Soil preparation for planting: types and features. Spring preparation of beds for high yields

Despite the seeming simplicity, growing carrots on garden plot- a process that is very responsible and requires a certain amount of knowledge, skills and abilities. Of particular importance is the preparation of beds for carrots in the spring. Experienced gardeners start planting carrots in mid-April or early May (depending on the region). The optimal period is when the daytime air temperature ceases to fall below + 10-12 degrees, and at night - below +5 degrees. On the beds sown at this time, the crop will ripen in July.

What should be the soil

Preparing a bed for carrots in spring

Before planting a crop, you should understand what kind of soil carrots love. Practice shows that each carrot variety, without exception, to such a condition as soil, is very demanding. Firstly, the earth should not contain anything superfluous: no pebbles, no roots, no solid debris. Under no circumstances should the soil be acidified. The acidity index should not go beyond the normal range. If the earth is clayey, or planting is carried out in black soil, it is recommended to add sand to the composition of the soil for carrots at the rate of 1 kilogram per 1 square meter beds. If the soil is too sandy, humus, manure or potato skins will come to the rescue. Nevertheless, it is the sandy soil for carrots that is considered to be more preferable. This is due to the high breathability of sand and its unique ability to absorb moisture.

Important! Carrots grow more even if they grow in loose soil. In hard ground, crooked and deformed root crops often ripen.

When choosing soil for carrots, you should pay attention, first of all, to sunny areas. No crop variety will give an extensive harvest if planted in the shade. The following are also expressly excluded:

• soil with a high dryness index;
• inclined areas;
• areas overgrown with weeds.

Generally speaking, the optimal soil for carrots in open ground should perfectly pass oxygen and moisture, do not contain weeds and remnants of the root system of other plants and be saturated with nutrients.

How to prepare a garden

After choosing the soil, it's time to find the answer to the question of how to properly prepare a bed for carrots in the spring. The process of preparing the soil for planting carrots begins with a mandatory check of the site for its ability to pass moisture. To do this, you need to do the following: pour about 8 liters of water onto the soil that has not yet been dug up for carrots measuring 50x70 centimeters. If an hour after watering spots are visible on the surface, then the soil is unsatisfactory (too dry and with a high acidity index), and the carrot will most likely not take root in it. But if there is no spot, and the state of the earth is such that from it without extra effort you can make a lump, then everything is in order, and you can, without hesitation, start sowing the crop.

Having figured out what kind of land carrots love, it's time to start spring work in the open field. It is most expedient to do this just half a month before the start of planting work. First you need to remove all the weeds from the garden and leave it to "rest" for a couple of weeks. Then the site will need to be dug up two, and even better three times, while saturating it with useful substances. Pebbles in the process of digging should be removed, and earthen clods should be broken.

If the soil is poor enough, it requires fertilizing with humus and careful additional digging, despite the fact that experts recommend fertilizing with organic fertilizers in autumn period

Advice. With each application of fertilizer, the earth must be dug up. This is necessary in order to useful material and trace elements were at a depth of at least 15 centimeters. Otherwise, they can burn the root system of plants.

Fertilizing the soil

The main answer to the question, what kind of soil is needed for successful cultivation carrots, refers us to an indicator of fertility. Accordingly, the application of fertilizers to the soil is one of the necessary steps towards obtaining good harvest.

As already mentioned, organic matter is best applied in the autumn, after harvest. But mineral fertilizers in the spring will be as appropriate as possible. Correct term top dressing - two weeks before planting seeds in the garden. At the same time, it is very important that the technology for preparing the fertilizer composition is observed (as a rule, all necessary instructions available on the factory packaging of the fertilizer).

If crops are grown in small volumes for personal use, it is quite acceptable to limit yourself to organic. In this case, ordinary humus or manure is suitable.

In the spring, it is allowed to treat the soil with fertilizers based on nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. All of the above is chemistry, but it has a positive effect on the growth of carrots. If the soil is acidic, it must be further treated with any alkaline component, such as lime. After such treatment, the acidity of the soil quickly normalizes. As with growing onions, carrots should not be overdone with manure. Otherwise, you can forget about the garden with carrots, at least for a couple of years.

How to land

Usually the width of the beds is made from 90 to 100 cm, and the height - from 15 to 20 cm.

Everyone who has grown onions at least once will also cope with planting carrots without problems. In addition, making a bed for carrots is not particularly difficult. The most important thing to do is to calculate right size and prepare the ground for carrots in advance.

Usually, the width of the beds is made from 90 to 100 cm, and the height is from 15 to 20 cm. If they are close at the landing site ground water, the height of the beds is strongly recommended to be increased to 35 centimeters (to its lower border). The length can be completely arbitrary, it all depends on the wishes and needs of the gardener, as well as the size of the plot. You will definitely need to make a wooden side, which will prevent water from running off and blurring the beds during irrigation.

To place the seeds, it is necessary to form special grooves, the depth of which will not exceed three centimeters. Be sure to observe a gap of 20 centimeters between them. As for the distance between root crops, it can vary from two to four centimeters.

Important! The seed furrow should never be too shallow or too deep. In the first case, it is highly likely that the seeds will be blown away by a gust of wind, and in the second, that they simply will not be able to break through the thickness of the earth to the surface.

Ideally, you should sow the seeds in such a way that later you do not have to deal with thinning. It is quite difficult to achieve this, but you should still try. Indeed, otherwise, the smell of tops when pulling out a root crop from the ground will inevitably attract the attention of such a harmful insect as a carrot fly.

Immediately before sowing carrot seeds, each groove must be thoroughly moistened. Because the planting material carrot is very light, often mixed with sand for convenience. In those places where the seeds are too thick, experts recommend spreading the contents of the groove with a brush.

After planting the seeds is completed, sprinkle the groove with mulch:

• humus;
• biohumus;
• compost;
• coconut substrate.

After the sprouts hatch through the mulch, it must be removed, and the seedlings should be watered.

Important! Until seedlings appear, it is not recommended to water the sowing site in order to avoid blurring the seeds.

Carrot growth is quite slow, in addition, as already mentioned, it does not like excess moisture. If you organize beds-ridges, raising the site for planting by 30-35 centimeters, the problem can be solved. If the soil dries well, simple grooves are sufficient.

Before planting, the seeds should be soaked, and after planting and abundant watering, cover plastic wrap. This step is necessary in order to save the heat and moisture necessary for seed germination in the soil. If all manipulations are performed correctly, the first shoots will appear in less than a week. It is very important not to forget to remove the film after the very first shoots appear.

Planting in narrow beds

Planting in narrow beds

IN last years Among gardeners, the method of planting carrots in narrow beds, also known as the Jacob Mittlider method, is very popular. Such beds have a significant difference from the standard options. They are characterized by high side walls and relatively wide aisles. The task of narrow and high beds is to protect the sown carrots from weeds and winds in the most reliable way. In addition, purely visually, such a bed looks just perfect.

To equip a narrow bed you will need:

• two containers that will be used for mixing fertilizers;
• narrow rake (no more than 30 centimeters wide in the area of ​​​​the working part);
• wooden pegs;
• hoe;
• shovel;
• wooden planks for making boards.

The algorithm of actions in this case will be approximately as follows:

1. Mark the beds and use pegs to mark their boundaries. The optimal width of the beds will be no more than 45-50 centimeters, the length can be any (usually gardeners choose in the range from 3 to 9 meters);
2. Make wide enough (about 1 meter) passages between the beds;
3. Pin wooden boards around the perimeter. The height of the resulting sides should be 10 centimeters, and the width - 5 centimeters;
4. Fill the paths between the beds with gravel or carefully compact in such a way as to reduce the likelihood of weed growth and the appearance of moles to zero.

Important! It will be best to place a narrow bed in the direction from the east side to the west. This will enable carrots to constantly receive required amount sunlight.

Proper use of narrow beds allows you to get much bigger harvest(approximately double) than when using standard landing methods.

Secrets of experienced gardeners

Properly prepare the soil, build a garden bed and eventually grow excellent harvest carrots will help the advice of experienced gardeners who have been cultivating this crop for several years and have managed to achieve some success in this field. Consider the most interesting recommendations in details:

1. If you grow carrots after cucumbers, you will need to add at least one and a half kilograms of cow manure and 5 kilograms of crushed corn leaves for every square meter of beds. When growing carrots on black soil, it will be necessary to add potato husks and river sand to the indicated one - 1 kilogram per square meter of planting;
2. It is important to track and remember how previous crops grew in the selected area. So, for example, if cabbage grew there before carrots, and the harvest did not please, the likelihood that a similar story would happen with carrots is quite high. Abundant top dressing with mineral and organic fertilizers will help correct the situation;
3. If the tomatoes grown earlier on the plot for carrots turned black during the growth process, planting carrot seeds does not make sense. It is better to sow the area with parsley or beets;
4. To get rid of carrot fly it will be useful to plant carrots as early as possible and in the same bed with onions. Such a move would prove beneficial to both cultures;
5. For even distribution of seeds, it is more efficient to mix not with sand, but with a clover. If the latter add some mineral fertilizers, the benefits (and, accordingly, germination) will be much higher. It is most convenient to place such a mixture in the grooves using a confectionery syringe;
6. Too wet soil will promote the occurrence of carrot diseases. Therefore, stagnant water on the site should be avoided by all means;
7. If the farm has enough a large number of compost and physical strength, you can prepare beds for carrots in a fundamentally different way: a trench is dug at least 30 centimeters deep, filled with compost mixed with fine river sand, and seeds are poured into this fertilized soil.

Despite the fact that carrots are an integral part of the daily diet of a large number of our compatriots, growing them with your own hands is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. But if you prepare the garden bed properly, avoid mistakes when sowing seeds and provide the crop with proper care, a decent harvest will not keep you waiting.

Potatoes are usually commercially grown using industrial methods using mineral fertilizers and pesticides. Real gardeners will never purchase such a product, but will try and grow excellent carrots in their own garden plot. If you strictly follow the recommendations given, there should be no problems with cultivating the culture.

Video

Experienced gardeners grow most crops through seedlings. Its quality, and therefore future harvest significantly depend on the soil in which the seeds will lie. If you intend to get excellent yields from your site, find out what the land for seedlings should be like and how to cook it yourself from various components. Understand the intricacies of soil mixtures, how to prepare them for sowing, and your green pets will grow strong, persistent, healthy.

The most correct nutrient soil for seedlings is one that fully meets the needs of a particular crop. One plant needs fertile, moist soil, for another it is a real disaster - give it poor, dry land. Some specimens like acid earth, and most react negatively to increased acidity. In a word, the dreams of gardeners-gardeners about a universal soil for seedlings are untenable.

Young seedlings need best soil

However, there are some basic requirements for the potting soil in which you plan to sow the seeds. Do-it-yourself soil for seedlings should be:

• Moderately fertile, containing the substances necessary for nutrition and beneficial microflora.
• Balanced in composition of minerals and organic matter, which should be contained in the soil in a form accessible to plants.
• Waterproof, able to retain moisture for a long time.
• Environmentally friendly - free from toxins, heavy metal salts, waste hazardous industries.
• With a neutral level of acidity.
• Having a good structure - light, crumbly, breathable, not containing lumps, foreign inclusions.

Soil for seedlings

1. clay. When added to the soil mixture, clay makes it too dense, poorly permeable to air and water, which leads to seedling diseases.
2. Plant residues, actively decomposing components. Unripe leaves or manure can begin to decompose, releasing heat and reducing the nitrogen concentration in the soil, which is detrimental to young plants. The lack of nitrogen negatively affects their development, and when the soil temperature exceeds 30 ° C, the roots may even die.
3. Weed seeds. By themselves, they are not so dangerous, but pathogens can be present on them.
4. Worms, insect larvae. After all, even an earthworm, so useful for garden beds, being in a seedling pot, can cause considerable harm to a young plant.

It is important to consider the requirements of plants

We prepare the soil for seedlings according to all the rules

All of the above requirements can hardly be met by ordinary soil, hastily dug up in your favorite garden, in a garden or in a forest. It is part of the soil for growing seedlings, but usually it is made multicomponent by adding peat, sand, humus and other components. However, the basis of the soil still remains the earth, which makes up 25-50% of its total volume.

Where is it better to take land - in the forest or in the garden

wonderful integral part will become forest land if you prepare it at the end holiday season and leave the soil mixture prepared on its basis until spring. In this case, it is necessary to understand from which trees it is better to take land for seedlings from the forest in order to achieve an impressive result. In the role of a healthy basis for the best soil, sod and deciduous are most interesting.

Harvesting turf land is not an easy task. In vain, some summer residents believe that it is enough to remove the sod and dig up earth from under it. In reality, soddy soil refers to a substrate formed as a result of a long process with laying layers of sod in a pile or pouring with mullein. High-quality soddy soil can be obtained only after two seasons, just taking it and bringing it from the forest will not work.

At the end of the season - for the gifts of the forest

But you can dig up the earth from under forest trees. You should not take it where the trees and undergrowth are stunted, look sickly, as well as under trees whose foliage contains a lot of tannins: these are oak, chestnut, willow. The earth from under the trees of most is suitable hardwood. Land from a pine forest for seedlings is also suitable, but it must be remembered that coniferous soil has high acidity.

Most summer residents practice every autumn harvesting land for seedlings on own beds. It is convenient, fast and, by and large, reliable, if you follow some "security measures". In addition, there is not without rational grain the opinion that it is better to collect garden land for seedlings where it is determined for the future permanent place. In this case, the seedlings will be adapted to the soil into which they will be transplanted, and will take root better.

The security measures are simple:

1. Comply with crop rotation requirements:

• do not use land from borage for seedlings of pumpkin crops;
• do not sow tomatoes after nightshade.

1. Be sure to disinfect garden soil. Sanitation methods will be discussed below.

Ready soil - pros and cons

Not everyone has the opportunity to prepare and store soil mixtures. When deciding which soil to choose for seedlings, modern vegetable growers and florists often opt for beautifully colored bags of ready-made mixes from garden stores. The finished soil has the following advantages:

• prepared according to the standards of a conscientious manufacturer, it is completely ready for use;
• it is light, nutritious, moisture-intensive;
• deoxidizers, macro- and microelements are added to it, needed by plants;
• convenient packing in packages of various capacities.

Ready soil

However, the purchased soil also has significant disadvantages:

• Manufacturers do not indicate the exact content of mineral elements on the packaging, it is given as a range.
• Soil acidity is often also reported as a large range (5.0-6.5) and it is difficult to judge the actual acidity.
• It happens that a soil mixture is packed into bags that contains not peat, but peat dust, unsuitable for growing plants.
• Sometimes the expiration date is not indicated on the packaging, and expired peat is capable of self-heating, which can kill plants.

Experienced gardeners advise using purchased soil, mixing it in equal parts with disinfected garden or turf soil and adding chalk, lime or dolomite flour as a deoxidizer (up to 3 tablespoons / 10 liters of the mixture). This is based on the not unreasonable opinion that the finished soil mixture usually consists for the most part from peat and has an acidic reaction.

Studying the composition of the purchased soil, it is useful to have information about which peat is better for seedlings - high or lowland. This will help evaluate the properties of the purchased mixture and is useful for self-compilation. High-moor peat is more loose and acidic (requires liming), but less nutritious than lowland peat. Both types of peat are used to prepare seedling soil at home.

The composition of the soil mixture for seedlings

The quality factor of the soil mixture prepared by oneself is determined by the quality and ratio of its components. For seedlings, soil components are used, both organic and inorganic origin. From organic matter, in addition to the soil, you can use:

• Peat of any kind (lowland only processed).
• Mature compost, at least 2-3 years old. The best will be a product prepared using EM technology.
• Humus. For seedlings, the humus must be completely decomposed. In the composition of the mixture for plants prone to black leg disease, it should not be added at all.
• Sphagnum (moss).
• Needles, not forgetting that it increases acidity.
• old sawdust wetted with urea solution.
• Furnace ash. This is a highly desirable component that enriches the soil with various elements, deoxidizes it, and suppresses pathogens.

Soil for seedlings is made up of several components

What can be added to the ground for seedlings from inorganic substances:

• Sand. It is better to use washed river sand of light yellow color, without clay impurities. In soil mixtures for seedlings, sand is an essential component that contributes to its friability and breathability.
• Perlite, agroperlite. The mineral is also added to loosen the mixture. It is also important that it, being an excellent absorber of moisture, prevents stagnation of water in the soil and is able to gradually release the moisture accumulated in itself to plants.
• Vermiculite, crushed expanded clay, packaging foam granules are also used for the above purpose.

Technology for the preparation of high-quality soil mixture

It is advisable to prepare all the necessary components in the fall and in the same season prepare the ground for seedlings with your own hands in the proportions required for the crops planned for planting. This the best option: during the winter, all the components will have time to "make friends", certain metabolic processes will occur, due to which the soil will ripen and in the spring will feed healthy, strong plants. At home, you need to store it in closed plastic bags.

Various ratios of sand, peat and earth can be used for seedlings of various crops. But in general, these are the main components of soil mixtures, the recipes of which cannot be counted. Most vegetables (eggplants, cabbages, peppers, tomatoes) will suit a mixture of equal volumes of these ingredients. In the absence of peat, it will be successfully replaced by humus. A bucket of such a mixture will perfectly complement two glasses of ash.

Important! Seedlings do not need particularly nutritious soil. A school for sowing seeds can be created from disinfected turf or garden soil. And you need to dive plants into a more nutritious soil.

Soil for green pets

How to prepare the soil for seedlings

Now it's time to figure out how to prepare the land for seedlings at home in order to exclude the possibility of seedlings being affected by fungal diseases or insects. After all, it happens that from the black leg, barely appeared shoots die in full force. Awakened insects can also seriously harm seedlings and even grown seedlings.

Ways and methods of disinfection

Therefore, the prepared soil mixture must be disinfected. There are many ways to disinfect the soil for seedlings at home:

1. Thermal:

• freezing,
• calcination,
• boiling water treatment
• steaming.

1. Chemical:

• disinfection with potassium permanganate,
• treatment with special preparations,
• disinfection with copper sulphate.

1. Biological:

• fungicide treatment,
• the use of drugs with effective microorganisms.

Quality soil mix

Each method has its pros and is not without its cons. You need to understand the features of the application of each method and choose the most suitable for yourself.

Thermal disinfection - freezing and calcination

The most natural way of do-it-yourself thermal disinfection is to freeze the ground for seedlings. This method is mainly applicable for processing soil harvested since autumn in regions with frosty (–15–20 ° C) winters and is as follows:

1. In autumn, pack the soil mixture (or its components) in small bags from fabric.
2. Leave the bags in the cold - in a barn, on an open balcony, under a canopy.
3. Three months before the seedling season, add soil to warm room, let thaw.
4. Keep warm for 7-10 days.
5. Again, send the bags to the frost, which will destroy the weed seeds, eggs and larvae of pests that have awakened by this time.
6. This procedure can be done several times during the winter.

Important! This method is gentle on the soil, helps protect seedlings from many pests, but is unable to prevent some diseases. Therefore, before sowing seeds, the soil mixture should be treated with potassium permanganate or a fungicide: for example, Fitosporin.

Soil freezing in fabric bags

High-temperature calcination of the soil (above 100 ° C) allows you to rid it of all harmful microorganisms. But along with pathogens, beneficial soil bacteria also die, the soil loses its normal structure and fertility, and practically becomes dead. If you choose this method of rehabilitation, you need to clearly understand how to properly ignite the ground for seedlings at home:

1. Spill the soil with boiling water. It is undesirable to calcinate dry earth.
2. Put on a baking sheet in a low (up to 5 cm) layer, place on the middle level of the oven.
3. Warm up at 90°C for half an hour.

Calcining the earth in the oven

The process described above is not only calcination, but at the same time steaming the earth for seedlings in the oven. There are other ways to steam.

Other methods of thermal disinfection of soil

The method of steaming the soil mixture for its sterilization is quite common among gardeners. If you spill the ground for seedlings with boiling water and immediately cover the container with a lid or film, this will be the simplest steaming option. But it is better to steam the soil by laying it on a slatted surface (metal sieve, colander) and placing it in a large container over boiling water for an hour and a half. The container should be covered with a lid.

Important! The smell that forms when the soil is heated (if it is not clean sand) is far from perfect. For this reason, sanitation of significant volumes is best done on outdoors.

The soil can be steamed on a metal sieve

Can be armed interesting way calcination-steaming, invented by savvy summer residents. They use a baking sleeve: they put moist soil in it, heat it for 40 minutes in the oven at a temperature of 120-150 ° C. At the same time, the effects of calcination, steaming and treatment with boiling water are present, and the soil retains the existing moisture and structure.

Steaming the earth outdoors

After any type of heat treatment, you should:

1. Give the cooled earth the opportunity to be saturated with air. To do this, at least diligently mix the soil in the storage container. And it is better to scatter the mixture on the film with a layer of up to 10 cm so that it becomes looser and restores its normal structure.
2. It is desirable to “revive” the soil with biohumus and some biological product (“Baikal”, “Renaissance”, “Shine”). Give her a rest for a while, determined by the instructions for the drug.

The soil after steaming must be saturated with air

Chemical methods for sterilizing land for seedlings

It is easy to see that do-it-yourself heat treatment of the soil is a troublesome task that requires a serious investment of time. It is easier to disinfect the ground for seedlings with solutions of various chemicals that effectively deal with soil pests. Preparing soil at home for ornamental plants, you can process it with "Aktara" or "Aktellik". But it is unlikely that any of the modern summer residents will use such compositions when preparing soil mixtures for vegetables.

Soil cultivation for seedlings with potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) and copper sulfate is used by many. Manganese copes well with disinfection, being also a kind of potash fertilizer. Disinfection with potassium permanganate should be carried out in this order:

1. 1-2 weeks before sowing the seeds, prepare a clear raspberry permanganate solution. It is enough to add 5 g of the substance (a teaspoon without top) to the bucket hot water but not boiling water.
2. Mix well, making sure that no undissolved crystals remain.
3. Spill the soil mixture with a hot solution, cover the containers with a film.
4. Repeat these manipulations 3-5 days before sowing.
5. Treatment with copper sulphate is carried out once, 3-4 weeks before sowing the seeds. The dosage is the same as for potassium permanganate.

Important! Copper sulphate and potassium permanganate are powerful oxidizing agents suitable for the treatment of alkaline and neutral soils (soddy calcareous, chernozem). It is not necessary to disinfect the soil with an acidic reaction with them.

Potassium permanganate solution for soil sanitation

It is also worth taking note of the best folk remedy for soil sterilization - ordinary mustard powder. It will protect seedlings from bacteria, viruses, fungi, nematodes, thrips. All you need is a tablespoon of dry mustard powder per 5 liters of soil. It is good to combine this additive with nitrogen fertilizer.

Mustard powder is an excellent soil sanitizer

Biological methods of seedling soil treatment

In recent decades, manufacturers have been delighting gardeners with qualitatively new preparations for soil disinfection that are safe for plants and humans. These include:

1. Biological fungicides:

• Alirin-B,
• "Gamair",
• "Fitosporin-M",
• "Trichodermin".

1. EM drugs:

• "Baikal",
• "Revival"
• "Gumat EM",
• "Shine".

Biofungicides and EMs

Biofungicides contain cultures of bacteria that are effective against pathogens of bacterial and fungal diseases. The composition can also be supplemented with humic substances. The fungicides listed and similar to them effectively suppress diseases, relieve soil fatigue, reduce soil toxicity, and restore its microbiological balance after thermal or chemical treatment.

Using these tools is easy. In general, you need to act according to the recommendations of the manufacturers indicated on the package. Options may vary. For example, when preparing the soil for seedlings with your own hands, you can simply mix 1 g of Trichodermin with 1 liter of soil. Experienced plant growers-practitioners are advised to use Gamair and Alirin-B together:

1. 3 days before sowing seeds, dilute 1 tablet of Alirin and Gamaira in a small amount of water - 1.5-2.0 cups.
2. Bring the volume of the solution to 10 liters.
3. Spill the soil mixture, cover with a film before sowing.

EM preparations have a remarkable effect on the state of the soil. They contain useful living microorganisms, as a result of which the earth heals, acquires a good structure, becomes fertile, literally comes to life. There is no room for pathogens in such soil. To improve the soil (using the example of "Baikal EM1"), you can do this:

1. Bring the soil stored in the cold into a warm room 3-4 weeks before sowing the seeds.
2. A week before sowing, fill seedling containers with soil mixture.
3. Spill prepared according to the instructions with a solution of the drug 1:500.
4. Cover the containers with foil, keep in the dark.

Important! Biological products contain live bacteria and require strict adherence to instructions for use and storage.

Purchased soil bags

Is it worth it to process the purchased soil

Theoretically, multi-colored bags from garden stores should contain soil that is completely ready for sowing seeds - fertile, free of pests, pathogenic fungi and bacteria. Unfortunately, practice shows that confidence in this is far from always justified. If you are convinced of the quality of the purchased soil and the integrity of its manufacturer, the contents can not be decontaminated.

If in doubt, you need to decide how to cultivate the purchased land before planting seedlings and how to do it. In principle, the rules are the same as for the compiled with my own hands soil mixtures, which have already been mentioned. You can also use this technique: lower the purchased package into a bucket of boiling water, leave it in it under the lid until it cools completely, then repeat the procedure.

Some gardeners use heating the package in the microwave for maximum power until the soil begins to soar. At the same time, the package is pierced in several places so that it does not explode. After such treatment, it is necessary to populate the soil with beneficial bacteria using biohumus, EM preparations in order to return it to vitality. You will get acquainted visually with the process of processing purchased soil by watching an educational video.

Video: Do-it-yourself soil preparation

The process of creating land for seedlings with your own hands is not easy, but an exciting activity. Explore various soil mixture recipes, choose the ones that you like. Treat their preparation consciously, responsibly, and green pets will thank you for your care with an excellent harvest.

A year ago we bought a house with a garden.

Gardenuprooted.springare planningsmashbedsonhisplace.WITHwhatstart offtrainingsoil?ElizabethZharova

The decision to break the beds on the site of the old garden is quite justified, because the newly planted young fruit trees they will grow poorly here due to soil fatigue caused by the accumulation of half-life products of plant residues - leaves, fruits, dying roots, as well as pathogens. On the uprooted territory, you can successfully grow any annual crops and garden strawberries.

In the spring, as soon as the weather conditions allow (the signal is a slight lag of clods of earth from the shovel), it is necessary (if this was not done in the fall) to carefully dig the area onto the bayonet of the shovel, selecting, if possible, the remains of roots, rhizomes of perennial weeds, as well as pest larvae wintering in the soil .

The need for liming the site is easy to determine by the weeds growing on it. Nettle, quinoa, shepherd's purse, euphorbia indicate a neutral reaction (6-6.5 pH) of the soil, suitable for most garden crops. Clover, plantain, dandelion, wheatgrass, coltsfoot mean medium (5-5.5 pH), and horsetail, sedge, buttercup, fern - high (4.5 pH) degree of acidification.

In the latter cases, during digging, they close up into the soil slaked lime, chalk, dolomite flour, wood ash and other lime materials at the rate of 200-300 g / m 2 - with an average and 300-500 g / m 2 - with strong acidification.

On sandy and sandy loamy soils, liming is carried out once every 4-5 years. on light loamy soils - 1 time in 6-8 years. on heavy clay - 1 time in 10 years. It should be remembered that it is undesirable to grow potatoes and strawberries on a site made lime this spring.

The efficiency of liming increases if combined with the application of mineral, organic and bacterial fertilizers. Mineral fertilizers are scattered over the entire surface of the ridge.

Depending on the composition of the soil, 20-40 g of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, potassium sulfate are applied per 1 m 2 of the plot. You can replace them with complex mineral fertilizers, such as nitroammofoska, Kemira Universal, Kemira Combi, and other fertilizers containing, in addition to the main macroelements, also microelements. Application rate - 60-100 g/m 2 .

Microfertilizers (copper, boron, iron, manganese, zinc and other trace elements), which activate growth processes and promote better absorption of nutrients by plants, are more effective to use for foliar and root seasonal top dressing.

Bacterial fertilizers (azotobacterin, nitragin, phosphobacterin, AMB biologically active soil). containing useful soil microorganisms, increase the fertile properties of the soil, converting forms of nutrients inaccessible to plants into accessible ones.

They are introduced into moist soil in liquid form, seeds, tubers and seedling roots are treated during sowing. Necessary condition for the active action of bacteria is the temperature in the range of 20-25°C and pH 6-7.5. Acidic soils should be limed before the introduction of bacterial preparations.

After digging with the application of fertilizers and lime, the surface of the earth is loosened, breaking large clods, leveled with a rake, then they start cutting the ridges, orienting them from north to south. On the slopes, the ridges are placed across the site, leaving a 5-7 cm edge on each row to protect the soil from erosion.

The height of the ridges depends on the composition of the soil and climatic conditions. On sandy soils, ridges are made up to 10 cm high, on loamy soils - up to 15-20 cm. Ridges or ridges up to 30 cm high are built in wet areas, arranging a system of diversion grooves through which excess water flows.

High (50-100 cm) ridges, arranged on cold heavy clay or marshy soils, warm up faster in spring and retain heat longer in autumn. In arid places with light soils, it is better to do without ridges altogether, planting plants in furrows. The width of the standard ridge is 90-100 cm. Furrows are 25-30 cm.

You can start sowing and planting cold-resistant crops when the soil has warmed up and contains the optimal amount of moisture (a lump of soil can be rolled into a non-disintegrating tourniquet without getting your hands dirty).

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The yield efficiency of carrots exceeds 1,000,000%, only red and fodder beets, tobacco and mustard can boast of such indicators. From 1 weave, you can collect more than 50 kg of root crops by sowing a bed with seeds weighing 20 g. But in order to achieve such results, it is necessary to take great care in preparing the soil and beds in the spring, taking into account compatibility with plants that grew in this place last year.

You can make beds with your own hands, you just need to know the correct size and width and prepare it in the fall. Any soil has its own characteristics and requires preparation so that carrots can germinate without problems.

There are several general requirements for all types and varieties of carrots, with regards to what kind of soil it needs.

1. She must not contain solid particles, not rotten roots.
2. In her should not be acidic.
3. Sand must be added to clay soil and chernozem - For 1 m2 1 kg of sand.
4. In sandy soil, carrots will thrive if you mix equal parts peat, cattle manure, and potato peels. Fertilizer is prepared for 10-12 months. When dry, it is watered. Stir after 2-3 weeks. For 1 m2 - 5 kg.

Sand is an indicator of the level of humidity.

In addition to loosening dense soil, it helps air to penetrate deep into dense soil, sand absorbs excess moisture.

In pure black soil, the root crop will have an excess of fatty acids - a short shelf life. The viscosity of the soil contributes to the improper development of the upper part of the root crop. Clay, without the addition of sand, dries quickly - the plant is sluggish and small.

Will never grow under the following conditions:

1. After sunflowers.
2. Tobacco.
3. In the shadow.
4. On dry soil, regardless of its composition.
5. On a site with a steep slope.
6. In the presence of wheatgrass.

Do I need to prepare the soil in the spring

No matter how good the soil is, it is impossible to grow a high yield without proper preparation. Before digging a bed, you need check it for moisture.

Pour on a non-dug area 50 by 70 cm 8 liters of water. If moisture, after an hour, entered and gray spots appeared - the soil is dry, contains a lot of salts. Not suitable for carrots.

If the earth is spotless and you can make a ball out of it, you can safely start preparing.

How to properly prepare the land for planting

The difficulty in growing carrots lies not in mineral supplements, but in the presence of solid components in the soil, its density.

1. Land for cultivation should be well loosened.
2. Before loosening, a bed dig up twice. The depth of the first digging is at least 30 cm. The second one is 15-20 cm.
3. Maintain the interval between the first and second digging 10-12 days. So you can find out the permeability of the soil.
4. If during the second digging a lot of deep-rooted weeds, pebbles are found, the land is unsuitable for carrots.
5. With a positive result, after the second digging, dry land sprinkle with crushed peat- thickness 1-2 cm, and pour abundantly.
6. In the spring, once again you need to dig and loosen.

Fertilization

The soil for carrots can be fertilized organic fertilizers autumn or mineral- 1 time 2-3 weeks before planting and 2, and for late varieties 3 times during the growing season.

The proportions of dilution of mineral fertilizers are indicated in the instructions from the manufacturer.

If carrots are grown in small quantities in the country or personal plot It is better to give preference to organic.

Features of organic feeding:

1. Root crops keep longer at the right temperature.
2. All are saved healing properties both roots and tops.
3. Not bitter.
4. The middle is the same.
5. When using mineral fertilizers, in a year it is impossible to get your seeds.
6. If mineral fertilizers are applied - the complete degeneration of the variety occurs in 3-4 years - seeds different sizes, fruits with an overgrown root system predominate.

With the regular use of mineral fertilizers, own seeds must be mixed with purchased. Round short carrots will not be juicy in dry soils fertilized with chemicals.

Desirable predecessors

If bad potatoes grew in the garden last year, the land is depleted. You need to give it a year off. Potatoes are the only indicator of the quality of land for carrots.

After cucumbers carrots will grow well if the soil is prepared and 1.5 kg of cattle manure and 5 kg of crushed corn leaf are given per 1 m2.

After red beets- 0.5 kg of cattle manure and 5 kg of peat per 1 m2. Fertilize chernozem with potato husks and sand 1 to 1. 1 kg per 1 m2.

Winter varieties on rich black soil will be perfectly preserved if they are sown. after fodder beet. But in this case, a high yield cannot be achieved.

An amateur gardener, at the first processing of the site, is recommended to plant cabbage. If it grows nondescript and small, the site requires both minerals and organic matter.

tomatoes- an indicator of the level of humidity. If the fruits turn black, then the bed is suitable for parsley, beets. It is contraindicated to sow carrots.

If legumes grown low and stunted - the earth is fat-free, requires organic matter. Organics are brought in for the winter, on well-dug land.

Preparing the garden for planting

After previous crops, the bed needs get rid of weeds. Let rest 2 weeks. During this time, you can see which weeds will prevail next year. If weeds with deep roots and a fibrous root system predominate, then a carrot crop is not expected.

Further mark a plot 3 by 5 m. After the first digging, carefully break up large clods. If, when breaking, the earth breaks into large sharp clods, it is necessary to fertilize with humus from plants. If there is none - 0.5 kg of bean leaves, cow dung and peat, per 1 m2. Drain thoroughly. Dig in 2 weeks.

If the site is used for the first time for a garden - it dig up 4-5 times in autumn and 2-3 times in spring. This is necessary in order to carefully select the roots of the weeds. If during the week the earth is homogeneous dark color- You don't need to fertilize it.

When preparing a bed for carrots, it is necessary to loosen. Komya - to break. Small stones - remove. If the bed is dug up on black soil of a uniform dark color, there is no need to fertilize.

Organic fertilizers should be applied no later than the winter before planting. Mineral - the first time 2-3 weeks before planting. Further, depending on the variety, 2-3 times during growth.

Autumn fertilization into the soil can significantly increase productivity, but this is not the whole range of measures that the soil requires. Preparation is divided into several stages, following which you can achieve amazing results throughout the subsequent period.

Autumn soil preparation

By cultivating the land in the fall, you can significantly increase the yield. It is only necessary to perform all the steps in strict sequence. Work should begin immediately after harvesting all the vegetables: in late September - early October. It is important to start it before the onset of the cold season and before the start. Immediately after harvesting tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, it is necessary to loosen the ground with a rake. This will allow the weed seeds to germinate.

After two weeks after loosening, when weed shoots appear, the earth must be dug up. During this process, the bear and many other pests are destroyed. Do not be afraid of young growth of grass. Many types of weeds die completely when the upper part of the plant is destroyed. When cleaning the soil surface in autumn, many pathogens and pests die. Preparation during this period is especially important. It is necessary to dig the soil to the depth of the fertile layer (20-25 cm), trying not to get the barren layer to the surface.

But if the land contains a large amount of clay or the site has been neglected and a large number of weeds have grown on it, digging is indispensable both in autumn and in spring. Of course, if you want to have a rich harvest!

The clods of earth formed after digging in the fall should not be broken. The soil left in this form for the winter is better saturated with air, less compacted. During winter frosts, clods of earth freeze through, destroying the remaining larvae, pests, pathogens and the root system of weeds.

Fertile soil: preparation

The soil in which there is a large amount is considered more fertile due to the fact that these creatures saturate it with humus. If the top layer does not have a continuous cover of weeds, then the earth can not be dug up, loosening is quite enough. Sometimes such a plot is sown in the fall. This prevents the leaching of nutrients from the top layer and creates favorable conditions to form humus.

Spring soil preparation

On loose ground that was dug up in the fall, the snow melts much faster in the spring, so the season can start earlier. Lumps, breaking up into small fractions, freely pass water. As a result, loose and fertilized soil is formed. Preparation in early spring does not take much time - you only need to grind large clods, and you can start. It is better to do this after the earth dries out and begins to loosely lag behind the surface of the shovel.

Greenhouse: ground care

If on suburban area there is a greenhouse, then there are a number of activities that should be completed in the fall. Since the air in the greenhouse is warm and rather humid, this creates certain conditions for the development of all kinds of microorganisms - pathogens. Soil preparation in the greenhouse should be carried out in the fall, because this time is the best suited for cleaning from unwanted pests.

First you need to remove all the remnants of tops and weeds, and then disinfect the soil. To do this, use copper sulfate (one tablespoon per ten liters of water), which must be applied to the ground. Such procedures should be performed with great care, and if there is not enough experience, it is better to use another method. To do this, it is necessary to remove the top layer of earth (5-6 cm) and take it outside the greenhouse. This allows you to get rid of weed seeds, larvae and other pests. And then add the missing layer with manure, compost, sand and tree leaves. After that, the soil is dug up, thus evenly mixing with fertilizers.

On the walls of the greenhouse, as a rule, all kinds of fungi and mold multiply. To get rid of them, it is necessary to carry out fumigation with sulfur.

How to get a good strawberry harvest

Soil preparation for planting strawberries includes site selection and soil cultivation. Fans of this berry should be aware that such a culture will not grow well in a sandy area, since it has an upper root system that will simply overheat and dry out in summer. On land with a lot of clay, it is also problematic to get a good harvest, since the roots will not have enough oxygen. Soil quality can be improved by adding humus. It is better to prepare beds for strawberries, the height of which is 10 centimeters, and the distance between them is up to half a meter.

Preparing the soil for strawberries in August

This berry grows in one place up to 4 years, so preparing the land may require some effort. You should immediately get rid of all the weeds, because after planting weeding will have to spend a lot of effort. Having decided on the place, it is necessary to dig up the soil and carefully select all the roots. It should be borne in mind that this berry is sun-loving, and in the shade of trees you can not count on the harvest.

Soil preparation, namely the selection of all weeds, is a rather tedious process. The same problem can be solved by using "Hurricane"). After spraying, after 10 days, the site is dug up, and dead plants are removed with a rake. Then the soil is fertilized and seedlings are planted. Preparing the soil for strawberries in August, followed by planting, allows you to get the first harvest next year.

Crop rotation when planting strawberries

When alternating crops grown on a personal plot, the fertility of the land is maintained. It also significantly reduces the number of pests and the likelihood of disease. At perennial cultivation in the same place of identical crops, “fatigue” of the soil occurs, and productivity decreases. Each type of plant is affected by certain diseases. Growing in one place leads to the accumulation of pathogens and a powerful defeat of planted crops.

Therefore, soil preparation for strawberries should be carried out taking into account what has grown in this area before. It is not recommended to plant this berry after potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant and cabbage. The most favorable place is where carrots, onions, peas, garlic, and beets grew.

Preparing a plot for raspberries

When planning to plant raspberries, keep in mind that you need to choose the right site. After all, this plant forms many shoots, loves fertile land and sunlight. It is not advisable to plant the berry in open, windy, low and wet areas, as well as between rows of trees. The most successful would be the location along the fence.

Due to the fact that raspberries deplete the soil quite strongly and can grow in one place for up to ten years, it is necessary to fertilize the soil well before planting. good action provide organic fertilizers that can be mixed with compost and ash. Soil preparation in the fall is the best option. First, they dig it up and remove the weed roots, then evenly distribute the fertilizer over the surface and dig it up again.

The required amount of nutrients depends on the soil. If the site is poor, then it is necessary to add 10 kg of organic matter per square meter, as well as 30 g of phosphorus and potash fertilizers. 10 kg should be added to fertile soil organic fertilizers and 20 g of phosphorus and potassium. carried out in the spring.

Planting raspberries in the same place: features

If you need to remove the old bushes of the plant and plant new ones, then the preparation will take much longer. First, old bushes are removed and the soil is fertilized. In the next two years, it is necessary to plant various vegetables on this site: beets, carrots, cucumbers, onions, radishes. In the year of planting, crops are also planted that are harvested early (lettuce, dill, onion), and then the land is prepared. It is on such soil that raspberries will grow most effectively. Soil preparation and proper crop rotation will ensure a good harvest for ten years.

Autumn land preparation is the key to a good potato harvest

Loose soil is required for a good harvest of this crop. To do this, it is necessary to dig the site deep in the fall. It is better to do this in mid-September - late October. Large clods of earth should not be crushed. During winter frosts, pest larvae will be destroyed, and the earth will acquire the necessary friability, which will ensure optimal conditions for potato development. In the spring, fertilizers must be applied to the site and, with the help of a rake, they should be embedded in the ground, while the surface will level out, large clods of soil remaining after winter will be crushed.

It is necessary to know that the activity of microorganisms should be supported in the soil during the entire growing season. This can be achieved by introducing organic matter, phosphorus and potash fertilizers into the soil. The addition of several types of nutrients involves the incorporation of one item first, and the next one a week later. The application is carried out after the snow melts, as it has a negative effect on the microflora. Fulfillment of these requirements allows you to competently carry out such an event as soil preparation. Potatoes should be planted after the soil has dried sufficiently.

If planting is carried out in too wet ground, then its friability decreases and the likelihood of nutrient loss increases. During the growth of potatoes, the air supply must also be maintained by applying hilling.

Fall is the season for planting garlic.

The autumn time is characterized not only by preparing the soil for the next season - this is the most auspicious time for planting garlic and onions. The main advantages of sowing before winter:

• plants harden in the winter in a natural way;
• earlier harvest.

The optimal landing time is mid-October, but before the first frost. This time ensures that in the event of a short-term warming, the garlic does not begin to sprout prematurely.

Soil preparation should begin a month before the planned planting and include all necessary activities. First, fertilizers (humus and ash) should be applied, and then the earth is dug up. After 30 days, you can start sowing.

Choice of landing site

It is important to choose the right landing site. You can not plant onions and garlic in the same area every year. The most favorable place is after legumes, nightshade, cabbage. autumn planting provides the formation of a powerful root system, for this the depth should not exceed 5 cm. Also, bulbs or cloves should not be strongly pressed into the ground.

Autumn preparation of beds for cucumbers

Every gardener knows that in the spring there is a lot of work on the plot, so the task can be greatly facilitated autumn preparation soil. Cucumbers are very demanding on humidity and temperature. Therefore, when choosing a site, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances.

The first stage of land preparation includes processing from possible diseases. To do this, it is necessary to "disinfect" the soil with copper sulfate, the concentration of which should be one tablespoon per 10 liters of water. A week later, compost is introduced into the soil and sealed up. In autumn, unripened compost can be used. Good results gives manure. Soils containing sand and characterized by high acidity are considered the most optimal for growing cucumbers.

When choosing a site, crop rotation must be taken into account. The best option it is considered if before that tomatoes, potatoes, cabbage, onions grew on the beds. Do not plant cucumbers after zucchini, watermelons, pumpkins. This is because these plants take the same nutrients from the soil, and are also susceptible to the same diseases and pests. The site prepared in the fall must be loosened. Until the seedlings or seeds are planted in the ground, weeds that have appeared should be regularly removed. The soil, the preparation of which is the main condition for a bountiful harvest, must be generously fertilized and loosened. The implementation of these simple rules, as well as the observance of crop rotation, allows even beginner summer residents to maintain an exemplary garden.