Ventilation in the bath is a must structural element. Without proper air exchange and fresh air supply, even the highest quality wooden building capable of completely becoming unusable in 2-3 years. However, even in this short period of time, bathers will have to enjoy such “charms” as dampness, unpleasant smell, lack of fresh air.
Therefore, the installation of the ventilation system must be approached with all responsibility. It is not difficult. Moreover, in most small private baths (especially with the “Russian bath” mode), natural ventilation is the most optimal. And its construction, unlike the forced analogue, will not require the installation of expensive fans. And in some baths, it is generally created "by itself" - only due to the appropriate design of the steam room.
How is the natural ventilation system arranged?
Natural ventilation is driven by air convection that occurs when there is a difference in pressure (temperature) in the room (bath) and outside.
According to the laws of physics, the heated air in the room always rises, and the cold air descends to the floor. the main task ventilation in the bath - to ensure the flow of fresh air (cold) and displace the exhaust (warm). Therefore, when planning natural ventilation, the inlet is usually located below the exhaust. Then warm air, rising up, goes out through the exhaust shaft. At the same time, a vacuum (reduced pressure) is created in the room and fresh cool air is drawn in through the inflow near the floor. Gradually, it warms up again, rises and displaces a portion of the exhaust air through the hood. This ensures continuous convection and natural ventilation.
As extracts in a bath with natural ventilation, air vents, vents, and a stove chimney can be used. The air flow is carried out through the crowns of the walls (in chopped baths), ajar doors, ventilation openings. Both supply and exhaust openings (air vents, vents) are provided with shutters or adjustable grilles. This helps to control the air exchange in the room and prevent drafts.
There are several options for natural ventilation. Each of them has its own advantages, special functionality and some restrictions on use.
Option 1. Volley ventilation - airing
Volley ventilation is common in small Russian baths. This is the usual ventilation, which is performed either after bathing procedures, or between entering the steam room. Volley ventilation contributes to a quick change of air, drying the surfaces of the steam room.
With salvo airing, the role ventilation holes perform a door and a window leaf located on opposite walls. To change the air, they are opened for a short time after soaring (or between visits to the steam room). Depending on which direction the pressure drop is directed, air will move from the window to the door or vice versa.
The role of salvo ventilation is to freshen the air in the steam room, but at the same time not to cool the walls. Therefore, the ventilation time is short - 1-2 minutes is enough.
Option #2. Ventilation with outflow through the chimney
A stove with a chimney can be the driving force behind ventilation. When the fuel is burned, the exhaust air is drawn into the furnace blower and exits through the chimney. In order for fresh air to flow in, a gap of about 5-10 mm is made at the bottom of the door. Or loosely close it during procedures. In log cabins, when a fire is burning in a stove, air from the street is drawn in through loosely fitted lower rims.
Ventilation through the outflow of air through the chimney is only possible while maintaining the fire in the stove. If fuel combustion is not maintained during vaping (e.g. in black-baths or short-duration ovens), no air change will be performed. A more versatile ventilation system will be required.
Option #3. Air exchange through vents
Air exchange through special vents is a universal type of natural ventilation. It allows you to gradually change the air in the steam room several times during the soaring (ideally - 5-6 times per hour). With proper planning of such ventilation, drafts and a decrease in surface temperature will not be observed.
The exhaust hole is usually arranged under the ceiling, above the top shelf. It has dimensions of 15-20 cm, it is square or round. The hood is closed with a removable plug or a sliding damper (door), with which you can change the size of the hood and the degree of air exchange.
A few more rules:
- It is undesirable to place the ventilation holes at the same level opposite each other. It is highly likely that fresh air entering the steam room will immediately fly out into the hood. This eliminates the full circulation of air, but leads to the formation of a draft.
- The linear dimensions of the hood, ideally, should match the dimensions of the inlet. Or be more. If the dimensions of the hood deviate downwards, new clean air will not enter the bath.
- If you want to increase the outflow of exhaust air, the dimensions of the hood make it larger than the supply vent. Or they arrange 2 hoods for 1 inlet.
For the influx of clean air in the steam room, an inlet is equipped, as a rule, 0.2-0.4 m from the floor surface. It can be on the same wall as the hood, or on the opposite side. It is desirable - next to the stove, so that the incoming air has time to heat up and enters the soaring zone already warm. The inlet is closed with a ventilation grill so that the air is drawn into the room in separate streams, and not in a continuous stream.
Step by step installation guide
The classic workflow is:
- In the walls of the bath, two holes are made with transverse dimensions of 100-200 mm. It is advisable to form ducts even at the construction stage, so that later you do not have to carve them into finished walls. One hole is made behind the stove (or next to it), at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. The other is on the opposite wall, diagonally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
- Boxes are installed in the holes. They can be bought ready-made - made of metal or plastic. In chopped baths, it is better to use wooden boxes knocked together from boards.
- A ventilation grill is placed on the inlet, and a valve on the exhaust. If one of the holes goes outside, an insect net is installed on the outside of the box.
But this order of work is not the only correct one - it all depends on what kind of structure you have and what duct scheme you have chosen.
Advantages and disadvantages of such a system
Among the advantages of natural ventilation, the most significant are:
- simple device and easy installation;
- low cost - natural ventilation does not require the installation of expensive forced fans;
- Efficiency in work - allows you to avoid spending on electricity;
- reliability - the absence of mechanical devices makes natural ventilation practically “eternal”, not subject to breakdowns and not in need of repairs.
There are also disadvantages:
- the dependence of the ventilation force on the temperature difference in the steam room and on the street;
- in autumn and winter, cold air coming from the supply openings lowers the temperature in the steam room, drafts may occur;
- smells from the street.
Agree, the shortcomings are insignificant. In a small bath, standing on its own site, natural ventilation is the most rational solution. If there are no pools and large washing facilities inside, there is no point in overpaying for mechanical fans (for forced air exchange). If, for some reason, natural ventilation cannot cope with the functions assigned to it, you can convert it into mechanical ventilation at any time - just put fans on the holes!
State norms for ventilation of premises are regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003, the document establishes the minimum frequency of air exchange in rooms, depending on their purpose and features of use. In residential areas, ventilation must perform two tasks - to provide favorable indicators of the percentage of oxygen in the air and to remove exhaust gases.
SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Download file
For a bath, ventilation tasks become more complicated, it must additionally remove moist air as quickly as possible (fast drying of wooden structures is ensured) and regulate the temperature in the steam room. There are times when it is necessary to quickly lower the temperature in the steam room before taking procedures for young children, the elderly or big people. Bake long time continues to give off heat, wait until the bath cools down on its own, for a very long time. With the help of room ventilation, you can quickly set the desired temperature and maintain it within the specified limits all the time people stay in it.
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ventilation valves
What are the types of ventilation and the method of their calculation
Ventilation can only exist when there is an inflow of fresh air and an outflow of used air into the room. Often you can find the concept of "supply" or "exhaust" ventilation. These are not quite correct concepts, there cannot be only supply or only exhaust ventilation, it is always only flow-exhaust. Why are these terms used? Thus, it is emphasized that the supply or exhaust of exhaust air is carried out by force, and, accordingly, the removal or intake of fresh air occurs in a natural way.
Supply - exhaust ventilation
When calculating the parameters of ventilation systems, the initial data take into account the volume and purpose of the premises, the presence of special conditions according to air indicators, the presence or likelihood of the presence of carbon monoxide or other chemical compounds harmful to health. Based on these data, state regulations establish the frequency of air replacement within an hour, it can vary from 1 ÷ 2 to ten or more.
Next, engineers determine the parameters and location of the channels to ensure the necessary intake and removal of air, taking into account weather conditions and climate zone. If natural ventilation cannot provide the required frequency of air changes, then forced systems, supplying / extracting air with electric fans. Baths have their own characteristics of each type of ventilation, consider them in more detail.
Prices for supply and exhaust ventilation
air handling unit
General rules for ventilation in the bath
The principles of the ventilation device in the bath largely depend on the architectural features of its design. If the floors have slots for draining water, then supply air can also be supplied through the same slots, there is no need to make a special hole.
Quite often, small windows are installed in the bath - when opened, they “turn” into exhaust holes. In addition, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, the room can be ventilated even easier - open the firebox and, by changing the position of the damper, adjust the air change rate.
Photo - furnace firebox and open door for ventilation of the room
These are the simplest options for a steam room (by the way, the most efficient and low-cost ones), but there are cases when the furnace firebox is located in another room, there is no window, and the floors are solid without gaps. It is on such a bath that we will focus in our article. Why do you need to do ventilation in the bath?
- For better mixing of air throughout the volume. Natural convection of air masses is not able to equalize the air temperature along the height, the difference in indicators under the ceiling and near the floor can reach tens of degrees. This negatively affects the comfort of acceptance. water procedures.
- For the supply of fresh air. If one person is steamed in the steam room, and the residence time does not exceed 20 ÷ 30 minutes, then the oxygen concentration in the air will not have time to drop to critical values. And if several people steam at the same time in the steam room for a long time, then the influx of fresh air becomes mandatory.
Quite often, developers fall into two extremes: in order to save heat, they generally refuse ventilation or make it too strong and unregulated. Both extremes have negative consequences, ventilation should not be neglected, it is cheap, and the positive effect is very impressive. But it should be done correctly, taking into account the features of the premises, the requirements for the temperature in the steam room, the materials for the manufacture of walls and cladding.
In the event of a complete lack of ventilation, the risks of oxygen starvation increase and, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, carbon monoxide poisoning. In the case of strong unregulated ventilation, the heating time increases significantly, warm air is quickly removed from the room. But that's not all the problems - quick removal warm air automatically causes an equally rapid influx of fresh air - the floors will always be very cold, and this increases the risk of colds.
Uncontrolled ventilation is fraught with cold floors
The influx of fresh air in the steam room is arranged in two places: behind the stove or under the sun loungers.
There are many air movement patterns on the Internet, most of them are made by amateurs, you should not pay attention to them. Follow only two conditions: air inflow at the bottom, exhaust at the top, placement of channels diagonally across the room.
This is quite enough to ensure normal circulation and air mixing. Everything else is reasoning about nothing, they can only confuse inexperienced developers, significantly complicate the ventilation system, make it expensive and unreliable. There are options with two multi-level exhaust valves, with two supply valves, etc. The air outlets are located at different heights.
One under the very ceiling, is used only for complete ventilation of the bath after the completion of water procedures. The second is done 30 ÷ 40 centimeters below the first and is used during washing. Some craftsmen connect them together with internal air ducts, install several control dampers, etc. We assure you that these complications do not have any visible effect on the comfort of staying in the steam room.
A few words should be said about the ventilation ducts in the bath, they are often suggested to be used in steam rooms. In large buildings, ventilation ducts are used to connect several different rooms to a common ventilation system, no matter if it is natural or forced. This is quite justified from both technological and economic points of view.
And what other rooms can be connected to the steam room with ventilation ducts? Weird question. Then why make complex channels under the wall sheathing? Wouldn't it be easier to make ordinary holes in the walls and insert ordinary pieces of pipes and grates with elementary valves into them? Of course, we will talk about a real, effective, simple and cheap way to install ventilation, we will not lay any channels anywhere. This is a universal option, perfect for both "budget" and expensive exclusive pairs.
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PVC air outlet
Video - Ventilation in the bath
Natural ventilation of the bath
The most accepted option for most baths, minimal in cost and safety, and quite effective. The specific location of the ventilation openings should be taken into account, taking into account the size of the premises, the location of the shelves, the stove and the material of the building. The general rule is that the holes should be located at different heights, as a rule, the inlet (supply) 20 cm from the floor and the outlet (exhaust) 20÷30 cm from the ceiling. When choosing holes, you need to consider where the holes will be located on outer walls. It is desirable that they do not stand out too much on the facade walls.
The dimensions of the holes are approximately 300÷400 cm2, it is better to make them larger than smaller. In case of too rapid air exchange, leading to a decrease in the temperature in the steam room, the channels should be covered with control dampers. To improve the appearance, it is better to use decorative grilles, they can be purchased at specialized stores or made independently.
We wrote more about this type of ventilation in the article “. We will tell you how to organize natural ventilation, how to calculate and make ventilation holes.
Somewhat complicates the ventilation system, requires the installation of electrical equipment. Another problem is related to the microclimate in the steam room. There, high temperature and humidity are the main enemies of any electrical equipment. Fans must have reliable protection housing from moisture, during connection, the recommendations of the Electrical Installation Code must be strictly observed. And in order to comply, you need to know them.
Forced ventilation - elements
The advantages of forced ventilation - the rate of air change in the room is significantly accelerated, the control parameters are expanded. Natural ventilation is very dependent on weather conditions, in some cases it can become ineffective. Especially if the wind is at right angles to the exhaust vent. Forced ventilation works with the same efficiency in any weather and regardless of the direction and strength of the wind.
How to calculate forced ventilation in the bath and what is it like? How to choose fans? We answered all these questions in the article. There, detailed step-by-step instruction for installation of ventilation and advice from professionals.
How to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands
Initial data. architectural features baths do not provide for the flow of air through the cracks in the floor, doors, windows or furnace furnace. It is necessary to make holes for both entry and exit of air. Internal and outer skin there are no walls, the bathhouse is built of sawn timber.
Step 1. Decide on the location of the input and output channels.
We have already mentioned that it is better to place the inlet channel near the stove at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. Exit channel diagonally under the ceiling. This position of the inlet and outlet openings will ensure the distribution of air flows throughout the volume of the room. Besides, inlet air will not cool the floor. Channels should be easily accessible. There are recommendations to make an exit hole in the ceiling. We are opponents of such a decision, humid air will certainly cause great damage to the entire truss system.
Step 2 Purchase or make your own grates and valves.
They can be of various sizes and geometric shapes: round, square or rectangular. At the same time, consider the materials of the future plating of the external and internal walls, consider how decorative grilles will be attached to them.
Important. Be sure to install grilles with adjustable gaps, only they can provide smooth adjustment of the frequency of air changes in the room.
And one more thing - from the outside of the bath, the holes should also be closed. Moreover, the closure should be as airtight as possible, to prevent moisture from rain or snow from getting on the log house crowns.
Step 3 Make holes in the walls.
The most time-consuming operation, you have to work manually. Pre-in the marked places, you need to drill holes around the perimeter. The closer they are to each other, the easier it is to gouge the wood later. When the holes are drilled, take a chisel, a chisel and a hammer in your hands and begin to destroy the timber bridges remaining between the holes. Ventilation holes should be made 1-2 cm around the perimeter more than the inserted pipe. The fact is that then this pipe must be insulated to prevent the appearance of condensate on wooden structures.
Use only a sharp chisel and a chisel - the timber will have to be cut across the fibers, this is quite difficult. If the thickness of the beam is 20 centimeters, then it is better to make half the depth of the hole from the inside of the bath, and the second half from the outside. If you have extensive experience using a gasoline saw, then you can cut a hole. But we immediately warn you that it is very dangerous to work with a gasoline saw in such conditions. You will have to cut with the end of the tire, while grabbing the tree with the lower part of the chain, the saw will be pulled out of your hands. This way of using the saw is strictly prohibited by safety regulations, remember this.
If there is a need to dilute the inlet in the wall and in the bath, then buy a pipe with an elbow. It is advisable not to use round pipes, but rectangular, they occupy less space under the lining of the inner walls of the steam room.
Be sure to seal the joints of the elbow and pipe with silicone and wrap with adhesive tape for reliability.
Scotch metallized
Step 4 Lay foil around the perimeter of the holes or polyethylene film And mineral wool, the cotton wool layer should be dense, without gaps. It will not be possible to make the edges of the hole absolutely even, carefully make sure that the waterproofing is not damaged by the sharp protrusions of the timber.
Step 5 Insert the pipes into the holes in the log house. They should enter with little effort, quite tightly. In order to increase the reliability of sealing and fastening, be sure to walk around the perimeter of the hole and pipe with foam. Mounting foam eliminates all invisible passes of thermal insulation between the pipe and the wall and firmly fixes it in the desired position.
We recommend foaming the holes and after wall cladding, the foam will eliminate the gaps between the wall and the vapor barrier. During the expansion of the foam, the vapor barrier will press tightly around the uneven hole, all possible small damages will automatically close.
The pipe to the hood may not be insulated, warm air comes out through it. But we advise, just in case, to do all the operations for her. First, you will lose a little time and money. Secondly, you will make additional and reliable protection against penetration to wooden structures atmospheric moisture.
When both holes are prepared, you can start upholstering the walls and install decorative grilles with adjustable throughput parameters.
Important. We strongly advise you to ventilate the space between the wall cladding and the aluminum foil during the installation of steam room ventilation. The work is performed according to the above algorithm with one difference. Ventilation should be either permanently closed (during the adoption of water procedures) or permanently open (during the airing of the bath). Using foil as a wall vapor barrier has many benefits. But there is one problem - the difficulty of removing condensate between the skin and insulation. An ordinary hole solves all problems and completely eliminates damage to wood.
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heat resistant fan
Video - DIY ventilation
How to make a hole in a log house with a crown
If you do not want to make holes for ventilation manually, you can drill them with a special metal crown. They are sold in stores and are inexpensive. The only problem is that the crown requires a powerful low-speed drill or a hand-held drilling machine; ordinary drills can quickly fail due to a heavy load. Another limitation is that the maximum diameter of crowns is rarely more than 120 mm. But for most baths, small volumes of this size are enough.
Step 1. Choose a drill bit of the appropriate diameter and secure it in the chuck. Mark the drilling site.
Step 2 To lighten the cutting force, be sure to lubricate the bit with machine oil. Lubrication should be repeated periodically. Once the bit is about two-thirds deep, stop drilling, remove the bit and re-lubricate its inner and outer surfaces.
Step 3 Mark the center of the hole with any thin drill. Insert a crown into a shallow hole and start drilling the beam.
Step 4 Drill as long as the bit height allows. Carefully monitor the operation of the electric tool, do not allow heavy loads. Loads are regulated by the force of pressing the crown to the bar.
Step 5. The crown does not work further - take it out and gradually remove the cut wood with a chisel or chisel. It is removed quickly, start gradually chipping holes in the corners. Don't cut the log across the grain with the chisel, only chip it along the grain, it's much easier to do the job.
Repeat the steps until the hole is through. If the timber is so thick that the drill cannot go through it on one side, go to the other. To do this, you need to find the center of the already made hole as accurately as possible. The crown has its own centering drill, but its length may not always be enough to reach reverse side. You will have to find the center yourself. To do this, install a thin wood drill in the drill, insert it into the existing hole from the center drill of the crown and very carefully make a through hole. The more precisely you drill the center, the easier and faster it will be to work on the other side of the wall.
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hole drill for wood
Video - How to drill a hole with a crown
Bath ventilation with heating
Enough original way ventilation devices, not only fresh air lends itself to the bath, it is immediately heated. This is very important in winter, as it is possible not only to increase the comfort of your stay, but also to speed up the heating of the premises and save firewood.
The air intake is made at the bottom of the bath and with the help of electric fans is fed into the air intake duct.
The stove has a metal chimney, a special screen is installed around the chimney, air from the duct enters the screen channels. The screen performs two functions: it protects the limbs from burns and serves as a radiator for heating the air coming from the duct. The heated air exits the screen into the steam room.
If desired, you can slightly improve the design. Install a tee with a damper on the air duct. This will allow you to take both air from the bathhouse and from the street - the possibilities for regulating the parameters of the microclimate in the room are significantly expanded.
Video - Ventilation in a steam room with heated air
A high-quality ventilation system is an indispensable element of the steam room. The absence or improper organization of ventilation in the bath is dangerous to human health. A properly equipped system will protect people from carbon monoxide and improve the comfort of staying indoors. We will talk about the features and technology of installing the ventilation system in the bath later.
Characteristics of proper ventilation for the steam room
Proper ventilation in the bath performs several functions at once:
- provides the room with oxygen;
- improves the comfort of staying in the steam room;
- removes carbon monoxide;
- allows economically expedient to spend firewood;
- evenly distributes air flow;
- protects the building from the formation of mold or fungus.
by the most the best option ventilation in the bath is supply and exhaust. For these purposes, equip:
- air inlet - through them an influx of fresh air into the steam room is organized, a fan with a ventilation tube is installed, additional air inflow is provided by open windows or through the door;
- exhaust hole - the removal of heated air from the room, through the furnace, blower or devices that improve traction.
To improve the supply and exhaust ventilation system, use various ways. We offer you to get acquainted with one of the most effective ventilation systems:
1. The supply openings are located at the bottom of the room, next to the firebox.
2. Exhaust openings strictly on the opposite side from above. It is possible to organize two holes at once for better air control.
3. The height of the exhaust port determines the draft level. If the vent is low, additionally reinforce the system with a vent pipe.
4. With the help of special dampers, the air supply from the room is controlled.
5. The air in the steam room is renewed every 2-3 hours.
In addition, the individual parameters of the ventilation system are determined by the type of room, the version of the bath. For example, in a Russian bath, periodic ventilation will help renew the air. In addition, the size and location of the installation of the furnace are taken into account; in relation to this parameter, two types of ventilation are organized.
How to make ventilation in a steam room with a separate firebox
We offer a variant of the organization of ventilation in the steam room, the firebox of which is located in the next room. This scheme is popular in ordinary Russian baths. To bring the firebox to an adjacent room, a furnace tunnel is used. Among the advantages of this arrangement of the furnace, we note:
- lack of garbage in the steam room;
- the door to the room opens only at the entrance;
- the possibility of mounting heat-resistant glass for admiring an open flame.
There are two ways to install air inlets in a room:
1. Arrangement of the ventilation duct in underground space. Removing it in front of the furnace room, installing ventilation grilles on the channel.
2. Floor supply of ventilation.
On the opposite wall, install the hood, diagonally in relation to the air inlet.
The main quality of the organization of proper ventilation is that the supply openings should coincide in area with the exhaust ones.
Ventilation scheme in a steam room with a firebox indoors
If the stove-heater is located directly in the steam room, then the organization of ventilation is different. In this case, air flows through the blower solve the problem with natural ventilation. This method is appropriate if the fire in the furnace is constantly.
If chimney in the bath is absent, and the furnace operates in a short-term mode, a more advanced ventilation system is used. Familiarize yourself with the technology of arranging the ventilation system in the steam room:
1. Build a special brick podium on which the oven is installed. With its help, a ventilation duct is supplied to the furnace.
2. Lay the ends, build another box of bricks. As a result, the first design is installed at the top of the furnace channel, and the second - to the door of the steam room.
3. On a wall adjacent to a regular room, build doors in the places where the masonry passes. They heat the next room, if necessary.
4. An oven is installed on the podium, it can be mounted on a corner or on steel paintings. Finish the furnace with brick, install a brick screen, with two convection valves.
5. The exhaust ventilation system operates due to the furnace furnace.
Correct installation of the ventilation system is based on its correct adjustment. General rules for managing the ventilation system:
- at the beginning of the furnace furnace, all openings and supply and exhaust are closed;
- wait for the temperature to rise, then adjust the vents with valves;
- if it is necessary to increase the volume of oxygen in the room, open the inlet;
- upon completion of work, open the shutters for better ventilation of the steam room.
Steam room ventilation photo:
To determine the temperature and humidity in the room, use special devices. An alcohol thermometer can help you measure temperature. electric type. Please note that the use of the mercury version is strictly prohibited. Use a hygrometer to determine the humidity level.
The principle of operation of the ventilation system is based on the following factors:
- melting the oven, the air is gradually heated and exits through the convection door;
- the lower door remains open until the oven is fully heated;
- close the door from below and work with the top hatch;
- in the process of soaring, only the blower installed on the box opens;
- after using the steam room for its intended purpose, ventilate the room well.
Do-it-yourself ventilation device in the steam room
The main functions of the ventilation system in the bath:
- air supply during bath procedures;
- high-quality room drying.
The ventilation system in the bath should not:
- violate the temperature of the room, in the process of taking bath procedures;
- to separate temperature flows, that is, cool air is closer to the floor, and warm air is from above;
- remove unused air from the steam room.
In addition, the lack of ventilation leads to the appearance of unpleasant air in the room, the formation of mold and fungus, which are harmful to human health.
There are three main types of ventilation in the steam room:
- the natural option is the supply of air flows through the pressure difference;
- mechanical option - air supply using special mechanisms, when measuring these characteristics with instruments;
- combined option - the creation of artificial pressure by fans and hoods.
There are two types of air transport in the room: supply and exhaust. For these purposes, a hole located diagonally with respect to the inlet is equipped.
It is not recommended to install an exhaust outlet in the steam room on the ceiling; this ventilation system increases the warm-up time of the room. It is rational to install the hood under the ceiling, additionally equipping a damper on it to adjust the draft.
In addition, provide a ventilated floor in the bath. Thus, the period increases floor covering because it is in constant contact with water. Recommendations for the arrangement of floor ventilation:
1. During the installation of the foundation base, ensure the ventilation of the floors, build vents from the basement.
2. On opposite walls, build ventilation holes that provide air flow. Install gratings on them to prevent rodents from entering.
3. The finished floor should be slightly higher in level than the blower is located. Thus, it will function as a hood.
4. Install wooden planks with a small gap, at least half a centimeter.
5. After taking bath procedures, ventilate the room well and dry the floors.
Another way to organize the ventilation system in the bath is “According to Bast”. In this case, fresh air enters the room from the ward space, and exhaust from the hole located near the door. For these purposes, build an exhaust box made of wood, lined with foil inside.
Build a ventilation duct under the floor, next to sheet metal to prevent heat from getting into it. The size of the structure should not exceed twenty percent. Adjusting the flow of fresh air through such a system is quite simple. It is enough to open the vent and blower. In addition, it is possible to avoid the accumulation of an unpleasant aroma in the steam room. This method of organizing ventilation is appropriate if the firebox is located directly in the steam room.
Ways to organize ventilation in the steam room with your own hands
We offer five of the most popular organization schemes supply ventilation in the steam room:
1. Scheme No. 1.
Install the inlet under the stove 50 cm from the floor, and the outlet on the opposite side, thirty centimeters from the ceiling. The forced movement of air masses is provided by a fan. Thus, it is possible to ensure uniform heating of the air. The height of the first opening regulates the draft force of natural ventilation.
2. Scheme No. 2.
Two ventilation holes are located on the same wall, always opposite the stove. The inlet is installed at a distance of thirty centimeters from the floor, and the outlet is thirty centimeters from the ceiling. Install a fan in the outlet, the cooled air, entering the room, collides with the stove, heats up and exits.
3. Scheme No. 3.
Position the inlet behind the stove, at a distance of about twenty centimeters from the floor. The inlet is installed at the same height, only near the ceiling of the opposite wall. A hood is installed in the second hole. The principle of operation of the system is based on the ingress of cooled air into the steam room, passing through the oven and pulling out the second hole.
4. Scheme No. 4.
This method is relevant for a steam room with a floor that has holes for water to drain. The inlet is installed behind the furnace, and the outlet is a drain pipe through which air is vented to the outside.
5. Scheme No. 5.
Relevant for a bath with a constantly working stove. The inlet is arranged opposite the stove, and the blower with a chimney acts as an outlet
If it is necessary to increase the temperature in the steam room, it is enough to close all the plugs. After taking bath procedures, they are removed. It is quite possible to organize these ventilation schemes on your own, without buying expensive appliances and special material investments.
How to make a vapor barrier for a steam room with your own hands
Vapor barrier in the steam room allows you to maintain optimal temperature premises. Special materials in the form of vapor-tight films, insulation and waterproofing will help create high-quality vapor barrier. The film provides protection of the insulation from the penetration of water vapor, while not letting in the moisture that is in the hot air.
Qualitatively equipped vapor barrier and ventilation system increase the service life of the room itself and its exterior finish. Since hot air rises, first of all, vapor barrier the ceiling with high quality.
For these purposes, use lahi, boards, about 6 cm thick. From above, they are covered with aluminum-based foil, cardboard with increased density or waxed paper soaked in drying oil. After fixing one of these materials, the ceiling is finished with clay and insulated.
In addition, the edged board will help to vaporize the ceiling. On the boards, cardboard impregnated with drying oil is installed, which is then sheathed with wooden clapboard.
Expanded polystyrene boards are a modern replacement for soft clay, they are distinguished by good thermal insulation and performance characteristics.
As vapor barrier materials for the walls of the steam room use:
- ruberoid;
- aluminum foil;
- glassine;
- film based on polyethylene.
Glassine and roofing material for thermal insulation of the steam room are rarely used. This is due to the fact that with strong heating, they emit toxic substances and unpleasant odors. The steam room is vapor-proofed with special foil materials. Allocate combined methods of vapor and thermal insulation. For example, NPP polypropylene, among its advantages we note:
- excellent resistance to moisture;
- resistance to temperature increase;
- laminated coating prevents the development of mold and mildew;
- combined thermal insulation.
In addition, it is possible to use rolled vapor barrier in the form of rolled foil or fiberglass boards. To seal the joints between vapor barrier materials, use foil tape.
The plates are installed on the ceiling with a small compensation gap of 20 mm. Thus, the effect of moisture on these areas is reduced. Please note that the vapor barrier in the steam room must be securely hidden behind the main finishing material, and a high-quality ventilation system is its complement.
Ventilation in the steam room video:
The old days, in which people didn’t care which bathhouse they bathe in, have already passed. Nowadays, it is important that this room performs its functions with high quality and correctly. An important point is the ventilation in the bath. This applies to the floor and the entire steam room. It has been proven that the well-known effect of healing, which can be obtained from all procedures in the bath, is impossible if ventilation is not arranged. Moreover, ventilation is important in all rooms: steam room, washing room, locker room and rest room.
It is important to remember that this is not just a whim - it is a necessity. It's about your health and the health of your family. How can you make ventilation in the bath? Is there any specific pattern? How to ventilate the floor in the bath? All this you will learn further.
What is the correct scheme of the ventilation device
What is ventilation anyway? Simply put, ventilation is the exchange of air in a room. It's no secret that the product of human exhalation is carbon dioxide. If the room is not ventilated, that is, fresh air is not supplied to it, then it will be filled with this gas. At this time, there will be little oxygen in it. Then the atmosphere becomes "stale", it is difficult and unpleasant for you to breathe. The consequences of this phenomenon are many, up to severe headaches.
That is why it is important to make the ventilation of the room, whether in the house or in the bath. The ventilation system functions quite simply:
- In the bath, holes (intake vents) are made through which fresh air enters it. Most often, these holes are located below.
- When it mixes with the atmosphere in the room, which is much warmer due to the operation of the stove, there is a distribution of air flow throughout the bath.
- Other vents are made from above, through which the exhausted or “stale” air leaves the room.
Note! The ventilation outlet must be larger than the inlet. Otherwise, fresh air from outside will not flow in.
Thus, airing of any bath is arranged. It is important to ensure good air exchange for a pleasant and comfortable stay. It is important to take into account several points:
- exhaust vents should not be made in the ceiling, as the room will cool very quickly;
- the dimensions of all ventilation openings are selected taking into account the size of the room (25 cm 2 is needed for 1 m 3);
- it is imperative to make valves on the holes, thanks to which you can regulate the flow.
Properly performed air exchange should constantly provide the room with fresh air in order to enhance the healing effect of soaring. In addition, due to it, after all the procedures, the room can dry quickly. Since it is about wooden bath moisture can damage the material. If you properly ventilate, you can avoid the following consequences:
- Decrease in temperature due to the intake of cold air from outside.
- Negative influence on the distribution of heat flows.
- Removal of hot and humid air from the steam room, in which there is no carbon dioxide.
But, the ventilation scheme may not be one. There are several of them.
Types of ventilation in the bath
Depending on the device, the ventilation of the premises may be different. There are 3 main types:
- Natural.
- Mechanical.
- Combined.
The natural ventilation scheme is the one we discussed above. Everything happens naturally, due to the temperature difference, according to the principle of convection. In addition, this includes the effect of wind pressure through cracks in the wall, window and door openings.
If we talk about the mechanical system, then all the work is done by special devices (fans), which draw out the exhaust air and fill the bath with fresh air. Accordingly, a combined system is a combination of these two types together to enhance the effect.
Advice! It is especially important to ventilate the floor and the bath for those who have stoves powered by gas or liquid and solid fuel. To maintain the combustion process, these units take oxygen from the bath.
Do I need to ventilate the floor
Why is it so important to make ventilation under the bath floor? The thing is that it contributes to the exchange of air in all sections. Most often, wood is used to make the floor in the bath. Since it will constantly interact with water, it must be removed. If you do not dry the floor, then after 5 years it will simply become unusable. And nobody wants this. How can you ventilate the floor in the bath? Is there a specific pattern?
Yes, here's what you need to do to ensure good ventilation of the base:
But in order for the floor ventilation system in the bath to function as it should, it is necessary to provide a full range of ventilation. Let's find out how you can make the natural ventilation of the bath.
Arrangement of ventilation in a natural way
Why are we considering this kind? Because it does not require large investments of funds and is quite effective. To do everything right, you need to take into account some points and rules. For you to understand how such a scheme is made, look at the photo below.
Let's start by placing holes through which air will flow from the outside. They should be located at the bottom of the steam room, next to the stove. For what? So that it warms up and does not cool the room. Then more fuel will be needed to heat it. In addition, vents do not need to be made with dampers, they must be open all the time.
The second hole, exhaust, must be placed on the opposite wall or diagonally. It is important that it has a larger size than the bottom one. For what? For normal operation. As for the placement, we said that it should not be done on the ceiling. Step back 30 or 40 cm and make it into the wall. But in this exhaust hole you can mount an adjustable valve, which you can buy in the store. The air that will be drawn from the steam room can be sent to the dressing room, saving on its heating. It's like an option. In another case, it is taken out to the roof through a pipe system.
In order for bath procedures to bring only benefit and pleasure, two conditions are necessary:
- high level of temperature and humidity in the steam room;
- the presence of a sufficient amount of oxygen.
These seemingly mutually exclusive tasks are solved by ventilation in the bathhouse in general and in the steam room in particular. Despite the fact that high humidity and temperature should be maintained in the steam room of the Russian bath, one cannot do without access to fresh (cold) air: oxygen is processed by our lungs, partially burned out by the stove, and carbon monoxide (CO - chemical formula carbon monoxide).
How to make ventilation in the bath. In the figure, red arrows show the movement of hot air, blue - cold
If you do not organize the replacement of “exhausted” air with fresh air, instead of improving health and increasing efficiency (this is what we go to the bath for), you can get lethargy, weakness and headache, and at worst - a hospital bed or even a place in the cemetery.
Properly arranged ventilation provides air circulation, while oxygen enters in sufficient quantities, and carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide are released into the atmosphere. After the end of the bath procedures, with good ventilation, the steam is actively removed outside the building, and the rooms in which there was previously high humidity dry out. If this aspect was not given sufficient attention, after a couple of years in the steam room, and then in other rooms, the lining rots, the smell of mustiness and sweat appears and gradually increases, and the wood turns into dust. Now, I hope, it is clear whether ventilation is needed in the bath ...
Heating and ventilation of the bath. Please note that the exhaust hole is located at a low height from the floor - as a rule, not higher than 50 cm. With this scheme, exhaust steam is emitted into the atmosphere. Moreover, the floor in the steam room warms up well Ventilation in the bath is not needed in only one case: if it is all built of wood and has not been insulated anywhere - neither inside nor outside. In this case, air exchange occurs due to the fact that the wood "breathes". Even in this case, they talk about the presence of natural ventilation in the bath: any wood has pores and crevices through which the outflow / inflow of air occurs, temperature and humidity are regulated. But if there is insulation or moisture / vapor insulation in the bath from rounded logs, then the creation of additional ventilation holes is necessary.
There are three types of ventilation:
- mechanical ventilation. In this case, the inflow and outflow of air masses occurs due to artificially created air movement. Air parameters are controlled by technical means.
- Natural ventilation: circulation occurs due to the difference in pressure inside and outside the room. This method is possible only if there are "breathing" walls or thoughtfully arranged ventilation vents.
- Combined ventilation: simultaneous use of the natural movement of air masses and technical devices(in the simplest case - fans).
The video below shows a variant of combined ventilation.
In a particular case, during the construction of the ventilation duct, aluminium foil 100 microns thick.
Bath ventilation device
In the very simple version, the ventilation system of a steam room or bath consists of two (sometimes more) holes in the walls and / or foundation: supply and exhaust. The whole trick is in choosing the location of these holes and in their sizes. Sometimes, to provide more active air exchange, fans can be installed.
Heating and ventilation of the bath. In the simplest case, the exhaust vent is located near the ceiling There is no single ventilation scheme for a bath: they are too different, as design features as well as the materials from which they are made. But there is general rules and some of the most common schemes, adhering to which, you can choose the optimal ventilation for your particular case.
The dimensions of the ventilation openings are calculated based on the volume of the steam room: for one cubic meter ventilated area, the size of the holes should be 24 cm 2.
Despite the fact that the main task in the bath is to maintain high humidity in the steam room and a sufficient level of temperature, it is impossible to make the ventilation holes too small: they will not provide the necessary level of air exchange. Exhaust vents must match the size of the supply: if the proportions are violated, air exchange will also be insufficient. In some cases, to speed up the removal of exhaust air and speed up the drying of the bath, two exhaust holes can be made.
To ensure the required air conditions when heating the steam room, special covers / plugs are made on the ventilation ducts that can be opened / closed from the steam room, thereby regulating humidity / temperature / air exchange. Generally speaking, the presence of plugs or covers on any vent facing the street is a must: in winter, cold air actively tends to warm room and the presence of covers or regulators to delay it is necessary.
Where can there be supply and exhaust openings
Most often, at least partially located in the steam room. In this case, the supply hole is made near the furnace at a distance no higher than 30 cm from the floor. The incoming cold air quickly warms up from the furnace and rises. It's quite popular, but not the most The best way organization of ventilation for the bath. Much more efficient ventilation in the case when the supply holes are located in the foundation under the floor (so that rodents do not penetrate through them, the holes are equipped with metal bars). This option solves two problems at once: it delivers fresh air to the bath, and also effectively dries the floors and walls after the procedures are completed. Floor boards, in this case, are not laid close, but with a small gap for free passage of air. If you don’t want to leave gaps in the floor (although this is very good for a bath), you can make several ventilation holes in the floor, covered with wooden grates. The movement of air in this case will not be so active, more powerful fans, but the circuit will still work.
When planning the supply vents in the foundation, keep in mind that the air in the bath should come from the street, and not from the underground, otherwise it will have a musty smell. To organize air intake from the street, a box made of wood (often home-made), plastic or metal (ready-made) is placed in the hole, and it is also taken out near the stove. Usually, the inlets are located in the area that is protected by a metal or asbestos sheet from coals and firebrands.
Ventilation openings in the foundation are provided at the planning stage. If the foundation is already ready, but there are no ventilation holes, you can make the floor ventilation in the steam room differently: lay the floor boards on the logs, but not close to each other, but with a gap of 0.5-1 cm. In the gap between the draft (earth / concrete) floor and the finishing floor, an outlet is arranged, which passes into a ventilation pipe that leads the exhaust air to the roof (but not to the attic). This option provides for the presence of only one inlet, which is usually arranged below the heater. The exhaust pipe under the floor is installed on the opposite side of the room (but not opposite, but obliquely).
It is impossible to make an exhaust pipe in a steam room from plastic boxes for ventilation - they do not withstand high temperatures, but it is acceptable to use them in the locker room or washing department.
With such a ventilation scheme in the steam room, cold air warms up near the stove, rises up, then, cooling down, falls down, seeps through the cracks in the floor under the floor and is discharged through the outlet pipe. These two options effectively remove moisture after the bath, they can also be considered floor ventilation schemes in the bath.
Exhaust openings can be located on the opposite wall from the supply opening (if both of these walls face the street) or on the same wall, but in the opposite corner. There is a scheme in which they are located at the top on the opposite wall (30 cm from the ceiling), sometimes they are located below (30 cm from the floor). If the exhaust vent is at the bottom or on the same wall as the supply vent, a fan is needed to create airflow.
In order for the ventilation in the bath to remain effective, it is impossible:
- make ventilation vents smaller than calculated ones;
- position the supply and exhaust openings one opposite the other - so the incoming air is almost immediately removed without giving up oxygen, a draft is formed, which is contraindicated for a bath.
Steam room ventilation schemes
Consider some of the most common options for ventilation in the steam room:
These are the most commonly used ventilation schemes for steam rooms in the bath, there are many more variations and combinations. Based on these four options for organizing ventilation, you can develop a scheme for your steam room.
Ventilation in the washing section of the bath
In the washing room, high humidity is a common thing, and so that the lining does not rot or an unpleasant smell appears, it is necessary to provide floor ventilation. It is arranged similarly to floor ventilation in a steam room: an exhaust hole is made between the rough and finishing floors, which can be equipped with a fan. exhaust pipe goes out to the roof.
With this scheme of floor ventilation in the washing compartment, the coldest exhaust air is removed, and warmer air descends in its place. upper layers. Thus, an increase in the comfort of the people living here is also achieved.
The principle of the ventilation device in all other rooms of the bath is the same. Need to decide on optimal system ventilation specifically for your conditions and choose / design the most suitable scheme. The ventilation in the washing department differs only in that, due to lower air temperatures, plastic ventilation ducts can be used here (which cannot be done in the steam room) and fans can be installed not heat-resistant, but only tolerating high humidity (moisture-proof).
Brick and Turkish bath ventilation
When planning a ventilation system for brick bath it must be taken into account that its efficiency should be several times higher than that of wood. Indeed, in this case, it will be necessary to dry not only inner lining steam/washing/changing rooms, but also walls: brick is a very hygroscopic material. To remove all moisture, it is necessary that the inflow / outflow of air during the drying period be very active, and the vents should have reliable dampers that allow you to adjust the intensity of air movement.
When arranging ventilation with its 100% humidity, exhaust ventilation must also be very efficient: in an hour of operation, it is necessary to ensure six changes of air in the room. In addition, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of removing condensate, which forms during cooling in large quantities. There are two ways to solve this problem: install an air dryer in the pipe, which removes condensate to the sewer system, or provide for ventilation pipe a channel for draining condensate (it also goes to the sewer).
Conclusion: it is necessary to plan ventilation at the design stage of the bath, placing supply vents in the foundation. If necessary, you can make vents in the finished walls, but this is quite troublesome and difficult.
