Lilies are very grateful to the various nutrients that are added to the soil. Feeding lilies in spring and autumn - necessary condition successful cultivation flowers in the garden. To do this, you can use both organic fertilizers and industrially produced mineral preparations.

How to properly use fertilizers for lilies in spring, summer and autumn, and what features should be taken into account when applying fertilizing, you will learn from this article.

Feeding lilies in spring

To achieve longer and abundant flowering, it is very important to take care of the spring nutrition of this plant. It is this that contributes to the accumulation of strength for the successful completion of the processes of budding and flowering.

You will learn how and what to feed lilies in the spring from the sections below.

What is it for?

As you know, during the period of bud appearance, all plants need large amounts of nitrogen, which directly affects the formation of vegetative mass, which is so necessary not only for flowering, but also for preparing the bulb for winter (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Fertilizing flowers in spring

All these processes require a lot of nutrients, so the spring procedure is extremely important for the full development of the plant, the formation of green mass and strong buds.

Peculiarities

The spring procedure has its own characteristics. So, you can only add any substances to heated soil, so that the root system of the plant has the opportunity to absorb useful substances dissolved in water, otherwise they will simply go away with the melt water.

Note: In conditions middle zone In Russia this time comes in early May. An additional signal will be the length of the sprouts - it should be at least 10 cm, while the leaves begin to deviate to the sides of the stem.

You should know that in some cases the addition of nutrients can be harmful, because an excess of minerals inhibits the growth of above-ground parts and roots. Remember that any recharge should be carried out as needed.

For example, if the soil in a flower garden is sufficiently fertile and not depleted perennial plants, then in the first years after planting the bulbs, additional application of substances in the spring will not be required. And, on the contrary, in weakened, poor soil, plants will feel uncomfortable, and there will be fewer and fewer flowers every year. In addition, along with organic matter, weed seeds enter the ground, which develop much faster and can ultimately simply choke out the young shoots of an ornamental plant, and constant weeding is very labor-intensive and time-consuming.

Rules

These crops are quite demanding on the soil nutritional environment throughout the entire growing season.

That’s why it’s so important to know the following rules for feeding in spring:(Figure 2):

In the first year After planting the bulbs, organic matter is added (manure, humus). You should know that humus is added to the soil before planting, and manure is used to prepare slurry (half a liter of manure per bucket of water), which is used to water the seedlings.
In the second and third years after landing plants are fed with a complex mineral preparation consisting of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in a ratio of 1:2:2.
In the second year of life In addition to mineral fertilizer, it is also recommended to apply ammonium nitrate at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m. This substance is applied three times during the entire growing season (after emergence, during budding, at the flowering stage).

Figure 2. Main types of fertilizers for crops

Also in the 3rd year of growth, fertilizer is applied, consisting of superphosphate (20 g per 1 sq. m.), ammonium nitrate (50 g per 1 sq. m.) and potassium salt (25 g per 1 sq. m.). This procedure must be carried out three times in accordance with the stages of crop growth.

How to fertilize a lily in spring

Fertilizing in the spring for flowering in the future differs from the rest in the increased amount of nitrogen applied. The sources of this substance can be both organic and mineral compounds.

Among the organic ones, you can use a fermented (not fresh) mullein solution diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Wood ash diluted in water (a glass of ash per bucket of water) has a good effect on growth. It is applied once during watering, or regularly added in small portions throughout the spring.

Fertilizing lilies in summer

Summer is the time for mass flowering of ornamental plants. Therefore, it is so important to support their strength with nutrients during this period. In addition, summer feeding increases the resistance of plants to various diseases.

Peculiarities

The most common summer procedure is carried out using wood ash. Provided that it is applied correctly and regularly, the crops will delight you with abundant, bright and long-lasting flowering, while remaining healthy (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Fertilizer application in summer

At the stage of bud formation, they are fertilized with ammonium nitrate and the vegetative parts of the plant are treated with a special solution against all kinds of pests. In mid-summer, it is recommended to add superphosphate and potassium magnesium to the soil, which strengthen the plant stems and give the flowers brighter shades.

You should know that during flowering it is more rational to use liquid fertilizers, since granular ones take a very long time to dissolve and therefore do not have the desired effect. Fertilizing with liquid fertilizers occurs after abundant watering.

You will find more information about summer fertilizer in the video.

Rules

To achieve abundant and long flowering, it is necessary to provide the plant with various nutrients.

Feeding is carried out in accordance with certain rules:

At the stage of bud formation Phosphorus-nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil in the form of nitrophos or azophos (1 tablespoon of substance per bucket of water).
In the flowering phase It is recommended to use complex additives containing nitrogen. Therefore, you can use azophoska, amophoska or nitroammophoska at the rate of 1.5 tbsp. on a bucket of water.
Together with complex drugs They also add wood ash, which promotes lush flowering. At the same time, the dosage is observed: 100 g of ash per 1 sq.m. soil.

Having decided what to fertilize the plants in spring and summer, you should prepare in advance for the fall in order to properly fertilize and help the plants prepare for winter.

Feeding lilies in autumn

Autumn feeding is aimed at preparing the bulbs for winter and accumulating useful substances, because the most beautiful varieties may not survive severe frosts and die. Therefore, it is so important to carry out autumn feeding immediately after flowering.

What is it for?

After flowering ends, intensive processes begin to occur in the bulb aimed at preparing the plant for winter (Figure 4).

Figure 4. Fertilizer application in autumn

Phosphorus-potassium fertilizing will be a significant help in the process of accumulating nutrients, because the lily will not only become more resistant to winter cold, but will also increase its level of resistance to various diseases.

Peculiarities

Fertilizing in the fall has some peculiarities. For example, for better ripening of the bulbs, it is recommended to add superphosphate and potassium sulfate to the soil immediately after flowering, and to spray the above-ground parts of the plant during prolonged autumn rains Bordeaux mixture to prevent the development of diseases.

Leaf humus or rotted compost applied to the flowerbed will not only enrich the soil with nutrients and protect it from frost, but will also serve as a wonderful mulch in the spring.

From the video you will learn what care and fertilizers lilies need in the fall.

Rules

To provide the plant with useful nutrients in winter, autumn feeding is carried out according to the following rules:

Application of nitrogen fertilizers in autumn period is strictly contraindicated.
The use of mineral substances is carried out no later than the first days of September, otherwise the growth of young shoots can be provoked.
Potassium and phosphorus fertilizers are used for autumn feeding.
Main autumn procedure carried out after the end of flowering using complex fertilizer (1 tsp each of superphosphate and potassium salt per 5 l hot water). The substance is applied warm at the rate of 0.5 liters of solution per bush.

Subsequent feeding consists of adding a layer of organic mulch to the beds, which not only nourishes the soil, but also protects the bulbs from frost.

Each gardener has his own opinion about additional nutrition for lilies in spring period. These opinions are completely opposite. You just need to figure out whether fertilizers are really so important for lilies in the spring and, if so, which ones.

Why do you need spring feeding?

The growth of green mass in the spring and summer months, the formation of buds and flowering, and the preparation of the plant for a new flowering period depend on the full development of the lily bulb. All this is possible only with adequate nutrition of the underground part of the culture. Healthy and strong root part flowering plant will only happen if fertilizing is applied in a timely manner.

It is recommended to apply fertilizers for the first time warm earth, the temperature of which is not less than 6-7 degrees. Depending on the climatic conditions of a particular area, this could be in early April or the first week of May. At this time, the lilies should already have grown to about 10 cm in height. More early feeding It is useless to apply, because the bulbs are not yet ready to feed and melt water will most likely take all the fertilizers with them.

The need to apply fertilizers in spring is directly related to the composition of the soil in flower beds. Fertile soil, an area with a large amount of humus in the first 2-3 years after planting lilies does not need fertilizing. But on the poor plot of land these flowering crops will look weak without fertilizer. Without additional nutritional support, the plant will lose its decorative properties and will need to be replanted to a new location in the coming years.

Spring feeding also has its drawbacks. If the soil is oversaturated with minerals, then the growth and development of the entire plant (above-ground and underground parts) will noticeably lag behind. An excess of fertilizers depresses lilies. But at this time the weeds begin to actively grow, as they take all the food for themselves. They are significantly taller than young flower seedlings, and all the light goes to the weeds to a greater extent. Lilies require even more extra attention and time for care, especially weeding.

For the full growth and development of lilies throughout the summer period, the following spring feeding options are recommended:

1 tbsp. ammonium nitrate for each square meter flower plot;
Complex fertilizer - nitroammophoska;
For 10 liters of water – 1 liter of fermented mullein solution;
For 10 liters of water - 1 glass of wood ash, pre-sifted (used periodically in small volumes throughout the spring season or once along with irrigation water);
Compost humus or rotted manure;
Vermicompost obtained as a result of the activity and life processes of earthworms;

Experienced flower growers and gardeners do not recommend using fresh manure or mullein as fertilizer for lilies. This feeding contributes to the appearance of various infectious or fungal diseases. In addition, aggressive microflora of this fertilizer can cause rapid rotting of the bulbs and death of the entire plant even before the flowering period begins.

Feeding lilies before flowering (video)

If roses are the queens of the garden, then lilies are the duchesses. But to get abundant flowering, you cannot do without fertilizing.

✔Fertilizing lilies when planting

If the soil in which the bulbs are to be planted is rested, fertile, and humus-rich, then pre-planting fertilizer may not be applied. In other cases, the soil will have to be fertilized. Which fertilizer to choose depends on the preferences of the garden owner.

Lilies love organic matter (with the exception of fresh manure, which should not be applied under any circumstances). The rate of application of organic fertilizers is standard: 7-8 kg per 1 sq. m. m. At the same time you can add double superphosphate− 100 g per 1 sq. m. If there is wood ash, this is a great success, since lilies adore it, responding to the addition of ash to the ground with large and bright flowers, increasing winter hardiness and disease resistance. Wood ash is added at the rate of 100 g per 1 sq. m.

If there is no organic matter, then apply any mineral fertilizers, including nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (if spring planting) and phosphorus and potassium (if planting in autumn). There are many types of mineral fertilizers. Depending on which of them are at hand, they can be added in the dosage indicated on the package.

✔Fertilizing lilies in spring

At this time, lilies, like all plants, desperately need nitrogen, without which they will not be able to gain enough vegetative mass for high-quality flowering. First spring feeding can also be carried out on melting snow. To do this, ammonium nitrate or urea is scattered over the soil surface - 2 tbsp. l. per 1 sq. m. If the site has a slope and melt water for the most part they run away from it, it is useless to carry out such feeding. In this case, the flowers begin to be fed later, when the soil dries out a little. Fermented mullein or the same urea (ammonium nitrate) is suitable, but in the form of a solution - 1 tbsp. l. per bucket of water (per 1 sq. m).

✔Fertilizing lilies in summer

The next feeding is carried out when the plants begin to form the first buds. Feeding with nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizer at this time has a positive effect on the size of the bud and the brightness of the petals. Azophos and nitrophos are well suited for this - 1 tbsp. l. on a bucket of water.

Another feeding is needed at a time when the lilies are already blooming. Its purpose is to prolong flowering by giving the plant a sufficient amount of the substances it needs. For this purpose, complex fertilizers containing amophoska, azophoska, and nitroammophoska are used. They are diluted in water at the rate of 1.5 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.

Any of the summer fertilizing can be combined with the addition of a complex of microelements to the soil in the dose specified by the manufacturer, or wood ash (100 g per 1 sq. m).

✔Fertilizing lilies in autumn

The plants have already bloomed, it doesn’t seem like autumn yet, but summer is already coming to an end. At this time, intensive processes take place underground in the bulb, storing nutrients for the next year. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizing will significantly increase the winter hardiness of lily bulbs. For this, superphosphate and potassium magnesium are used. Take 1 tbsp per bucket of water. l. double superphosphate (or 2 simple) and 1.5 tbsp. l. potassium magnesia. Superphosphate does not dissolve well, so the water will have to be slightly heated first. This solution is used to water the plantings - 1 bucket per 1 square meter. m.

The last operation of the season is also a kind of feeding; it is done in late autumn. The place where the bulbs hid in the already freezing soil until spring should be sprinkled with a 10 cm layer of compost - this will simultaneously serve as top dressing for the next year and insulation for the winter.

Similar articles2.

Planted lilies definitely need shelter. For these purposes, sawdust, dry peat, fallen leaves, and shavings are used. Lilies should be covered for the winter only after the soil has slightly frozen, so that mice and other rodents do not find “both the table and the house” under the sawdust. And in the spring, the shelter must be removed in time, even before the sprouts appear.

To prevent mice from bothering the lilies, you can plant colchicum or daffodils, or real snowdrops, around their beds.

On light sandy soils, lily bulbs are planted deeper than on heavy soils. As a rule, low-growing lilies are planted to a depth of 10-12 cm (large bulbs) and 7-8 cm (small ones); medium-sized, respectively, 12-15 and 8-10 cm; tall - 15-20 and 10-12 cm (depth is indicated to the bottom of the bulb).

When the soil warms up and becomes suitable for planting, in the Moscow region this is the last ten days of April - the beginning of May.

So, the most important thing in the growing process is to refrain from cutting the stem, even after the plant has flowered and does not look neat enough, you should not perform such actions, because after removing the stem and leaves, growth stops, and at the same time development, which will worsen aging.

In the spring, the covering peat can be left - it will serve as fertilizer and mulch for the plants.

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When choosing a place to plant lilies, you need to take into account the height of the plants, the size and shape of the flower, and its color.

I dig up lily bulbs with a garden fork, trying not to damage the roots.

On the contrary, they bloom luxuriantly only in acidic soil. The best fertilizer for them is needles from under old spruce trees.

Lilies

Applying fresh or slightly decomposed manure.

When the white (or snow-white) "Lilium candidum" (Lilium candidum) is in bloom, collect its petals and use them for cooking medicinal tincture, which also cleanses the skin well. Fill half a dark glass jar with the petals of blossoming flowers, fill them with wine alcohol so that it covers the petals by 2 fingers, close the jar tightly and put it in a dark, cool place for 6 weeks. Pour a little liquid into a small dark jar, dilute it by two-thirds with cold boiled water and use, remembering to shake before use, to wipe your face with a moistened cotton swab. For muscle pain, rub the sore areas with undiluted white lily tincture. If you prick or cut your finger and an abscess starts, take a lily petal from the tincture, apply it to the wound, cover with parchment and bandage it - the next day the abscess will disappear.

In the spring, before the lily shoots appear, I add nitrogen fertilizers to the soil, for example, ammonium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 1 m2). Or I feed the lily plantings with organic and mineral fertilizers: a solution of fermented mullein (in no case should fresh mullein be used to feed lilies) in a ratio (1:10), a solution or granules of nitroammophoska or ammonium nitrate (40-50 g per 10 liters of water or per 1 m 2).

The distance between lily bulbs when planting depends on the height and power of the plants. I plant large lilies every 20-25 cm, low ones - at a distance of 10-15 cm from one another. When planting lilies, make grooves or holes 10 cm deeper than required for planting (since lilies are usually planted with roots). But some annual lilies may not have roots, which may be due to dry soil. The main thing when buying planting material for garden lilies is the absence of spots and rot on the bulbs - sure signs of disease. The roots of the bulbs should not be dried. When purchasing in the spring, I try to choose lily bulbs with slightly hatched sprouts for growing. Before planting, I store the bulbs in the refrigerator, on the lowest shelf. When one of the bulbs suddenly decides that it’s time and begins to grow with might and main, you have to plant it in flower pot, and after frost - transfer to open ground.

Do not be alarmed that the stems and leaves look sluggish - they continue to nourish the bulb in sufficient volume for full growth to occur. We also advise you not to touch annual roots - they are also a good source of nutrition. Whereas spruce branches and leaves should be removed from lily plantings as early as possible so as not to damage the sprouts.

Tall lilies are best planted in the background in a flower garden or in separate groups, several of the same variety. Low-growing varieties and types of lilies with no large flowers good on an alpine hill. I shake off the earth from them and carefully inspect them. Scales with rusty and brown spots need to be removed from the bulbs. After digging, such bulbs are washed under the tap or in two waters, and then kept for 20 minutes in a solution of karbofos (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Asian hybrids

- a plant of extraordinary beauty, with a pronounced aroma and magnificent flowers, striking in the variety of colors and shades. Growing lilies yourself is not at all difficult. You just need to properly care for them and fertilize the plants in a timely manner. The choice of fertilizers should be taken seriously. Feeding lilies must be done following certain rules. It is necessary to observe the feeding time and pay attention to the composition of fertilizers.

KakProsto.ru

Rules for planting and caring for lilies. Ornamental plant nursery

Lilies do not tolerate fresh manure.

When planting a bulb, I pour a mound of washed river sand on the bottom of the planting hole, place a lily bulb on it, carefully straighten the existing roots, and then fill the hole with the plant with earth. Before planting, the bulbs are washed in running water and pickled for 20-30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water) or for 30-40 minutes in a solution of the drug foundationazol to prevent fungal diseases of lily bulbs.

However, if you really want to maintain the flowerbed in good condition, and not in a fading state, then best advice here there will be camouflage of fading parts. How to do it? It is enough to simply plant beautiful decorative and tall grass in the foreground, which will hide all the imperfections. Or plant batches of annuals, which will also perfectly hide all the errors of yellowed leaves. In lily plantings covered for the winter, the soil does not freeze for a long time, and therefore their roots continue to grow almost all winter.

Lilies grow normally in bright sun, but they also like partial shade. If the bulbs are clean and with roots, then they are only pickled for 20–30 minutes in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate.

- lilies with the most flexible character. They are the most unpretentious. They will grow where they are planted and will be content with minimal care. Feeding lilies in the spring

How to avoid this. Reproduction by daughter bulbs (children). Babies are formed in almost all lilies above the bulb, on the underground part of the stem. They are separated from mother plant in autumn or in early spring during transplantation or simply after raking the soil from the stem. The separated daughter bulbs are planted on permanent place or for growing in nurseries. Children bloom in 2-4 years.

It reduces the winter hardiness of the plant and weakens flowering. Although manure causes rapid growth of the above-ground part, the lily bulb suffers from it and may grow unhealthy. You also need to cut off lifeless roots and shorten too long living ones.

The young shoots of garden lilies are afraid of the cold, and therefore, if I planted them in the spring, then I cover them before frost. I use three-liter bottles for this. plastic bottles with a cut off bottom - the shoots feel quite comfortable in them.

Lilies love to eat, and therefore they simply need regular feeding, both during and after flowering. The most successful fertilizers will be complexes containing potassium and phosphorus, but mineral mixtures, on the contrary, should be avoided - they are not suitable for lilies in principle, although at first glance it may seem that this is not the case. The fact is that the result of using mineral fertilizing is too short-term, and as mentioned above, lilies need regular nutrition in large quantities, which will produce a long-term effect. Mineral fertilizers also carry negative stages of lily development - after their use, lilies become more tender and painful, flowering power will decrease, and wintering can be difficult, not to mention an increased susceptibility to various infections.

Lily roots are capable of growing at very low positive temperatures. In too much sun, lilies dry out without abundant but infrequent watering; As a result, the plants grow too short, stunted, and bloom faster.

After washing and dressing, I dry the lily bulbs in the shade, cut the roots to 5 - 10 cm, and then plant them. All lilies cannot tolerate fresh manure and begin to suffer from various fungal diseases. In damp, cool summers, lilies can also get sick from overwatering. For prevention, all lilies can be treated with a fungicide, for example "Hom", "Bordeaux mixture".

In early spring, even before shoots appear, it is recommended to fertilize and care for lilies using nitrogen fertilizers. Ammonium nitrate is good for these purposes, as it has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of lilies. You need to fertilize the soil with ammonium nitrate at the rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 square meter. m. In addition, you can feed the plants using organic or mineral fertilizers. For these purposes, nitroammophoska in granules or a solution of fermented mullein are well suited. As organic fertilizer When planting lilies, use ready-made disinfected composts ("PIKSA", "Bogatyr") or leaf humus.

Reproduction by scales.Good results are achieved by adding wood ash (100 g/m2). You can add ash several times a season. Thanks to this, lily flowers become larger, more intensely colored and more resistant to disease.

Lilies do not tolerate manure, even when applied before winter during spring planting. On heavy soils, sand is added to the bottom of the hole, the roots are carefully spread to the sides and covered with fine soil. After planting, the soil is mulched with peat, rotted compost, and rotted sawdust. Mulching helps retain moisture in the soil, insulates autumn planting, and in the spring it provides additional nutrition to the plants. If it is necessary to preserve the bulbs for several days, they are placed in a cool place, covered with damp moss, sawdust, sand or just soil.

Most suitable fertilizers in the spring, when the frosts are over and there are no shoots yet, there will be: ammonium nitrate (proportions: 1 tablespoon per 1 sq.m.), such feeding has a positive effect on plant growth; granulated nitroammofoska and other fertilizers containing nitrogen. In the spring, before the lily shoots appear, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil.

Sunlight throughout the day is not necessary for lilies, but is very desirable in the first half. I plant the bulbs in previously prepared soil.

Location of lilies and care

Water only at the roots. Plants should not be watered by leaves. The only exceptions are oriental lilies. But they can also be watered from a watering can and only with water that has settled and heated, for example, from a barrel. Feeding lilies in summer

3. You can separate the scales from the bulbs at any time of the year, including winter, if the bulbs are dug up in advance and stored in

Once again about feeding:When choosing a place to plant lilies, you need to take into account that they do not tolerate stagnant water.

I plant lilies every three yearsAmmonia nitrate should also be used with the appearance of the first buds. Good job will feed the lilies after flowering with organic fertilizers, but under no circumstances use manure or compost - these options can cause burns and the generation of fungi, as a result of which the plant may slow down its development or even die.

For example, a liter of ammonium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 1 m2). Or they feed the lily plantings with organic and mineral fertilizers: a solution of fermented mullein (in no case should fresh mullein be used to feed lilies) in a ratio of (1:10), a solution or granules of nitroammophoska or ammonium nitrate (40-50 g per 10 liters of water or per 1 m2). Large morning drops of moisture on the leaves are especially dangerous for lilies: they act like lenses. As a result, the leaves get sunburn, which in humid weather then turns into a fungal disease. gray mold(botrytis).

In this case, in dry weather on the eve of planting, the soil must be shed to the required depth. If the soil is not very dry, you can water the bulbs in the planting furrow - this saves energy and time; Much less irrigation water will be needed. As a rule, we purchase seeds and bulbs in advance.

Feeding lilies wood ash- This is a fairly common practice used experienced gardeners. During the summer period, it is recommended to carry out such fertilizing 4-5 times. Ash has a positive effect on the growth of lilies, resulting in larger flowers. If you feed lilies in the summer according to all the rules, then the plant will bloom magnificently, the flowers will delight you with bright and rich shades. In addition, proper fertilizer will be a good disease prevention. Lilies will grow strong and resistant to almost all diseases. Lack of watering or improper watering.

Winter shelter of lilies

cool place. In order for lilies to bloom well, they are fed three times during the season.

White and light-colored varieties require well-lit and protected from light places, while brightly and darkly colored varieties tolerate partial shade well. . Processing planting material a weak solution of potassium permanganate. I prepare holes, it is preferable to plant in sunny places, maybe a little thickened, I put pebbles on the bottom so that excess water does not stagnate and the bulbs do not rot. I cover the pebbles with soil mixed with pine needles, lilies like this kind of soil. The bulbs do not get sick and grow large. I dug holes 10 cm deep. I specially planted them a little deeper to protect them from return frosts in the spring. Without cutting the roots of the bulbs, I planted them in the holes. After planting, I covered the holes with peat and watered them. In the summer I watered my lilies regularly, and only after flowering did I reduce the watering

The best solutions for fertilizing lilies are solutions containing useful microelements; it is especially important to use them after the flowering period, this will promote better ripening of the bulbs, and most importantly, the formation of buds, which means more lush flowering next season. The addition of wood ash (100 g/m2) gives good results.

Although the roots of lilies reach a depth of two meters, during dry periods they need to be watered at the root. All lilies need loose, nutritious, permeable soil for good growth.

Fertilizing lilies

If lily bulbs were purchased in early spring, then before planting they are stored in the lower compartment of the refrigerator (at a temperature slightly above 0 degrees) in a plastic bag with holes filled with sphagnum or dry high-moor peat. As a rule, under such storage conditions, lily bulbs do not form large sprouts (more than 5 cm). They can be planted in a film greenhouse, in pots or plastic bottles, protected from frost. Plants can be transplanted into open ground together with a lump of earth only after the end of spring frosts. During the period of bud formation, it is recommended to fertilize the lilies again with ammonium nitrate. In addition, it is worth carefully treating all vegetative parts of the plant with special compounds against pests. This will allow the lilies to grow healthier.

Despite the intolerance of excess moisture by most lilies, prolonged drought is also destructive for these flowers, and in dry weather lilies need watering. Depending on the time of year, the scales after preliminary preparation planted in beds, in boxes, in greenhouses or stored as bulbs.

The first feeding is needed in the spring when the stems begin to grow: 30 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water per 1 sq. m. m. Second - full mineral fertilizer during the budding period: 30 - 50 g of nitrophoska per 10 liters of water per 1 sq. m. After flowering, for better ripening of the bulbs, a third feeding is carried out: 30 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate per 10 liters of water per 1 sq. m. m.Caring for lilies consists of regular weeding, loosening the soil, fertilizing and watering. It is very important to maintain optimal soil water regime. Avoid excessive watering and too thick plantings.

Lily planting areas should not be flooded in spring and autumn with water. By the way, experienced gardeners recommend feeding lilies with wood ash at least four or even five times during the summer. Ash has a productive effect on the size of buds and their flowering, and also increases the plant’s immunity. During the flowering period, treat the plants against infections and pests; this is usually the time of exacerbation for lilies. In mid-summer, it is important to add double doses of superphosphate and potassium magnesium to the substrate to strengthen the stems.

You can add ash several times a season. Thanks to this, lily flowers become larger, more intensely colored and more resistant to disease. It is not advisable to wet lily leaves when watering.

Light loams, fertilized sandy loam soils, and cultivated garden lands are well suited. On heavy, damp, uncultivated soils, lily bulbs rot due to the accumulation of moisture between the scales, which can lead to their death. Such soils must first be made more loose by adding sand, perlite or another leavening agent. Fresh manure should not be used when growing lilies. Excess organic fertilizer causes strong growth of the vegetative part to the detriment of the formation of healthy bulbs; winter hardiness of plants and resistance to diseases decreases; flowering is weakened. If the bulb of lilies purchased in the spring has too large a sprout, then it must be planted at an angle.

zpitomnik.ru

How to care for lilies during spring and summer

The next stage of feeding lilies should be done in July. During this period, it is necessary to add double superphosphate and potassium magnesium substrate to the soil. These fertilizers help strengthen the plant stems and make the flowers more vibrant. This is especially noticeable on varieties that bloom with pink or light red flowers. It is important to remember that feeding lilies during flowering should be done using liquid fertilizers. Granular ones will not have enough time to dissolve in the soil and give the desired effect. It is better to feed the plants immediately after abundant watering. How to avoid this.

Caring for faded lilies

The scales separated from the bulb are kept for 15 minutes. in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, slightly dried and placed in plastic bags or dishes with moistened sawdust, peat at a temperature of +20 +22 0C. After 5-6 weeks, bulbs with roots form on the scales. In the spring they are planted in the ground. Lilies need disease prevention. To do this, the plant needs to be sprayed with one percent Bordeaux mixture several times a year, preferably at the beginning or end of July. When watering lilies, you need to ensure that drops of water do not fall on the leaves of the plant (which can cause burns and the development of diseases) - try to direct stream of water under the root of the plant.

Feeding lilies after flowering

Lilies should be planted so that garden paths were located on the south side - then the flowers will look in their direction. When a month has passed after flowering, the plant will be ready for replanting; it is not recommended to rush in this matter, since the lily bulbs need to ripen sufficiently and stock up on nutrients. Transplanting too early can affect the plant - at best, it will be difficult for it to take root, at worst, the plant may die. As soon as lily sprouts appear, it is recommended to spill the soil with Bordeaux mixture or Lazurin composition. I mulch the lily plantings so that soil moisture is retained as long as possible.I plant the prepared lily bulbs immediately, without drying them out like tulips during storage, since the succulent scales of lily bulbs do not have a protective shell.

Replanting lilies after flowering

The main planting of lilies is early autumn.

Lily blossoms are the most mesmerizing sight. To admire this beauty in the summer, you need to not only plant them, weed them, loosen them and water them. You need to know the “appetites” of your beauties. Watering should be done abundantly, but infrequently. Water only at the root: water that gets on the leaves can provoke the development of diseases. Reproduction by bees.

Caring for lilies (video)

Water lilies at the root and only in the morning or afternoon. The main planting of lilies is early autumn.

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How to properly plant lilies and care for them.

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Dilute 1 tbsp in 9 liters of water. l. drinking soda, ammonia and copper sulfate, previously dissolved in 1 liter warm water (copper sulfate pour in the last one in a thin stream with continuous stirring).

It is better not to loosen the soil around the lilies at all, given that the soil with the lilies is mulched. This warning is due to the fact that it is undesirable to disturb the superficially located supra-bulb roots of lilies and children on the stems, and so as not to accidentally break the stem itself. In addition, the roots of the bulbs are preserved. If there is a need to store the bulbs for some time, then I put them in boxes or bags, placing them with wet peat, fresh pine sawdust or moss.

In the first ten days of August, they begin to dig up, divide and replant four- and five-year-old lilies. This is due to the weakening of their flowering due to soil depletion and lack of development area for the multiplied bulbs. Sometimes lilies are replanted more often - once every 2-3 years. More frequent digging of lilies is usually due to the fact that they suffer from a pest - thrips, which eats the scales of the bulbs. In addition, in case of severe damage to lilies by gray rot, it is advisable to change the planting site.

The first to bloom in the garden is the candidum lily, the snow-white and most fragrant. Next, the most unpretentious “Asians,” or Asian hybrids, start their own round dance. Then comes the perfume "cannonade" of tubular and oriental beauties. In order for the ball of beauties to take place, in the spring it is necessary to show attention and care to each plant.

Bulb-bearing varieties are most often found among Asian hybrids.

When the lilies have buds, repeat feeding with ammonium nitrate. The vegetative part of the plants is treated against pests and diseases, since healthy shoots and leaves determine full flowering next year. For the third time (in July, no later), double superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) and potassium magnesia (1.5 tablespoons per 10 liters) are added under the lilies. Loosen the soil around the lilies very carefully , and mulching is used to retain moisture in the soil different materials, including mown grass. Getting water on the leaves is especially dangerous in the morning, because drops of water can become lenses that collect light and cause a burn. This can lead to the development of a fungal disease - botrytis.

It is usually customary to replant lilies in early August, preferably in the early days. You should start when the leaves and stem have completely withered. The dead parts should be carefully separated from the plant, and the bulb should be treated with a disinfectant.

When the lilies have buds, repeat feeding with ammonium nitrate.Moderate soil moisture for lilies is necessary throughout the season.

The planting depth of lily bulbs depends on their type, size and mechanical composition of the soil.

The timing of transplanting lilies can be shifted to mid-to-late August or even September.As soon as the lilies emerge from the ground, they need to be fed with nitrogen fertilizers. They will help plants quickly get into shape and gain leaf mass. Urea or ammonium nitrate, 30-35 g per 1 sq.m., are suitable for fertilizing.

Overheating of the soil.

A number of lily varieties have the ability to form small stem soil bulbs - bulbs - in the axils of the leaves. As they ripen in August-September, they are collected and planted in the same way as children. The plantings are covered for the winter. You can plant bulbs in the spring, then they are stored all winter in tied plastic bags with peat at tO 1-3°C. Even if the lilies are severely damaged by gray rot, they still feed the plants.

In hot weather, waterlogging provokes the development of fungal diseases, including fusarium (onion rot) and bacterial (wet) rot.

After the end of the lily's flowering, 1-1.5 months must pass before it is transplanted for the bulb to gain strength - to become large, dense, and elastic. This process is influenced by all factors: heat, moisture, and nutrition.

If the leaves are still green, then, unfortunately, you need to cut them off completely - a small shoot should remain, like a stump. When the time comes for planting, dry the bulbs thoroughly in the shade and treat the bulbs with charcoal or a solution of potassium permanganate, then shorten the roots and begin planting in the prepared soil. Neutral, loose soil is best suited for lilies; clay soil should be avoided, since clay retains moisture, and excessive dampness is harmful to the lily root system. Planting plants depends on the variety and composition of the soil; if the soil is light, you can plant deep, but if it is clay, then vice versa - shallow, low-growing varieties We recommend planting at a depth of 10-12 cm, and tall ones - at 20 cm. Lilies should be planted at a distance of about 25 cm from each other. It is also important to pay attention to the planting location; light varieties do not like wind and prefer light, while dark colors are excellent feel in the shadows.

The vegetative part of plants is treated against pests and diseases, since healthy shoots and leaves determine full flowering next year. For the third time (in July, no later), double superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) and potassium magnesia (1.5 tablespoons per 10 liters) are added under the lilies.

The greatest need for water occurs in the first half of summer, as well as after lilies bloom, when the formation of bulbs begins and the accumulation of nutrient reserves for the winter.

Usually the bulb is planted to a depth three times its diameter. The only exceptions are a few types of lilies.

The timing is determined, first of all, by the condition of the bulbs: after flowering, lily bulbs are severely depleted, lose weight, and become loose; the scales become thinner and wither. The next feeding should be given to the lilies before flowering, when the buds begin to form. This supplement must contain potassium and phosphorus. Complex nitrophoska or kemira, rastvorin are suitable.

Very harmful to lilies, especially in open spaces. Too much heat disrupts the flow of biological processes in the bulb.

Common mistakes when growing lilies

The bulbs need food - after all, the roots of lilies continue to work, and the bulb gains nutrients, although worse than with leaves. In cool weather, excess moisture contributes to the development of brown spotting

I dig up lily bulbs with a garden fork

As we have already figured out, lilies love proper and regular care; a lot of time will have to be spent on various feedings and disinfection - many insects and rodents are dangerous for these flowers. To combat unwanted guests, you can use products such as “Medvetox”, “Zemlin” and others, but rodents are easier to deal with using baits; they are usually well repelled by daffodils - many rodents do not like their smell. Even if lilies are very strong suffered from gray rot, they still feed the plants.

When cutting flowers, keep as many leaves as possible on the stem.

On light sandy soils, lily bulbs are planted deeper than on heavy soils.After the end of flowering of the lily, 1–1.5 months should pass before it is transplanted.

Fertilizer 25-30 g should be dissolved in 10 liters of water. If the soil is dry, it is better to shed it with plain water, then fertilize it. If there is ash, scatter it around the plants. The color of the lilies will become even brighter and more expressive.

How to avoid this.

Neutral or slightly acidic, loose, permeable soil is well suited for almost all lilies. Every summer 2-3 times I sprinkle the beds with lilies with ash - it serves both as a fertilizer and at the same time kills pathogenic fungi. The lily beetle and its larvae, which eat leaves and buds, are very dangerous for lilies. The beetle is red-orange in color, up to 1 cm long. It is clearly visible on plants, so it can be collected by hand.

, being careful not to damage the roots. I shake off the soil from them and carefully examine them. Scales with rusty and brown spots need to be removed from the bulbs. After digging, such bulbs are washed under the tap or in two waters, and then kept for 20 minutes in a solution of karbofos (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

However, you can save a lot on watering - excessive moisture can harm lilies, especially in extreme heat, causing fungal diseases, in this case, the infected bulbs will have to be carefully dug up and removed.

The bulbs need food - after all, the roots of lilies begin to work, and the bulb gains nutrients, although worse than in the presence of leaves. Removing leaves (1/3 or more) leads to worse flowering or its absence next year.

As a rule, low-growing lilies are planted to a depth of 10-12 cm (large bulbs) and 7-8 cm (small ones); medium-sized, respectively, 12-15 and 8-10 cm; tall - 15-20 and 10-12 cm (depth is indicated to the bottom of the bulb).

This is necessary for the bulb to gain strength - to become large, dense, and elastic. This process is influenced by all factors: heat, moisture, and nutrition.

You can apply foliar feeding to the leaves with fertilizers containing microelements (magnesium, iron, boron, manganese). Well-soluble fertilizers in water are suitable for this.

Mulch the soil with light-colored materials (sawdust, straw, grass clippings)..Low-lying area for planting.

Faded flowers should be removed from the peduncles, and the peduncles themselves should be trimmed at the end of the season.

If the lily plantings are large and there are too many beetles and larvae, you will have to spray them with special preparations. Unfortunately, spraying blooming lilies reduces their decorative qualities: stains remain on the leaves and buds, and cut flowers acquire an unpleasant odor.

If the bulbs are clean and with roots, then they are only pickled for 20-30 minutes in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate.

In the first year of life, lilies usually do not reach their full development and may bloom poorly, but in subsequent blooms they will delight with their duration and abundance.

For almost all lilies, neutral or slightly acidic, loose, permeable soil is well suited.After autumn transplant For lilies, not before heavy autumn rains, I cover the bulbs for the winter with leaves, spruce branches or peat, and on top with a whole plastic film.

The distance between lily bulbs when planting depends on the height and power of the plants.

When favorable conditions at the beginning of August they begin to transplant lilies of June flowering dates (mainly Asian hybrids).

There are some peculiarities in caring for some types of lilies.

Lilies do not tolerate excess moisture. Planting in lowlands leads to diseases, rotting of the bulbs and even their death.
In late autumn, the stems of lilies are cut short. In areas with little snow and harsh winter conditions, lily plantings should be covered with peat or sawdust with a layer of 10 cm.

Sometimes the buds are damaged by the lily fly,
After washing and dressing, I dry the lily bulbs in the shade, cut the roots to 5 - 10 cm, and then plant them

How to properly plant lilies and care for them.

Every summer, it is advisable to sprinkle the beds with lilies with ash 2-3 times - it serves both as a fertilizer and at the same time kills pathogenic fungi.
This technique is mandatory for Oriental hybrids (Orientals), since in their original form these lilies grow where autumn and winter are dry.

I plant large lilies every 20-25 cm, short ones - at a distance of 10-15 cm from one another. When planting lilies, make grooves or holes 10 cm deeper than required for planting (since lilies are usually planted with roots). But some annual lilies may not have roots, which may be due to dry soil.
If at the time of division the plants are green, without signs of disease, then before transplanting the stems of the lilies are cut off close to the surface of the soil, leaving a stump. If the stems of the lilies have died (which indicates the presence of fungal diseases), then, having dug up the bulbs, carefully unscrew the dead stems from them. Tubular lilies
A bouquet of lilies remains fresh for more than 10 days. Cut lily flowers are quite unpretentious and do not require frequent changes of water in the vase. Don't be afraid to buy a lily from unopened buds. It is enough if at least one flower begins to open on the branch. The more closed buds on the stem, the better - the flowering will last longer. Lily buds open gradually, from the bottom to the top, just remove the faded ones as they fade.
How to avoid this.
In the 2-3rd year after planting, lilies bloom especially abundantly; in the 4th-5th year, plant growth usually decreases, and flowering also weakens garden flower. This serves as a signal that it is time to divide and transplant the lily to a new location.
lays eggs in them. Young plants are often affected by aphids. Bulbs in the soil are damaged by mole crickets, thrips, wireworms, and May beetle larvae. Fighting these insects is difficult, but necessary. We recommend the following drugs: “Medvetox”, “Provotox”, “Pochin”, “Zemlin”, “Grom”, “Grom-2”, “Fly-eater”, “Grizzly”.
Lilies are different from each other. Special attention require oriental lilies. In September they need to be protected from rain, and then from frost. The rest of the Asian lilies and hybrids do not require shelter for the winter.
An important tip for further excellent growth and development of large colorful buds is proper preparation bulbs for planting. It is after the period of shedding of the petals, when flowering ends, that the process of ripening of the bulb begins, and the state of the next “harvest” depends on this. Thus, if we do not miss a period, we are guaranteed a lush garden next season. Lilies are also grown for cutting and as a simple decoration for flower beds; the largest and healthiest bulbs are obtained from those that bloomed naturally and in the right conditions.
Asian hybrids, LA hybrids and OT hybrids do not need to be protected from atmospheric moisture.
When planting a bulb, I pour a mound of washed river sand at the bottom of the planting hole.After three to five years of cultivation without replanting, most lilies form extensive “nests” of bulbs of various ages and sizes.
They love lime very much. After all, their ancestors once lived on mountain slopes, on limestone. Include calcium nitrate in their fertilizing, add dolomite or fluff lime.
If you get dirty with pollen
You need to choose a site for planting where there is no stagnation of melt and rain water either in spring or autumn, or arrange for reliable drainage.
You need to start caring for lilies from the moment they are planted.When cutting flowers, keep as many leaves on the stem as possible. Removing leaves (1/3 or more) leads to worse flowering or no flowering next year.
The depth of planting lily bulbs depends on their type, size and mechanical composition of the soil. Typically, the bulb is planted to a depth three times its diameter. The only exceptions are a few types of lilies.
Let's start planting lilies
It’s no secret that cutting slows down development, but with proper care, the likelihood of growing a large, fertile onion is quite high.

But I always cover the lilies the same way, that is, always with film. If the rains begin in September, then cover the lily plantings with film, and put the leaves under the film only after the ground freezes above (so that mice cannot get to the bulbs).

I place a lily bulb on it, carefully straighten the existing roots, and then fill the hole with the plant with earth.

Such “nests” usually fall apart after digging, but sometimes they have to be divided. This must be done after cutting the stems with extreme caution.

Oriental lilies,

Remove pollen from furniture and clothing using adhesive tape. Almost all varieties of lilies have a rich smell. Lilies with large white and Pink colour- especially, which intensifies at night. Therefore, it is recommended to remove the vase with lilies from the bedrooms.