In a private house      04/18/2019

Pros and cons of foam concrete houses - reviews of real owners. How to calculate the cost of building a house from foam blocks with your own hands. Calculation of materials. Building foundations and walls

How to build a house from foam blocks with your own hands. Stages of work. Features of the construction of the foundation, walls and roof. Advantages and disadvantages of the foam block. Mounting technology.

Having decided to build a house from foam blocks with your own hands, you need to know the features of the construction of the structure. How to lay the foundation correctly. The correct laying of the walls. How to make a reliable ceiling How to create a roof from foam blocks. Reliable installation slate cover.

Characteristics of the foam block. Stages of work performed. Advantages and disadvantages of building a house from a foam block. Features of interior and exterior decoration of the house. Technology of installation of foam blocks. Interfloor ceiling in aerated concrete house. Decorative wall decoration and insulation.

The foam block house is perfect solution for every builder. Such a structure differs among buildings made of other materials by its relatively low cost, minimum construction time, resistance to decay processes, and also to fire. Block walls are warm and durable. In this article we will tell you how to make a house of foam blocks with your own hands.

First of all, a foundation is created that can withstand a foam block house:

  1. We make calculations of the width and depth of the formwork system. The width is equal to the cross section of the structure under construction, and the lower point depends on the climatic conditions of the area and the degree of soil freezing. The depth of the foundation must be at least 500 mm.
  2. Further, a trench is dug, the depth of which is about two meters.
  3. Coarse sand (300 mm) is laid at the bottom of the trench. Then the sand cushion is wetted with water and well compacted.
  4. To give precise shapes to the foundation, formwork is placed, and strips of roofing material are fixed.
  5. A reinforcement belt is installed along the perimeter of the trench.
  6. After that, you can fill the foundation with a special solution (5 parts of crushed stone, sand - 3, and cement - 1).
  7. We move the formwork, increasing the construction of the foundation. During pouring, for laying sewers, asbestos pipes are settled in places determined according to the scheme.
  8. Every 50 cm concrete mortar should be compacted.
  9. The foundation "ripens" for at least a month. During solidification, cover it from ultraviolet radiation and periodically wet it with water.
  10. A moisture-proofing material must be rolled out over the concrete structure.
  11. From the outside, a blind area is constructed, its width is from one to two meters, and its height is 150 mm. This is done so that natural precipitation is diverted from the first floor or basement. It must be divided into sections to prevent various deformations or breaks.

Wall masonry

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

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Note! Blocks made of foam concrete are superior to brick in terms of heat saving and sound insulation, but at the same time, jointing of huge sizes between foam blocks reduces these indicators to a minimum, and “thermal gaps” are formed.

During masonry, all building codes for construction must be observed, in other words, reinforcing places under door and window openings, supporting lintels, etc. with fiberglass weaves. Thus, a house made of foam blocks can be insulated.

Very carefully it is necessary to lay the 1st row, checking the verticality and horizontality of the structure with a water level. Correcting the unevenness is not difficult, since the foam blocks lend themselves well to processing - sawing, planing and much more.

To install the reinforcement, holes of 0.3 × 0.3 m are cut out on the surface of the foam block using circular saw. Then they are filled with a special adhesive solution. In a plank formwork form, a reinforcing screed 0.2 m is made along the top row of blocks.

Externally, glass wool insulation or polystyrene foam 5 cm wide is insulated. This is necessary so that the walls “breathe”. The first row is laid with a cement mortar, the second - with a special glue. The height of the plinth should be 0.4 m.

Further, mineral sheets are fixed outside with plastic anchors. On top of them, wind and waterproof material should be fixed. facade wall laid on a mortar of cement by the principle of spoon laying. In this case, the tychkovy row is placed every four rows of spoons. In order to increase air circulation, it is necessary to separate the front masonry and the main wall with a five-centimeter interval.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

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Note! At brick cladding every 5 rows, the facade masonry should be connected with blocks using flexible anchors and fiberglass material (cracks may form when using rigid materials).

For the construction of any structure, heat-efficient blocks can be used, which combine three layers at the same time: expanded clay concrete, expanded polystyrene and concrete. Dye is added from the outside, and front side resembles the texture and color of any stone or facing material.

Overlappings

The design of the floors is carried out according to a ready-made scheme, which gives an idea of ​​the interaction between the load of the beam, the dimensions of the span and the section of the bars. You can use boards connected with screws. The ends are sawn off at a certain angle - 60 degrees. Then there is an antiseptic treatment and wrapping with bitumen.

Initially, the final beam beams are laid, then the rest. Beams with a size of 200 mm or more are placed on the wall structure. The basement structure should be thermally insulated with a special film and insulation. A metal crate is attached above the bars. Then a fiberglass mesh is applied and mineral insulation. On the top floor, sheets of plywood and balsam fiber are attached. Finally, we cover the floor with chipboard sheets.

Roof of the house from foam blocks

It is necessary to build a rigid structure, using a bar crate and supplementing it with roof trusses. A certain distance should be observed between the rafters - from 600 to 900 mm, the dimensions of the rafters are from 50 to 150 and from 100 to 150 mm. They are installed at an angle of 20 degrees.

Galvanized iron better fit for a skate, but the valley from it turns out to be quite good. To continue the "life" of the slate roof, you need to paint it with a water-dispersion coating. In this case, the service life of the roofing material can be increased by 1.5 times.

Slate installation

  • Boards are attached at right angles to rafter legs. Their dimensions are 2.5 × 10 cm and with an interval of 0.2 m.
  • Then the corner edges of the slate sheets are cut off. This is done in order to prevent layering at the points of their joining.
  • Next, you need to make holes at a distance of 0.1 m from the edge. Please note that the diameter of the hole must be larger than the diameter of the nail.
  • With the help of nails with a round cap, slate is attached.
  • It is necessary to start nailing the slate from the bottom row. Holes are prepared in advance.

A house made of foam blocks is warm, reliable and stable. In such a building you can live with the same comfort as in a brick one. The building endures the vagaries of the weather and is capable of comfortable living in it.

Material characteristic

The foam block is an artificial building material with a light porous structure, which consists of a filler (sand) and a blowing agent (synthetic or organic surfactants). The pores in the material occupy more than 50%.

The main characteristics of the foam block include:

  • strength (strength classes B0.35 - B40);
  • density (density grades D200 - D1200);
  • frost resistance (frost resistance grades F15 - F500);
  • thermal conductivity;
  • vapor permeability.

Depending on the brand of density, the purpose of the foam blocks is determined:

  1. Thermal insulation(D200 - D350) blocks with a density of 200–350 kg/m3. Due to their high porosity, they have low thermal conductivity and are suitable only for thermal insulation. It is absolutely impossible to build load-bearing walls from such blocks due to their very low strength.
  2. Structural and heat-insulating(D400 - D600). Universal blocks for construction bearing walls with a sufficient degree of thermal insulation. They are mainly used for low-rise buildings.
  3. Structural(D700 - D1600). Blocks with a very high density, which are used to erect buildings of unlimited height.

If the height of your future house is not more than three floors, then it is more rational to use structural and heat-insulating foam blocks of D400, D500 or B600 strength grades. The sizes of blocks of the specified brands are accepted in accordance with GOST. The thickness is chosen, as a rule, depending on its purpose (internal, external wall or partition).

Advantages and disadvantages of a foam block house

Advantages and disadvantages of foam blocks as building material characterize the features of the house built from it.

Compared to other materials, it has several advantages:

  • Low thermal conductivity.
  • Low weight, due to high porosity, which allows you to work alone without much labor and special equipment. Due to this, the structure loads the foundation less, which makes it not so powerful.
  • Large size, which increases the speed of construction.
  • The small price of the foam block affects the cost of the house itself.
  • Incombustibility of the foam block, which provides the house with the first degree of fire resistance.
  • Durability and no maintenance costs.
  • Flexibility that allows you to easily cut blocks into pieces and make holes in them.
  • unique appearance, which is achieved by various finishing methods.
    Due to the listed advantages, foam blocks are widely used in private housing construction. The erection of walls from them is within the power of a person without experience and without the availability of special equipment.

Despite the obvious advantages of the material, it should be said about its shortcomings:

  • The use of special glue for the installation of foam blocks, which provides the entire wall structure with the necessary strength. It is much more expensive than cement-sand mortar, which will certainly affect the total cost of the house.
  • Need for outdoor decoration to protect the material from the effects of precipitation (plaster or facing brick).
  • Possibility of use in rooms with relative humidity air no more than 75%. In other cases, it is necessary to provide vapor barrier protection, which again will affect the total cost of the house, especially if it occupies a significant area, for example, a swimming pool.
  • The need for additional thermal insulation, since a wall one block thick may not pass the heat engineering calculation.

Before choosing wall material, which you will use when building a house, you need to take into account all its features so that unexpected problems do not appear at the time of construction or after putting the house into operation.

Necessary materials and tools for building a house with your own hands

To build a house from foam concrete blocks, you need to prepare the blocks themselves, the adhesive mixture and reinforcing bars directly.

Materials must be protected from atmospheric precipitation throughout the construction.

Tools you will need for different stages construction, you need to prepare in advance:

  • notched trowel or trowel for applying the adhesive mixture;
  • hacksaw for sawing blocks to the desired size;
  • a pickaxe hammer for giving blocks an irregular shape;
  • rubber mallet (used to work on setting the blocks in the desired position);
  • the planer is designed to level significant irregularities;
  • sanding board for finishing surfaces;
  • building cord for orienting blocks along it during masonry;
  • level for checking the horizontalness of surfaces;
  • a plumb line to check the verticality of the masonry;
  • container for mixing the solution;
  • drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
  • a spatula is used for grouting joints, cracks and chips;
  • block brush.

Optimal dimensions of the house and calculation of materials

Before building a house milestone is its design. When determining the dimensions, you should be guided by the following conditions:

  • the size of the existing site;
  • the number of people living in the house;
  • degree of complexity of the project;
  • the number of premises required;
  • desired construction cost.

The calculation of the required number of foam concrete blocks is carried out as follows:

  1. The length of the walls of each floor is determined: L1 = (6.0 × 4) + (8.0 × 2) + 3.0 = 40.0 m and L2 = (4.5 × 4) + (8.0 × 2) = 34.0 m.
  2. Wall area with a floor height of 2.5 m: S1 = 40.0 × 2.5 = 100.0 m2; S2 = 34.0 × 2.5 = 85.0 m2.
  3. The net area of ​​​​the walls is calculated minus window and door openings of standard sizes (window 1.5 × 1.5 m; door 0.9 × 2.0 m): S1h \u003d 100.0 - (2.25 × 4) - (1 .8 × 4) = 83.8 m2; S2h \u003d 85.0 - (2.25 × 2) - (1.8 × 2) \u003d 76.9 m2.
  4. The obtained values ​​are summarized: Stotal = 83.8 + 76.9 = 160.7 m2.
  5. Calculated required amount foam blocks 198 mm high and 598 mm long. For 1 m2 of wall, 8.5 pieces will be needed, therefore, for an area of ​​160.7 m2: 160.7 × 8.5 = 1366 pieces.
  6. The number of additional and blocks in case of a battle is also taken into account (24 pieces): 1366 + 24 = 1390 pieces.

Total for construction two-story house 1390 pieces of foam concrete blocks will be required. If we compare the cost of a box of a house of the same size made of brick or wood, then one of the most important benefits foam block is its price.
The price of foam blocks in different regions is slightly different. When choosing a manufacturer, you need to pay attention to the quality of products and the remoteness of production from the construction site.

Determining the type of foundation and its device

Before starting the construction of the foundation on the site, a geodetic breakdown of the axes is carried out clearly according to the project.

When determining the type of foundation for a house, you need to pay attention to the level ground water plot, freezing depth and type of soil, load on the foundation. As a rule, when the owner builds housing with his own hands, he neglects high-quality design and survey work due to the significant financial costs for them. If the groundwater level and soil type can be checked independently by drilling a 2.5-3 m well, then it is best to entrust the calculation of the load on the foundation, the determination of the required laying depth and its type to professionals.

As a rule, if the groundwater level is at a depth of less than 2 m, then a slab is mounted monolithic foundation. If this indicator is more than 2 m, the level of freezing of the soil does not exceed 1 m, the soil is slightly heaving or non-heaving, then most often they build a shallow tape monolithic foundation. Work on its device is not particularly difficult, and even a non-professional can do it.

Dig a trench for marking required depth and width, sand and gravel bedding 15–20 cm thick is laid on the bottom and formwork is mounted, which is made of planed boards 5 cm thick. Spacers are installed in 1 m increments so that the concrete does not deform the structure.

In parallel with the erection of the formwork, reinforcement is laid. Before concreting, the boards are moistened with water and the concrete is laid in stages with the compaction of each layer by vibration. After completing these works, the foundation is covered with cloth or sawdust and kept moist to prevent cracking.

Now the formwork can be disassembled, and then do waterproofing works. They are needed to protect the foundation from the effects of groundwater and precipitation. Waterproofing is applied to all external surfaces in different ways using materials that differ in price, application complexity and service life.

After all work is completed, the site around the house is planned to ensure water flow from the building. After the expiration of 28 days, the foundation can be loaded and the construction of walls can begin, this time is necessary for concrete to gain its strength.

Step-by-step instructions for building walls from foam blocks

After the foundation is completely settled, you can start building walls:

  1. Before installing the first row of foam blocks, it is necessary to check building level foundation horizontal. Regardless of its type, the horizontal deviation should not exceed 30 mm. If this condition is not met, then the surface must be leveled.
  2. Next, you need to apply cement-sand mortar 1 - 2 cm thick, and lay a roll on it waterproofing material. It is preferable to lay it with an overlap of 150 mm.
  3. The device of the first row of external walls is the most important work throughout the entire construction. Blocks are installed strictly according to the project, because all subsequent rows will depend on the quality of the masonry of the first. Initially, building materials are placed in the corners of the building on a cement-sand mortar. The upper surface of the blocks is checked with a building level for strict horizontality and, if necessary, knocked out with a mallet.
  4. A mooring cord is pulled between the corner blocks, relative to which intermediate ones are laid out on a cement-sand mortar, completely closing the first row of the building.
  5. If there is a need for a block of a non-standard size, then it is sawn hand saw. The surface is not always smooth, so it is leveled with a planer if necessary.
  6. The second row of outer walls begins to be laid approximately 2 hours after the mortar of the first one has set. They begin to lay blocks from the corners of the building, subsequently filling the gaps with respect to the stretched cord. They are placed on the adhesive mixture, which is evenly distributed with a toothed trowel over the surface. Each block is checked with a level for horizontal and vertical.
  7. The subsequent rows are laid with dressing with the previous ones to a depth of at least 100 mm. The resulting dust and dirt should be removed immediately with brushes.
  8. adjoining internal walls to external ones, they are performed using dressing, while the walls are checked for horizontal alignment.
  9. For the construction of partitions, special connections are used, which are laid in the seams. The anchors are placed with one end into the wall, and with the other end into the seam between the partition blocks. Flexible connections are installed every two rows of masonry.
  10. To provide additional stability to the walls and protect the masonry from cracks, it is necessary to carry out reinforcement. The reinforcement is laid in recesses in the blocks, which are previously made with a wall chaser.
  11. For the installation of jumpers over window and doorways usually use ready-made prefabricated structures of the required dimensions. First of all, you need to pay attention to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe support and the accuracy of the installation. To ensure this, the jumper is knocked out rubber mallet. If its length is more than 125 cm, then it is necessary to provide additional supporting elements supporting it. The supports are dismantled after gaining the required strength with an adhesive solution.
  12. If the height of the house is more than 1 floor, then an important stage in the construction will be the installation of interfloor ceilings. Plates do not rest directly on the blocks. For these purposes, a monolithic armored belt made of concrete is poured over the foam block walls, and floor slabs are already placed on it. The armored belt connects the load-bearing walls of the building along the perimeter and evenly distributes the load on the walls. The dimensions are almost always standard: width - 300 mm, height - 200 mm. Considering that the armored belt violates thermal insulation outer wall, then it requires additional insulation.
  13. After the concrete in the armored belt gains strength, floor slabs are supported on it.
  14. The second floor is built similarly to the walls of the first. For getting smooth surface significant irregularities are removed with a planer, the excess adhesive solution is removed with a spatula, and the cracks are overwritten.
  15. The attic floor of a house made of foam blocks is made by analogy with the interfloor or a beam structure made of wood or metal is used.
  16. The roof can be single-pitched, gable, hip or mansard.
  17. After completing all of the above, proceed to exterior finish Houses.

Work on the installation of the roof is carried out in the following sequence: installation of truss beams, execution of lathing and counter lathing, thermal insulation, coating roofing material.

As the latter, natural or soft tiles, metal tiles, roofing steel or rolled materials.
To provide the masonry with the necessary strength, the sequence of dressing the longitudinal and transverse seams should be observed. Several times it is necessary to check the evenness of corners and horizontal surfaces with the immediate elimination of the identified deviations.

Features of the interior decoration of the house from foam blocks

main feature interior decoration walls made of foam blocks - this is an undesirable implementation of wet processes, because the water absorption of this material should be no more than 12% of its own volume. For this reason, the walls are very poorly plastered, and preference is given to finishing materials installed on frame structures.

Most popular options:

  • plastic panels;
  • plasterboard (GKL) sheets;
  • gypsum fiber sheets (GVL).

All these materials require their installation on wooden or aluminum frames. The surface of GKL and GVL requires finishing putty and subsequent application decorative material(wallpaper, paint, textured plaster).

In addition, wall surfaces in rooms with high humidity it is necessary to provide a vapor barrier so that excess liquid does not accumulate in the foam blocks and does not lead to their premature destruction.

Disadvantages of material for building a house

There are not many disadvantages of the product, but it is necessary to talk about them as well. The biggest negative feature of foam blocks is that they are unstable to mechanical stress. Blocks crack due to improper transportation, careless handling. But the most unpleasant and unexpected thing is that the block can break when laid in the wall. This happens when the foundation shrinks, the movement of the soil.

The porous structure of foam blocks, which greatly facilitates their weight, causes high hygroscopicity. In order for the material to remain a reliable heat insulator, it is necessary to take care of hydroprotection. Otherwise, the pores of the block will absorb moisture, lose their thermal insulation abilities and collapse.

Another disadvantage is that the foam block house requires exterior decoration. Even blocks of high grade do not look elegant and solid. Therefore, external decoration is necessary. In this case, the minus becomes a plus, because this finish provides additional water protection.

The choice of foam concrete for the construction of a dwelling

After deciding to build a house on your own, you need to dwell on the material from which the house will be built.

If the choice is stopped on foam blocks, then you should deal with the variety of offers of this material:

  • Density of foam concrete - depending on the density of the material, the purpose in construction is determined. These can be foam blocks for construction, for thermal insulation and mixed - structural - insulating.
  • Type of material - the construction market offers several standard sizes, depending on the need, you can use: classic monoblock, block with voids, lego - foam block. Foam block - Lego makes it possible to use the material in vertical masonry.
  • Category and grade of blocks - if it is planned to finish on top of the foam blocks, then it is permissible to use any category of building material. The difference between the first and second grades is only in minor external defects of the latter: chips, scratches, not perfectly even edges. But when laying blocks the best variety, increases the time spent on leveling the seams. Also, more glue or mortar is spent on connecting the blocks together. External flaws can be covered with a top coat.

So it's up to you to decide what grade of materials to use. There are three types of foam blocks. The difference between the third and the first reaches large numbers. The first grade is three times more expensive than the third.

  • Buying material is at a base located as close to home as possible. Due to its fragility, a long road can significantly reduce the number of entire blocks.

Foam block house project

Turning to specialists with a request to design a residential building is a very expensive service. You can create a project yourself and it will not cost any financial costs, and you can take into account all the nuances and design a house for yourself and your needs.

When planning the construction and planning the upcoming house, keep in mind that it is advisable to build a house with several floors on a small plot. In this case, many buildings will be collected in one place: a cellar, a garage, a basement, the house itself. If the plot is large and does not limit the construction of a large house, then the dwelling should be built taking into account the number of inhabitants. With independent design, it is best to opt for a one-story building. The simpler the architectural structure, the easier it is to build and strengthen. The simplicity of the future home will save money, effort and time for its construction.

Instructions for building a house from foam blocks

Before starting construction, you should prepare a tool that will be needed in the process of building a house:

  • Master OK;
  • mallet;
  • scissors;
  • ruler;
  • roulette;
  • scissors;
  • building level or plumb;
  • putty knife;
  • chisel;
  • screwdriver;
  • hacksaw for metal;
  • Bulgarian;
  • electric drill;
  • sawmill;
  • concrete mixer.

If the tool is easy to assemble, using both the existing one and those taken from friends, then you will have to work hard to develop a project. So many preparatory work, during which it is necessary to agree on a project for water supply, wastewater disposal, heating system. An electrical and gas supply plan must also be available. It is necessary to keep a clear record of issues, expenses, plan everything and be able to be flexible.

The two most important questions to consider are:

  • obtaining certificates permitting construction should be taken into account if the site does not have a source of water, it is necessary to drill a well, and a building for storing tools is also needed;
  • after solving the previous issues, one should deal with the procurement of material, the preparation of tools, and it is not advisable to buy all the material at once, buying as needed is more cost-effective.

Technology of installation of foam blocks

The laying of foam blocks does not differ from the laying of bricks, cinder blocks. If there is at least minimum experience construction, it will not be difficult to build walls from a foam block. Even if this is the first experience in construction, when using the level, even a beginner will be able to build walls. Moreover, laying blocks is easier than cinder block, because it is much lighter and simpler than brick, because the foam block is larger.

Before laying the first row, one should not forget about waterproofing - roofing material is laid on the foundation. It will prevent the penetration of moisture into the porous structure of the foam block. First, the corner blocks are laid, the corner is immediately laid in a height of five to six blocks. Using a level, you should check how even the foundation line is, if necessary, cement mortar correct any inconsistencies.

When laying foam blocks, the level is constantly monitored, if necessary, more glue or mortar is added, if necessary, you can use a mallet. Leaving defects for later is not recommended, all defects are eliminated immediately. Every five to six rows, reinforcement is laid around the perimeter of the entire building.

Calculation of foam blocks for the house

In order not to end up in a situation where too much or too little was bought for the construction of a house, it is necessary to correctly calculate the required amount in advance. To do this, it is necessary to develop as much as possible precise drawing. You can come up with drawings of a foam block house on your own, use existing ones, or invite an architect or designer to help.

A sketch of the house is drawn on a large drawing paper with an emphasis on such details:

  • width, length, height of the house;
  • building walls, windows and doors.
  • wall dimensions: not only length and height, but also thickness);
  • dimensions and number of doors and window openings;
  • foam block dimensions.

The simple step of calculating the quantity without taking into account the openings of windows and doors can be carried out quickly. This is an easy process. The total length of the walls is multiplied by the height and width. The number is fixed.

It will not be difficult to calculate the number of foam blocks that are saved taking into account openings if the sizes of windows and doors are the same. The width, height and thickness of the opening are multiplied and thus the result is obtained. It is multiplied by the number of windows or doors. Finally, all results are summed up.

To calculate the number of blocks, you need to divide the volume of the walls by the volume of one block. If you are afraid to make a mistake and buy extra blocks, you can use online calculator, which will help calculate the number of foam blocks for building a house correctly.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work at the construction site is to free it from debris, unnecessary items and the delivery of building materials. You will need access to electricity and water. If possible, only those materials that are needed at a particular stage of work should be brought to the construction site so as not to clutter up the workspace.

The first stage of construction will be laying the foundation, for which it is necessary to remove about 10 cm of the topsoil and thoroughly clean the soil from stones. It is advisable to thoroughly grind the soil, for its denser shrinkage. It is critical to prevent any foreign objects from entering the ground, as this can lead to problems with the foundation.

Walling

It is not difficult to build a house with your own hands from foam blocks, but when building walls, you should be careful and clearly calculate the verticals and horizontals. Before starting work, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer on the foundation.

Foam blocks are laid in the same order as in the case of bricks - this is called dressing. Each next block must be shifted by half the length of the lower one. This will ensure the overall strength of the structure.

The connection of foam blocks is carried out using a special adhesive solution. It is mandatory to check the accuracy of the installation, for this it is used laser level or level.

In order for a house made of foam blocks to serve for a long time, and cracks do not appear in the walls, they must be reinforced. To do this, it is necessary to cut special strobes (4 × 4 cm) on the surface of the first row of blocks. The distance from the edge of the block must be at least 6 cm.

Having made two parallel grooves in the blocks, gently fill them with building glue and lay reinforcement of a suitable diameter there. A similar procedure should be repeated every 4 rows of laying foam blocks.

Do not forget that over the door and window openings it is necessary to lay the corners along the edges of the blocks. The corners should protrude beyond the edges by about 5-6 cm to ensure the strength of the structure.

Interior and exterior decoration

A house made of foam blocks with your own hands will not look decent if you do not finish the facade. Over time, the material may darken, and general form untreated walls are not distinguished by beauty.

Popular ways to finish the facade of the house include the following:

  • The use of special plaster for foam blocks;
  • Finishing decorative stone;
  • Siding and panels;
  • Silicone paint for grouting.

Each of these finishing methods requires the preparation of the surface of the walls. For example, to decorate decorative stone it is necessary to carefully level the surface and prime it well for better adhesion of materials. If you decide to use siding, be sure to leave a small insulating gap between the material and the wall itself. Stucco is the easiest option, but it does not give the same visual effect as other materials.

As for the interior decoration, here you can already give free rein to your imagination and use absolutely any materials and methods. The main condition is to level and plaster the walls.

As you can see, building a house from foam blocks with your own hands is not such a difficult thing. If you clearly follow all existing instructions, and also have at hand the right technique and assistants, then you can build a house in about 1 month, not counting the time for solidification of the concrete foundation structures. If you decide to implement such a project, be sure to check out the available guides and expert advice. Then you will have a reliable and beautiful home.

Interfloor ceilings in aerated concrete house

Depending on the construction of the building made of foam block material, it is possible to use prefabricated ones (reinforced concrete slabs, wooden or metal beams) and monolithic floors.

When building a private house, use as a ceiling reinforced concrete slabs inappropriate for a number of reasons. Firstly, delivery and installation at the site will require the involvement of a crane, and secondly, the walls for such a ceiling will require an increase in the bearing capacity, which leads to an increase in the cost of construction.

If you decide to use a concrete floor slab, then choosing a monolithic structure will be more appropriate. This is an option in which concrete is poured over the reinforcing cage on site. Only industrial concrete should be used for pouring. Despite the obvious advantages of monolithic floors, this option will also require the involvement of special equipment, which will entail additional costs.

Wooden floors in a house made of foam blocks are the most optimal and inexpensive option. For the construction of the structure, logs and glued beams with a diameter of at least 200 mm are used, the main thing is that they are well dried and treated with an antiseptic. In the foam block walls, special galvanized threaded anchors are laid, on which ruberoid gaskets and wooden “pads” impregnated with an antiseptic are applied. The beams are mounted on the anchor and tightened with washers.

On the support beams installed on the foam block house, they begin to lay directly wooden floors. For strapping beams, boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more are used, depending on the purpose of the floor. Attic and ceilings above basement be sure to insulate using mineral wool, expanded clay or polystyrene for this, and waterproofing material should also be used above the basement.

Wooden floors in a house made of foam blocks have a number of advantages, these are ease of installation, ease of construction, and inexpensive material. To disadvantages wooden structures can be attributed to their relative unreliability, as well as restrictions on the length.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

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If the distance between the bearing walls is more than 5 meters, it is advisable to use rolled metal as beams. The main advantage of this type of overlap is the strength and reliability of the structure. When choosing a metal profile, you should calculate the expected load on the structure, for attic floor it is approximately 75 kg per 1 m2, for interfloor - approximately 150 kg per 1 m2.

Insulation and decorative wall decoration

The disadvantages of buildings made of foam concrete blocks include the need for exterior wall decoration. Foam concrete is a hygroscopic material, it tends to accumulate moisture, which leads to destruction when negative temperatures. In addition, the foam block darkens over time, which does not add to the attractiveness of the house. To protect the house from destruction, a front wall finish will be required, it will strengthen specifications foam concrete and make the house even warmer and stronger.

The easiest way to finish is to grout the joints and then paint the foam concrete walls with silicone waterproof paints.

The second type of finish is covering the facade with a layer of plaster, and you can use both special mixtures for foam concrete and popular decorative plasters type "bark beetle". The pie of the wall of the house from foam blocks in the case of using the “wet” facade method consists of the wall itself, on which the insulation is glued.

A reinforcing mesh is attached over the insulation, along which the walls are plastered.
The decoration of foam block walls with siding is also popular. In this form, the wall pie of the foam block house will consist of a wooden or metal crate, insulation sheets, fixed with glue or large-head screws and siding panels directly.

The only drawback is the rather high cost.

You can also veneer the facade of the house from foam blocks with natural or artificial stone, clinker bricks. But such a finish at high costs will not particularly improve operational properties walls.

Homeowners who use foam blocks for construction leave mostly positive reviews. Of course, there are dissatisfied developers who, after a year or two, cracks appear on their houses. But this is not a problem of foam concrete, but of poor-quality construction, or rather, a poorly prepared foundation. Subject to all technological processes, when choosing a quality building material, a house made of foam blocks will delight you for many years.

We dig a trench

We carry out the markup, taking into account the dimensions and configuration of the future structure. After that, we shoot all over the site upper layer soil.

We make formwork

For formwork, unplaned boards and other similar materials are suitable. In height, 10 cm will be enough. We make the width of the formwork half a brick more than the width of the base. We lay waterproofing material in the formwork. Ruberoid is good. It will prevent moisture from the soil from rising through the concrete to the bricks. We pour concrete to the height of the formwork and let it dry a little for 3 days.

Laying bricks

We start laying bricks. We work with any standard dressing. In total we will lay out 4 rows. For an average foam block house, such a foundation will be enough power. Between the 1st and 2nd rows of bricks we place a reinforcing mesh. We also lay the reinforcement on top of the last row of the base.

We make waterproofing

We isolate the walls of the foundation with the help of pasting or coating material. Bitumen-based waterproofing is best suited.

We warm the foundation

If desired, you can insulate the outer walls of the foundation with foam, and then fill the trench with gravel or sand.

We equip drainage

In areas with particularly wet soil, drainage must be arranged.

To do this, we do the following.

  1. First step. We cover the bottom of the trench between the walls of the foundation and the foundation pit with geotextiles.
  2. Second step. On top of the geotextile we pour a layer of gravel.
  3. Third step. We lay perforated pipes on gravel at a slight angle.
  4. Fourth step. We cover the pipes with geotextiles and fall asleep with gravel.
  5. Fifth step. We fill the structure with sand in layers. Carefully tamp each layer.

Pipes are diverted to pre-arranged drainage channels or wells.

Building a house

We check the horizontalness of the surface of the base using a level. We are interested in angles. If they are all on the same level, we start laying from any convenient angle. If there are discrepancies, we build from the highest point. In such a situation, we lay the first row of foam blocks on a cement mortar - it dries longer than glue, which will allow us to align all the blocks to the same level.

We lay roofing material on the foundation in 2 layers and proceed to laying.

Putting the first row

By level, we set 1 block in each corner. We stretch a cord along the upper edge of the building elements - it will help us navigate in the process of laying walls. We fill the space between the corner blocks.

We apply glue or cement mortar both on the base of the foam blocks and on their side faces. Building elements are laid as tightly as possible. Each block is leveled.

If it is not possible to lay out a row of a whole number of foam blocks, carefully and as evenly as possible cut off the extra piece using a special saw or an ordinary hacksaw with large teeth. Irregularities are carefully sanded. It is convenient to do this with a special tool. In the absence of such, we are guided by the situation. For example, the surface can be leveled with a drywall planer.

Important! When laying out the first and subsequent rows, do not forget to leave openings for installing doors. Recommendations for the arrangement of window openings will be given below.

We reinforce the masonry

The first row of masonry is necessarily reinforced. To do this, we first cut out strobes 3-4 mm wide with a similar depth in the upper edge of the blocks. To equip the recesses, we use a wall chaser or a grinder.

If you plan to build a large house, it is better to make reinforcement in two rows. In this case, the distance between the strobes and the outer edges of the foam block should be at least 60 mm. We clean the strobes and blocks from dust and pieces of material. We lay 8-10 mm reinforcement in the grooves and fill it with cement mortar or glue for foam blocks. We reinforce the entire first row around the perimeter. In the future, a similar reinforcement is performed every 4 rows.

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Important! We select the length of the gate so that the length of the corners exceeds the width of the reinforced opening by at least 0.5 m.

We lay out the walls to the design height. After that, we equip the armored belt for overlapping. He is reinforced concrete structure with an average thickness of about 200 mm.

There is nothing particularly complicated in the process of making an armored belt. The main thing is to make the formwork correctly. The structure must be detachable. For assembly, we use boards or another sheet material, for example, OSB.

We install the formwork over the walls, place a reinforcing cage inside it (it is recommended to reinforce in all three planes, so it is more convenient to assemble the mesh in advance and insert it into the formwork in finished form), pour concrete. We give concrete a month to set strength and only after that we continue construction.

Making a roof

The armored belt is ready. We can start arranging the roof. The procedure is the same as in the construction of houses from other materials, and depends on the features of the chosen roof structure.

Choose the type of roof of your choice.

She may be:

  • shed - best suited for all kinds of outbuildings;
  • gable - best option for country houses;
  • hip, attic, etc. - a great solution for a residential building.

Choose the best option and consistently perform all relevant activities, including:

  • installation of rafters;
  • fastening of battens and counter-battens;
  • installation insulating materials; installation of the selected finish.

Based on materials from the site: kakpravilnosdelat.ru, postroika.biz, strport.ru, svoimirukami.lesstroy.net, bikton.ru, stroyday.ru

Many people dream of building a house with their own hands - this is not just the realization of their own design fantasies, but also significant cost savings. One of the cheapest and simple projects houses is considered a house of foam blocks. We will now tell about the main stages of the construction of such housing.

The foam block is a fairly new building material, consisting of a cement mortar with the addition of foaming agents. Thanks to this, the foam blocks have a number of useful properties, and in some cases surpass other building materials in their performance.

The indisputable advantages of foam blocks include their excellent thermal insulation properties and good resistance to moisture penetration. This material is environmentally friendly and does not need special coatings for protection. Foam blocks, in comparison, for example, with bricks, are quite light, which saves on laying the foundation for high loads. And finally, the total cost of building a house from foam blocks with your own hands will be much lower than from brick or other materials.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work at the construction site is to free it from debris, unnecessary items and the delivery of building materials. You will need access to electricity and water. If possible, only those materials that are needed at a particular stage of work should be brought to the construction site so as not to clutter up the workspace.

The first stage of construction will be laying the foundation, for which it is necessary to remove about 10 cm of the topsoil and thoroughly clean the soil from stones. It is advisable to thoroughly grind the soil, for its denser shrinkage. It is critical to prevent any foreign objects from entering the ground, as this can lead to problems with the foundation.

The best option for a foam block house can be called strip foundation is the simplest and universal option to build a house with your own hands. They begin work with markings: with the help of pegs and ropes, they mark the boundaries of the future foundation.

Next, start digging trenches. It is necessary to retreat about 20-30 cm from the pegs, but if the site has sufficiently dense soil, then you can limit yourself to the dimensions indicated by the ropes. However, the stock never hurts, although it will take more cement.

As for the depth of the trench, it is worth focusing on the depth of freezing of the soil in your area. Such data can be obtained from specialists. Digging a trench below the freezing level is necessary in order for the foundation to take its position tightly, because over time the structure will sag a little.

Next, go to the "pillows" tab. This is a special layer of crushed stone, sand, pebbles or brickwork, on which the concrete foundation layer will be directly laid. The height of the pillow should be at least 10 cm, and preferably 15-20 cm. To increase the density, the “pillow” must be poured with water and properly tamped. Note that you will not need a flat pillow, that is, there is no need to maintain the ideal forms of this stage. However, too large differences should not be made too, so that the concrete, during its pouring, can be evenly distributed over the area with approximately the same layer thickness.

It is imperative to carry out reinforcement - the procedure consists in installing steel reinforcement along the perimeter of the created trench. You should get a kind of frame that will add strength to the concrete structure.

After reinforcement, formwork is carried out - laying boards (or other even materials) along the edges of the trench, which will directly shape the future foundation and keep the concrete from spreading.

For mixing and pouring concrete, you need to have a concrete mixer and a few assistants on hand, since the work needs to be done fairly quickly. The period of initial hardening of concrete is about 3 hours, so during this time you should try to completely fill the entire foundation. It is necessary to avoid options when fresh concrete gets into places where already poured has seized a little, as this can lead to cracks in the foundation.

When building a house with your own hands from foam blocks, it is worth considering the period of complete solidification of the concrete foundation. Depending on weather conditions and ambient temperature, it can be about a month. It is recommended to cover the foundation polyethylene film in order to retain moisture and uniform solidification. This rule is especially relevant when there is not enough high temperatures. The norm for construction is considered to be a temperature of about 20-25 degrees above zero.

Walling

It is not difficult to build a house with your own hands from foam blocks, but when building walls, you should be careful and clearly calculate the verticals and horizontals. Before starting work, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer on the foundation.

Foam blocks are laid in the same order as in the case of bricks - this is called dressing. Each next block must be shifted by half the length of the lower one. This will ensure the overall strength of the structure.

The connection of foam blocks is carried out using a special adhesive solution. It is imperative to check the accuracy of the installation, for this a laser level or level is used.

In order for a house made of foam blocks to serve for a long time, and cracks do not appear in the walls, they must be reinforced. To do this, it is necessary to cut special strobes (4 × 4 cm) on the surface of the first row of blocks. The indent from the edge of the block should be at least 6 cm. Having made two parallel grooves in the blocks, gently fill them with building glue and lay reinforcement of a suitable diameter there. A similar procedure should be repeated every 4 rows of laying foam blocks.

Do not forget that over the door and window openings it is necessary to lay the corners along the edges of the blocks. The corners should protrude beyond the edges by about 5-6 cm to ensure the strength of the structure.

Roof

Roofing work should begin a few days after the walls are erected, so that the mass gluing the foam blocks is well frozen. As a rule, when building houses from foam blocks, wooden attic structures are used, since they are much lighter than other options. The shape of the roof is chosen at will - in most cases it will be a gable option.

First of all, a special thick bar called Mauerlat is laid on the upper edge of the existing walls. It performs the function load-bearing element for the entire attic structure.

Next, the rafters are laid - it is best to immediately assemble the attic box on the ground, and then lift it up and install it on the house. Here you need to be careful and evaluate the future weight of the roofing. If it is large enough (for example, the roof will be covered with natural tiles), then the step between the rafters should be small. In other words, the more weight roofing, the smaller should be the step between the installed rafters.

Pay attention to the reliable connection of parts at the joints. The design must not be allowed to "walk". For this, crossbars are used - special reinforcing elements that are installed between the joints. Along each rafter, it is necessary to install slats that will provide a ventilation gap between the supports and the roofing.

For insulation and insulation of the structure, a special film is used and mineral wool. This stage of work should not be skipped, since insulation seriously increases the life of the roof, and also prevents the accumulation of moisture in the attic.

Choose the finish according to your preference. Metal tile is considered one of the most popular materials today, and you may want to use it. Be sure to provide for the possibility of installing gutters, without which the walls of the house and the adjacent area will constantly be flooded with water in the rain.

A house made of foam blocks with your own hands will not look decent if you do not finish the facade. Over time, the material may darken, and the general appearance of untreated walls is not very beautiful.

Popular ways to finish the facade of the house include the following:

  • The use of special plaster for foam blocks;
  • Finishing decorative stone;
  • Siding and panels;
  • Silicone paint for grouting.

Each of these finishing methods requires the preparation of the surface of the walls. For example, for finishing with decorative stone, it is necessary to carefully level the surface and prime it well for better adhesion of materials. If you decide to use siding, be sure to leave a small insulating gap between the material and the wall itself. Stucco is the easiest option, but it does not give the same visual effect as other materials.

As for the interior decoration, here you can already give free rein to your imagination and use absolutely any materials and methods. The main condition is to level and plaster the walls.

As you can see, building a house from foam blocks with your own hands is not such a difficult thing. If you clearly follow all the existing instructions, as well as have the necessary equipment and assistants at hand, then you can build a house in about 1 month, not counting the time for solidification of the concrete foundation structures. If you decide to implement such a project, be sure to check out the available guides and expert advice. Then you will have a reliable and beautiful home.

Foam block is one of the most popular materials in suburban construction. Like any other, it has a number of advantages and disadvantages that should be considered before starting work. To build a house from foam blocks with your own hands, you need to carefully study the basic properties of the material and the technology of working with it.

Material characteristic

The foam block is an artificial building material with a light porous structure, which consists of a filler (sand) and a blowing agent (synthetic or organic surfactants). The pores in the material occupy more than 50%.

The main characteristics of the foam block include:

  • strength (strength classes B0.35 - B40);
  • density (density grades D200 - D1200);
  • frost resistance (frost resistance grades F15 - F500);
  • thermal conductivity;
  • vapor permeability.

Depending on the brand of density, the purpose of the foam blocks is determined:

  1. Thermal insulation (D200 - D350) blocks with a density of 200-350 kg / m 3. Due to their high porosity, they have low thermal conductivity and are suitable only for thermal insulation. It is absolutely impossible to build load-bearing walls from such blocks due to their very low strength.
  2. Structural and heat-insulating (D400 - D600). Universal blocks for the construction of load-bearing walls with a sufficient degree of thermal insulation. They are mainly used for low-rise buildings.
  3. Structural (D700 - D1600). Blocks with a very high density, which are used to erect buildings of unlimited height.

If the height of your future house is not more than three floors, then it is more rational to use structural and heat-insulating foam blocks of D400, D500 or B600 strength grades. The sizes of blocks of the specified brands are accepted in accordance with GOST. The thickness is chosen, as a rule, depending on its purpose (internal, external wall or partition).

Table: ratio of block parameters

Advantages and disadvantages of a foam block house

The advantages and disadvantages of foam blocks as a building material are also characterized by the features of a house built from it. Compared to other materials, it has several advantages:

  1. Low thermal conductivity.
  2. Low weight, due to high porosity, which allows you to work alone without much labor and special equipment. Due to this, the structure loads the foundation less, which makes it not so powerful.
  3. Large size, which increases the speed of construction.
  4. The small price of the foam block affects the cost of the house itself.
  5. Incombustibility of the foam block, which provides the house with the first degree of fire resistance.
  6. Durability and no maintenance costs.
  7. Flexibility that allows you to easily cut blocks into pieces and make holes in them.
  8. Unique appearance, which is achieved by various finishing methods.

Due to the listed advantages, foam blocks are widely used in private housing construction. The erection of walls from them is within the power of a person without experience and without the availability of special equipment. Despite the obvious advantages of the material, it should be said about its shortcomings:

  1. The use of special glue for the installation of foam blocks, which provides the entire wall structure with the necessary strength. It is much more expensive than cement-sand mortar, which will certainly affect the total cost of the house.
  2. The need for exterior finish to protect the material from the effects of precipitation (plaster or facing brick).
  3. Can be used in rooms with a relative humidity of not more than 75%. In other cases, it is necessary to provide vapor barrier protection, which again will affect the total cost of the house, especially if it occupies a significant area, for example, a swimming pool.
  4. The need for additional thermal insulation, since a wall one block thick may not pass the heat engineering calculation.

Before choosing the wall material that you will use when building a house, you need to take into account all its features so that unexpected problems do not appear during construction or after the house is put into operation.

Photo gallery: options for exterior decoration of the house

Necessary materials and tools for building a house with your own hands

To build a house from foam concrete blocks, you need to prepare the blocks themselves, the adhesive mixture and reinforcing bars directly.

Materials must be protected from atmospheric precipitation throughout the construction.

The tools that you will need at different stages of construction must be prepared in advance:

  • notched trowel or trowel for applying the adhesive mixture;
  • hacksaw for sawing blocks to the desired size;
  • a pickaxe hammer for giving blocks an irregular shape;
  • rubber mallet (used to work on setting the blocks in the desired position);
  • the planer is designed to level significant irregularities;
  • sanding board for finishing surfaces;
  • building cord for orienting blocks along it during masonry;
  • level for checking the horizontalness of surfaces;
  • a plumb line to check the verticality of the masonry;
  • container for mixing the solution;
  • drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
  • a spatula is used for grouting joints, cracks and chips;
  • block brush.

Optimal dimensions of the house and calculation of materials

Before building a house, the most important stage is its design. When determining the dimensions, you should be guided by the following conditions:

  • the size of the existing site;
  • the number of people living in the house;
  • degree of complexity of the project;
  • the number of premises required;
  • desired construction cost.

The calculation of the required number of foam concrete blocks is carried out as follows:

  1. The length of the walls of each floor is determined: L 1 = (6.0 × 4) + (8.0 × 2) + 3.0 = 40.0 m and L 2 = (4.5 × 4) + (8.0 × 2) = 34.0 m.
  2. The area of ​​​​the walls with a floor height of 2.5 m: S 1 \u003d 40.0 × 2.5 \u003d 100.0 m 2; S 2 \u003d 34.0 × 2.5 \u003d 85.0 m 2.
  3. The net area of ​​​​the walls is calculated minus window and door openings of standard sizes (window 1.5 × 1.5 m; door 0.9 × 2.0 m): S 1h \u003d 100.0 - (2.25 × 4) - ( 1.8 × 4) = 83.8 m 2; S 2h \u003d 85.0 - (2.25 × 2) - (1.8 × 2) \u003d 76.9 m 2.
  4. The obtained values ​​are summarized: S total = 83.8 + 76.9 = 160.7 m 2.
  5. The required number of foam blocks 198 mm high and 598 mm long is calculated. For 1 m 2 of the wall, 8.5 pieces will be needed, therefore, for an area of ​​160.7 m 2: 160.7 × 8.5 = 1366 pieces.
  6. The number of additional and blocks in case of a battle is also taken into account (24 pieces): 1366 + 24 = 1390 pieces.

In total, for the construction of a two-story house, 1390 pieces of foam concrete blocks will be required. If we compare the cost of a box of a house of the same size made of brick or wood, then one of the most important advantages of the foam block will be obvious - this is its price.

The price of foam blocks in different regions is slightly different. When choosing a manufacturer, you need to pay attention to the quality of products and the remoteness of production from the construction site.

Determining the type of foundation and its device

Before starting the construction of the foundation on the site, a geodetic breakdown of the axes is carried out clearly according to the project.

When determining the type of foundation for a house, you need to pay attention to the groundwater level of the site, the depth of freezing and the type of soil, and the load on the foundation. As a rule, when the owner builds housing with his own hands, he neglects high-quality design and survey work due to the significant financial costs for them. If the groundwater level and soil type can be checked independently by drilling a 2.5-3 m well, then it is best to entrust the calculation of the load on the foundation, the determination of the required laying depth and its type to professionals.

As a rule, if the groundwater level is at a depth of less than 2 m, then a slab monolithic foundation is mounted. If this indicator is more than 2 m, the level of freezing of the soil does not exceed 1 m, the soil is slightly heaving or non-heaving, then most often they build a shallow tape monolithic foundation. Work on its device is not particularly difficult, and even a non-professional can do it.

For marking, they dig a trench of the required depth and width, lay sand and gravel bedding 15–20 cm thick on the bottom and mount the formwork, which is made of planed boards 5 cm thick. Spacers are installed in increments of 1 m so that the concrete does not deform the structure.

In parallel with the erection of the formwork, reinforcement is laid. Before concreting, the boards are moistened with water and the concrete is laid in stages with the compaction of each layer by vibration. After completing these works, the foundation is covered with cloth or sawdust and kept moist to prevent cracking. Now the formwork can be disassembled, after which waterproofing work can be done. They are needed to protect the foundation from the effects of groundwater and precipitation. Waterproofing is applied to all external surfaces in different ways using materials that differ in price, application complexity and service life.

After all work is completed, the site around the house is planned to ensure water flow from the building. After the expiration of 28 days, the foundation can be loaded and the construction of walls can begin, this time is necessary for concrete to gain its strength.

Step-by-step instructions for building walls from foam blocks

After the foundation is completely settled, you can start building walls:

  1. Before installing the first row of foam blocks, it is imperative to check the level of the foundation with a building level. Regardless of its type, the horizontal deviation should not exceed 30 mm. If this condition is not met, then the surface must be leveled.
  2. Next, you need to apply a cement-sand mortar with a thickness of 1 - 2 cm, and lay a rolled waterproofing material on it. It is preferable to lay it with an overlap of 150 mm.
  3. The device of the first row of external walls is the most important work throughout the entire construction. Blocks are installed strictly according to the project, because all subsequent rows will depend on the quality of the masonry of the first. Initially, building materials are placed in the corners of the building on a cement-sand mortar. The upper surface of the blocks is checked with a building level for strict horizontality and, if necessary, knocked out with a mallet.
  4. A mooring cord is pulled between the corner blocks, relative to which intermediate ones are laid out on a cement-sand mortar, completely closing the first row of the building.
  5. If there is a need for a block of non-standard size, then it is sawn with a hand saw. The surface is not always smooth, so it is leveled with a planer if necessary.
  6. The second row of outer walls begins to be laid approximately 2 hours after the mortar of the first one has set. They begin to lay blocks from the corners of the building, subsequently filling the gaps with respect to the stretched cord. They are placed on the adhesive mixture, which is evenly distributed with a toothed trowel over the surface. Each block is checked with a level for horizontal and vertical.
  7. The subsequent rows are laid with dressing with the previous ones to a depth of at least 100 mm. The resulting dust and dirt should be removed immediately with brushes.
  8. The adjoining of the internal walls to the external ones is carried out using dressing, while the walls are checked for horizontal alignment.
  9. For the construction of partitions, special connections are used, which are laid in the seams. The anchors are placed with one end into the wall, and with the other end into the seam between the partition blocks. Flexible connections are installed every two rows of masonry.
  10. To provide additional stability to the walls and protect the masonry from cracks, it is necessary to carry out reinforcement. The reinforcement is laid in recesses in the blocks, which are previously made with a wall chaser.
  11. For the installation of jumpers over window and door openings, prefabricated structures of the required dimensions are usually used. First of all, you need to pay attention to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe support and the accuracy of the installation. To ensure this, the jumper is knocked out with a rubber mallet. If its length is more than 125 cm, then it is necessary to provide additional supporting elements supporting it. The supports are dismantled after gaining the required strength with an adhesive solution.
  12. If the height of the house is more than 1 floor, then an important stage in the construction will be the installation of interfloor ceilings. Plates do not rest directly on the blocks. For these purposes, a monolithic armored belt made of concrete is poured over the foam block walls, and floor slabs are already placed on it. The armored belt connects the load-bearing walls of the building along the perimeter and evenly distributes the load on the walls. The dimensions are almost always standard: width - 300 mm, height - 200 mm. Given that the armored belt violates the thermal insulation of the outer wall, it requires additional insulation.
  13. After the concrete in the armored belt gains strength, floor slabs are supported on it.
  14. The second floor is built similarly to the walls of the first. To obtain a smooth surface, significant irregularities are removed with a planer, excess adhesive solution is removed with a spatula, and the cracks are overwritten.
  15. The attic floor of a house made of foam blocks is made by analogy with the interfloor or a beam structure made of wood or metal is used.
  16. The roof can be single-pitched, gable, hip or mansard.

    Works on the roof device are carried out in the following sequence: installation of rafter beams, execution of lathing and counter-lattices, thermal insulation device, roofing material. As the latter, natural or soft tiles, metal tiles, roofing steel or rolled materials are often used.

  17. After completing all of the above work, proceed to the exterior decoration of the house.

To provide the masonry with the necessary strength, the sequence of dressing the longitudinal and transverse seams should be observed. Several times it is necessary to check the evenness of corners and horizontal surfaces with the immediate elimination of the identified deviations.

Features of the interior decoration of the house from foam blocks

The main feature of the interior decoration of walls made of foam blocks is the undesirable performance of wet processes, because the water absorption of this material should be no more than 12% of its own volume. For this reason, the walls are very poorly plastered, and preference is given to finishing materials installed on frame structures. Most popular options:

  • plastic panels;
  • plasterboard (GKL) sheets;
  • gypsum fiber sheets (GVL).

All these materials require their installation on wooden or aluminum frames. The surface of GKL and GVL requires finishing with putty and subsequent application of decorative material (wallpaper, paint, textured plaster). In addition, wall surfaces in rooms with high humidity must be provided with a vapor barrier so that excess liquid does not accumulate in the foam blocks and does not lead to their premature destruction.

In the bathroom, for example, a vapor barrier film is pre-attached to the wall, and on top of it - frame structure made of gypsum-fiber sheets, on which you can glue ceramic tiles. By using different ways interior decoration of the premises can be given a unique and inimitable design.

Video: foam concrete blocks - pros and cons

The construction of any house must be treated responsibly, especially if the work is carried out on their own. Before they start, it is advisable to develop a project, calculate and purchase the required amount of building materials, prepare a tool and study in detail all stages of construction. A house made of foam blocks is not difficult to erect, but it is very important to follow the sequence of all work and steadily follow the technologies so that the structure meets the requirements for strength, stability and durability.

The construction of houses from foam blocks is developed in many parts of the country. Such a building material has a number of undeniable advantages, but it has some features. All these problems must be considered before building a house from foam blocks.

Walls built from foam blocks have fire safety, high strength and excellent heat and sound insulation.

The use of foam blocks can significantly reduce construction costs. The ease of processing and the speed of their installation incline many to the use of this building material. The question itself, how, is not more difficult than when building walls from other materials.

The choice of foam blocks for construction

Foam blocks are foamed concrete, cut into blocks of the desired size. The basis of the material is a mixture of cement and sand, in which, with the help of a special substance, air pores are formed, evenly distributed throughout the volume. Unlike aerated concrete, where the pores are filled with gas, only air is present in foam concrete, which ensures its environmental friendliness.

When choosing foam blocks, it should be borne in mind that they are produced different sizes and with varying degrees of porosity. The latter characteristic leads to a difference in mechanical strength and thermal insulation properties. An increase in the number of air pores in the thickness of the block leads to a decrease specific gravity material, reducing compressive strength and increasing thermal insulation parameters.

The brand of the foam block indicates the value of the density that determines the air content; for example, brand D600 - the foam block has a density of 600 kg / m³. By density, it is customary to divide foam blocks into the following types: heat-insulating (up to 500 kg / m³), ​​structural and heat-insulating (500-900 kg / m³) and structural foam blocks (1000-1200 kg / km³). Accordingly, their purpose is also determined - for load-bearing walls it is necessary to use foam blocks not lower than D900, and for partitions D400 is enough.

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Features of the use of foam concrete

The choice of brand of material and the thickness of the wall is determined by the climatic features of the area where the house is being built from foam blocks. External load-bearing walls should be built from structural blocks that have low thermal insulation properties. This requires laying a second layer of thermal insulation blocks. Therefore, in areas with a cold climate, the outer walls should be at least two-layered; at the same time, one layer of blocks can be dispensed with for the south.

Porous concretes have a rather low resistance to alternating and periodic vertical loads. This condition requires the strengthening of areas where such loads are possible. In places of installation of wall ceilings, door and window openings, it is necessary to manufacture reinforcing belts or strong lintels.

The penetration of water into the air pores significantly reduces all the main advantages of foam blocks. This necessitates reliable external waterproofing of the walls. For walls made of foam blocks, external plaster is required with the addition of special waterproofing compounds.

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Step-by-step instructions: building a foundation

For the foundation of a house made of foam blocks, a foundation pit is dug with a depth of 80-170 cm, taking into account the depth of winter freezing of the earth. The dimensions of the pit are selected with a margin of 60-100 cm on each side for the convenience of making the foundation. A pillow under the foundation of sand and fine gravel up to 30 cm thick is filled up and compacted at the bottom of the pit. Then a frame is assembled from reinforcement with a diameter of up to 15 mm. The reinforcing frame of the foundation consists of vertical and horizontal rods. The distance between the vertical bars of the reinforcement is 1-1.5 m. It is advisable to grab the reinforcement by welding.

Then, formwork is assembled on both sides of the reinforcing frame for pouring the solution. The formwork is made of wooden or plywood boards. A distance of 30-80 cm is set between the formwork panels, depending on the thickness of the wall. The height of the formwork is at least 70 cm. The side panels of the formwork must be parallel to each other, and fastened with jumpers in the upper part.

For pouring the foundation, a concrete mortar is used, mixed in the proportion: 1 part of M500 cement to 3 parts of sand with fine gravel. The cement-sand mixture is mixed with water to a thick consistency. Filling is done in the following order. A layer of cement mortar is poured onto the sand cushion (cement with sand in a ratio of 1: 4 without adding crushed stone). After that, the main concrete solution is poured.

Filling is carried out in layers (each layer is about a third of the height of the foundation) around the entire perimeter of the house with the obligatory compaction of the mass using a vibrator or bayonet shovel. The drying time of the foundation is 7-10 days, after which the formwork is dismantled, and the gap between the foundation and the soil is filled with earth. If the reinforcement sticks out of the foundation surface, then it must be cut off.

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Foam block walls

Building a house from foam blocks means, first of all, building walls from this material. The construction of the wall begins with leveling the surface of the foundation. To do this, first, using the level, the horizontalness of the surface is checked. Then the foundation is leveled with cement mortar. 1-2 layers of roofing material are applied over the foundation to ensure waterproofing of the basement layer of the wall. Sheets of roofing material are laid with overlap.

Scheme of laying foam concrete with horizontal diaphragms: A - brick diaphragms; B - diaphragms made of foam concrete and reinforced steel.

Produced on a special glue for foam blocks. It is possible to use cement-sand or cement-sand-lime mortar. A layer of glue is applied to the surface of the previous layer and to the bottom surface of the block. The construction of the wall begins with the laying of corner blocks to a height of 3-5 blocks. The block laying system depends on the thickness of the wall. With a single-layer wall, the blocks are laid in one row with the long side along the wall.

If a two-layer wall is provided, then laying can be carried out in two ways: two identical parallel layers or interlaced laying, when a block is laid transversely through 3-5 longitudinally laid blocks. The binding of the rows should exclude the coincidence of the seams between the blocks in two adjacent rows. This is achieved by the fact that the first row begins with a longitudinally laid block, and the second row - from the end of the block of a perpendicular wall. This ensures the displacement of blocks relative to each other in adjacent rows.

Precise laying of the first row is very important for the quality of the entire wall. To control the masonry line, it is necessary to stretch the cord along the future wall between the corner blocks. When laying the blocks, they are tightly installed on the glue and pressed by hand. If necessary, you can use a mallet with a rubber layer. The horizontality of each layer is checked by a level. The entire thickness of the wall is formed at once. If surface defects are found during the laying of a row, they must be immediately eliminated.

The increase in strength is achieved by reinforcement. Reinforcement is made with reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm. The first laying of reinforcement is carried out on top of the first row of foam blocks. To do this, two parallel channels 40x40 mm in size are cut out on the surface of the blocks in the direction along the wall. Channels are formed around the entire perimeter of the house. Reinforcement is placed in the channels, then the laying of the next row of blocks continues. Reinforcement is laid every 4-5 rows.

Overlapping door and window openings in the wall must be strengthened. To do this, steel corners with a size of at least 80x80 mm are installed above the openings. The corner is installed on both sides of the wall and should exceed the width of the opening by about 60 cm in length. Sometimes a reinforced concrete beam is used.

The top of the wall should end with a reinforcing belt, on which the ceiling will be installed.

Such a belt is usually made of reinforced concrete beams or steel channels.

Reinforcing elements are fixed with anchor bolts.

When choosing a material for the external and internal walls of residential buildings, foam concrete blocks are considered as budget option. Their working and operational characteristics cannot be attributed to universal ones, but taking into account all the features at the preparation stage, you can quickly get a reliable, warm and non-shrink building. The prices for the construction of such houses are 14,000 rubles / m2 for a box and from 19,000 for turnkey construction. The dimensions and weight of the blocks allow you to carry out the laying on your own, the same applies to most of the other stages, but the design and drawing up of the reinforcement scheme is entrusted to specialists.

Foam concrete is valued for its lightness, fire safety, good thermal insulation properties and ability to absorb noise, lack of deformation and shrinkage processes. The main advantages include an acceptable price for the products themselves, the simplicity of their laying and finishing. With the correct calculation of the walls and the exclusion of cold bridges, it does not need additional insulation. If necessary, the latter (due to living in a harsh climate zone, for example) the thickness of the outer layer of the heat insulator will be minimal. The material allows the walls to breathe, there are no toxins in its composition, as a result, its use provides a good microclimate in the house.

Design considerations include low tensile strength, the need for protection from external moisture, and good permeability due to the cellular structure. Foam concrete blocks are optimal in low-rise construction, to ensure reliable operation structures are reinforced: longitudinally through 2-3 rows and in areas with high loads: openings, a belt for tying a Mauerlat or mounting floor beams. Durability is 50-70 years, performance largely depends on the quality of production. The last factor is considered the main drawback, checking the certificate when buying material is a mandatory step.

Brief description of projects


A simple house made of foam blocks with an attic and a garage, if desired, is added to the scheme glazed terrace. The main advantage is compactness: on a limited 68 m2 rectangular plot there is a spacious living room, kitchen, 2 bedrooms, separate bathroom and toilet. The attached 3×7 garage is designed for parking one car, the attic space above it is used as a utility room. natural light on attic floor provided by slanted windows in pitched roof and vertical on the pediment. The house is designed for a permanent stay of a family of 3-4 people.

Another traditional project of a two-story block house with separate areas for joint and individual pastime. On the ground floor there is a spacious living room with a fireplace, combined with a dining room, a kitchen with a multifaceted glazed bay window, utility rooms. The attic includes three separate bedrooms (if desired, any of them can be converted into an office or studio) and a bathroom, a garage is not provided. The interior is made in classical style, external attractiveness is enhanced by protruding windows (the total glazing area is large) and a wide single-flight staircase in a spacious hall.

The project of a cottage made of foam blocks with an attached garage and an attic, the total usable area is 140 m2. The shape is complex, it includes protruding bay windows and roofs of various slopes. On the ground floor there is a bathroom, a kitchen, a dining room and a walk-through spacious living room. A two-flight staircase leads to the second floor, this area is designed for relaxation, it contains 2 bedrooms and a bathroom. The cottage can be used as a summer country house, and for permanent residence The garage can accommodate 1 car.

How and on what can you save?

An economy class house made of foam blocks costs the future owner 20-30% cheaper compared to a similar brick building. The design includes a stable monolithic foundation (the type and depth of laying depend on the soil parameters), a reinforced box, floor partitions and truss system. To reduce total value costs are recommended:

1. Take into account all operating conditions at the stage of preparing a house project, draw up a work schedule, calculate the exact amount of building materials and purchase them in bulk.

2. If possible, replace concrete interfloor ceilings wooden beams. Compared to reinforced concrete factory slabs, they are inexpensive, but their admissibility is determined by the calculation.

3. Use foam blocks for masonry with high accuracy of geometric shapes and sizes, otherwise the consumption of glue and finishing requirements increase. The quality of products is checked even before purchase: when applied to each other, they should not form gaps or be painted, the cells have a closed structure and spherical shape, their diameter does not exceed 1-3 mm, the color on the surface and on the fracture is the same and uniform, there is no yellowness. For the construction of load-bearing walls, a grade of at least D600 is required, the minimum allowable thickness is 300 mm, but on internal partitions you can save money - 100 mm of masonry is enough.

4. Abandon the basement.

5. Replace the second floor with an attic located above the attic. The same solution is offered if you need to obtain more premises during construction in a limited space. There is an unspoken rule: with an equal total area, the project one-story house less justified than a two-story one, the budget is considered to pay off when it exceeds more than 100 m2. But at the same time, we must not forget about the restriction on the number of storeys - the permissible maximum is 3, ignoring this rule leads to an unjustified increase in the cost of armored belts and laying the foundation.

6. With a limited budget, abandon complex architectural forms - terraces, bay windows, balconies, turrets. The same rule applies to roofing systems, the simplest and most affordable option is a gable roof.

7. Do the work on your own. The cost of a turnkey finished house (but without interior decoration and wiring) when contacting construction companies is at least 19,000 rubles per 1 m2, self-laying and cladding reduces costs by a third.

Design Considerations

Houses and cottages are built according to a standard or individual plan. Finished project it is inexpensive (within 20,000-30,000 rubles), but it does not take into account all the conditions of construction and operation. Coordination of special requirements takes a lot of time, it takes at least 1.5 months to prepare such documentation. In any case, take into account:

1. The seismic activity of the region, when building in the zone of movement of tectonic plates, the requirements for the stability of the foundation and the prices for masonry increase, at high risks, foam blocks are replaced by other building materials.

2. Climatic conditions: average annual precipitation, humidity and air temperature. These parameters are taken into account in the thermal calculation of the thickness external walls, when determining the total weight loads and choosing the material and method of finishing. During construction in regions with an average daily air temperature in winter below -20 ° C, roof insulation is required.

3. Geological parameters of the site: the type and degree of soil homogeneity, the depth of groundwater, the level of freezing. The initial data are the results of the analysis of the state of the soil, ideally carried out during the period of maximum precipitation and the rise of ground moisture - in spring or autumn.

If there is a risk of flooding, it is better to build a house from foam blocks without a basement or underground floor, the cost of waterproofing and drainage will be unreasonably high.

4. Construction budget. With limited funds, the simplest project is chosen, without protrusions and. The less complex forms will be laid, the more reliable the house. This is due to the low resistance of blocks to tensile loads; only specialists can achieve their uniform distribution with an asymmetric arrangement of structures.

5. The need for energy saving. One of the main advantages is the possibility of building residential buildings without additional insulation, even with single-layer masonry. In practice, many factors influence the amount of energy consumption: from the area of ​​​​glazing to the location of the rooms. If the main priority is energy efficiency, then smaller windows are laid in the project, all outbuildings are placed on the north side. In the case of an emphasis on external attractiveness, protruding glazed bay windows, verandas and balconies are added to the house plan, respectively, the cost of turnkey construction and heating of buildings increase.