How to fix a toilet to a tile: a sequence of actions and work with tiles. The toilet staggers, how to strengthen: simple effective methods Screed under the toilet

Sometimes you have to replace plumbing equipment without waiting for repairs in the apartment. The slightest chip, crack can lead to serious consequences. And the quality of the water, even with proper cleaning, leaves unsightly traces of rust. Installing a toilet with your own hands is quite within the power of any person. You can, of course, invite masters from specialized services. However, with self-installation, a considerable amount is saved in the family budget. The article contains the most detailed instructions and recommendations for choosing and replacing a toilet bowl.

Read in the article:

The basics of proper space planning in the toilet

To make the layout of the space in the restroom as comfortable as possible, it is important to follow some rules:

1. The distance from the side wall, washbasin or bathtub to the toilet must be at least 25 cm.
2. the distance in front of the toilet should be left about 60 cm.

The layout will be affected by the dimensions of the new plumbing, mounting options, the method of draining and the height of the toilet. Knowing how to properly install the toilet, you can begin to choose and plan the placement of the rest of the plumbing in the restroom.

The basics of choosing the right toilet for your home

The best solution when replacing an old toilet is to choose a similar equipment. It is important that the principle of fastening and the place of draining of the new equipment are identical to the old ones. It is desirable that the drain angle coincides with the outlet angle of the already installed sewer pipe. Otherwise, you will need to install additional corrugation or pipe fragments from the new toilet to the old connection.

Modern equipment can be classified into the following types:

Do-it-yourself toilet installation: basic nuances and recommendations

The process of installing a toilet bowl with your own hands can be divided into several stages:

• selection of new equipment;
• dismantling of the old;
• repair or replacement of the sewerage system, if necessary individual elements. In addition, it may be necessary to replace the facing tiles;
• installation of a new toilet, connecting the tank to the water supply.

Consider step by step the entire installation process.

What tools are required to install a toilet

Before work, you will need the following tools:

• perforator;
• yardstick;
• wrenches and wrenches;
• flexible water hose;
• fum tape;
• fasteners;
• silicone sanitary sealant.

To install the installation system, you will need additional tools and fasteners. The entire set can be easily purchased at any outlet that sells sanitary equipment.

Removing an old toilet

Do-it-yourself toilet replacement can hide some difficulties. Consider the whole process step by step with recommendations for overcoming possible difficulties:

1. Before starting work, it is necessary to shut off the water supply to the tank.
2. Drain the water from the tank and make sure that its supply is stopped.
3. Disconnect drain hose.
4. Unscrew the cistern from the toilet.
5. Unscrew the toilet bowl from the floor.
6. Disconnect the bowl from the drain hole in the sewer pipe. If the equipment was installed a long time ago and the drain is smeared with cement, use a hammer and screwdriver to destroy cement mortar. Before disconnecting the toilet, it is necessary to drain the water from the knee. To do this, you need to tilt it several times in different directions.
7. After all the manipulations, the toilet bowl can be removed.
8. The sewer hole must be temporarily closed with a plug or cloth.

Preparing a new toilet for installation

Before installing the toilet bowl on a tiled floor, it is necessary to check the surface for level. It should not have slopes and drops. In the case of replacing the cladding or installing a toilet bowl in a new room, you must first fill the screed according to the level and complete the tiling. Also, it will not be superfluous to conduct an inventory of sewer wiring.

How to install a conventional toilet with your own hands: a step by step guide

After carrying out the preparatory work, you can proceed with the installation of new equipment. Read the instructions carefully beforehand:

Illustration	Description of works
	Assemble and fix the drain system in the drain tank. Lubricate the gasket with silicone before installation.
	Install the toilet bowl, you must first install a rubber gasket between them. Before fixing the tank, coat the bolts with silicone and install conical rubber washers.
	Then you need to screw the tube with the float. Fix it securely from below.
	Set the bowl in place. At the same time, you need to insert the corrugation into the sewer hole in order to take measurements and outline the leg of the product along the contour, mark the holes for the anchor bolts. The rubber corrugation seal and the toilet drain can be smeared with sealant for reliability.
	Using a drill, drill into the tile, corresponding to the diameter of the dowel in the kit.
	To drill holes in the screed, it is necessary to replace the drill in the puncher with a drill of the same diameter. For control, it is necessary to mark a strip along the length of the dowel with electrical tape.
	Drive dowels into the holes, and install the equipment in place. Then fasten with screws with plastic gaskets. When tightening with a wrench, you must be extremely careful, as you can damage the ceramic product. After finishing work, install plastic plugs on the screws.
	Connect the water supply hose last.
	It is necessary to check several times the filling of the tank and the absence of leakage. On this stage you can adjust the level of filling the tank with a float for economical water consumption. After all the manipulations, screw the lid to the drain tank.
	To install the seat, it is necessary to install gaskets on the brackets, fix them, insert them into the toilet bowl holes and fix them with a special washer from below.

The whole process of installing a toilet bowl with your own hands can be viewed on the video:

Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern

The arrangement of the sanitary room can be done taking into account modern technologies and maximum comfort. For the most demanding owners, equipment with a hidden drain tank is offered. It fits perfectly into the latest interior solutions. You can choose a floor model or a suspended, installed frame model. Installation of the toilet installation can be divided into 2 stages: installation drain tank and toilet installation.

Installation of a wall-mounted toilet for installation

Before installing the installation, it is necessary to make markings on the wall. To do this, use a tape measure and a level to determine the location of the central axis, then measure the installation perimeter from it. It is important that the distance from the edge of the tank to the wall is at least 135 mm. You should also note the attachment points of the equipment. The level will help you to accurately determine the horizontal and vertical lines.

Related article:

To understand and how to choose wall hung toilet for it, in this article we will consider the features different types, selection criteria and several popular manufacturers of this type of equipment.

Should know! Installing a built-in toilet with installation is only possible on a load-bearing wall.

After marking, it is necessary to drill holes for future fastening with a puncher. Then insert anchors into them and fix the base modular design. After installation, you need to check everything again with a level and align the system with height adjusters and plugs.

Next, you can install the tank. Fastening should be done with special connections that were included in the equipment kit. Then you can connect the system to the water supply. Using a plastic clamp, attach the sewer outlet and treat all connections with silicone.

To install the toilet with your own hands, you must perform the following steps:

• screw the pins into the pre-drilled holes;
• put couplings on the studs;
• check the nozzles for compliance with the dimensions;
• before installing the cushioning bowl, you need to install a gasket made of silicone or rubber;
• install equipment and inspect all connections for leaks;
• connect and fix the drain hose with clamps.

After mounting the structure, it is important that the distance from the edge modular system to the wall surface did not exceed 210 mm. Otherwise, after installing the bezel, the length of the bolts will not be enough to secure the toilet.

Step by step process how to properly install the toilet, this video will demonstrate:

Installation of floor models

Do-it-yourself installation with a floor-standing toilet differs from a hanging one only in the way the bowl is installed:

• first of all, you should fix the position of the knee with metal fasteners;
• process the release with silicone;
• install equipment and mark the contour and holes on the floor;
• remove the bowl and install the corners according to the markup;
• put the bowl in place, gently press the outlet into the pipe, fix the equipment to the floor with the bolts that were included;
• after installation, you can connect the tank in the same way as in the suspension system;
• at the final stage, bring the drain button into the hole prepared in advance on the panel.

Assembling the floor toilet with your own hands, you can watch the video below:

The main types of fasteners to the floor

The bowl can be installed in several ways:

• when installed on a pedestal (tile) on 2 or 4 dowels. For reliability during installation, drop a little sealant into the holes and make a pillow of silicone along the contour of the equipment;
• anchors installed in the floor screed during pouring. The method does not allow errors. It is important to choose the required anchor length so that you can then screw the nut when installing the toilet;
• on a wooden base- this method was used in the old days. It should be borne in mind that the humidity in the bathroom is increased;
• on the corners that are fixed on the floor. Fastening is carried out through the side holes in the leg of the equipment;
• on glue. The floor surface is treated with sandpaper to increase adhesion, then it must be degreased with any solvent. An epoxy adhesive with a thickness of 4 mm or more is applied along the previously applied contour of the equipment leg. The equipment is carefully installed, with the simultaneous combination of the drain and the sewer pipe. After 12 hours, you can use the restroom.

The main types of fasteners to the wall

Mounting of wall equipment is carried out only to the bearing surface of the wall using a metal frame. The flat cistern and piping are behind a drywall bezel. The metal frame and the toilet are attached to anchors embedded in the load-bearing wall.

The main types of connecting the toilet to the sewer

To attach the bowl to the sewer, you need to pick up pipe fittings based on size and installation options. Fittings should be installed before the equipment is fixed to the floor. Consider the main connection options, their differences and installation recommendations.

Fan pipe or plastic pipe

A fan pipe is used when a vacuum is possible in sewer system to prevent the disruption of the water seal and the penetration of unpleasant odors into the room. Pipe installation is recommended in multi-storey buildings with a large number of water intake points.

Manufacturers offer eccentrics and pipe fittings with a check valve that work on a principle similar to that of a fan pipe.

It is made in one piece. When selecting, it is important to choose a product with a diameter that matches the junction of the equipment. In case not right choice diameter, it is impossible to correct flaws.

Eccentric

The cuffs consist of 2 branch pipes with a displaced center, interconnected by soldering. With this connection, you can quickly and easily connect the toilet to the sewer. It is important to determine the required length before starting work.

A strong connection is provided by an o-ring, so when connected to plastic sewer there is no need to use additional sealant. It will be needed in case of connection to cast iron pipes.

Eccentric sleeves are not suitable for every connection;

Corrugation

The corrugated sleeve is the ideal connection for complex and non-standard connections. Before you install the corrugation on the toilet, you must select a product of good quality. The savings in this case will be insignificant, but the damage is very tangible. You can choose a reinforced corrugation, this will significantly extend the service life.

How to connect the toilet to the sewer: connection features

Before you assemble the toilet, you need to decide which form of release is preferable and whether the purchased model of the toilet corresponds to it. It is important to know the features and nuances of connecting each release.

Bathroom with vertical outlet

Such an installation is possible in new houses or private housing, in which the piping is done under the floor. Vertical outlet eliminates the possibility of blockages and leaks. In addition, this design makes it possible to bring the equipment as close as possible to the wall.

Before starting installation in the hole on the sewer pipe, a special flange should be fixed with dowels.

Important! The axis of the fixing elements must be perpendicular to the axis of the equipment bowl.

To prevent unpleasant odors from entering the sewer, the sealing gum should be lubricated with sealant. Then install and secure the toilet.

Bathroom with horizontal outlet

Connection with a horizontal outlet is similar to installation on a corrugation. It is possible, as with the vertical one, to bring the equipment as close as possible to the wall. Its main difference is that before installation it is necessary to install a rigid system that will connect the sanitary equipment with the sewer riser.

When installing the toilet, you will need the help of a second person so that when installing the pipe, do not displace the elements of the sewer system. Before starting work, it is necessary to install the toilet in place, mark the places of the fasteners, then remove it and drill holes of the desired diameter using a puncher. After that, install the dowels and put the bowl in place.

Lubricate the branch pipe and the opening of the sewer pipe with sealant. Before installing the mount, it is necessary to make several test drains to determine the leakage.

In modern apartments, instead of a rigid connection, corrugation is more often used. It is more mobile, with its use it is possible to move structures without installing additional reinforcement.

Slanted bowl

Its installation is easiest to do with an assistant. The installation is similar to a horizontal spigot outlet. You must first mark up, then drill holes, install dowels, put the bowl in place and fix it. If a leak occurs after a test drain, it is necessary to coat the joints again with silicone and leave for a while until completely dry. The 45° slope reduces the possibility of leaks.

Connecting water to the toilet bowl

After fixing the tank to the toilet, you need to connect the water. Before starting work, it is recommended to install a shut-off valve to regulate the water supply to the tank, with the help of which, in the event of work, it is possible to carry out equipment repairs without prejudice to other points of water intake in the apartment.

Then screw the flexible hose to the outlet of the tank and to the pipe central water supply. It is possible to use special seals or fum tape for the strength of the connection.

Estimated prices for installation work

In order to choose an installation company, you can contact a service organization or a plumbing company for help. It is important at the same time to conclude an agreement and prescribe warranty periods for installation work.

Here are the approximate prices for the main work on the re-equipment of the bathroom:

In addition, funds may be needed for preliminary consultation, replacement of sewer pipes and adjustment of equipment. The result is not a small sum. Self-installation, significantly saves personal funds that can be invested in the purchase of more quality equipment.

Conclusion

Modern housing is simply impossible to imagine without such plumbing equipment as a toilet. Like any household item, it tends to age and fail, so sooner or later every homeowner is faced with the need to replace it.

Since fixing the toilet to the floor must be carried out in strict accordance with certain rules, many owners do not dare to take on such work and prefer to entrust the matter to professionals whose services are not cheap.

In fact, this process does not require special knowledge at all and even a novice master can do it. Here's how to do it right with my own hands, and what features this procedure has, we will consider in the article.

Fastening methods

Modern toilets have several varieties. Some are attached to the floor, others - to the back wall of the room. The location of the barrel, the shape of the bowl and the way the water drains may also differ.

It will be very difficult to talk in detail about each type, so we will consider the most popular option - the floor-standing compact toilet. It is this type that is most often found today in apartments and various in public places, which means that issues related to its installation are as relevant as possible.

You should immediately pay attention to the fact that the toilet bowl can be fixed to the floor in several ways, which differ in the method of fixation ceramic product. Namely:

Using a standard mounting kit (which comes with the kit);

On glue;

On taffeta;

For cement.

The choice of one or another option depends on the base material on which it is planned. But the preparatory work is the same in all cases.

Pliers, screwdriver.

Toilet installation

The technology of installing a toilet bowl using self-tapping screws involves the following work:

1. The product is installed on permanent place and mark the holes for the bolts.

2. Drill holes in the tile with a special drill. Then, using a drill, they are deepened by the length of the plastic dowel.

3. After making sure that the places for fasteners are drilled without displacement, dowels are hammered into them.

4. The sewer hole is cleaned of debris, coated with silicone and a corrugation is inserted into it.

This is necessary so that the room does not leak unpleasant odors from a pipe. In addition, the sealing gum may dry out over time, and then water will begin to ooze at the junction of the pipes.

6. Fasteners for the toilet are inserted into the holes. The product is attracted to the base until it becomes as stable and motionless as possible.

7. Pre-prepared cement mortar (soft clay consistency) fills all the gaps between the tile and the toilet. The absence of gaps will protect the product from cracking and premature failure.

8. Install the tank. A special gasket is placed on the toilet shelf, a ceramic tank is installed and tightened with bolts.

Points to pay attention to

During the installation of the toilet bowl, the tiles cannot be drilled with a perforator operating in shock mode. This will certainly lead to the fact that cracks will go along the tile. The work is carried out using a special drill, at low speeds. Both the tile and the drill need to be periodically moistened with water. This will help keep the tile from overheating and prevent it from splitting.

The fixing screw must be screwed in very carefully. In order not to split the toilet bowl, the bolts are tightened evenly, no more than half a turn in one movement of the hand.

Do not pull the product to the floor without plastic washers. Their absence will lead to the formation of chips or a complete split of the toilet bowl.

Glue mounting

Fixing the toilet to the floor with glue or cement is considered safer and simpler, but in this case, the subsequent dismantling of the faience product will be very difficult. If there is a need to eliminate complex blockages in the sewer pipe or simply to change the layout of the bathroom, it will be impossible to do this imperceptibly and quickly.

The use of glue requires careful preparation of the base. All dirt and dust must be removed from the floor. If the toilet is installed on a tile, it should be cleaned (to roughen) and treat both surfaces (toilet and tile) with a degreaser or acetone.

The prepared mass is applied to the inside of the toilet leg (with a layer of about 4 mm). The product is installed in its permanent place, pressed tightly and left for at least 12 hours. After the final hardening of the glue, they begin to connect the toilet bowl.

Installation on cement

Consider another alternative method by which you can install floor-standing toilets. Reviews of experts say that if there was no suitable glue at hand, faience can be installed using cement mortar.

To do this, you will need 3-5 kg ​​of cement, sand and a small container. Work is performed in the following order:

The floor is cleared of debris. If the toilet will be installed on a tile, a notch is made in it.

The cement mortar is mixed. If there is sand available, both components are taken in a ratio of 1: 1, if there is no sand, only cement can be dispensed with.

The cement mass is laid out on the floor, and a toilet bowl is installed on top of it. The product is firmly pressed to the floor.

Excess cement smears the outlet of the toilet bowl and the place of its docking with cast iron pipe. If sewage pipe made of plastic, use a cuff and silicone sealant.

Mounting on taffeta

This method is most often used in rooms with wooden floors. As taffeta, a lining made of durable types of wood is used, which is mounted between the floors and the faience product.

The thickness of the substrate should be within 28-32 mm. So that taffeta does not quickly become unusable under the influence of dampness, it is impregnated with drying oil. IN construction stores can be purchased already ready product. Most often on sale you can find taffeta made of thick oak boards or rubber.

The substrate is fixed to the base with thick screws or glue. For maximum reliability, anchors can be attached to the back of the lining. You can also drive in a few nails in a checkerboard pattern. The tips of the nails should protrude at least 3 centimeters outward.

The niche for installing the toilet is poured with concrete and a wooden lining is installed there so that it is flush with the floors.

A toilet bowl is installed on a fixed substrate. It is pulled together with the base using standard mounting bolts, in the manner that we described at the beginning of this article.

Cost of work

At the end of the topic, I would like to touch on the financial component of this issue. Indeed, for many, repair work seems too troublesome and tedious, so they prefer to entrust this matter to real professionals. In this case, all you need to do is find a company that provides services such as installing a toilet. Price per job experienced craftsmen depends on the methods of fixing plumbing.

Most companies install toilet bowls only with standard fasteners. The cost of this service (depending on the city of residence) starts from 1200 rubles and reaches 3000 rubles.

A cheaper price tag can be offered by novice private masters, but in this case the quality of the work will be in question. Therefore, if you cannot afford such expenses, the best solution would be self-installation toilet. In this case, there will be no price for the work, and the purchase of the necessary materials will not require you to spend a lot of money.

We hope that in this article you have found all the answers to your questions. Quick and easy repair for you!

Installing a toilet bowl on a tiled floor can be done in several ways, depending on the design of the plumbing fixture. Before starting installation, you should carefully study the instructions, prepare the necessary tools and carry out preparatory work.

In most cases, you can carry out the procedure yourself without the help of plumbers.

After completion of the installation work, water supply is also carried out. It is also important to follow a certain algorithm of actions.

Preparation for installation work

Preparatory stage consists of the following steps:

• choice suitable place the location of plumbing in the toilet, the creation of markings;
• sewerage and water supply outlet. The ends of the pipes should be approximately 13-16 cm from the surface so that the device can be connected to communications;
• if repairs are being made in the room, then you first need to lay tiles, and then proceed with the installation of plumbing. Otherwise, you will need to cut out tiles floor the required form of the pedestal.

After preparation, it is required to prepare the necessary tools.

Tools and materials

To install on a tile floor, you will need the following tools:

• a marker, pencil or chalk to mark the outline of the base on the tile or floor;
• a drill designed for ceramics and a drill for plastic dowels;
• means - sealant to ensure waterproofing;
• standard set of screwdrivers;
• drill or perforator;
• core for stripping the top layer of tiles;
• wrench and adjustable wrench;
• bolts for fixing the toilet to the floor;
• pliers;
• grinder with a diamond wheel;
• connecting hose;
• tap;
• adhesive (for example, liquid nails), if you plan to use method number 3 for fixing plumbing to a heated tile floor;
• plastic dowels;
• plastic gaskets for bolts;
• spatula to remove residual sealant or adhesive.

Mounting methods on a tiled floor

There are several installation options that differ in labor intensity and technology, they depend on the model of the plumbing fixture. It should be noted that all the procedures described below are not very complicated, however, for their correct implementation, it is necessary to follow the exact instructions.

To perform the latter method, which involves the adhesive fastening of the toilet, it is desirable to have at least a little experience in repairs. If there is no experience, you can pre-practice on a small part of the tile.

If the tile on the bathroom floor is very expensive, then it is advisable to entrust the installation of the toilet bowl to specialists. Otherwise, in the process of work, it is possible to accidentally spoil the floor covering.

Toilet sink fixing types and corresponding mounting method:

• Method No. 1 - is used with a vertical arrangement of fasteners, dowels are used in the process;
• Method No. 2 - with lateral placement of fasteners, the toilet bowl is fixed to the floor with corner brackets;
• Method number 3 - the use of adhesive in the presence of a system of underfloor heating and communications under the floor covering.

Method number 1 - with a vertical arrangement of fasteners

This method of installing a plumbing fixture on a tile floor is the least laborious. It is suitable for models in which there are ready-made mounting holes at the bottom. Installation instructions:

1. The optimal place for placing a plumbing fixture is determined, while the distance from the drain to the entrance to the sewer is certainly taken into account. This length will be required when selecting a corrugated pipe connecting the toilet to the sewer.
2. The contours of the selected installation site must be marked on the tile with a marker or chalk, and the location of the factory holes for fixing to the floor should also be marked. It is important that the product is installed strictly perpendicular to the floor, because. otherwise, the risk of a slight movement of the toilet bowl during fastening increases.
3. At those points that were marked on the tile in the previous step, the tile coating is knocked down with a core to prevent accidental slipping of the tool during the procedure. It is advisable to moisten the area where the stuffing will take place a little, this will help to do the job more accurately.
4. After the holes for the fasteners were made with a drill, the plumbing is installed. If there are no problems and the location suits, the toilet is removed, and a special sealant is applied along the designated contour. The use of such a tool will avoid the formation of water puddles under the toilet. Mounting holes must also be filled with sealants to make the fastening tighter and more reliable, as well as to ensure the waterproofing of the concrete screed.
5. Plumbing is being installed along the contour. Then the fasteners are carefully tightened so as not to displace the product. The sealant, which will certainly squeeze out under the mass of the toilet bowl, must be immediately removed with a spatula.
6. A strip of sealant is decorated with grout.
7. and corrugated pipe, plumbing is connected to the sewer system and cold water pipeline.

Method number 2 - with lateral placement, fastening to the floor with corner brackets

This method involves the installation of plumbing, in which fasteners are hidden. Such a procedure is more complicated than the previous one, since it should be performed only in accordance with a clear algorithm of actions. The main difference is the closest location of the sewer drain from the toilet.

Instructions for fixing the toilet to the floor:

1. Unlike the previous method, in this option First of all, it is recommended to carry out all pipe laying work. It is best if this is done before laying tiles as floor covering.
2. Plumbing is installed without fastening, a contour is applied to the floor and marks are placed showing the points of the fasteners.
3. The lower part of the toilet bowl (the so-called "concealed fixing") is mounted on the floor. With the help of corner brackets, plumbing is fixed. Fasteners must be screwed alternately, not forgetting about the constant monitoring of compliance with the contour. This will allow for rigid installation and prevent even a minimal displacement of the plumbing fixture.
4. The upper component of the product is installed in the already mounted lower one, and then securely fixed through the side holes of the toilet bowl. At the stage of connecting the sewer communication, adjustment is possible.

After the complete installation of the product and checking the quality of the installation, the elements used for fastening to the floor are closed with special decorative plugs (so that these parts do not stand out from the interior design). The procedure is of medium complexity, requires utmost care and accuracy.

Method number 3 - use a sealant

Quite often, in bathrooms, a “warm floor” system is installed on an electric or water based therefore, drilling individual fixing holes is not possible. This can lead to a significant disruption in the functioning, because. increases the risk of damage to cables or waterproofing.

In such a situation, the only way out is to use products based on building glue. To fix the toilet to the floor on the tile, the following materials can be used: liquid nails, some silicone mixtures, resins.

Algorithm for installing a toilet bowl on a tiled floor:

1. Put the plumbing fixture and apply the outline of its base on the tile.
2. The surface layer of the tile is carefully scraped off with a diamond wheel or other similar tool. The resulting roughness will provide reliable adhesion to the toilet base. With the toilet, a similar procedure is performed.
3. At a distance of 3-4 mm from the created contour, a layer of adhesive is applied in such a way that its main part remains directly under the pedestal. Any substance squeezed out after installation must be immediately removed with a spatula. If this is not done, after hardening, the adhesive can only be removed together with the ceramic tiles.

The procedure for attaching components to the toilet, connecting to the sewer and water supply

The connection to the water supply also differs by type, depending on the design of the toilet:

• in the presence of internal system water supply, a flexible hose or a special copper tube is used to connect. As a rule, such elements are sold complete with parts for fastening to the floor, but it is advisable to clarify this point with the consultant separately. Sometimes it happens that the tap thread and the thread on the copper tube, then you need an adapter and sealing elements;
• with an external water supply system, connection is easiest. As a rule, no additional details are required.

Regardless of the method of connection to the water supply, all connections should be coated with special sealants for plumbing fixtures to ensure waterproofing and minimize the risk of leakage.

Common Mistakes

If the master did not follow the algorithm when installing the toilet bowl on the tiled floor, the result may be the malfunctioning of the plumbing fixture, broken waterproofing (leaks) and the spread of an unpleasant odor in the room.
Watch the video

Common mistakes when installing on a tile:

1. Uneven location of the toilet - to avoid this, it is important to use the building level at each stage. The lack of an alignment step can lead to a violation of the waterproofing and damage to the plumbing.
2. Insufficient treatment of joints with silicone-based sealants. The agent should also be applied to the contour of the corrugation and the pedestal of the toilet bowl. The result of this error, most often, is the formation of puddles under the equipment or drain pipe.

1. When renovating a bathroom, some debris sometimes gets into the installed toilet. Before connecting the pipeline, it is important to check all components of the structure to ensure that there are no foreign objects. Otherwise, it may lead to blockage of the toilet.
2. Insufficient sealing of the reservoir valves or their damage can lead to leakage of the reservoir after a certain time.

Thus, the installation of a toilet bowl on a tiled floor can be done independently. Depending on the design of the model, the appropriate mounting method is determined.

After installation is completed, it may occur, see common causes and methods for their elimination.

When carrying out the procedure, it is important to strictly follow the instructions, then the installation will be done efficiently. It should be noted that if the owner of the apartment is not sure about own forces It is better to entrust installation work to professionals.

Watch the video

The toilet bowl is an integral element of the plumbing unit in any apartment or private house. Installing a toilet is not a difficult process, but it does require some accuracy and some skills. Understanding the mechanism of the drain tank and how it is assembled from individual parts is only half or even a third of the job. In addition to this, connection to engineering networks, the plumber needs to securely fix the toilet in the toilet. Do you want to know how it goes to the floor, as well as other operations for its arrangement? Here you will learn how it can be done.

Varieties of toilet bowls

Before proceeding directly to the methods of attaching the toilet to the floor, consider what varieties of this plumbing product exist. Among themselves, they are classified according to a number of criteria:

• bowl and tank design;
• release direction;
• material of manufacture;
• dimensions and weight of the product.

Let's start with the design of the tank and the toilet bowl - the main types of plumbing that differ in this respect are presented in the table below.

Table. The main types of toilet bowls by design.

Varieties of toilet bowls according to the type of connection with the sewer. The horizontal outlet is suitable for those toilets where the waste pipe is hidden behind a plasterboard wall. The vertical structure is considered obsolete today, but earlier it was used in those houses where sewerage was laid in interfloor ceilings. Oblique outlet is often used in prefabricated apartment buildings

Toilet bowls are made from the following materials:

• faience- cheap and fragile, the service life is about 15 years;
• porcelain- more expensive than faience, but stronger, more beautiful and more durable;
• reinforced acrylic- light, strong and durable, but not in the best way survives contact with high temperatures;
• steel – strong material, suitable for the toilet in a public place.

Now let's move on to how to fix the toilet to the floor:

• fastening the toilet with dowels;
• fixing the toilet with glue or sealant;
• installation on cement;
• fixing the toilet on taffeta;
• installation of plumbing on a frame hidden behind a false wall.

toilet prices

Fixing the toilet to the floor with dowels

The most common way to install a toilet on the toilet floor is by dowels and bolts. This is a practical and relatively simple method, but it has two problems. First - you need to drill the tile. This event requires special care and accuracy - any mistake will lead to damage to the flooring. The second problem of fixing plumbing with dowels is that this installation method is designed for relatively light products. Therefore, if you have a heavy toilet, it is better to use glue.

But back to the dowels and screws - in order to use them to fix the toilet on the floor yourself, you will need the following tools:

• measuring tape;
• marker or pencil for marking;
• electric drill;
• drill bit for concrete (preferably a spare tool);
• a rag or microfiber cloth;
• ammonia.

In some cases, you may still need a sealant and a glue gun, or a small sheet of linoleum. And now we will describe step by step the process of attaching the toilet bowl to the floor with dowels.

Step 1."Try on" the toilet by making a preliminary installation in the place where it should be. Evaluate how convenient it is to use, and the points of connection of the water supply to the tank. Try to shake the toilet bowl - you need to determine if the floor is flat under it.

Important! If the floor is not even enough and the toilet staggers, then before fixing the plumbing on the dowels, you need to put a sheet of linoleum under it, cut along the contour of the bowl support. But there is also Alternative option- seam processing silicone sealant. And in some cases, the problem may not be in the floor, but in the toilet itself. In this case, the support of the product is cleaned and leveled with emery cloth.

Step 2 Using a tape measure, determine the place where the toilet should be, more accurately. Make preliminary marks in the holes for the fasteners.

Step 3 Remove the toilet bowl from this place and make sufficiently large and noticeable marks in the form of crosses from the previously applied dots.

Step 4 Prepare a drill with a drill bit for concrete. First, drill holes in the tile. At the same time, the drill should work at low speeds, and all work should be done very carefully so that cracks and other damage to the tiles do not occur in the process.

Step 5 Then finish the holes, but already in concrete floor. Either set the drill to a higher speed, or replace it with a rotary hammer, which will do a much better job of this task.

Step 6 Clean the tiles at the installation site of the toilet from dust and other contaminants formed during the drilling of holes for the dowels. Also, do not forget to degrease the surface with ammonia.

Step 7 Insert the dowels into the previously drilled holes.

Step 8 Check if the bolts from the toilet bowl kit fit into the dowels properly. If for some reason their quality does not suit you, replace the fasteners with your own.

Step 9 Set the toilet back in place. Check if the holes in the tile are aligned with those in the bowl support of the sanitary ware.

Step 10 Insert the bolts into the dowels through the holes in the toilet support. Don't forget the plastic or rubber washers. Tighten the bolts, but be careful - there is a risk of damaging the toilet itself when overtightening. The last thing to do is to cover the fastener caps with decorative plastic overlays. After that, fixing the toilet bowl to the floor on the dowels with your own hands can be considered complete.

You may be interested in information on how to replace

In terms of popularity, this method of installing a toilet bowl can compete with installing plumbing fixtures on dowels and screws. Here, specialized building adhesives are used, purchased in the relevant stores, or epoxy-based mixtures prepared independently. Also, very often ordinary silicone sealant is used to attach the toilet.

The popularity of this method of installing a sanitary ware is due to its certain advantages.

1. Installation cleanliness– no dust or dirt is generated when the toilet is seated on the adhesive. There is no need to waste energy on cleaning the bathroom.
2. Safety- in the process of installing the toilet with glue, there is practically no risk of damaging the sanitary ware or tiles on the floor of the toilet.
3. Simplicity- in the previous fastener method, for successful drilling of tiles, you need to have some experience in the repair business. Here it is not required - it is enough just to be able to handle the glue gun.
4. Reliability- a toilet installed on glue or sealant will not stagger.

At the same time, it should be understood that such a method of installing plumbing will require some patience - after planting the toilet on the glue, it will not be possible to use it for 12-20 hours.

To attach plumbing to the floor, you will need the following materials and tools:

• tape measure and square;
• marker or pencil;
• glue gun;
• narrow spatula;
• a small rag;
• spray gun with soapy water;
• emery skin;
• ammonia;
• glue or silicone sealant for fixing the toilet.

Imagine to the floor with your own hands in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Step 1. Perform a preliminary “fitting” of the toilet bowl in the toilet - put it on cardboard so as not to accidentally damage the tile and imagine how to mount this sanitary ware in the best way. Estimate whether it is comfortable for you to sit on it, how difficult it is to provide access to the sewerage system and connect the water supply to the tank.

Step 2 Use a corner or tape measure to center the toilet. Note how many centimeters the plumbing should recede from the left and right walls of the toilet, respectively.

Step 3 Remove the cardboard from under the toilet and re-align it with the walls of the toilet. To do this, use, as in the previous step, a tape measure or corner.

Important! When aligning the toilet bowl with the walls of the toilet, do not forget about the tank - it should also be located as evenly as possible. Check whether the holes are aligned with which both parts of the sanitary ware will be connected to each other in the future.

Step 4 Draw a marker or pencil around the part of the toilet bowl that is adjacent to the floor in the toilet.

Step 5 With a knife or sandpaper sand the edge of the toilet support to make it perfectly flat and to provide a better "grip" to the adhesive.

Interesting! In some cases, it is justified to sand that part of the tile to which the toilet bowl support will adjoin. But at the same time, be careful - do not go beyond the edge of the line marked in one of the previous steps with the abrasive and do not ruin the tile.

Step 6 Treat the tile where the toilet is installed with ammonia to degrease the surface. Then dry with a microfiber cloth.

Step 7 Carefully apply glue or silicone sealant (as in this case) to the edge of the toilet bowl support. The composition should be exactly as much as necessary - if there is a shortage, the fastening of the sanitary ware to the floor will be fragile, and in case of excess, there is a chance of staining the tile.

Step 8 Transfer the toilet bowl with glue applied to the bowl support to the toilet and gently lower it to the place marked in one of the previous steps with a marker. It is advisable to do this work not alone, but with an assistant - otherwise there is a high risk of smearing the tiles next to the plumbing with glue or sealant and fixing the product in the wrong way.

Step 9 Spray the area around the toilet seat with soapy water from a spray bottle. This is necessary so that when cutting off excess sealant, the latter does not stick to the tile.

Step 10 Moisten the spatula with the same soapy solution that was discussed in the previous step of attaching the toilet to the floor. Then use this tool to remove any remaining adhesive or sealant.

Step 11 Allow some time, 12 to 24 hours, for the adhesive, sealant, or other compound you used to attach the toilet to set and dry. Until this time, it is undesirable to somehow move or even touch the plumbing. , you can read in our article.

Step 12 After the adhesive has finally set on the tile, continue the installation of the toilet bowl - connect the plumbing to the sewer, and bring water to it, fix the seat with the cover on the product, etc.

Important! As mentioned above, the adhesive for attaching the toilet to the floor can be prepared independently. To do this, warm up to + 50 ° C 20 parts of epoxy, then add 4 parts of solvent and 7 hardener to it. Mix them, and then pour 40 parts of cement. Stir everything again until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Use the product as an adhesive as soon as possible - after 1.5-2 hours the mixture will lose its properties and begin to harden.

Video - Mounting the toilet on silicone

Other ways to install a toilet

In addition to those mentioned in the previous sections, there are other ways to secure the toilet to the floor. However, for one reason or another, they are less popular. Let's make a brief review.

Previously, a very popular way to fix the toilet was to wall it up with concrete - a small recess was made in the floor, plumbing was installed there and its lower part was smeared with mortar. Very often, products mounted in this way can be found in old multi-storey buildings (if the residents did not carry out). Fastening in a similar way quite reliable, it is relatively easy to implement.

But the method has two extremely serious problems. The first is the unattractive appearance of the junction of the toilet bowl, installed in this way, and the floor. The second problem of fixing plumbing to concrete is the impossibility of subsequent dismantling of the product without damage. In fact, to remove a toilet installed in this way, it will have to be broken. Therefore, with the advent of modern building bites and sealants, the method has lost its relevance.

Another outdated way of attaching the toilet to the floor is with taffeta. It is a wooden substrate about 5 cm high, installed in a recess with concrete mortar. A large number of nails or anchors are installed on the underside of the taffeta. With their help, a wooden substrate immersed in a recess is fixed in concrete mortar. And only then a toilet bowl is installed on the taffeta itself and fastened with screws.

Important! When mounting plumbing on a wooden substrate, remember that the toilet and bathroom are rooms with high humidity. Do not forget to treat the taffeta with drying oil or varnish so that it does not dampen and become unusable too quickly.

And the last way to fix the toilet, but not entirely related to the floor - suspended installation. In this case, a metal frame is built near the wall of the toilet (most often included in the kit with hanging plumbing). The toilet bowl is connected to it and produced. At the same time, the frame itself and the tank of the sanitary ware are hidden behind a false wall of plasterboard and tiles. The result is a compact and beautiful mount. But the implementation of this method requires a lot of time and money.

The choice of the above methods of fixing the toilet bowl to the floor depends only on your personal preferences. In order for your toilet to last longer, we advise you to purchase. In any case, with a smart approach and proper installation, your plumbing will last for many years and will stand firmly in its place.

The scheme of fastening the toilet with taffeta

Epoxy is the best toilet glue

Implementation involves: 1. Choosing and buying a new toilet; 2. Dismantling the old toilet; 3. Surface preparation for fastening; 4. Installing a toilet; 5. Complete set and installation of the tank; 6. Crimping
All of these points are interconnected, they can be said not to be separated.

I will analyze each separately in detail. You should read it carefully and put it into practice, and what the result will be is entirely up to you and your conscientious attitude to the task.
So, first things first.

Choosing and buying a toilet

Toilets are separated:

By appointment

- children's (small dimensions, decorated with various colors, the use is common in preschool institutions)
– for people with disabilities (handrails, armrests are added, they have a wide bowl, are adjustable in height)
- universal (used by people regardless of gender and age).

By size

- height
- width
- length

By installation

- hanging
- floor
In turn, they are divided into wall and corner.

By issue

- oblique (at an angle)
- horizontal (to the wall)
- vertical (to the floor)

By design

- retro
- modern
— hi-tech

According to body material

– san faience
- San Porcelain
- metal
- a natural stone

By installing the tank

- hinged
- on the toilet
- hidden
Tanks, in turn, differ in flush modes: double, normal, economical.
As well as a water supply: from below, from the side, from behind.

And finally in color

Here, as they say, "the taste and color ..." The color scheme presented on the market today anticipates all expectations, if you wish, you can even find gray Burmaline.

I will not dwell on all the parameters, we will consider the most important ones, in my opinion, for this article, namely: the direction of the toilet bowl outlet, and the double tank drain mode.

Direction of outlet from the toilet

Look at how you have the sewer socket provided for the toilet, it can be in the floor, or from the wall, or come out at an angle. It is logical to purchase a model, the release of which is most aligned with the socket, thereby avoiding refraction and rationally saving the free area of ​​​​the bathroom.
In the photo visually what I'm talking about:
Agree that in this case, a toilet with an oblique outlet is more suitable, I would approach the wall by two hundred or three hundred millimeters, at least. Such situations I have met more than once, and not even two, I installed a “carriage and a small cart” for my activities. You will come to order, and there the toilet has already been bought, the socket of the sewer tee is often cast iron, so it is absolutely not possible to turn it into the position you need. The customer throws up his hands, they say - I did not even think. What to do in this case? Do not run to change him, in fact. Something has to be sacrificed, as in the photo - a usable area.
But then, once you read the article, do not make such a mistake.

Attention

In the store, when buying, unpack the box, and carefully inspect the toilet and tank for cracks and chips.
Inspect carefully the internal cavities, both the tank and the toilet bowl.
Inspect the outlet of the toilet bowl, both outside and inside.
Check with the seller if the kit includes: seat, floor (wall) mount. If the equipment is without a seat, select according to the shape.
If you have a delivery, then inspect the product with the courier.

In case of visual detection of marriage, refuse to buy, believe me it is very disappointing, after installing the device, state puddles gathering on the floor. Read all the work for a smark.
Buy here flexible eyeliner(hose) for connection with a water pipe. If you do not have a faucet that separately shuts off the water to the tank, then I strongly recommend that you purchase and install it.

toilet cistern

Basically, cisterns come with a toilet bowl, I think you yourself decide which option is most suitable for you - mounted, either mounted on a toilet bowl, or hidden.
I will only focus on the possibility of some of them functioning in two modes. This means that they have a bifurcated button, by pressing a certain one you can regulate the descent of water. I don’t see the point in explaining when what displacement is appropriate.
Some manufacturers provide the ability to independently set the displacement, varies
- 6 and 3 liters
- 9 and 4.5 liters
- 4.5 and 3 liters
- 4 and 2 liters
The economy of water consumption is evident.

Removing an old toilet

The toilet is an irreplaceable device, it is a burden to do without it for a long time, therefore this work it is advisable to start in the morning, in order to have time in case you need to purchase any part, the shops then work until a maximum of nineteen hours.

First thing- make sure that the water supply is turned off, unscrew the eyeliner, drain all the water from the tank and remove it. On the toilets, the compact can not be removed, but as it is assembled, we will send it to the trash. We examine the integrity of the socket of the sewer tee, into which the toilet outlet is usually embedded with concrete, we make sure that there are no cracks, if they are present, then we dismantle with care.

We unscrew the toilet bowl to the floor, or cut it off with a grinder (which is more often) and try to loosen it. We can’t loosen it, we break the neck with the sharp end of the hammer in close proximity to the bell, the blows are not strong, but it’s not hell to be liberal.
We split it, removed the pot, we take out all this household. Sweep out the bathroom to avoid injury by fragments of faience.

Second step- chasing a cast-iron bell, that is, we remove the remains of the neck from it and everything with which it was sealed there. I use a hammer and a steel-handled screwdriver for this. Having put on goggles, we get rid of foreign materials without cunning manipulations. Remember, the more thoroughly will be cleaned inner surface socket, the less likely it is to leak in this place during the operation of a newly installed toilet.
We are aiming for the following result:

But what if we are waiting for such a - "surprise" - an additional get up? And it is necessary to remove it, well, “blood from the nose”, but we are pursuing the goal - installing the toilet bowl professionally, and the size of the bathroom directly depends on this.

I will say right away, tune in to sweat and get nervous. But ... the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing.

Attention

In no case do we grab a hammer, everything is explained simply - cast iron is very fragile, and from blows it easily bursts in any other place, but not where we would like it. Violation of this rule is fraught with costly and time-consuming problems.

To help, we take a puncher with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 millimeters, and in the “hollow-drill” mode, we drill as many holes as possible around the entire circumference, directing it (the drill) into the groove between the tee socket and the pipe - the insert.

Sometimes, the location of this hemorrhoids does not allow to drill freely, in this case we cut off the grinder in close proximity to the socket, but remember: by cutting off you lose the opportunity to loosen, so to speak, therefore we resort to this in last resort while we drill and burn.

Burning is appropriate if the cavity was minted with a cable, or filled with sulfur, if it is filled with concrete or lead, the method does not work.

Before proceeding with burning, we ensure sufficient ventilation of the room and the absence of flammable agents and materials in the vicinity. The video will show you how it's done:

If it doesn't help, then there's only one way to get rid of this fucking stickman: cut it out. For this we use a grinder (angle grinder), or electric welding.

The technology is as follows: we cut off the stem at the very socket, visually find a thin place of the “remainder” and aim precisely at it. We put a small circle (already ground off during other work) on the grinder and make cuts from the inside. You make two cuts close to each other in the thinnest place, trying along the entire length of the “remainder”, that is, there, in depth. You can cut out a fragment of the type - a scarf, knock it out with a screwdriver and a hammer, and then by tapping with a hammer we tear off the remaining piece from our "habitat" place. If there are further difficulties with the removal, you can still make a cut from the inside in a place that is most convenient. That's all, the chasing behind.

Guys, if someone got into such difficulties, but there are no skills to use the grinder, then here is a link to the photo gallery, I found it on the Internet, everything is step by step:
Dismantling the cast-iron fan pipes turned out to be a problem
And we are waiting next step.

Surface preparation for mounting

The toilet was installed on a solid surface - excellent, but we will consider the most common option for attaching old toilets - on taffeta.
Taffeta is a board fifty millimeters thick embedded in the floor, in the old days it was on it that the toilet bowl was attached with screws or nails. Our task is to remove it (provided that it has rotted, which is often), everything is used: a hammer, a screwdriver, a puncher, in general, you will deal with this issue. Remove the taffeta, clean the freed cavity. Involved tool to the side.

We knead the mortar from a mixture of sand and cement, the proportions depend on the brand of cement and the recommended ratio, for example M-400 - here is one part of cement to four parts of sand, my advice to you is to dilute one part of cement to three parts of sand, we are pursuing the goal - faster hardening .
We fill the cavity with the solution, leveling it with the floor surface, but we don’t have time to wait until it sets, it takes up to three days, and the pot is needed almost hourly.
Each apartment has a stove, whether it be electric or gas, we take a baking sheet out of the oven and put it on top of the cemented place.

Broom handy? We take out the trash. Remember - a mess in the workplace leads to injuries.
Let's move on to the next step.

Toilet installation

Our goal is to install the device as close as possible to the sewer, and with minimal use of intermediate parts, especially those forming bends (turns). This does not always work out, just below I will post pictures of fittings that you can “play with”. In the meantime, consider the connection directly.
We will connect the pipe, which is in the picture. We smear the cuff of the pipe with technical petroleum jelly or simply with water, put it on the neck of the outlet, put a mark on the outlet, to what depth the pipe sat down and remove it.
We put the toilet bowl as close as possible to the socket of the tee, sit down on the side and, using imagination, draw the trajectory of the alignment of the toilet bowl outlet and the inlet sewer. Moving further or moving the device closer, we achieve the best comparability - actual at - the socket at an angle. Have you achieved? Throw the tank over and make sure it fits without hitting the wall.
We take a tape measure and start resting deep into the socket of the sewer tee, and on the mark that was set from the fitting of the pipe on the neck and there will be the size we need. We set aside this size on the pipe and cut off the excess with a grinder, remove the chamfer at the place of the cut. Everything, the connecting part is ready.

Now we need a transition cuff marked 110 * 123, we coat it on the outside, and the cleaned sewer socket along the inner perimeter with plumbing sealant, tapping with a hammer, hammer the cuff into the socket.
There is also such a moment: before smearing, put the cuff in place and make sure that it fits, it happens that you need to cut a small fragment out of it, full size won't fit. If there is a place to be, then the cuff cut will need to be placed at the highest point of the bell.
Further: we coat with sealant the cuff driven into the tee from the inside, we press the pipe, until it stops. Lubricate the neck of the toilet bowl and insert it into the pipe. All pots are in place.

I promised a snapshot of the parts used for misalignment, this is how they look:

If it is impossible to do without this, then legs in hand and in a specialized store selling plumbing. Corrugated pipes for the toilet are also on sale, there are reinforced and non-reinforced pipes, if any one suits you, then please use it, but this is not perfect option connections.

At the beginning of the article, I recommended purchasing a crane, I hope you initially screwed it on the way out water pipe for the tank, if not now is the time, we need a bucket of water. We throw it into the toilet and visually verify the tightness of the joints, if there is a “jamb”, then we eliminate it at this stage. We achieve tightness.

Let's move on to the next step.

Complete set and installation of the tank

There is an instruction with the new toilet, study and complete the tank in accordance with it, if the fittings on it are already screwed on, just make sure that they are tightened, tighten if necessary. Especially do not be zealous, all the same, you are dealing with plastic.

I will not dwell on the device, the topic of a separate article, and the components of various manufacturers differ slightly from each other. The principle of operation is the same: water inlet, with a float that stops its supply when the set displacement is reached, and a drain device (for some, it is dual-mode and adjustable, as mentioned earlier). In general, collect according to the instructions. I’ll just give you one point: there is a gasket at the junction of the tank with the toilet, and so it’s not always appropriate to coat it with sealant, but only when it’s impossible to do without it, whether it’s necessary or not, pressure testing will reveal. Initially, we do not smear. We throw on the tank and pull it to the toilet with the fastening bolts provided for this, tighten it alternately, with a uniform effort.

Here is a video in which the guy explains in detail the configuration of various tank fittings:

Crimping

Using an adjustable wrench, we connect the cold water supply to the tank with a flexible hose, pulling the hose fitting on the tank inlet device, hold it with your hand from the inside. It is important to prevent touching of the reinforcement elements, both among themselves and with the walls of the tank.

Open the faucet and monitor the filling. The video explains how the outlet overflow and the float are regulated, with the help of simple movements above - below, set the filling and draining modes that are convenient for you. We make sure that the float blocks the water until it reaches the overflow limit.

By pressing the shutter button, we drain the entire displacement to the maximum, carefully inspect the joints:
- flexible piping with inlet device
- inlet valve with reservoir body
- a toilet tank through a gasket
— bolts of fastening of a tank to a toilet bowl by means of cone laying
- outlet (neck) of the toilet bowl with a branch pipe (corrugation, eccentric)
- branch pipe (corrugations, eccentric) with a cuff
— cuffs with a socket of a sewer tee
- toilet and pan

With a conscientious attitude to the implementation of the above steps, the plumbing fixture simply must work flawlessly. If you have visually established the presence of leaks, gathering puddles, then it is natural to eliminate them.

Three examples of, so to speak, unforeseen, but possible leaks:

1. I, and many “gurus” of plumbing installation, advise you not to initially coat the rubber gasket located between the tank and the toilet with a sealant. This is inappropriate not at all out of fear of smearing everything or “hand-to-handling” - nonsense. The explanation is simple - when it is smeared, it slides, and when you try to tighten the fastening bolts, it moves out of its place.
So, if a leak is found from this place, you should remove the tank, wipe dry the surface of the gasket to the toilet bowl and the gasket itself. Spread one side of the gasket with silicone sealant with a layer of 2 - 3 mm and carefully, aligning the holes, put in place, lightly press down around the entire perimeter. Wait for the time required for the sealant to "set" - this is about half an hour - you can drink tea, then apply the same layer on top of the gasket and gently put the tank in its place, pull it. Ninety-five percent of achieving a positive result.

2. A thin trickle of water constantly flowing into the toilet:
Looking inside the tank, we make sure that the water edge does not reach the upper border of the overflow tube, if it is normal, then there may be several reasons for the leak:
- the cone gasket located under the clamping nut of the overflow tube is missing or jammed;
- the seat is not tightly attached to the tank body, or the surfaces of the places where the seat gasket fits are rough, smearing the gasket with sealant will get rid of the problem;
- a crack in the seat body;
- uneven fit of the "pear" to the plane of the saddle;

3. Puddle on a baking sheet
In all likelihood, in this case, there is a crack (microcrack) in the toilet body.

Well, let's not talk about sad things, they were pressured, everything is in order with us. It remains only the task of fixing our toilet to the floor.

This will have to be done after two to three days - the time required for the solution to harden. Before that, we naturally use the device with caution, because it is not stable.
We block the water, lower the tank, slightly raise the toilet bowl, pull out the baking sheet. We expose the toilet, if inadvertently displaced, we mark the places for drilling with a pencil or marker. We remove the toilet bowl to the side, drill holes with a puncher, drive in plastic dowels, put them in place and fasten them. We pull without applying much effort.

In case of an uneven fit to the floor, I recommend a gasket, which is a perfect piece of linoleum.
In order to avoid unsanitary conditions - the accumulation of small particles of debris, we coat the place where the toilet bowl fits the floor around the entire perimeter with silicone sealant.
That's all, our irreplaceable plumbing fixture is installed and ready for many years of use.

Tools used for installation:

So, theoretically, we have coped with the task. Having considered the whole process step by step, we have an idea of ​​the tool we need. Prepare in advance:
- hammer and screwdriver with iron handle
- adjustable wrench (Swedish)
— open-end wrenches 10*12, 13*14
- roulette
- perforator with a drill 5-6 mm
- a grinder, who does not have the skills to use, we replace with a metal blade, if necessary, a drill with drills with a diameter of 5-6 mm.
- plumbing sealant, linen or fum tape

Perhaps the following articles will be useful for the successful completion of the described work:

Well, that's all, dear reader, is there a desire to install the toilet yourself? I told you how the installation is done professionally. Once again, weigh your options, think about whether it’s worth getting involved with, maybe it’s easier to pay a third of the cost of a pot to a plumber, and calmly drink beer yourself while watching TV ??
And then I look at the darkness of articles on the Internet, like - install it yourself, there are no difficulties, everything is elementary and simple ... Yes, it’s simple, but all this needs to be done, and not done anyhow.
I'll tell you this: everyone should do their own thing, and earn what they can, and not count other people's money.

There were any questions, or there is something to supplement the article, you are welcome in the comments column.
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And that's all for me today, success in installation, with respect