a 100x100 mm beam, which is installed at the level of the rear beams in the same plane. We install the front beam higher.

   The front side of the frame is made higher than the back side to ensure the required roof slope

10. Installation of additional vertical racks. For them we use thick timber 50x100 mm. Every door or window hole needs two racks. In addition, it is necessary to install the beams on the walls in one and a half meter increments.
11. Installation of rafters. According to the drawing, we install the rafters on the front and upper beam located at the back. We use a 100x40 mm board for work.
    

    The rafters are laid on the beams of the upper frame and form the frame of the future roof

12. Installation of sheathing. According to the drawing, we fasten the sheathing material to the rafters. This part of the work must be done before the wall sheathing is done and the floor is laid.

    The sheathing connects the structure of the rafter joists and serves as the basis for the roofing material

13. Rough floor. Most suitable option - tongue and groove board 150x30 mm, installation of which is done in a continuous flooring. The subfloor is installed along the lower end of the floor joists.

    Subfloor boards are nailed to the bottom of the floor joists

14. Floor insulation. We install a waterproofing membrane on the subfloor. We lay insulation between the joists on the membrane. You can use mineral wool or expanded polystyrene foam. We cover the joists and insulation with a durable polyethylene membrane.

    It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the insulation and the waterproofing film to remove moisture

15. Flooring and exterior finishing of the cabin. The floor is laid from edged boards 150x40 mm. We cover the frame of the structure on the outside with a vapor-proof film, then facing material- plywood panels, clapboard or edged board.

    The finishing material is pressed onto a layer of vapor-proof membrane

16. Installation of doors and windows. You can use both wooden and metal-plastic structures.
17. Installation of the necessary engineering systems and insulation of the frame from the inside. The insulation is placed in the spaces between the frame posts. The width of the material should be slightly larger than the dimensions seat under it so that the insulation fits into the cells with a slight interference fit. We do the same with the ceiling surface. We cover the ceiling and walls inside with clapboard or any sheet material.

    The insulation material is placed into the prepared frame with little effort and stays there without additional fastening

18. Installation of partitions. We fix the 50x50 mm beam to three bases: walls, ceiling, and floor. We cover the partitions with sheet material.
19. Decorative finishing works. You can cover the floor with linoleum, and paint the walls or treat them with some other material.

Video: do-it-yourself summer house

Interior decoration of the cabin

A mobile temporary structure performs a wide variety of functions. And this is achieved thanks to the interior decoration. It is this that makes the change house suitable for temporary or permanent residence of people. On this moment The following types of materials are mainly used for finishing the structure:

1. Laminated chipboard is an attractive material that has a dense laminated surface that is resistant to negative temperatures. In addition, laminated board has different colors, textures and textures. Change houses made from laminated chipboard are practical and quite durable, but more expensive.

   laminated chipboard is one of the the best materials for interior decoration of cabins

2. MDF - the material has a medium density. It differs from traditional fiberboard in durability, as well as high reliability. However, MDF is an expensive material and comes in a variety of colors and finishes. It is mainly used for finishing cabins for temporary housing or offices.
3. PVC is the most attractive material for cabins. Mainly used PVC in white color palette. The material is also highly resistant to humidity and water.
4. Lining - made from natural wood, so it is quite attractive and easy to use. The lining can have different front panel configurations and is used for both internal and external exterior finishing cabins

   Lining for interior decoration is most often used when it is necessary to build a change house with a beautiful and inexpensive interior

5. Fiberboard is the most affordable building material. It is easy to use, durable and very strong, but has a rather plain appearance. This material is suitable for office sheds and warehouses.

Photo gallery: interior design of cabins

Video: construction of a change house, part 2 - interior decoration

Construction cabins at the moment are the most inexpensive and comfortable type of temporary housing and accommodation for any necessary equipment. Thanks to their simple design, ease of movement and adaptability to all kinds of weather conditions, they can be used at any time of the year without restrictions.

Having acquired summer cottage plot, the first thing you should tackle is a do-it-yourself change house. Why a change house and why your own? Because the complete arrangement of a dacha will take more than one day or even more than one season, and no one can stand spending the night and hiding from the rain in a car for that long. A tent is also not an option: where to wash and cook food in bad weather? And with their own - because the prices for ready-made country cabins are by no means low and their durability often does not exceed 5-6 months. At the same time, in a small room for temporary short-term stay and household needs (which is a change house) there is nothing that a person with absolutely no construction experience could not do on his own. During the construction process, it is acquired, which will be useful when building a house, and other things that are necessary for a good rest in the country. AND A properly constructed shed will then serve for a long time, being very useful on the farm.

Change houses are sometimes called temporary buildings, meaning that they are removed when no longer needed. This idea was formed under the influence of people engaged in field work, especially builders. There, indeed, upon completion of the project, all temporary trailers are dismantled or taken away. The same builders were the first to think of building a change house in the country. During the Khrushchev dacha boom, they were also given land, and they quickly began to build something like their own locker rooms, warming rooms, foreman’s rooms, etc. At that time, building materials for ordinary citizens in wide sale there was no, and the construction was good country house could drag on for years with the full skill and ardent desire of the happy new owner of the site.

Since the change house was supposed to be used for a long time, people soon developed inexpensive designs that required a small amount of materials, but were comfortable and durable. It was a pity to break them later, and in the cabins they initially began to place a utility block in a dacha type 3 in 1: a bedroom-shelter, a storage room/warehouse, a toilet with a shower. In this form, the country house has survived to this day, only externally it has been improved, see Fig: building materials have become more accessible, and demands for aesthetics and quality of life are higher.

The meaning of a change house

The household pioneers of the past often still had to disassemble their creations due to the same shortage of materials, if there were not enough of them for the house. But the modern summer resident immediately builds his change house for a long time. The current country house is designed to perform the following functions:

• Residential, while the site is being developed. In the future, the shelter room will be converted into a bathhouse, a warehouse for finished products, a sparrowhawk rabbitry, a utility room for a greenhouse, etc.
• The utility room is like a shed for household property and gardening equipment.
• Sanitary and hygienic facilities such as a locker room, a bathroom, a storage room for work clothes and shoes, summer cuisine.
• Aesthetic – in order to remove all unsightly aspects country life out of sight.

The point of this approach, firstly, is that the very concepts of the purpose of the dacha have changed. The current summer resident definitely wants to have a recreation area on the site with a pergola, decorative pond or flower garden, rock garden, barbecue, etc., even if the summer house is commercial and the family lives on the income from it. Therefore, a change house with a utility block and a greenhouse/greenhouse are placed in the backyard, and a recreation area is set up in front of a beautiful country house, see fig. on right. The robe and shoe covers are left where they worked; to relax or receive guests, they walk along the paved path already clean, without carrying clods of earth from the beds.

Secondly, country house essentially a bedroom and living room. In the heat, you want to be cool in it, but to prevent the air conditioner (which can simply be stolen during the winter) from ruining the budget, an expensive and complex permanent structure with low heat loss and tightly closed windows/doors are required. But who wants to sit locked up in a dacha and make sure that the whole company doesn’t leave the door wide open behind them? What kind of vacation will this be? It’s easier to put blinds on the windows or hang awnings - and let the room be ventilated.

In this case, a kitchen, shower and toilet in the house will not add coziness and comfort. It will also be more pleasant for the housewife to cook in the fresh air, and not in the stuffy environment; suddenly there is bad weather, you need to do your cooking under the roof, without bothering anyone and so that you don’t crowd around and make noise. In addition, the installation of a toilet is a very complex problem. The point here is: the sanitation requirements for the distance from water sources and residential buildings also apply to neighbors, plus it is necessary to ensure the possibility of access to a sanitary facility. And if you cooperate with the same neighbors, then the septic tank common to 4 adjacent plots becomes “like a native” at the junction of their borders; pumping is required less often, and may not be needed at all for years. And there is no need to destroy the earth by laying pipes from the house to the septic tank, which is expensive.

Next, you need hot water for the shower and kitchen. Installing a boiler or stove with a water heater in a house is again inconvenient, building a house with a chimney according to the requirements of the fire safety regulations is again difficult and expensive, and a stove fits into a change house much easier, because This premises is not residential. Finally, we live in the 21st century - in the summer electricity for a refrigerator with an electric stove can provide solar battery, A hot water – a solar panel. Current prices for them are quite affordable, and some designs can be made with your own hands. But they will not add aesthetics to the house, but on the flat roof of the cabin they will stand “as they were there,” and will not be an eyesore to anyone.

Overall, everything suggests that country house you can and should build with your own hands in anticipation of long-term use, but without the prohibitive costs and without construction experience. Is it possible? Yes, this article is intended to help in such a case.

Build or install?

The first thing that comes to mind is: wouldn’t it be easier to put a storage unit from a shipping container on a simple gravel bed? There seems to be minimal work. No, not the minimum - you’ll be so busy over the openings alone that you could even build a house. Ready-made cabins from containers different classes It is on sale, see picture, but the prices are very high.

The reason is a lot of unnecessary metal for household use. No one will sell containerized cabins for less than what they cost as scrap metal, and there is a lot of iron in the container. However, we will still remember about metal cabins; in certain circumstances this may turn out to be a good option. But in most cases, especially for beginners, a wooden change house turns out to be simpler and more profitable, so we will mainly deal with them.

What to build?

First, let's decide on the sizes. The smallest shelter cabin, combined with a storage room, has inner dimensions approximately 2.5x3.5 m. A “2 in 1” change house, with a warehouse separated from the living room by a partition, and a nook for the kitchen, will already be 3x4.5 m; We will talk about this in more detail below.

In both cases, you also need a small bathroom nearby in the yard; one of its long-known designs is shown in Fig. on right. It uses peat toilet, or powder-closet. These days, a dry closet would be more hygienic. From those purchased for the dacha would be better suited a bio-toilet-bucket with replaceable absorbent cartridges, but you can make a bio-toilet yourself, see for example. video below. However, .

Video: dry toilet in a change house

It is possible to put together a “3 in 1” or even a “4 in 1”, including a bathhouse, in a cabin measuring from 3x6 m, and at the same time it can easily be placed on a plot of 6 acres. Problems are caused by the layout, how best to plan a 3x6 m change house, we’ll talk further.

What about the kitchen?

For a weekend summer cottage, there is no particular point in building a shed with a kitchen block: a summer kitchen fits perfectly under a canopy, see fig. on right. If they go to the dacha, or live there, from spring to autumn, then they need a 3-in-1 change house with space for a kitchen and a stove for heating. An alternative is an electrified cabin; then they cook on an electric stove, but at the start dacha arrangement This is a rare case.

Veranda: immediately or later?

Change house with a veranda on summer cottage beneficial in many respects, if only because it can be used to equip a wind-protected kitchen and/or store household equipment, freeing up living space in the shelter. But a beginner does not need to immediately plan the construction of a cabin with a veranda: it will not be possible to get a sufficiently reliable and durable building without construction experience. It is better for a novice builder to build a simple “box”, and then add a veranda, which has no power connections with the main structure. The problem of connecting the foundations of the cabin and the veranda in this case disappears, because both are columnar, not buried, on a common anti-heave cushion. We’ll talk about what this all means later, but for now, just in case, see Fig. drawing of a shelter cabin minimum size with an attached veranda. It is built according to frame technology, it’s time to get serious about her and others.

How to build?

Shields

The simplest way to build a cabin is a prefabricated one. The frames of the boards are assembled on the ground, then knocked into a box, on the left in Fig. A simple floor is laid in it, the walls are sheathed with anything: OSB, chipboard, plywood, etc. Then they install doors and windows (on the right in the figure), lay the roof - and you're done! For 1 season or less: a box of panels is not a frame, it does not contain individual load-bearing elements, and under load the structure becomes warped even before the cold weather, or even collapses. A panel change house can only be built as a changing room-shelter and only if it is known for sure that the construction of the house will be completed before the fall.

SIP

However, the way panel assembly prefabricated, fairly reliable and durable buildings, incl. residential buildings available for DIY construction exist. This is an assembly of SIP panels (structural insulated panel, SIP, Structural Insulated Panel). A SIP change house will cost more than the frame one described below, but its construction will give you the experience that may be needed if you decide to build a year-round cottage or Vacation home from SIP, the technology in both cases is the same. Enough has been written about construction from SIP in RuNet, but for more details about the panels themselves, see the video:

Video: review of SIP panels

Watch out for shields!

Many of the ready-made cabins available for sale are panel houses, with all that it implies. If you decide to purchase a ready-made change house, you can weed out suspicious ones based on the following criteria:

• Good-quality cabins of any design, as a rule, do not have linings on the outer wall cladding, pos. 1 in Fig. on the right, in contrast to the flimsy panel boards, pos. 2 and 3. These boards are stuffed onto the joints of the boards so that the product can withstand transportation.

• For the same purpose, the corners and openings of shoddy cabins are reinforced with temporary rough overlays, pos. 3. Good quality cabins can withstand transportation without strengthening the corners, and windows with glass are supplied in separate packaging. This trick doesn’t work with hackwork: when transported with empty openings, the booth is already warped so much that the windows won’t fit into place.

Frame as a basis

A strong rigid frame takes on operational loads. For such a simple structure as a change house, it also turns out to be inexpensive and little labor intensive. Frame cabins are built either “from the cage”, on the left in Fig. – the floor is laid in an already assembled frame – or a “cage” of power connections is assembled on solid foundation, right there. The latter requires somewhat more labor and materials, but less skill, so further we will dwell on this method in more detail.

Beam and log

Log and timber cabins look luxurious, see fig. on the right, but in cost and labor intensity they are not inferior to a house bigger size, and are built using the same technology. They are rarely built, mainly if in the future it is planned to convert the change house into a bathhouse; frame buildings are not suitable for this. In this case, the change house is immediately built on the site of the bathhouse and equipped with a drain according to all the rules, and the stove, shower, and bathhouse equipment are purchased and installed when the house is ready.

Metal+

If you know how to do plumbing and handle welding machine, then perhaps it will be easier for you to assemble a change house in a metal frame. In this case, firstly, there is no need for a foundation - the structure will simply stand securely on concrete blocks placed at the corners. Secondly, suddenly the change house is not needed, it can be sold without any problems at a profit.

The basis for a change house in a metal frame is the power circuit of the container, on the left in Fig. below, only for frames and corner posts for the sake of economy, 80x80x(3-4) mm corrugated pipes will be used. The upper and lower battens are made from a paired corner 60x60 mm or a brand of the appropriate size. The floor is laid as described below for a frame cabin, wooden frames are placed in the walls with openings for windows and doors and, possibly, with insulation, in the center in the figure; For frame designs, also see below. Usually, cabins of this type are sheathed on the outside with corrugated sheets, on the right in the figure, but this design allows you to make any type of cladding, a gable roof and give the building a complete wooden look while maintaining metallic strength.

We are building a frame shed

So, we came to the conclusion that our change house will be wooden frame. Step-by-step instruction construction of a frame change house 3x4.5 m has been wandering around the RuNet for a long time. Initially, it seems to have been compiled quite sensibly, but with repeated rewriting, errors and arbitrary abbreviations crept into the text. Following such instructions, a novice builder will find himself at a dead end during the work process or, acting according to his own understanding, will end up with a crooked and fragile structure. Unfortunately, the original text seems to be completely lost, so we will have to turn to the available sources, but with explanations and notes.

The first of them: it’s impossible to build a change house “in 2-3 days.” Working from dawn to dusk without smoking breaks and carefully, avoiding mistakes, construction will take half a vacation in a row or 1-1.5 months, if you work on weekends. The last option is preferable, because It’s better to spend your vacation on a house and landscaping. In general, the first dacha summer will be anything but boring.

About impregnation

During the work process, all wooden parts must be impregnated with biocides (antiseptics) and water repellents (water-repellent compounds) before being installed in place. For household use, used motor oil is suitable as both. It is also highly advisable to treat the crown, bottom trim, floor joists and subfloor boards, see below, with bitumen mastic (40% bitumen and 60% white spirit or solvent). They impregnate not blanks, but parts already cut to size, with all the recesses, grooves, etc.

Foundation and base

In fact, any foundation is laid according to the so-called. worn out, but in this case, because the building is small, the work can be simplified if the site for the cabin is not too “humpbacked”. The basis of the change house is built in the sequence according to Fig:

• Lay a columnar, non-buried foundation, pos. 1.
• A common support frame is assembled on it from timber 150x100 mm, the so-called. lower crown or, for frame structure, just a crown, pos. 2-4.
• The lower supporting frame of the frame, or lower frame, with floor joists, pos. 5.

The choice of foundation type is clear: for such a small and light structure, any other will be unnecessarily complex and expensive. About the design and laying of columnar foundations, here we will dwell on the features specifically for this type of construction, which a beginner needs to know.

The pit for the foundation is dug with a grip (removal) of 0.5 m along the perimeter beyond the contour of the building. Remove humus; if the thickness of the fertile layer exceeds 30 cm, dig with a shovel. Otherwise, pits are dug under the pillars with a bayonet, i.e. up to 30 cm deep. Next, the pit is covered with geotextiles (so that the backfill does not spread) and first a sand cushion of 10 cm is poured, on thick humus, or in the holes under the pillars. Having placed the pillars, the pillow is filled to the ground level; its purpose is, together with anchors (see below), to counteract the forces of frost heaving. The sand bedding is compacted twice, before installing the pillars and after it.

The installation step of the pillars is within 1.2-1.7 m, so that a whole number of spans between them are laid on the sides of the building; for cabins 3x4.5 and 3x6, the step is 1.5 m. When digging holes for pillars, you need to take into account that the contour of the foundation should protrude beyond the contour of the building by 10-20 cm. All operational loads “flow” into the lower corners of the frame; if it lies flush on the pillars from the outside, then it will be difficult for them to “spread” in the pillar, and the building may slide to the side.

In no case should you lay brick pillars, as recommended in the sources: the best working brick in the ground will begin to crumble in a maximum of 3-5 years, dry-molded facing bricks will begin to crumble in the first winter, and durable high-burnt clinker will cost more than special concrete foundation blocks 200x200x400 mm. There will be 4 blocks per post, laid crosswise in pairs on a cement-sand mortar; For more details, see about columnar foundations. Thus, the pillar will turn out to be a cube of 400x400x400 mm, of which 200 will be in the ground (30 cm bayonet minus 10 cm cushion), and 10 cm from the outside will be taken out. For a change house 3x4.5 m, the dimensions of the foundation along the contour will thus be 3.2x4.7 m, and the dimensions of the pit in plan will be from 4.2x5.7 m.

Now let's look again at pos. 1. See? The pillars of the middle row are narrow, each made of a couple of blocks. This is actually wrong even for places with mild winters; all pillars should be the same. Foundation blocks are not so expensive that you need to save on them in the most important part of the structure.

The posts are first placed on a dry surface and leveled horizontally using a hose gyro level; adjust the height by adding sand under the low pillars. The rectangle is drawn by measuring the diagonals and sides. You cannot rely only on the equality of the diagonals; instead of a rectangle, you may end up with an isosceles trapezoid! Having aligned the pillars, the upper pairs of blocks are removed and placed back on the mortar.

Next, prepare the base (short) beam of the crown, try it on in place and lay it perpendicular to the long axis of the building, pos. 2. Trying on it, cut the remaining bars 150x100 to size; the crown is assembled flat, i.e. The 150 mm side is oriented horizontally, pos. 3. All connections are half-tree. Don't forget about impregnation! After fitting, the beams are removed, the pillars are covered with 2 layers of roofing material (this is waterproofing against the so-called capillary soaking of wood), the beams are put back and, after checking the crown with diagonals and side measurements, the joints of the beams are sewn together with 80 mm nails, a pair diagonally in each joint, pos. 4. At this stage, the foundation is strengthened with anchors.

Anchors

Foundation anchors are the same “steel bars from 1 m” from the descriptions that seem to need to be walled up in pillars. In fact, it is easier and more reliable to fix a change house, the pressure from which the ground is like pellets to an elephant, with L-shaped crutch anchors driven into the ground, pos. And in Fig. to this paragraph. Crutches are made from corrugated 16-mm reinforcement. Their lower ends are sharpened so that they go into the ground easier and, most importantly, more evenly.

The anchors are hammered in from the inside, a 20x20 mm groove is made in the crown beam under each crutch bar: they are filed along the edges and removed with a chisel. Don’t overdo the cuts; there’s no point in loosening the crown too much! The anchors are driven in according to the diagram, pos. B and C for cabins 3x4.5 and 3x6, respectively, in 2 steps: first they do not finish off 10-15 mm, and then, after measuring again and trimming the crown, if necessary, they finish it tightly according to the same schemes; preferably with 1 hit with a sledgehammer. Additive in Fig. we will need more information about corner nails below.

The next stage is the application of the lower trim to the crown and installation of the floor joists, item 5 in Fig. with a base device. The harness is made in the same way as the crown, but from 100x100 mm timber. Assemble flush with the outer edge of the crown; Thus, a 50 mm step is formed inside, on which the logs will lie. After application, the frame of the harness is fastened along the insets with 80 mm nails, also like a crown, and sewn to the crown with 150 mm nails, as shown in Fig. with anchor layout diagrams.

The logs are made from 100x50 timber or 100x40 boards; they are cut into the framing timber by a quarter or a third, i.e. The mustache of the logs will be 25 or 30 mm high. The installation pitch of the logs is 400-700 mm. It is chosen so that the spans between the lags are the same width. If the finished floor is made of a simple edged board, it is better to stick closer to a smaller value, and if it is to be tongue-and-groove, then the lag pitch can be increased. In any case, it is advisable to take it in multiples of 150 mm, this will greatly simplify and save the flooring, see below. Each lag is nailed to the frame with 2 80 mm nails, one nail at a time, and in the center to the crown with a 150 mm nail, for a total of 3 nails per lag.

Underground

At the same stage, it is desirable, and for a change house “from spring to autumn” that is heated at least for a short time, it is necessary to insulate the subfloor, otherwise the floor will become damp. To do this, the openings between the foundation pillars are filled with something (ruble stone, broken brick, paving slabs), insert into pos. 5 in Fig. with a base, on a cement-sand mortar, and the subfloor is covered with expanded clay. Careless builders often simply lean scraps of corrugated sheets or broken slate on the outside, pressing them into the sand, and sprinkle the outside with soil. You can also foam it if you don’t mind the foam.

There are some subtleties here. Firstly, the purpose of filling the openings is only to keep the expanded clay from spreading, but you cannot cover them with sheet material from the inside: the subfloor must be ventilated, otherwise it will turn into a condensate collector. Therefore, in each span you need to leave either vents, a pair of about 4x6 cm per span (convenient if filled with rubble or broken bricks), or a gap at the top of 4-6 cm. If the spans foam, you need to insert pipe scraps under the vents in advance.

Secondly, the openings need to be filled from the inside so that the filling does not stick out. Then later, when you get the hang of it and the structure settles, you can make a real beautiful base.

Frame

The first to install the corner posts of the frame are made of 100x100 timber, reinforced with temporary struts (item 1 in the figure), on steel corners and self-tapping screws (5-8) x (60-70) mm, pos. 2. The screws are tightened tightly after the stand is plumb and supported with jibs. The height of the rear pillars is approximately 2.2-2.4 m; can be taken from the mini cabin drawing, see above. The front ones, with a building width of 3 m, are taken 0.5 m longer. If you calculate the dimensions of the racks yourself, keep in mind that the maximum slope of a slate or ondulin roof is 14 degrees, and the optimal one is 7-9 degrees.

Next, the longitudinal upper side beams of the box are applied (there is no need to talk about a solid upper frame in the form of a supporting frame in this case), attaching them from the bottom with corners, as below, and cut into half the tree cross beams. The crossbars are fastened with 80 mm nails, a pair diagonally in each insert. After this, install the intermediate posts and the corresponding upper cross members, pos. 3.

At this stage, construction can be somewhat simplified and cheaper. At pos. 3 you can see that the intermediate racks are also made of 100x100 timber, but for a small change house this is unnecessary; 100x50 beams or 100x40 boards, the same as for logs, will be used for the intermediate racks. They are placed across the strapping bars. To ensure that the structure does not lose strength, the following conditions must be met, see fig. on right:

1. The spans adjacent to the corners should all be the same width.
2. Corner spans and those adjacent to window/door openings must be reinforced with jibs made from the same board.
3. If the corner/adjacent span is 300mm or less, this situation should be avoided by placing doors/windows at a sufficient distance from the corners.

Now you need to replace the temporary jibs with permanent ones, from the same 100x40 board, and install the rafters, pos. 4. There, by the way, it is clear that the builders made a mistake: one of the corner spans is empty, although nothing prevents us from reinforcing it. Strut boards are also placed across the beams; fasten with 80 mm nails, a pair at each end. Next comes the installation of door jambs (you can immediately with the door leaf) and window frames, pos. 5. The installation of the box is completed by fastening the bottom chord to the crown using 150 mm nails with a pitch of 200-250 mm.

Rafters

How the rafters are cut in and installed is shown in Fig. The installation pitch of the rafters is approximately 0.5 m. Additional hangers are made from scraps of boards. In this design they are highly desirable, because It is not possible to firmly attach each rafter to the beams of the upper chord. The overhang of the rafters is approximately 30 cm; The side overhang of the sheathing under the roof will be the same. If the cabin is constantly in the wind (say, in the forest), then you can do without rafter hangers.

Possibly sad pitched roof will not suit you. In such a case, in Fig. Below are diagrams of roof trusses suitable for a country house and, of course, a change house. The designs outlined in green are good because they are simple, economical and allow you to reduce the height of the corner posts to 1.9 m while maintaining a sufficient height of the cabin ceiling.

Roof

After assembling the frame, the roof is covered so that rain does not wet the unfinished floor. Its sheathing under a slate roof is assembled at intervals (on the left in the figure), and under an ondulin roof it is continuous, because ondulin is a soft material. Working with it, of course, is easier than carrying heavy, fragile slate sheets, but slate roofing is much cheaper and more reliable.

How slate roofing sheets are laid and secured is clear from Fig. below, but when purchasing it you need to take into account some circumstances. First, most often there are 6, 7 and 8 wave slates on sale. 6-wave sheets are lighter, but the price per square meter of roofing made from them will be significantly higher than from 8-wave sheets. So, if you have little money and are not afraid of work, take the 8-wave.

Secondly, slate sheets are available in different pitches, wave heights and thicknesses. If you take a used one or anything random, it may turn out that the sheets do not fit together. Therefore, when purchasing, you need to pay attention to the markings; there is always a set of 1, 2, 3 and 4-digit numbers, for example. SHEET 40/150 – 1750 – 8 or 6-GOST 40/194/1750. 8 or 6 then will be the number of waves, 40 is the height of the wave, 194 or 150 is its step, and 1750 is the height of the sheet, this is its standard value. If there is a smaller 4-digit number, then this is the width of the sheet.

Floor

The floor of the change house consists of 2 floorings, the lower rough and the upper finishing, with heat, hydro and vapor barriers between them. Nothing can be simplified here, otherwise the room will turn out damp, uncomfortable and will soon rot. In addition, the crown with the strapping and plank flooring form a rigid box, without which the entire base will be fragile. So you need to approach the flooring with the utmost care and attention.

How the subfloor is constructed can be seen from Fig. The skull block is placed along the entire contour of the openings between the lags; “nail” with 70 mm nails in increments of 100-120 mm. It is needed to include the flooring boards in the power circuit. For the subfloor only use a 150x(30-40) mm tongue and groove board! You can still save on finishing flooring by making it from a simple edged board, but the “sub-floor” floor is laid only with tongue and groove! The sequence of flooring operations is as follows:

• Boards are placed along the openings between the joists.
• From the first board, in order of installation, the tongue groove is cut off.
• The next boards, up to and including the penultimate one, are placed by pushing the groove tightly onto the ridge of the previous one.
• The last board is cut to size along the width from the ridge side, i.e. cut off the comb with part of the face.
• They place it obliquely so that the groove fits onto the ridge of the previous one, and forcefully press it into place; You may have to tap it with a mallet.
• The boards of the finished flooring cell are nailed to the skull beam with 70 mm nails in increments of about 100 mm, and with a pair of nails in the middle of each to the middle beam of the crown. Nail distance from edges longitudinal boards– not less than its thickness, i.e. 40 mm. It is also advisable to maintain it for the cranial beam, driving the nails in obliquely.

When the rough flooring is ready, pos. 1 on next Fig., its cells are covered with glassine or its analogues, this is a vapor barrier. You cannot save money by insulating the bottom with polyethylene, because... it allows both vapor and moisture to pass through. Glassine is sewn to the joists with a construction stapler or nailed with small nails, placing pieces of plywood under their heads. In any case, you can’t sew/nail it to the flooring - what kind of insulation will it be, with holes at the bottom?

Now it’s time to insulate the floor. Let us remind you once again that it is also necessary in a summer shed to prevent it from getting damp. You won't store it in a heated room in winter, will you? Insulate mineral wool pos. 3, but you need to take mats from long-fiber mats suitable for residential buildings. Short-fiber mineral wool will constantly accumulate dust with microneedles, which are very harmful to health!

Next, the floor is covered solid, or with overlapping sheets of 15 cm, plastic film, pos. 4. Now the semi-permeability of polyethylene will be just right: the condensate that did get into the floor will evaporate through it, without having time to cause rotting, and the liquid spilled on the floor will also evaporate or drain before seeping into the insulation.

The last “floor” operation is finishing flooring. It is also advisable to make it from tongue and groove, but, as already said, a simple clean-edged board 150x40 mm will also work. “Clean” boards are laid across the joists, i.e. perpendicular to the “black” ones, pos. 5. The finishing flooring is carried out “solidly”, from edge to edge of the frame of the lower trim. Do the so-called. a floating floor, as in a residential building, is not allowed in a change house for reasons of structural strength.

In places where the flooring boards fit on the frame posts, grooves of 50x100 are chosen in the boards, and corners of 100x100 are chosen for the corner posts, so you cannot take a 100-mm board onto a clean floor; the corners of the flooring will come out hanging. “Clean” boards are nailed in the corners with pairs of 70 mm nails diagonally (into the edge of the board and in its corner), and at other intersections with beams and joists - in pairs of the same nails across the board.

Sheathing

The outer sheathing gives the final strength to the structure, so it is also made from boards, and siding, etc., whatever you want later, is sheathed on top of it. They are sheathed either with tongue and groove or a quarter board, so that the water flowing down the walls does not seep inside, i.e. up with the ridge of the tongue or the inner quarter, see fig. on right. If further exterior finishing is not expected, then it can be sheathed with an edged board in a herringbone pattern. They are sheathed from top to bottom, including the lower belts of the base. Before covering, glassine is stapled to the frame, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig. Now you can install windows; before installing the slot platbands in them and doorways foam, pos. 3.

As for the internal cladding, here - as God pleases: plywood 4-8 mm, OSB, chipboard, laminate, etc., with or without insulation, pos. 4 and 5. At the same stage, corrugations are laid in the walls with cables pulled into them, if the change house will be electrified.

Insulation, if necessary, is the same as for the floor. It is advisable to cover the corners with baseboards. In Khrushchev's times, they often did without any interior decoration at all, there simply were no materials. Now it’s easier with them, no matter who is nostalgic for those times.

Partitions

The frames of the partitions, if any, are assembled according to a pattern similar to the sidewalls of the frame, see Fig. on the right, only from slats 40x40 mm. The jibs are placed only in the outer cells. Internal doors Often it is necessary to place it close to the wall, then an additional rail is placed in the cell with the doorway (shown by the arrow), without it the door in the platband will not fit into place. The partition frames are put in place, nailed with 70 mm nails in increments of 200-250 mm directly to the walls, and sheathed with the same material as interior walls. The corners are reinforced with plinths along the entire contour.

For reference

The width of the entrance door leaf is 800-1100 mm, interior door width 750-850 for residential doors and 600-750 mm for utility, utility and bathroom doors. The maximum sash width of a single-leaf window is 900 mm; preferably 600-650 mm. A sash width of 400 mm is considered the minimum, but it can be made narrower. Door height – 1900-2100 mm; windows – 600-1300 mm. The height of the window sill above the floor is 750-850 mm.

More angles

Remember how we installed the corner posts of the frame: on steel corners. Perhaps you already noticed that the outer, most loaded corners of the frame from the point of view of construction mechanics are hanging, i.e. weakened. Therefore, it seems that the change house in Fig. is quite ready. in fact, it is not yet ready to take on everything that fate and the weather have in store for it, its outer corners need to be reinforced with overhead boards.

How this is done can be seen in Fig. left: the corners are sheathed in pairs of boards from top to bottom. Scheme for driving nails (150 mm): 1 at a time into the crown and bottom trim, then in a row with a step of 200-300 mm to the racks, then 1 at a time into the upper horizontal beams. First, boards are nailed along the short sides of the building flush with the edge of the corner, and then on the long sides to cover the ends of the adjacent ones.

About shutters

The fact that it is highly desirable to equip the windows of the cabin with shutters is obvious: the winter elements are capable of breaking the glass even without the participation of hooligans. But it is difficult to make swing shutters in a change house, and blinds are needed for them, because... In the hot summer, a room without a ventilation system will be stuffy. That's why best option shutter for the change house - folding, see fig. They shade windows like awnings, protect glass from damage better than swing windows, and are easier to make.

Carriages

Construction trailers come in lengths of 6-12 m and a width of 2.4 m. A cabin trailer 6 m long turned out to be very convenient for a dacha: a lot of things can fit in it, and it can be placed without problems even on 6 acres. It was only necessary to increase its width to 3 m, because... The walls of a frame cabin are thicker than in a standard trailer. Change houses of this type, see fig. They are always on sale and sell well.

However, with the development of the needs of summer residents, with often insufficient opportunities to build a comfortable house on the site, problems arose with the layout. Typical construction and traveling change house-vest, pos. 1 in Fig. below, this is only the bedroom and/or dressing room. For kitchens, dining rooms, bathrooms, offices, even bars and billiard rooms, other types of trailers of the same size have been and are being produced, but the summer resident has no place and no money to assemble an entire town on the site.

Attempts to use sanitary-ergonomic techniques and standards for residential premises in the layout of cabins lead to the fact that, in addition to the bedroom, there is only room left for a tiny vestibule, in which you cannot turn around in warm clothes, and a warehouse, in which there is nothing but a shovel and a rake. does not fit, or a toilet without a shower, where, while sitting, the door cannot be closed - it rests on your knees, for example, in the center in Fig.

Since the change house is essentially a mobile home, it would be quite justified to apply the techniques and standards of passenger transport to its layout. The only problem will be with the doors, or more precisely, with the direction of their opening, because... They are hinged, not sliding. But the doors, in general, are second after headache planners.

An example of a rational layout of a 6x3 m shed is shown on the right in Fig. higher:

• The bedroom is 1.7 x 2.7 m larger than a railway compartment. It will fit a bunk bed, a small dinner table and a chest of drawers. At night, you can also place a cot on the floor, for which, among other things, there is enough space in the warehouse.
• The bathroom has a corner shower 1.1 x 1.1 m, a bio-toilet and a corner half-tulip washbasin, similar to the ones on the railway. It’s not a luxury, but you can wash yourself and relieve yourself.
• The largest area is allocated for the kitchen block, combined with a vestibule, these are the 2 highlights of this principle. Fits a compact refrigerator, a country stove with hob 3-5 kW of thermal power (enough for heating in the off-season), and there is still room to change clothes; and in the warmth.
• The exit from the bathroom is also in warm room, which is important after a shower in cold weather.

With smaller cabins the situation is more complicated; here you have to combine a storage shelter with a kitchen. An example of the layout of this kind of “studio cabin” 3x4.5 m is shown in Fig. on right.

And then?

Guess what, the next person at the dacha, as they say, will start screaming: “Build me!” Perhaps when the house is not yet ready, and the bathhouse is only in dreams? That's right, a barn. Either a poultry house or a pigsty, which is almost the same in design.

The situation is peak. How to build it? Where can I get time if I already need more of it than there are hours in the day? And most importantly - from what? There is no extra money and is not expected.

Pallets made from pallets of building materials. There are probably some left over from the construction site, and it’s not expensive to buy used ones: dismantling pallets into irregular lumber with holes from nails is absolutely unprofitable, so used pallets are often sold off cheaply just to get rid of them.

DIY for home and garden - detailed step by step photo instructions for building a cabin with your own hands. Today we will look at how to make a utility room for your home and garden, where you can store various tools, watering hoses, household tools and much more. The project is not expensive and not at all complicated, therefore, if desired, absolutely anyone can do it using minimal amount tools and materials.

In this shed project, a foundation is not provided; the shed will be located on skids so that it can be moved to another location if necessary.

If you don’t plan to move it, you can put small ones under the runners. concrete blocks. For the manufacture of such blocks, I use ordinary galvanized buckets that have become unusable as formwork. But I will talk about this in one of the following articles.

We lay three pieces of timber. We make cuts according to the size of our future change house. We will use 100x100 mm timber.

On the outer beams, we lay a 40x50 mm beam. on the edge and attach it to the runners using steel corners.

We lay the logs on the runners and secure them. The logs will also use 40x50 mm timber.

We lay 20 mm thick OSB sheets on the floor joists in a checkerboard pattern.

Let's start building the back wall. In this project, its height is 190 cm. We use 40x50 mm timber as racks, and a 40x20 mm board as the upper and lower connecting element. In principle, the entire structure can be assembled from a 40x50 mm bar.

The next step is to assemble the side wall with the window. The height of the high part of the side wall is 250 cm.

Please note that the top wall board overlaps the back wall.

We assemble and install the front wall with the door.

Please note that the height of the front wall is 5 cm less than the high edge of the side wall. We will lay the rafters there.

We lay and secure the rafters.

And finally, we sew up the roof of the cabin with OSB sheets, and also lay the sheets in a checkerboard pattern. Then we lay the profiled sheet on the roof.

We sew up the walls, install a window and a door, and paint the entire structure in our favorite color. The do-it-yourself change house is ready. And finally, I would like to introduce to you good video for the construction of a cabin with a gable roof.