Drainage near the house. How to make drainage around the house at an early stage with plastic pipes? Purpose and types of systems

There are several places in a private house that need to be protected from getting wet from the outside. This is the foundation and recessed buildings. Rainwater, all kinds of runoff and rising groundwater gradually destroy the monolithic foundations and walls of the basements. A properly equipped drainage system around the house can prevent the occurrence of this process. It is able to remove excess moisture from structures. Even a very good blind area cannot be compared in terms of the degree of protection of a house with a laid drainage system. It is highly recommended to equip such a system near each house, regardless of the presence of a basement or basement.

A high-quality drainage system around the house with your own hands can be made in several ways:

Features of different foundation drainage systems

The choice of a particular type of drainage depends on the presence of buried rooms, the depth of groundwater, the composition of the soil on the site and the topography of the site itself. Consider what features the drainage device around the house has.

In total, there are 3 types of drainage, which differ in their location and design:

Important: Please note that formation drainage does not replace other types of drainage, but only complements it. Therefore, in addition to it, the main drainage system should be carried out.

Please note that if you decide to do ring drainage around the house with your own hands, the system should be located 0.5 m below the foundation level. Such an arrangement will ensure high-quality removal of groundwater from the building at any time of the year.

And if you are thinking about that, then our separate material on this topic may be useful to you.

Drainage installation

Consider how to make a drainage system around the house in two ways.

Production of wall drainage

Before performing work, it is necessary to prepare the foundation, since the system will directly adjoin it.

For this, the following work is carried out:

The foundation from the outside is primed with a special bituminous primer.
Bituminous mastic is applied to the dried surface.
Adhered to the mask reinforcing mesh with cells 2 x 2 mm.
The next day, after the mastic has hardened, the second layer of mastic is again applied to the mesh.

In the photo, the drainage system around the house is a trench and manholes along the edges

a collector well is mounted, to which drainage pipes will be connected. It is located at the lowest point on the site;
using a laser or building level, the slope of the trench passing near the foundation is ensured towards the water collector;
the bottom of the trenches is covered with a layer of sand of at least 5 cm;
geotextiles are laid on the sand, the sides of which will subsequently be overlapped;
a gravel backfill is created having a thickness of the order of 10 cm;
prepared perforated pipes are laid on the gravel layer. They are provided with a slope of 2 degrees;
pipes are joined by adapters and corner connectors;
at the corners of the building, all pipelines enter the installed manholes;
pipes are laid from the manholes, diverting water into a collection well or drain hole. These pipes are also located in trenches and have a slope;
the pipes are backfilled with gravel (about 10 cm) and the entire contents are wrapped with geotextiles. By means of synthetic ropes, the geotextile is firmly fixed;
further backfilling of the trenches to the level of the soil is carried out with sand or soddy soil.

We looked at how to make drainage around a wall-type foundation. Next, we will pay attention to the manufacture of trench drainage, which is even more popular.

Production of an annular drainage

For this type of work, you will also need perforated pipes, crushed stone, sand and geotextiles. When an annular drainage system is made around the house, the technology involves digging trenches at a distance of 5-8 m from the foundation of the building in order to exclude the possibility of subsidence of the soil around it. The trenches are located around the building and represent closed system. The depth of the trenches should be such that the drainage passes below the level of the foundation by 50 cm.

A trench (or several trenches) is immediately carried out towards the main catchment well. The slope of the trenches is provided at least 2-3 cm per running meter. The slope can be adjusted by adding sand in the right places.

the bottom of the trenches is lined with a layer of sand, and then with geotextiles, the edges of which are wrapped around their walls;
crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile with a layer of 10 cm;
pipes with holes drilled in them are laid out on crushed stone. It is desirable to use a pipe diameter of at least 10 cm. It is advisable to pre-wrap all pipes with a layer of geotextile, which will prevent their clogging;

Tip: Regular ones are fine. pvc pipes used for sewerage. In them, you can drill holes of small diameter with a drill, placing them in a certain order.

the slope of the pipes is checked, which must be at least 2 degrees;
manholes are mounted at pipe bends, closed with removable covers. The same wells should be installed on long straight sections, with a step of 12 m;
crushed stone or gravel is poured over the laid pipes with a layer of 20-30 cm;
the entire “pie” inside the trenches is wrapped with overlapping geotextiles;
the place remaining in the trenches is covered with river sand and covered with turf.

Features of drainage wells

Any drainage around a site or structure should be constructed using multiple manholes located at pipe bends. It is in these places that clogging of drainage pipes most often occurs. Through the manhole, you can control the cleanliness of the drains and clean them if necessary. Wells can be purchased or made from any material. They should be of such a width that it is convenient to clean them by lowering your hand there.

In addition to several manholes, at the lowest point of the site is collector well designed to collect all the water flowing through the channels. This is a wider and more voluminous structure, which can be concrete, plastic or metal. Its depth is chosen in such a way that the pipes entering it are at a considerable distance from the bottom. This makes it possible to periodically clean the well from sediments accumulated at its bottom and allows the well to be filled with sewage. From the collector tank, water can be pumped out by a pump or go by gravity to designated places.

By creating a drainage system around the house in accordance with all the rules, you will get rid of the detrimental effect of excessive dampness affecting the foundation and recessed rooms of the house.

Let's make a reservation right away, drainage and waterproofing are different concepts and one of them does not exclude the other. Drainage around the house (drainage system) allows you to remove or reduce the level of water in the area.

The danger lies both from the outside (precipitation, flood waters) and from the inside (groundwater). Waterproofing protects the foundation of the building from water ingress.

But, even a foundation that is qualitatively isolated from water will not protect the foundation of a private house (basement) and the basement from water ingress for a long time. After all, if the water constantly pushes, it will find weaknesses in the waterproofing. And vice versa, if you take it away in time, your house or cottage will be safe.

Drainage around the house with your own hands

When is a drainage system needed?

site location. The lower it is, the more urgent the problem of drainage;
soil quality - on clay and loamy soils, the water level decreases slowly;
rainfall in your area;
groundwater level;
deepening of other buildings on the site. If the adjacent building has a heavily buried foundation, the water will have nowhere to go, and it will accumulate on the surface, increasing the risk of flooding;
the presence of waterproof coatings - concrete paths, an asphalt yard - these are places inaccessible to water penetration.

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house will eliminate the problems caused by the factors listed above.

Types of drainage systems

Depending on the severity of the problem of flooding the site, there are several ways to make drainage around a private house.

Surface drainage

This type includes storm sewers (storm sewers). The advantage of such drainage is that its arrangement is simpler and accessible after most types of work on the site have been completed. Surface drainage systems allow you to divert only rain and melt water, cope with ground water they are unable to.

There are two types of surface drainage devices: linear and point.

Linear drainage

It is focused on the removal of storm or melt water from the entire site and from the house, in particular. Water flows into channels dug in the ground and is discharged into a drainage well. As a rule, the channels have a straight linear shape and are closed with gratings.

Point drainage

Designed for quick drainage of water generated from local sources (eg under roof gutters, watering taps, etc.). Point drains are covered with decorative metal gratings to prevent clogging of the channel with debris and leaves. From each point, drainage pipes are laid, which are connected to the main main pipe leading to the drainage well.

Combined drainage combines the two systems mentioned above: point and line drainage.

According to the method of the device, the drainage can be open and closed.

open drainage

A system of trenches, gutters, drains or catchment trays.

Such a drainage is a trench, which is designed to drain storm and melt water from the house and from the site.

The principle of the open drainage system

A ditch up to half a meter wide and 50-60 cm deep is dug along all sides of the site and around the house. All these trenches are connected to a common drainage trench.

In order for water to flow freely into the trench from the side of the house in the ditch, a bevel is made at an angle of 30 °, and the slope towards the main water intake trench (or drain well) will allow water to be drained by gravity in the right direction.

The advantage of an open drainage system can be called low cost and high speed of work. But, if you need to drain a large amount of melt and rainwater, then you will have to arrange a deep drainage line into which someone can fall. The unfinished walls of the ditches are collapsing. Such a system spoils the appearance of the site.

It is possible to increase the service life and increase the safety of such a system through the use of special trays (made of plastic or concrete), which are closed with bars from above.

Outdoor drainage around the house

Closed drainage

It has a more aesthetic appearance compared to the previous one, as it is equipped with a protective grill, but the receiving ditch is much narrower and smaller. Their views are shown in the photo.

Closed drainage around the house

Backfill drainage - a system of backfilled trenches

It is used in the case when the area of the site is small, and it is impossible or impractical to make open drainage. The disadvantage of this system is the inability to carry out maintenance of the trench after the arrangement without dismantling.

Proper drainage around this type of house is arranged in several stages.

a trench is dug to a depth of about a meter with the obligatory observance of a slope towards the drain (drainage) well;

geotextile is laid at the bottom of the trench;

the trench is covered with gravel, crushed stone, etc.;

a layer of turf is laid on top. This stage is optional, but allows you to give the site a more aesthetic appearance.

Backfill drainage

deep drainage

The removal of a large amount of groundwater requires the construction of a solid system - deep drainage of the site. The device of a deep drainage system is used in areas with clay soil located in a lowland and characterized by a high level of groundwater.

The device process is laborious and consists in laying pipes (the diameter depends on the amount of water removed) from perforations into deep trenches (depending on the height of the soil water).

Closed drainage - pipe system

Diagram of a closed drainage device, pipes and laying method

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Step-by-step instructions for the device of drainage closed type

Determine the location of the closed drainage system, which can be implemented in two versions:

pass only near the foundation, i.e. around the house (wall drainage), preventing the penetration of water directly into the house.
located throughout the site, thus the basement of the cottage, as well as plantings and other outbuildings, will be protected.

Closed-type drainage device (solid, wall-mounted)

The drainage scheme around the house is shown in the photo

Mark the location of the drainage ditches on the site. Usually, devices such as a laser rangefinder and a level are used for this. But, you can make it easier, trace where the grooves of water remain after the rain - drainage trenches should be laid there.

Dig trenches. When digging, be sure to observe the height difference. After all, water should flow to the drainage well, and not accumulate in the pipes.

Digging a trench for site drainage country house

Lay a layer of geotextile. Its role in drainage is to filter the water of impurities that can clog the perforation of the drainage pipe.

Laying geotextile on the bottom of the trench for drainage

You can take any geotextile, the main thing is that it passes and filters water well. It is better not to take dense needle-punched geotextiles, because. it does not pass water well.

Laying the perforated pipe Lay the perforated pipe - the basis of the drainage system. Pipes can be ceramic or plastic. But in any kind of pipes there must be perforation for receiving water (perforation can be done independently, using a drill). The pipes are connected to each other by means of a cross or a tee.

Bring the ends of the pipe into the manholes. Such wells are installed at all turns in order to be able to take care of the system. For example, clean the pipe with water pressure or evaluate the change in water level.

Bring the ends of the pipe into the drainage well. This is the last ingredient closed system drainage.

Conclusion of pipes in manholes

According to their functional purpose, drainage wells are divided into two types:

accumulating. This well has a sealed bottom. Water accumulates in it and is then used for irrigation;
absorbing. A well without a bottom, the water in it gradually sinks into the soil.

Fill the geofabric with crushed stone without reaching the top level of the ground 200mm.
Cover drainage pipes with crushed stone to a height of 300mm.
Wrap the pipes with overlapping geotextile and fix the joints with a rope.
Fill in sand, earth and/or lay sod.

Absorption well and winding of the drainage pipe with geotextile

The finished drainage system in the section is shown in the photo

Sectional diagram of the drainage system

Which of the listed types of drainage is right for you can be determined only by knowing the features of the site. In general, you should choose the drainage around the house, the cost of the arrangement and operation of which is the lowest, and of course, which you can do yourself. At the same time, it must qualitatively and reliably perform the role of a drainage system. Indeed, according to experts, proper drainage around the house will extend its life by more than 50 years.

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house - diagram, instructions, tips

How to make drainage around the house - the principle of building a proper drainage system closed and open type. Methods for draining water from the basement and foundation of the house and from the site. Photo and video instruction

Drainage system around the house: a drainage device for draining the soil around the perimeter

If the site is located in a zone of frequent accumulation of moisture, then a drainage system around the house is made without fail. The drainage device will allow you to drain the soil around the perimeter. The constant impact of water on the supporting structures leads to rapid destruction, as the rate of reproduction of microorganisms and fungi increases dramatically.

Preparing a trench for laying pipelines

Drainage system around the house: drainage device in two versions

Channels for water drainage can be laid in two main ways. With an open location, the aesthetic characteristics of the surrounding landscape are violated. Therefore, in most cases, they resort to the device of deep systems, when perforated pipelines are buried in the ground.

The pipelines are supposed to be laid next to the foundation

Drainage at the dacha. The easiest way to drain storm and melt water, types and nuances of installation in a special publication of our online magazine.

Benefits of open networks

The advantages of systems with open channels for draining the soil are as follows:

the withdrawal is superficial, therefore it does not require labor-intensive work;
when arranging channels, no additional elements are needed, which avoids unnecessary costs;
the system is effective when used on clay soils.

Stone-decorated open-type drainage

Advantages of deep networks

The main advantage of closed networks is the hidden laying of elements, that is, after some time after the completion of work, no traces remain. You can do landscape design without restrictions. However, such systems are poorly effective in the presence of clayey soil located near the surface.

The classical scheme of laying pipelines is presented

Do-it-yourself ring drainage construction around the house: how to make a reliable system

When a drainage system is arranged around the house with their own hands, several meters recede from the building. At the same time, pipelines of a closed storm sewer can be dug in, which ensures the removal of precipitation from the surface. roofing and tracks.

The construction of the ring system is demonstrated

Do-it-yourself deep drainage device around the house

The process of erecting a closed moisture drainage network is very laborious, as it involves laying pipelines in the ground with subsequent instillation. For work, it is necessary to purchase suitable perforated pipes and geotextiles to protect the surface of the elements from silting.

Crushed stone should be between the pipe and the geotextile

The place for the drain well and the location of the pipelines are determined. It is better to dig a hole for drains in the lowest part of the site, so as not to go deep into the ground.
Digging trenches with a slope of 2 cm towards the well. Their bottom is covered with a sand layer of 10-15 cm. All irregularities made during earthworks ah, hiding.
A sheet of geotextile is spread over the sand. Its edges should protrude from the trench in order to make an overlap. The material is cut with a sharp knife.
A layer of crushed stone with a thickness of at least 15 cm is poured onto the geotextile. It will allow the pipes to be located at a certain distance from the canvas, thereby providing protection from dirt entering the perforation.
Pipes are laid on a gravel embankment and connected to each other. If there are turns from the interchange, then revision wells must be made in these places.
The laid pipelines are covered with crushed stone until the layer thickness above the elements is at least 15 cm. This is necessary to protect the side and upper holes in the pipes from silting.
The edges of the geotextile overlap with a slight overlap. The rest of the trench is covered with ordinary soil.

The edges of the geotextile sheets should protrude from the trench

Works to create open drainage around a residential building

Open systems are most effective in removing surface water that falls as precipitation. They are ditches with a depth of not more than 50 cm, located along a given trajectory. Perimeter trenches will spoil the appearance of the site, so decorating them is a must.

Open drain used to collect rainfall

The most commonly used materials for decoration are natural stones or sickness. First, large cobblestones are laid at the bottom of the ditches, allowing the formation of channels for the passage of water. Then medium-sized stones or tree branches are laid.

This scheme creates an open drainage system around the house. A drainage device of this type is considered quite economical. During the work, additional elements such as pipes and special membranes are not used. The right decor will allow you to successfully fit the gutters into the overall landscape of the site.

Decorative grilles act as protective and decorative elements

Prices for drainage work around the turnkey house: ready-made option

Those developers who do not want to figure out how to properly drain around the house can hire professional workers. Many firms offer a wide range of services for the creation of various systems from design to implementation. The table shows the prices for the full list of works.

A trench is being prepared for laying pipelines

drainage system around the house: do-it-yourself drainage device

If your site is located in a zone of frequent accumulation of moisture, then a drainage system around the house must be made. The drainage device will allow you to drain the soil around the perimeter, and you can do it yourself.

How to make drainage around the house at an early stage with plastic pipes?

Required Tools

There are several options for how to make drainage around the house. However, upon closer examination, the closed drainage system is optimal, in the arrangement of which there are many secrets.

1 Drainage system around the house - why is it needed?

A typical construction fallacy (typical for people without experience, but with money) is the substitution of fundamental concepts. Drainage does not replace foundation waterproofing! A well-insulated foundation still needs a drainage system! The reason lies in the depths of your site - in alternating layers of clay and loam, in seasonal changes in the level of groundwater.

Of no less importance is the relative height of the site on the ground - the smaller it is, the more relevant the device of drainage around the house with your own hands is. Rainfall and external soil permeability also contribute to the need for drainage. There are many factors, and not all of them can be taken into account even before building a house. And they manifest themselves quite tangibly - in the form of basement mold, fungi on load-bearing beams and in other unpleasant forms.

Therefore, the drainage system is laid at the stage of earthworks, when digging a foundation pit for a house. All other schemes for the removal of melt and groundwater, precipitation, etc. should be recognized as patching holes in a sprawling shirt, although for objectivity we will consider them as well.

2 How to make drainage around the house - mounting options

There are only three of them, and the first two are carried out with big reservations. They carry a potential danger to the life and health of residents and are more relevant for those houses in which there are no children:

Open variant. A ditch is dug around the house, and its depth should exceed the depth of the foundation. The width of the ditch can be narrow, plus it is necessary to make a slope for the natural flow of water. As a result, a slit-like trench appears on its own site, which is fatally reflected in the impressiveness appearance. It can be decorated with external ceilings, but the danger of children and animals falling into such a ditch remains;
Backfill option. The same open ditch, but covered from above with rubble, cinder blocks, rubble and decorated with turf. No one will fall into it, but the technical operation of the filling system is fundamentally impossible. In case of emergency blockage of the drainage, it will be necessary to open the entire ditch, and it will be necessary to localize the problem area on a whim. That is, you will need to dig through the entire area as if looking for a treasure;
Closed variant. It is carried out by drainage pipes, it is safe and effective, it allows maintenance and various arrangements. We will consider it in more detail: how to make drainage on the site with your own hands through buried pipes. And let's start with their choice.

3 How to make drainage on the site - we choose pipes with our own hands

Drainage pipes are produced by our (and not our) industry in the following varieties:

Asbestos-cement, the strongest, most durable ... and heaviest. Additional joy comes from the need to make through cuts in them, in a checkerboard pattern and quite extended - every 15-20 cm, at least 5 mm in size. Manufacturers rely on the service life of such pipes, which reaches 50 years, and the asbestos cement itself is not afraid of aggressive environments;
Ceramic - that is, simply clay. This means that they are fragile, they can be damaged even at the stage of transportation and storage. However, some types of ceramic pipes are good for the presence of additional surface grooves, they contribute to increased moisture collection. Perforation of ceramic pipes is similar to asbestos-cement, that is, it is performed independently, in place. Installation is difficult due to the low strength of the ceramic drainage material;
Porous pipes are made of plastic concrete, expanded clay glass and other modern building materials. They do not need perforation at all due to their porous structure - moisture is collected through capillary channels in the walls. Financially expensive, effective drainage is provided with a significant diameter of pipes;
Polymer pipes - made of polypropylene, polyethylene and other plastics. Lightweight, economical, easy to install and efficient during long term operation - 90% of drainage work in private homes is carried out by them.

4 Drainage around the house - do it yourself and step by step

A step-by-step instruction with practical tips on how to make drainage around the house consists of the following steps for arranging it:

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house - step by step diagram

Step 1: surveyor

We determine the lowest point of our site - yes, yes, the trench will have to be pulled to it, there will be a drain well. Because avoiding mold in your basement is important, but preventing waterlogging of the soil will also not be superfluous. With the flat nature of the site, the presence of tall grass and other external complications, theodolite will help determine the lower point. This tool can be rented or asked from friends - you can’t attribute it to items of constant construction necessity.

Ditches around the house should have a slope of at least 1 centimeter per linear meter. Water will flow even with a slope of 3 mm per meter, but dirty moisture will go through our drainage, with fine sand and loam, the inner surface of the pipes will eventually become covered with plaque. So you have to lay a slope of at least 10 mm per 1 meter. This will lead to an increase in the amount of earthwork, but will serve to the benefit of the durability of the drainage system.

Step 2: Digging

Dig, Shura, they are golden... The depth of the ditch around the house itself should exceed the lowest point of the foundation by at least 30 cm. they still dig it out “with a margin” sufficient for laying pipes. For the excavation stage of work, an acute bayonet shovel, the shovel assistant will not be superfluous - for lifting the soil up.

The top point of the ditch is located on the opposite side of the drainage well in the lower part of the site, the width of the ditch is about 50 cm. Each linear meter must be checked bubble level to meet the required slope.

Step 3: backfill and cover

At the bottom of our trench, crushed stone of fractions of 10-15 mm is poured - that is, quite large. A layer of sand is laid on top and rammed. The total thickness of the sand and gravel layer is approximately 15 cm. The slope profile must be precisely maintained - 1 cm per meter is visually poorly recognized, especially in a narrow trench. Again using the level, the uniformity of the slope is important for the long-term gravity flow of water in the drainage pipes.

The bottom of the trench with the approach to the walls at least 60-70 cm on each side is covered with geotextile, this material will not allow moisture to go down to the gravel-sand layer. At the junction of geotextile strips, we make a wide overlap. From above, we again fall asleep crushed stone, already of a small thickness - 5-7 mm, repeating the slope line.

Step 4: finally drainage

Drainage pipes are laid on the second crushed stone surface. Their joints are isolated with a special tape. Inspection wells with covers are laid in at least two opposite corners of the house - their height must immediately correspond to the level of the turf on the backyard.

The pipe line is pulled to the inspection and drainage wells and checked by pouring water from the top point, at least several buckets. As long as the drainage communications are open, any error is easy to correct. When there is no doubt about the accuracy of the slope and the tightness of the joints, the pipes can be filled up.

Step 5: Finishing

A layer of gravel up to 40 cm thick is carefully poured onto the surface of the pipes. Geotextiles are wrapped around it - now the gravel will not be subject to silty layers. On top of the geotextile fabric, you can lay a storm sewer pipe and also lead it into a drainage well. A storm pipe is joined with drains, for which its fittings are brought to the surface.

The gravel layer is covered with earth, sod is laid on top. Our drainage system around the house is ready. Now, no bad weather is terrible for the dwelling, as well as fluctuations in the level of groundwater and dampness in the premises - just do not forget to perform high-quality waterproofing of the basement, drainage does not replace it.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands, video instructions

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands, what are the main stages in the implementation of the drainage system, you will be prompted by video tips on protection against flooding and mold

Drainage and drainage of the area around the house

Drainage around the house and drainage of the site are carried out only if the location of your house is not very good - in lowland or swampy areas, in floodplains of rivers or reservoirs. However, do not think that do-it-yourself drainage around the house and drainage adjoining territory- an impossible task. It is quite possible to cope with these works on your own, however, having certain knowledge.

Do-it-yourself drainage of the area around the house

If the site is located in a lowland or groundwater passes close to its surface, it is necessary to drain the area. It is optimal when the groundwater level passes at a depth of more than 2.5 m from the surface.

If the distance is less than 1.5 m, then the bearing capacity of the soil decreases - it becomes waterlogged and saturated with water. This affects the settlement of the foundation and makes it problematic to build a basement or basement.

To drain the site around the perimeter of the planned house, and preferably along the edges of the entire yard, they dig channels with a slight slope and organize drainage. The optimal width of such channels is 50-70 cm.

The depth is calculated in each case individually, since it depends on how much the groundwater level needs to be lowered. Drainage is laid as follows.

At a distance of 2-3 m from the house, they dig a ditch with a depth equal to the base of the foundation. A layer of clay of 15-20 cm is laid on its bottom, giving it the shape of a tray. Medium-sized stones are carefully laid out on top, forming sides. Large stones are placed on top, forming a vault. Gravel or crushed stone 25-30 cm high is placed on it. Everyone falls asleep with the soil taken out during excavation. Water will seep through the soil into the tray and run off in the right direction.

How to properly drain the area around the house

Proper drainage around the house can be done more modern way- lay drainage pipes from special materials. They have a smooth surface of the inner wall, which accelerates the flow of water, the outer layer is corrugated, which gives rigidity and strength. Pipes are laid underground to a depth of 5 m.

The drainage device around the house is as follows:

Drainage trenches are placed in the part of the site free from development, combined with a common catchment pipe, the runoff is discharged into a street ditch.

The drainage system for drainage around the house is laid with a slope of 2-3 ° from separate drains made of pipes with a diameter of 100-150 mm and a length of up to 20 m. To do this, they dig a trench with a slope towards the water collector.

From above, the pipes are first covered with large gravel with a layer of at least 20 cm, then with soil.

With a slope of the drainage network in the opposite direction from the street, in the depth of the site, a reservoir is constructed to collect water with sides of 2 × 4 m and vertical walls.

Laying a system of pipes to drain the area around the house is difficult and expensive. But this is necessary for areas that are located in a lowland or on a slope, that is, in places where a large amount of water accumulates. Almost all organizations that sell drainage pipes are involved in the development of the project and carry out the relevant work. If necessary, you can contact them.

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site and foundation of the house

Do-it-yourself drainage at home based on pipes is done as follows:

Step 1. Designate the planned drainage using an airbrush or scattering sand.

Step 2. Manually or mechanically dig grooves 40-60 cm deep, clean of debris, check evenness with a ruler and a spirit level.

Step 3. At the bottom of the dug trench, pour a layer of sand 5-7 cm thick. Lay a drained pipe on top. Connect pipes with tees and fittings.

Step 4. Pour a layer of gravel on the pipe, not reaching the ground 10-15 cm. Lay a geotextile film on top. Pour soil on it flush with the surface of the earth, level it.

It is advisable to apply the scheme of the system for drainage of the foundation of the house to the drawing of the general plan so as not to damage it when performing any excavation work on the site. Drainage is done without the use of pipes. For the construction of such a system, a ditch is first dug, then geotextiles are laid in such a way that its bottom and walls are closed with a margin of about 30 cm. Crushed stone is overlapped with geotextile and covered with soil, leveling with ground level.

Sometimes owners of private houses are faced with the fact that melt and rainwater flood not only plantings on the site, but also paths. To solve this problem, when performing drainage of the foundation of the house with your own hands, it is recommended to install drains on both sides of the paths of the site.

The grooves are dug at a distance of 40-50 cm from the main road and 25-30 cm from the secondary paths, which are initially made with a slight bulge in the center or with an inclination to the side by 2-3 °. Water is drained into cuvettes and moves in the right direction.

Drainage runoff can be diverted outside the construction site or made into a decorative reservoir on the site. Its depth depends on the location of the drain pipe of the drainage network. The walls of such an artificial pond must be compacted with crumpled clay, waterproofed with several layers of hydroglass isol, laid out with bricks, natural stone or poured with concrete, and the banks are decorated with water-loving plants.

Sometimes people buy an old house within the city limits to demolish it and build a new one in its place. In this case, drainage planning has already been carried out on the site, based on a deep (at least 1 m) street ditch with a guaranteed spillway towards the slope of the relief.

After the drainage of the site and drainage are completed, the surface of the site has become even and the necessary slope has been observed, the layout of the house plan on the ground begins.

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house: draining the site, arranging and proper drainage of the foundation

How to make drainage around the house and drain the site with your own hands: recommendations with photos | Online magazine about the construction site "Build a House!" - only reliable information.

The removal of ground and storm water from the foundation will significantly increase the service life and capital building, and country house construction. A drainage system that is simple in design will protect underground concrete structures from gradual erosion, and basements from flooding. But it is extremely important to prevent the destruction of the very foundation of the structure, right?

A well-designed drainage scheme around the house will help to build an efficient system for collecting and discharging natural water. We invite you to familiarize yourself with carefully selected and verified information based on regulatory documents and the real experience of builders of low-rise buildings.

We will talk in detail about the types of drainage systems, the features of their device, the specifics of operation. We will give arguments in favor of choosing a particular type of drainage. The useful information offered to your attention is supplemented with photos, diagrams and video instructions.

When designing a drainage system, first of all, determine the goals that are planned to be achieved. They may consist in draining the entire site, in protecting the foundation and basement of the house from excess moisture.

Of the existing drainage systems, two main types can be distinguished - open and deep (closed). The first one can be used for needs Agriculture, for drainage from cultivated areas. Closed drainage is used to drain water in summer cottages and cottage areas, to protect buildings from the negative effects of high groundwater levels.

The organization of the drainage system is necessary with a high groundwater table, which is especially evident during the flood period. Drainage to protect the concrete foundation from the aggression of underground water and reduce the hydraulic load

Combined drainage systems are also used. They are often supplemented with storm sewer branches designed for the disposal of atmospheric water. Provided that they are properly designed, they can significantly save on the construction of each system separately.

Image Gallery

The first and main sign, according to which the owners of the site need to arrange drainage, is the stagnation of water during the snowmelt period. This means that the soils underlying the soil have a low filtration capacity, i.e. do not pass water well or do not pass it at all

Drainage is necessary in areas with pronounced signs of soil erosion: cracks that appear during the dry period. This is a manifestation of soil erosion by groundwater, which ultimately leads to destruction.

Collection and drainage of water is required if, during the period of snowmelt and heavy rainfall, groundwater rises to the level of laying communications

Drainage systems are built in areas with a characteristic slope. But in this case, they are needed for a balanced distribution of water and keeping it on elevated sites.

Flooding of the site during the snowmelt period

Erosion and erosion of the soil under the foundation

Water at the level of laying communications

Country plot with slope

#1: Open Drainage Device

Open drainage is the simplest and most economical way to drain water, which can be used under the following conditions:

the underlying soil layer is clayey, poorly permeable to water, which is why the fertile layer, located 20–30 cm from the surface of the earth, is waterlogged;
the site is located in a lowland, into which rainwater naturally flows during a period of heavy rainfall;
there is no natural slope in the relief of the site, which ensures the movement of excess water towards the street.

Open drainage is arranged in areas with high GWL, the mark of which is most often due to the location of the land allotment in a lowland or the clay composition of soils that do not pass or very weakly pass water into the underlying layers.

The drainage system, designed to drain excess groundwater, works great in tandem with a storm drain, the work of which is to collect and remove precipitation (+)

Planning a drainage scheme is best done at the design stage of a house. This will allow you to tie the work and place the storm water inlet under the gutters to the blind area.

Open drainage is considered the simplest and does not require a diagram. It is a trench 0.5 m wide and 0.6-0.7 m deep. The sides of the trench are at an angle of 30 °. They encircle the territory along the perimeter and direct wastewater into a ditch or pit, into a storm sewer.

Areas with a slope towards the street are easier to drain. To do this, in front of the house, pull out across the slope gutter, which will retain water from the garden. Then they dig a ditch, it will direct the runoff towards the street, into a ditch.

If the site has a slope in the opposite direction from the road, then a transverse gutter is dug in front of the fence facade and another longitudinal one is made to the end of the site.

The disadvantage of such drainage is its low aesthetics and the need for regular cleaning of the gutters from silt and dirt, which periodically accumulates in them. This type of drainage is not recommended to be arranged under the road surface, as it leads to subsidence of the soil and deformation of the canvas.

The length of the lines for water flow, the number of wells and sand collectors depends on the area of the site, its topography, and the intensity of precipitation in a particular area.

Drainage ditches can be reinforced against erosion with reinforced concrete slabs, stone paving, turf with crushed bottom

If the site is considered to be more or less even, and its level of waterlogging is not too high, then the simplest drainage system can be dispensed with.

Along the foundation of the fence, at the lowest point of the site, they dig a ditch with a width of 0.5 m, a length of 2-3 m and a depth of 1 m. Such a drainage system, although it will protect against a high groundwater level, and cope with precipitation perfectly.

To prevent the edges of the ditch from collapsing, it is filled with rubble, broken glass and bricks. Having filled it, they dig the next one, it is also filled and compacted tightly. Excavated soil is used for filling low-lying places in the territory

Over time, this simple drainage system may become inoperable due to gradual siltation. To prevent this from happening, it can be protected with a geotextile. It is laid on the ground, after backfilling the ditch, the drainage layer is overlapped with it. From above, to hide the ditch, it is sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil.

#2: Building an Efficient Stormwater Drain

Storm sewerage is necessary for the accumulation and removal from the site of water that falls in the form of precipitation. It is equipped with point and linear catchment devices.

Image Gallery

Storm sewer systems are arranged to collect atmospheric water and prevent it from penetrating into the soil, and then into the underlying soil.

According to the type of water intake devices, storm sewer systems are divided into point and linear. The first are built in areas with organized drainage, the second - with unorganized

Linear water intakes have a much larger collection area than point ones. They are installed next to houses with unorganized drainage and on sites paved with a waterproof coating.

In linear stormwater, water is both collected and transported through a network of channels closed with a metal or plastic grate. In point systems, water is drained through a system of pipes laid in the ground.

Storm sewer with a point water inlet

Spot drainage channels

Water receivers of a linear variety

The structure of trays with gratings

The first type of water collectors is installed under the risers of an organized drainage system. The second type of water collectors is located under the slopes of roofs with unorganized drainage.

Water entering the sump moves through an open or closed pipeline. It is diverted either to a common well-water collector, or to a collector well, from which it moves to a centralized sewer network or sewer.

The storm water inlet is a container for collecting water, equipped with outlets for connecting pipes of a linear drainage system. Devices are made of durable plastic or cast iron (+)

Elements storm system with point water collectors are also drains, drains, dampers. Some manufacturers provide for the possibility of connecting storm water inlets with roof gutters as well as underground drainage systems.

In addition, ready-made production models provide for the presence of sand traps and waste bins, which simplify the maintenance of the system.

A device with a decorative grille installed should be located 3-5 mm lower than the level of the track, the ground

This is a system of gutters made of plastic or concrete, which are installed on the site in those places where the accumulation of water is most likely, but highly undesirable.

For a drainage well, choose the most distant place from the house, well, cellar. If there is a natural or artificial reservoir nearby, then water can be drained into it

When designing with linear water intakes, the first thing they plan is the placement of a catchment or collector well. Next, determine the location of the rotary and revision wells. Their arrangement will depend on the placement of storm water inlets and closed sewer branches.

To prevent water from the street from entering the yard, gutters are installed along the gate line leading to the yard, garage doors, as well as in the gate area. When choosing system elements to be installed on the roadway, the future load on them is taken into account.

To prevent moisture from getting inside the building, the slope of the coating in the garage is done towards the water intake grate. So water, when washing a car or thawing snow on vehicle, will drain into the chute.

Drainage trays must be installed on the porch, around the pool. They are also installed along the blind area, garden paths laid out from facing material sites

To give the storm drain a neat look, special trays made of polymer concrete and plastic are used, which are closed with metal or plastic gratings. At the entrance to the house use a special pallet for cleaning shoes.

The grate for the gutter installed near the pool is chosen plastic, white color to avoid burns on a hot summer day.

With intensive use, drainage trays are mounted on a concrete base. The higher the load class on the roadway, the greater the thickness of the concrete base should be (+)

Gutters and water intake points are connected to a drainage tank. At the junction of gutters and pipes, inspection wells are provided. They are designed to facilitate access to the system and clean it from possible clogging.

Revision wells are made mainly of plastic. In order to receive required depth, their design provides for the possibility of building with the help of special extension elements.

Placement, slope and length of storm sewer pipes - all these characteristics are very individual and depend on many conditions on the site

A wide range of system elements allows the most rational design, which will be optimal from a technical and financial point of view.

The main elements of linear drainage are gutters made of concrete, polymer concrete, plastic, point receivers, sand traps, grids (+)

#3: Building Indoor Drainage Options

Underground, closed drainage is used if the device of an open system takes up too much space on the land plot or it does not fit into the landscape picture of the territory at all. The conditions for its installation of a closed drainage system are similar to the prerequisites for organizing a network of open drainage ditches and ditches.

Closed drainage schemes are used to protect the foundation, basements from groundwater and increase their service life. By analogy with open ones, they are used to drain a suburban area from excess groundwater.

It is mandatory to organize underground drainage on the site if:

it is located in a lowland, in a swampy area;
there is a natural reservoir near the buildings;

Underground drainage can be divided into two types:

wall drainage;
trench (formation) drainage.

Both types of underground drainage are carried out at the stage of building construction. If it was decided to start the problem of drainage after the construction of the house, then a trench ring system is used. There are also limitations for the use of trench drainage. It can be used if the house does not have a basement.

The fact is that, after, backfilling the pit with sand or soil creates a looser environment between the bedrock and the foundation. As a result, perched water penetrates into this environment, and then even the presence of a clay castle does not protect the building from moisture.

Therefore, if the house has a basement, for effective drainage, it is best to do wall drainage. It is used to drain groundwater directly from the foundation of a building, to protect basements, cellars, ground floors from flooding.

You can not plant trees and shrubs near the drain. The distance to the planted tree can be at least two meters and to the bush at least one meter.

Wall-mounted limits the rise in water level, preventing it from rising above the line of drainage pipes - drains. It is believed that a drainage pipe 1 m long is capable of draining an area of about 10-20 m 2.

When arranging wall drainage, the pipe is laid along the perimeter of the building. The depth of the laying of drains cannot be lower than the base of the foundation slab or the base of the foundation. If the foundation is very deep, then it is allowed to lay the pipe slightly above its base (+)

The distance from the drainage pipe to the foundation depends on the location. They are laid in each corner (or through one corner) of the building, as well as in places of turns and pipe connections.

Revision wells are also located in places with a large difference in the level of the site and with a large length of pipes - the distance between the wells should be no more than 40 meters.

In the revision well, the pipe cannot be solid, it breaks. This is done so that if the pipeline is clogged, it remains possible to flush it using a high-pressure hose.

The whole system closes on the last well. It should be located in the lowest place. Further, the water flows into a conventional sewer or open reservoir. If it is not possible to divert water from the house by gravity, then pumping equipment is installed and it is pumped out forcibly.

To ensure gravity drainage of water, the pipes are laid to the side to the collection manifold. The slope should be two centimeters per meter of the drainage pipeline. The depth of the pipe should be greater than the depth of soil freezing.

The pipe is covered with drainage material - gravel, fine gravel or sand. The minimum layer that will ensure the flow of water into the drain is 0.2 m

To save on geocomposite materials and prevent them from mixing with the soil, geotextiles are used. It freely passes water to the drains and at the same time retains particles that lead to siltation. Before backfilling, the pipe itself must also be wrapped in protective material. Some drain models are produced with ready-made filters from geotextiles.

It is possible to increase the efficiency of wall drainage using a profiled polymer membrane, which can be two- or three-layer. One of its layers is a polyethylene film with formed protrusions, the second layer of the membrane is a geotextile fabric.

The three-layer membrane is equipped with an additional layer of smooth polyethylene film. The membrane helps filter water from the soil and at the same time serves as a waterproofing layer for the foundation of the building.

Closed trench-type drainage protects the building from flooding and moisture. It is a filter layer, which is poured into a trench at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the wall of the house.

It is better that the depth of the drain is 0.5 m deeper than the base of the foundation - so the water will not exert pressure on it from below. Between the trench with drainage and the foundation of the house, a layer of clay soil remains, which serves as the so-called clay castle.

As with the installation of a wall drainage system, drains are laid on a layer of gravel or fine gravel. Both pipes and gravel layer are protected by geotextiles from clogging.

#4: Building a Wall Drain Step by Step

In order to get a visual representation of the drainage process around a country house, consider an example. The site given in it required the installation of a groundwater drainage system, tk. under the soil-vegetative layer lie loams and sandy loams, which are extremely poorly permeable to water due to their low filtration capacity.

Image Gallery

For drainage, we develop a trench around the house. Since the work was carried out with a mini-excavator, they retreated 1.2 m from the walls so as not to damage the building. If you save manually, you can make closer. The bottom of the working is 20-30 cm below the foundation

The branches of the trench formed around the house should have a slope towards the common trench, intended for the pipe for draining the collected water to the collector well

We fill the bottom of the trench with sand. We ram it and form a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter. We direct the slope towards the common trench, the bottom of which is also filled and rammed. In the case of crossing the trench with communications, we take into account that the drainage pipes must pass below them

We prepare drains, perforated polymer pipes, for laying in a trench. We wrap them with geotextile, which will prevent clogging of the system and filter groundwater

We cover the rammed bottom of the trench with a second layer of geotextile, pour gravel on it and put drains

The channels for draining water from storm sewers and the drainage system are laid in one trench. It is permissible to divert the water collected from them into one collector and use common manholes

Having wrapped the gravel backfill along with the drainage pipe with a second layer of geotextile, we fill the trench with quarry sand. We do not use the soil dumped during the development of the trench, the sand will better pass the water to collect the drain

The common trench, to which circular drainage is supplied, is brought to the installation site of the collector well

Provide organized withdrawal water on the site are intended for drainage work, the implementation of which is planned at the design stage.

As a result, ground flows, underground inflow of groundwater, falling or melted precipitation fall into a specially equipped channel and are directed outside the courtyard of a country house.

Protect deep foundations, basement and basements, channels of supply communications from flooding will be able to ring drainage of the house, working together with waterproofing and concrete pavement.

Device principles

Loamy soils do not pass water well, and it penetrates into the cavities around the pillars of the building

To figure out how to properly drain around the house, they begin with studying the conditions for the location of the site and the results of its geological surveys.

You should not rely on the protective properties of waterproofing layers alone, since in the long term there are no ideal materials in which, when in large numbers cycles of exposure there are no weak points.

Factors influencing the choice of design and combination of different types of drainage systems for a private house:

location on the ground, the possibility of the formation of storm flows from areas located higher on the slope;
seasonal fluctuations in groundwater level (at a high level, drainage around the house is necessary, including to prevent siltation of the sand and gravel cushion and, as a result, increase the heaving of the base);
soil composition (clays and loams do not pass water well, and it is directed to looser cavities near the bearing supports of the building, filling such spaces with clay increases the heaving forces aimed at squeezing the foundation out of the soil);
position relative to water bodies, flood water rise;
average annual and maximum amount precipitation typical for the area;
building density on the site, the depth of neighboring foundations;
coatings that prevent water from seeping into the soil, collecting it in streams along the surface (asphalt, concrete paths, sheds and roofs);
discharge from a drainage system installed in a private house must also be sent to the annular drainage system (storm drains).

The device of the drainage system of the house is the creation of a calculated engineering system, which takes into account the possible combination of various factors in their maximum values.

Types of drainage

Surface drainage consists of point receivers and an output system

You can visualize what a drainage system around a house is with your own hands by analyzing the main types of such structures designed for specific drainage tasks.

They consist of a system of pipes (channels) for collecting water, located both on the surface and at the level of the foundation support.

The surface (storm) drainage of the site combines linear (trays) and point (lattices) receivers of incoming water into a system.
Surface execution is also used in cases of withdrawal of transit flows from adjacent territories beyond the boundaries of possessions.
Wall (foundation) closed drainage for the house is needed to divert groundwater and seeping water from the supporting structural parts of buildings, foundations of courtyard structures.

Equip it after the completion of the main construction works on the site, in front of the device of lawns and hard surfaces.

Water from the surrounding soil enters such a perforated pipe system and is removed through collection wells, a collector for accumulation, with subsequent discharge into a nearby natural reservoir or general sewerage system.

Ways drainage device can be:

An open type in the form of a ditch with a cross section of 0.5 × 0.5 m is chosen for large areas (significant flows) in places where they do not interfere with movement. The main advantage is the simplicity and speed of work at low cost. On landscape areas such channels perform drainage of the upper layer of the soil.
The closed-type drainage around the site is covered with plastic or metal gratings, which reduce the throughput, therefore, the drainage tray is also taken with a smaller section. It is safe for pedestrians, the installation of drainage channels is carried out on a heavily used small part of the yard. An example of what a closed drainage system looks like is shown in the figure.
Backfill drainage of the site is a channel filled with solid filler (fine stone). A laid perforated pipe can accelerate the removal of liquid from the bottom of a concrete tray. To prevent silting of the stone fraction, it is recommended to cover the bulk of the bulk material with geotextile, leaving a small top layer of 5–10 cm to protect the canvas from mechanical damage. Periodically retained dirt is removed by washing the gravel.
Deep drainage is used during construction on clay soils and areas with a high level of HW (in a lowland, next to a reservoir). The planned drainage depth around the house is 0.5 m below the base of the foundation. The beginning of drainage work coincides with the foundation - the drainage scheme around the house is taken into account in the marking of trenches / excavation, excavation of the required amount of soil.

Each type of drainage work is different in terms of labor intensity, but in terms of its characteristics, role in the protection of buildings, throughput, the types are not interchangeable.

Constituent elements

Ditches must be dug at a slope

Correct installation the drainage system around the house will require the presence of all components, the calculation of the drainage system and compliance with the installation rules.

Trenches are dug so that the annular drainage is obtained with the desired slope, using laser level(rangefinder).

The size of the slope may vary depending on the throughput of the pipe:

You can check the presence of a slope in the trench with the next heavy rain - streams of flowing water should be directed towards the well.

Geotextile

Textile - a water filter that prevents large fractions from entering the drainage pipes

The role of this material in the installation of drainage is to filter water from small impurities that clog pipe perforation holes and litter gravel.

Reducing gaps reduces the ability to quickly remove water from the area for which the ring drainage is designed.

The throughput of 1 layer of geotextile is given in technical specifications products, depends on the brand and is inversely proportional to strength:

It is laid under the pipes at the bottom of the trench and protects the entire bulk part so that the flow of water into the annular drainage outlet is not reduced. In dry sandy soils, protection with drainage pipes can be omitted.

Pipe

Corrugated pipes are the most popular

It is possible to carry out a drainage system scheme from pipes that differ not only in Ø, but also in material.

For the installation of a drainage system, products that are not prone to corrosion are chosen, since their repair or replacement is rather difficult.

Pipes from the following range are selected for the drainage device around the site:

ceramic (baked clay);
asbestos-cement;
porous;
polymeric (corrugated).

The most durable of them include asbestos-cement pipes, in other cases polymer pipes are usually chosen for the device:

The perforation of drainage pipes is applied during manufacture at the factory or holes are made, cuts are made, performing the installation of the drainage of a private house with their own hands. The gravel fraction should be larger than the size of the holes.

Well

Wells are installed at a distance of 12 m from each other

Manholes for monitoring and cleaning the system must be included in the drainage calculation.

They are located along the drainage system with a step of about 12 m.

Structurally, the manufacture can be from stacking rings, the Ø of which allows you to clean silty deposits, or industrial products presented in the table:

It is possible to collect the annular drainage of the foundation of a private house from pipes of various sizes with an increase in the Ø of the passage in the direction of movement of the collected flows. Several drainage pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm can be connected to the well. To learn how a deep drainage well works, see this video:

Functionally, a well into which water enters from drainage pipes can be accumulative (with a sealed bottom) or absorbing (water gradually leaves the soil through a layer of rubble protected from silting by geotextiles).

Pricing

The approach to prices of a specialized company and the scope of work for the construction of wall drainage is divided into categories "economy", "standard", "capital", the total amount depends on the footage of the system.

In large firms (for example, the United Company), services and prices for proper drainage around the house may have a wider range:

verified;
economical;
rational;
premium. For more information on how to equip drainage around the house, see this video:

Qualified calculation of the characteristics of all necessary elements, the ability to perform laying in compliance with specifications, in a short time frame the first time means not only rational use financial resources (with the provision of warranty obligations from the company for 24 months), but also the service life of the selected system up to 50 years.