Fungal disease of roses powdery mildew on the picture
With a fungal disease of roses, powdery mildew appears on young leaves, shoots and buds; there is a thickening and curvature of them.
As you can see in the photo, powdery mildew on roses appears as a whitish bloom, which is a mycelium and sporulation of the fungus:
Powdery mildew on roses 
Powdery mildew on roses appears as a whitish bloom (photo)
The causative agent of the disease overwinters in the form of mycelium in the kidneys. The development of the disease is facilitated by excessive nitrogen fertilizer, a lack of calcium in the soil, drying out of the soil, too light sandy or, conversely, cold, damp soils.
The disease develops especially strongly with insufficient lighting and high humidity. A sharp change in temperature, drafts, drying out of the earth and other conditions that disrupt the normal life of plants reduce their resistance to disease. Tea and hybrid tea roses with more delicate foliage are especially affected.
Resistant to powdery mildew are varieties of roses that have dense glossy leaves of the "Gloria Day" type.
For the treatment of powdery mildew on roses, when the first signs of the disease appear, it is necessary to spray the bushes with Topaz, Pure Flower, Fundazol or Skor. At temperatures above 22 ° C, it is possible to spray with "Grey colloid" or "Thiovit Jet". If necessary, to combat this rose disease, treatments are repeated as young growth and powdery mildew spots appear on them.
Rust of roses in the photo
With this disease of roses in flowers, the affected parts of the shoots are bent and thickened. In spring, orange dust appears on the stems at the opening buds and at the root collar. These are spring sporulation of the fungus - the causative agent of the stem form of rust. The fungus overwinters in the tissues of plants infected in previous years. The disease develops more intensively in years with a warm and humid spring.
Rust fungi not only take away nutrients from the plant, but also greatly disrupt its physiological functions: they increase transpiration, reduce photosynthesis, make breathing difficult and worsen metabolism.
In rose rust disease, small, red-yellow pads of summer spores form on the leaves on the underside in summer, which can give several generations and infect new plants.
In the second half of summer, winter sporulation begins to appear on the underside of the leaves in the form of small rounded black pads.
Look at the photo - if this rose disease has severely affected the plant, the leaves turn completely yellow and fall prematurely:
Affected parts of rose shoots (photo) 
In case of rose disease, rust on the leaves on the underside in the summer forms small, red-yellow pads of summer spores (photo)
The spread of rust fungus spores occurs with air flow, water, and planting material.
To protect roses from this disease, one-way nitrogen fertilization should be avoided. In autumn, it is necessary to remove and burn the affected foliage, and in early spring(before bud break) spray the plants and the soil around them with iron sulfate (1-1.5%). The soil under the bushes should be loosened and mulched to reduce infection.
For the treatment of rose rust, it is necessary to carefully and timely cut off the shoots affected by the stem form of rust, from the moment the buds open, re-spray the plants with Bordeaux mixture (1%) or its substitutes (“Oksihom”, “Abiga-Peak”, “Hom”, “ Copper oxychloride”, “Ordan”).
Rose leaf disease black spot in the photo
Rose disease black spot is also called marsonine by the name of the fungus - the causative agent of the disease. In the second half of summer, dark brown, almost black, spots form on the leaves. different sizes. The leaves turn brown and often fall prematurely. Spots may also appear on the green bark of annual shoots.
Plants with prematurely fallen leaves sometimes begin to grow again, as a result of which they are greatly weakened and bloom poorly the next year.
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of the rose spot disease, which forms radiantly growing bands.
As can be seen in the photo, with this disease of roses, radiance is clearly visible at the edge of the spots:
With this disease of roses, radiance is clearly visible at the edge of the spots (photo) 
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of rose spot disease (photo)
This disease of rose leaves is more pronounced with a dense planting, in shaded places, with poor ventilation of the site.
Measures to combat this disease include:
- proper agricultural technology that increases the resistance of plants;
- careful collection and fall of the affected leaves and burning them;
- spraying plants during the growing season with preparations containing copper, which are used in the fight against rust.
- for the treatment of this disease of roses, it is recommended to use a special preparation for spraying (Skor to protect roses), which is a systemic fungicide of preventive and curative action.
Treatments should be started at the first signs of the disease and repeated after each rain or heavy dew.
These photos show how to treat rose disease black spot:
Rose bacterial cancer disease in the photo
With bacterial cancer of roses, growths of various sizes are formed on the root collar and roots of plants. Sometimes they are barely noticeable, but often reach several centimeters in diameter. The growths have an uneven tuberculate surface. They consist of soft tissue, first white, then brown and decomposed by bacteria in the soil.
There are also hard lignified growths that grow every year. The aerial part is less often affected - trunks and branches, mainly in climbing and standard remontant roses. Here tuberculate nodules and tumors of various sizes are formed.
Cancer-causing bacteria infect many plants belonging to different families. Infection occurs through wounds on the roots of plants, from the soil, where bacteria can persist for a very long time.
The development of the disease is facilitated by high soil moisture, abundant manure fertilizer, damage to the roots, alkaline soil reaction.
When transplanting plants with an affected root neck, they must be destroyed, and the growths on the lateral roots should be cut off. To treat this disease of roses, the roots after pruning are immersed for 5 minutes in a 1% solution. blue vitriol and then washed in water and dipped in liquid mixture clay with sand. Avoid excess manure fertilizer, kill insects that damage the roots, do not dig the soil near the bushes.
Look at the photo of rose cancer treatment:
Fungal disease burn branches of roses in the photo
Branch burn is fungal disease, in which, on the branches, reddish spots appear at first, later darkening in the middle; red-brown edging persists for a long time. Growing, the spots ring the branches. Above the affected area, tissue influxes may form. Sick branches usually dry out in late summer.
The development of "burn" contributes to excess moisture under the winter shelter.
To avoid severe damage to roses, the shelter should be removed earlier in the spring. Sick and frosted branches must be cut and burned in a timely manner.
As shown in the photo, in the treatment of this disease of roses, plants should be sprayed with preparations containing copper, as in the fight against rust:
Proper agricultural practices (timely fertilization, loosening and watering) contribute to reducing the harmfulness of the disease. It is necessary to achieve good maturation of wood until the end of the vegetation of plants.
For the winter, plants with already fallen leaves should be covered, if possible, in dry weather, so that increased humidity is not created under the shelter. Before shelter, unripened shoots with green leaves are removed, and the plants are sprayed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture or a 1.5% solution. iron sulphate.
Cytosporosis is a fungal disease of roses in the photo
Cytosporosis is a fungal disease that is ubiquitous. Roses are affected by a number of ornamental shrubs, as well as pome and stone fruit trees, nuts.
Cytosporosis is also called infectious drying. In some years, it leads not only to the drying of individual branches, but also to the death of plants. This disease bushes weakened as a result of freezing, drought, sunburn, untimely pruning, etc. are especially susceptible.
First, the causative agent of the disease settles on dying individual sections of the cortex. On the entire area of the affected bark, large, clearly visible orange-red tubercles-pycnidia of the fungus appear, protruding from under the skin.
Look at the photo - with this disease of roses, cracks form on the border of the affected and healthy tissue:
The causative agent of the disease first moves up through the tissues and vessels of plants, and after the branches dry up, down, killing the cells adjacent to the zone of its distribution with its toxins.
The disease of cytosporosis should be considered as a secondary phenomenon associated with a general weakening of plants, therefore, when choosing control measures, it is first of all necessary to protect the bushes from mechanical and other damage.
Also, regularly carry out activities that increase the viability of plants - timely and correct pruning, fertilization, tillage, watering, protection from sunburn, increasing winter hardiness, cutting and burning branches with signs of disease, capturing up to 5 cm of the healthy part of the branch.
Early spring spraying of roses with a 1.5% solution of copper sulfate on the "sleeping" buds and 3% Bordeaux liquid on the green cone to some extent restrains the spread and development of the disease.
Trimming bushes in optimal timing protects roses from the appearance of cytosporosis.
Gray rot on roses (photo)
From the gray rot of roses (botrytis), mainly buds with pedicels, the tops of young stems and leaves suffer - in wet weather they are covered with a gray fluffy coating.
First of all, this disease of garden roses attacks weakened plants, and most often - with white and light pink flowers. The buds on roses affected by botrytis do not open, rot and fall off. Small brown spots appear on the petals, the leaves turn yellow and also fall off.
Foci of infection persist in plant debris in the form of mycelium, which forms spores in spring. The spores are then dispersed by insects and the wind. Therefore, an undesirable "neighbor" for roses is, for example, garden strawberry, very susceptible to botrytis.
Gray rot appears on roses with dense plantings, or if the rose garden is watered late in the evening, when the rose leaves do not have time to dry before night.
How to deal with gray mold of roses on personal plot? Control and prevention measures for this rose disease are the same as against other fungal diseases.
Interesting facts about rose diseases
Speaking about diseases of roses, we can highlight several interesting facts:
- You can determine how resistant roses are to diseases by the leaves: if they are dense and shiny, covered with a wax coating, the variety is resistant. The fact is that wax prevents the penetration of infection into the leaf, which means it prevents infection.
- Absolutely disease-resistant varieties do not exist. Even those varieties that are marked “disease-resistant” in the catalogs lose this valuable quality after 5-6 years, as the diseases adapt to changing conditions and mutate like the flu. Therefore, old varieties of roses can only be found in amateur gardens, but not in flower farms and on city streets.
- Gray rot, for example, multiplies especially quickly in wet weather, and given that many gardeners plant roses thickly, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain or watering.
- Leaves that do not dry out for a long time or cool nights, dew in the morning favor the defeat of black spot. Powdery mildew, and from pests - spider mites, on the contrary, love dry and hot weather. Therefore, roses growing near southern walls or fences are especially affected by these pests.
- Flower growers can to some extent influence the development of diseases and the appearance of pests, as well as predict their appearance. Strong, well-groomed plants get sick less often and weaker, more intensively resist pest settlement.
Watch the video "Diseases of Roses", which shows all the main plant diseases and methods of dealing with them:
How to treat roses for diseases: effective remedies
All flower growers, without exception, are interested in how to treat roses from diseases. The most effective remedies for rose diseases include the following drugs.
Alirin-B- a biological preparation based on beneficial microorganisms isolated from natural sources. Effective in the fight against powdery mildew of flower-decorative and other plants.
"Gliocladin"- an analogue of the well-known drug "Trichodermin". Effective against a wide range of fungal diseases such as Fusarium, white and gray rot, late blight, root and stem rot, black leg and keel of cabbage.
"Gamair"- a preparation designed to protect against a wide range of bacterial diseases: bacterial leaf spots, bacterial burn, bacterial cancer.
"Topaz"- a systemic fungicide for the protection of ornamental, pome, stone fruit, berry, vegetable crops and vine from powdery mildew. This preparation for the treatment of roses against diseases can be used as a protective, curative and exterminating agent also against rust. The drug is available as an emulsion concentrate.
As a fighter with a high degree of powdery mildew damage, Topaz is used in high concentrations (up to 10 ml), conducting 2 sprays with an interval of 7 days.
The drug provides reliable protection from powdery mildew, even on a high infectious background. Topaz is non-phytotoxic and does not leave stains on treated leaves and fruits. As a prophylactic, it reduces the number of treatments, as it works for 40 days. The drug meets modern safety requirements for humans and environment. It is quickly absorbed by plants, which reduces the risk of washing off the drug by rain.
In order to avoid the emergence of resistance to powdery mildew pathogens, it is recommended to alternate Topaz with contact copper-containing preparations and colloidal gray and not use more than 4 times per season on the same crop.
"Topaz" compatible with most pest and disease control products used in gardens. Speed of influence - in 2-3 hours after spraying.
And how else to treat roses from diseases and to prevent infections in the garden?
"Pure Flower"- a new drug for the protection of flower and ornamental crops from diseases (fungicide).
Method of application: the required rate of the drug in a special container is dissolved in a small amount of water. Then, with constant stirring, bring the volume of the working solution to 5 or 10 liters. The working fluid is prepared immediately before use and used completely on the same day. Term safe exit people for manual work - after 7 days. Speed of influence of a preparation: in 2 hours after processing.
The period of protective action: with preventive treatments - 7-15 days, in conditions of intensive development of diseases - 7 days.
Therapeutic effect of the drug: within 4 days from the moment of infection. Amateur gardeners are not recommended to mix this preparation with other means of protection when spraying plants.
"Pure Flower" is an analogue of the drug "Raek".
"Fundazol"- systemic preparation and protectant planting material to protect against a range of diseases.
When using the drug, fill the container for dressing the planting material with water by 1/3, then pour the required amount of the drug, mix thoroughly and add the remaining amount of water.
Spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, preferably in the morning (before 10 am) or in the evening (6-10 pm), evenly wetting the leaves. The working solution cannot be stored!
"Skor to Protect Roses" from black spot, ornamental and fruit crops from a complex of diseases. It is a systemic fungicide of preventive and curative action. The contents of the ampoule must be diluted in water.
Spray with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, evenly wetting the plants.
Consumption of working fluid: on a rose - up to 1 liter per plant; on flowering plants and ornamental shrubs- up to 10 liters per 100 m2.
Do not store working solution! Release dates for handmade: 3 days. Compatibility with other pesticides is impractical. The period of protective action is 7-14 days. Exposure time: two hours after treatment. Not phytotoxic. Cultures are tolerant to the drug. There is no resistance. Not dangerous for bees (grade 3). Toxic to fish, do not allow to enter the aquatic environment.
"Copper oxychloride"(wettable powder) - one of the copper-containing drugs to combat diseases of vegetable and fruit crops.
When using the contents of the package (40 g) dilute in 10 liters of water. It is necessary to spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, preferably in the morning (before 10 o'clock) or in the evening (18-22 o'clock), evenly wetting the leaves. In the recommended doses, the drug is not phytotoxic. The period of protective action is 7-10 days.
The drug is dangerous for bees and fish, do not treat during flowering. Do not allow to enter watercourses.
These photos show effective means for the treatment of diseases of roses:
How to spray roses for diseases: the best drugs
Not sure how to spray roses for diseases to protect flowers? Then use the following drugs, which are considered among the best.
"Abiga Peak" is a copper-containing fungicide of contact action, designed to combat a complex of fungal and bacterial diseases on vegetable, fruit, ornamental and flower crops, vines and medicinal plants.
Apply the drug during the growing season by spraying plants.
The 50 g package is designed to prepare 10 liters of working solution for the treatment of 100 m2.
The contents of the vial are preliminarily dissolved in 1 l of water and, with thorough mixing, brought to 10 l with water - a working solution for spraying is obtained.
Spraying is carried out prophylactically or when the first signs of the disease appear. Plants are processed, evenly covering shoots, leaves and fruits with a working solution.
Attention! All solutions should be prepared in plastic, glass or enamelware.
This preparation against diseases of roses provides reliable protection of plants from diseases even under adverse weather conditions. The composition of the drug includes an adhesive that allows the active substance "Abiga-Peak" to be firmly held on the treated plant surface.
Very important!"Abiga-Peak" is compatible with almost all known modern insecticides and fungicides. Easy to use, non-toxic. The drug does not produce dust when preparing a working solution. Prepared, but due to weather conditions, the unused solution can be stored for a long time.
"Abiga Peak" beneficial effect on the quality of the products grown. With its application, a good maturation of young shoots is observed.
The best means to combat rose diseases are shown in the photo:
"Thiovit Jet"- a means to combat diseases of flower and fruit crops.
How to use: dissolve the norm of the drug in a small amount of water, then, gradually stirring, add water up to 10 liters. Processing should be carried out with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, ensuring uniform wetting of the leaves.
"Thiovit" has good adhesion, has a contact effect and an active gas phase; practically non-toxic to birds, bees, fish.
The advantages of the drug are that it is both a fungicide, an acaricide, and a trace element; provides reliable plant protection for 7-10 days; can be used for preventive spraying, has good compatibility with other pesticides.
"Sulfur colloidal" It is mainly used to control powdery mildew and various types of herbivorous mites on flower crops. It shows efficiency only at air temperatures above +20 ... + 22 ° С, since sulfur vapors work.
Mode of application. When preparing the working fluid, the preparation is first stirred in a small amount of warm water until a creamy state, and then water is added, mixing the composition well (it is better to soak the preparation the day before, 2-5 hours before processing).
The term of the last treatment before harvesting is 3 days.
For humans and warm-blooded animals, the drug is not dangerous. "Sulfur colloidal", as a rule, does not burn the leaves.
However, many varieties of gooseberries shed their leaves after processing. Therefore, do not use sulfur to control American gooseberry powdery mildew and do not spray roses near this shrub.
Remember! Before treating rose diseases, you must carefully read the instructions for using a particular drug.
Like all cultivated plants, roses suffer from diseases and pests. However, this should not be taken as something inevitable. special danger harmful organisms represent, as a rule, roses growing in unfavorable conditions for culture. Sometimes decisive role play certain weather conditions, and more often - a combination of these factors.
Of the pests, the most common are: rose aphid, thrips, spider mite, rose leaf cicada; roses also damage various types of sawflies, nutcrackers, beetles, weevils, bronzovka, etc.
High temperatures, for example, can promote the reproduction of some pests, and prolonged wet weather causes the spread of fungal diseases.
If, moreover, roses grow in an inappropriate place for them, then diseases are inevitable:
- Gray rot, for example, spreads especially quickly in wet weather, besides, many gardeners plant roses thickly, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain.
- Leaves that do not dry out for a long time or cool nights, dew in the morning favor the defeat of black spot.
- Powdery mildew, and from pests - spider mites, on the contrary, love dry and hot weather. Therefore, roses growing near southern walls or fences are especially affected by these pests.
Pests and diseases of roses with photos, descriptions and methods of treatment - to your attention on this page.
Fungal disease of roses powdery mildew and how to get rid of it
To get started, check out the photo and description of the powdery mildew disease of roses, which develops due to a lack of calcium or drying out of the soil.
powdery mildew. Powdery coating appears on young leaves, shoots and buds; their thickening and curvature are observed.
Powdery mildew on roses is a mycelium and sporulation of the fungus. The causative agent of the disease overwinters in the form of mycelium in the kidneys. The development of the disease is facilitated by excessive nitrogen fertilizer, a lack of calcium in the soil, drying out of the soil, too light sandy or, conversely, cold, damp soils.
See photos of powdery mildew on roses below:
IN closed ground this disease of roses develops especially strongly in rooms with insufficient lighting, humid stale air. Sudden changes in temperature, drafts, drying out of soil in pots and other conditions that disrupt the normal life of plants reduce their resistance to disease. Tea roses and varieties with more delicate foliage are especially affected by this fungal disease of roses.
How to get rid of powdery mildew on roses and prevent re-infection?
When the first signs of the disease appear, it is necessary to spray the bushes: "Topaz", "Fundazol" or "Soon". You can use the systemic drug "Raek" with long-term preventive and therapeutic effects.
Rust on roses: a description of the disease and how to treat it
Rust. The affected parts of the shoots are bent and thickened.
As can be seen in the photo, with this disease of roses in the spring, orange dust appears on the stems of the blossoming buds and at the root collar:
These are spring sporulation of the fungus - the causative agent of the stem form of rust. The fungus overwinters in the tissues of plants infected in previous years. Rust on roses develops most intensively in years with a warm and humid spring.
Rust fungi not only take away nutrients from the plant, but also greatly disrupt its physiological functions: they increase transpiration, reduce photosynthesis, make breathing difficult and worsen metabolism.
In summer, small, red-yellow pads of summer spores form on the underside of the leaves, which can take several generations and infect new plants.
In the second half of summer, winter sporulation begins to appear on the underside of the leaves in the form of small rounded black pads. With a strong defeat of the disease, the leaves turn completely yellow and fall prematurely.
The spread of rust fungus spores occurs with air flow, water, and planting material.
How to treat rust on roses and when is the best time to treat plants?
For rust control, one-way nitrogen fertilization should be avoided. In autumn, it is necessary to remove and burn the affected foliage, and in early spring (before bud break), spray the plants and the soil around them with iron sulfate (1 - 1.5%). The soil under the bushes should be loosened and mulched to reduce infection.
It is recommended carefully and in a timely manner, affected by the stem form of rust. To treat this disease of roses, from the moment the buds open, re-spray the plants (1% - th) or its substitutes (Oxyhom, Abiga-Peak, Hom, copper oxychloride, Ordan, Topaz).
How to deal with rose leaf black spot disease
Black leaf spot (marsonina). In the second half of summer, dark brown, almost black, spots of various sizes form on the leaves. The leaves turn brown and often fall prematurely. Spots may also appear on the green bark of annual shoots.
Plants with prematurely fallen leaves sometimes begin to grow again, as a result of which they are greatly weakened and bloom poorly the next year.
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of the disease, forming radiantly growing strands. This radiance in case of black spot disease of rose leaves is clearly visible at the edge of the spots. Leaves that do not dry out for a long time or cool nights, dew in the morning favor the defeat of black spot.
Roses are more ill when planted thickly, in shaded places, with poor ventilation of the site.
How to deal with black spot on rose leaves and when to start processing plants?
Measures to combat this disease include: proper agricultural practices that increase plant resistance; careful removal of affected leaves in autumn and burning them; spraying plants during the growing season with preparations containing copper, which are used in the fight against rust. Treatments should be started at the first signs of the disease and repeated after each rain or heavy dew.
Gray rot on roses: description and how to fight
The following describes the rose rot disease, and how to deal with it in the garden.
Gray rot, for example, in wet weather it multiplies especially quickly, and given that many gardeners plant roses densely, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain or watering. This fungal disease primarily affects the buds and pedicels. A whitish-gray fluffy coating appears on them. The buds do not open, they rot.
Fogs and morning dews, as well as excessive sprinkling watering, especially in the evening, contribute to the development of gray rot of roses. With excessive moisture, the entire bush can get sick and die.
Do not plant roses next to strawberries that suffer from gray mold more often than other plants.
How to deal with gray mold on roses using effective means?
At the first signs of the disease, spray the affected plants with a solution of the Euparen multi preparation. Also water the soil under the bushes with a solution of Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B or Gamair.
Bacterial cancer on roses: photos and how to deal with the disease
bacterial cancer. On the root collar and roots of plants, growths of various sizes are formed. Sometimes they are barely noticeable, but often reach several centimeters in diameter.
See what bacterial cancer looks like on roses - the growths are made up of soft tissue, have an uneven tuberous surface:
In the process of decomposition by bacteria, the color gradually changes from white to brown. There are also hard lignified growths that grow every year.
The above-ground part is less often affected - trunks and branches, mainly at and standard remontant roses. Here tuberculate nodules and tumors of various sizes are formed.
The pathogen that causes bacterial canker on roses affects many plants belonging to different families. Infection occurs through wounds on the roots of plants, from the soil, where bacteria can persist for a very long time.
The development of the disease is facilitated by high soil moisture, abundant manure fertilizer, wounded roots, and alkaline soil reaction.
When transplanting plants with an affected root neck, they must be destroyed, and the growths on the lateral roots should be cut off. After pruning, the roots are immersed for 5 minutes in a 1% solution of copper sulfate, and then washed in water and dipped in a liquid mixture of clay and sand. With stem cancer, depressed necrotic spots first appear, on which the bark cracks, then their edges thicken. Affected stems die off if the edges of the spots close.
Burn of leaves and branches of a rose: description and fight against the disease
The burn of leaves and branches of roses is a fungal disease. Reddish spots appear on the branches at first, later - spots darkening in the middle; red-brown edging persists for a long time. Growing, the spots ring the branches. Above the affected area, tissue influxes may form. Sick branches usually dry out in the second half of summer.
The development of "burn" contributes to excess moisture under the winter shelter.
To avoid severe damage to roses, the shelter should be removed earlier in the spring. Sick and frosted branches must be cut and burned in a timely manner, and plants should be sprayed with preparations containing copper, as in the fight against rust.
Correct agrotechnics (timely application of fertilizers, loosening and watering) contributes to the reduction of the harmfulness of the disease, it is necessary to achieve good maturation of the wood until the end of the vegetation of the plants.
For the winter, plants should be covered, if possible, in dry weather in such a way that increased humidity is not created under the shelter.
Before shelter, unripened shoots and leaves are removed, and the plants are sprayed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture or a 1.5% solution of ferrous sulfate.
Cytosporosis: photo and treatment of roses from the disease
Cytosporosis This fungal disease is ubiquitous. It affects roses, as well as pome and stone fruit trees, and a number of ornamental shrubs.
Cytosporosis is also called infectious drying. In some years, it leads not only to the drying of individual branches, but also to the death of plants. Bushes weakened as a result of freezing, drought, sunburn, untimely pruning, etc. are especially susceptible to this disease.
First, the causative agent of the disease settles on dying individual sections of the cortex. On the entire area of the affected bark, large, clearly visible orange-red tubercles appear - pycnidia of the fungus protruding from under the skin.
Cracks form on the border of the affected and healthy tissue. The causative agent of the disease first moves up through the tissues and vessels of plants, and after the branches dry up, down, killing the cells adjacent to the zone of its distribution with its toxins.
The disease of cytosporosis should be considered as a secondary phenomenon associated with a general weakening of plants, therefore, when choosing control measures, it is first of all necessary to protect the bushes from mechanical and other damage. And also regularly carry out activities that increase the viability of plants - timely and proper pruning, fertilization, tillage, watering, protection from sunburn, increasing winter hardiness, cutting and burning branches that have signs of disease with up to 5 cm of the healthy part of the branch.
How to treat roses from this disease in order to contain the spread of infection?
Early spring pruning of plants, spraying roses with 0.5% Abiga-Peak or 3% Bordeaux liquid over a green cone to some extent restrain the spread and development of the disease.
Pest of flowers and buds of roses green aphid
Aphid green damages roses and wild roses, harms in greenhouses and open ground. The pest among other aphid species is quite large, shiny, green, sometimes brown with very long black antennae.
In the spring, the larvae of these pests of rosebuds emerge from the overwintered eggs, turning into wingless females. Among subsequent generations, winged female settlers appear, flying to other plants, where they form new colonies. Ten generations or more develop during the year.
These pests of roses in the open field usually increase in June, and they harm until the end of summer. Aphids settle mainly at the ends of young shoots and buds, there are few aphids on leaves. Damaged by green aphids, rose shoots are often twisted, and the buds do not open.
The treatment of roses from these pests begins when the first larvae appear and is repeated as needed in two to three weeks until the aphid disappears completely. For this purpose, use: "Iskra Double Effect", "Iskra-M" or "Confidor", "Commander", "Tanrek", "Bison".
An essential advantage of the listed preparations against pests of rose flowers is their high efficiency even in hot weather, a systemic mechanism of action, rapid penetration into plant tissues and not being washed off by rain.
In nature, aphids are destroyed by lacewings and ladybugs.
Spider mite on roses: photo and how to get rid of it
spider mite on a rose is especially dangerous for roses in dry, hot summers. Optimal conditions for its development is the temperature + 29 ... + 31 ° with air humidity below 35%. Under such conditions, the number of ticks increases rapidly, because every 10-15 days a new generation of the pest appears.
As you can see in the photo, the spider mite on the rose sucks the cell sap from the leaves, as a result of which small light spots (pricks) appear on them, the leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off:
How to get rid of spider mites on a rose by spraying?
Most effective against spider mite are: Fufanon and Iskra-M. Spraying roses in the presence of a tick must be repeated after 10-12 days until its harmfulness is reduced. If you use Thiovit Jet or colloidal sulfur in the fight against powdery mildew, then these drugs inhibit the reproduction of ticks.
Rose leafhopper: description and treatment of roses from a pest
Below you will find a description of the cicada rose pest and learn about the fight against it in your summer cottage.
Rose leafhopper. The larvae of the rose leafhopper settle on the underside of the leaves, sucking out the juice. The upper surface of the leaves changes color, they turn white, acquiring a marble color. With a large number of pests, damaged leaves fall prematurely. Roses growing in warm sheltered places especially suffer from leafhoppers.
The pest itself is a small insect of white-yellow color with two pairs of wings, which, in a calm state, fold over the back like a roof. The length of an adult insect is 3.5 mm, the width is 0.7 mm.
Look at the photo - this pest of roses resembles an apple blotch:
The larva is white or pale yellow with a wedge-shaped abdomen. The length of the larva is 2 - 3 mm, the width is 0.8 mm.
Eggs hibernate on branches at the base of the buds and in forks. The larvae appear during bud break. Develop during May-June. Unlike aphid larvae and psyllids, they are very mobile: disturbed, they quickly run away to the opposite side of the leaf.
At the end of June, the larvae develop wing rudiments and turn into nymphs. In early July, leafhoppers fledge, adult insects appear. Winged leafhoppers, as well as larvae and nymphs, settle on the underside of the leaf, sucking the juice out of them. After fledging, the adult leafhopper leaves the leaf on which it has fed and flies to grass and other plants or branches.
On leaves damaged by cicadas - whitish with marble colors - white skins remain on the underside after molting of larvae and nymphs.
In addition to roses, leafhoppers damage rose hips and other plants from the Rosaceae family.
How to treat roses from these pests to protect plants?
In pest control, use the same drugs as in the fight against aphids. When spraying roses against pests, make sure that the underside of the leaf is carefully covered with a poison solution.
Rose sawfly and leaf cutter bee on roses
Here you can find a photo description of rose pests - rose sawfly and leaf cutter bee.
sawflies(rosaceous, slimy, comb-like, descending) eat leaves from the edges or scrape off the upper skin of the leaf, eat holes in the leaves. And the descending sawfly, having appeared at the top of the young shoot, penetrates the shoot, grinds a passage up to 4 cm long there, as a result, the shoot hangs, the leaves on it wither. Sawflies overwinter in the soil in cocoons.
To combat these pests, the same preparations are used as against aphids, and spraying with the Lightning preparation also gives a high effect.
leaf cutter bee. On the leaves of roses and wild roses in late June - July, you can see correctly cut oval or completely round holes.
This is the work of the leaf-cutter bee, which uses them to build its nest. By choosing a suitable finished cavity - an abandoned bee mink, a barbel move or a mink earthworm- the bee begins to clog it with carelessly cut pieces of rough leaves of oak, grapes, hawthorn. This plug serves to protect the socket.
After the cork is made, the bee begins to cut oval pieces of the more delicate rose leaves,. Sitting on a leaf, she, like scissors, carefully “cuts” it, starting from the edge and gradually turning in a circle. First, the outer layer of the cell is made from large leaves, covering about a third of the circumference of the channel, so that individual pieces overlap each other, and their lower ends are bent, forming the bottom of the cell. After that, with smaller pieces of leaves, the builder closes the gaps left between the first pieces and thickens the walls.
In order to seal the cell filled with food, the bee cuts out perfectly round pieces of leaves. In this case, the diameter of the first of them is exactly equal to the diameter of the cell, and the subsequent ones are cut out large and turn out to be concave inward, forming the bottom of the next cell. The first cell is followed by the second, and so on.
The largest nest of the leaf-cutter bee has up to 17 cells. In total, it takes more than 1000 pieces of leaves to build a nest, including cork.
The finished nest of a bee - leaf cutter is a long cylinder, easily breaking up into separate cells. The leaves from which each of them is made are easy to disassemble. Later it is more difficult to do this, because, pupating, the larva releases a sticky liquid between the pieces of leaves, which, when solidified, holds them together.
You can protect roses from this bee by spraying plants in the late evenings with one of the preparations that destroy wasps ("Super Fas", "Otos"),
A new tool has appeared - the bait from the wasps "Adamant". Wasps are also repelled by the drug "Sovka-Zh". In the ground, nests can be filled with boiling water.
Beetles on roses: weevils and bronzovka
The most dangerous beetles on roses are weevil and bronze.
Weevils (leaf beetle). These are pests that gnaw on the edges of the leaves of all types of roses - beetles of rather large sizes (up to 1 cm). They are black and gray and flightless. They lead an active lifestyle at night, and during the day they hide under lumps of soil. That's why we don't see them. But not only weevil beetles are dangerous for roses, but also their legless larvae, just as large, ivory. The larvae live exclusively in the ground and eat the roots.
With a large number of pests, rose bushes may die. Due to severe damage to the leaves, their useful area is reduced, and the plants wither, and then there are weakened roots.
Weevils are especially dangerous for bushes growing in the shade of trees, in dense plantings, with poor ventilation, and also for old bushes weakened by time and poor agricultural practices.
Beetles can be dealt with by spraying roses with one of the insecticides at sunset in the evening. Beetles can be collected by hand after dark by the light of a flashlight, of course, if there are not very many of them yet.
Bronzing golden. This brilliant green beetle with a copper-gold tint is very fond of yellow and white roses. The beetle is quite large (10-15 mm long and 12-14 mm wide). From the underside - bronze-green color with a metallic sheen. On the elytra there are transverse thin, irregular shape, white stripes.
Beetles damage flowers by eating stamens and pistils, nibbling petals.
Gardeners call it "Maybeetle". The larva lives in the ground, it is six-legged, thick, white, up to 60 mm long, very similar to the May beetle larva, but, unlike the latter, it feeds on humus and does not damage the root.
At the end of summer, the larvae pupate, beetles emerge from them, which spend the winter in the soil, and fly out the next summer.
Beetles fly from May to August, damaging flowers not only of roses, but also of white lilies and fruit plants.
Since plants cannot be sprayed with pesticides during the flowering period, the main measure to combat bronzovka is manual collection beetles early in the morning, when they do not fly, but sit motionless on flowers.
Walnut and scoop on roses: photo and spraying from pests
Nutworker. These galls form insect pests. They are able to destroy the entire crop of wild rose, to deplete the bush. With severe damage, growth decreases, winter hardiness of plants decreases. Nutweeds hibernate as larvae in damaged fruits. The years of adult insects and infection of young ovaries comes in late May - early June.
In the fight against the nutworm, it is necessary immediately after flowering to spray the wild rose twice with the same pesticides as against aphids and other pests. Good results gives the use of the drug "Lightning" (2 ml per 10 liters of water).
In parallel, mechanical struggle should be carried out (cut off and burn the galls that appear).
scoops. Cutworm caterpillars live in the soil and feed mainly at night, so we often see only traces of their activities.
If there is a lot of damage, use pesticides (the same as against aphids), spraying in the evening after sunset.
Depending on the degree of damage, the bud can give a deformed flower, so it is better not to leave it on the plant.
Thrips on roses: photo and fight against them
thrips. Small (up to 1 mm) sucking pest. Larvae, nymphs and adults of this pest feed on buds, flowers, leaves and young shoots of roses.
As you can see in the photo, thrips on roses have a light yellow color:
Thrips weaken roses by sucking juices from leaves, buds and flowers. Buds and flowers damaged by pests, especially of light colors, are covered with characteristic small red specks. The flower becomes disheveled and quickly fades. At the base of the petals, pests are clearly visible to the naked eye. Small yellow spots appear on the leaves. They acquire a silvery hue, as if damaged by a spider mite.
Adult insects overwinter in top layer soil and under plant debris.
Roses that grow in warm, dry places, such as near the walls of a house, on terraces on the south side, or near paths and areas tiled or covered with asphalt, are most at risk.
In spring, thrips feed on weeds, then Persians fly to rose bushes.
In greenhouses, the pest gives up to eight generations per year. One generation develops within 22 - 30 days.
To combat thrips on roses in case of severe damage, the same preparations are used to spray roses as in the fight against aphids.
Handsome and blooming garden is not only planting cultivated plants, but also daily care after them. Of course, unique decoration any garden will become the "queen of flowers" rose. Have you noticed black spots on rose leaves? At the same time, you don’t know what to do with the plant and how to treat the leaves? Then this article is for you!
Causes and symptoms of appearance
The effectiveness of the fight against any disease depends on the correct definition of the disease and finding out the causes. The black spot of roses is easily identified by its characteristic features:
- the bush stops growing and does not throw out new buds;
- dark spots form on the lower leaves of the plant, which visually resemble the sun in their shape;
- the diameter of the spots can be from 5 to 15 mm;
- a brownish tone of the middle with a yellow edging gradually acquire a darker color;
- small black spots on roses eventually combine into one large one, affecting the entire leaf, as a result of which the leaf turns yellow, dries up and falls off;
- disease moves from bottom to top.
The disease progresses especially in the second half of summer. During one growing season, several active outbreaks are possible. Climbing, tea and polyanthus varieties of roses are at risk.
In addition to defining the disease (black spot of roses is often confused with powdery mildew), it is important to establish the causes that could affect the occurrence and development of the disease. So, the key reasons are:
- improperly chosen place for planting a seedling (poor air circulation, lack of sun, as well as a large number of plants prevent the evaporation of moisture, which contributes to the development of the fungus);
- weather and climatic conditions (an abundance of precipitation, after which the dry season begins - an excellent environment for the reproduction of spores of fungal infections);
- improperly organized top dressing (both lack and excess of fertilizers);
- lack of proper care for ornamental culture.
What is the danger to the plant
Black spot on roses is a dangerous disease. As you know, any disease is much easier to prevent than to deal with it later. possible consequences But, as they say, everything happens in life. They did not carry out timely prevention of diseases of ornamental culture or did not pay attention to black and brown spots on the lower leaves - now you have to deal with what is already there.
Remember that the disease itself will not disappear. If you do not take emergency measures for treatment, then first the rose will drop the lower leaves that already have dark spots, then all the remaining foliage will turn yellow and crumble. The disease gradually covers the entire plant, after one or two seasons the rose will die.
Black spot is a fungal disease of Marssonina rosae that is spread by dewdrops or rain. Having found dark marks on the leaves of one ornamental crop and without taking any methods to combat the disease, you should not be surprised when, after a while, you will see similar symptoms on other plants in your rose garden.
Prevention and treatment
Have you noticed black spotting of roses in your garden, but do not know how to deal with it? It will be difficult to cure the plant if the disease is running. But do not despair and give up - you can still fix it if you properly treat the affected areas and take preventive measures in relation to other rose bushes.
Unfortunately, most of novice gardeners make an irreparable mistake in caring for their rosary: noticing that the leaves with black spots fall off on their own, they let the situation take its course, hoping that the ailment will pass without their intervention during the winter. The spores of the fungus overwinter in the soil and become active with the onset of spring.
What should be done when the first signs of black spot are found? Inspect the plant carefully, cut off all leaves affected by the fungus and burn them in a remote area of \u200b\u200bthe garden or even outside its territory. The next step - roses are treated with fungicides, which contain mancozeb and zinc. This procedure should be repeated every 2 weeks. To avoid addiction of the fungus to the drug, alternate between different chemicals. The most common and potent include: "Oxyhom", "Profit", "Fundazol", "Topaz", "Skor", "Strobi", "Ridomil Gold", copper oxychloride and others.
If there is no desire to use chemicals, then you can try to use biologically active drugs, among which Fitosporin-M is considered the most effective.
In the fight against black spot, all means are good, so we suggest that you put into practice some folk methods:
- infusion of horsetail, dandelion and nettle;
- a decoction of onion and garlic peels;
- sprinkling of the affected areas with crushed ash;
- cow dung, previously diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10;
- decoction or infusion of citrus peel.
For greater effectiveness in the struggle for a plant, you can combine folk methods with professional means.
Black spotting is a rather serious disease found in roses, which is quite difficult to get rid of. It should be noted that this disease is quite common.
Among different varieties There is no rose variety that is completely protected. In some cases, we can talk about less susceptibility to the disease, and nothing more. The plant can be made less susceptible. To do this, a newly planted absolutely healthy bush must be constantly examined and drugs used to stimulate its growth.
To protect your rose garden from black spot, you need to resort to periodic prevention, which, in turn, is divided into activities such as:
- selection of the strongest and most healthy seedlings;
- before planting seedlings, they should be carefully treated with a bactericidal and fungicidal agent - Fitosporin-M. The most effective will be the use of this drug in the form of a paste;
- it would be useful to enrich the soil with bacteria. To do this, you can add compost to the soil, mulch the soil, and also use some preparations, such as Gamair or Fitosporin-M;
- The addition of potassium-based fertilizers will be extremely beneficial for healthy plant growth. To help avoid infection of roses with black spot, liming of too acidic soil and the use of ash will help;
- the distance at which the bushes are planted also plays an important role;
- timely pruning can also protect the plant from disease. Pruning allows not only to give the plant the required shape, but also makes it possible to timely remove diseased or simply dry branches;
- rose bushes must be sprayed annually with iron and copper sulfate. The best option would be the alternation of drugs. The bush is sprayed immediately after it opens. It is very important to catch the moment while its buds have not yet blossomed;
- after the foliage blooms, additional spraying of the bushes is carried out. Biological preparations can be used for it, in such a case, spraying will need to be repeated after 1 to 2 weeks. When using chemical preparations, spraying is performed only 1 time. It is very important to remember that spraying can only be done at temperatures above 10 degrees. Biological products include fermented grass, Gumistar, onion peel infusion, Fitosporin-M, ash infusion and Baikal-EM. Chemical agents include Topaz or Strobi;
- in the first months of summer, fertilizing with mullein, ammonium nitrate or Bucephalus will be useful for rose bushes;
- in May and June, you can also feed roses with potash fertilizers;
- from July to August, plants must be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers;
- throughout the summer period, regular spraying of plants is necessary. A spray can be Zircon, dandelion or nettle infusion, as well as Vermicoff. Spraying with immune preparations and stimulants will make the bush stronger and more beautiful;
- neighborhood is also extremely important for the health of the plant. The most suitable neighbors for roses are lavender, sage, catnip and tagetes;
- if it is not possible to get rid of the disease for more than a year, one should think about abandoning the multicultural rosary. In the presence of a large number plants related to various types, there is a gradual weakening;
- you need to make it a rule to constantly collect and burn fallen leaves. A similar procedure should be carried out not only in the fall, but also in the summer;
- there should be no weeds in the flower garden, as they have a depressing effect on roses;
- for those who prefer chemical treatments, iron sulfate will be useful. All bushes should be treated with a solution of this agent before they are sheltered for wintering;
- when using biological agents, Fitosporin-M will be necessary, which should be treated with the bushes themselves. In this case, the soil should be shed with the same preparation, but only in liquid form. The biological product can be used at a temperature of at least 15 degrees, lower temperatures will be detrimental to the bush;
- immediately before the shelter, you should once again collect all the foliage.
To get healthy and beautiful flower garden, it is necessary to remember the timeliness of the measures taken. In addition, it will not be superfluous to hold such events in the entire garden as a whole.
What to do if the rose is sick?
If the plant is still sick, you can, of course, hope that it will recover on its own, or you can take up its active treatment.
Treatment
The first step to take immediately is to remove all infected leaves. All leaves that have already crumbled on their own should be carefully collected and burned without fail.
For those who believe in the achievements of chemistry, you will need a copper-containing reagent, the solution of which should be sprayed on the bush. In addition, the bush will need to be treated with contact fungicides. This treatment must be carried out at least 3 times. Copper-containing preparations include OxyXOM and Bordeaux mixture. You can also use copper sulfate. The most effective contact fungicides include Previkur and Fundazol.
If you wish to use exclusively biological products, Fitosporin should be used when the primary signs of the disease appear. It is best to use this drug together with Siliplant or Zircon. Processing should be carried out at least 3 - 4 times. The interval between treatments should be about 5 days.
In the intervals between spraying the bushes, the soil between them should be shed with Fitosporin-M solution.
Before you cover the plant for wintering, you should carefully collect all the foliage. Affected foliage must be burned.
Before shelter, treat the bush with a solution of iron sulfate.
In the spring, the bush must be cut very short and preventive measures should be taken.
Rose, as a true queen of the garden, requires special attention. If the rules of cultivation are not observed, adverse weather conditions develop on roses various diseases that cause fungi, bacteria, viruses. Treating rose diseases is always more difficult than preventing their development. Therefore, always try to take preventive measures to prevent diseases.
Disease prevention
To protect these beautiful flowers From diseases it is important to carry out a number of preventive measures:
- Pruning and destruction of weak and diseased shoots, dried leaves and other plant residues on which pathogenic fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- To prevent diseases, rose bushes are sprayed with chemical and biological preparations wide spectrum of action: Alirin-B, Skor, Topaz, etc.
- Periodic inspections of rose bushes are necessary so as not to miss the onset of the disease and its spread to neighboring plants. A neglected disease is difficult to treat and can lead to the death of the rose.
- Do not overfeed plants with nitrogen fertilizers, and in the second half of summer, completely exclude nitrogen from top dressing.
- Periodic top dressing with potash and phosphorus fertilizers increases the plant's resistance to disease.
Rose diseases are divided into fungal, bacterial and viral. This article provides descriptions, photos and methods of treating the following diseases:
powdery mildew
The spread of this disease is facilitated by dense plantings, prolonged summer rains, a big difference day and night temperatures, excessive nitrogen application with top dressing. First of all, powdery mildew affects young green shoots and leaves.
Powdery mildew on roses
Description of the disease
The spores of the fungus that have fallen on the plant germinate and form whitish mealy spots on the leaves and shoots, which gradually grow. The rose bush is covered with an ash-gray powder coating. The leaves dry up, the shoots are deformed and stop developing.
Methods of treatment
- If signs of the disease are found, the leaves and shoots with a coating are urgently cut off and destroyed.
- Spray the bushes with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. The working solution is prepared immediately before use. 100 g of sulfur is taken per bucket of water. The foliage is sprayed from the upper and lower sides in dry, calm weather.
- With a strong lesion, drugs are effective: Skor, Topaz, Fundazol, Vitaros. Fungicides need to be alternated, because. the fungus develops drug resistance.
Folk remedies
Alternative methods of treatment work at the initial stage of the disease of rose bushes and as a prevention.
- 4 g soda ash stir in 1 liter hot water, add 4 g of soap chips. The resulting solution is sprayed on the diseased plant twice with a weekly interval.
- A third of a bucket of fresh mullein is poured with water and left for three days. The mixture is periodically stirred. The resulting infusion is diluted with water 1:10 and sprayed with rose bushes in the evening.
- Mix 1 kg of ash with 10 liters of water, leave for two days. Add 40 g of soap chips and spray the affected bushes twice with a week break.
Prevention measures
- Timely removal and destruction of fallen leaves, weeds, on which fungus spores can persist.
- From mid-summer, feed only with potash and phosphorus fertilizers. Excess nitrogen fertilizer reduces the resistance of roses to powdery mildew.
- In the spring, after removing the shelter and late autumn spray rose bushes with a 3% solution of copper sulfate, 0.4% copper chloride or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
- Plant powdery mildew-resistant varieties of roses.
- Avoid crowded bush planting.
rose rust
The disease is caused by a rust fungus, the spores of which are carried by wind or insects. Rust development is favored by wet and warm weather. The disease spreads easily and is difficult to treat.
It looks like a plant affected by rust.
Description of the disease
In the initial stage of the disease, bright red spots appear on the leaves of the rose. If you look at the underside of the leaf, then in these places you can see such orange tubercles of sporulation. This is the spring stage of rust fungus development.
With further development of the disease, the pustules acquire a brown-rusty color. Yellow-red spots spread throughout the leaf blade, the leaves dry up and fall off. Shoots crack, bend and dry out. In the autumn stage of development, the pustules become dark. In this form, the fungus overwinters on the infected parts of the plant.
Treatment Methods
- Cut off and burn all leaves and shoots with orange spots.
- Spraying the rose and the soil around the bush with a solution of fungicides: Titan, Strobi, Falcon, Bayleton. Processing is carried out repeatedly with a two-week break, changing preparations.
- Spraying roses with copper-containing preparations: hom, Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate.
Folk remedies for rust treatment
For 10 l warm water 1.5 kg of chopped milkweed stalks are taken. The mixture is infused for a day in a warm place. The resulting infusion is filtered and used to spray the leaves.
Disease prevention
- Pruning and destruction of diseased plant parts and weeds.
- Spraying in late autumn and early spring of bushes and soil around 3% solution of copper sulphate, 3% solution of iron sulphate.
- Autumn digging of the earth near the bushes.
Downy mildew or rose downy mildew
Peronosporosis is a fungal disease of roses that spreads in conditions high humidity. Cool rainy weather, sudden changes in temperature at night and during the day with heavy dews contribute to the development of the disease. The fungus reproduces by zoospores, which move quickly in the water. For infection, a wet film on the leaves is enough for the zoospores to infiltrate the stomata of the leaf and begin their destructive work.
Rainy weather favors the development of the disease.
Description of the disease
Downy mildew on roses appears as a light grayish or purple bloom on the underside of the leaves. The spores of the fungus germinate through the tissue of the leaf, and red and purple-brown spots appear on the surface of the leaf plate. The leaves turn yellow and fall off literally within two to three days. First of all, the disease affects the upper young leaves.
At further dissemination spots may appear on the shoots, the buds are deformed, the outer petals darken and fall off. In a hot dry summer, the disease stops, but closer to autumn it begins with renewed vigor.
Treatment Methods
- Destruction of infected leaves and shoots.
- Solutions of drugs are used for treatment: Ridomil Gold, Thanos, Alirin-B, Gamair, Profit. Spraying roses and the soil around the bush should be done every 10-14 days.
Folk ways to treat the disease
- 1 liter of skimmed milk is mixed with 9 liters of water and 10 drops of 5% alcohol solution of iodine are added. The resulting mixture is sprayed with bushes.
- Pour 1 cup of ash into 2 liters of boiled water, add water to 10 liters. Filter the solution and spray the roses.
Preventive measures
- Pruning and destruction of affected leaves, shoots and plant debris.
- In late autumn and early spring, spraying with solutions of preparations containing copper.
- Top dressing with potash and phosphorus fertilizers improves plant resistance to disease.
Black Spot or Marsonina Rose
Black spot is a common fungal disease of roses that develops in damp, warm weather, in thickened plantings, with an excess of nitrogen fertilizers.
This disease begins to spread from the bottom up.
Description of the disease
Black spot begins to spread from the lower leaves to the top of the bush. Green shoots may also be affected. Dark brown and black spots with uneven blurred edges appear on the foliage. Leaves turn yellow and fall off. Without treatment, the rose bush may lose all foliage and remain bare. Shoots will not have time to mature and prepare for winter. With a high probability, such a bush will die in winter.
How to treat the disease
- It is necessary to remove and destroy all damaged leaves and weak thin shoots.
- Spray with fungicides three to six times with a week break, alternating preparations. Good results are given by Skor, Topaz, Profit Gold, Fundazol.
Folk methods of treatment
Folk methods are best used for the prevention of black spot.
- Spraying with infusion of mullein. 1 part of mullein is mixed with 10 parts of water and infused for several days.
- 200 g of onion peel pour 10 liters of water and heat to a boil. Insist 8 hours. Strain the infusion and spray the rose bushes and the ground around.
Prevention
- Before sheltering roses for the winter, remove all foliage and weak shoots, clear the ground around from plant sediments.
- In early spring and late autumn, spray roses and the surrounding soil with 3% iron or copper sulphate.
- Do not overfeed with nitrogen, and exclude nitrogen from top dressing from mid-summer.
- Top dressing with potash and phosphorus fertilizers increases the resistance of plants to fungal diseases, incl. to black spot.
- Spraying with Fitosporin serves as a good protection against many fungal diseases.
Among the fungal diseases of roses, there are leaf spots, which appear in much the same way as black spot: leaf septoria, leaf phyllosticosis, purple rose spot, grayish spot (cercosporosis). Determining which type of spotting struck a rose can be difficult. But all these diseases of roses are treated in the same way as black spot.
Infectious burn of roses
Infectious burn develops in conditions of poor ventilation and high humidity. Such conditions are created under shelter during thaws in winter.
In the photo, an infectious burn of roses
Description of the disease
In early spring, black spots appear on the shoots with a characteristic red-burgundy border. With the further development of the disease, the spots increase and ring the stem, the bark cracks and flakes off. Sick shoots inevitably die.
How is an infectious burn on roses treated?
If signs of the disease are found, all damaged parts should be cut out to healthy tissue. Cover the cut points with garden pitch. Severely affected shoots must be cut out completely. Spray the bush with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.
Preventive measures to prevent the disease
- Before shelter, all leaves and weak shoots, plant debris from the ground near the bush must be removed from the bush.
- You need to cover roses for the winter in dry, cold weather.
- Before shelter, treat the bush and soil around with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
- In the spring, open the roses as soon as weather conditions allow and spray with a 0.4% solution of copper oxychloride (HOM) or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
Bacterial diseases of roses
Bacterial root canker is caused by bacteria that live in the soil. Bacteria enter the roots and shoots through cracks and wounds caused by planting or pruning with tools or obtained from pests.
In the photo, bacterial root cancer
Description of the disease
The bacteria attack the root tissue cells, which begin to divide uncontrollably. Light soft growths and sagging appear on the roots and root neck. They grow, become dark and hard. In the future, the growths rot. Plants affected by cancer develop poorly, wither and subsequently die.
Treatment of the disease
With early detection of cancer, you can try to cure the plant. The bush needs to be dug up and cut off the roots and shoots with growths. Immerse the root in a 1% solution of copper sulfate for 5 minutes, then rinse with water and dip in a clay mash. Severely affected bushes are best burned.
Preventive measures
Before planting roses, disinfect the roots in a 1% solution of copper sulfate, rinse in water, and dip in a clay mash.
- Pour the planted bushes under the root with a solution of Fitolavin or Fitoplasmin. Preventive watering can be done several times.
- Organic fertilizers enrich the soil with antagonistic bacteria that inhibit the development of bacterial cancer.
Bacterial stem cancer
The bacteria are spread by insects, wind, rain and infect young shoots of roses.
Bacterial cancer on a rose trunk.
Description of the disease
Dark brown spots form on young shoots. In the future, deep ulcers form at the site of the spots, nutrition and growth of the shoot are disturbed. Black spots appear on the foliage. The affected stems dry out, the leaves turn black and crumble.
Treatment of the disease
- Trim diseased areas to healthy tissue. Disinfect the cut sites with a 5% solution of copper sulphate, cover oil paint. Severely affected and dried shoots cut and destroy.
- If the disease has spread strongly throughout the bush, then it is better to dig up such a rose and burn it.
Stem Cancer Prevention
- Treatment of rose bushes with a 3% solution of copper sulphate before shelter for the winter and in the spring after removing the shelter. A 1% Bordeaux mixture is also suitable for spraying.
Viral diseases of roses
Viral infections appear on the foliage as a variety of alternating light and dark green spots. various shapes. It can be a mosaic pattern or an annular spot. Leaves and buds are deformed, the rose lags behind in growth, blooms poorly.
There are several types of viral diseases of roses with similar symptoms. Only a specialist can determine which virus has infected a plant.
Viral wilt
With viral wilt, the bush stops developing, the leaves become narrow, filiform and dry out. Gradually, the bush dies.
What does a diseased bush look like
The mosaic virus has infected the rose bush.
Small yellowish or light green spots appear on the leaves, which spread throughout the leaf blade, forming a mosaic pattern. Depending on the type of virus, spots can be of various shapes and spread to young shoots and buds. There is a deformation of the leaves and petals. Bushes lag behind in growth, bloom poorly.
To date, does not exist effective drugs for the treatment of viral diseases. You can stop the development of the disease by cutting off diseased leaves and sections of stems. Rose bushes heavily affected by the virus must be removed from the garden so that the disease does not spread to other plants.
Prevention of viral diseases
- Timely detection and destruction of infected bushes.
- Control of aphids, nematodes, thrips and other sucking insects that carry diseases.
- Disinfection garden tools after working with diseased plants. For processing, you can use alcohol, 1% solution of potassium permanganate.
Continuation of the topic:
