How to properly insulate a wooden bath from the outside. Do-it-yourself warming of the walls of the bath. The sequence of work on insulation

Experts recommend insulating bath buildings from the outside so that the temperature is well maintained in them, and heating costs are minimal. In addition, thanks to external thermal insulation the building will be protected from the effects of precipitation and cold air masses, which will significantly extend its service life.

The bath is being insulated from the outside different ways depending on what material was used in its construction. For buildings erected from logs or skinned logs, it is recommended to seal existing cracks and crevices, since thick wood itself retains heat well. From the inside, they usually insulate the washing room and the steam room.

The insulation of a bath from a bar outside depends on how thick it is, as well as on the climatic conditions in the region. Be sure to insulate buildings built of blocks and bricks, since these materials have high thermal conductivity, and to maintain the temperature, the thickness of the walls must be more than 80 centimeters, which is fraught with high costs. Therefore, such bath buildings will certainly be thermally insulated.

External insulation of log baths

Thermal protection of such buildings is reduced to the elimination of gaps. During the construction process, a special jute insulation is laid between the crowns, but over time, the wood begins to dry out, cracks and gaps appear, which have to be fixed regularly.

After the completion of the construction of the log house and the elimination of deficiencies, the building should stand under the roof for at least six months. During this time, it is advisable not to use the bath. The frame will shrink, the tree will dry out, and new cracks will appear that should be caulked.

For this purpose, a special insulation made of linen and jute is used. Since jute retains heat excellently and does not ignite, but is easily torn, flax fibers are added to it, which eliminate this problem. Thin pieces of insulation are hammered into the cracks using a metal caulk blade and a hammer. The work is done carefully so that the building does not skew.

In addition, when choosing how best to insulate the bath from the outside, you should pay attention to a special sealant - to fill the gaps, you just need to squeeze the mixture from the syringe directly into the voids.

The log cabin continues to shrink for two years. Experts advise not to sheathe it during this period. finishing materials so that there is access to emerging cracks that have to be periodically eliminated. To protect the insulation from various precipitations, it is necessary to cover the bath with a film from the outside, fixing it with strips.

Two years after construction, finishing can be done. Buildings made of logs can be sheathed with dies, clapboard, and besides this with a block house, imitation of a bar. First, a crate is installed on the walls. If it is wooden, then it must be treated with impregnations that have antibacterial and fire-resistant properties, and then they are checked with a building level for horizontal and vertical compliance.

A finishing material is attached to the crate, which is then coated with varnish or other protective agent. If metal guides were purchased, then they are fixed on special suspensions.

Warming wooden bath outside is not produced, since the logs themselves retain heat well. They insulate the building from the inside - usually a steam room and a washing room. But if you still want to insulate the building from the outside, then a vapor or hydrobarrier is placed on the material that is afraid of moisture, fixing it with strips, on which the finish is then mounted.

Thermal insulation of baths from a bar

External insulation of bath buildings from a bar is carried out in the same way as in the case of a log building. The building must also be settled, since cracks also appear in it, which have to be sealed.

As for the question of how to insulate a bath from a bar from the outside, the choice depends on the climatic features of the region, the thickness of the walls. This work is carried out if the thickness of the timber for a given type of climate is not enough to effectively retain heat.

Warming occurs as follows:

• carry out the crate using a beam or metal guides, exposing the elements in two planes - vertical and horizontal;
• install thermal insulation materials;
• equip moisture and wind protection;
• make counter battens (this is not a mandatory stage of work, but there must be a gap between the protective film and the finishing material);
• perform the finishing touches.

The outside of the bath is sheathed with clapboard, siding, edged board, block house, metal profile and other materials. Finishing of wood after finishing must be covered varnish composition for outdoor work, sometimes they are additionally painted before this, although many modern mixtures also have a slight tinting effect.

When siding was used as a finishing material, it becomes mandatory to arrange a ventilation gap between the skin and the insulation. To create the crate, it is recommended to use guides, which can be purchased at the same place as the siding. They are attached to special suspensions.

Thermal protection of brick baths

Often the question arises of how best to insulate the bath from the outside or from the inside if it is made of brick. Such buildings must be thermally insulated, since this building material has a high thermal conductivity, and without external thermal protection it is extremely difficult to warm the premises to the desired temperature.

The sequence of arrangement of insulation remains the same:

1. Frame.
2. Insulation.
3. Wind and moisture insulation.
4. Ventilation gap.
5. Finishing.

It is recommended to use mineral wool as an external insulator. Solving the problem of how to properly insulate the bath from the outside or from the inside: it should be borne in mind that mineral wool not suitable for internal works, because when heated, it begins to release formaldehyde. Outside, you can protect a brick building with polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene plates (they are more expensive, but last a long time) and foamed glass (the main disadvantage is high cost).

In order to improve the quality of thermal insulation, experts recommend laying two layers apart, with an offset of half the length - this allows you to reduce heat loss by overlapping the seams. True, this method is more expensive, since the material is required 2 times more, and besides, it takes a lot of time to work. For this reason, insulation is usually produced in one layer, laying tightly one mat to the second, and the joints are connected with reinforced tape.

For sheathing a brick bath, siding is used or wood paneling. Another way exterior finish- the use of plaster, if foam glass, polystyrene or polystyrene plates were chosen for thermal protection. In this case, over this material the reinforced mesh is laid, the primer is placed and then the plaster is applied.

They also use the following method, how to insulate a bath from the outside with their own hands - following the example of a ventilated facade. In such a situation, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall with a gap of 1 centimeter less than the width of the insulation. Then, plates or mats of insulation are tightly fixed between them.

For reliability, they are strengthened with dowels, although this is not mandatory - the material will hold well on its own, for the purpose of which such a fixation step is taken. The joints of the plates are connected with reinforced tape or processed adhesive composition, lay a waterproofing film on top and fasten with planks. After that, guides are mounted on the brackets, which hold the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for finishing. According to this algorithm, baths made of cinder blocks, foam blocks, aerated concrete can also be thermally insulated. It will also be useful for you to know how to insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own handsto minimize heat loss.

Exterior decoration of baths from blocks

As for how to insulate the bath from the outside, for a block structure it is allowed to use the same options as in the cases described above. Another way is to decorate the bath building with a decorative brickwork, but this method can only be used if the building is constantly maintained at a positive temperature.

If a decision is made to lay out a bath of blocks with bricks, then an additional wall can be made incompletely, stepping back 5-10 centimeters. Thanks to this, the thermal insulation performance will improve somewhat. The gap is either left empty or filled with heat-insulating material - processed sawdust, expanded clay, and so on.

In order to prevent moisture from collecting in the space between the walls, small ventilation gaps are created in the outer walls, and short pieces of fastening reinforcement are driven into the carriers to securely fix the finishing structure.

Today, a block house is very popular - a finish that imitates a wall of logs. It is produced from various materials: wood, vinyl (PVC), metal. The building, sheathed with a block house, looks like it is made of natural wood.

If the question arises of how to insulate an old bath, then the work is carried out in the same way as when building a new one, depending on the material from which it is built. In conclusion, you can sheathe it with finishing materials, and the building will again look attractive.

Insulation of the bath is an important event, without which it will not be possible to maintain a high temperature in the building. In addition, heating costs will be reduced. Regarding the problem, how to insulate wooden bath outside - then its solution depends on what building material the building was quickly erected from. The work is simple enough to handle on your own. After warming the bath, all that remains is to finish the finish with a suitable material - and it is completely ready for use.

In contrast to the equipment of residential premises in spa areas, internal and external energy-saving claddings play a completely different role. The relevance of the external thermal insulation of the walls of the bath depends, first of all, on the mode of its operation. In most cases, the procedure is not mandatory and requires a feasibility study. This review discusses the insulation of the bath from the outside with your own hands from an organizational and technological point of view.

If the owner assumes occasional use of the object for its intended purpose (no more than once a week), he expects the steam room to cool completely between sessions. That is, the internal insulation is equipped on the basis of rapid heating with a rise in temperature from the street to 60 ° C - 90 ° C. In this case, the installation of thermal insulation from the side of the street does not make sense: in winter, this measure will not save the building from freezing for 3-4 days. The cooling of the room will slow down, but in the end, it will be necessary to spend almost the same amount on each heating of energy as in the absence of outer insulation.

When using the steam room every 2 - 3 days, the question "how to sheathe the bath outside?" is no longer idle for materials with high heat capacity (brick, concrete). Daily operation (for example, for commercial purposes) makes it advisable to cover the bath with insulating materials on both sides, regardless of type bearing walls.

Another option for using a bath that justifies double-sided insulation, regardless of the heat capacity and vapor permeability of the draft walls, is to conduct several paired sessions in one day. At the same time, the bathing day itself may not be repeated often.

Sealing the joints of the bath-log house

You should immediately make a reservation: the insulation of a wooden bath from the side of the street is, as a rule, not in the installation of additional layers, but in sealing the interventional joints. This operation does not refer to external insulation, but to the provision of basic thermal insulation, the role of which is played by the structural material. Nevertheless, if the owner of the log cabin has enough time, he may well caulk it qualitatively on his own.

Outside insulation with jute rope

The seals laid at the joints of the logs work as a hydrophobic element and a wind barrier. They eliminate heat transfer by convection and, at the same time, are decorative elements emphasizing the aesthetics of a log structure. Specialists involved in the arrangement of log cabins recommend using a jute cord for external sealing.

In some cases, it is permissible to caulk a wooden bath from the outside with latex or rubber-based sealants. However, this is permissible only in those baths in which there is no interior decoration. The condition is related to the prevention of moisture condensation between the wall beams, which can be provoked by sharing internal insulation and external vapor-tight sealing.

Continuous external thermal insulation depending on the material of the load-bearing walls

How to insulate the bath from the outside, if it is not intended to seal the joints, but to install a thermally insulating lining? Consider the types of load-bearing walls:

Before warming the bath, a competent calculation of the thickness of the insulation layer is necessary

• Brickwork or concrete structure. The types are combined into one category, since they belong to inertial buildings that have a high heat capacity and a high allowable moisture accumulation.

• Foam concrete and gas blocks. They occupy an intermediate position between log cabins and brick baths.
• Srub. Requires strict consideration of the relative vapor permeability of each layer of the insulating sandwich.

Brick or concrete walls

Of the two ways to select a heater relative to the structural material, it makes sense to use the dew point shift technique. What does this mean? A thermal insulator with a vapor permeability close to zero is taken (for example, polystyrene foam) and glued to the draft wall. The inner insulation also contains a vapor-tight layer - a foil infrared screen. It turns out that the moisture condensing in the thickness of concrete or brick has nowhere to evaporate.

To prevent waterlogging, it is necessary to ensure that the dew point is located outside the draft wall - in polystyrene foam. To do this, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the outer insulation to approximately the value of the thermal resistance of the wall 4.0 - 5.0.

IN middle lane In Russia, this corresponds to a thickness of XPS boards of 200 mm.

The material will cost a decent amount, but the budget for the work will be less than when implementing the ventilated facade technology (with mineral wool, air gap and molded finishing facing). In addition, self-pasting walls with XPS boards is much more affordable for a non-professional than any other methods of external thermal insulation. During everyday operation of such a steam room during inner lining only a reflective screen and clapboard lining should be left. For the mode of pair sessions 2 - 3 times a week, it makes sense to divide the estimated thickness of the insulation into 2 layers: 150 mm for outer surface and 50 mm for interior cladding.

Choice finishing from the side of the street should be correlated only with the budget, the possibility of independent implementation and personal aesthetic preferences. From the point of view of the insulation sandwich physical properties this layer is absolutely irrelevant. If there is no desire to mess with plaster, you can finish the bath with any relatively light slabs or panels that are moisture resistant. The main thing is not to use chemicals that can destroy polystyrene foam.

Foam concrete and gas blocks

Insulation of the bath from the outside with polystyrene foam

How to sheathe a bath built from cellular materials? For independent holding work should stop at the same polystyrene foam.

The only difference with the previous version of the bath will be that the thermal calculation will require a smaller thickness of the XPS layer (120 - 150 mm), all other things being equal - the climate, the thickness of the masonry and the given value of the heat transfer resistance of the wall sandwich.

log cabin

This idea may seem strange, but sometimes a log house needs a “fur coat”. Especially when it comes to re-equipping a bath with a change in the purpose of the object (for example, from personal to commercial). The only insulation whose vapor permeability is higher than that of wood is mineral wool. However, the downside of this venture is associated with the high complexity of the work. You will need:

1. Stuff horizontal slats to form a crate.
2. Lay rolled or slab mineral wool.
3. Hang the windproof membrane, grabbing it with a stapler to the crate.
4. Mount the vertical slats of the counter-lattice, which form the ventilation gap and serve for installation finish coat(for example, wooden or plastic lining).
5. Lay a high-diffusion membrane (hydrobarrier) along the vertical rails.
6. Install decorative cover.

Myths about the goals and results of external insulation

Often in informational texts and on forums you can find the following statements:

• “It is imperative to insulate a brick bath from the outside. Otherwise, it will be problematic to warm it up to the required temperature.” Note: the speed of heating the steam room to a much greater extent depends on the competent arrangement of internal insulation.
• “For expanded polystyrene, it is best to use the “wet facade” finishing system so that the wall “breathes”. Note: XPS boards have practically zero vapor permeability, which cannot be increased by any coatings.
• “It is relatively cheap to buy foam glass granulate and use it as a filler for heat-saving cladding blocks.” Note: such a granulate, both in the form of fillings and as the basis for the formation of cellular concrete, is an order of magnitude inferior to the heat-shielding properties of block foam glass. In fact, it is no better than expanded clay.

Video: the main mistakes in the external insulation of the walls of a wooden bath

conclusions

If it is initially planned to insulate the outer surface of the walls, it is necessary to carry out a series of thermal calculations and coordinate the parameters of all layers - from the infrared screen of the steam room to the decorative finish of the facade. At the same time, the amounts saved on energy saving should be commensurate with the difference in capital expenditures, taking as the goal the achievement of a certain payback period.

There are no bad or good heaters. The temperature and humidity regime of multilayer walls is provided by the entire system, and not by one insulator. Therefore, an approximate schedule for the operation of a steam room should determine the choice of not only facings, but also the structural material of the walls. The denser the schedule, the more in demand is the inertia (high heat capacity) and high permissible moisture saturation:

• for daily sessions - brick or concrete walls;
• 2 - 3 days a week - walls made of foam concrete, foam glass, gas blocks;
• once a week - log cabins and frame baths.

Internal insulation can be chosen based on convenience self-assembly. With the outside, the situation is much stricter. Several characteristics of the insulator should be coordinated with the properties of the structural material of the walls at once.

Insulation of the bath outside and inside is a multifaceted event, which is labor intensive and multifaceted. The main requirement is to strictly follow the technological requirements. The process depends on the main material used to build the bath. Traditionally, these are wooden modules, foam blocks, bricks and a log house. No less important criteria is the period of rest inside, as well as the climatic features of the region.

There are many heaters on the market. The choice in favor of one or another solution depends on the insulation technology, available resources, financial resources and support from professional builders.

Bath insulation technology outside

The technology of warming the bath from the outside depends on the materials from which the object was built - wooden shields, frame elements, log house, cinder blocks, bricks. Each of them has its own strength, heat capacity, bearing capacity. The heaters are also different. Let us dwell in more detail on each of the options for wall insulation.

Warming of baths from a log house

A bathhouse based on a natural log house is a traditional version of the construction of real Russian baths. A distinctive feature of wood is its high heat capacity, while the diameter of each log can be up to 20 cm, in connection with this it is extremely important to insulate the bath. Main reasons:

• Over time, the log house gives a certain shrinkage. Even if the bath is assembled without a single gap, after a few months the situation can change in the most radical way, because. in the process of shrinkage, old cracks open, and new ones.
• The better the insulation of the bath is done outside and inside, the faster it will warm up to the optimum temperature regime(70-80 degrees).
• You can purchase a less powerful stove, as well as reduce overall fuel consumption.

« There are many reasons for warming the bath with your own hands, the procedure must be carried out without fail».

Block baths

To date building blocks are the most profitable and affordable building materials, widely used in modern construction. They are also used for the construction of steam rooms. The insulation of a block bath does not have any radical differences from the insulation of brick buildings.

First of all, the building must be covered with a “fur coat” to ensure optimal temperature conditions in the rooms. Additional insulation requires only a steam room - a rather small warm "layer" based on mineral wool, a hydro-barrier or insulating foil.

Due to such insulation, it is possible to quickly warm up the interior and maintain the temperature for a long time. Insulate the bath from the blocks from the inside wooden clapboard from aspen or linden. A distinctive feature of the insulation is the minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity.

Work technology:

1. On the base of the walls are fixed with a crate of natural wood pre-treated with an antiseptic.
2. The upper part of the waterproofing layer is covered with mineral wool, while their maximum thickness should not exceed 10 cm.
3. When insulating a bath from blocks, it is also necessary to protect the insulation itself; for this, isospan is mainly used.
4. The material is covered with decorative trim.

« Note! Insulation of a bath from a gas or cinder block is carried out using a similar technology».

Insulation of a brick bath

The main feature of a brick is that it quickly gives off the accumulated heat to the surrounding space, therefore, such a bath will cool down quickly. Such a wall does not have any gaps or cracks, but despite this, the heating process is long. In the context of which, professionals strongly recommend approaching the insulation of a brick bath thoroughly and responsibly.

"Insulation Pie" assumes the presence of the following constituent parts: insulation material, waterproofing layer and decorative trim.

Professionals traditionally prefer mineral wool, due to its fire resistance, high thermal insulation and strength characteristics. Insulation to protect against moisture and precipitation requires an additional layer of isospan. Practice has proven that this material is able to perfectly protect mineral wool from excess moisture and eliminate the risk of fungus formation on its surface. As a result, thermal insulation lasts much longer in comparison with unprotected material.

And if everything is very clear with the insulation of a brick bath, then the decorative finish is not limited to any prescriptions or recommendations. It all depends on the available financial resources and the client's own wishes. For this, siding or wall paneling is quite suitable.

1. Metal brackets must be screwed into the base of the wall, maintaining a step equal to the width of the insulation material. Experts recommend making a margin of 1-1.5 cm.
2. Mineral wool is laid in the space between adjacent brackets. Taking into account that the width of the insulation is somewhat larger, it must be pushed in with a certain force, especially in the corner areas. Due to this, the plates can be held between the brackets on their own.
3. When insulating a brick bath, the connecting sections between adjacent plates are carefully glued with construction tape.
4. The top of the insulation is insulated with isospan.
5. At the final stage, wooden beams are fixed at the brackets, which serve to fasten the decorative material and serve as a holding element for the insulation.

Features of insulation of wooden frame-panel baths

main feature frame-panel bath from brick - structural lightness. Heavy insulation is not suitable for her. At the same time, the weight of mineral wool is small. But if you add to it decorative trim, it is easy to get a significant weight, under which the walls will give deformation.

Insulation of frame baths is best done using lightweight foam. The advantages of polystyrene are obvious - hydrophobicity, heat capacity and durability. To insulate a frame bath made of wood, it is not at all necessary to use additional frame. Styrofoam can be planted on a special glue.

As decorative plaster wall plastering can also be used.

« note! A number of experts recommend insulating frame baths not with polystyrene foam, but with mineral wool, because. Styrofoam is subject to deformation and destruction when heated».

Warming the bath from the inside

The technology of warming the bath from the inside is similar to that of log buildings. And if the insulation of the bath from the outside is an obligatory step in the process of creating a suburban building, then in the case of the internal one there is no unequivocal opinion. Many specialists prefer to process only the foundation, roof and ceiling area.

Let us dwell in more detail on the features of internal insulation (the technology is similar for brick buildings).

Why is a log cabin still worth insulating from the inside?

The crowns of a wooden bath are distinguished by crowns, the diameter of which is up to 20 cm. If you carry out a competent and thorough caulking, then no additional insulation is required, and if it is needed, then for several reasons:

• The log crowns have a small diameter.
• Required additional insulation frame baths or their brick counterparts in the foundation area.
• Additional insulation is required due to the climatic features of the region.

As for other cases, it is enough to confine ourselves to a good vapor barrier of the ceiling, roof and floor insulation.

Internal insulation of a brick bath

Note! According to the technology presented below, absolutely any baths can be insulated: from a gas block, foam block, brick or log house. The process is carried out in several stages: insulation of the base, floor, ceiling zone and roof structure.

Features of thermal insulation of the foundation

Depending on the quality and thoroughness of the thermal insulation of the foundation, the final rate of floor heating will depend. Without high-quality insulation of a brick bath at the base, there is a possibility that the floor will be cold enough. In the context of which, the thermal insulation of the base should be approached thoroughly.

First of all, the foundation is insulated with expanded clay. The thickness of this material should be at least two thicknesses of the bearing walls (if the width of the walls in the bath is 20 cm, then it is better to take expanded clay 40 cm thick). The base plinth must be protected with mineral wool.

Floor insulation

For thermal insulation of concrete floors, it is required to use rigid mats based on mineral wool. If one was not at hand, you can also use foam, which forms a reliable “puff” of the screed. And here in the steam room concrete floor no "warm floor" required. You can equip several wooden gratings. As for the washing, additional heating is required here. Such insulation of a brick bath allows you to significantly increase the comfort of being in a room.

In the process of insulating the walls of a building, the main criterion is the efficiency and quality of the vapor barrier. To do this, you need to use reflective insulation. During the installation of the vapor barrier, it is extremely important to work in such a way that a small air gap is formed between the waterproofing film and the finishing layer. Experts strongly recommend using a special crate, which is fixed on top of the "mirror" layer.

WARMING THE BATH VIDEO

The questions of how to insulate the bath from the outside or from the inside, how to do it right, have already brought many sleepless nights to many owners of private households. After all, it's not a secret for anyone to fully enjoy the rest, inside the building you need an easily created and maintained microclimate that is optimal for each room. To a greater extent, it will depend on the thermophysical properties of the enclosing structures. For example, a steam room should not only heat up quickly, but also keep the set temperature parameters as long as possible. At the same time, one could safely be in the rest room, hiding behind only a towel. And even if you install a heavy-duty heat generator, burn exorbitant amounts of fuel or spend extra tens of kilowatts of electricity, and leave the walls “cold” - with a high degree of heat transfer, then unpleasant drafts will always walk inside the building.

In this article, we will analyze the most practical ways to insulate a bath from the outside with our own hands, in which cases they are preferable to internal ones, and also dispel some misconceptions on these issues. Read about thermal protection technologies from the inside on our website

Picture 1

When is the insulation of the bath outside selected?

By general rule improving the thermal properties of household buildings, effective thermal insulation should be placed outside. What is the reason for this requirement? The fact is that water vapor migrating through the walls to the street, when the temperature drops, condenses in the thickness of the structures, and in winter it generally turns into ice. Neither wood nor stone materials can withstand such an impact - the former rot, while the latter defrost and crumble. Therefore, the thermophysical system must function in such a way that:

• ensure the operation of the walls at positive temperatures;
• prevent moisture from entering them.

In practice, the best fulfillment of the first condition is easier to achieve by equipping an external heat shield. That is, the walls in the bath will be located from the street behind a layer of thermal insulation - in a warm zone. However, we still have a factor of high humidity, and extreme temperatures (in the steam room) should also be taken into account. Therefore, perhaps ideal solution the bath will be insulated from the outside, with the creation of a high-quality reflective internal vapor barrier made of roll foil or foil paper (Fig. 2).

Why is it possible? Firstly, the efficiency of the thermal insulation system depends on the competent selection of raw materials for it and compliance with the technology of their installation. Secondly, there is also a practical moment of warming the walls of the bath, associated with the mode of its operation, which is rarely taken into account even by experienced builders.

Influence of the mode of use of the bath on the design of the thermal insulation system

Internal thermal protection will reduce the preparation time for hygiene procedures. After all, the walls are practically taken out of the energy contour of the building, so it is unnecessary to warm them up. Air masses in a closed volume are quickly brought to the required temperature by a heat generator of even the smallest power. On the contrary, sheathing the bath with insulation from the outside leads to the fact that the walls also have to be heated. It is more costly for initial stage, but allows leveling short-term temperature jumps. Simply put, the arrays of enclosing structures involved in the energy exchange increase the comfort of using the bath structure.

From the foregoing, we can conclude that the owner of a private building, deciding how to insulate the bath, for its irregular use, can choose the internal option. For constantly heated buildings, as well as in which several visits are steamed at once, it is better to consider the arrangement of street energy-saving cladding.

We select materials

Today, many effective thermal insulation materials with similar thermal conductivity coefficients λ= 0.03-0.04 W/m*C. This is where their similarity sometimes ends, since there are a number of important parameters on which the technologies for their application depend. The most important characteristic for warming the walls of the bath from the outside is also the coefficient of vapor permeability (μ, mg / m * h * Pa). After all, no matter how good the vapor barrier you make, moist air will find ways to migrate through the walls to the outside. Therefore, steam must be able to escape freely into the atmosphere without accumulating inside the walls or insulating material. Otherwise, the accumulation of dampness cannot be avoided, which is fraught with damage and destruction of both the wall itself and the thermal insulation. To avoid this, two rules should be followed:

1. Minimize the amount of migrating steam through the building envelope. The solution is the installation of a high-quality pra-insulating membrane from the inside of the building, the arrangement effective ventilation premises.
2. Providing conditions for free diffusion of steam. Solution - materials are selected according to the condition of increasing their coefficient μ towards the outer surface of the building.

Is it possible to insulate the bath with foam from the outside?

Even if we do not take into account the low environmental performance of expanded polystyrene (EPS, EPS) and its fire hazard, then the installation of such plates on the walls almost completely blocks the migration of moisture. In addition, the insulation of the bath with foam plastic violates the principle of the ratio of the coefficient μ between the inner and outer layers. Paying attention to the data from Table 1 for the most likely combinations of materials, it becomes clear that the steam simply will not have time to vent through the cladding plates.

As a result, condensate will begin to accumulate on the outer boundary surface of the wall, with all the ensuing (literally and figuratively) negative consequences.

Table 1.

From the same table 1, it is obvious that whether it is the insulation of a wooden bath, brick or foam blocks, an increase in the coefficient of vapor permeability to the outside is possible if the enclosing structures are covered with mineral wool or ecowool. Then, all the steam that has penetrated the thermal insulation layer from the walls will have time to erode.

How is the insulation of the bath outside?

General requirements

Thinking over the design of the future energy screen, it is not enough just to choose an effective heat-insulating material, you also need to correctly assemble a heat-insulating system based on it. Sometimes it is called "pie", meaning only the outer layers. However, the system of the thermal circuit of the building, when insulating the bath from the outside, consists of all layers, starting from interior decoration and ending with the facade (Fig. 5). Understanding the individual functionality and requirements for each of them contributes to the practical success of the event as a whole.

vapor barrier

Bearing building envelope (Fig. 5)

Regardless of the material, it must comply with the condition of airtightness as much as possible. Therefore, all possible places for blowing cracks, cracks, joints are sealed.

thermal insulation layer

Its fit to the wall should be tight, excluding air pockets. The presence of such cavities contributes to a significant reduction in the energy-saving effect due to blowing and the formation of condensate. The same requirement applies to joining. individual elements material - its plates or strips.

Wind protection for insulation for bath walls

Prevents wind erosion of thermal insulation, as well as the penetration of cold air flows into the thickness of the material.

Ventilated gaps

They can be on both sides of the wind protection or only on the outside, which is dictated by the properties of the films being mounted. They ensure the removal of moisture both migrating from the premises through the walls, and getting from the outside through possible defects or damage to the facade cladding.

Facade cladding

Its functions are protective and decorative. It protects all internal layers from natural factors (UV radiation, precipitation, wind), as well as artificial mechanical influences.

It is worth adding that Figure 5 shows how to insulate a wooden bath using ventilated facade technology. For walls made of brick or aerated concrete blocks, the scheme will be similar. In addition, the energy-saving system is in no way inferior in terms of its thermal properties and technology. wet facade(Fig. 6). In this case, the functions of wind, hydro, mechanical protection and decorative coating are placed on special vapor-permeable plasters. Nevertheless, for baths built from wood materials, which are the majority in Russia, a ventilated coating is still preferable.

Practical moments of warming the bath from the outside with your own hands

By opting for the manufacture of an external heat shield with a ventilated gap device, you get a reliable, durable facade system. If you show maximum accuracy, use only materials recommended for these types of work, then the exterior of your building will delight for many years, and it will not need repairs.

So, let's analyze the practical aspects of how the bath is warmed from the outside with your own hands. We believe that the internal vapor barrier layer has already been installed or will be installed at the stage of facing the premises.

Walls

Walls made of brick or other block building materials are inspected for cracks or voids in the seams, which should be further strengthened with mortar (wipe, embroider). It is even better if, from the side of the premises, they are completely covered with a layer of vapor-proof plaster.

According to the classical technology, wall insulation in a bathhouse, the box of which is made of logs or timber, begins with caulking tow, linen strands, jute or other natural materials(Fig. 7). The operation is best performed after the end of the complete shrinkage of the structure, which depends on the timing of the initial moisture content of the wood (it can take several years). Otherwise, gaps will still appear, and eliminate them under the inner and outer skin will be problematic.

There is also more modern way sealing interventional and other cracks using sealants. For bath walls made of wood with normal humidity, it can be used almost immediately after their construction, but “raw” log cabins should still be allowed to stand for at least six months. Usually they wait out the winter, and closer to the summer they start processing the seams.

Such sealing, in contrast to the classical one, guarantees stable functionality regardless of the occurrence of multidirectional deformations of the wood. Synthetic sealants have good adhesion to the substrate, work both in compression and in elongation up to 300%. Before their use, the seams of the bath walls are primed from the outside and sealed with a cord made of extruded polyethylene foam. The method of laying the sealant depends on its packaging. The tape is most convenient - it is removed from it protective film, it is placed in the seam and rolled. If you purchased the composition in tubes for mounting gun(Fig. 8) or buckets, then after application it still needs to be smoothed with a spatula (Fig. 9).

Energy saving screen frame

Insulation of baths on the outer surface of the walls using mineral wool or ecowool requires the installation of a frame support. Initially, it will serve to securely fasten the layer on the enclosing structures. effective thermal insulation, and then to fix the wind barrier and install the facade cladding. The frame may consist of one (Fig. 10, b) or two tiers. The second type with a cross-layer arrangement provides best performance thermal protection (Fig. 10, c).

crate

Guides in tiers are smooth, planed, well-dried bars or boards (pos. 3 and 6), treated with wood compositions with antiseptic, hydrophobic and flame retardant effects. Their cross section will depend on the tiering, the method of attachment to the wall, as well as the thickness of the thermal insulation (Fig. 10, b, c, d). Usually bars or boards with a thickness of 25-50 mm are used.

To create a ventilated insulation of the bath from the outside, you can also use a carrier system based on metal profiles- galvanized, aluminum or even stainless. However, such structures (especially the last two types) are much more expensive, so small private developers often prefer lumber guides.

The step of the frame elements, both for the main and for the facade body kit, is taken based on the dimensions of the thermal insulation (pos. 4), as well as the installation requirements for the protective and decorative coating with which you plan to sheathe the bath from the outside. For dense laying of mineral wool, the distance between the guides is calculated as the width of the sheets of material minus 15-20 mm. For example, for a sheet with a width of 610 mm, it will be 590-595 mm. It is convenient to cut rolls with a width of 1200 mm along, in this case the gap between the bars is taken equal to 580-585 mm.

Mounts

Sheathing elements for established buildings can be fixed to rigid metal brackets or bars (pos. 7). At the same time, for log cabins (even after the end of their shrinkage), it is still recommended to fix vertical guides using a floating method. Its meaning is that the system facade insulation baths should not take the loads arising from the deformation of the walls. To do this, the vertical guides (pos. 3) are fixed at the bottom rigidly, and further along the length in one of three ways:

• longitudinal through grooves about 200 mm long are cut in the lathing bars, through which self-tapping screws with washers are inserted and screwed into the wall or into horizontal guides;
• fastening is carried out through brackets with slotted holes;
• U-shaped clamps are used, in which the vertical elements of the frame can slide freely.

With bunk insulation of a wooden bath, if the starting bars are placedhorizontally (pos. 6), then they are always fixed rigidly to the walls, since slight compression is not dangerous for the first layer of mineral wool.

Heat insulating layer

The principles for choosing the type of thermal insulation have already been mentioned above, in the section “Selecting materials”. If you choose ecowool, then, although it is an effective material, you will have to involve third-party specialists who have the appropriate equipment for applying it under pressure. The existing alternative method of free-filling ecowool is not the most good decision for walls, since its column becomes denser over time, sags, which leads to a violation of the integrity of the thermal circuit of the building. Therefore, do-it-yourself warming of a bath is easier to organize using mineral wool products made of glass or stone fiber.

Attention! When purchasing such products, you should carefully familiarize yourself with the scope of its application. For example, it can be designed to solve problems of acoustics or fire protection, while its thermal resistance will be inferior to the corresponding profile materials.

Producers of mineral thermal insulation wool They produce it as a standard or universal version, as well as specialized products for the assembly of ventilated facades. Narrow profile products can have useful advantages:

• tongue-and-groove locks along the perimeter of the slabs, which simplify the insulation of the walls of the bath, and also exclude air circulation at the joints, even with a single-layer placement;
• fiberglass coating, which reduces the movement of convective currents through the insulating layer;
• additional hydrophobic impregnation, due to which the dropping liquid is not held between the fibers, but flows down freely.

Universal or specialized mineral wool used for facade systems of household buildings must have a density of at least 35-40 kg / m 3. With a decrease in this parameter, heat transfer in all its forms increases: convection, thermal conductivity and radiation. The maximum density for reasons of profitability,usually choose no higher than 80 kg/m 3 , since heavier and more expensive products are used already in industry.

The fixation of the insulation plates on the walls of the bath is carried out due to their tight fit in the frame of the crate and point compression with dish-shaped dowels (Fig. 10. Pos. 5).

Wind protection and ventilation

The windproof sheet (Fig. 11) is fixed on the vertical elements of the supporting frame (Fig. 10, pos. 3), with spacer rails of the ventilated gap (battens for mounting the cladding, Fig. 5). In this case, preference should be given to special vapor-permeable wind-moisture protective membranes, which are rolled directly over the layer of insulation for the bath.

Important! At similar installation the use of roofing material, PE films and other hermetic materials is not allowed. The vapor permeability of the wind barrier should be at least 700-800 g * / m2 per day.

The joints of the strips are glued with adhesive tape intended for such work. The average overlap of adjacent canvases is 15 cm, and the width of the ventilation gap between them and the cladding ranges from 2 cm to 5 cm (the parameters are set by the manufacturer).

Facade cladding

One of the main advantages of ventilated facades is that, regardless of the type of building box and its condition, you can sheathe the outside of the bath with one of the materials presented in the construction market in a wide range. It can be vinyl or metal siding, wall paneling, block house, fiber cement board, other hinged cladding. Such a finish is mounted according to similar schemes, the main uniqueness of which is dictated by the dimension of the step of the remote crate. For example, for vinyl siding it is about 40 cm.

External insulation of a bathhouse using a ventilated facade system allows not only solving energy saving issues for new buildings, it can radically change the aesthetic characteristics of even a dilapidated building, practically providing it with a new life.

When building a bath (it doesn’t matter - brick, wooden, expanded clay concrete blocks or any other material), you need to worry not only about building a solid and robust design. An equally important issue is thermal insulation - protecting the building from heat loss. performed quite simply but according to certain rules.

This is a crucial nuance for any building, however, for a bath, due to the need to hold high temperature, it is the most relevant.

It doesn’t matter what kind of building you have - a small “box” of blocks covered with corrugated board, or a whole house with lounges - you need to work on both sides: both inside and outside the building.

1 On the importance and necessity of thermal insulation

The atmosphere prevailing in the steam room can be described in two words: hot and humid. To be precise, the temperature in the bath (we will consider the traditional Russian as an example) reaches about +80 degrees (or even higher - up to +90), and the humidity is about 70%..

It goes without saying that such conditions are not easy to maintain, and this depends not only on the power of the stove. You can install even the most expensive unit, but if the bath is not properly insulated, it will not be of much use.

The necessary conditions simply cannot be created, and if it does, it will be very difficult to maintain them: the heated air will easily go outside. To summarize the above, we can form the following list of disadvantages of the lack of insulation:

• an increase in heating costs (it doesn’t matter what the stove is running on - much more fuel will be required, which means you will have to pay more);
• acceleration of equipment wear (due to the fact that the furnace will have to be loaded more);
• slow heating of the steam room.

In addition, we should not forget about the negative effects of moisture and cold on the building itself. Regardless of what it is - brick or expanded clay concrete blocks - in any case, the building will deteriorate.

This happens due to the fact that in winter (or in general - at sub-zero temperatures), moisture that gets into micropores, as well as into cracks, joints and holes, freezes, while increasing in volume. At the same time, it cannot be ignored.

And since there can be more than one hundred (!) of such freeze-thaw cycles per season, in just a few years the surface of the walls will be covered with a network of cracks, and over the years the process will accelerate.

Add here also the sharp temperature drop that occurs during the heating of the steam room: let's say it's -30 outside, and the temperature of the walls quickly, literally in an hour (depending on what your bath is made of and how powerful the stove is), will rise to +70 and above. It goes without saying that a drop of about a hundred degrees will also not be useful for construction.

1.1 Why insulate the outside?

When insulating a bath with their own hands, many often believe that the first step is to isolate the steam room from the inside. This is true - after all, it is in this room that it is required to maintain the desired temperature. can serve as an excellent material.

However, the use of only internal insulation shifts the dew point - it is just between the insulation and the surface of the walls. As a result, moisture begins to accumulate, and the building itself, again, remains unprotected.

So, in addition to internal work, do not forget that the insulation of the bath from the outside is an equally important and relevant issue. In addition, additional thermal insulation will not be superfluous - the use of another layer of insulation outside the walls will further improve the microclimate inside the steam room. By the way, it is quite simple

2 How to insulate?

To isolate the bath from the inside, you can not use any insulation - materials that are afraid of moisture are not recommended. And if applied, then with a serious and properly used waterproofing.

Outside, things are better - there is no exposure to such an amount of moisture, which means that the choice of materials that can be used is also increasing. For walls (it doesn’t matter what kind of bath your bath is - brick, or made of expanded clay concrete blocks), it is most relevant to use any insulation from the list below:

1. Minvatoy.
2. Styrofoam / Styrofoam.

The first two materials can also be used with your own hands: such insulators do not require special knowledge and experience. The third heater will already require the services of specialists. Let's take a closer look at each of the mentioned insulators and figure out exactly how to use them with your own hands to insulate walls.

2.1 The use of mineral wool (video)

2.2 Insulation with mineral wool insulation

Mineral wool insulation has been used for several decades, and judging by the fact that the number of products on this basis continues to grow, there is still a demand for it. An alternative to minvata is.

Despite the fact that now there are many other insulators that are of better quality, more reliable and easier to use, such materials are still relevant.

Mineral wool is usually sold in rolls or in slabs. For walls, of course, the second option is more convenient - rolls are best used for horizontal surfaces. Moreover, it can be applied to

The thermal conductivity of the product is not the best: this figure is in the region of 0.04 W / mK (depending on the type and brand). However, since the insulation will be attached from the outside - this is not a significant drawback - it can simply be used in a thick layer. But some properties of mineral wool make it not the most successful material:

• poor resistance to moisture - under the influence of moisture, the material crumples, cakes;
• increased complexity of work (compared to foam);
• the need to use protective equipment for the skin and face.

Of the tangible advantages (apart from relative cheapness), one can single out the fact that mineral wool can be mounted even on flat surface walls with protrusions and height differences.

The process itself, if you do it yourself, looks something like this (the list of stages is the same for both a brick bath and for building from expanded clay concrete blocks):

1. The surface of the walls is checked - they should not have cracks, chips, holes. If there are any, they should be sealed with plaster.
2. Wooden framing is being installed.
3. A vapor barrier film is glued to the wall (this item can be skipped).
4. A heater is placed between the crate.
5. A waterproofing film is stretched over the crate (when insulating with mineral wool, this is a mandatory nuance).
6. The cladding material is being installed.

2.3 Application of foam (video)

2.4 Insulation with Styrofoam or Styrofoam

Insulators from the category of gas-filled plastics have also been known for a long time. The brightest and most popular representative is ordinary foam. This insulation is extremely easy to use - we can easily install the blocks with our own hands, even if before that you didn’t know how exactly this was done.

It is not surprising that this particular material is widely and universally used to isolate various parts of buildings, including how.

Its better and more efficient "brother" is extruded polystyrene foam. This insulation is distinguished by better thermal conductivity (approximately 0.03-0.035 versus 0.04 for polystyrene) and complete resistance to moisture. By the way, it can be produced with his participation.

The materials themselves are similar in appearance, have a small weight (which, again, makes it easier to do it yourself) and are absolutely identical in terms of application. By the way, with regard to the work itself - such a heater does not require any precautions (like mineral wool).

However, for laying blocks, it is required to have a perfectly flat surface, which somewhat complicates the process. The very sequence of actions with your own hands is as follows (the same for brick building, and for the construction of expanded clay concrete blocks):

1. The surface of the walls is checked - they should not have cracks, chips, holes. If there are any, they should be sealed with plaster, then applied.
2. The surface of the walls is primed at least 1 time.
3. Starting from the bottom corner (any) and moving sideways, the foam / EPS is glued to the surface with a special adhesive solution (sold in the same place as the insulation itself).
4. Each of the blocks is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws (approximately 5 pieces per 1 sheet).
5. The joints between the sheets are glued with adhesive tape, or foamed. Alternatively, you can simply cover them with plaster.
6. A waterproofing film is stretched over the insulation on the crate.
7. The installation of the facing layer and further finishing is in progress.

2.5 Application of PPU (video)

2.6 Insulation with spray foam

Relatively new technology insulation is sprayed polyurethane foam. This insulator is liquid - it is obtained by mixing two components. Preparation is carried out directly at the place of work, in a special installation.

The capacity of such units is equipped with a stirrer - to maintain the desired consistency of the solution. Better and more expensive models are also equipped with heating (necessary for the same purposes).

You can stop on this material. The insulation itself can be safely called ideal: it is lightweight, not afraid of moisture or any other negative factors (rodents, mold), and has a minimum thermal conductivity (around 0.025 W / mK).

In addition, the surface of expanded clay concrete (or any other) walls does not require leveling, and the resulting insulation layer is monolithic and has no seams or joints.

Its most basic disadvantage is the impossibility of using it yourself: the aforementioned special installation it costs expensive. And the spraying service itself is also expensive.

For reference, here is a sequence of actions when using this technology:

1. The surface is checked for cracks, chips. If available, they are covered with plaster.
2. PPU is being prepared.
3. The crate is mounted on the wall.
4. PPU is sprayed onto the surface.
5. On top of the insulation, along the crate, the installation of the cladding and further finishing is carried out.