Storm sewer on site. Do-it-yourself storm sewer. Combination of storm and drainage systems

Experienced Builders and suburban residents are well aware that "extra" water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and ground floor, washing out the base, flooding the beds, swamping the territory, etc. As a result, spring, autumn and even summer summer cottage you can't walk without rubber boots.

In this article, we'll look at:

How to arrange water drainage on the site.
How to make a budget storm sewer with your own hands.
Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of the developer and the suburban homeowner

On the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and a storm sewer system, you can write a separate book. Therefore, we will leave a detailed enumeration of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence outside the scope of this article, and concentrate on practice. But without a minimum theoretical knowledge, to be taken for independent arrangement drainage and storm sewers - throwing money down the drain.

The point is that even improperly made drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped with geotextile, which was placed in clay, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. And the money for the arrangement of drainage has already been spent and, most importantly, the construction of drainage is associated with a large volume earthworks with the help of technology.

Therefore, simply digging and shifting a drainage pipe 3-5 years after its laying is difficult and expensive. The site is already inhabited, done landscape design, a blind area was equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. were installed.

We'll have to puzzle over how to redo the drainage so as not to turn the entire site around.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological survey data(which will help to find a water-resistant layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of the house or swamping of the site.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with a period of snowmelt and an abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

capillary water.
Ground water.
Verkhovodka.

Moreover, surface water, if it is not diverted in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground, turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be diverted by storm (rain) sewage, rather than trying to do surface drainage!

Storm sewer- this is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, removing water from drains outside the site + competent organization relief in the backyard. This will avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made when independent device drainage:

Non-observance of the correct slope of the laid drainage pipes. If we take the average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter drainage pipe.

Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on the "wrong" ground. To avoid siltation, a pipe in geotextile is used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

The use of cheaper limestone rubble instead of granite, which is washed away with water over time.
Savings on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as the transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m / day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm sewer

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm sewers on the site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price of them "bites". This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for arranging storm sewers and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain meltwater that comes from a neighbor. Water must be diverted to a ditch. I thought about how to make a water outlet. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they will leave “extra” gratings, and I don’t need special aesthetics for storm water. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and cut them along with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted by the need to saw asbestos-cement pipes on their own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users responded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to get involved with cutting pipes on their own, Denis1235 I found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately be sawn into pieces 2 m long (so that a 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be brought to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme for laying trays.

The result is the following pie:

Soil base in the form of a bed.
A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
Concrete about 7 cm.
Tray from asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget shower at the dacha. It took: 2 days to dig a trench, two more days to concrete and install the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the track "overwintered" perfectly, did not crack and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the site dry. Also of interest is the option of rain (storm) sewage of the portal user with the nickname yuri_by.

yury_by Member of FORUMHOUSE

Because the crisis does not think to end, then I thought about how to arrange a storm sewer to remove rainwater from the house. I want to solve the problem, and save money, and do everything efficiently.

After thinking, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes(they cost 2 times cheaper than the "red" sewer ones), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yuri_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe could break in winter if water gets between the two layers.

Eventually yuri_by decided to take the budget "gray" pipe, which is used in the arrangement internal sewerage. Although he had fears that the pipes, which do not have such rigidity as the "red ones", will break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yuri_by

If you step on the "gray" pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. Only the lawn is laid and there are pedestrian loads. Having laid the pipe in a trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they keep their shape, and the storm drain works.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photos.

Digging a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

Paint the manhole cover.

We make a tie-in into the well with a drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, maintaining a track slope of 1 cm per 1 running meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating up, it can be pressed with a brick or board.

We put the cover, mount the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget shower.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland

Not everyone gets the “right” sites. In SNT or in new cuts, the land can be very swampy, or the developer has a peat bog. Build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not an easy one summer cottage- both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - to sell / exchange the site or to drain and bring the site in order.

In order not to engage in various costly alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options drainage and drainage of the territory at the base car tires. This option allows you to save the family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin FORUMHOUSE member

Peat soil is characterized high level ground water. In my area, the water is almost flush with the surface, and after the rain does not go into the ground. To divert the top water, it must be thrown out of the site. I did not spend money on the purchase special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is mounted as follows - a ditch is dug, tires are laid in it, tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth does not fall inside from above. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with "unnecessary" pieces of slate in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the "cover" pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also more “heavy” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a plot in SNT, with a total area of 8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The GWL is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the country house stands for a long time, the site actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the very heat in summer. Drive drainage ditches no one wants to be in order, so everyone swims. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with the neighbors. It is necessary to raise your site and find a way to put all the "unnecessary" water from the site.

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Nature never divides people into those who are ready for various phenomena, and those who have not yet prepared. She simply demonstrates her abilities: summer rains, autumn thunderstorms, spring floods and winter snows. To protect against natural phenomena, a storm sewer was invented, which allows you to remove all precipitation from the site.

Many people mistakenly believe that storm water is limited to a few pipes arranged on the edge of the roof of a building. This is not so, although gutters are also part of the design. About how the storm drain is arranged, what it is, and how to make a storm sewer with your own hands and will be discussed in this article.

Construction of storm sewers around the house

There is a division into the main components that make up the stormwater, and additional ones that provide maximum efficiency system and allowing it to fully perform all functions.

The basic set of storm sewer elements includes the following:

drainpipes with funnels and gutters: these are the names of the part of the structure that collects liquid from the roof of the building;
point water collectors and storm water inlets;
pipelines providing transportation of collected water to the collector;
a tray system connected to a linear drainage system and transferring the collected water to the pipeline (read also: "").

Additional stormwater details:

special plugs that block the movement of water into reverse side;
siphons that do not allow to spread bad smell from the sewerage collector;
sand traps.

Before you make a storm drain, you need to stock up on tools and materials. A shovel and a drill will be enough to complete the work. With materials, everything is more complicated, but not much: you need to add to the list of the above details bituminous mastic and fasteners for pipes.

The principle of operation of storm water in a private house

To create a high-quality storm sewer, you need to figure out how concrete, plastic or cast-iron storm drains work. The basic principle: all drains are collected in one channel and sent to a common collector. Each structural element must be connected to the overall system.

Proper stormwater drainage on the site works like this: first, precipitation is collected from the roof of the building and sent to the drains, then they move by gravity to the storm water inlet, and from there all the water moves through the pipes to the collector.

An important part of the design is linear drainage. To equip it, it is necessary to install trays at ground level where water will be collected in the maximum volume (read: ""). Each storm tray is connected to the system and drains water further through it, but there are also schemes that allow water to be drained not underground through a pipeline, but on the earth's surface.

Do-it-yourself spot storm water installation

In order for the stormwater around the house to work correctly, it is necessary to carefully monitor the sequence and quality of actions during its arrangement. Before creating a structure, it is worth performing a stormwater calculation. The first step is to install funnels, which are most often called storm water inlets. Funnels should be installed where the water collected by the drain located on the roof of the building flows. To install storm water inlets, it is necessary to prepare small recesses.

Such a drainage system provides that storm pipes and funnels must be connected, so the latter are equipped with special holes. Through them, with the help of a knee, a pipe is installed, directed underground, and as a result, it reaches a level where the soil does not freeze in cold weather. At this depth, the pipe is leveled, for which the elbow is again used, and is installed in a horizontal position, apart from a slight slope necessary for the movement of fluid by gravity.

From the pipe, water enters the collector, which is a special reservoir that provides temporary storage of storm drains (read also: ""). After some time, the collected liquid will be sent to the ground or pumped to the nearest reservoir. The upper part of the collector must be equipped with a manhole with a manhole. The diameter of the well is usually in the range of about one meter. In the absence of a manhole, access to the interior of the storm drain and its cleaning will not be possible.

In addition to spot stormwater drainage, there is a design that works due to trays with gratings (more details: ""). This system is called a linear storm sewer. The trays are mounted directly on the ground, and the water that the funnels could not collect gets into them. The gutters of the structure can have different depths and sizes. Above the gutters, it is worth installing cast-iron storm grates to prevent various debris from entering the system. At the junction of the trays and pipelines, it is necessary to install sand traps, which will to a large extent protect the system from various debris. In front of the house, you can install special concrete storm drains with a large width, which prevent the formation of puddles right next to entry threshold.

Combination of drainage and storm sewers

There are some recommendations that allow you to properly install drainage and storm water. Drainage and storm systems should not be connected due to the high load that can occur after heavy rain. Drainage should be installed at a great depth below the freezing level of the soil (more details: ""). The drainage trench must be backfilled with a layer of gravel and crushed stone so that the pipeline can withstand the load exerted by groundwater and melt water.

When laying the drainage, a certain slope of about 2% must be observed. Drainage flows must be discharged into a ditch or the nearest body of water. Stormwater in a private house is usually located on top drainage systems s, that is, the last one is installed first. In any case, both systems must be at a sufficient depth so that their elements do not freeze through during the cold season.

There are a few tips that will simplify the installation of stormwater. The number of earthworks can be reduced by laying the drainage and storm system in one trench (without combining them at the same time). The need for separate laying of systems was mentioned above: this was done to prevent overloading the structure during floods or downpours.

The drainage trench must be deep enough to take into account the depth of soil freezing. In addition, it is important to take into account the thickness of the sand or gravel layer when arranging the trench. The slope of the drainage trench is usually about 2 degrees.

Laying pipes for storm sewers must also be carried out at a sufficient depth, and when arranging two systems in one trench, this nuance must be taken into account. All pipelines that transport water must eventually be connected to a collector that will provide temporary storage and further diversion of water to the reservoir.

When the storm drain around the house is built, it is imperative to test it. To do this, you need to fill each funnel with at least a bucket of water and watch how the water passes through the system to make sure that it reaches the final destination.

Conclusion

The device of storm water around the house is not difficult, it can be created even in the absence of deep knowledge in construction. It is enough to strictly follow the algorithm for the construction of the system, design it with high quality and carefully carry out all the work. As a result of all these actions, storm sewers will ensure the drainage of water from the territory of the site, and the objects located on it will not be in danger of flooding, and it will be much easier for the residents of the house to move around the territory that is not flooded with numerous puddles.

Any a private house constantly exposed to atmospheric precipitation. If, in addition, the soil on the site has clay impurities, then constantly muddy soil and puddles standing in the yard will not add aesthetics to your home. Storm sewers in a private house can cope with the problem of rainwater drainage. It is quite possible to build it yourself, at the beginning of building a house. Or lay it purposefully, near an already built house, if such work has not been carried out in due time.

The main purpose of stormwater in a private house is the collection and subsequent diversion of melt and rainwater from the house and from the site to special devices catchment, water bodies, deep drainage system, off-site or general sewer system. In addition to collecting, a well-mounted storm drain in a private house with its own hands is able to purify the water that has got into it from impurities and sand. The water leaving the system is clean enough and does not pollute the surrounding areas.

Being a device for surface drainage, the storm drain protects the buildings standing on the site from movement and destruction. If the soil on the site is constantly wet, then the impact on the foundation of multidirectional skew vectors will affect its strength. As a result of this, subsidence, tilting of the house, and the appearance of cracks on its walls are possible.

Main components of the system

The device of a storm sewer in a private house assumes the presence of the following elements in its composition:

located on the surface or channels closed type located underground. Installed taking into account the slope towards the water collectors. Through them, water enters the water collectors or is discharged directly outside the site.
storm water inlets. They are designed to collect water flowing from the roofs of buildings. The most suitable places for their installation are under downpipes. Rain inlets are made of plastic or polymer concrete in the form of rectangular containers of various sizes and are equipped with a basket for collecting various debris that enters with water. From them, water passes through a system of channels into water reservoirs;
door pallets;
manholes. They are designed for routine inspections and cleaning of channels and pipelines in case of clogging. As a rule, they are equipped at the junctions of the channels and at their intersections, since it is in these places that the risk of clogging of the channels is most likely;
are used to collect solid particles in the water entering through the channels. Installed on surface storm drains;
collector well designed to collect and then filter water into the soil.

Types of storm sewers

Stormwater in a private house can be linear, spot, and also mixed. Each of these types differs in its structure and purpose.

Linear (open type) sewerage

This system is simple to manufacture and quite effective. It is a network of surface metal, concrete or. Water enters these channels through downpipes, heading to the general sewer or special tanks. From above, the gutters are covered with gratings that protect them from debris, and also perform decorative functions. Separate gutters are joined together with a sealant in order to prevent the penetration of water between the joints.

Read also: and its characteristics.

Such a storm sewer in the country or in country house has a greater coverage, it collects water from paths, sidewalks, various sites, and not just from roofs.

The photo shows an example of a storm sewer open type from drainage trays with gratings

Tip: When laying an open-type storm sewer with your own hands, the slope of all gutters must be taken into account. Otherwise, despite the presence of surface channels, water will not drain through them, but will cover the entire area, not having time to go into the water collectors.

Point (closed type) sewerage

If the choice fell on a storm sewer scheme in a private house of a point type, then all water intake pipelines should be located underground. Water flowing down the pipes from the roofs enters the storm water inlets closed by gratings, and from them into underground channels. Through them, water is diverted to the places intended for it or simply drains outside the boundaries of the site.

Advice: Since the laying of underground communications presents design and construction difficulties, its arrangement should be carried out only at the stages of developing projects for the house itself. Later it will be almost impossible to do such work.

Mixed sewer

This type of sewage is resorted to in cases where it is necessary to save on labor or financial costs. This system can include both open-type elements and components of a point sewer system.

Volume, Depth and Slope Calculation

If you want your house and site to be reliably protected from flooding, silting and dirty rainwater flows, it is necessary to correctly calculate and lay down storm sewers in the project. The main calculation of storm sewers is to ensure that all water entering the territory equipped with storm drains leaves without a trace in the places allotted to it and is regulated by SNiP 2.04.03-85.

Channeling Depth Calculation

If the cross section of underground pipelines does not exceed 0.5 m, then they are buried to a level of 30 cm. large diameters channels, the depth of the storm sewer in a private house increases up to 70 cm.

If it has already been laid on the site, then the storm sewer in a private house is located above this system.

Tip: It is recommended that all elements be buried to the level of soil freezing, but in practice they can be located closer to the surface, providing them with insulation by backfilling a layer of crushed stone and laying geotextiles. This will reduce the cost and labor intensity of earthworks.

Calculation of the volume of wastewater discharged from the site

To calculate the volume of waste, you must be guided by the following formula: Q=q20 x F x ¥, where:

Q - the volume that must be diverted from the site;
q20 is the amount of precipitation. These data can be obtained from the weather service or taken from the same SNiP 2.04.03-85;
F is the area from which water will be discharged. With a point system, the projection of the roof area onto a horizontal plane is taken. In the case of linear system equipment, all areas involved in drainage are taken into account;
¥ is a coefficient that takes into account the coating material that the site is equipped with or the house is covered with:

- 0.4 - crushed stone or gravel;

- 0.85 - concrete;

- 0.95 - asphalt;

- 1 - roof.

Calculation of the required channel slope

A properly selected slope guarantees the free flow of water through pipelines under the influence of physical laws. The required slope of the storm sewer is determined depending on the diameter of the pipes used. If the pipes have a diameter of 20 cm, then a factor of 0.007 is taken into account. That is, 7 mm per linear meter of pipe. With a diameter of 15 cm, the coefficient will be 0.008.

The slope of the channels in an open system ranges from 0.003-0.005 (this is 3-5 mm). But the pipes connected to storm water inlets and storm wells should have a slope of 2 cm per linear meter.

Storm drain installation

Before starting work, you need to make sure that the house is equipped with water collection and drainage systems (downpipes, risers and gutters).

Have you thought about how the storm sewer is arranged in a private house on the site? Let us consider in more detail the device and installation of a storm drain for a yard with drainage, as well as the main elements of the system and the procedure. Everything in order in this article.

Rain or melt water can bring a lot of trouble to the owners of private houses or summer cottages. Puddles, muddy ground, dampness in basements- it's far from full list problems caused sewage. The solution to the problem is storm sewerage in a private house. It provides the removal of excess moisture in pre-designated areas. The design of the system is not fundamentally difficult. Removing drains can be done by hand. Let's consider the question more carefully.

Purpose, system features

Storm sewer (or simply stormwater) is a system for removing rain or melt water. It is a complex of drainage trays or pipelines through which effluents are directed to a discharge point. The fundamental difference from household or industrial systems is the lack of drain holes and the need to organize water collection. In addition, the frequency of stormwater operation depends on weather conditions. In the warm season, the system can stand idle for months. With the onset of cold weather, the work of storm sewers stops.

A storm sewer device is a reliable way to protect the site and the foundation of the house from erosion. Proper laying of drainage channels eliminates the formation of puddles in the yard, provides an organized collection, cleaning and removal of excess water. Reservoirs, ravines or ground infiltration techniques are used as discharge points.

Storm sewer device

The device of a storm sewer in a private house differs markedly from systems of a domestic or industrial type. No debris or solid particles are allowed here. Effluent enters the pipelines only after being filtered. Sand settles in receiving wells and is periodically cleaned from there as it is filled. This important point because the system only functions when it rains. If foreign objects are inside the pipes, they quickly form complex blockages.

There are two types of storm systems:

open, represented by a network of trays through which excess water is drained;
closed. It is a network of underground pipelines and wells.

As a rule, storm sewers on the site of a country or private house is a mixed system. It consists of an open area connected to an underground network. This design reduces costs and labor. Care and cleaning of drainage trays does not require much effort and is completed within a short time. The closed part is used only to bring wastewater to the collector or drainage wells.

The main objects of protection are the foundation and the basement. To cut off the drains along the perimeter of the blind area, it is necessary to make a closed drainage circuit from open-type trays. It is connected to the receiving elements of the roof drainage system (storm water inlets). Drains fall into open gutters, from where they are directed to collectors. If the composition of the soil allows, water is absorbed from the wells into the soil and is not diverted anywhere else. This scheme is convenient, but in practice it is not always possible. Moisture absorption is a slow process; during a heavy rainfall, the collector will quickly overflow, and runoff will spill over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe site. In such situations, either choose a container that corresponds to the maximum volume of effluents, or use a stormwater drainage scheme for the yard with a drain to the sewer. If the soil on the site is clayey and does not allow water to be absorbed, underground pipelines are laid with connection to the main branch of the storm sewer.

The main components of the drainage system

As part of the storm sewer in the country or in a private house, the following elements are used:

storm water inlets. Installed under drainpipes;
open gutters. They are laid around the perimeter of the house close to the outer edge of the blind area. In addition, they can be used to supply wastewater to the collector;
closed pipelines immersed in the ground. They retain the possibility of using the soil for planting plants, landscaping the site;
door trays. These are containers covered with bars. Installation in front of the entrance eliminates the possibility of puddle formation;
viewing wells. Used for cleaning, revision or other repair work;
sand traps. These are containers that act as sedimentation tanks for suspended particles. The heavy fraction settles to the bottom and is subsequently removed from the tank. Purified water is discharged through the overflow;
collector well. They are the final collection points for effluent to be filtered into the soil.

Stormwater is a gravity system. All elements are installed under a certain slope. There are no strict requirements regarding the depth of immersion of pipelines, since there is no rain in the cold season, and in summer the water will not freeze. This somewhat simplifies the installation of storm sewers, reducing the amount of earthwork. The minimum immersion depth for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm is 300 mm. With an increase in the cross-section of pipelines, the laying level also increases, reaching 700 mm.

Installation procedure

Unlike outdoor elements, the installation of closed-type storm sewers is carried out only at the construction stage. Large volumes of earthworks in a landscaped area are extremely rare. If the area of the serviced area is small, it is easier to run a network of external channels to the collector, or to bring them outside to the point of discharge.

Consider how a storm sewer is created in a private house with your own hands. Procedure:

Preparation. The scheme of laying channels, the location of wells and collectors is determined. The volume of tanks and the cross section of pipes are calculated;

markup. On the territory of the site, the points of placement of the collector, manholes are marked, the axes of trenches for trays or underground pipes are determined;
excavation. According to the marking, trenches are dug, recesses are made for containers and reservoirs;
immersion and installation of containers. The collector, wells and other large elements of the system are placed in nests, oriented along the axes of the pipes and fixed in position;
installation of storm sewer pipes. The network is laid with a given slope. All actions must be constantly checked against the diagram drawn up during preparatory phase. Pipe installation starts from storm water inlets (or intermediate collectors), and is completed by connecting to the main tank;
backfilling pipes with a layer of gravel. It is used as a heater, keeping more high temperature. This prevents the remaining water, if any, from freezing. Such technology will not be able to ensure the safety of filled pipes, but this method is quite suitable for residual water;
backfilling of trenches and sinuses of system elements. All recesses are filled with excavated soil. The surface is compacted to an average state. It is important to maintain the strength of the top layer of soil, but not damage the pipes from excessive load from above.

All work is carried out in parallel with the construction of the house, so that later earthworks do not have to be done again. This is dangerous for the foundation, creating the possibility of violating the heat and waterproofing of the base.

Puddles that appear after rain are a fairly common occurrence, but few people think that it is quite dangerous for owners of private houses, as it can lead to flooding of the building and the destruction of its supports.

To avoid unpleasant consequences, experts recommend equipping storm sewers. How to do this will be discussed in this article.

Features and purpose

Storm or, as it is often called, rainwater drainage is a system water pipes, as well as filters and various devices used to effectively remove excess moisture from adjoining territory. This is the main task of stormwater drainage, however, the set of functions for drainage is not limited to:

with the help of a storm system, you can organize the watering of the garden and vegetable garden on personal plot, the positive effect of melt water on the growth and development of plants is known to every summer resident;
increasing the durability of the building and improving the strength and strength of its supports - this is due to the fact that rainwater drainage eliminates excessive flooding of the foundation, and in addition, prevents the development of fungus and mold;
high-quality filtration of water and its purification from sand and other types of impurities;
integrity maintenance paving slabs And asphalt pavement, which are often destroyed under the influence of beating jets of water;
minimizing the risk of water leaking into the basement;
complete exclusion of the formation of puddles and dirt in the area after rain.

Storm sewer components

The device of rain sewerage in a private house and in the country house assumes the presence in its structure of some constituent elements.

Well

In previous years, it was believed that it must certainly be large, but modern industry offers wells of various sizes, the choice of which is determined by the dimensions of the roof, the size of the site and the average rainfall in a particular region. As a rule, wells are made of concrete rings, and bottom ring must be equipped with a bottom - this is precisely what distinguishes simple wells from storm ones.

Plastic manholes can also be used to create an efficient rainwater drainage system. They are buried in required depth, mounted on a concrete pad and chained with strong chains to avoid floating.

Plastic containers are good because they are completely sealed, unlike structures assembled from rings.

Hatch over the well

Hatches can be made from various materials- rubber, plastic or metal, the choice here depends only on the personal preferences of the homeowner. Regardless of which composition is used, the well must be dug in such a way that the upper edge of its cover is 15-20 cm below the ground surface.

Under the installation of the hatch, a brick neck is often laid out, this allows you to plant a lawn or flowers on top in such a way that the site will not stand out from the rest of the plantings.

However, many people buy a ready-made cover with a hatch. In this case, the soil is covered with a thinner layer - only 4-5 cm, however, the lawn will differ in density from other areas, drawing attention to what is located under it. Most often hatches are issued in black color. However, red and yellow variants can also be found on sale.

Point storm water inlets

These are small-sized tanks that are fixed in places of the greatest accumulation of precipitation, for example, under drainpipes and in the lowest parts of the yard. They are made of concrete or plastic, and the former are often used to equip deep-type storm sewers. In this case, they are mounted on top of each other, achieving the required height. However, more recently, built-on plastic storm water inlets have appeared on sale.

Sand traps

These are devices that are used to accumulate settling sand and other heavy inclusions. Most often they are made of plastic, they are characterized by low cost, but at the same time they exhibit exceptionally high performance characteristics. Typically, sand traps are mounted at a certain distance from each other.

Such devices need periodic cleaning, which is much easier and faster than cleaning the entire drainage system.

Lattices

Lattices are installed so that the water leaves as completely as possible. There are the following grid options:

cast iron- reliable and durable products, but the paint on them lasts no more than 3 years, significantly reducing the overall aesthetics of the structure;
steel- a cheap option, but the lowest quality - steel is prone to corrosion, so even after 1-2 years such gratings begin to rust;
aluminum- it is not pure metal that is used here, but its alloys, such options are most preferable, since they are distinguished by their strength and attractive design, but their cost is quite high.

Pipes

Not a single storm drain is complete without pipes, as a rule, red polyethylene products are used. They have smooth walls, which significantly improves their throughput. However, you can stop at cast iron or asbestos options, they can also work smoothly for a long time, providing an effective drain.

The diameter of the pipes largely depends on the overall branching of the system, but it must be borne in mind that it should not be less than 15 cm, it is optimal if the diameter is larger.

Revision wells

These are small-sized wells made of plastic or concrete, they are installed in cases where the pipeline has quite great length or multiple branches. They are used to clean pipes in case blockages occur.

It should be noted that not every rainwater sewer necessarily contains all these components, but they can be used to build an effective system of any level of complexity.

Types of storm sewers

There are several main types of storm sewers installed in private homes.

open

This is a fairly simple system that can be equipped even on your own. It consists of a network of surface gutters into which water enters through drainpipes, and from there it enters special tanks or a public sewer.

Gutters are made of metal, plastic or concrete, they are covered with gratings on top, which protect them from large debris, and in addition, perform a decorative function.

Such a system in a private house can have a fairly large coverage, it collects excess moisture from the sidewalks, garden paths and other types of sites.

Closed

This type of stormwater is also called point, in which case all water intakes are located underground. The mechanism of their action is simple: water, flowing down pipes from roofs, enters special storm water inlets, and already through them moves into underground channels, from where it is discharged outside the site.

mixed

This system involves the simultaneous use of open and closed elements, this method is used when it is necessary to build an efficient drain system on a limited budget.

Drainage types

Quite often, in cottages and private houses, several options for water disposal are equipped at once: sewer, drainage and storm water. As a rule, they are located close to each other around the site and run in parallel.

Quite often, the owners of the site have a natural desire to save money and combine storm water with elements of other types of drainage, for example, use a ready-made well. However, this should not be done, because during heavy rain the liquid enters the well rather quickly, average speed flow is 10 cubic meters per hour.

In this case, the well may overflow, and if it is combined with a sewer, then water will begin to flow into the sewer pipes. In this case, of course, she will not be able to rise above the ground level, however, you will not be able to lower anything either, since everything will be in the plumbing. In addition, after lowering the water level, large and small debris will remain inside the system, which can significantly worsen efficient work the entire stock system, and it will have to be cleaned regularly, you see, not the most pleasant experience.

The situation is much worse if the discharges go into drainage well. If, during a prolonged downpour, moisture enters under with great pressure into the drainage system, then as the pipes fill up, it simply falls out under the foundation and begins to wash it away. It is not worth talking about the consequences, there are other troubles, which include silting of the drainage pipeline.

It is impossible to clean such pipes, they must be completely changed.

The conclusion can be made very simple: the stormwater in the house should have its own well, and quite roomy. However, if there is access to a pond, lake or river near the site, then the arrangement of the well can be neglected.

Design and preparation

When it comes to the drainage system, it is very important to first draw up a drawing, plans and design diagrams, otherwise it will just be “money down the drain”. If the system does not work effectively, then it is not worth taking on its arrangement, and if the storm water is too powerful, then it will “eat” too much money.

In order to make calculations as accurately as possible and draw up an effective project, the following data are required:

the average amount of precipitation in a given area (they can be found in SNiP 2.04.03-85);
periodicity of precipitation;
the size of the snow cover;
runoff area;
roof area;
physical and mechanical parameters of the soil;
location of underground utilities;
calculated wastewater volumes.

Q- this is the amount of moisture that the system must remove;

q20- intensity of precipitation (it is different for each locality);

F- the surface area from which it is planned to remove water;

TO- correction factor, which depends on the material of the site coating, it is:

for crushed stone - 0.4;
for concreted areas 0 0.85;
for asphalt - 0.95;
for roofs - 1.0.

The resulting value is correlated with SNiPs and the diameter of the pipeline, which is necessary for optimal drainage, is determined.

Trays and pipes are dug in at a depth at which they are usually carried out in each locality, their exact value can be found in construction companies or from neighbors who have already equipped a storm drain on their site. As a rule, in middle lane In Russia, the laying depth is 0.3 meters if the diameter of the pipeline does not exceed 50 cm. Trays and pipes bigger size buried to a depth of 70 cm.

Often the high cost of excavation leads to the fact that customers are asked not to go too far into the ground - and in general this is quite justified, since there is no point in closing the pipes too far. There is no reason to mount collectors and observation tanks below the level of seasonal freezing, as required by the existing GOSTs. They can be placed higher, but pre-insulated insulating material such as geotextiles.

Reducing the level of penetration quite significantly reduces the cost of installation work.

But the requirements governing minimum slope stormwater, should not be neglected. GOST establishes the following standards:

for pipes with a diameter of 15 cm, the angle of inclination should be 0.008 mm / m;
for pipes with a cross section of 20 cm - 0.007 mm / m.

The angle of inclination may vary depending on the characteristics of the site. So, at the point of connection of the pipe to the storm water inlet, it is necessary to increase the flow rate of self-flowing water, therefore, the maximum allowable angle of 0.02 mm / m should be formed.

But in front of the sand traps, the flow velocity should, on the contrary, decrease, otherwise the suspended particles will not be able to settle, so the angle of inclination should be minimal.

Construction and installation

The storm drainage system is equipped according to its own technology, its laying is in many ways similar to the principle of conventional sewer pipelines, however, if there are no drains in the house, then installation should begin with them.

Roof construction

In the roof slabs, it is necessary to make special holes that will be used for storm water inlets. After all devices are installed and fixed to the bituminous mastic, the joints and junctions should be treated with a sealant. Next, sewers and risers are installed, which are fixed to the facade of a private house with clamps.

If an open system is being built, then trays should be installed, and if the future stormwater is spot, then outlet pipes will need to be installed.

Ground part

In accordance with the planned plans, which are drawn up taking into account all the existing angles of inclination of the terrain and the depth of the canals adopted in each particular region, it is necessary to dig a trench. Consider the sequence of actions.

The bottom of the dug trench must be carefully tamped, all the stones that were encountered during excavation should be removed, and the holes formed after them should be covered with soil.
The bottom of the trench is covered with sand, as a rule, the thickness of the sand cushion is approximately 20 cm.
A pit is dug for the installation of a collector well. For the collector itself, you can purchase a ready-made plastic container, but you can also build it yourself - for this you need to install the formwork and fill it with a concrete solution.
In the ditches, compacted and reinforced with sand cushions, pipes are attached, which are connected to each other using fittings.
Inspection wells must be included in stormwater branches with a total length of more than 10 meters, and sand traps are mounted at the junction of the receivers and the pipeline. All these devices must be connected in a common circuit, and the joints must be sealed without fail.
Before the final backfilling of the trench, it is necessary to test the system for strength, for this, water is poured into the water intake, if the pipes leak, then it is necessary to identify and eliminate the leak.
If no weak points are found in the pipeline, then it is necessary to carefully fill the trench with soil, and equip all gutters and trays with cast-iron and plastic gratings.

Installation open system, in general, does not pose any problems, since the water trays can be installed easier and faster. They are sold as independent elements, which are quite simply assembled into a single chain using a thin nylon cord that forms the required drain angle.

Timely arrangement of storm sewers will significantly extend the life of building structures, eliminate the occurrence of dirt and slush and prevent rotting of plant roots.

The simplest storm drain can be easily equipped by the owner of the site without the use of third-party specialists, but even when contacting professionals, it does not hurt to get acquainted with the features of the sewer and the specifics of its device, since as you use it, the owner will periodically have to repair and clean the system.

For more information on how to install storm sewers, see the following video.