Finishing a steam room with your own hands requires a special approach, since the materials used for this must withstand not only high humidity, but also peak temperatures. In addition, the aesthetic design of the premises should create a special favorable atmosphere that promotes psychological relief and physical relaxation.
In order for the sauna steam room to meet all the needs of its visitors, according to all possible parameters, it is recommended to think over and draw up a plan for decorating the room in advance.
Basic principles and stages of steam room equipment
If the structure of the bath has already been erected, the premises have been distributed, and each of them is known, then, based on this data, you can start creating a project. It would be better to make several options for a particular room so that there is a choice between three ÷ four interiors.
After it has been determined the most optimal option, it will become possible, focusing on the size of the room, to calculate the amount of necessary building and finishing materials for decorating the walls of the steam room, arranging shelves, for paro-, hydro - and thermal insulation of walls.
In addition, you will immediately need to decide on the lighting system. It should be safe and bright enough to create a special mood in the dark room of the steam room, conducive to relaxation.
All construction and finishing activities are carried out in a certain sequence, which should not be violated, otherwise it is possible that you will have to redo all the work.
- First thing installed all electrical wiring. In the planned places of installation of fixtures, wires are passed through the entire system of insulation and waterproofing, as well as through the lining.
- The next step is the crate on the walls and ceiling, and the first layer of vapor barrier material is fixed to it.
- Then a place is determined for the installation of the furnace - it will be finished using a special technology and a little later.
- Further, the location of the ventilation system is marked, a hole for the chimney is prepared in the wall or ceiling.
- The next step is to install insulation between the bars of the crate. Usually, stone or basalt wool is chosen for the bath, which reacts less than others to elevated temperatures and humidity.
- Further, the second layer of the vapor barrier membrane is stretched on top of the insulation.
- It is fixed on top of it, or one of the other reflective materials is selected.
- Then settles down place for installation of the furnace - base and walls.
- The rest of the floor is laid out with ceramic tiles or, if desired, covered with wooden flooring.
- The next step is to install the door frame and the door itself.
- Next, the steam room is sheathed wooden clapboard- first the ceiling, and then the walls.
- Then the installation of shelves, other elements of bath equipment is carried out, lamps are installed.
Video: a few sketches of possible options for steam room equipment
This was the general sequence of work. Now about these stages - in more detail.
Step-by-step finishing of the steam room
Electrical part
Electric cables are fixed on the wall under insulation and vapor barrier. The cable must be solid throughout, must not have terminal or solder joints, and even more so - twists. After finishing the finishing, the connection points of the lighting fixtures must be very well insulated.
Lighting devices are distributed evenly throughout the room - it can be the illumination of the ceiling, shelves or corner areas. Any lamp must be equipped with a special hermetic cover that will protect the lamp from moisture. If ordinary unprotected lamps are used in the steam room for lighting, they will fail very quickly. It is also quite likely that a short circuit will occur when moisture gets inside the device, and this is fraught with very serious consequences.
The cable is fixed on the wall using special holders or placed in a box, which will create additional protection from the aggressive environment of the steam room.
Sometimes small windows are arranged in the walls of the steam room for lighting, but you need to remember that they will always help speed up the process of cooling the air in the room. So if the window is still planned, then it should be completely small size, no more than 300 × 500 mm, and be sure to close hermetically. The best option in this case would be to install a miniature with double-glazed windows.
Installation of the electrical part of the steam room is not particularly difficult, if professional electrician. If the master making the sheathing in the bath is far from this line of work, then it is best to invite a person who knows exactly how this is done to perform them.
Installation of battens on walls and ceilings
The crate on the walls can be mounted vertically or horizontally, and on the ceiling along or across - this moment depends on the chosen direction of the lining.
The crate is made of wooden bars, which should have a thickness equal to the thickness insulation material.
The location of the elements of the crate (the interval between adjacent guides) is calculated based on the width of the insulation. The bars are placed at a distance that will be 20 ÷ 40 mm less than the size of the insulation material, since the thermal insulator should be as tight as possible.
To protect the crate, walls and ceiling from moisture, as well as the formation of condensate, a vapor barrier membrane is fixed to the bars and the surfaces between them, which will allow the insulation layer to “breathe”.
Determination of a place for the furnace
The "central element" of the steam room is always, therefore, having arranged a crate on the walls, it is necessary to determine the location of the heater and the size of the area under it. Usually the oven is installed about outer wall, so it's easiest to bring the chimney through the wall to the street without damaging attic floor and roofs.
However, it is quite possible to install a traditional vertical pipe that runs through the entire construction of the bath. For her, they arrange a specially designed hole in the ceiling, conduct it through the attic, and then pass it through the roof and close the gaps between the pipe and roofing material waterproofing. This option is more difficult in the installation of the chimney, but if you choose it, you can significantly save space in the steam room due to the indentation from the wall.
Having calculated and marked the platform for the heater, you can proceed to planning the ventilation openings.
Openings for ventilation and chimney
Already at the very first stages of the formation of an insulating "pie", it is necessary to immediately indicate the location of the ventilation and chimney openings. Their location directly depends on where the stove will be installed. Since the place has already been determined, you need to refer to the ventilation device diagram. There may be several ventilation openings, but always, one of the windows is at a height of 300 ÷ 400 mm from the floor, and the second is 150 ÷ 200 mm below the ceiling.
The lower ventilation window will be located next to or behind the stove, and the upper one on the opposite wall under the ceiling.
Therefore, in these places it is necessary to arrange through holes, and temporarily set a segment in them plastic pipe or wooden bars to take them into account when installing other layers of insulation and finishing facing. A special publication of our portal is devoted to the problems.
The hole for the chimney can be made in the ceiling, as mentioned above, or in the wall. For him, as well as for ventilation, they arrange a passage through all layers of insulation. If a hole is made in the wall, a pipe of the desired diameter is also temporarily installed in it. Subsequently, the chimney will need to be separated from combustible surfaces with heat-resistant gaskets.
More details from - in a separate special article of our portal.
Insulation installation
Installation of insulation material is first made on the ceiling. If necessary, it is temporarily fixed with a thin, but strong rope, which is fixed with a stapler on the crate.
On top of the insulation is covered with another layer vapor barrier membranes. It can be replaced with foil film, or you can use them in combination.
The advantage of using foil is that it has the ability to reflect heat inward, thus keeping it indoors as much as possible and not allowing the walls to cool.
These layers are stretched and fixed to the walls and ceiling with an overlap, which should be at least 200 mm, and fixed to the crate with brackets using a stapler.
Then the joints of the individual canvases are glued with waterproof foil tape.
The slats of the counter-lattice will help to finalize the insulating “pie” Quite thin layers are often fixed on top of these layers. wooden slats(elements of the so-called counter-lattice), which will more securely fix these materials on the main crate.
Prices for thermal insulation materials
Thermal insulation materials
Arrangement of walls and floors at the installation site of the stove-heater
Before installing in place, it is necessary to expand the hole designed to bring the chimney to the street and equip it with a heat-resistant gasket that will protect combustible walls from overheating. If the bath is built of brick or stone, then the pipe can be removed without preliminary preparation of the hole.
After carrying out these works, the walls are finished with reliable non-combustible material. Most often they are sheathed with asbestos slabs, in which a hole is made in the right place and combined with a hole for the pipe.
The walls can then be tiled with wall-mounted ceramic tiles, for example with imitation natural stone or burnt brick.
The base for the heater must be raised above the rest of the steam room floor by 200 ÷ 250 mm, so it is used porcelain stoneware or thick floor tiles.
After that, the rest of the floor surface is laid out - either a high-quality flat board is suitable for this. Traditionally, wood flooring is used for the steam room floor, but tiles will last longer.
By the way, if from ceramic tiles is being done decorative coating, then it is easy to install special removable wooden gratings on it.
Prices the lineup floor tiles
Floor tile
Door frame installation and door trim
Next, it is necessary to carry out measures to install the door frame and. This is done before the wall cladding, so that it is possible to close the fasteners and the closed gaps between the walls and the box with a clapboard.
A poorly fitted door and its poor-quality installation can cause a room to cool down, so you need to foresee and take into account some points that will help avoid heat leakage:
- The door should open outwards, not towards the steam room.
- On the door, from its outer side, special slats are fixed, which will protrude beyond the perimeter of the door leaf by 20 ÷ 30 mm. When closed, they will bridge the gaps between the frame and the door, fitting snugly against the jamb.
- The threshold is made 100 ÷ 120 mm above the floor surface.
- During installation, the gaps between the box and the wall opening are hermetically sealed.
- You can install a wide baguette of the door trim from the inside of the steam room, thereby creating an additional obstacle to the penetration of cold inside.
- It is very important that the door is a reliable keeper of hot air and steam inside the steam room. Therefore, the door is often first sheathed with heat-insulating material and only then decorated with clapboard.
Very often in Lately to create the tightness of the room, they use metal-plastic door options, and although this is not at all traditional for Russian steam rooms, it must be said that they work efficiently. Moreover, it is quite possible to order decorative trim metal-plastic construction wooden lining. Moreover, it is even recommended to do so that the metal on the door does not overheat.
Decorative ceiling and wall cladding and completion
To cover the steam room, you need to choose the “right” tree that will create a healthy atmosphere inside the room - it can be oak or linden, larch or cedar. Particularly resinous species of coniferous trees, such as pine, are absolutely not suitable. The latter, when heated, can release resin drops, which can even accidentally burn you.
Start covering from the ceiling. The lining is installed on the crate according to the "groove-thorn" system, and fastened with the help of special metal holders (kleimers). It is in them that nails or staples are hammered, then becoming invisible, since To the leimer is covered with a spike of the next lining panel.
Having installed the lining on the ceiling, they proceed to work on the walls. Sheathing goes in parallel with the installation of shelves and is carried out in a certain sequence:
- First, using a level and a marker, the surface of the walls is marked. The stepped design of the shelves is placed in two or three levels, depending on the height of the ceiling of the room.
- It is necessary to determine at what height the shelves will be located, their width and configuration. The width of the shelves usually varies from 400 to 600 mm, depending on what size of these elements allows you to make the area of the steam room. The bottom shelf must be arranged no lower than 400 ÷ 500 mm from the floor.
- Further, the material is prepared - the boards and bars prepared for the manufacture of shelves, as well as lining panels, are sawn.
- It is also necessary to have a special device (measurement), which will be measured gaps between boardswhich seats are assembled and side walls shelves
- If necessary, additional bars are attached to the wall, which will form a reliable base for the shelves.
- When installing the lining, you must not forget to drill holes in the right places to bring the electric cable out, as well as cut openings for installing ventilation doors or other devices.
- The next step is to install the lining on the walls under the frame for the shelves, it is fixed in the same way as on the ceiling.
- Next, the side and front of the shelves are sheathed, while not forgetting to measure the distance between the sheathing boards. Such gaps are necessary for the free circulation of air in any direction, as well as for the speedy drying of the wood after the next “session” of using the bath.
- Sheathing boards are fixed above the frame bar exactly to the thickness of the boards from which the seat of the element will be assembled.
- Next, a seat is assembled, the boards of which are also fixed at a certain distance, which is controlled by a measure. The boards are fixed on slats laid perpendicular to them, having a thickness of 8-10 mm, then they are laid and screwed to the stepped structure.
- After laying the seat, a lining is installed on the wall, which is located behind and above the seat.
- When the shelves are mounted, and a lining is fixed around them on the surface of the walls, the remaining walls are sheathed.
Before the final lining of the clapboard on the walls, there should be such a “pie” Prices for lining, timber imitation, block house
Clapboard, timber imitation, block house
- The penultimate stage in the design of the steam room is the consolidation and floor plinths. If necessary, these elements are installed in corner connections. It should be noted that these trim parts are used only in last resort if the lining at the junctions of the planes is adjusted inaccurately. However, it must be remembered that it is better to do without them, since moisture will accumulate in the gaps between the baseboards and the main skin, which over time will contribute to the emergence of fungal or mold colonies.
At the end of the work, ventilation doors are installed and lighting. It is important to remember that the wire connections to the fixtures must be carefully insulated.
After the installation of lamps and shades, electrical cables are connected to the power supply and switches, which are recommended to be provided outside the steam room.
The last step is to install the furnace and connect it to the chimney.
Seen: a visual lesson on the equipment and decoration of the steam room
In the presence ofinstructions for the process of finishing the steam room, necessary tools and high-quality materials, such work can be done independently. However, I would like to remind you that electrical work it is recommended to entrust to a specialist who will make reliable insulation of all luminaire connections, as well as professionally perform cable connections to the power supply system.
Something similar can be noted about the system for removing combustion products from the furnace. The chimney also "does not like" the amateurish approach, because often the safety of the building, the health and even the life of the owners of the bathhouse will depend on the quality of the work performed.
Building a bath is only half the job. After the construction is completed, it is necessary to proceed with the decoration. Interior decoration performs not only an aesthetic function. It includes a whole range of functions for the protection of walls, floors, ceilings. It is also necessary to make bath furniture to complete the interior of the room. To perform the work, you can invite a team of specialists. However, if there is a desire and some knowledge in this area, everything can be done independently. In the article we will tell you how to make the interior decoration of the bath with your own hands, show photo and video instructions.
Interior decoration begins with the choice of material. Most often, a tree is used for this. But not everyone wood material fit. This is especially true when it comes to the steam room, where there will always be high temperatures and high humidity.
Some materials release substances hazardous to health at high temperatures.
- Pine. Pine wood releases resins at high temperatures. These substances can be hazardous to the health of people who bathe in the bath. Therefore, in no case should pine boards be used.
- Fiberboard and chipboard. These materials release toxins and can lead to poisoning. Plus, they swell.
- Linoleum. It is not used for the same reason. He highlights harmful substances, rots and collapses.
What can not be used in the steam room is perfect for the dressing room and rest room. It is best to finish the dressing room with pine. Wood will give a pleasant aroma to the room and make it possible to enjoy a real Russian bath.
The lining made of linden and larch is best suited for finishing the steam room.
For a steam room, it is better to use larch. This is a very durable material that will last for years. It does not collapse from high temperatures and humidity. Another good option for a steam room is linden.
It is better to use wood in the form of lining. The panels are easy to install, "breathe" and can be easily replaced. Lining is an ideal finishing material, especially when you consider that a heat-insulating layer will be located under the finish.
Finishing process
Before you make the interior decoration of the bath, you need to understand the intricacies of the process. Finishing wood and brick bath produced in almost the same way.
Work starts from the bottom up: from the floor to the ceiling.
- The floor is laid first. It is not recommended to use oak boards here, they are very slippery. Better apply edged board larches. It is better to raise the floor in the steam room by ten centimeters to ensure heat retention.
- The shelves must be raised above the level of the oven by 10-15 cm.
- After that, you need to sheathe the walls. The lining is installed on the crate.
- When the walls are decorated, you can start working on the ceiling.
- Finishing is completed, now it is necessary to proceed with the installation of various equipment and furniture for the bath. All this can be bought.
Advantages
Linden lining is a rather expensive material. However, it is best to choose it for finishing the steam room. Linden lining has a number of advantages, it:
- resistant to moisture and temperatures;
- "breathes";
- looks aesthetically pleasing;
- durable;
- smells good.
clapboard
- Before starting work, the surfaces must be carefully leveled. If they are uneven, then the lining will turn out to be “waves”.
- The material must be brought and left for one or two days to adapt to the microclimate.
- Work begins with the installation of lathing. To do this, you need slats, which must be installed at a distance of 70 cm from each other. The outermost rails are attached first. The work uses a plumb line and a level. Self-tapping screws must be taken galvanized or stainless, because ordinary ones will very quickly collapse from corrosion. If the walls in the room are perfectly even, then you can try to install the lining without the crate. It is fastened with screws or special brackets directly to the wall. However, if there is no confidence in the evenness of the walls, then it is better not to risk it.
- After installing the crate, you can begin the installation of the lining. This is a very simple process, it is accessible even to a beginner. The work is carried out using fasteners that are resistant to corrosion and high temperatures. This is the most easy way for novice masters who are interested in how to decorate a bath inside without special knowledge.
The need for vapor barrier
Bath - a place where there is always high humidity. However, a number of materials are perfectly ventilated. The question naturally arises, is it necessary to put a vapor barrier here? It all depends on what materials were used in the construction of the structure and in its decoration.
If a lining is installed, and the bath itself is wooden, then the vapor barrier may be redundant. The walls "breathe" so well. In brick structures, you will most likely have to install a vapor barrier. However, if the design provides good ventilation, you can do without it. The question of installing a vapor barrier is individual, and only the master can solve it.
Tile
Tiles are an inexpensive and practical material. True, it is better not to use it in the steam room, but in the washing and dressing room it will be just right. This material does not need to be replaced for a long period of time. The tile does not collapse from moisture and high temperatures, it does not rot and does not require maintenance.
There are several varieties of bath tiles, but there are two main types.
- Glazed (enamelled).
- Unenamelled.
For a bath, a glazed type of tile would be an ideal choice. Such material is the most resistant to various influences. Non-enameled tiles do not tolerate temperature changes that occur constantly in the bath.
When choosing a tile, it is better to focus on those samples that have a rough surface. This will prevent slips and falls.
Leaning against the wall, it is better to be sure that it will not cause slipping. Therefore, not only the tiles on the floor should be rough, but also the tiles on the walls.
It is necessary to pay attention to what kind of base the tile has. It's better if it's smooth. A porous base can cause the spread of fungus.
As for the shape, the tiles are produced as traditionally squares and rectangles, as well as asterisks. Found among varieties and complex structures. It is better for a beginner to take a rectangular tile, as it fits very simply.
When buying, you need to know exactly how much material is needed. In this case, you need to buy 5-10% more tiles than required. After all, it is a very brittle material.
- First, the tiles are soaked in water for a few minutes. This technique will save the master a decent amount of glue. The fact is that dry tiles will absorb adhesive, while wet tiles will not.
- Laying tiles begins with the most noticeable corner in the room. In order to determine it, you need to look at the interior of the bath from the entrance.
- Tile adhesive is applied to the surface. After the tile is put in place, you need to besiege its edges with a mallet. To apply glue, you will need a special spatula-"comb".
- Spacers must be placed between tiles.
- When the glue is completely dry, it remains to wipe the seams.
The tile looks great both on the floor and on the walls. The tiled mosaic looks especially beautiful. In some cases, the tiles need to be cut. It's not very difficult if you have a cutting tool. After the completion of the work, it remains only to choose furniture for the bath.
Bath is an amazing place for relaxation and recuperation. Therefore, it should be not only hot, but also comfortable. Each owner strives to give his bathhouse an attractive appearance both outside and inside. In this article, we bring to your attention a few tips on how to equip, the interior decoration of which is no less important than the construction itself.
So, if you are planning to do the interior decoration of the bath yourself, then this article will come in handy for you. Here you will find both professional instructions for different types of finishes, and step by step photos important finishing works, And detailed videos that will help you solve your tasks at the highest level. Our advice will help you stick to the principles construction technologies when performing cladding, sheathing, etc.
Finishing inside the bath is the most important stage of construction. Its quality and level of performance determine not only the aesthetic characteristics of the bath, but also the atmosphere of coziness and comfort, the degree of convenience. In addition, the materials used for finishing directly affect the creation of a special microclimate in the bath and its medicinal properties. The main task of finishing is to make your stay in the bathhouse as pleasant, comfortable and useful as possible.
A modern Russian bath involves the presence of several rooms:
- vestibule;
- steam room;
- washing.
If you have built a large bath, then it is quite possible to equip it extra room recreation, billiard room, kitchen area, playground, swimming pool and much more. Theoretically, you can plan and build any bath, equipped with everything that you think is necessary and useful. However, this does not affect the basic defining requirements for the bath:
- all rooms should have an attractive and practical design;
- in the steam room there should be hot and pleasant steam;
- in the washing should be comfortable and safe.
Finishing has a big impact on the functionality of the bath. Even if you used high-quality material for construction, which does not require mandatory interior decoration, it still needs to be done in the bath. Properly selected materials will allow you to create optimal conditions For comfortable rest, as well as significantly extend the life of walls, floors, ceilings. Materials are selected in accordance with the purpose and characteristics of a particular room. How best to finish the steam room, washing, vestibule, read below.
When planning the finishing of a steam room, take into account the following features of this room:
- The constant presence of heated steam coming in a concentrated and dense stream;
- Temperature fluctuations, heating to high temperatures;
- High level humidity.
The conditions in the steam room are, one might say, extreme. Many materials are simply not designed for use in such an environment. However, the modern widest range of finishing materials makes it possible to choose the option that will best meet even such harsh conditions. We recommend paying attention to the sheathing board. Its characteristics must meet the following requirements:
- Low heat capacity, the ability to quickly warm up and not accumulate heat;
- moisture resistance;
- High aesthetic characteristics;
- Pleasant smell, no tar when heated;
- Resistance to fungus and mold;
- Air purification.
Today, there are several classes of lining:
- C-class. Differs in low cost. But for finishing the bath, its characteristics are not high enough.
- B-class. Such material may have contrasting spots, cracks, minor damage, resin pockets. This class includes material on which, for every 1.5 m of length, there are no more than four knots;
- A-class. May have shallow cracks. There should be no cores in the cut. No more than one knot per 1.5 m of length is allowed on each panel.
- Premium class. The highest quality and corresponding cost. The color is uniform, cores and knots are absent.
The most common profiles are eurolining, thorn-groove, Softline, Calm.
Linden lining shows excellent results as an interior finish for a bath. Its density is quite low, due to which it does not heat up very much in the steam room. However, it does not emit tar. Linden panels provide excellent sound insulation.
And also lining from other types of wood is suitable for solving this problem. For example, cedar and aspen have proven themselves well.
When choosing one or another material for sheathing, carefully inspect the panels. The wood must be dry, well-treated, and free of nicks, knots, and other obvious defects. A high-quality material must meet these requirements, and only it will provide an aesthetic, reliable, durable finish.
Additional processing by special means does not require the material for sheathing the steam room. Do not use antifungal, antiseptic compounds or paints and varnishes. All these products are harmful to humans, and when heated, they will begin to actively release their wood, making bath procedures more dangerous than useful.
Before proceeding with lining the clapboard, the steam room must be insulated. An affordable and time-tested material that is suitable for this purpose is mineral wool. It is the most sought after in this area. Another option, no less effective, is basalt wool. It successfully copes with the effects of high temperatures, so it will last a little longer than mineral wool. But if we talk about the ideal insulation for a steam room, then one cannot but recall the cork agglomerate. Among its advantages are hypoallergenicity, resistance to fungi and rot, fire resistance.
The floor in the steam room should be pleasant to the touch, non-slip, not cold and not too hot.
The washing room is designed not only to take a shower and wash yourself properly at a comfortable temperature. The washroom should have a place to relax, so you can leave the steam room for a while, pamper yourself with massages, face and body masks and other relaxing and enjoyable treatments. It is necessary to think over all these possibilities before starting finishing work, and even better - at the construction stage.
In any case, the choice of finishing materials should be carried out taking into account all these functions of the washing room. The best option is wood or ceramic tiles. If for a steam room you can choose among hardwood wood, then only conifers are suitable for washing - pine, spruce, larch. It is very easy to explain this choice. Softwood resinous and highly water-repellent. Therefore, under washing conditions, it will perform better than hardwood, and will last for many years, while maintaining a pleasant appearance.
Particular attention should be paid to the selection of material for finishing floors in the washing room. The main qualities of the finished floor in this room - comfortable temperature and anti-slip properties. To achieve this result, the base for the floor is made of concrete, and ceramic tiles are laid out on it. In order to prevent strong slipping, put on the ceramic floor wooden pallets or removable joists. After each visit to the bath, they are taken out into the air to dry. However, the floor in the washroom can be completely wooden, but ceramic tile as the main finish is a more practical and durable option. She copes well with an abundance of water, various cosmetics, shampoo, etc.
A high level of humidity is maintained in all areas of the bath. This the most important aspect, which must be considered when choosing finishing materials. For the vestibule and other rooms, you can use any type of wood. But don't limit yourself to wood. For high-quality and stylish decoration of the vestibule, rest room and other bath rooms other materials are also suitable:
- Porcelain stoneware;
- Plaster;
- Natural stone;
- fiberglass wallpaper;
- Majolica.
Various combinations of these materials open up wide possibilities for aesthetic and practical decoration of the baths. For example, a combination of natural stone and wood looks very solid and beautiful. Do-it-yourself bath will allow you to translate non-standard creative ideas into reality. The interior decoration, the photo of which is presented on this page, will help you choose optimal materials and their combinations.
The ceiling of the bath must withstand high temperature loads, as well as cope with the flow of hot wet steam. Do not forget about the need to protect the floors from heat and steam with the help of heat and vapor barrier materials. For this purpose, you can purchase building membranes or aluminum foil. If you put them hermetically, then their effectiveness will be equally high. It is not recommended to perform vapor barrier with foil with a layer of cotton wool, because this material has a thinner thickness, so it is much more difficult to work with it during the sheathing process. The same applies to foil with a layer of polypropylene foam. This material, when exposed to high temperatures, releases substances toxic to humans, therefore it is unsuitable for use in bath rooms.
Each joint of the vapor barrier and thermal insulation is glued with aluminum tape to ensure complete tightness. Sometimes, when performing work, the material is pierced, torn, etc. If this happens, then the hole formed in the material must be immediately sealed with aluminum tape, because later you may simply not remember about it or not find the damaged place. As a result, the vapor barrier will be leaky and of poor quality.
The steam room requires a pipe hole. It is equipped with a box with a stainless steel frame filled with expanded clay.
Cutting the ceiling for a pipe hole must be carried out taking into account maintaining a sufficient distance from the wooden floor to the outer contour of the pipe, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the chimney used.
To make a pipe hole you will need:
- 2mm stainless steel sheet
- galvanized box;
- Clamp clamp.
Cutting the ceiling is carried out mainly in order to ensure the fire safety of the ceiling slabs. In addition, in this way, the elements of the chimney receive additional support and are securely fixed in place. Cutting allows you to design the outlet of the pipe.
The box 400x400 mm is installed from the side of the attic. A sheet of stainless steel 500x500 mm is attached to it from below, from the side of the steam room. Near the steel lining, the pipe is fitted with a clamp, preventing the pipe from coming into contact with the furnace. This significantly extends the life of the furnace, since the entire load from the pipe falls on the upper steel circuit.
After the box and steel sheet have found their places, inner part the box is insulated and covered with expanded clay. This will prevent heat loss through the contour of the box.
The steel sheet on the ceiling provides additional protection against high temperatures.
We bring to your attention an instruction that will help you complete the lining of the ceiling in the bath with clapboard quickly, economically and efficiently:
- The ceiling is sheathed with slats 2x4 cm. They are fastened with a distance of 40-45 cm. In those places where the frame is attached, ventilation gaps of 10 mm must be left.
- Horizontal slats are placed on the walls perpendicular to the lining;
- Fastening panels begins with one of the walls. The first bar is exposed with the groove out. The spike of another panel is hammered into it. The order of connection of the spike and groove can be changed, it is not fundamental.
When sheathing, use rubber pads and a mallet to handle the material gently and gently without damaging it.
- Fasten the planks using special clamps. Kleimers are attached to the rail with a screw or nails. You can also use a construction stapler, it will be even more convenient. With the help of a stapler, the fastening is reliable, and the time to complete the work is significantly reduced.
- There should be gaps between the sheathing and the wall, up to 2.5 cm in size. They are necessary for additional ventilation and to prevent deformation of the finish. To mask the gaps enough to nail ceiling plinth. The first panel and the last are attached with inconspicuous nails. It is necessary to hammer in such nails at an angle, and drive the hat tightly into the wood.
Do not forget that the sheathing should be carried out along strictly vertical lines. After each installed panel level check required. If there is no level at hand, then you can simply measure the distance between the wall and the edge of the sheathing. It should be equal along the entire length of the bar.
If the values obtained as a result of the measurements diverge, then the lining must be knocked out so that the measurements converge. Otherwise, the skin will turn out uneven and sloppy. Stuffing is done with a piece of panel, which is driven into the groove with a mallet or hammer to fit the size.
You can achieve perfect evenness in another way. The wooden lining is fixed and sharp wood chips are hammered under it.
The only material suitable for wall cladding in a steam room is wood. It is also suitable for other bath rooms, but other materials can also be used in them - stone, tile, etc. In the vestibule and the relaxation room, you can create original ensembles by combining various materials.
Clapboard wall cladding
According to the main parameters, wall cladding with clapboard is performed in the same way as ceiling decoration.
- The first stage is to fill a thick beam around the perimeter in a horizontal direction. Step - 80-100 cm.
- In the recesses between the bars you need to put a heater. For example, mineral wool. It is cut with a sharp knife into appropriate pieces. It is not necessary to tamp the heater.
Note! All work from mineral wool must be performed with gloves, a respirator and goggles.
- Then a vapor barrier is laid, each joint is glued with aluminum tape.
Pay special attention to insulation in corner joints.
- Don't forget to leave gaps for ventilation. To do this, you can fill the remote rail. The crate is created at right angles to the lining. Therefore, if you want to sheathe the walls, placing the lining vertically, then the crate must be nailed horizontally.
First of all, rails for the frame are installed in the corners of the walls in a vertical position. Care must be taken to ensure that their position remains strictly vertical. In order to facilitate the alignment of the horizontal slats, string can be pulled between the vertical slats at the ceiling and floor.
- With separate bars, you need to separate the area of \u200b\u200bthe door and the window;
- Now you can go directly to the paneling.
It is recommended to fasten the lining for baths from one corner in the vertical direction. Due to this, it will be easier for water to drain from the walls, without lingering in the grooves of the panels. If you like a horizontal pattern, then the panel spike should be directed upwards so that moisture does not collect or linger in the grooves. In this case, you need to start work by fixing the boards to the ceiling. The crate in this situation is performed in the vertical direction.
The lining is directly fastened with kleimers, nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If you are using self-tapping screws or nails, then insert them at an angle, driving the caps deep into the wood. Ventilation gaps of about 2 cm should remain between the ceiling and the sheathing, the floor and the sheathing.
A common problem that people face when doing self-cladding of the walls of the bath with clapboard is the need to cut the material. It's easy to do. You can cut the lining with a fine-toothed saw or a jigsaw.
The last panel on the wall is cut to right size and attached to the crate. The next wall starts with a panel where the comb is cut off. It should fit snugly against the last rail of the previous wall. In the corners, the elements must be adjusted especially precisely. Determine the exact angle values before sawing the batten or panel. Draw a line with a pencil on the material to avoid mistakes. There should be no seams at the corners of the panels.
The most important moment when performing finishing work inside the bath - this is the insulation of the furnace. Suitable for solving this issue the following materials:
- Stainless steel sheets of appropriate size;
- Minerite is a special material with high heat-resistant characteristics. It is a mixture of cement, reinforcing fiber and mineral fillers. With a close location of the stove near the wall, the mineralite must be put in two layers. If at least 40 cm remains between the oven and the wall, then one layer will be enough.
- Ceramic heat-resistant tiles;
- Solid red brick. They need to lay out the walls from the floor to the base of the pipe or higher;
- Profile iron is the cheapest option.
Ceramic tile - best option for finishing all rooms of the bath, except for the steam room. Considering the modern variety of models and collections, it will not be difficult to make the design of a rest room or washing room not only practical, comfortable and durable, but also aesthetic. The most important argument in favor of tiling is its excellent moisture resistance.
Laying tiles is carried out step by step. The first step is preparation. The second is the direct execution of work.
Preparatory stage
The preparation of concrete or cinder block walls consists in removing dust, dirt, plastering and leveling. The preparation of wooden walls is to perform waterproofing. construction stapler on wooden panels ruberoid is nailed, only. A chain-link mesh is sewn on top of the waterproofing, on which it is densely placed concrete mortar.
Then, in both cases, it is necessary to nail an even beam. It will become the basis of a fine finish. Instead of a bar, suitable and metallic profile. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical rows during the laying process. For horizontal use building level. For vertical, you can use a plumb line.
Instructions for laying tiles in the bath
You can prepare a tile fixing solution yourself. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5. But you can also buy a ready mix. It is recommended to give preference to a special adhesive designed for laying tiles in rooms. high humidity and with temperature fluctuations. Tiles must be immersed in water before laying to remove air. Thanks to this, the tile will adhere much better to the mortar.
Start of work - from the attached level. The first row must be laid out especially diligently, because it is he who determines the evenness of all subsequent rows and the accuracy of the entire lining.
Glue is placed on the reverse side of the tile. Use a notched trowel for this. Glue can also be applied to the wall. Then the tile is carefully applied to the wall and pressed down so that the adhesive protrudes slightly beyond its edges. You can adjust the position of the tiles rubber mallet.
It is important to maintain an equal distance between the tiles. Therefore, after you lay adjacent rows, fix special plastic crosses in the corners of the tiles. This will keep the same gap both in length and in height.
It will take a couple of days for the tiles to dry. After that, you can remove the level and wipe the seams. The color of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile.
Finishing stage- this is the removal of grout residues, cleaning the tiles and giving it a final aesthetic appearance.
With the help of ceramic tiles, you can realize the most daring creative fantasies. You can lay it evenly, diagonally, offset, patterned. The easiest and fastest way is to lay the tiles in even rows.
If you decide to tile a complex pattern or pattern, it is best to transfer it to the floor or wall so that you can immediately see where which tile should be located. This will allow you to accurately complete the cladding and give your bath a truly original and unique look.
Unusual and very stylish solution for a bath - this is a finish with terracotta slabs. They are ideal for this type of room, as they are resistant to both temperature and moisture. At the same time, they allow you to create an original and interesting design, eco-friendly, practical and stylish. The laying of this material has its own characteristics, primarily due to its significant weight. This tile requires a special adhesive. Mastic will work too.
The installation process consists of the following steps:
- Mastic is densely distributed on the stove. This material will require much more adhesive than conventional ceramic tiles;
- We apply the plate to the wall, press down and align;
- We continue to work in the same order with the rest of the plates;
- To align the joints between the tiles, pieces of drywall can be inserted into the seams;
- Do not forget to regularly check the parallelism and evenness of the rows with a level;
- 10 hours after the installation is completed, you can start processing the seams. It is performed with a heat-resistant grout for wide joints. The composition is diluted with water to the density of sour cream.
- Then pieces of drywall are removed from the seams;
- The grout is applied using construction pistol. The spout should be cut at an angle of 60º so that the width of the hole is 8-10 mm;
- The seams are carefully filled with grout. It should not fall on the plates themselves or other surfaces.
Handling a pistol requires experience. So be very careful with it. If the grout still gets on the tile, then do not try to remove it immediately. You will only spread the composition over a larger area. It is better to wait a little while the grout dries. So, you can gently scrape it off.
- The direction of applying the grout can be any;
- Two hours later, you can move on to the stitching, which will provide a finished look to this finish.
- Jointing is done with a 7-8 mm screwdriver or a wire ring;
- After that, you need to walk along the seams with a finger in a clean glove.
The wooden floor in the bath does not need additional finishing. A concrete floor involves laying ceramic tiles with a non-slip coating.
Laying starts from one of the corners. In this case, the ideal evenness of the rows is not required, because the floor in the bath is made with a slope towards the drain. But the approximate location of the tiles is still worth noting on the floor by level before you start laying them.
The work is carried out in the following order:
- The solution is distributed on the floor with a spatula in accordance with the size of the tile;
- The teeth of the spatula imprint a pattern on the mortar, which ensures its reliable connection with the tile;
- Tiles are laid out. In the process of work, its position is adjusted with a rubber hammer. Don't forget about slope formation! Tiles for the first row must be dry. And it is desirable to pre-soak all other elements in water.
- Corner elements are cut to the required size using a tile cutter;
To perform the interior decoration of the bath, you need knowledge of the properties of wood and stone, safety requirements and minimal skills in working with wood. We will talk about the materials and types of finishes recommended for use in the bath, and the skills of a joiner and carpenter will have to be acquired along the way.
Does the bath need finishing
Regardless of what kind of bath you have - Russian, Finnish sauna or Turkish hammam, a bath is high temperature and high humidity. Without finishing, without isolating the walls, floor and roof, you will be forced to heat the steam room for hours, and with it the surrounding air, throwing money literally into the wind.
Due to the difference between the outside and inside temperatures, moisture will condensate on the walls, which over time will lead to the formation of fungus, mold and decay. wooden structures. If the building is made of masonry material (brick or blocks), a steam room without finishing threatens to burn when in contact with a red-hot wall. Only in the case when the bath is cut down from logs or folded from timber, can it be left without additional finishing if the thickness of the walls provides standard resistance to heat transfer. If this is not the case, we return to reading the first sentence of the paragraph.
If the bath is made of logs, complete interior decoration can be omitted
There are many requirements for the decoration of the bath in terms of safety:
The walls and floor of the bath are most often insulated with stone or basalt wool, but this is not the best option: mats and slabs mineral heaters contain a small amount of bituminous binder, which evaporates under the action of high temperature, as well as the smallest particles of fibers that cause irritation when deposited on the skin.
More secure and economical option- insulation with foam glass - allows you to avoid these disadvantages. Vapor barrier is performed with aluminum foil or foiled polyurethane foam, which belongs to the group of non-combustible materials and will serve as an additional heat insulator.
Finishing materials for a bath - how not to make a mistake
Interior decoration different rooms in the bath, performs different tasks, in accordance with them, and choose the type of finish.
Table: requirements for finishing the bath
| room | Peculiarities | Type of finish | ||
| Floor | Walls | Ceiling | ||
| steam room | High temperature - fire protection of wood is required. Humidity - impregnation with antiseptic and fungicide is required | Ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware with waterproofing, hardwood flooring, drainage | Hardwood cladding, stone or brick cladding at the heater | Hardwood false ceiling |
| washing | Humidity - materials are needed that allow periodic washing of surfaces | Ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware with non-slip surface, drainage | Tiling or finishing with materials that allow wet cleaning | moisture resistant painting or suspended ceiling |
| Restroom | No requirements | Wood or underfloor heating with tiles | No requirements | No requirements |
Steam room finishing
For steam room cladding, it is better to use hardwood, which does not emit resin when heated. When choosing a material for wall cladding, one must remember that a bath is not only pleasant, but also useful. Inhaling phytoncides secreted by a heated tree into the steam room, we increase the body's resistance to colds, and heal the respiratory tract.
| Type of wood | Advantages | Flaws |
| Oak | Sturdy wood, durable, great looks | Slips when wet, high price |
| Ash | Durable wood with a beautiful pattern, resistant to rot | High price |
| Birch | Light pleasant aroma | Subject to rotting, does not hold its shape well when high temperature |
| Linden | It has a pleasant color when heated, exudes a delicate aroma, is resistant to rot and high temperatures, is affordable | No |
| Aspen | Low price, light pleasant aroma | Subject to rotting, over time changes color to dirty gray |
| Alder | beautiful appearance, affordable price, odorless, does not absorb odors, durable | No |
If you are interested a budget option finishes - choose alder, if there are no restrictions on cost, then the best option is ash.
Bath, trimmed with ash lining, will look prestigious and expensive
For lovers of coniferous smells, a combined finish can be offered: where contact with the skin is possible, we make hardwood finishes, and, for example, we sheathe the space under the shelves with cedar, larch or pine.
For lining the wall section near the heater, it is necessary to choose a material with high heat capacity and thermal conductivity, which ensures maximum accumulation and uniform heat transfer. The structure of the stone must be homogeneous so that it does not explode when water enters. Stones are selected round or oval with smooth surface for free air circulation, optimal size- from 5 to 21 cm. Another requirement is environmental safety: when heated, they should not emit harmful substances.
Table: properties of stones for a bath
| Mineral | Properties |
| Gabbro - diabase | Gabbro - diabase is the most affordable and popular option. The stone is dark gray, almost black in color with low water absorption, excellent heat capacity and very durable. Unfortunately, with strong heating, it emits an unpleasant odor, and when it hits essential oil forms a deposit on the surface. |
| Soapstone | Talcochlorite is durable, strong, has excellent heat capacity, it comes in colors from light gray to cherry. In order to exclude dusting, the stones are washed and calcined before the first use. It features a pleasant, light steam with healing effect: reduces pressure, heals the respiratory system and skin. Negative characteristic - high price. |
| Basalt | Basalt is the hardest stone of all volcanic rocks. It has only positive characteristics - it is strong, durable, has a large heat capacity, perfectly tolerates temperature changes, does not emit harmful substances. I am pleased with the availability even the price. |
| Jade | Jadeite is a semi-precious stone, so do not be surprised at the high price of this mineral. The color from white through emerald green to black makes it attractive in appearance, and its medicinal properties were appreciated even in ancient China. An excellent choice for people who care about their health. |
| Crimson quartzite | Raspberry quartzite, just like jadeite, is attractive in appearance with its bright color and has excellent operational qualities - hardness, durability, heat resistance, low water absorption and environmental safety. It perfectly tolerates high temperatures, you can pour water on it without fear of an “explosion”. When buying, you should avoid split stones, as they will continue to crumble. |
| white quartz | White quartz is not very durable and does not tolerate high temperatures, but due to its spectacular appearance it is one of the most expensive stones: this translucent mineral consists of silicon and oxygen molecules, and when heated, it releases ozone, which makes the steam room with it especially useful. |
The ceiling in the steam room above the heater, as well as the wall behind it and the floor around it, requires protection with fireproof material. Above the heater, you can make a plot false ceiling from soapstone slab. Soapstone is a versatile material for heater stones, floor and ceiling wall cladding. More budget option a metal sheet above the stove, the foundation and wall cladding of solid, well-fired bricks.
Soapstone can be used not only as a material for stones, but also as a wall and ceiling decoration behind the heater
The floor in the steam room is made of concrete or ceramic tiles, with waterproofing and a drain for draining water. Hardwood flooring is laid on top.
Finishing materials for washing
A washing room with open shower screens requires the installation of channels, drains and a moisture-resistant finish: facing with ceramic tiles or other durable and moisture-resistant material that can withstand elevated temperatures.
If it is planned to install individual shower cabins, such a finish is not required, you can sheathe the walls with clapboard, paint them or plaster them with moisture-resistant decorative plaster.
In order for water not to affect the frame of the sink, it is tiled
It is desirable to perform floors with heating. The tile should be with a rough surface, excluding slippage. It is undesirable to make an oak floor in wet rooms, as it is very slippery when wet. A coating of coniferous wood is welcome, especially larch, as the most resistant to decay.
The area of the floor near the font, where significant spills of water are possible, is best made of ceramic tiles with a ladder.
The ceiling of the washing room will have to be washed periodically, respectively, the material must withstand processing detergents: larch lining, metal rack or cassette suspended ceilings.
Restroom
The rest room has no restrictions on decoration, with the exception of a warm floor - it is always pleasant to walk barefoot on a warm tree. The rest of the interior design depends on the taste and requirements of the owner of the bath.
Photo gallery: options for finishing the premises of the bath
In this steam room, the firewood rack serves as an interesting element of the interior. 
Soft diffused light and heat from a brick Russian stove will create an unforgettable experience of visiting the bath 
Protective rail lampshades protect lamps from mechanical influences and create directional light streams 
It is very comfortable to take bath procedures in a small steam room 
The interior of the steam room is very decorated with a combined layout of lining made of different types of wood. 
A steam room for a large company should be heated by a high-powered heater
Do-it-yourself bath decoration
In order to be beautiful in the bath, you need to choose reliable and high-quality finishing materials and mount them in accordance with the specifics of the premises described in the previous sections.
Choice of finishing materials
The choice that takes into account the size of the building, personal taste and financial component will be optimal for each owner of the bath. In order not to make a mistake when buying material, you must first:
Calculation of the area of premises
To determine the need for materials, it is necessary to know the surface area to be finished. All calculations are done in meters.
For the floor and ceiling, multiply the length of the room by its width. To get the area of the walls, we calculate the perimeter of the room: add the length and width and multiply by two. The product is multiplied by the height of the ceilings. From the result we subtract the area of doors and windows, if any.
In rooms with complex combined finishes, the area of each section is calculated separately.
How to buy quality materials and prepare them for installation
When choosing a material, it is necessary to pay attention first of all to the quality of the goods.
Calculation of the need for materials
- Find the area of one board. So, with a standard length of 6 m and a thickness of 90 mm, the area of \u200b\u200bthe board will be equal to 6 ∙ 0.09 \u003d 0.54 m 2.
- Calculate the surface area to be treated. Suppose that it is necessary to upholster the walls of a room measuring 3 x 6 m with a ceiling height of 2.5 m. The surface area is: (3 + 6) ∙ 2 ∙ 2.5 \u003d 45 m 2.
- Calculate the number of boards. To do this, we divide the surface area by the area of one board: 45 / 0.54 \u003d 83.3 boards.
For example, here is the specification of the material for finishing the steam room:
In the same way, the need for wood is calculated for the remaining rooms.
For calculation paintwork materials the surface area should be multiplied by the paint consumption, which is usually given on the package in liters per square meter. The product will show how many liters of paint you need to buy.
All goods must be bought with a margin of 10%, taking into account the tolerance for waste and defects in work.
Required Tools
To finish the bath with your own hands you will need:
- Perforator.
- Screwdriver.
- Building level.
- Hammer.
- Furniture stapler.
- Plane.
- Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
- Self-tapping screws, nails or clamps.
Step-by-step instructions for finishing the bath
Work is performed after laying electrical wiring and ventilation ducts, starting from the floor. The floor of the steam room is raised 10-15 cm above the level of adjacent rooms. After the clean floor is laid, proceed to the decoration of the walls. The ceiling is completed last.
- Making a frame for insulation. The frame is assembled from a 100x40 mm timber impregnated with a flame retardant and fungicide. The beam is fastened with screws or dowels to the wall at intervals equal to the width of the insulation plate minus 5 mm.
A frame made of wooden beams is mounted on the walls and ceiling
- Heater installation. Between the bars of the frame, plates or mats of insulation are laid on heat-resistant glue with additional fastening with dowels, 5-6 pieces each. per 1 m 2.
- Installation of heat-reflecting material. aluminum foil or foil fire-resistant film, for example, foil foam, is fixed with staples using construction stapler to the insulation layer.
On the heat-reflecting layer, a counter-lattice is mounted under the finish coating
Wall cladding. The lining is attached to the frame in accordance with the selected layout. Nails are hammered into the grooves so that they are not visible on the finish. Nail the plinth.
For finishing the premises in the bath, you can choose different varieties wood with different shades colors
Installation of the false ceiling frame. To the floor logs or to the walls of the 100x50 timber with a vertical orientation, the frame of the false ceiling is attached. The distance between the bars should correspond to the width of the insulation board minus 5 mm for the spacer.
The ceiling installation is started after the wall cladding
Installation of heat-reflecting material. Foil or foil material is fixed in the same way as on the walls.
Clapboard ceiling lining. It is carried out similarly to wall upholstery. The section of the ceiling above the stove is protected by non-combustible material: stainless steel sheet or plate material. Attached ceiling plinth.
A foil vapor barrier is attached to the insulation, and then a lining is nailed to the finished crate
Video: interior decoration of the steam room
Having got acquainted with the requirements for the premises of the bath and having studied the information on the correct execution of the finish, you have received the necessary theoretical knowledge. The work does not require special professional skills and is within the power of any homeowner.
Building a bath is a complex, expensive and long-term process. Interior decoration requires a special approach. Most such work can be done by hand. It is necessary to carefully choose finishing materials, the comfort of bath procedures depends on this. Here are tips on finishing, photos of the steam room, washing and other rooms of the bath inside.
The steam room is considered the most difficult and demanding for the selection of material. This is where the highest temperature and humidity will be. Given this, it is necessary to stop the choice of finishing materials only on natural raw materials.
Plastic is definitely excluded from the list of possible options. In a steam room, it can cause serious harm to health. Tiles for this room also cannot be used. When heated, it is capable of cracking; touching a very hot ceramic surface can cause serious burns.
Steam room finishing The most widely used material for finishing the steam room is wood. It is preferable to use only hardwood lining. Because the board is coniferous species trees release resin when heated. Contact with it is very dangerous with burns. For a steam room, it is better to choose one of the following types of wood:
- Linden;
- ash;
- birch;
- alder;
- maple;
- aspen.
Advice. Although larch belongs to the coniferous tree species, it is great for cladding a steam room.
These tree species are somewhat different in properties, complexity of processing and appearance. Their cost, manufacturing technology of the finishing board and other parameters also vary. But they are united whole line important characteristics for a bath, such as:
- Resistant to hot steam and humidity.
- Uniform, moderate heating without danger of burns.
- Hygiene.
- Practicality.
- Durability.
- Healing properties.
- Hypoallergenic.
- Durability.
- Decorative.
Never use synthetic materials for the steam room The quality of lining for the steam room should be the highest. It is desirable to select material without knots, defects and other natural flaws. The processing of the board is also very important. Since the operating conditions of the room are characterized by serious loads, the lining should not swell at high humidity and not dry out when the bath is not heated.
Do-it-yourself washing room decoration
Slightly less stringent requirements are imposed on the finishing of the washing room than on the arrangement of the steam room. But although there are no such high temperatures in this room, the humidity is always very high. Thus, finishing materials may not differ in the features of heating without burns, but moisture resistance is a mandatory criterion. Experienced bath attendants advise here to give preference to natural, environmentally friendly, breathable materials. These properties boast a tree, for example lining good quality. But other materials are also often used, for example:
- stone;
- tile;
- plastic.
Tiles in the wash room Plastic finishing materials must be approached with extreme caution. They should only be of the highest quality, preferably certified. Since in the conditions of a bath, heated plastic can exude far from the most pleasant smell, or even release toxins.
The choice of wood for finishing the washing is much wider than for the steam room. Here it is possible to apply conifers. The temperature in this room is no longer so high as to provoke the release of resin. Pine is one of the most available materials among analogues. It has many advantages. For example, such wood contains phytoncides, which are very beneficial for health. Coniferous smell has a healing effect on nervous system, heart, lungs. But with intensive use of the bath, pine lining may lose its decorative effect. Its pleasant color is able to darken.
The better to decorate the rest room in the bath
Choosing a finish for this room, you can pay more attention to the design side than the practical one. Although, of course, the material must meet a number of requirements:
- environmental friendliness;
- ease of cleaning;
- aesthetics;
- durability.
Rest room in the bath The floors in this room must be very well fitted so that it is pleasant to walk on them barefoot. The Russian tradition involves the use of wood in the decoration of recreation areas. But this is not a prerequisite. You just need to remember that high humidity is maintained in all areas of the bath, even in the rest room. Along with wood, you can give preference to the following materials:
- porcelain stoneware;
- decorative plaster;
- natural stone;
- glass wall papers.
It is advisable to take care of powerful ventilation even at the stage of designing and building a bath. Healthy air circulation must also be ensured in the rest room. The very atmosphere of the room is designed in such a way that everything in it is conducive to relaxation and rest.
Advice. It is better not to use linoleum in the bath. Despite its practicality, this synthetic material is able to release harmful substances and quickly break down at high temperature and humidity.
Much attention should be paid not only to the decoration of the walls, but also to the ceiling. Be sure to use high-quality vapor barrier. The ceiling next to the stove is additionally insulated with a metal sheet.
When using wood as finishing material, it is important to bring it into the room in advance. Preferably two days before the start of work. This simple technique will allow the lining not to swell so much in high humidity and not crack when dried. While the material is resting, you can proceed with the installation of the crate. Most often, it is arranged from a bar 50 x 50. But you can also use a metal profile. The standard batten spacing is 70 cm. It may vary depending on the finish used.
Installation of interior decoration in the bath Important milestone- thermal insulation. To bath neglect good insulation by no means is it possible. A layer of waterproofing is also needed. The direction of lining can be both vertical and horizontal. The location of the crate should be perpendicular to the sheathing boards. It is recommended not to use ordinary nails for fastening. They can quickly rust and thereby ruin the appearance of the finish. It is better to purchase copper or brass studs.
Floors can be wooden, concrete, tiles are rarely laid. If any materials other than wood are used, gratings must be made to prevent burns and slips. If you decide to use tiles, it is better to choose a glazed bath type that has a rough surface.
Advice. It is better not to make the floor of the bath from oak boards. Although it is a very durable wood, it slips when wet. And under constant influence, steam can be somewhat bent.
Finishing the bath with your own hands will save a lot of money. And besides, you can be sure that everything is done with high quality, according to your own taste and all the little things are taken into account. Fastening the lining usually does not cause any particular difficulties and does not require special knowledge and skills. Such a board has locks and fits snugly to each other.
Interior decoration of the bath: video
