It is unlikely that anyone would agree to deny themselves the pleasure of taking a shower outdoors allowing you to refresh yourself at the end of a hard day's work. In this article we will tell you how to make a summer shower with your own hands from various materials(made of polycarbonate, metal profiles, brick, wood), we will show the exact dimensions, and also provide photo and video instructions.
A similar approach to manufacturing shower structure will allow you to save on expensive materials, and what is equally important - to produce a structure that best suits your individual preferences.
Selecting a location and options
The place for the shower is usually chosen on open place, located at some elevation above the general level of the suburban area. Since energy is used to heat water in structures of this type sun rays– the place for them should not be located in the shade of trees and other high-rise objects.
It is known that on our summer cottages summer shower cabins of the most varied architecture are traditionally built (including quite original designs). Moreover, all of them can be reduced to the following execution options:
- lightweight buildings without strong side walls;
- lightweight structures equipped with improvised side walls;
- capital shower houses with walls made of polycarbonate or similar material.
Let's look at each of the above options in more detail.
Shower stall dimensions
The inside of the shower stall should be comfortable enough to easily bend, turn around and stand freely. Therefore, you can start from these sizes:
- Height 2–3 m.
- Length 1.9 m.
- Width 1.4 m.
These sizes are quite convenient. Taking into account the thickness of the walls, the room will be slightly smaller. In this case, the shower stall itself will have an average size of 1 × 1, as well as a dressing room of 0.6 × 0.4 m.
From scrap materials
The simplest shower design made from scrap materials contains a tank with a built-in faucet, a standard shower head and a regular watering hose. Such a simple structure is installed near the house, and the tank is mounted on the wall or roof of the building at a height slightly higher than human height.
The location of the tank should be chosen in such a way that the sun's rays linger on it as long as possible during the day.
After fixing the collection container, a valve tap is built into it, onto which a hose of suitable length is put on with a shower head installed at its end.
The convenience of this option for a summer shower is that in this case you can do without installing a separate shower stall. The main thing you should pay attention to is to properly protect the wall and roof of the house from the destructive effects of moisture accumulating near the tank. For this purpose, the area of the building in the area where the latter is located should be insulated using special water-repellent impregnations or simply covered with several layers of ordinary oilcloth.
Note that this option execution there are natural disadvantages, which are as follows:
- In this case, the shower area is completely unprotected from the wind;
- a significant part of the daytime it will be in the shade of the house;
- there is a threat of gradual destruction of the walls of the house from moisture accumulating in this place.
Taking into account all the listed disadvantages, the use of such structures is, as a rule, limited.
The process of building a summer shower made of wood consists of several successive steps. First of all, you need to prepare the place. It should be well ventilated, since under the influence of constant exposure to moisture the structure can quickly become unusable. Next, you need to dig a hole 1x1 m and a depth of 0.4 m. Fill it with crushed stone. This must be done so that the soapy water does not spread over the summer cottage, but has time to be absorbed into the soil.
If you have organized the drainage of sewage waste into a drainage pit, then skip this stage of preparation.
- Covering the frame with clapboard.
- Painting.
- Tank installation.
Frame construction
Take boards with a cross section of 30 mm × 15 cm and make a 1x1 base. Attach 4 side beams to it, the cross-section of which is 100x70 mm. They will serve as the basis for installing the tank. They must be installed in the grooves.
Frame covering
To cover the frame, you can use false timber, blockhouse or lining. When installing them, leave a gap of up to 3 mm between each strip. This also applies to the first one at the base. In this case, under the influence of moisture, the product will be able to expand freely. If this is not taken into account, then the summer shower will turn into an “accordion”.
Painting
Once the sheathing is complete, you can begin painting. To do this, the entire surface should be coated with antifungal impregnation. The next layer will be façade acrylic water-borne varnish. It is applied in 3 layers.
You should not skimp on varnish, so it is better to apply it in sufficient quantities. It is important to ensure that water slides easily over the surface of the walls and does not linger in the shower. This painting is carried out both outside and inside.
Tank installation
To store water, you can install a 100 liter tank. The tank can be made from different materials, stainless steel, plastic, etc. You can buy a ready-made tank just for this purpose. Some home owners often find one or another container to install on an outdoor shower.
Finally, all that remains is to hang the curtain on the hooks. On average, such a shower can be built in 1–2 days.
Photo instructions for making a summer shower made of wood
Another option for building a shower is to use polycarbonate. To build it you will need to purchase the following building material:
- Polycarbonate. The sheet size is 2.1×1.2 m. For arranging a shower, a thickness of 8–15 mm will be sufficient. As for the choice of color, choose one that is less transparent milky or bronze.
- For fastening you will need special hardware, ribbons and corners.
- Material for the frame, for example, wood, metal corner or pipe, brick, aluminum profile and so on.
- Shower tank.
- Shower sprayer.
- If necessary, a plastic pipe for drainage.
We have already discussed the general principle of constructing a frame for a summer shower made of wood above. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to some specific features when working with polycarbonate.
Any material, whether stone, wood or metal, can withstand the weight of polycarbonate. But there is one caveat. This material is distinguished by its windage, so the frame should be equipped with a sufficient number of cross-shaped, vertical and horizontal jumpers.
The thickness of the frame material for polycarbonate may be less than for wood.
Tank installation
The tank is installed on installed frame. Due to this, the water in it is heated by the sun's rays. Usually a flat tank is installed, but there are no strict rules.
It is better to install a polycarbonate shower tank under the roof. Thus, there will be a greenhouse effect and the water will heat up much faster and cool down accordingly.
Installation of polycarbonate
If you want to make a locker room, you will need two sheets of polycarbonate. Use an opaque one for the walls and a transparent one for the roof, so the water will heat up faster. First of all, make blanks by cutting the sheets to the required sizes.
Polycarbonate sheet can be cut with a regular knife both along the voids and across.
Be sure to treat the cut area sandpaper. Check to see if any sawdust has gotten inside the honeycomb. If yes, then they can be removed with a vacuum cleaner. To avoid chipping when drilling holes, step back 3-4 cm from the edge. Drill between the stiffeners. Be sure to cover the edges of the sheet with perforated tape. This is done to prevent debris, dust, water, etc. from getting inside the honeycombs. As for the end part, use an end profile, H-shaped or corner.
To prevent condensation from forming inside the honeycomb, drill in several places thin holes. 3 holes per 1 m of profile are enough.
Photo
Video
In this video you will see how to make a wooden shower:
This video will tell you about the possibility of quickly building a shower:
Scheme
Photo instructions for a summer shower on a plank base
Preface
Required Tools and materials
ChainsawConcrete mixer
Bitumen masticBulgariantimberBoersLiningRollerBucketWaterNailsnail pullerPrimerPlaned boardDrillSewer pipesPencilExpanded clayBrickBrushCuvetteShovelMaster OKMetal cornerHammerknifePipe shearsHacksawSoldering iron for pipesHammerSandPolypropylene pipesProfiled sheetadjustable wrenchRuberoidRouletteSelf-tapping screwsLadderSquareLevelInsulationFittingCementSlategrinderScrewdriverElectric planer
Contents
Not many people know about how to make a shower in the country and enjoy the “benefits of civilization” away from the city. Before making a summer shower, we suggest you carefully read the materials on this page. Here are given detailed descriptions, video and photos of the construction process of such an object. After familiarization, even a novice master can assemble a summer shower with his own hands. Moreover, in order to make a shower at your dacha with your own hands, you do not need to supply hot water and install sewer drain holes.
The construction of any outbuilding, as a rule, consists of four main stages. These include site selection, foundation preparation, wall assembly and roof installation. In the case of a shower final stage is replaced by the organization of water supply.
Summer shower in the country: photos and videos
A place for a summer shower is usually chosen on the far side of a summer cottage, hidden from prying eyes; they also consider the method of heating and supplying water, the location and design of the tank.
If the water in the tank is planned to be heated from the sun, then the shower is installed in a place as open to sunlight as possible and away from those natural and artificial obstacles, the shadow of which may fall on the tank.
We invite you to look at the shower at the dacha in the photo:
Setting up a summer shower at the dacha
The installation of a summer shower in the country requires the presence of a source hot water or installing heating elements in close proximity. If you plan to use electricity to heat the water in the tank or the water will enter the tank already warm, then the shower can be placed in any convenient location from the back side of the summer cottage, including in the form of an extension to the main or utility buildings.
Preparing the base of a summer shower includes two types of work:
- equipment for the outflow and disposal of used water;
- production of flooring.
For summer cottages with their own or centralized sewerage system, water drainage is not difficult to organize. It is enough to equip the floor with a drainage system and connect it with a pipe to the collection point for sewer liquids. The floor can be poured cement-sand screed with a recess or install a metal tray.
In summer cottages where there is no sewerage system, drain into a toilet pit or equip a receiver for collecting and recycling water under a summer shower. For this purpose on the spot future construction They dig a hole 1.4 x 1.4 m with a depth of 1.2 m. The walls are filled with concrete 20 cm thick so that the internal space is 1 x 1 m in size. Then the hole is filled with equal layers of sand, gravel and large stone. In summer, these layers will hold almost everything harmful substances, which in the autumn-winter-spring period are neutralized by precipitation.
If the summer shower is intended for rinsing, and the main bathing process takes place in the bathhouse, the water drainage system is organized according to a simplified scheme. The area under the shower is planned so that the slopes on three sides converge to a point located in the middle of the fourth side. From this point, a ditch is dug to the point where water is discharged into the sewer, into beds or other remote places on the site. Then the area is covered with a suitable piece of linoleum. If desired, the ditch is reinforced with a metal tray or half polyethylene pipe, cut lengthwise.
How to build a summer shower with your own hands
Before building a summer shower, the arrangement of the base is completed by making a wooden flooring, the purpose of which is to prevent slipping while using the summer shower. For this purpose, 100x40 mm bars, knocked together with a picket fence, are suitable. The final dimensions of the flooring must correspond to the floor area. It is recommended to make the gap width between the bars no more than 30 mm, so that the feet, especially children’s, do not fall through. Such gaps allow the wood to dry quickly and not rot.
The general type of structure design depends on the method of water supply. If the tank is installed directly above the shower stall, then you will need a fairly strong and rigid frame that can withstand the weight of the tank filled with liquid (for a 100-liter capacity this is about 200 kg). In addition, the walls of the shower stall should hide the person from prying eyes and protect him from possible gusts of wind.
They are made from the following materials:
- bricks, blocks or half-blocks with a masonry width of half a brick;
- concrete;
- wooden shields made from boards 35-50 mm thick, etc.
According to operating conditions and from the point of view of sanitary and hygienic standards, the walls of the shower stall should be 30-40 cm from the ceiling of the cabin and the shower tray. Unlike blind boxes, such a building will not become damp, will have excellent ventilation and will be well heated by the sun.
You can build a summer shower with your own hands using frame technology construction of wall structures. For a wooden frame of a shower stall, racks made of timber with sides of 10 cm and a length of 3 m are suitable, and for the top cast-off and veins - boards at least 10 cm wide, about 4 cm thick and a length equal to the side of the stall. To ensure long-term operation of the shower, it is advisable to cover all parts exposed to moisture, rotting and atmospheric factors with antiseptic, moisture-resistant and sun-protective compounds, paints or varnishes.
For an iron frame, you will need racks made of pipes with a diameter of at least 50 mm, as well as elements of cast-offs and veins from a 45 mm corner of the same length. In this case, metal is the most convenient, practical and reliable material for construction. The walls are covered with any building material, resistant to sunlight and weather conditions: boards, slats, iron sheets, tin, corrugated sheets, etc.
The assembly of the cabin begins with concreting the racks to a depth of about 60 cm. Then the upper cast-off elements and veins are secured under the wall cladding, stepping back from the lower and upper ends of the racks by 30-40 cm. Next, the walls are sheathed, doors are hung and all surfaces are painted with waterproof paints and varnishes .
A shower stall, supplied with water from a distant source, is constructed in a similar way, but from lighter and perhaps less durable materials. It is important that the structure is resistant to gusts of wind and can withstand its own weight. To cover the walls, use opaque fabric, such as thick flannel or tarpaulin.
Building a shower in the country
Let's look at one of these structures in more detail. It has good performance characteristics, and in addition, it allows you to install a summer shower in any convenient place and dismantle it for the winter. So, below is an example of how we build a shower in the country using frame sheathing technology.
For a booth with base sides 1.4 x 1.4 m, you will need 12 rods, 8 tees and 6.2 m of fabric. Pipes or fittings with a diameter of 16-24 mm are used as rods: four 2.2 m long and eight 1.4 m long. Tees are welded from pieces of pipes located perpendicular to each other. Each piece of pipe is about 10 cm long and has a diameter two sizes larger than the rods. At a distance of 3-4 cm from the ends of the finished tee, holes with a diameter of 8-12 mm are drilled and threads are cut for attaching the rods. Next, the walls and curtain are cut out of the fabric. Considering that the standard fabric width is 1.4-1.6 m, the fabric is processed only from the cut sides; it is not necessary to pad the factory edges. First, cut a piece 1.9 m long and tuck its edges. Rings are sewn on one side of the cut fabric, and sinkers (guy wires) in the form of bolts, pieces of lead and other objects are attached to the other. The pitch of the rings and sinkers should not exceed 7-10 cm. The cut edges of the remaining fabric are hemmed so that the rod fits freely inside the hem. To stretch the fabric well over the walls during the first assembly, wrap the fabric around the stand, align its back sides and mark a temporary seam by stitching it with a thread and a needle. Then machine stitch the seam.
When all the parts of the shower stall are ready, proceed directly to assembly. First, assemble the base using short rods and tees. They are firmly fixed to each other using bolts through threaded holes. Stands are installed into the free ends of the tees and also secured with bolts. The two posts that form the entrance to the booth are threaded through the edges of the fabric and the fabric is pulled through three sides of the future booth. Then the frame of the upper cast-off is assembled, while rings for the curtain are strung on the rod located above the entrance. Finally, install a jumper or crossbar from any available material, onto which a shower head, valve and hose coming from the water source are attached. To give the structure stability, hook brackets are driven into the corners of the base of the frame.
Water can be supplied either from a remote source or from a container installed directly on the frame of the shower stall. In the first case, you will need an ordinary tap with a heater, an outlet from the heating plant pipe, or a tank installed in the attic of the main building. Organizing the water supply is quite simple: just connect the water source and the shower receiver using a hose. On the frame of the shower stall you can place not only a metal tank, but also any plastic container that can hold liquid.
Pipes for supplying water are installed as follows. Threads are applied to the ends of two pieces of pipe 25-30 cm long. A special clamping nut is screwed onto one end of such cutting with the flat side facing the insertion point and a rubber gasket is put on top. Next, a hole is drilled in the upper part of one of the walls of the container along the diameter of the pipe. One pipe is inserted into it with the part where the nut is screwed onto the thread. WITH reverse side, that is, from inside the container, put a rubber gasket on the thread and screw on the second clamping nut. In a similar way, the second pipe is fixed in a hole made at the bottom of the container.
This type of tapping solves three problems at once: it simplifies the connection of the pipe to the container, facilitates repair of the tapping site, and helps to retain impurities at the bottom of the container. However, it is not suitable for grooved, corrugated, rounded and other uneven surfaces, since it does not provide a tight connection.
The water tank is installed on the frame and equipped with a lid to protect it from leaves, dust and other debris. The upper pipe is connected to the water source, and a valve and shower head are screwed onto the lower pipe.
When the air temperature is below +18 °C, the water is not able to warm up well during the day. To take a shower regardless of weather conditions, you should install some additional devices that speed up the heating of water using solar or electrical energy. It could be a heating element or flow heater, mounted directly in front of the shower head. Live parts should be well insulated from metal parts, water and humidity.
Country summer shower
A country summer shower can work perfectly from alternative sources energy, for example, heating water under the influence of sunlight. Convert solar energy There are several ways to get warm. The simplest of them is to install a frame with glass instead of a tank lid or stretch a regular greenhouse film over the tank. The container itself should be painted black inside and out.
In summer, the difference between the temperatures of the upper and lower layers of water sometimes reaches 10-15 °C. Taking this into account, a float method of water supply is used. One end of the rubber hose is connected to a pipe at the bottom of the tank, and the other is equipped with a floating nozzle for collecting water. The water intake is made from an ordinary piece of polystyrene foam, making holes on the sides and bottom.
There are more complex designs, based on the operating principle of radiator grilles. For example, if one end of a copper or aluminum coil, painted black, is cut into the bottom of the container, and the other into the middle part, then accelerated heating of the water can be achieved. The water heated in the cavity of the coil will be pushed out by the cold layers of liquid at the bottom of the container and returned to the container again.
Outdoor shower for a summer residence
Now your outdoor shower for your dacha is almost ready, only a few finishing touches remain. The final arrangement of the summer shower comes down to hanging coat hooks and installing shelves for detergents. In a shower stall with walls made of solid material it's easy to do.
To construct such devices on fabric walls, use empty plastic bottles: Cut them diagonally and sew them to the wall. As a result, you will get convenient containers for detergents: the lower part of the bottles is for shampoos or gels, the upper part, which allows water to drain, is for soap or washcloths. Clothes, linen and a towel can be secured to the edge of the sheet using a regular clothespin, protected from water by an additional polyethylene curtain.
Look at the summer shower in the country in the photo:
If desired, build a dressing room for changing clothes and protecting clothes from splashes.
Another way to improve your shower is to automatically store water in the container using a valve with a float lever mechanism. Typically, such a valve is found in toilet tanks - it blocks the flow of water into the container. In this case, on the contrary, the valve opens the water supply when its level in the tank approaches zero.
When the tank is full, the float is at the top point; as the water level decreases, it moves down the rod. When the float rests against the lower stopper, the valve lever begins to lower under the influence of its gravity. Eventually the faucet turns on and water flows. As the container fills, the float rises until it rests against the upper stopper. Under the action of the buoyant force of water, the float moves the lever to its original position, after which the water supply stops. It is better to use fishing line as threads for the float, since cables, strings and twines can become unusable in water. You can also automate turning on the shower. This will save water and simplify the washing process.
How to make a summer shower is shown in the video:
The majority of Russian summer residents, while in nature, engage not only (and not so much) in relaxation, but useful work. In general, it is human nature to use one’s plot of land to its maximum benefit. Therefore, even on small plots there are a couple of beds in which someone is sure to work. And if there are no beds, then there are lawns that also require care.
As a result, in the late afternoon, tired people want to take a shower, have dinner and rest peacefully. Therefore, usually after, which is erected first, most people try to create conditions for hygienic procedures. At the same time, not everyone wants to build a capital washing station with heated water. But a summer shower can be seen in almost every area.
Although this is a lightweight structure, the location for it must be chosen based on considerations of practicality.
You shouldn’t put the shower “wherever you have to”:
- It is advisable to choose a site located on a hill so that shower drains can be removed freely and a swamp does not form under the shower.
- Since the shower is summer, it is assumed that only solar energy will be used to heat the water. Therefore, it is necessary that the water tank located on the roof of the building be exposed to the sun as long as possible during the day. For this reason, you should not place the shower under trees or in the shade of other buildings.
Thus, the shower needs to be built on a flat or elevated open area and preferably at some distance from the house, so that there is room to organize water drainage.
You can avoid dealing with water drainage issues only if you decide not to “fool your head” with the construction of even the simplest building, but use a portable shower in the form of a large plastic bag with a watering can (usually its volume does not exceed 20 - 25 liters). Such an impromptu shower can be hung on any branch and used without the risk of creating a swamp after washing the whole family. The soil will accept a small amount of water a couple of times a week without problems.
In all other cases, it is necessary to be puzzled by the removal of wastewater. Moreover, soapy water is not so harmless to the surrounding soil.
Everyone decides this question for themselves, based on their own preferences, material capabilities, as well as available materials already available at the dacha (often left over).
If you purchase a plastic shower block, then this issue becomes irrelevant. The block is a single unit; all you have to do is prepare the site for its installation.
If you still decide to build with your own hands, then most likely you will plan construction frame structure. Therefore, the first thing you need to decide is what material to choose for constructing the frame.
- The most common material for a shower enclosure frame is wood. Firstly, in the country there is almost always a small supply of bars and boards left after the construction of a house or kitchen. Secondly, the construction of a wooden frame is within the power of even an inexperienced person in construction. The only condition: it must be taken into account that the shower cabin is constantly exposed to water, so everything wooden structures must be treated with impregnations that prevent deep wetting of wood, which will inevitably lead to its rapid destruction. It is also important to process that part wooden racks, which will be buried in the ground. For this you can use bituminous mastic, waste oil or special impregnations.
- Lightweight is the second most popular frame material. metallic profile or profile steel pipes. Threaded connections are used to assemble the steel frame.
- Recently, plastic pipes (polypropylene or PVC) are often used for shower cabin frames, which are simply placed on pieces of reinforcement driven into the ground. The plastic frame is inexpensive and most resistant to moisture. True, buildings on such a basis are not distinguished by their rigidity and strength. In addition, most construction materials cannot be used to cover such a shower. wall materials. Usually, dense opaque material serves as a wall fence here. plastic film or tarpaulin. And you can’t put a large water tank on such a frame. But the shower turns out to be collapsible and in the fall it can be easily turned into “spare parts” and removed until spring.
The material for wall cladding is determined by the selected type of frame. If it is wood or metal, then you can cover the shower with almost anything, from wood to corrugated sheets, polycarbonate, plastic and other modern materials.
There are two ways to organize water drainage from the shower stall:
- arrange a drainage hole;
- perform simple drainage.
The second option is suitable for a summer shower, which is used only periodically, and the volume of waste is small. Drainage can be arranged directly under the shower by removing part of the soil and replacing it with a bed of sand and gravel or broken bricks. The area can also be paved with cobblestones.
If the soil on the site is clayey, then you will have to remove the soil to a depth of 100 cm and fill the hole with alternating layers of sand and crushed stone. Upper layer– crushed stone, bottom – sand.
If it is assumed active use shower using detergents, you will have to work on the device drain hole. It can be located either directly under the building, but it is better still a little to the side.
If the soil on the site is normal, then a hole 1–1.5 m deep is sufficient. If it is clayey, then it is better to go 2–2.5 m deeper. The walls of the pit must be protected from collapse by lining them with brick or stone. Many people use for this purpose car tires large diameter. Often, an ordinary garden barrel without a bottom, dug into the ground, is also used as a pit.
The size depends on the planned size of the shower stall. The room should be small, but convenient for use by all family members. Therefore, most often the shower room is divided into 2 parts - the “dressing room”, where dry clothes are left, and the shower itself.
Most often, cabins have the following dimensions:
- width – 100 – 120 cm;
- length – 140 – 160 cm.
There are buildings of both smaller and large sizes. But those that are smaller than 1.2 * 1.2 m are not very convenient.
Wooden grates can be used as the floor of the shower cabin, which do not interfere with the drainage of water into the drainage hole.
You can also find steel pallets with a drain hole on sale. Such a pan is connected through a pipe to the drainage pit. But its installation will require concreting the site. The presence of such a tray allows you to avoid drainage under the shower.
For comfortable operation of the shower, you will need to install a sufficiently large tank above it. Its volume is selected based on the number of family members and the approximate water consumption of 40 l/person.
As a tank (or tanks) you can use metal or plastic barrels, painted in dark color. They are mounted directly above the shower. Now on sale you can find flat water tanks directly intended for installation on the roof of a shower room. Modular showers usually come with a built-in tank.
If the tank is large, then its installation may require the construction of a separate supporting frame.
To maintain the hygienic purity of the water in the tank, it must be possible to wash it running water with drain dirty water at the lowest point of the container. This will remove sediment from the bottom of the tank and disinfect it. In order to avoid mosquito larvae and debris from getting into the container, it is better to cover the top opening of the tank with a fine mesh.
For those who want to use the shower not only in summer, but also in autumn, tanks with installed heating elements are available for sale. Being connected to the mains, they allow you to quickly heat the required volume of water to the desired temperature.
Since it is difficult to lift water to a height of more than 2.5 m manually, the container is usually filled using a pump.
What else needs to be considered
Considering that in summer the daylight hours are quite long, the soul can be neglected.
The difficulty is that the room is small and almost always damp. When organizing electric lighting, you must follow all the rules and precautions for laying electrical wires. This will allow you not to be afraid of electric shock while washing.
It is better to organize a small window in the shower wall. The transmitted light is quite enough for comfortable washing.
Humidity in the shower
To ensure that the shower from the sanitary room does not turn into a breeding ground for dampness and mold, it is necessary to provide good ventilation of the room.
If the shower is light, with holes, then it will dry out well. If the room is solid with solid walls, then you need to provide a hole in the upper part of the wall. It will allow heated moist air to quickly leave the shower space and speed up drying.
This is a purely business matter. But still, a beautifully designed shower can serve as a decoration for the area. Therefore, you can plant moisture-loving plants near it, which, given the abundance of water, will quickly grow, and your shower will turn into a fairy-tale house that both adults and children will be happy to visit.
With my own hands. Let's look at the simplest and most accessible ways to construct such a necessary building.
We often spend our summer at the dacha in order to be closer to nature for some time, away from noisy highways and the speed of the metropolis. But the holiday will not be entirely pleasant if we do not have the opportunity to take an invigorating shower, which allows us to wash away dirt and dust, and also makes us fresh and clean on a hot summer day.
Summer shower building it yourself is not so difficult, despite the fact that there are a lot of options for its implementation, some of which are quite simple and do not require serious investments, both time and money. So let's get started.
Ready-made building for a summer residence
If you are too busy man, or you are too lazy to build a shower and you have in cash, then you can simply buy ready product. Or order a frame from a craftsman and install the tank yourself. And that’s it, you can use this wonderful device!
If it's enough for you warm water, you don’t have to use electric heating devices for this. In hot weather, it is enough to install a container of the required volume from available material above the booth, paint it black so that there is better heating by the sun's rays.
The tank will heat up more quickly if you place it in a transparent box made of glass or plastic. Such a structure will allow you to provide yourself with warm water even in cool weather, the main thing is that the sun is not hidden behind clouds.
This option will be the simplest and most convenient for lazy people and money-lovers.
Open design
An outdoor summer shower built with your own hands is suitable for quickly washing away accumulated contaminants. This design very simple and easy to assemble from scrap materials.
This open device will help strengthen the body and increase immunity.
It is best to make such a summer shower with your own hands near some wall, installing a supply pipe with a tap on it and. To protect yourself from prying eyes, you can attach a curtain. To do this, you need a pipe bent with an arc with loops for the curtain.
This is possible if your summer cottage, there is running water. If there is no water supply, you can attach a suitable container to the wall and you can take water procedures.
It is also necessary to protect the building wall and floor covering from the destructive process of water. You can line the wall with water-repellent material and put it on the floor fake diamond or other material. Just the material should not be slippery, otherwise there may be a risk of injury.
If the constructed outdoor shower is located next to the developed site, then no equipment is needed - the water used will evaporate and be absorbed into the ground.
How to build a shower in your country house with your own hands?
To begin, select a suitable and empty place in your dacha to install a new building. If you rarely use the shower, the wastewater can be poured directly into the ground.
But in the case frequent washing, it is necessary to think about withdrawal large quantity water to a specific place. If there is a septic tank, then wastewater can be directed there, of course, if the volume of the tank allows.
After earthworks, you can make the frame of a summer shower with your own hands, which must be solid (strong), because it needs to withstand the weight of the tank. The frame can be made from:
- boards (bars) reinforced with metal corners;
- steel angles or pipes.
A metal structure will be more durable, but will require annual painting to eliminate the possibility of corrosion, whereas wooden frame much easier to do.
Do-it-yourself summer shower - drawings for construction:
The material for the walls can be any available means:
- wooden lining;
- plastic panels;
- flat slate and much more.
Look at the photo of a DIY summer shower:
The inside of the cabin will become more beautiful and stronger if it is lined with plastic clapboard, the floor is made of boards in the form of a lattice, treated wood material from splinters
Consider the erosion of the soil under the shower over time. You can install a plastic or iron tray with ebb for the floor.
Or the simplest option is to pour a layer of crushed stone under the floor.
Look interesting video how to make a budget summer shower in the country:
P.S. As you can see, it is possible to build a shower for a summer house on your own and you do not need to buy expensive materials, you can use what is available.
Most best vacation after hard work in your summer cottage, this is a pleasant, warm, relaxing shower, which will not only have a calming effect, but also relieve the nervous tension that has accumulated over the whole day.
To install the shower use epoxy resin for the manufacture of which special fillers for resins are used.
Therefore, many gardeners equip their plots with summer showers.
Summer shower at your dacha
The outdoor shower stall is perhaps one of the most important buildings on the site. With it, you can not only wash your body after a whole day of work on your site, but also refresh yourself in the summer heat.
Before installing a shower stall on your site, you need to choose the optimal location for it. The shower should be located a short distance from the main building, most often behind the house.
Once the owner of the site has decided on the area for the shower and the size of the shower stall, he can begin installation. This room must be at least 1 sq.m. in area, but preferably a little larger.
If a shower dressing room is planned, in order to undress and hang dry things, the area of the building doubles. The height of the structure is usually approximately 2.5 meters.
In general, the dimensions of our cabin are equal to 1.0x2.0x2.5 m, this best option. If the cabin is planned to be installed from wood, then it is necessary to mount the frame using wooden beams or metal corners.
Walls in the shower stall, for the best way ventilation should be twenty centimeters away from the ceiling and floor. They can be constructed from materials left over from the main construction of a personal home.
Shower equipment with water supply
When installing a shower stall on your summer cottage, the owner must think in advance about how to equip the water supply and drainage. Since the drainage and supply system is installed at the time of laying the foundation of the future shower cabin.
Water in the shower stall is often supplied from a source located at a remote distance. Such a source can be a well drilled on the site, or a standard water supply.
Nowadays, due to the presence of small-diameter plastic pipes, connecting the cabin to the main source of water supply is not difficult. What is advantageous about these pipes is that they are more durable and do not become subject to rust and various erosions, like metal pipes.
They are sold in coils, and there is no particular hassle when laying a pipe for water supply; you only need to ensure a connection to the main source, which can be done using a small, rubber piece of hose.
You can just as easily connect plastic pipe With storage tank For shower. The advantage of such pipes is that if they were not completely installed, they can be easily removed from the site for the winter.
Draining the shower
Drainage of water after washing can be done different ways. Some owners of summer cottages do not drain the water at all.
One of the most normal ways is to drain water into a centralized sewer system, but, unfortunately, not every owner of a summer cottage has this opportunity.
The best way, of course, then remains the waste and drainage hole. This is inexpensive and allows wastewater to go deep into the ground. A pit for drainage water can be located under the shower stall, or in close proximity to it.
It is dug to a depth of no more than 50-60 cm, the size of the sides is 1.0 x 1.0 m. After the hole is dug, the soil in it is compacted tightly and it is covered with crushed stone or broken brick.
A plastic, steel or wooden pallet is placed on top of the filled hole.
After this, the shower stall is installed. If the pit is for Wastewater is located nearby, it is best to make a branch to it from sewer pipe made of plastic.
Photos of ideas on how to make a summer shower in the country
