To live in beautiful interior country house or a city apartment is not only pleasant, but also comfortable. After all, the interior decoration of the rooms creates an appropriate mood in them and encourages relaxation. And one of important points design of residential premises is textiles on windows. Let's discuss everything about automatic window blinds in this article.
What it is?
New technologies are actively entering our lives. Today, if you wish, you can equip your home with high-tech equipment that will help make it as comfortable as possible, as well as aesthetically attractive.
Buyers who care about the comfort of their own lives should pay attention to such a modern invention as electric curtain rods. It is capable of autonomously controlling the level of lighting in the room. This way, even in your absence, the green plants in the house receive the optimal amount of light.
Take a look at the following photo to see how beautiful these highly functional automatic home window design inventions can be.
Similar curtains were created not so long ago. However, today it is gaining popularity at such a fast pace that it may soon replace conventional textiles. And this is not surprising, because a person always strives to make his life easier.
Smart technologies in action
After all, these are reliable, durable and easy-to-use automatic products with which you can transform your home and fill it with an atmosphere of warmth.
Automatic window curtains are part of innovative smart home systems, where the interior is equipped with special units, making it highly functional. The opening of the electric curtain occurs automatically and without human participation in this process.
Such roll models work due to the presence of high power in the design of the motor. And the speed of lifting the curtains will depend on the type of motor used. Advantages of automated curtains
Advantages
What are the advantages of such inventions for window openings?
In addition to the fact that automatic Roman blinds make a person’s life more convenient and easier, they also have a fairly large list of positive qualities, including:
- automatic control systems for curtains on the window allow you to attach textiles of any weight, size and structure. Although in fairness we note that more powerful engines are created in this regard ample opportunities. But when not very powerful engines Still, you should give preference to low-weight textiles;
- makes it possible to produce curved forms of cornices and interesting forms of textiles. So, Roman or rolled options are very popular today;
- can be mounted with your own hands on a window of any size and design. Even the most complex geometric shape of a window opening will not become an obstacle to this;
- Controlling this curtain is very simple. Even a child can master it;
- allow you to decorate windows with your own hands with curtains, curtains and tulle of all kinds in design, texture and style;
- They work completely silently, that is, closing and opening the curtains will not interfere with the family’s rest even at night. The curtains will be closed with light, smooth movements, which will completely charm you and your guests;
- often with correct use and regular maintenance, such products have very long term services.
Flaws
Are there any disadvantages or complications associated with automatic curtains? Please note that installation of such systems should be carried out after careful measurements of your window opening. After all, such innovative electric curtains are created directly to suit your conditions. And even a centimeter deviation can make hanging the curtain rod difficult.
Control
How is such an automatic product controlled? Automatic control curtains can be installed remotely. For this purpose, the product kit includes an infrared or radio remote control. You can also control such a product manually by pressing a button or a two-key switch.
Thanks to the presence of a special light sensor, Roman electric curtain rods can be programmed to cover window openings on particularly sunny days. Therefore, you will no longer need to do it manually.
Progress does not stand still and gadgets touch all areas of life. The ease of use of this or that interior item makes life more comfortable. This also includes automatic operation some types of curtains on the windows. The designs are no longer new, but for owners who want to install such systems for the first time, it is worth considering the issue comprehensively.
- Control methods
Types of automatic curtains
These are roller blinds, indoor roller shutters, Various types blinds. They are classified according to several criteria:
By mounting options
- Directly into the opening are internal roller shutters for the windows. There is a significant drawback - this option does not provide for opening a window or even a vent. Only ventilation mode is possible.
- Overlapping window opening. Maneuverability is becoming wider, but you still won’t be able to fully open the window.
- External options. These are shutters, roller blinds. They are made of metal or plastic. They protect windows from natural precipitation - rain, hail, snow. Significantly prevent the entry of uninvited guests.
By design
- Open. Regular type blinds with open edges. Installed inside the window openings of an apartment or house. The lower edge remains unsecured and has a device for manual control of the blade - a ring, a bracket, a cord.
- Cassette. External roller shutters that, when closed, “move out” from the grooves of the vertical guides. There is an option for mini-cassette curtains - they are installed on auditory or skylights small shape.
It is important to choose the type based on the owners’ goals. External options allow you to install the usual variations of paintings inside - multi-layered, structural, asymmetrical. Nothing will bother them. It is preferable to install internal blinds in new interior styles - minimalism, hi-tech, kitsch. If there is a desire for innovation, act boldly.
Installation of automatic curtains
The model of any version contains a shaft with a built-in electric drive mechanism that winds the blade onto its axis. The opening-closing system operates from a signal from the control panel and moves the canvas to the desired height of the opening. It is then returned to its original state. The design is simple and, if desired, home craftsmen could provide automatic roller blinds with their own hands.
Electric drive design and control
This is the heart of automation. It is a miniature engine with enough power to lift even heavy canvases. Powered by a regular 220V network. Or built-in batteries with a charger. Progressive models are distinguished by built-in functions that improve the comfort of using curtains on window openings. Namely:
- Lifting speed. Automatic curtain rods roll up the fabric from 10 to 25 cm per second. The heavier the fabric, the slower the twist. Actually, such a function is not required in a quiet existence. It is important to ensure instant ascent or descent during emergency situations - fire, burglary, penetration.
- Emergency stop. It is needed to stop the structure mechanism in the event of a fire or an obstacle in the window opening.
- Memory. It will fix the desired position of the canvas for a certain time of day.
- Closer function. That is, automatic roller blinds are adjusted independently if the opening of the window does not suit the owners.
The functions are also available for external roller blinds – metal-plastic shutters. They are controlled from outside or from inside the room.
Automatic roller blinds
Control methods
The designs have several options for action. For example:
- Using remote controls. They can be hand-held, wall-mounted, touch-sensitive, or with buttons. They provide opening and automatic closing of curtains and control of various functions.
- Progressive models integrate a radio receiver, a system powered by infrared emitters. They are installed mainly on windows so that the rays of the sun themselves control the cassette curtain models.
- The remote controls are single- or multi-channel, allowing you to raise automatic curtains on windows in several rooms at once.
- Manual control is associated with photocells - at the slightest natural darkness, automatic roller shutters for windows themselves determine the opening and closing width, respectively.
Functionality and, accordingly, popularity are achieved by remote controls with software, where the above pleasures are taken into account and new ones are added. Naturally, the average price for automatic curtains is 20,000 rubles for a device with a standard set of functions. Anything more comfortable is valued at a decent amount.
Benefits of operation
The fact that it is convenient to open and close curtains is not worth mentioning, although it breeds laziness in the owners. Other advantages of using the following:
- Can be installed on any window size. Wide, high, narrow, small or irregularly shaped openings can be draped well with similar options. Suitable for rooms with different purposes – roller blinds for the kitchen, for example.
- Automatic roller blinds have several opening modes, allowing you not to open all the windows at once, but step by step or one at a time. This gives you plenty of room to maneuver sunlight- V different time, the rays will illuminate the rooms as needed.
- Have a remote control remote control and accordingly the timer. Instead of a boring alarm clock, automatic opening of curtains can wake up apartment owners, gently letting in the rays of dawn. Automatic Roman blinds for panoramic windows are especially beautiful - rising slowly and softly, they open beautiful view outside the window, immediately creating a good mood.
- Without constant manual use, the fabric will remain in its original condition - new and sparkling. There is a drawback - it fades, so appropriate reliable options are selected - synthetics in this regard are better than natural fabric.
- In addition to the decorative and utilitarian function, they also have a protective function - automatic fire curtains will prevent oxygen from entering the room in large quantities with the risk of an explosion or reverse draft. In case of danger, the built-in alarm will close the windows, thereby protecting the glass.
And, of course, you can’t do without automatic curtains if the window openings are at a height higher than human height or are shutters on the outside of the second floor.
Automatic curtains are a very convenient invention
Disadvantages of automatic curtains
Any design, and especially automatic electric roller shutters, has its drawbacks. It is important to consider them, otherwise the comfort of use will be at risk. For example:
- The remote control is faulty. Since the control is tied to it, you will have to sit in the dark or in an aquarium until the technician arrives, unless the cause is an expired battery.
- Electronic relays for automatic curtains respond to humidity. If the room is somehow connected with a large amount of condensate, then breakdown or even combustion of all circuits cannot be ruled out. It is important to ensure the engine position and electronic filling in a dry place without access to water and steam.
- Difficult to understand. The desire to have more opportunities plays a cruel joke on us - it’s not easy to understand all the innovations, and the expenditure will be considerable and, it turns out, wasteful. This applies to apartments with elderly family members - it is not easy for them to understand the principle of operation of automatic curtains.
- Expensive repairs or complete replacement of equipment is an item that the owner decides on immediately. Many installation companies offer a guarantee for the product and work, but at the same time, it is possible to identify the cause of failure only in the appropriate center. Therefore, the owners will have to pay according to the agreement.
However, even the listed disadvantages of the automatic curtain functioning system do not stop future owners from purchasing it - it really is so convenient.
Where are automatic roller blinds used?
"Habitat" similar models wide You should carefully consider all the points to understand whether your apartment or house falls under the described types of rooms. So:
- Traditional design panoramic windows curtains with automatic mode. The benefit is significant - decorating large openings from ceiling to floor only with textiles is difficult and not always appropriate if the room is completely glazed. Automation will allow you to make the lighting inside as needed. It is important that such rooms are decorated with roller blinds in a single color scheme and dimensions.
- Progressive electric curtains for bedroom, nursery and even kitchen windows. It’s nice to wake up with such paintings. The living room is no exception - bold styles require a progressive solution, which, however, does not exclude the use of traditional curtains. It is important to note that in this case it is better to use automatic Roman blinds - they are cozy and homey.
- Attic rooms. It is difficult to arrange standard woven curtains there. You have to use special inclined holders so that the canvases do not sag perpendicular to the floor. Using the automatic roller blind option plastic windows, there will be no problem. Everything is fixed on the wall, and operation becomes comfortable.
- Soundproofing curtains will be required for the windows of domestic premises. In the laundry room or home boiler room. The units sometimes make completely unbearable sounds. At the same time, it is important to leave the installation of such options to professionals and adjust the possibility of installation with permissive safety rules. Some cabins, for example, with a gas boiler installed inside, require open windows, so automatic roller shutters are equipped with a built-in program and alarm.
WATCH VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS
So, the ease of use has been determined, and there is a desire to install progressive gadgets in the form of automatic curtains. Now it is important to determine the installer company - there are many of them and some have already proven themselves to be responsible and reliable performers of the work. It is worth focusing on real reviews owners of similar designs - they tell a lot about the company and the nuances of using the products.
Now you know what automatic curtain rods and automatic window blinds are.
The idea was born a long time ago and took a long time to mature. It all started with moving to another apartment, the windows of which face east. In winter it’s still okay, but in summer the brazen sun rises when I’ve just fallen asleep or haven’t even gone to bed yet. It shines brightly right into my eyes, telling me not to sleep through the summer. Of course, you’re right, it’s not a good idea to sleep in the summer, but somehow it’s still not possible to not sleep at all. Curtains have been invented to protect against the sun a long time ago, and I even have them. Quite dense. But not enough. A bright light penetrates them through, not direct rays, but still bright. And most importantly, you must remember to close them in the evening and open them during the day when you wake up. Some are making a smart home, others are crazy. Well, my house is lazy, it’s all about me. The owner should not bother himself with such hard work as moving the curtains twice a day. Let the curtains open smoothly some time before the alarm clock (or even instead of it). The sun should wake up my majesty, but not prevent him from sleeping, right?
Spoiler: 
I started thinking about how to automate this matter. The first thought is obvious, a cable, a motor and hang it all on the curtains. While I was thinking about how to implement it, fix it, how to attach end sensors, this and that, while I was trying to overcome laziness and do it, only three years passed. But he never did. And this is good. Because by that time another thought had dawned on me. Instead of moving curtains that don't move easily and don't block light enough, it's better to use blinds. Well, when I started googling about them, I found out about such a cool thing as roller blinds. Somehow I have never encountered them before.
Roller blinds are a cross between blinds and curtains. A piece of fabric that is rolled up at the top when not needed. They are hung on each window separately. On opening ones - directly on the sash, you can open the curtains in any position. Of course there are different colors, patterns and light transmittance. And, just what I need, there are “blackout” options, that is, they block the light almost completely. In the usual version, they are controlled by a hanging loop of a rope-chain. The width varies, but if necessary, you can cut it to fit. Prices also vary, somewhere from 600 rubles (~$10). Here, for example, in . If you need simple, no frills, then it’s quite acceptable, it seems to me. 
I bought it, hung it - great! All that remains is to automate. There are no problems with the motor, the curtain is quite light, nothing powerful is needed. I decided to remove the manual cord control. Without it, the motor shaft can be rigidly connected to the bobbin. This simplifies the design. The case, with a 3D printer, turns from a problem into a design issue. But electronics... There are many options for solving the problem. I’ll hide a detailed analysis of why I chose this under a spoiler.
Options, thoughts, compromises
First, we need to decide whether we want to control the curtains from a button, remote control, smartphone, etc. Or either way at once. And directly or integrate into any lazy home. If you integrate, then how to connect, wires, Wi-Fi, bluetooth, radio channel or some other perversion. Everyone has their own preferences here. I chose Wi-Fi as quite universal option. Creating wires is unnecessary. IR/radio remote controls make no sense, it’s better to have one ring to control them all, oh, that is, one smartphone for all home automation. Moreover, if desired, redirecting commands from anywhere to Wi-Fi is quite simple. I have an IR receiver in my computer, I turn off the lights and control the music with the TV remote. It will be necessary (and if I find another unoccupied button) - it will also control the curtains.
Well, since Wi-Fi, then of course ESP8266. Modules built on this microcontroller are inexpensive and are quite suitable for the task. I know about ESP32 (almost the same thing, but newer and also with bluetooth), but I haven’t used it yet.
And here a compromise is brewing that will have to be made. Carry the power supply with wires. Because if you turn the motor a couple of times a day, a battery, for example 18650, will last a long time. But feeding the ESP8266 continuously is not possible.
According to quick estimates, the engine consumes around 220 mA, we take an 18650 battery for 2500 mAh, we get 5 volts from it with a boost, 2500 * 3.6/5 * 80% = 1440 mAh, which means you can spin it for 1440/220 = ~ 6.5 hours. It takes about 2 minutes to raise or close (depending on the window height and speed). About 90-100 round trip cycles on one charge. 3 months would be enough. And if you use 2 batteries, and with increased capacity - more than six months. Acceptable. But in addition to the engine, there are electronics.
The ESP8266 has several power saving modes for such cases. But if we want (and we do want) that a command to open and close the curtains can be sent at any time, then Wi-Fi cannot be turned off, and without this we won’t be able to save much. My experiments came to nothing, at least. The average consumption remained somewhere around 5-10mA, which is clearly a lot for an autonomous power supply. Worse than that, my esp "shock periodically stopped saving energy, as soon as I pinged it 10 times. I don't know what kind of glitch it was, I didn't bother to figure it out. Well, even if I'm cranky, I can really squeeze out 2-3mA, it's still not an option. Changing the batteries once every a month (and this is still in a good case) is too much. Turning on Wi-Fi occasionally just to synchronize the schedule is not an option. You never know when you need to close the curtains, suddenly you want to watch a movie during the day, but the bright light of the sun interferes. So we pull the power with a wire. Power low-voltage, small currents, easy to install between the frame and the sash, behind the window plinth, on the side of the balcony, or in some other way to disguise it. But once you do it and forget it, you don’t have to change the batteries every time. You can switch to batteries if only scheduled work is enough + manual control wired button. I'll think about this option for the dacha. Or change Wi-Fi to BT, RF, IR or something else with two letters that doesn’t cost much. By the way, a quick Google says that there are also battery drives with a remote control on sale (even right here, from the sellers of these curtains) for those who need them. And I will farm as I please. With wires. It's possible to hide them. 
Another question arises, here we have 2-3 nearby (well, I specifically have 2) windows (I mean separate glasses. Fixed, opening or a balcony door, in one window opening) in a room, you need the same number of curtains, motors too, but how many “brains”? In general, of course, the ESP’s computing power is more than enough; we’re not planning rocket science here. But, on the other hand, then, in addition to power supply, you will need to lay wires to control the motors, for stepper motors this is 4 pins, if directly. The most common and cheap Chinese ESP headsets also have a limited number of pins. And if you stuff these scarves directly into the motors, one for each, then everything becomes simpler. So I decided that if a gun and shells cost a penny, then I could shoot sparrows with it. A simple, modular, easily repaired, compact solution outweighs the savings on matches. If the electronics of one drive breaks down, the second one will allow me to open the window and I won’t die from lack of lighting (yes, I’m still a vegetable).
Usually, when making lazy automation, you definitely need to think about backup control options, since it will definitely break down someday. And if it doesn’t break, the lights will be turned off. Or Wi-Fi will hang. I refused mechanical manual control; the chain at the window does not dangle. This means that if there are problems with power supply, we will not be able to do anything about the curtains. Okay, we'll survive somehow. You can power it from an uninterruptible power supply or make a 5 volt uninterruptible power supply. It’s another matter if everything works, but Wi-Fi has dropped. There is a free pin on the board where you can attach a button to manually launch the curtain. The drive is high, the button can be pulled down to hang on a cord. But I didn't do that. My router is powered by UPS, does not glitch, has uptime for a year or more, and only reboots when updating the firmware and replacing batteries. And in case of a fire in the house, as happened recently. The access cable channel was on fire, there was no light for a couple of hours, the uninterruptible power supply quickly gave up. But this is rare. In general, for some people the button may be convenient as another control channel.
Now let's move on to the details, in every sense.
Engine. Here the choice was obvious to me. Widespread . The price is 1.5-3 bucks, depending on the quantity, driver board configuration and the greed of the seller. Sold on every corner of the Chinese Internet. There are 5 and 12 volts, I used the most common, five-volt. It is a stepper motor (i.e. it can be rotated in small “steps” by desired angle or the required number of revolutions) combined with a gearbox. Due to this, with a very modest weight (~30 g) and dimensions (~3x3x2 cm), it develops quite good power, about 300 grams of force per centimeter. This is not much, but it is enough to wind the curtains. The gearbox also provides effective shaft braking in the absence of power. You can turn it by hand, but with a decent amount of effort, more than a worker. So the curtain will not unwind spontaneously when the power is turned off. And another plus is that it is very quiet. It is almost inaudible already a meter from the ear. When attached to a hard surface, vibrations during operation slightly increase the noise; it becomes slightly audible in a quiet room, but it is unlikely to wake anyone up. Me for sure. In general, as I understand it, they are often used to control the curtains of air conditioners. And she can move all night in swing mode (I don’t know how it is in Russian, in short, when she waves back and forth). The gearbox is plastic, but I don’t consider it a disadvantage, the load is small, wear is unlikely to affect the “curtain” mileage, but somehow it lives in a conduit? Someone actually made mini 3D printers using these mini 3D printers, and there was non-stop movement. The main thing is not to twist it by the shaft too often, this can easily kill it. It also has quite significant shaft play, both axial and radial. Quite significant. But again, in this application it does not matter at all and has no role. So, I think it has only one minus, again a consequence of the gearbox, the motor is slow. 15-25 RPM, i.e. one revolution in 3-4 seconds. Slower is possible, faster is not. But curtains are like that, no rush is required, on the contrary, you need to raise them slowly and majestically. So it fits. 
The motor can turn the curtains at a specified number of revolutions. But this is all relative, in Einsteinian terms. And we need, in Archimedean style, a fulcrum from which to count. If you have two such control points, above and below, then you can generally use a regular engine and turn it “all the way”. But it’s inconvenient to do this from below, but you can put a microphone on top. (I saw on the Internet an implementation without limit switches at all, the curtain was trained the first time it was turned on. But this is not my way, the position may be reset when the power is turned off, if you do not save it to flash memory every time, forcing it. The motor may, for some reason, skip steps. You never know.) The microswitch will be pressed by the fully raised curtain, and down we will unwind to the length specified during setup. In fact, it would probably be even better to use a reed switch and magnet at the bottom of the curtain. But I didn't think of that before. A comrade told me when they discussed this topic in smart curtains from Xiaomi. I left the mics, but nothing prevents you from using reed switches if desired. Mikriks cost a little over a buck per bunch. Search for micro limit switch, for example. You need the smallest ones, 13x6mm, preferably without a roller. Although the video can always be cut.
Mechanically, all that remains is the body and a couple of M3 screws to put it together. We'll draw the body and print it live. The body should ideally be made as compact as possible, for aesthetic reasons. And why waste extra plastic? This means we make the board first, then the body is already built on it.
Electronics.
That means with our hearts... although no, with our brains, we will have an ESP8266. This microcontroller requires external memory, an antenna, and other small things that are difficult to solder at home. So we take a ready-made scarf. A lot of them different options, from very small to almost Arduino-like. My choice is ESP-07. One of the most compact options, with a ceramic antenna. There is even a connector for an external antenna, but it is not needed within the apartment. The ESP-12 is a little larger due to the antenna “drawn” on the board. The price is 2 bucks, plus or minus as you negotiate. 
These brains cannot directly control the engine. They'll tear themselves up. I don’t remember exactly how much pin current is allowed on the ESP, it seems 12 mA, but it needs to be around 200-300. Transistors are needed for amplification. The easiest way is to take a chip with keys, ULN2003. It also contains all the diodes necessary to control an inductive load. Often boards with this microcircuit are sold complete with a motor. Only there it is in a DIP package, which is unnecessarily bulky. It’s good to have such scarves for prototyping with wires, and in ready product install ULN2003ADR in SO-16 housing. Even in retail Chip and Deep it costs only 19 rubles; on Ali it’s generally less than a dollar for a dozen.
The engine requires 5 volts, the brain needs 3.3. So we install a stabilizer chip. There is a huge choice here. I took the most popular one - AMS1117-3.3 in the SOT-223 package. The price is a dollar for a dozen, for $3 they will send a hundred at once. They are not suitable for powering ESPs from lithium, the voltage drop is about 1 volt, but powering them from 5V is just right. I use them often, for esp and STM32.
You also need 0805 resistors with a nominal value of 10KOhm, plus or minus. Three capacitors, also 0805, nominal 1 µF or more. Less is not advisable, it can be buggy. And pins for connecting everything so as not to solder tightly. The most common, single-row straight lines, pitch 2.54. Color to taste. 
Powered by 5 volt source. Current consumption is up to 0.4A per curtain. An honest 1 amp unit should be enough for two curtains. If you don’t raise them at the same time, then even 0.5A will probably be enough. But it's better not to take risks. If possible, it is better to overclock the power supply by 6 volts; this will compensate for the drop in the wires and keys of the motor driver. Especially for wide, heavy curtains.
For the initial firmware you will also need a USB-TTL adapter. Any. You can use any Arduino with a USB port as it. The adapter costs a penny, but you can ask someone for a while; further firmware updates, if necessary, can be done over the air.
Pay.
The circuit is simple, the connection is standard. I drew and then routed the board in DipTrace.
It turned out to be a little more difficult to install the board. I wanted to make it as compact as possible, but without giving up 0805 small things, as the most common and quite comfortable for soldering. And the tracks are 0.4mm, quite acceptable for making with LUT. The board is double-sided. It was possible to reduce the length by another millimeter or even two by removing the optional resistor R5 between DTR and GPIO0, but I thought about it a little late.
The boards can also be ordered in China. JLCPCB seems to still have a promotion with free shipping on your first order. Then 2 usd per ten (or even much more if you then file it by hand). With delivery it’s already worse, it’s over ten. But you can look for options, there are many of them. I have never ordered one myself; I make do with photoresist. 
Frame.
During the process, the body went through a long evolutionary path, starting with a simple bracket for the engine.
For some time I puzzled over how to secure the microphone and how to press it. I tried options for attaching a fork to it, between the teeth of which I passed the curtain, so that the weight at the bottom of the curtain pressed this fork when lifting. All this was unaesthetic and impractical. But nice solution in the end it was found. You just need to pull out the plastic weight bar a little so that it rests against the drive housing. Make the bottom wall of the case flexible and hide the microphone inside. 
The extended tip of the strip can be covered with a vertical U-shaped profile glued to window frame. Then the curtain will adhere to the glass even on tilting windows. For symmetry, the plank is cut in half and pulled out on both sides. 
The housing is designed to be attached to the base that comes with the curtains. There is quite a wide choice of mounting methods: on the window by the edge, with tape, with screws. It's stupid to refuse. For other curtains, the size of the fastening bar may differ; the model will have to be adjusted. But it’s not difficult, I drew in OpenSCAD, well, as I drew, everything is specified there in text. So it shouldn’t be difficult to fix, just change a few numbers. But right away it may be difficult to understand my shitty code. If anyone needs it, I’ll tell you where and how. 
We print. I prepare the task for the printer in Slic3r. I try to adjust it so that it prints only in perimeters, without filling. I set the number of upper and lower layers so that the lower (when printing) wall is completely filled. 
My settings are like this. Printing in a layer of 0.25 mm, the first layer is 0.3 mm, 3 perimeters (for the lid it is better to put more perimeters, 5-6), continuous layers: 4 upper, 4 lower. I printed with ABS (a little difficult to print, it’s better to print with a full-height protective perimeter) and PLA. But I settled on PETG, it’s easiest for them. It takes 17 grams to print the body, about 6 for the cover. Printing time is 45- 50 minutes and 15 minutes, respectively.
After printing, you can treat it with sandpaper and solvent to obtain a glossy surface, but I’m lazy, so I decided that [s]it will come off and not be visible from afar. 
We are also printing an adapter for the axle. It also needs to be adjusted to a specific curtain if it has a different mounting diameter. Mine have 15-16 mm. 
We solder.
I usually make boards with photoresist. For me it comes out a little longer than LUT, but a little better in quality and less defective.
The bad thing about making boards at home is that you will have to solder jumpers into the vias. On factory boards, the holes inside are covered with metal and this ensures contact between the sides of the board. Well, I make jumpers from a core of stranded wire. I put the board on the anvil, insert the core, bite it a millimeter above the board and hit it with a hammer. It is better to slightly lift the board before hitting it so that it unravels evenly from above and below. It turns out to be quite reliable, and if you then also tin it, it’s generally excellent. And nothing sticks out; you can make transitions right under the microcircuits. 
Solder the parts. Pay attention if you suddenly repeat it. Resistor R5 is 300 Ohm (designation 301), and not 10K (103) like the others. Don't get confused. It is generally optional; you can solder the jumper. Just in case, so as not to burn the DTR line when experimenting with the firmware. On the reverse side there is also an optional resistor R7 (pictured above), do not solder anything there at all, this is for experiments with deep sleep only. 
Some pins also serve as interlayer jumpers. So you need to solder them on both sides. First, we solder it from the bottom, then we lift the plastic skirt and carefully, using not too much solder, solder it from the top. Ideally, the skirt fits almost in place; there is a small indentation in it. I solder so-so, don’t pay attention. I'm generally a jack of all trades. 
Initial firmware.
If you already have the Arduino IDE installed, then the easiest way to flash it is from it. If you have not yet installed the package to support ESP8266, then you need to add it (Tools - Board - Boards manager, esp8266 by ESP8266 Community - Install, version 2.4.1, on this moment. In 2.3.0 I had glitches and slowdowns). Next we set the parameters. 
To avoid installing the Arduino IDE, you can use a free utility from Espressif, the developer of this chip. Download and launch. In the settings we set everything as in the screenshot, in the first line we just select our path to the downloaded bin firmware. In the address “0x0000” it’s an x, not a ha, if that’s the case. And, importantly, we choose right size memory. For ESP07 it is usually 8 Mbit (=1 MB). For other boards it may be 32 Mbit (=4 MB). Otherwise there will be an error during the firmware. 
In both cases, you need to select the correct COM port for your usb-ttl adapter. You can view it in the device manager in Windows. And Linux providers will figure it out themselves. You can set the port speed to any speed, but it’s better to start with 115200, to be on the safe side.
We connect as follows.
Board - USB-TTL
gnd - gnd
RX - TX
TX - RX
On the board we connect DTR and GND (the one that is later used for the limit switch, it is still free). This is necessary so that when power is supplied to the board, the esp8266 switches to firmware mode. Then, for regular work, DTR will need to be disabled, otherwise it will hang there, waiting for the firmware. 
Well, lastly, we supply 5 volts to the contacts in the corner of the board, gnd (minus) and VIN (plus). And don't get confused. Everything is ready, click start or upload. If everything works out the first time, we drop everything and run to buy lottery tickets. Otherwise, we check everything again, most often the problem is with the choice of com port or mixed up RX-TX (you can try swapping them). We check the soldering, pray to Cthulhu, try again.
After successful firmware, turn off the DTR and the adapter, only the power remains. Turn it off, turn it on again. The consumption should be about 80 mA, this is for control (in firmware or incorrect recording mode, the consumption is usually less). We give the board 5 seconds to start and look at the available Wi-Fi networks. A new, password-free network should appear.
We connect and go to the address. You should see something similar to the interface. We climb in and set it up.
In the settings you can select the Russian language if English is not suitable. I prefer English when it comes to technical things. But, I suspect, not everyone shares my tastes and, so as not to accuse me of hating my native language (although at school I really didn’t like it and got C grades), I decided to give the choice to the owner. 
I'm still updating the firmware, at the moment version 0.02 beta still doesn't support a lot of things. For example, you cannot set a static IP, only an automatic one via DHCP. First, you should come up with a network name and indicate your Wi-Fi network. It is advisable to specify an NTP server to obtain the exact time. After the reboot, find out from the router what IP it gave to our drive. If desired, secure it so that it does not change. From a mobile phone, in theory, you can use the browser using the name you specified in the settings. This may not work on a computer, for example, in Win7 there is no mDNS client by default. You can install Bonjoure from Apple, or maybe it’s already worth it if you’re an Apple fan. But this is a separate topic.
Further firmware updates are supported over the air. Both from the Arduino IDE directly (you need mDNS support in the system), and by directly uploading a bin file to the address http://IP/update (login-password admin:admin, so far it can only be changed in the firmware, then maybe I’ll add it to the settings) .
In general, I would like to say right away that the firmware is written in accordance with all security standards adopted in the IoT (Internet of Things). Those. anyhow. However, if someone connected to this device, then the password for your wireless network he already knows, and the only way he can do any harm is by moving the curtains back and forth. However, at a minimum, you should not give your router access to curtains from the global network directly. In the future, I might add password access, although I don’t see the point in that for now.
Regarding writing the firmware, it would be dishonest not to express gratitude to the comrade and his cat for their esp8266, which helped to understand this chip. And for it for SonoffLED, from whose sources I learned a lot. So, Alexey, thank you!
So, we launched it, the network was configured, we can put it together. Solder the wires to the mic and crimp the connector. Or we take two wires with a connector and solder them. Soldering must be done to the outer terminals, which are normally closed. If the limit switch suddenly falls off the board, it will be equivalent to a constantly pressed state, and there is less chance of killing the engine. 
We screw the motor to the body. We insert the microphone. For reliability, it is better to secure it with a drop of hot-melt glue on the contact side. We connect it to the board and tamp it inside. I didn’t shorten the wires from the motor; of course, I was too lazy. I just rolled it up and stuffed it inside. He justified this by saying that it would be easier to change if suddenly necessary. The board fits snugly if sawn off correctly. Sharpen if necessary. No need to attach, it fits securely. The power wires can be pushed into the gap above the mount, then they will not be visible. Snap the lid. Does not work. We seal the wires and try again. I managed. Three times. Serving option: 
The power supply from Ali, used from some equipment, is quite decent, as far as I can judge with my education (I completed advanced training courses in reviews from kirich). It is stated that 10 watts per 5 volts, we don’t have that much power necessary, so with a large margin. I just raised the output voltage a little, by half a volt somewhere, by changing the resistor. If necessary, we change the output capacitors to a higher voltage. The power supply will be installed on a glass balcony, almost under the ceiling, but I still pushed it in an IP55 junction box, with the Schneider brand. I like them. Connecting wires on fakes for wago, but the currents are small, I generally have a C6 machine on the balcony line, if that (I don’t want to provoke wago-assass in the comments). 
We route the power wires along inside doors We make a loop in the place where it turns so that it does not bend too much. And connect it to the power supply. 
Time to tune the motor. For a stepper motor, it is important in what sequence to turn on the windings. If the connection is incorrect, it will spin in the opposite direction or generally twitch like an exhausted epileptic. It seems that when I made the board and wrote the software, I laid down a direct order. But, apparently, I messed up somewhere, as always. As a result, in the settings I made a choice of any connection option, so as not to worry about it in the future. Suddenly the Chinese change the pinout on the engine connector. “A-B-D-C” works for me. We try different ones, click the Test button. We choose the forward or reverse direction, so that the “up test” winds up the curtain. You can experiment with speed. The default is 1500, which is microseconds per step. The lower the number, the higher the speed. It works for me somewhere up to 900, at 800 it stops turning. It's better to leave a reserve. You can slow it down even more, perhaps slightly reduce the noise from vibration if resonance appears somewhere at a certain speed.
After adjusting the motor, you need to adjust the length of the curtain. Raise it all the way up until the sensor responds, then lower it down to the desired length. You can use the test button, or you can set the curtain length value, gradually increasing it. Having learned desired length, save.
Ready! You can open and close windows through a browser from any device. It works quietly, smoothly, unhurriedly (the eye doesn’t even catch such a movement right away, that is, you don’t jump from an unexpected sudden movement). I have in balcony door glass in full height, the curtain does not reach the bottom about a foot, but there is not much light there, the balcony screens out. You can add curtains, but I don’t need them. So the full length of 1.70m passes in 2.5 minutes at a speed of 1500 settings. 
I haven’t done web layout for a long time, a lot has changed since then, for example, it turned out that they no longer do layout with tables. And we still need to do something to make it look decent on mobile devices. It turned out so-so, but you can live. 
Integration with something smart.
But here it will be brief.It is already possible to control over the network with a simple HTTP request.
http://ip-address/open
http://ip-address/close
There is also a service link, it is convenient to use with ajax
http://ip-address/test?up=1&reversed=0&pinout=2&delay=1500&steps=300
All parameters are optional; upon completion of the operation, it returns the current position of the curtain.
Where to enter these http links depends on what system smart home you use it. I have my own, based on what I did at work for more serious things. But I am sure that you can screw it to anything without much effort. You can find examples on the Internet.
The MQTT protocol can be screwed on. I'll probably add it in future firmware versions.
That's what I don't know yet how best to solve - synchronization with an alarm clock. I didn’t find how to do this in AndroidAPI. So that I set the alarm for 14:00 in the morning, and the curtains received a command to open at 13:50. You can use an alternative alarm clock as an option.
If anyone was interested in this part the most, I apologize. But the topic is too broad. There is Tasker for Android with voice control, and Siri, and Domotics with Broadlinks and Mi-devices. All this can be applied, but cannot be described in one review. I already spent more bytes of text than in recent years three.
Another version.
Well, does anyone have a desire to repeat something similar? If you want to repeat it, but there is nothing to print the case on, you don’t want to etch the board, a soldering iron was borrowed by a cryptanalyst friend, that is, I have a recipe for you from cubes.We are looking in China for any debugging board based on esp8266, so that it has soldered pins and a USB connector. There are all sorts of WeMos, NodeMCU and the like, to your taste and cheaper. It's not much more expensive than the bare esp07, in fact. Next we connect this to the driver board, which comes complete with the motor (sometimes it doesn’t come, look for the right lots). We flash it via USB cable, just as written earlier. Only the flash button is on the board or it will even work on its own. All is ready. Just 5 minutes, really. Here's how to then attach the motor specifically to your curtain - this is no longer my problem :) 
Connection is simple. We connect 4 inputs on the driver board (IN1-IN4) to pins D1, D2, D6, D7 (they can be labeled like esp, GPIO4, GPIO5, GPIO12, GPIO13). We connect strictly at random. Then we’ll set it in the settings as needed. The plus and minus of the driver connect to VIN (maybe designated as 5V) and gnd, respectively. Here, if you get it wrong, it can’t be corrected in the software. All.
Plans.
First, update the firmware. This process is eternal, so I didn’t delay the review any further. There are plans to add MQTT, static IP, and autonomous work on a schedule. Something else, I don’t remember anymore. Then there are thoughts for making a summer house autonomous power supply, you can stupidly work there according to the sunrise-sunset schedule. Or by photo sensor. There is also an idea to adapt the development for a projector screen. A more powerful motor will be needed.
But I'm already pleased with the result. I hope it will be useful to someone else. I probably forgot to write about a lot of things. So I’ll try to answer in the comments.
Boring video. I filmed on a mobile phone, the sharpness kept slipping away, but I can’t do better :(
UPDATE. Since publication, the firmware has been significantly improved. Sources and binaries are still available on GitHube. A separate one is gradually being added. Anyone who really wants to can buy ready-made blocks from me. Add to favorites Liked +240 +439
The desire to furnish a house with your own hands is not always associated with the need to save money on the work of a specialist or finished products. Craftsmen are driven by the desire to surpass professionals. And they often succeed, even in such difficult cases as self-production electric drive for roller blinds. new test key
Why do you need an electric drive?
Installation of automatic blinds is recommended in large buildings, residential or non-residential buildings. This is necessary so as not to waste time adjusting the entire system. By programming the device, you can control all windows. In this case, each individual window is adjusted independently of the others.
Automatic models have another undeniable advantage. The wear and tear of the structure occurs much slower, since the same force is always expended during adjustment. Electric roller blinds can cost significantly more. In addition, it is necessary to pay for the work of a specialist who will install them if the buyer cannot do it himself.
Kinds
There are 2 ways to control automatic roller blinds:
- Remote. The curtains are controlled using a specially programmed remote control. You can set a timer on the device, which will allow the remote control to issue commands at a certain time. This system works on the same principle as an alarm clock;
- Stationary. To activate such a mechanism, you need to press a button that is mounted next to the window.
The most expensive models of blinds are equipped with photocells. They react sensitively to natural or artificial light, rising and falling at the right moment. There is a misconception that automatic curtains create too much noise when operating. In fact, the presence of noise can only indicate poor quality of installation. If the structure is installed correctly, the movement of the curtains will not bother you.
There are other classifications for motorized blinds, for example, according to the installation location:
- Ventilation. They are installed in the ventilation system. Such curtains are often used on industrial enterprises to protect the premises from extraneous noise or unpleasant odors;
- For generators. Necessary to protect the generator from dirt and dust. Despite its name, this type of curtain is actively used in everyday life. There are built-in and overhead models. This design is necessary where particularly high demands are placed on safety;
- External. The main function is to protect premises from penetration unauthorized persons, that is, hacking. In addition, the model protects from low temperatures and direct sunlight.
When making blinds at home, you can focus on the types of electrically driven roller blinds given above. However, we should not forget that for outdoor use it is advisable to purchase ready-made designs. Our own roller blinds are suitable for indoor use only.
Do you need to be a professional?
Construct automatic system Not only a specialist with the appropriate education can do it with his own hands. The assembly and installation technique is much simpler than it seems. Master classes presented on thematic resources and books on construction topics indicate step by step actions. However, certain skills are still necessary. If you have never had to do renovation work, you should contact a specialist. This will avoid unpleasant consequences associated with improper installation and unjustified costs.
Curtain material
In most cases, high-density fabric is chosen for making blinds. However, other materials can also be used.
If the interior of the room allows, non-working floppy disks or CDs will be used to make curtains. This idea is suitable for a teenager’s room, where excessive severity would look inappropriate. In an interior that suggests informality, you can use calendar cards or postcards. Even strips of leather may work.
First stage of work
If the decision to create a structure with your own hands has already been made, first of all, you need to decide on the size of future curtains. To do this, measure the window frame, since the length of the future product must match its parameters. Curtains may have big sizes. But the difference usually does not exceed 12 cm. The width of the blinds must match the width of the frame. About 2 cm should be left for attacks.
When cutting the material, you need to prepare 2 patterns, since one of them will become the wrong side, and the other front side. The patterns are folded right sides inward and sewn together. The resulting workpiece is turned inside out. The remaining hole in the bag must be sewn up. If desired, you can choose different materials for each of the parties. But according to experts, both blanks should be made of the same material. 
There is no need to make curtains yourself. You can upgrade ready-made ones that include a plastic rod in the mechanism.
Second stage of work
At the next stage, the blinds need to be attached to a wooden beam. The width of the curtains should be 1 cm greater than the length of the beam. Curtain material should be laid out with the wrong side up. At the top of the workpiece you need to make an indent of at least 5 cm. After which the pre-prepared timber is laid. The material is tightly attached to it. You can use a stapler to secure it. The rail should pull the curtain. To make this possible, you need to make a small pocket. The material must be wrapped 3 cm. A beam is threaded into the resulting pocket.
Third stage of work
An electric drive can be bought in a store. However, some prefer to create it themselves. To assemble it yourself, you will need a bit extension and an electric screwdriver. The last element is powered by three batteries. First you need to disconnect the battery compartment. The power cables need extension. They are increased by 2 or 2.5 m. The gearbox and electric motor should be modified. The need for this arises due to the fact that the electric drive will be installed in a limited space. The essence of the modification is to reduce the body size.
The fourth stage of work
The drive is connected to the blinds. The bit fixation extension is provided in a special gland. It is necessary to remove the standard plug. The first element is installed at the end of the winding body. You need to make sure that the seal at the end is secured tightly enough.
A special bracket must be attached to the frame, on which the device will be secured. For initial fixation of the electric drive to the blinds, ties are required. Subsequently, the elements used for fastening must be replaced with brackets. Installation is carried out in a horizontal position after the engine is mounted in its place. There is a reversing switch on the power supply. With its help, the operation of the entire finished structure is controlled.
The electric drive can be presented in the form of a motor with a gearbox. To select the right model, you should take into account the shaft rotation force and speed. You need to purchase a unit with a power of at least 12 W. The shaft rotation speed, according to experts, should exceed 15 revolutions per minute.
Next, the engine is installed in the plastic box. Then you need to run the cable. The next step is to press the buttons, which completes the process of making electric curtains. The finished design can be supplemented with the help of automation and stationary power supply. Models that include such elements can move right/left if it is a vertical model, or up/down if it is a horizontal model.
- Professionals advise purchasing an Arduino module. Experts highly value this device. With its help, not only blinds can be controlled, but also gates, heaters and some other devices and devices. You can regulate the operation of the device using the module after a special program has been written for it. This is especially necessary in cases where the system will be installed on 2 or more windows. By lightly pressing the buttons, you can set the required closing or opening speed, raise the curtains completely or partially, and also carry out other necessary manipulations. Arduino module allows programming additional functions, among which the security mode should be noted. This function is necessary in order to promptly notify that certain malfunctions have occurred in the operation of the module;
- Give yourself the opportunity to control the design of the blinds manually. No matter how high-quality the electric drive mechanism is, sooner or later a malfunction may occur. Failures are possible in which a new drive will have to be installed. Manual control allows, in case of imbalance, to synchronize the operation of the structure. The absence of dependence on the electric drive allows you to use the curtains while the motor is disconnected for replacement or repair;
- Protect the mechanical part of the structure from dust and moisture that may enter the room through the window. In the kitchen, the electric drive is exposed to the adverse effects of soot and steam that are released during cooking. The mechanism will fail sooner or later. However, the period of its operation can be significantly extended;
- curtains yourself
- Since the electric drive will require repair in any case, do not glue together the plastic boxes that contain the moving elements. To fasten them together, use staples. They can be removed if necessary.
Offer curtains yourself for the test
Electric roller blinds are another step towards coziness and comfort in your home. By taking care of their installation, you get the opportunity not to waste time adjusting the mechanism. In order to make and install curtains yourself, it is not necessary to have a technical education; a new key for the test. Just be careful and be patient.
One day, after a hard day at work, I came home and realized that I wanted to relax, and not walk around and close the curtains. I would like to see them closed in the evening and open in the morning, without dancing in front of the window. After googling various solutions, it was decided to do everything myself.
By popular demand, I am posting all my work on converting regular roller blinds into automated ones with remote control. Be careful, there are a lot of photos!
First, about roller blinds:
- Pros: roller blinds visually expand the space, are beautiful and inexpensive. Very easy installation. Each window can be controlled separately. Frees up space on the windowsill.
- Difficulties: manually opening 5 windows already takes a long time. Open completely corner window the mechanism itself interferes (example: the mechanism at the top of the balcony door rests against the wall and does not allow the passage to open completely). Because of this, it is necessary to hang curtains from the outside of the window. The price of even Chinese motorized curtains starts at 2,000 rubles, multiply by 5 and immediately think about how to do everything with improvised means.
A little about the tasks:
Must be added to regular roller blinds from hardware store remote control and connect to smart home on the openSource Home Assistant platform. And you still need to maintain the usual control of the string.
Choice of motors:
If everything is automated, then speed does not matter, so motors with gearboxes can be used. Brushed motors are cheap, but not the most reliable thing for daily use. Servos also have brushed motors and plus are not stable with constant rotation. Great option stepper motors look like. They are silent, you can control the position, they cost pennies. As a result, a set of 5 28BYJ-48 engines with a ULN2003 driver cost me $10
About the 28BYJ-48 engine:
There were questions about the power of this engine. Fears that he would be weak were not justified. Or rather, if you use a full-step mode, then the motor is very frail, if you use a half-step mode, then you can’t stop the shaft with your bare hands. For those who don’t have enough power, there are many articles on the Internet on how to raise the voltage, turn it into bipolar and other improvements.
About sensors:
Since we still have manual control, and we don’t want to waste the engine, we need curtain position sensors. At a minimum, one sensor is required at one end, but two are better. You can use any end switch, optical one, etc., but I personally chose the reed switch because... gluing a neodymium magnet on the other side is very simple and should work stably and durable. I chose the reed switches themselves for aesthetics already in the housing. Plus, it provided for setting the distance from the shaft. The height can be adjusted with spacers.
About the mounting design:
The task was to design the case as simple as possible for manufacturing on a 3D printer with minimal modifications. Modeled in Fusion 360. The complete mount clings to the top of the window, but such a design on an FDM printer would be difficult to make with the required strength requirements, so a design with one screw for adjustment was invented.
In total, we got three parts for 3D printing. Link to download 3D models.
Main part for the motor, control board on ULM2003, mounting of reed switches, motors, line for stabilizing curtains, and adjusting screw.
A lid to cover all this mess. A clamp or in other words a hook.
The design of the curtains itself contains several springs, which work as a brake if you pull the curtains (the spring is tightened) or release it if you twist the rope.
When assembling, you need to make one modification: use wire cutters to break the rim that covers the rope, because... Now we have our own fixed rim that prevents the rope from falling out.
Control:
Manage stepper motor there will be a NodeMCU on ESP8266. It was chosen because it is cheap, has a backup Wi-Fi channel, and is quite easy to write the necessary scripts on. If you need more than two curtains or additional sensors, then the microcontroller legs are no longer enough, you can look towards the ESP32. (esp32 is not shown in the photo, because it is in the junction box)
Software part:
The development environment can be any. ESP32 can be programmed via Arduino IDE. But I chose Visual Studio Code for myself because of its speed, modularity and freeness. In this environment, you can develop for almost any platform (not just hardware). You can even connect IAR ARM. (But that's a completely different topic)
The program's task is simple:
Connect via Wi-fi
Connect to MQTT broker
Subscribe to topic
Control the speed of two motors
Monitor the condition of the limit sensors
Send current steps to the broker
Sources can be taken
