Do-it-yourself sawdust stove from a gas cylinder. We are exploring the benefits of using a sawdust stove and trying to make one ourselves How to burn pine chips in a contour stove

For heating small rooms, heaters or expensive stoves are often used. But, having shown a little ingenuity and skill, it is possible to build from almost waste materials bake long burning operating on one of the cheapest types of fuel - sawdust. good for its simplicity. It is easy to install it in a greenhouse, heat a garage, country house or other premises with it. small size. It does not require the cost of electricity or gasoline.

This environmentally friendly and most economical type of fuel can be of several types. One of them - chips and sawdust in bulk. They are easy to get from woodworking factories where they are waste or if there is a carpentry shop nearby. Briquettes and pellets are made using a special press. This process with the help of simple devices can be adjusted at home.

The next type of fuel is pellets. They are much more profitable than ordinary firewood (they burn longer, and the cost is several times lower). They are very easy to transport and store. Pellets are small capsules (about eight millimeters in diameter) made of compressed sawdust.

In addition to pellets and loose sawdust, long-burning stoves are used fuel briquettes. They are cylindrical, rectangular, six- and octahedral (Pini-Key).

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Benefits of using sawdust as fuel

• Low cost of fuel;
• Ease of storage;
• Heat transfer and burning time are higher than ordinary firewood or peat briquettes;
• Pellets do not emit soot and toxic substances during combustion;
• Combustion products remaining from the burning of sawdust - good fertilizer for garden;
• There is much less garbage from sawdust and pellets than from firewood and coal;
• Due to the fact that the sawdust is always dry, they can light the stove at any convenient time, while firewood sometimes requires additional drying;
• When burning fuel briquettes or sawdust, much less ash and ash is generated than when burning firewood.

Disadvantages of using sawdust

The disadvantages include dust from sawdust, which in rare cases can cause an allergic reaction, as well as the fact that, if stored improperly, sawdust can ignite spontaneously. However, both of these factors are extremely rare.

How to make fuel briquettes for use in a long-burning kiln

To make sawdust briquettes you will need:

• wooden beams, nails and a hammer for assembling the press;
• two metal cylinders - forms for future briquettes;
• sawdust;
• water.

Step-by-step instruction:

Another similar way to make fuel briquettes for the stove is to put together a few wooden boxes with many cells, mix sawdust with water and a small amount of clay, hammer this mixture tightly into the cells of the boxes to let the water come out. A day later, we get the fuel briquettes and use them for their intended purpose.

Do-it-yourself stove "Bubafonya" on sawdust

Since the combustion temperatures of sawdust are higher than the combustion temperatures of firewood, the walls of the fuel tank must be made thicker - at least 10 mm. And to ensure counter fire safety the furnace is installed on the foundation and equipped with a reflective screen, a water circuit, or the furnace is lined with refractory bricks.

Furnace mounting material:

• thick-walled barrel with a sealed bottom (or used gas bottle) for the furnace, it is desirable to choose a volume of about two hundred liters;
• two pieces of metal pipes;
• channel;
• sheet metal;
• grinder, cleaning and cutting wheels for it;
• hammer;
• welding machine and electrodes;
• hacksaw for metal;
• bricks and cement for the foundation.

Work must be carried out in accordance with safety regulations. In addition, it is necessary to carry out work near the source of electricity.

1. Fuel tank

If a barrel or cylinder is used, the top must be cut off. To do this, use a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. According to the markup, cut off the upper part, carefully making sure that the tool does not overheat, and the cut line is even. The remaining part can later be used as a furnace cover.

In the event that the fuel tank is made by welding from sheet metal, it is pre-bent into a radius of bending machine, then connect welding machine in the form of a cylinder. To this cylinder, a bottom of the appropriate size is cut out of a piece of sheet metal and welded to it, monitoring the quality of the weld.

The diameter of the pressing circle should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the fuel tank. This will ensure its free movement in the furnace as the fuel burns. In the center of the pressure circle, it is necessary to cut a hole equal to the diameter of the supply pipe. After that, the channel is sawn into 4 equal sections and welded to the circle. This is necessary to increase the mass of the pressure wheel and provide additional structural strength.

The length of the supply pipe is calculated as follows: measure the length of the fuel tank and add from 20 to 50 cm to this value.

The supply pipe and the pressure circle are connected by welding.

It is necessary to make a damper on the pipe, with the help of which the amount of air entering the furnace will be regulated. The simplest damper is a small metal circle with a steel bar handle for ease of use.

3. Outlet pipeline

To attach it to the firebox, markings are made on the top of the tank and a hole is cut out equal to the diameter of the outlet pipe. After that, the pipe is attached by welding. The pipe is connected to the main heating system by means of a clamp and heat-insulating material (fiberglass).

4. Lid

The lid is cut from a piece sheet metal or use the cut part of the barrel for this. A hole is cut in the center for the supply pipe and handles are welded from bent metal rods.

To protect the stove from overheating and improve heat distribution, a sheet of metal - a reflector - is welded to the outside of the fuel tank (with small metal corners).

The foundation is laid out from two rows of refractory bricks.

How to properly drown "Bubafonya" with sawdust

Before putting sawdust into Bubafnya, a pipe of small diameter is placed inside the combustion chamber. Sawdust is laid around this pipe, compacting them tightly.

When the sawdust is laid to the very top, the pipe is pulled out. Thus, sawdust is stacked in the furnace in such a way that the resulting combustion products will be blown down by the air flow (draft) into the shaft formed by the pipe.

The sawdust is ignited with a torch or matches, closed with a pressure disk, a lid, and the furnace is watched for several minutes, adjusting the valve gap and, accordingly, the draft and combustion intensity.

Thus, from the cheapest materials, a long-burning furnace using biologically pure fuel with an efficiency of almost 100% is obtained. The Bubafonya stove on sawdust is the best option for economical owners.

Often the problem furnace heating is not how to start a fire, but how the stove will fill the house with heat. The laws of thermodynamics suggest: the longer the time and intensity of fuel combustion in the furnace, the more heat is released. There are two ways to achieve an increase in burning time: to heat by continuously adding firewood (pouring coal) and correct adjustment combustion mode. If the first method is available to everyone, including the machine, then in order to master the second method, you will have to understand some of the features of the device and control of the furnace. And then, armed with knowledge, using the trial and error method, turn the “heating problem” into the “art of heating”.

Basic principles of furnace furnace

In order to understand how to heat the stove correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with it. internal structure and ways to control the intensity of fire in the furnace.

Device diagram

Any stove, boiler or fireplace consists of three main parts:

1. Firebox.
2. Heat exchanger.
3. Pipe.

• The firebox, or combustion chamber, serves to create a controlled combustion process of fuel. Represents a conditional closed space designed for burning combustible materials - wood, coal, peat, etc. Necessary condition in the manufacture of the combustion chamber - high heat resistance.
• Heat exchanger - part of the furnace, with the help of which the heat of the combustible fuel is transferred to the environment. It can be a boiler coil or just a furnace wall. The main task is to convert thermal energy obtained from the process of combustion of fuel into a different form: heat the air around the hearth or the liquid inside the boiler. In fireplaces, as in a fire, infrared radiation plays the role of a heat exchanger.
• The pipe serves to remove the smoke generated during the combustion process. And also to create traction - the accelerated movement of the air flow, which contributes to combustion. The tube is the prototype of all turbines that are used today both in conventional cars and in spaceships. The higher the pipe - the greater the power of the furnace.

Scheme of the device of the Russian stove

Control is exercised by means of 4 controls.

Two doors - one for the combustion chamber, the other - for blowing. Chimney damper (or valve) and view.

The door of the combustion chamber is designed for laying firewood, coal, briquettes into the furnace. In working order, it must be tightly closed. To do this, it is equipped with a locking device in the form of a valve or latch.

The blower door is one of the main levers of influence on the combustion process.

With its help, the supply of oxygen-enriched air to the combustion chamber is regulated. During the kindling of firewood, it closes tightly. As the combustion process stabilizes, it opens and remains in this state throughout the entire time of the furnace. If we draw an analogy with a car, this is an accelerator, a gas pedal.

The view is installed directly at the transition from the firebox to the pipe. With its help, you can regulate the outflow of smoke, as well as separate the firebox from the chimney after the fuel has burned out. This allows you to keep warm longer in the house in the cold season. For the manufacture of a view, cast iron is traditionally used, capable of long time withstand significant temperature fluctuations. The frame is mounted in brickwork, on top of which a lid is put on, and then a pancake.

IN Lately the view is used less and less. The stove-makers prefer to install another additional valve instead. The advantage of the valve is that it is easier to control the flow of smoke, hands do not get dirty with soot, there is no need for gloves (touching the view without a glove can lead to burns).

Classic cast-iron view for the Russian stove

The chimney valve is installed on the pipe after the view and is a device for adjusting the outgoing gases. In interaction with the view, the valve serves to optimally adjust the combustion process. In addition, in harsh climatic conditions, with the help of a chimney valve, the best mode of operation of the pipe, which is subject to frosting and acid corrosion, is achieved. If the chimney of the furnace is brick, then a cast-iron valve is installed, consisting of a frame and an engine. If the pipe is metal, then the valve is made of the same material.

Russian chimney damper in a Russian stove

The better to heat and what to choose: the pros and cons of different types of fuel

There are the following types of fuel for stoves and fireplaces:

• natural gas;
• stone and charcoal;
• diesel fuel;
• firewood, wood briquettes and pellets;
• peat and others.

The choice of a particular type of fuel depends on many factors. These include the region of residence, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, the type of boiler or furnace equipment. In addition, different types of combustible materials have different costs, which also affects the final result. If the house is located in a wooded area, where there is a lot of natural wood material, there is no point in heating with expensive imported coal or diesel fuel. And, conversely, in regions where coal is mined, but with a steppe landscape, it is more reasonable to use coal.

Each type of fuel has its own advantages and disadvantages. This table shows the most characteristic properties of combustible materials in terms of convenience and safety of their consumption.

Table: comparative characteristics of various fuel materials

Among other things, combustible materials can be compared in terms of their coefficient useful action(efficiency).

Table: Efficiency of various energy carriers

The vast majority in our country uses firewood. Despite some shortcomings, firewood belongs to the category of renewable fuels and their resource in the forest zone is practically inexhaustible. Therefore, consider the main characteristics of this unique and accessible view fuel in more detail.

First of all, you need to know that different types of wood emit different amounts of heat during combustion. This is due to the density of the wood itself and the amount of moisture contained in them. For example, such tree species like willow, linden, poplar, aspen contain a lot of bound water, and drying takes a long time (up to 2 years when stored in natural conditions). Harvesting them as fuel is not recommended.

The best raw materials for firewood are oak, pine, larch, birch. Apple, pear and cherry burn beautifully, but they are not harvested on an industrial scale. The table below shows data reflecting the calorific value of various tree species.

Table: calorific value of firewood from various tree species

Various calorific values ​​for different breeds wood

An important indicator of the effectiveness of firewood is the degree of dryness.

The optimum wood moisture content is considered to be less than 25%. Raw, freshly cut wood has a moisture content of about 60%. Drying in natural conditions (under a canopy that protects the warehouse from precipitation) lasts from 1 to 1.5 years, depending on the region and climatic conditions.

In this regard, granulated wood briquettes, which undergo forced drying in industrial dryers, have a significant advantage in this respect.

Video: making a sawdust press

Video: do-it-yourself briquettes for furnaces

How to properly heat the stove with coal, wood and other fuels in the house - instructions and recommendations

In addition to fuel, you should preparatory work and purchase special tools.

Necessary materials and tools

In order for the furnace to be safe and comfortable, special devices and tools were invented. With their help, the whole set of simple actions is performed to ensure the conditions for the normal operation of the furnace.

• Axe. One of the most ancient instruments. With his help, houses were built and firewood was harvested. Good for chopping wood with an ax right size, cut wood chips.
• Poker. An indispensable tool for laying and skimming firewood (or other fuel) in the stove. Convenient poker is made of metal, but has wooden handle. It comes in various lengths, which should be selected in accordance with specific operating conditions. A properly selected poker should easily penetrate between the grate to clean it from ash.
• Metal scoop. Needed for regular cleaning of the oven. The size of the scoop is selected based on the size of the blower - the blade should fit freely in the opening of the blower door.
• Metal tongs. Very handy tool, which allows you to manipulate all the hot parts of the furnace - the doors of the furnace, blower, wood basket in the fireplace, etc.
• Heat-resistant grip. As a rule, it is made in the form of a mitten on the right or left hand. It differs from the usual mitten in that it is made of materials that are not amenable to combustion and poorly conduct heat. From above, the grip is protected by special fiberglass, inside it is filled with heat-resistant cotton wool. With it, you can safely move the valves on the chimney without fear of getting burned. A high-quality grip is made of a material to which soot practically does not stick.
• Metal bucket. Serves for cleaning the cavity of the blower from ash and ashes.

A set of tools and accessories for the fireplace

Fire safety rules for the operation of stove heating and preparatory work

In order for the stove to serve for many years and not be the cause of trouble, certain rules must be observed. They were “invented” by life itself, which makes us treat the stove not only as a source of heat, but also as a potentially dangerous unit. Careless handling of fire can lead to disastrous and even tragic consequences.

Folk omen. If in a house heated by a Russian stove, the eyes are watery or sour (as with conjunctivitis) in the morning, then it seeps through the cracks in the stove. carbon monoxide. The oven is in need of repair. And until it is done, you can’t leave the heat in the oven for the night, you can heat it only during the day. Before going to bed, it is recommended to ventilate the room.

First of all, the oven must be in good working order, it should not have cracks, sagging or poorly closing doors. The furnace pipe must comply with the standard dimensions. The floor in front of the firebox is best covered with a metal sheet. The recommended size is 1 m from the blower door. Firewood must be stored outside the zone of possible ignition.

You need to kindle a fire with small wood chips, birch bark, paper. Starting with a small fire, gradually bring the stove to the operating mode.

Dry alcohol tablets

Before each new firebox, the cavity of the combustion chamber, the grate and the space of the blower compartment must be cleaned of ash and ashes. Only under this condition, the oven will function optimally.

The chimney must be cleaned at least once a year.

If the stove has been idle for a long time, the first time it needs to be prepared for the regular heating mode. To do this, paper is burned in the firebox. You need to burn it until there is a steady draft in the chimney. Views and shutters should be as open as possible. The blower is covered, the thrust is created by the nozzle of the fuel chamber.

Video: how to light a brick oven in the country

Only after this should the main portion of firewood be laid. Stacking methods can be varied, but the basic rule is that the distance between the logs should be such that air can freely flow around the fuel from all sides. Usually it is about 1–2 cm. In this situation, the firewood begins to burn together, releasing maximum heat.

Proper stacking of firewood in the firebox is the key to a long stove life

How to properly heat the stove with wood: the “black way” method

At the beginning of the kindling of the stove, the laying of firewood is made small, just enough to get stable coals. Roughly, this should be a layer 30–35 cm from the grate plane. If kindling is done with peat or granulated briquettes, the layer may be smaller - about 15–25 cm.

If the combustion process has become stable, the next portion can be added only when the fuel has burned out to 50%.

Premature intervention (shurovka, laying new firewood, etc.) can extinguish the flames of the fire.

The color of the flame can serve as a good guide. The best heat transfer rates will be when the fire emits a light yellow color. If the color is red, it means that the combustion temperature is low. Perhaps the firewood is not dry enough. A white glow indicates excessive thrust, similar to that created in blacksmith's forge with furs. In this case, you can close the blower door or reduce the pipe section using a valve or a view. Combustion at high temperatures leads to the fact that heat, not having time to warm up the heat exchanger, flies into the open space of the street.

Optimum mode of burning wood in the furnace

In order to increase the efficiency of the furnace unit, you should carefully monitor the position of the doors and valves. Thus, it has been experimentally established that with an open furnace door, up to 45% of heat escapes into the surrounding outdoor environment. A poorly closed door is only 1 mm. reduces the efficiency of the furnace by 10%. Therefore, always after laying fuel, it is necessary not only to cover the door, but to close it tightly using locking mechanisms. Among other things, this will help prevent sparks from flying out of the furnace into the living area, which can most likely lead to a fire.

The duration of the furnace furnace depends on the type of fuel with which it is carried out.

When using wood-based materials, it is recommended to burn for 1–1.5 hours. The approximate temperature of the furnace walls is optimal in the range of 75–85 degrees. More heat negatively affects the masonry, leads to the gradual destruction of bricks and binder mortar.

If the combustible material is coal, the burning time of which is longer, the whole process is extended to 2.5–3 hours. During this time, the stones must completely burn out, only their non-combustible part, the so-called ash, will remain in the furnace.

The furnace is completed after the complete burnout of combustible materials. This is usually indicated by the absence of the blue, final flame that burns off the residual carbon monoxide poisonous gas. At the final stage, it is recommended to clean the firebox and ash pan, close all doors tightly and reduce the draft in the pipe to a minimum using valves. If everything is done correctly, the stove will give off heat to the living room for a long time, keeping comfortable temperature air.

Video: kindling methods

The fireplace is a very nice detail in the interior. It brings a special coziness and immediate warmth to the house. But when using it, you must adhere to certain rules.

Built-in fireplace

Since the fire in the fireplace is practically open and can serve as an unwitting cause of a fire hazard, the safety requirements for burning a fireplace are tougher and this is justified.

In fact, a fireplace insert is comparable to a black-out furnace, with the only difference being that the smoke is disposed of using a smoke extractor.

Before lighting the fireplace, first of all, you need to make sure that the chimney is in good condition. To do this, a paper bundle is burned at the opening of the pipe, having previously fully opened the valve. If the draft is satisfactory, you can start kindling a fire. This is done in the same way as in the Russian oven. The only difference is that there is no need to manipulate the blower doors - they are not in the fireplace, the air flow is carried out in a free form. The room in which the fireplace is installed must be well ventilated, in case of a lack of oxygen in the environment, the flame in the hearth will be uneven and fuming.

It is best to use wood species for making a fire in a fireplace that burn evenly, without sparks. These include birch and alder. Resinous rocks - spruce, pine, fir - due to their structure, they can throw drops of hot and burning resin into the environment. Cracking and sparking in the fireplace is also fraught with the destruction of the pyramid of firewood, scattering them around the crucible.

Peat and wood chip briquettes have proven themselves well. In the fireplace, they burn evenly and give off 30% more heat. It is also important that briquettes can be burned at the very bottom of the furnace, while firewood has to be stacked in a pyramid and the temperature peak rises closer to the hood. This significantly reduces heat transfer.

Briquettes from peat

In order to increase safety when using a fireplace, it is recommended to use a decorative metal grate that prevents “shooting” coals from entering the residential part of the house.

If large quantities of fine-grained material are available, such as wood chips or sawdust, straw, sunflower cake, etc. briquettes can be made independently with the help of a simple device.

Stoker's ancient profession has been replaced today automated systems. But at home and country conditions people are increasingly setting up their own hearth. And I would very much like that this wonderful tradition would not become the cause of troubles and disasters. To do this, you just need to take care of the stove itself and in every possible way observe fire and personal safety measures when using open fire.

In small utility rooms it is very cold in autumn and winter. It is not always possible to solve the problem by purchasing Construction Materials for the construction of the furnace. But if there is a body of an old washing machine, a gas cylinder or a tin barrel, you can build a long-burning stove in a matter of days.

With the onset of cold weather, it becomes cozy and warm in the houses, and you don’t feel like going out at all, where the frosty air strives to penetrate under your clothes and makes you shudder from the cold. In small utility rooms, garages, greenhouses, the air temperature drops almost to the same level as on the street. It is not advisable to install a large oven on 15-20 meters of working area, but it is also impossible to engage in useful activities in such conditions. Is there any way out in this situation? simple model sawdust stoves can be made independently in a short time, using simple drawings. Thanks to it, the optimum temperature will always be maintained in the room.

The device of the furnace and the principle of operation

A second bottom is placed in a round fuel tank, under which there is a compartment for laying firewood. The firewood chamber is equipped with a door and a blower. A hole is cut in the bottom, into which a cone-shaped pipe is installed.

The top of the fuel tank is closed with a cap. There is a valve on the chimney. After the cone is installed, the tank is loaded with sawdust. fuel material it is necessary to pour slowly, evenly distributing it and tamping. When the sawdust is covered, the cone pipe must be carefully pulled out. The chimney passage is cleared of sawdust.

Firewood is placed in the lower compartment. The damper on the chimney must be opened. Firewood is set on fire, and the free flow of air contributes to its rapid ignition. The flame spreads to the sawdust, the furnace heats up and gives off heat to the surrounding space.

Attention! The pipe forming a free march in sawdust must necessarily be in the form of a cone. Otherwise, it cannot be pulled out.

Why is sawdust used as fuel?

Using sawdust as a combustible material is very beneficial, because:

• this material is available and cheap, and in most cases costs nothing at all;
• sawdust has excellent heat dissipation, which allows you to warm a room up to 20 meters in area for 6-8 hours;
• you can use the material in the form of bulk, briquettes or pellets.

Sawdust, which are useless garbage in the room, it turns out, can do a good job. And if we are talking about a carpentry workshop, then the problem of heating can now be completely forgotten.

Attention! The cheapest sawdust is briquettes or scattering. Pellets are used in extreme cases because it requires a significant amount of money.

Necessary materials

Enclosures from washing machines, pipe parts large diameter, metal containers from gas cylinders, barrels (with a wall thickness of at least 50 mm.) - all this can serve as a fuel tank. Other required design elements are:

• metal sheet, the thickness of which is not less than 5 mm;
• metal pipe with a diameter of approximately 100 mm .;
• fittings and metal corners.

Old Russian traditions are returning to modern life. The Russian stove with a stove bench is not at all like the one that was before, but its versatility and the ability to create a unique comfort in a living space make it, more than ever, in demand and necessary.

In order not to be distracted during the workflow in search of the right tools, you need to prepare in advance:

• grinder and hacksaw (some details will have to be sawed off and adjusted to size);
• chisel and hammer;
• welding machine (for connecting structural elements into a single whole).

Capacity about 200 l. ideal for making a compact oven. If a gas cylinder is available, then by cutting off its upper part, you can get a finished cover for the furnace, which you do not have to cut out yourself.

Construction stages

The work is carried out in stages, while the dimensions of the holes to be cut must be precisely observed in order to prevent the formation of cracks during the installation of the structure:

1. A hole with a diameter of 100 mm is sawn in the upper side of the body. (a pipe with the same section will be connected to the nozzle, and the nozzle to the fuel tank).
2. To make the bottom of the furnace, the tank must be placed on an iron sheet, outline its contours and cut out the resulting circle with a grinder.
3. In the central part of the bottom is sawn round hole with a diameter of 50 mm., in which a perforated piece of pipe will be installed, the length of which is equal to the height of the tank or slightly exceeds it. Holes must be made in advance. 40-50 incisions 10 mm long. will be quite enough. Now the pipe must be installed in a round hole in the bottom and secured by welding.
4. The cap on the fuel tank is cut from a metal sheet. To make it convenient to lift, you can weld the handles from the reinforcement and secure the lid with metal corners. A hole is cut in the center of the cover, equal to the diameter of the perforated pipe.
5. Immediately, on the lid, closer to its edge, another hole is made. With its help, the draft will be regulated, so the hole must be closed with a damper. An iron circle is cut out with the same diameter as the pull hole. A hole for the bolt is drilled in the round damper, and the bolt itself is pre-welded to the cover.
6. The damper is attached to the bolt with a nut. Now the blower can be opened and closed by adjusting the draft.
7. To the side of the fuel tank in drilled hole the pipe is installed and tightly welded. The chimney is attached to the pipe with a clamp, the joints are wrapped with heat-insulating material and additionally fixed with wire.
8. Two studs fixed to the outer sides of the tank and a rack made of metal corners allow the stove to be turned over in order to clear it of ashes.

Even for beginners who are not familiar with kiln craft, it is easy to make a long-burning stove. It is all the more pleasant that the work was done without anyone's help, with their own hands.

Is it possible to heat a potbelly stove with sawdust?

Even as possible, if you pre-cut an iron circle with a hole in the center, which will act as a pallet. The cone-shaped pipe with its narrow end must fit snugly into the hole.

After installing the cone, sawdust is poured into the pallet. Firewood is laid in the lower part of the potbelly stove. The metal cone is gently pushed out of the pallet so as not to “lubricate” the edges of the free passage among the mass of sawdust. Then the lid of the potbelly stove is closed, the firewood is set on fire, and a cheerful light begins to dance on the firewood, and then spreads to the sawdust.

Attention! The pallet can be taken out at any time and firewood can be used again.

Portable sawdust stove

A miniature version of the sawdust stove will appeal to people who, due to circumstances, are often outdoors. Freezing and chilling in the open air, you really want freshly brewed, fragrant, hot tea. And in these conditions, an excellent way out of the situation would be to use portable design. For her you will need:

• empty can cylindrical shape;
• wire;
• wire cutters;
• stick or tube with a diameter of 2.5-3 cm;
• pliers.

It is better to immediately cut off the lid and throw it away - it will not be needed. A small hole with a diameter of no more than 2 cm is cut out in the center of the bottom with a knife. Now a stick or tube must be inserted vertically into the jar so that it closes the hole in the bottom. A scattering of sawdust is carefully poured into a jar and compacted with fingers. When the container is full, the tube or stick must be slowly pulled out of the can, preventing sawdust from entering the free passage.

The next step will be the construction of a wire stand. The desired piece is separated from the wire coil with wire cutters. It is connected in the form of an equilateral triangle so that the can does not fall through, but rests on the wire. Connection points are fixed by any accessible way. The corners of the triangle must be bent to one side so that the stand stands exactly on a horizontal surface with them.

The jar, packed with sawdust, remains to be placed on a wire structure, from below and above, into the passage between the sawdust, place pieces of paper twisted into small rolls. Now we need to light the mini-oven. You can put mugs of water on it, heat up food in plates, etc. If the dishes are small, then you can build a stand out of wire.

Attention! The sawdust must be dry, otherwise they will only smolder, and all efforts will go down the drain.

Precautionary measures

The sawdust stove heats up very quickly. The metal is very hot, so you can not touch it with your bare hands. You can get burned right away. In no case should littering of the area in which the furnace is located be allowed. Flammable materials will immediately catch fire. And the real fire starts.

For the same reason, you must not leave the room in which the long-burning stove is in working order. For safety reasons, some people line the fuel tank with refractory bricks. And the external arrangement of the premises is changing, and the working unit no longer inspires such serious concerns as before.

The sawdust stove will never lose its popularity, since few people want to collect and transport sawdust to a landfill. Having built a furnace structure, people get two tangible benefits: they can get rid of waste in the most inexpensive way, and the air in the room is warmed at any time of the year.

In the mind of most people, a solid fuel boiler is a metal box with a fuel loading door and a pipe welded to the top. In such a design, everything burned with great speed, throwing heat through the chimney, which was used as a heating element and stretched through the room. Rising energy prices are forcing people to invent more effective ways heating, resulting in a long-burning stove, the efficiency of which is much higher than the traditional

A long-burning boiler differs from other solid fuel heating devices in that it does not burn inside, but smolders, which releases enough heat to provide them with one or two rooms. To create a smoldering process, the fuel is rammed so that a minimum of air remains between its particles, since oxygen increases the intensity of the process with a huge heat release.

In this case, the fuel is quickly consumed, and its additional loading will be required. Such boilers do not bring any savings, and excess heat will leave through the chimney and not be used for its intended purpose. The long-burning boiler uses the energy released during smoldering and is equipped with a regulator that doses the air intake. Smoldering in briquettes or sawdust forms a "furnace" gas, which emits a large number of thermal energy during combustion in the ignition chamber.

There are two options for the design of the furnace:

1. In which the furnace gas, as a result of the combustion of fuel, rises up through the compressed sawdust, entering the chimney.
2. In which the furnace gas with burning sawdust enters the external circuit, where it cools down and is disposed of through the chimney.

Standard long-burning boilers consist of the following main elements:
1. Fuel tank (furnace), in which there is a damper that regulates the flow of primary air.
2. Afterburners with holes made through which secondary air enters.
3. Chimney.

Operation features

To load fuel, remove the cover and clamping circle along with the pipe. Fuel is poured to the bottom to the very chimney, which is maximally compacted. Small branches are placed on top of it, and paper or a rag moistened with kerosene is placed on them. A pressure circle is inserted from above and closed with a lid. After the fuel begins to burn, the air damper is closed and the stove can be left for several hours until the next fuel load.

It is impossible to throw sawdust into long-burning boilers when the process is running. After its laying and until complete combustion, the furnace does not open. It is possible to increase or decrease the combustion force, while heat generation will also increase or decrease. The combustion process starts from the bottom in the center, and spreads to the sides. As it burns, the compressed fuel descends, providing a combustion process for 8-10 hours.

Basic fuel requirement- this is the possibility of its good pressing inside the combustion chamber, in the center of which there is an air channel. The size of the stove is selected based on the estimated time of combustion of the fuel. So, the combustion that has begun from the middle outward continues until the material burns out completely at a speed of 3 cm / h. By loading sawdust into a container with a diameter of 30 cm, the process will continue for up to 6 hours.
The amount of heat generated during combustion depends on the diameter and depth of the furnace. In a tall and narrow design, heating will occur faster, and a product with a large diameter will make the process long and hot.

Advantages of the oven

• Long work on one bookmark of fuel (10-20 hours depending on the model).
• Autonomy of work (constant human control is not required).
• Relatively small size and weight.
• The possibility of using different fuels (the boiler runs on sawdust, coal, firewood, wood chips, pellets), which makes the cost of heating noticeably lower than alternative options.
• Does not require a foundation.
• It does not need regular kindling, a long downtime does not affect the durability and performance of the device, which is especially convenient for country house or cottages.
• Maximum complete combustion of fuel and low ash residue.
• The stove on sawdust practically does not smoke.
• It is quite easy to make with your own hands from a simple steel barrel or other improvised materials.
• Low cost.