Planting climbing roses, care, pruning. Propagation of climbing roses: effective methods for obtaining new plants and their description

Climbing roses, like bush roses, are one of the most popular forms in garden design. True, their purpose is completely different: if bush species are grown as tapeworms or bright accents, then climbing plants are most often used to decorate arbors, pergolas, arcade posts, or, like wild grapes, they are allowed to climb along the walls of buildings.

climbing roses (Rosa x hybrida hort) belong to the Rosaceae family. This type combines everything climbing varieties roses and was bred from 2 wild groups of roses: R. multiflora Thunb and R. wichuraiana Crep.

Flexible long shoots creep or rise in an arched manner, small leaves are hard, small flowers reach 2.2–5 cm in diameter, petals are simple or double. The flowers are collected in large inflorescences. The aroma is faint or absent altogether. The color of the petals can be white, pink or red. It blooms once, but for a long time (about 30–35 days). The flowers are located along the entire length of the shoots. Varieties of this species are characterized by winter hardiness, and therefore a hard, dry shelter is suitable for them.

Flowering in most varieties climbing roses occurs once, and occurs at the beginning of summer, while only last year's lashes bloom. Therefore, it is so important for these plants to survive the winter well in order to preserve last year’s lashes.

According to the description, climbing roses are very similar to bush roses. They have the same beautiful and richly colored leaves. The shoots are 1.5–5 m long, which makes it possible to plant trees on fairly tall objects.

How to plant a climbing rose correctly (with video)

Usually the climbing rose is planted on the sunny side of the house so that it receives sunlight most of the day. sunlight important not only for the current flowering, but also for the formation of new strong shoots responsible for flowering next year. However, it is advisable to plant them in places where they can be in the shade for a couple of hours a day, which will make the flowering period longer.

Each gardener who loves to grow beautiful flowers in their suburban area should know the following. Rose doesn't like stagnant water, so groundwater should lie at a depth of no more than one and a half meters. The hole for planting roses must be made in a special way and care must be taken to ensure that it is 0.5 by 0.5 meters in size. It is important. Next, part of the excavated soil is lowered to the bottom, and river sand and a bucket of humus are added to the hole in a slide. And it would be very good if the owner suburban area I was concerned about purchasing a fertilizer such as superphosphate.

It must be placed in the hole in a proportion of 3-4 tablespoons. Based on the fact that the elongated vines of the plant will need to be properly laid out for the winter, there is no need to plant plants close to each other.

The stems of the seedlings must be trimmed to 30 centimeters, and then the rhizomes must be soaked in liquid clay. In addition, roses are very fond of such a simple fertilizer known to every novice gardener as cow manure. In a village where a shepherd takes the cows for a walk, there will be no problems with him. In addition, manure is sold by specialized companies that work in this area.

Climbing roses are planted so that the root collar is covered with a layer of earth of about 10 cm. If several rose bushes are planted nearby, then the distance between them is at least one meter. If a rose is planted for landscaping a fence or wall of a house, then the distance from the planting site to the support should be about 45 cm.

It is advisable to mulch the soil under roses with sawdust, grass or straw. During flowering, it is important to remove faded flowers in a timely manner so that the flowering period lasts longer.

This video shows how to plant a climbing rose:

Below we describe how to grow climbing roses in the country and how to care for these flowers.

How to grow climbing roses in the country and how to properly care for them in the garden

The climbing rose is drought-resistant and should be watered no more than once a week.

You need to feed the rose 3-4 times during the growing season either with mullein infusion or with complex fertilizer for roses.

Due to the large weight of the rose branches, it needs a fairly strong support, preferably wooden (it will prevent the plant from freezing in winter). In regions with cold winters, roses require shelter. With the onset of frost from minus 5 °C, the shoots are removed from the supports and laid on the ground. It is better to place it on dry leaves or spruce branches and cover with the same materials. A film is laid on top of this natural protection. In spring, the cover is removed and the rose is returned to its support.

When laying rose branches on a support, you should remember that the shoots need to be fixed not vertically, but horizontally, obliquely or in a spiral, then the plant’s forces will be directed not to the growth of shoots, but to the formation of flowers.

When caring for climbing roses in open ground, pruning is a necessary step. This is the key to healthy appearance and abundant flowering. In spring it is necessary to prune frozen and weak branches, and after flowering, it is advisable to prune those shoots that have flowered, which will be an excellent incentive for the formation of new replacement shoots and rejuvenation of the bush.

This plant is especially beautiful when in bloom. But growing climbing roses in the middle latitudes of Russia requires a lot of effort. The plant is planted in early spring. To do this, the gardener must choose a specific place on his site. It should not be a very cold, but not hot area, located in direct sunlight. If we talk about what soil is optimal for such a rose, then it is best to bring loamy and fertile soil to the site.

Thus, in order to grow climbing roses as lush as possible, pleasing with their sophistication and beauty, it is necessary to carry out a number of manipulations:

plant the seedling in the right way;
feed the seedling in a timely manner;
cover for winter cold;
open on time spring period– with the onset of heat;
trim properly.

When growing climbing roses in open ground, it is necessary to carry out preventive control of pests and plant diseases.

Planting and caring for climbing roses is shown in this video:

How to propagate climbing roses from cuttings

Cuttings are a method known to both amateurs and professionals. The question rightly arises about the reason for such popularity. The answer lies in the number of plants obtained and the high probability of rooting. A shoot is selected 10 days after flowering, which should have about three buds ready to grow.

Before propagating climbing roses, the cuttings need to be prepared. This is done in advance. The width of the cuttings should vary from 0.5-0.7 cm, length - from 16 to 20 cm. The cut should be straight at the top and at an angle of 45 degrees at the bottom. A beveled cut under the bud at the bottom is necessary for roots to grow from the bud. At the next stage, the cuttings must be kept in the growth solution “Kornevin” or “Heteroauxin” for 12 hours. Finally, the seedling must be planted in soil with a mixture of earth and sand.

It is also possible to propagate cuttings in water. Afterwards, you should cover the future roses with a jar or, in the case of using water, cover them with film. This is done to maintain the desired level of humidity around the plant.

When propagating climbing roses, it is important to observe the following conditions: constant air temperature from 22 to 24 degrees; sufficient lighting; do not remove the film or jar until rooting.

Roses are grafted onto rosehips in order to obtain earth-resistant seedlings more quickly and cheaper. And roses with their own roots can achieve such a result only after three years. This is less profitable for producers due to the rise in price of seedlings due to an increase in their cost. Self-rooted roses are obtained by cutting a cutting that has three buds. And in order to graft a rose hip, only one bud is used. This is more profitable for the manufacturer.

The next section of the article is devoted to how to choose climbing roses suitable for the climatic conditions of Russia.

How to choose climbing roses: winter hardiness of plants

It is worth considering that in conditions middle zone In Russia, the length of the shoots on the bushes is more modest, and the flowering is not so long and abundant. The main disadvantage of climbing roses in this area is the need to cover them for the winter, for which purpose every year late autumn, the whips have to be removed from the supports, bent in the ground and covered.

Another secret when breeding climbing roses is correct selection varieties. Of the numerous varieties offered in companies and shopping centers, not all will grow well and bloom profusely on your site. Sometimes you have to try many varieties to choose the most suitable one for a given place. However, for true flower lovers, these difficulties are not an obstacle. Often in our relatively harsh zone you can see garden compositions with roses blooming profusely.

The culture of climbing roses in Europe dates back about 200 years. During this time, dozens of varieties and forms of climbing roses have been bred, however, European varieties have not become widespread in our country, as has the culture of climbing roses itself, due to insufficient winter hardiness European varieties in Russian conditions.

Before today It was not possible to select a single reliable, wintering variety even for the south of the Black Earth Region, where short-term winter frosts down to –28…–30 °C are not uncommon.

In frosty winter conditions, the entire above-ground part of bushes of European varieties freezes to the level of snow, while only powerful, developed bushes, whose shoots of previous years of development have overwintered well, can give an excellent decorative effect. None of these varieties have natural leaf fall in our conditions. The leaves remain green until frost, and then freeze. Unripe annual shoots die off during winter frosts, becoming a “gateway” for the penetration of fungal and viral infections and usually lead to the death of the entire bush.

Such roses can winter in Russia only under cover, for which the shoots must be annually removed from the supports, tied, cleared of foliage, non-woody shoots cut out and covered with spruce branches, burlap, and spunbond. Since the covering procedure is complex and time-consuming, covering varieties of roses have no prospects in mass gardening.

The search for winter-hardy species of climbing roses and the breeding of uncovered roses for Russian conditions is one of the urgent and interesting tasks.

Work on breeding winter-hardy, uncovered roses for Russian gardens is currently being carried out by Ph.D. agricultural sciences, head Department of Scientific Research and Innovative Development of the Rossoshansky Zonal Experimental Station of Horticulture in Voronezh. A. I. Sychev.

Breeding varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses (with photos)

Taking into account that the genetic material for breeding varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses must be sought among little-studied species of roses or hybrids with frost-resistant species as one of the parents.

Roses caught the researcher's attention Cordes is a cultigenic new group of roses, created in the middle of the last century by the German rose breeder W. Cordes.

The basis of the new group of roses was a spontaneous hybrid of the climbing rose Vihurayana and the rugosa rose (R. rugosa).

Hybrid, called "Max Graf" ("Max Graf") belongs to the climbers, blooms profusely with simple flowers, but does not bear fruit due to the genetic distance of the parents. On the bushes of this variety, growing in the Kordes nursery, a bud mutation occurred, as a result of which the number of chromosomes doubled and two fruits were born on the matted branch. One of the seedlings grown from the seeds of these fruits turned out to be tetraploid and became the founder of a new group of roses. Thanks to the genes of rugose rose, which can withstand frosts down to -40 °C or more without shelter, Cordes roses are much more winter-hardy than older varieties of climbing roses. However, the genes of the Vihurayana rose do not allow Cordes roses to winter in Russia without shelter.

This statement also applies to the most winter-hardy of the Cordes climbing roses - the Flammentanz variety. ("Flammentanz") - the best red climbing rose for the Russian climate, grown in a cover crop. Bright red semi-double flowers of this variety are collected in small inflorescences. The first flowering of the variety at the beginning of summer is exceptionally abundant, and during the second wave of flowering, 40–50 flowers are formed at the ends of the shoots.

Rose "Flammentanz" can be used as a genetic basis for breeding winter-hardy, uncovered roses. To do this, it is necessary to increase the winter hardiness of its offspring by 6–7°C, expand the color palette and increase the broadness.

Due to their tetraploidy, Cordes roses can easily be crossed with modern varieties of hybrid tea, floribunda and climbing varieties. Hybrids with “Flammentanz” have large double, semi-double and single flowers, collected in small inflorescences of predominantly red, crimson and pink colors. They usually bloom once, but some hybrids have the ability to bloom repeatedly. In terms of winter hardiness, they are significantly superior to hybrid tea roses, but slightly inferior to Flammentanz. One of best hybrids called "Nostalgia". This is a vigorous climbing rose with shoots up to 4–5 m long with large dark red double flowers.

Attempts to cross “Flammentanz” with winter-hardy park roses, for example, the “Frühlingsgold” variety of winter-hardy prickly rose (R. pimpinellifolia) did not bring success. Most of the hybrids turned out to be of the bush type, with light flowers with a “weak”, thin texture of the petals and low winter hardiness. Pollination of "Flammentanz" with rose hip pollen

Rose Vihurayana (« R. wichuraiana"), originally from Korea, southern Japan, and China, it often grows as a creeping plant. The climbing shoots of this species are covered with shiny evergreen small foliage, which it passes on to its varieties. The winter hardiness of this species and the varieties bred on its basis is even lower than that of the multifloral rose.

The most common variety is Excelsa. (« Excelsa") is damaged by frost at –18… – 20 °C. However, despite the need for annual shelter, this rose is widely grown in central Russia as one of the most stable, unpretentious and abundantly flowering climbing varieties.

Climbing roses from the group of climbers are most often climbing clones of common low-winter-hardy hybrid tea roses, floribunda roses, remontant roses and differ little from them in winter hardiness. The shoots of these roses freeze at –15…–20 °C.

IN last years new ones were brought into our country winter-hardy roses Canadian selection. One of the climbing roses, "William Baffin" ( "William Buffin"), after three years of testing in Rossoshi, showed higher winter hardiness than Flamentanz.

The search for winter-hardy species among wild ramblers was crowned with the discovery of the Maksimovich rose, which grows in northern China, Korea, and is quite common in southern Primorye ( R. maximowicziana).

Rose Maksimovich is a shrub with climbing or creeping shoots 5–6 m long. The leaves are leathery, shiny, decorative, consist of 7–9 pairs of leaflets, leaflets are 2–4 cm long, reminiscent of the evergreen leaves of the Vihurayana rose. In nature, roses form thickets on rocky and sandy soils on coastal slopes and in floodplains no further than 20–40 km from the sea coast. It is very important that the development of the Maksimovich rose completely fits into the growing season of the middle zone, natural leaf fall occurs in the fall, and the fruits fully ripen in September. The rose is completely winter-hardy in Rossosh, Moscow (GBS) and in the south of Western Siberia.

The flowers of the Maksimovich rose are 2.5–5 cm in diameter, collected in corymbose-paniculate inflorescences of 5–7 pieces, the petals are creamy yellow. The shoots of Maksimovich roses overwinter in Voronezh and the Moscow region directly on supports, without shelter, in the spring they are not damaged, and in the summer the bushes bloom profusely. In Moscow, the Maksimovich rose at 10 years old reaches a height of 2.6 m, the diameter of the bush is up to 3 m.

These photos show varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses:

Rose Maksimovich sets fruit well when pollinated by pollen of climbing diploid varieties of small-flowered roses.

Among hundreds of seedlings from pollination of the varieties “Thousandshon”, “Ave Maria” (« Ave Maria") and unnamed local roses, the breeder selected specimens with decorative flowers and, more importantly, timely completion of the growing season.

The most interesting are the seedlings from the family Rosa Maksimovicha × Thousandshon.

They are distinguished by their strong climbing growth (up to 5 m in length), have double or semi-double flowers of various structures, petal shapes, colors and flowering periods. The size of the flowers is not large, which corresponds to the size of the flowers of the group of ramblers, but the flowers are collected in racemes from 3–5 to 20–30 pieces. There are seedlings with fragrant flowers.

Look at the photos of climbing rose varieties described above:

How climbing roses of different groups bloom

According to the world classification, two groups are distinguished among climbing roses:

Ramblers (Ramblers) And climbers (Large flowered climbers).

The first group includes wild species from the section Synstylae and closely related species garden forms. As a rule, these are powerful species with shoots up to 3–6 m high, blooming once in early summer, with small simple flowers in multi-flowered inflorescences. The second group includes complex hybrids, products of long-term selection with large flowers and repeated (remontant) flowering.

Roses from the ramblers group are the most winter-hardy and promising for introduction to Russia. An analysis of the pedigree of modern European climbing roses - ramblers - showed that two wild species from China and Japan were used as the initial genetic material.

Look how climbing roses of different groups bloom in these photos:

The first is multifloral or polyanthus rose (R. multiflora). In mild winters, it overwinters well in Russia without shelter, but in frosts down to –30 °C, the shoots freeze to the level of snow. In old gardening manuals, varieties of this rose are called among the most winter-hardy climbing roses for Russia. In order to obtain beautifully flowering varieties, multifloral roses were crossed with non-winter-hardy remontant, hybrid tea, and tea roses, so the varieties have lower winter hardiness.

In our country, old varieties of multifloral roses are common, for example “Tauzenshon” (« Tausendschon"). Varieties of rose multiflorum retain the large stipules characteristic of the species, fringed along the edges.

Varieties of climbing roses: photos, names and descriptions

Among the most common varieties of climbing roses are the following:

"Aglaya" (Aglaia) has large flowers, collected in large inflorescences, double petals, straw-yellowish in color. The spreading bush blooms profusely.

"Alberic Barbier" (Alberic Barbier) has small buds yellow color. The name for this variety of climbing roses was given by French breeders who developed this form. The flowers are large, collected in small inflorescences, double petals, creamy yellow at the edges and yellow in the center. The aroma is fragrant. Shiny leaves of beautiful shape, dark color. The climbing bush blooms profusely starting in June.

"American Pillar" (American Pillar) are distinguished by large open flowers, reaching a diameter of 7 cm, collected in large inflorescences and located on strong shoots. Petals are non-double, carmine- Pink colour, white eye, golden stamens. Large leathery leaves, shiny. When describing this variety of climbing roses, it is especially worth noting their height and power - strong bushes reach a height of 6 m and bloom profusely from May to June.

"Blaze" (Blaze) has large cup-shaped flowers collected in large inflorescences. Petals are semi-double, bright red. The aroma is faint. Leaves are leathery. A strong bush with a spreading crown blooms profusely and repeatedly. The variety is propagated by cutting, grafting and layering.

"Wartburg" (Wartburg) has small flowers collected in large inflorescences, double petals, raspberry-pink in color. The aroma is fragrant. A vigorous bush with smooth shoots, devoid of thorns, blooms profusely.

"Hiawatha" (Hiawatha) is not different big flowers, reaching a diameter of 3.5 cm, which are collected in inflorescences of 10–30 pieces. The petals are single, carmine-red in color, white in the center. The leathery leaves are shiny. The strong bush reaches a height of 3 m, flowering occurs later than other varieties of this species.

"Dorothy Perkins" (Dorothy Perkins) has small flowers up to 3 cm in diameter, collected in large inflorescences. The petals are densely double, bright pink with a salmon tint. Large leaves are shiny, dark green in color. Strong climbing bush blooms profusely in June.

"Crimson Rambler" (Crimson Rambler) has medium-sized flowers collected in large pyramidal racemes. The petals are bright crimson-red, when they fade, they acquire a bluish tint. Leathery large leaves of light green color. The bush is strong and climbing.

"Climbing Minnehaha" (Minnehaha) is distinguished by small flowers collected in inflorescences. The petals are double and pink. The aroma is weak. The vigorous bush reaches a height of 3.5–4 m, blooms once in late spring - early summer, and is propagated by cuttings and layering.

"Feilchenblau" (Veilchenblau) has small cup-shaped flowers. Petals are semi-double, bright purple. The aroma is fragrant.

Here are photos of varieties of climbing roses, the descriptions of which are given above:

Climbing roses in garden design and photos of plants at flowering time

Vertical gardening is important in garden design. And it’s not only about the decorative effect, but also about the ability to divide the site into zones, hide from curious neighbors or disguise an unsightly building.

There are many plants that are used for vertical gardening, and not the least role among them is played by the rose.

Climbing roses can be used very widely in garden design. For example, decorate a fence, the wall of a building or a gazebo. You can braid an arch, a pergola over a gate, bench or path, or decorate a retaining wall. It can be planted near special supports installed in flower beds, front gardens, and on lawns.

Moreover, for each composition it is necessary to select varieties that are most suitable for each other in texture, fullness and color of flowers and other decorative characteristics.

Climbing roses are first-class plants for vertical gardening, wall decoration, decoration public places and recreation areas. In China and Japan, these plants have been used in landscaping for many centuries.

See what climbing roses look like in the garden in these photos:

To successfully breed these plants, you need to know about one of their features: the more evenly the vine is illuminated, the more flower buds are formed along the entire length of the shoot. And although modern varieties bloom quite evenly, we must not forget about this nuance. How to care for climbing roses in the garden to achieve optimal lighting? This can be done by placing the lashes horizontally or at least with a slight slope.

If you know about this property, then thanks to proper garter and the formation of lashes, you can increase the number of flowers, which will significantly affect the overall decorative effect.

Varieties with flexible shoots, such as Super Excelsa, Super Dorothy, should be used to decorate narrow arches and pergolas, pillars or obelisks.

When forming, the whip can be tied to the arch with a snake or simply wrapped in a spiral around a pillar or obelisk. This simple technique will allow the rose to bloom more abundantly.

Large-flowered roses of the Flamentanz type, in which the shoots are more powerful, it is preferable to decorate with wide decorative trellises: it is convenient to fan out the lashes on them.

If the variety has good shoot-forming ability, then uniform flowering can be achieved by pruning. To do this, the shoots are cut at different heights, which stimulates their growth.

In addition to the usual options for using climbing roses, there are also not quite standard ones. You can use rose to decorate old fruit tree. In this case, it is best to plant it on the south side, finding a place between the tree roots and retreating 50 cm from the trunk. You can also dig in a root stop (for example, a piece of old linoleum or plastic) and a piece of wide pipe or plastic bottle without a bottom for spot watering and feeding roses. Next, the lashes need to be tied to the trunk in the intended direction.

Another interesting technique is to use a climbing rose as ground cover plant. This will look especially advantageous on a slope. The shoots can simply be laid on the ground, or even better, slightly raised and secured on low arches. A river of flowers flowing down the slope will amaze the imagination of all your guests.

Varieties of climbing roses that grow well in width and have hard shoots, for example Rozarium Uetersen, suitable for solitary planting on the lawn. They can be given the required forum (shape) by trimming, as is the case with scrubs.

How to form short plants, some vigorous varieties can also be formed English roses. To care for climbing roses correctly, as experienced gardeners advise, you need to maintain the length of the shoots, trim them moderately and form the vines on a support. Wide screens or obelisks are suitable as supports.

The following varieties are good for this role:

Crown Princess Margaretha

Gertrude Jekyll

A Shropshire Lad

The Pilgrim and others

As for companions for climbing roses, the best of them are clematis. When selecting clematis, you need to achieve harmonious combinations using contrast in shape or color. You also need to consider the flowering time of both species; it is clear that they must bloom at the same time. Finally, the growth habit of the chosen varieties of both rose and clematis must be taken into account. Clematis usually develop faster, so it is preferable to plant the rose first, give it at least a year to take root and grow, and only then plant the clematis next to it.

A certain distance must be maintained between the climbing rose and the clematis, at least 60 cm. Moreover, if the rose needs to be directed to a support, then it is enough to help the clematis only at the very beginning. And then this steeplejack will do just fine on his own, using the rose as a support.

As you know, in the middle zone both roses and clematis need to be covered for the winter. In this regard, it is often argued which clematis are preferable - the second or third pruning group (read more about this in the third chapter), which of them are more convenient to cover with roses. Many people think that the varieties of the third group are much better suited: for the winter, the lashes can simply be cut at a height of 20 cm, there is no need to untangle or remove anything from the rose. In reality, varieties from both groups may be suitable. The fact is that many clematis of the third group are very powerful, tall, with a large number of shoots, and not every climbing rose can withstand such a neighborhood. Sometimes it is worth choosing elegant and modest clematis of the second group. And covering them is not so difficult: it is enough to trim the vines at the level of a meter, trim the foliage and cover the clematis along with the rose.

The underside of a climbing rose may become bare with age. To decorate the lower part, you can plant roses of another group around, such as ground cover or floribunda, or companion plants that match the color.

In the climate of the middle zone, growing a climbing rose is not so easy. For her to appear in all her glory, she needs to be provided favorable conditions wintering. When planning a flower garden, you need to immediately foresee where you will place these, in general, rather large roses for the winter. To avoid disappointment, when choosing a climbing rose variety, pay attention to its winter hardiness and resistance to disease and precipitation. Read online reviews about it left by rose growers in your area. climate zone. Explore agrotechnical requirements, the most important of which is proper pruning. In addition, powerful climbing roses for lush flowering timely and balanced feeding is necessary. Don’t forget to tie the lashes in time. It is undesirable to use rigid wire for these purposes; I use plastic clamps or string made of natural material. At the same time, you should not tie the lashes to the support too tightly.

It is often recommended to plant climbing roses with a slight slope in the direction where you plan to lay the vines in the fall. It doesn't really matter; I didn’t notice a difference in the bending between the roses that I planted according to science and those planted straight. If the variety has flexible shoots, it is easy to plant for any planting. And to bend roses with stiff shoots to the ground, you always need to make an effort.

When planting a rose near a fence or wall of a house, make sure that there is good air circulation between the plant and the wall. Also, remember that many materials get very hot on hot days, which will have a negative effect on your flowers. Therefore, roses must be mounted on a decorative lattice, which should be at least 10 cm away from the wall. And lastly. If you decide to decorate the wall of your house with a climbing rose, pay attention to where the water flows from the roof: it should not pour on the rose.

climbing roses- these are types of rose hips and some varieties of garden roses with long branching shoots. All of them are representatives of the Rosehip genus and occupy one of the leading places in the vertical gardening of gazebos, walls and buildings, combining perfectly with architectural forms of large and small sizes. Climbing roses are indispensable when creating decorative garden structures such as pyramids, columns, garlands, arbors and arches. They look great in compositions with other flowers and plants, so they are as popular as any bush or indoor rose.

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Planting and caring for climbing roses (in brief)

Landing: from the last ten days of September to mid-October or from mid-April to the end of May.
Bloom: from late spring to late autumn.
Lighting: bright light in the first half of the day, diffused light or partial shade in the second.
The soil: optimal - moisture-permeable fertile loam with deep groundwater.
Watering: once every 7-10 days, spending 1-2 buckets of water on each bush.
Feeding: bushes of the first year are fed only in August with potassium fertilizer, bushes of the second year are fed with full mineral and organic fertilizers alternately, making 5 feedings per season, and from the third year of life, roses are fed in the same regime, but exclusively with organic matter. During flowering, roses are not fertilized.
Garter: as a support you can use a fence, a house wall, a dry tree or special structures - gratings, arches and arcs made of metal rods. The shoots are tied to the support with twine.
Trimming: in spring and autumn.
Reproduction: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting.
Pests: aphids, spider mites, thrips, roseate sawflies, leaf rollers, cicadas.
Diseases: powdery mildew, bacterial cancer, koniothyrium, gray rot, black spot.

Read more about growing climbing roses below.

Climbing roses - description

Give general description climbing roses, the task is too difficult due to their huge diversity, so we suggest that you first familiarize yourself with the classification of climbing roses accepted in international floriculture practice.

The first group of climbing roses, the so-called climbing roses, or Rambler roses, are plants with long creeping or arched flexible bright green thorny stems up to five meters or more in length. The leaves of the Rambler climbing rose are leathery, shiny and small. The flowers are slightly fragrant, simple, semi-double or double, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, collected in inflorescences and located along the entire length of the shoot. The abundant flowering of climbing roses of this group lasts a little more than a month in the first half of summer. Most varieties are frost-resistant and overwinter well under light shelter. Plants of the Rambler group originated from species such as the Vihura rose and the multifloral rose (multiflora).

As a result of crossing a group of rambler roses with tea, hybrid tea, remontant roses and floribunda roses, a group of climbing roses was formed with shoots up to four meters long, which were called climbing roses, or climbing roses. large-flowered roses– climbers. Roses of this group bloom profusely with large flowers - from 4 cm in diameter or more - collected in small loose inflorescences; many varieties bloom twice per season. The shape of the flowers resembles hybrid tea roses. Plants of this group are relatively winter-hardy and are almost not affected by powdery mildew.

The third group, Climbing, was formed by mutating large-flowered bush roses - hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda. Climings differ from the producing species only in their stronger growth, later fruiting and even larger flowers - from four to eleven centimeters in diameter, which grow singly or in small inflorescences. Many climbing varieties bloom repeatedly. Roses of this group are grown only in the southern regions of the temperate zone with mild, warm winters.

Planting climbing roses

When and where to plant climbing roses

All types of roses are quite capricious - it’s not for nothing that the rose is called the queen of flowers. Climbing roses are no exception - planting and caring for climbing roses must be thought out to the smallest detail, and growing climbing roses should begin with choosing a site. These plants need bright light in the first half of the day so that the sun can dry the dew on the leaves and leave no chance for fungal diseases to settle on the roses, but the midday sun can already cause burns on the leaves and delicate petals of the plant, so in the afternoon the area with climbing roses must be protected from direct rays. In addition, the place where climbing roses grow must be protected from the cold north and northeast wind, and the location of a climbing rose on the corner of a building is undesirable due to drafts that depress the delicate plant. It is best to place climbing roses on the south side of the building, especially since they do not require much space - for planting roses, a strip of land fifty centimeters wide is enough, provided that the nearest wall, plant or any other object is no closer to the rose than half a meter to a meter.

The soil for climbing roses must be permeable, but where groundwater is too close to the surface, roses are planted on specially constructed elevations - the root system of climbing roses sometimes goes two meters deep. To avoid stagnation of water in the roots, roses are planted in an area located on a slope, at least minimally. Of all types of soil, loam is most suitable for climbing roses. Too light sandy or heavy clay soils will have to be adapted: sand is added to the clay for digging to the depth of a spade bayonet, and clay is added to sandy soil, and in order for the soils to become fertile, humus or humus must be added to them along with bone meal as a phosphorus fertilizer . It is necessary to prepare the area for the rose in advance - preferably six months or at least a month or two before planting.

As for planting dates, in temperate climates it is best to plant roses from the last ten days of September to mid-October. You can plant roses in the spring - from mid-April to the end of May.

Planting a climbing rose in autumn

Before moving on to describing the landing process, it makes sense to talk about what planting material prefer. Both seedlings of self-rooted roses and seedlings of roses grafted onto rose hips are available for sale. What's the difference between them? Grafted roses differ from self-rooted roses in that their root represents one plant, and the shoots represent another, that is, the scion of a varietal climbing rose is grafted onto the root of a rose hip. Therefore, planting and caring for a grafted rose, although slightly, differ from planting and caring for a rooted rose. For example, the planting depth of a grafted rose should be such that the grafting site is 10 cm below the surface level. A grafted rose planted in this way begins to form roots from the cultivated part of the bush, and the rosehip roots, losing their purpose, gradually die off. If the grafting site is left above the surface, the plant will become depleted and eventually die, since the cultivated part of the seedling is evergreen, and rosehip is a deciduous plant, and this discrepancy between the scion and rootstock will lead to a sad end if planted incorrectly.

Seedlings of climbing roses with an open root system should be soaked in water for a day before planting. Then you need to remove leaves from the shoots, trim immature and broken shoots with pruning shears, dusting the cuts with crushed coal, shorten both the roots and the above-ground part to 30 cm, remove the buds from the grafted seedlings located below the grafting site so that rose hips do not develop from them. After this, the seedlings are disinfected by immersing them in a three percent solution of copper sulfate.

Planting holes for climbing roses are dug 50x50 in size, keeping a distance of at least a meter between them. The top, fertile layer of soil, removed from each hole, is mixed with half a bucket of manure and part of this mixture is poured into the holes, then the holes are well watered. This should be done a day or two before planting. On the day of planting, prepare a mixture for pre-planting treatment of rose roots. To do this, dissolve three tablets of phosphorobacterin and one tablet of heteroauxin in half a liter of water and pour this solution into nine and a half liters of clay mash. Dip the roots of the seedling into the mash before lowering them into the hole. Place a mound of soil and manure mixture at the bottom of the hole, place a seedling on it, the roots of which have been treated with mash, carefully straighten the roots, cover them with the same mixture of soil and manure and compact the surface thoroughly. And remember: the grafting site of a rose grafted onto a rose hip should be at a depth of about ten centimeters underground, and the root neck of a rose hip should be no less than five centimeters. After planting, the rose is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, soil is added to the tree trunk circle and the seedling is hilled to a height of at least 20 cm.

Planting a climbing rose in spring

Climbing roses planted in the spring are two weeks behind in development compared to roses planted in the fall and require more attention. Before planting, the shoots of seedlings are shortened to 15-20 cm, and the roots to 30 cm. After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, hilled high and covered with film to create greenhouse conditions that contribute to faster survival of the seedlings. The film must be lifted every day for a few minutes to ventilate the seedlings. It is advisable to gradually increase the ventilation time, since at the same time the seedlings are hardening. When the threat of return frosts has passed, the film is removed and the area is mulched. If you planted roses after frost in dry, warm weather, after planting, mulch the tree trunks with peat or any other suitable material.

Caring for climbing roses in the garden

How to care for a climbing rose

Caring for climbing roses consists of regular watering of the plant, fertilizing, pruning, control possible diseases or pests and in preparation for winter. Due to their structure, climbing roses need support. Climbing roses are quite drought-resistant, and large quantities they do not need water - they are moistened once a week or a decade according to the principle “less is better, but more often,” that is, 1-2 buckets of water are spent on each bush. To prevent water from spreading, make a circle around trunk circle low earthen rampart. Two to three days after watering, in order to retain moisture in the soil and provide air access to the roots, loosen the soil around the bush to a depth of 5-6 cm. To reduce the labor intensity of caring for roses, mulch the soil around the tree trunk with peat, then water and loosen you will have to soil much less often.

Young bushes are not fed until August, since the nutrients contained in the soil have not yet been used up; closer to autumn, a solution of potassium salts is added to the soil to prepare the roses for wintering. It is best to use an infusion of wood ash for these purposes. When feeding bushes in the second year of life, organic fertilizers are alternated with mineral ones, and from the third year they switch exclusively to organic fertilizers, which can be used as a solution of one liter of manure and a glass of wood ash in a bucket of water. Manure can be replaced with any other organic fertilizer. During the growing season it is necessary to apply at least five fertilizing applications. Fertilizers are not applied during flowering.

Support for climbing roses

The variety of supports for climbing roses is amazing: you can use an old dry tree, a lattice or arch made of metal, wood or polymers, as well as metal rods bent in an arc as a support. However, no other plant will decorate a faceless wall or an unattractive building like climbing roses, planted no closer than half a meter from the wall. Place a lattice or vertical guides on the wall to which you will tie growing and flowering shoots, and an unremarkable structure will be transformed. However, you should know that on horizontally located vines flowers appear along their entire length, and on vertically mounted ones - only in their upper part.

Plastic twine is used as fastening material, and in no case do they resort to wire, coming up with all sorts of tricks, for example, wrapping the wire in paper or fabric. The stems are firmly attached to the support, taking care, however, that the twine does not injure the stem. Inspect the supports regularly, as they sometimes break under the weight of branches or the wind, and this can cause severe damage to the plant. dig in supporting structure you need no closer than 30-50 cm from the bush.

Transplanting climbing roses

An adult plant is usually replanted only for the sake of saving it, if time has shown that the place for the rose was chosen poorly. Climbing roses are replanted in the fall - in September or early October, no later, so that the plant has time to take root in its new location before winter. Sometimes transplantation is carried out in the spring, before the kidneys awaken. Before transplanting, roses are removed from their support, all young shoots are kept from the ramblers, but their tops are pinched at the end of August to speed up the lignification of the shoots, and shoots older than two years are removed. For climbers and climbers, all long shoots are shortened by half. Then the bushes are carefully dug in a circle, stepping back from the center at a distance equal to two bayonets of a shovel. You need to dig deep, trying to keep the entire root system intact. Having dug up the plant, shake off the soil from its roots, cut off the torn and shaggy ends of the roots with pruning shears and transplant the plant into a pre-prepared hole, straightening the roots when planting so that they do not bend. After you fill the hole with soil mixture, compact the surface and water generously. After a few days, when the soil settles, add more soil mixture to level the surface of the area, and do not forget to hill the plant high.

Pests and diseases of climbing roses

Among insects, climbing roses are bothered by aphids and spider mites. If the rose is not completely infested with aphids, try to control the pests with folk remedies without resorting to chemicals. You can remove aphids mechanically: hold a bud, leaf or stem with your gloved hands and remove the aphids. This method is good if the aphids have just appeared, but if they have already taken root on your rose and have begun to multiply, grate the soap, fill it with water, let the solution brew and, when the soap dissolves, strain the solution and spray the roses with it. If this measure does not produce results, buy an insecticide against aphids in the store, which is marked “for roses and grapes,” and treat the rose with it, choosing a quiet, windless evening for this. As for spider mites, they appear on plants only during the dry, hot period if you chronically forget to water them. Ticks settle on the underside of leaves, feed on their sap, entangling the leaves with cobwebs. The leaves of the affected plant acquire a silvery tint. In the fight against spider mite these have proven themselves well folk remedies, like infusions of yarrow, wormwood, tobacco or shag, after treatment with which 80 to 100% of insects die on the third day. An infusion of wormwood is made as follows: place half a kilogram of fresh wormwood in a wooden vessel and pour ten liters cold water and leave for two weeks to ferment, then filter the starter, dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:10 and treat the rose and the soil around it with the composition. If the situation requires urgent measures, treating the plant with Fitoverm will help, which can be repeated after two weeks if necessary. The method of use and dosage are indicated in the instructions for use of the drug.

Roses also have other pests - rose sawfly, cicada, leaf roller, thrips, but if you follow the conditions of the plant's agricultural practices, they will not become a problem for you. As a preventive measure, you can plant marigolds around the rose - this proximity will save the rose from many troubles. In addition, develop the habit of carrying out preventive spraying of roses with Bordeaux mixture in spring and autumn.

The most dangerous diseases for roses are koniothyrium, bacterial canker, powdery mildew, gray rot and black spot.

Bacterial cancer manifests itself as lumpy soft growths of varying sizes, which over time harden and darken from decomposition. The rose dries up and dies. There is no cure for bacterial cancer. Carefully inspect the planting material before purchasing, and before planting, disinfect the roots of the seedlings for two to three minutes in a three percent solution of copper sulfate. If you find signs of disease on an adult bush, immediately remove suspicious parts of the plant and treat the wounds with a solution of copper sulfate of the same consistency.

Koniothirium – a fungal disease, the so-called bark cancer or burn. It is discovered in the spring, when the cover is removed from the roses: red-brown spots appear on the bark, gradually turning black and turning into rings around the shoot. Such shoots should be immediately cut off, capturing part of the healthy tissue, and burned to avoid infecting other plants. To avoid disease, you should stop adding nitrogen before wintering, replacing it with potassium fertilizers, which strengthen plant tissue. In addition, during thaws, you need to ventilate roses under cover.

Powdery mildew looks like a whitish coating on the above-ground parts of the plant, which over time acquires a brown tint. Contributes to the appearance of the disease high humidity air and sudden temperature fluctuations, excess nitrogen in the soil and improper watering. All affected parts of the plant are cut out and burned, after which the rose is treated with a three percent solution of iron or a two percent solution of copper sulfate.

Black spot manifested by the appearance on the leaves of dark red-brown spots with a yellow rim, which merge with the development of the disease, causing premature falling of the leaves. The disease can be prevented by autumn fertilizing of roses with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers at the root, as well as three-stage treatment of the bush and the ground around it with a three percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or iron sulphate at weekly intervals.

Gray rot destroys stems, shoots, buds and leaves of climbing roses, sharply reduces their decorative value, reducing the intensity of flowering. If the disease has taken hold, the plant will have to be dug up and destroyed, but if you find it at the very beginning, you can destroy the fungal infection by treating the bush with a solution of 100 g of Bordeaux mixture in a bucket of water. If it is not possible to defeat the disease in one go, the treatment can be repeated three more times at weekly intervals.

Sometimes, with absolute and obvious health, a climbing rose does not bloom, and you study rose diseases and their symptoms with bewilderment, but cannot understand what the reason is. Sometimes the fact is that you bought an unsuccessful variety - one that blooms poorly, and besides, the location or composition of the soil turned out to be not what the rose requires. Or maybe it’s because last year’s shoots didn’t survive the winter well. Analyze all the information about climbing roses, and you will definitely find the reason.

Pruning climbing roses

When to prune climbing roses

Pruning climbing roses is necessary to form a crown, stimulate abundant flowering throughout the entire height of the bush and to support the decorativeness of the plant decorating a particular object. Proper pruning can ensure almost continuous flowering of roses throughout the growing season. Special attention should be given to vegetative shoots, since the flowering of the bush mainly occurs on the shoots of last year. Pruning is carried out in spring and autumn. At the beginning of the growing season, dead shoots and frostbitten areas are removed from climbing roses of any group, and the ends of the shoots are cut to a strong outer bud. Subsequent pruning depends on how many times your rose blooms during the growing season - once or more.

How to prune climbing roses

Roses that bloom once per season form flowers on the shoots of the previous year. Instead of faded (basal) shoots, from three to ten restoration shoots are formed, which will bloom next year, so the basal shoots after flowering must be cut at the root, and this should be done better in autumn, when preparing the plant for winter. In repeat-blooming roses, within three years, flowering branches of different orders are formed on the main shoots - from two to five. The flowering of these shoots weakens by the fifth year, so the main shoots in early spring should be cut to the ground after the fourth year. Reblooming bushes should have one to three annual restoration shoots and three to seven main flowering shoots. However most of Climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, from which only the tops with underdeveloped buds are removed in the spring.

Particular attention should be paid to young grafted roses planted this or last year: until the cultivated scion acquires its own root system, the roots of the rosehip rootstock will produce abundant growth, which must be removed immediately. In a year or two, when the rosehip root dies, the shoots will begin to produce scion roots.

Propagation of climbing roses

How to propagate climbing roses

Climbing roses are propagated by seeds, as well as by layering, cuttings and grafting. The easiest way to propagate a rose is by layering, and propagation by cuttings gives good results. As for seed propagation, it is better to buy seed for this purpose in a store, since seeds collected from roses growing in the garden do not retain the varietal characteristics of the parent plant, so it is not known what kind of rose will grow from them. However, it's worth a try for the sake of experimentation: after all, what are you risking?

Growing climbing roses from seeds

Buy in a store or collect rose seeds growing in your garden, place them in a sieve and dip them in a bowl with hydrogen peroxide for half an hour - this measure helps disinfect the seeds and prevents the appearance of mold during the subsequent stratification of the seed. Then spread the seeds on cotton pads soaked in hydrogen peroxide and cover the top with the same peroxide-soaked discs, place these “sandwiches” in individual plastic bags, write the date and name of the variety on them, put them in a container and put them in the vegetable section of the refrigerator. Check the condition of the seeds from time to time, and if you notice mold, soak them in peroxide again, replace the disks with new ones soaked in the same composition, and put them in the refrigerator again. After one and a half to two months, transfer the sprouted seeds to individual peat tablets or pots, mulching the surface with a thin layer of perlite to avoid infection with “black leg”. Seedlings will need ten hours of daylight and watering as the soil dries out. With normal development of seedlings, the first buds will appear within two months after planting the seeds in pots, and after another month and a half, the first flowers will open. Continue caring for the seedlings, feed them with a weak solution complex fertilizer, and in the spring plant in open ground and care for it as you would an adult plant.

Climbing rose – perennial, creating an unforgettable atmosphere in any corner of the garden. Roses have become so popular that you rarely find a garden where they are not grown.

Due to its long shoots, it can decorate unattractive buildings, envelop arches and gazebos with fragrant flowers, and also create a dense flowering wall. There are several options for propagating climbing roses. These methods are simple and even a novice gardener can do it.

Which breeding method to choose?

Walking past a beautifully blooming cascade of fragrant roses, you often wonder how a climbing rose reproduces. There are many methods: cuttings, seeds, layering. Any of these methods must be applied in summer or spring so that by the time of autumn planting the plant has grown a full-fledged root system.

Reproduction by seeds is a difficult and painstaking task, only possible experienced flower growers. This is due to the fact that a rose propagated in this way can be very different from the mother bush, which will greatly disappoint the owner.

The simplest methods of propagating climbing roses are cuttings and layering. By using one of these methods, you can get the plant you like in a short time. Cuttings can be taken from the bush you like without causing harm to it. For layering, only one shoot is used, since with this method of propagation the mother bush is greatly depleted.

Cuttings

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings is the easiest and most effective method. Do this better in summer or in the spring, when young shoots have not yet become woody. The best option is young shoots of the current season, 0.7 cm thick.

Important! A woody cutting increases the survival time and reduces the rate of root formation.

Before you start planting, you need to cut the cuttings and prepare the soil for planting. The cuttings are cut 20–35 cm long. Each material should have several full-fledged buds. The lower cut is made below the kidney by 55 mm at an angle of 45 degrees, the upper cut is horizontally above the kidney by a centimeter. To prevent possible infection and reduce moisture evaporation, the upper cut is treated with wax or paraffin. Each cutting is left with two top leaves, cut in half.

Important! For 100% rooting, the cuttings are kept for several minutes in a solution of Kornevin or Epin.

Prepared cuttings are rooted in water or in nutritious, disinfected soil.

Reproduction in soil

Before rooting the cuttings, it is necessary to disinfect the soil:

spill with a hot solution of potassium permanganate;
ignite.

To root seedlings, you can use any nutrient soil:

Light earthen mixture (turf 2 parts, leaf – 2, sand – 1).
A mixture of river sand and peat (1:1).
Purchased substrate designed specifically for roses.

We fill the prepared containers with soil, plant the cuttings and cover them with a jar to create a microgreenhouse. The best temperature for germination is 23–26 degrees. The lighting should be good, but from direct sun rays It is better to shade the seedling. We periodically remove the transparent cap for ventilation, watering and spraying.

At good care Rooting occurs after 6 weeks, this can be understood by the appearance of new young leaves.

Rooting in water

If you decide to root the cuttings in water, you must use only boiled water, which must be changed 2 times a week. Place the jar in a warm, illuminated place and monitor temperature conditions. Rooting is easy to notice by the formation of a root system. The rooted cuttings can be planted in nutrient soil.

As a rule, rooting occurs in mid-September. By this time, the seedlings have built up a strong root system and are ready to be transplanted to permanent place.

When propagating climbing roses by cuttings, you must remember that in order to obtain the desired result, you should provide the plant with proper care and attention:

constant air temperature – 23–26 degrees;
good lighting;
Covering material cannot be removed before rooting.

You can also harvest cuttings in the fall, after pruning the mother bush. To do this: cut healthy woody seedlings 15 cm long, remove all foliage, make an oblique cut under the lower bud and leave until spring in damp moss or sand at a temperature no higher than 3 degrees.

Reproduction by taps

How to propagate a climbing rose by layering is a frequently asked question from new gardeners. According to many summer residents, propagation of climbing roses by layering is a simple and often used method. There is one disadvantage of such propagation, obtaining a minimum number of seedlings.

Reproduction method:

The right time is spring.
From the mother bush we select the strongest, one-year-old shoot, at least 1 meter long.
On the selected seedling, make a shallow cut above the buds.
Before rooting, dig a trench 7–10 cm deep and water warm water, cover the bottom with humus and place the prepared seedling so that only the crown remains above the soil surface.
During the rooting period, the soil should be kept moist.
We feed the seedlings with liquid fertilizers twice a season.
Next year we cut off the shoot and divide it into parts. We plant the seedling with roots in the prepared place.

Important! To obtain several rooted shoots, it needs to be laid in waves: a bud above the ground, a bud underground.

Further care

As a rule, propagated climbing roses by cuttings or offsets are planted in the spring. Caring for young seedlings is the same as for an adult plant:

watering as the earthen clod dries out;
weeding, loosening and mulching of the soil;
feeding and timely pruning;
shelter for the winter;
prevention from diseases.

Experienced gardeners recommend propagating climbing roses both by cuttings and by cuttings. These methods are simple and effective. Bushes grown from cuttings overwinter easier and even after slight freezing of the above-ground parts, they quickly recover and begin to grow from root buds.

Bottom line

Any of the methods requires effort and time. But the work done is worth it, since the climbing rose will decorate any corner of the summer cottage and will delight the eye for a long time. How to propagate a climbing rose by cuttings (video):

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Climbing roses can decorate any garden plot. Most often, these flowers are grown in regions with mild climates. Now, thanks to the work of breeders, gardeners in the cold Ural regions and Siberia also have the opportunity to grow luxurious bushes of climbing roses in their gardens.

See also:

The value of climbing roses is in their flexible shoots that grow up to three meters, which allows them to be widely used in vertical gardening. Gardeners decorate arches, gazebos, and walls of houses with them. There are many varieties of climbing roses (more details), so with patience and imagination, you can easily create a multi-colored, fragrant rose garden on your site.

Many gardeners try to propagate climbing roses with their own hands. This is primarily due to the high cost of planting material in stores. In this article we will talk in detail about possible ways propagation of climbing roses.

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting (budding). The most common and convenient option is cuttings. Seed propagation is possible only if seed material is purchased from the appropriate store. As you know, independently collected seeds Climbing roses growing in your dacha or garden do not carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Each method of reproduction has its own characteristics and difficulties, which are not always amenable to those who are just starting to breed these amazing plants. The simplest, giving a higher percentage of survival, is the propagation of climbing roses by cuttings, root suckers and layering.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings- most easy way, almost always giving a 100% positive result.

Planting material is cut before the shoot blooms (in spring) or 10 days after flowering. The shoot must have at least three buds ready to grow. The middle part is separated from the shoot, on which there should be three living buds. The cut is made from below at an angle of 45 degrees, from above - 90 degrees. All the lower leaves of the cuttings are cut off, and the upper ones are cut in half.

There are several ways to root rose cuttings:

Rooting a rose cutting in water

To obtain a healthy climbing rose, the cuttings must be placed in boiled water. The cutting requires a shaded place, so the sun can burn the planting material. The water is changed every other day. On average, the root system will form in about a month. The cuttings can be planted in a permanent place. The only problem that arises with this method of propagation is a lack of oxygen, which often leads to rotting of the cuttings.

Rooting a rose cutting in the ground

It is possible to propagate climbing roses by rooting cuttings directly into the soil. To prevent rotting, coarse sand is added under the planting material. It must be scalded with boiling water to kill harmful microorganisms. After abundant watering from above, the planting is covered with a glass jar. The jar can be painted with white water-based emulsion or covered with white cloth. The container is placed in a well-lit window, but not in the sun. Cuttings root well at temperatures from +23 to +25°C. The “greenhouse” is raised from time to time for ventilation. The jar can be removed when the plant has established good roots.

Rooting a rose cutting in a plastic bag

To obtain a new rose bush, cuttings are first moistened with aloe juice, planted in a pot, and spilled with warm water. After this, they put it in a large bag, tie it and hang it in front of the window. The bag creates high humidity and fog. As a rule, rooting occurs after 30 days. All that remains is to plant the planting material in the ground. Cuttings take root best in the spring.

Rooting rose cuttings in potatoes

There is nothing surprising about the propagation of climbing roses in young potatoes. This is a long-tested and reliable method that even a novice gardener can handle.

What does a potato give to a cutting during propagation:
. maintaining a constant moist environment
. the future rose feeds on the carbohydrates and starch contained in the root crop

Before propagating roses by cuttings planted in potatoes, dig a trench at least 15 cm deep. The bottom is covered with sand with a layer of 5 centimeters. The cutting should be up to 20 cm. Thorns and leaves are removed from it. The eyes are cut out of the potato to deprive it of vegetation, and the cuttings are inserted with the sharp end. The living “container” is laid out at a distance of 15 cm.

The planting needs to be protected from wind and sun at first, so when propagating climbing roses, shelter is required. They can use ordinary glass jar or a piece of tin.

You can open the rose bed slightly after 14 days to acclimate the plants to the climate. After another 14 days the rose opens completely.

In this method of propagating climbing roses, it is important to use shoots growing at the root collar. At the beginning of March, they are bent to the ground and placed in small grooves, then sprinkled with loose soil.

The tops of the shoots remain outside, and in places of contact with the ground it is necessary to make ring cuts to increase the intensity of the flow of nutrients.

By autumn, the cuttings will take root, but they can be separated only next spring, and weak plants - only after a year. In the natural conditions of our country, the tops of climbing roses that are not covered with snow die off, so the shoots, which should become layering in the spring, are bent to the ground and covered with peat.

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a rose hip bush - this technique is quite often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, rose hips should be generously watered.

An incision is made in the bark in the shape of the letter “T” right on the root collar of the shrub, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. An eye cut from a climbing rose is placed in this kind of “pocket”. The eye needs to be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we press the eye tightly to the neck of the rootstock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush is hilled up, and so that the soil rises above the grafting site by 5 cm (this is the minimum). After two to three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the arrival new spring it is removed for good.

You can see how to properly bull a rose using this example: “Grafting an apple tree with budding”

Climbing rose seeds are pre-soaked in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. This disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in subsequent stages of growing the plant. After that, we remove the seeds from the solution, lay them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again soaked in hydrogen peroxide, cover the top with a similar layer of cotton wool, which is also soaked in peroxide.

We place the resulting “sandwich” in a plastic bag and hide it in the refrigerator, in the compartment for greens and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds and replace the cotton layers with new ones (also soaked in hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be carefully transferred into peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mixture. Seedling cassettes are also suitable.

Young shoots should be watered as the soil dries. In order for plants to develop correctly, they need to be provided with daily lighting for 10 hours. If you do everything correctly, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the arrival of spring, new stock is planted in open ground.

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Garden ensembles created with the help of climbing roses are particularly elegant, but to achieve a good result, you need the right approach to growing them. We will tell you about the secrets of planting and caring for this fashionable and beautiful plant.

About the varieties and varieties of climbing roses

All climbing roses are divided into 3 groups: ramblers (small-flowered), large-flowered (Climber) and Climbing (climbing), distinguished by even larger flowers. The difference between them is clearly visible in the photo.

Our most popular varieties include:

Landing

The climbing rose, the planting and care of which is somewhat different from other types of roses, loves the sun, so it is planted on the south or southwest side of the estate. Wetlands are not suitable. In this case, the roots may rot, because they grow up to 2 m deep. It is better when the place where they grow is located on a hill and is well ventilated.

Important! Never plant bushes in places where roses have already grown.

It is recommended to plant plants in the fall (September), although you can do this in the spring, but then the flowers will appear 2 weeks later. Most suitable soil is a loose, permeable loam. Heavy clay is diluted with a small amount of lime. A bed 0.5-0.6 m wide is sufficient for planting roses. Holes measuring 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 m and at a distance of 1 m from one another are dug in advance. If the soil in them is dry at the time of planting, pour 1 bucket of water into each, add 0.5 buckets of manure, humus and phosphorus-containing fertilizer. The bottom of the hole is dug up.

Climbing rose bush before planting

Before planting, the seedlings are treated - the roots are pruned, removing long shoots, pickled in a solution of low concentration potassium permanganate, the places where the buds are located are sprinkled with charcoal, then the bush is dipped in a biostimulant solution. As the latter, a mineral mixture is often used, consisting of clay, mullein and 2-3 tablets of phosphorobacterin per 10 liters of water or 1 tablet of heteroauxin. After this, the seedling is immersed in the hole. If this happens in the fall, then the root collar is covered with 12 centimeters of soil, otherwise the plant will most likely die in the winter. Next, the soil is compacted and watered, and the plant is cut off, retreating from the ground level of 18 centimeters. spring planting the seedling is shortened to 11-13 cm.

Advice. If you plan to decorate a wall, then place the hole for the climbing rose at a distance of about 0.45 m from the object, because its roots can destroy the foundation.

Caring for climbing roses

Care includes a minimum of activities:

abundant, but without fanaticism, watering - once a week and a half;
mulching with grass, sawdust, humus, straw;
pruning faded shoots to stimulate the appearance of new buds;
feeding

Choose the sunniest place on the site for the rose.

Since the length of the branches increases quite quickly, you need to plan their direction in advance. As soon as they grow to 0.5 m, install vertical supports to tie them up. During the season, you have to install many of these racks, because many lateral shoots appear on each lash. Thus, a crown is formed, flowering becomes longer and more abundant, and the entire object near which the bush grows is completely covered with stems, as in the photo.

A mandatory procedure is to prepare the bush for winter. He needs good thermal insulation. Climbing roses are covered using two methods: removing them from the support and leaving the vines in place. When choosing the first method, the shoots are removed from the rack, the weak and old ones are removed so that only 10-12 pieces remain. the strongest. Next, they are tied, pressed to the soil, fixed with pegs, covered with spruce branches, and a layer of soil is poured onto the base and covered with film.

Think in advance and install a support for the climbing rose

Fertilizer and feeding

Humus added to the hole during planting will nourish the rose bush for 2 years. In the future, the plant will require fertilizers. In the spring, manure is applied to encourage the growth of young stems. In autumn, this fertilizer is contraindicated, because the regrown shoots will not have time to gain strength and will not survive the winter. The optimal composition of autumn feeding:

sulfate, potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, potassium magnesium;
superphosphate - double and simple;
slaked lime, chalk, dolomite flour, wood ash, i.e. compositions containing calcium.

Roses need varied and regular feeding.

During the growing season, roses are fed 4-5 times. To feed plants with potassium, you can use a solution consisting of 10 liters of water, 15 g of superphosphate and 16 g of potassium monophosphate. To ensure that roses receive a sufficient amount of phosphate, add 10 g of magnesium sulfate to a bucket of water. As a calcium supplement, use a solution of 1 large spoon of calcium nitrate in a bucket of water.

Advice. To enrich roses with potassium, bury banana peelings under the bush. They contain this element in large quantities.

Climbing rose propagation

The most common method of reproduction is cuttings. The rooting rate is almost 100%. It is better to harvest cuttings from vines that are still blooming or have already bloomed in June-August. It is done like this:

cut blanks with 2-3 buds;
the bottom is cut off under the last bud at an angle of 45 degrees, the top is straight;
the leaves are removed from below and shortened by 1/2 from above;
plant directly in a flowerbed or container;

Climbing rose seedlings

cover with a plastic or glass container;
moisturize without violating the tightness of the shelter;
remove protection in the spring of next year.

Sometimes cuttings are treated with a growth agent - heteroauxin or any other.

More complex method - budding. It is suitable only for a few large-flowered climbing roses. The operation is carried out in July-August, but in the south it is also carried out in September. A one- or 2-year-old rosehip is chosen as a rootstock, on the root collar of which a cut is made in the shape of the letter T and a dormant bud is inserted. The area is tightly wrapped with film, and the scion itself is sprinkled with soil. When the 4th leaf appears on the shoots, they are pinched.

Diseases and pests of climbing roses

Climbing roses are often affected by a fungal disease such as powdery mildew, especially when the weather is humid and hot. As a result, the bush stops growing, the flowers fall off, and the plant withers. For prevention, plants are treated with Bordeaux mixture 2 times: the first time in the spring after removing the spruce branches, the second time when the shoots grow 20 centimeters.

Powdery rose on rose leaves

Sometimes, after removing the cover, reddish-brown spots appear on the bark. They enlarge, darken and can reach the point where the entire shoot seems to be surrounded by a ring. This disease is called koniothyrium, "burn", cancer of the cortex. It is caused by a fungus that has settled inside the tissue and progresses in winter. Diseased lashes are cut off and burned. For the purpose of prevention in winter, during the thaw, the covering material is raised for ventilation, and during autumn fertilizing the percentage of nitrogen and potassium is reduced.

These roses, like no other plants, are suitable for decorating gazebos, arches, pergolas, fences, walls and balconies. Growing them is not very difficult, so if you wish, you can create beautiful, spectacular compositions from different varieties in your dacha.