Roof installation is a complex multi-step process. To independently assemble and install a rafter system, you need to carefully study the methods of connecting elements, calculate the length of the rafters and the slope angle, and select the appropriate materials. If not the necessary experience, you shouldn’t take on complex designs. The best option for a residential building small sizes– do-it-yourself gable roof.

A standard roof of this type consists of the following elements:

Mauerlat is a timber laid on top of the walls along the perimeter of the building. It is secured using threaded steel rods embedded in the wall or anchor bolts. The beam must be made from coniferous wood and have a square section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. The Mauerlat takes on the load from the rafters and transfers it to the external walls.

Rafter legs- these are long boards with a cross section of 50x150 mm or 100x150 mm. They are attached to each other at an angle and give the roof a triangular shape. The design of the two rafter legs called a farm. The number of trusses depends on the length of the house and the type roofing. The minimum distance between them is 60 cm, the maximum is 120 cm. When calculating the pitch of the rafter legs, you should take into account not only the weight of the covering, but also wind load, as well as the amount of snow in winter.

It is located at the highest point of the roof and most often represents a longitudinal beam connecting both slopes. From below the beam is supported vertical racks, and the ends of the rafters are attached to the sides. Sometimes the ridge consists of two boards that are nailed to the top of the rafters on both sides and connected at a certain angle.

Racks - vertical bars with a cross section of 100x100 mm, located inside each truss and serving to transfer the load from the ridge run to load-bearing walls inside the house.

The struts are made from scraps of timber and installed at an angle between the posts and rafters. The side edges of the truss are strengthened with struts and the load-bearing capacity of the structure is increased.

Tie - a beam connecting the lower parts of the rafters, the base of the truss triangle. Together with the struts, such a beam serves to strengthen the truss and increase its resistance to loads.

A log is a long beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, laid along the central load-bearing wall, on which vertical posts rest. Lezhen is used when installing layered rafters when the run between the outer walls is more than 10 m.

The sheathing consists of boards or timber placed on the rafters. The sheathing can be continuous or with gaps, depending on the type of roof. It is always attached perpendicular to the direction of the rafters, most often horizontally.

If there is no more than 10 m between the external walls and there is no load-bearing wall in the middle, arrange hanging rafter system. With this system, the upper ends of adjacent rafters are sawn at an angle and connected to each other using nails, excluding the installation of racks and ridge beams. The lower ends of the rafter legs rest on external walls. Due to the absence of racks, the attic space can be used for arranging an attic. Very often, the function of tightening is performed by floor beams. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to install the top tie at a distance of 50 cm from the ridge.

If there is a central supporting wall, the arrangement is more justified layered rafter system . A bench is laid on the wall, support posts are attached to it, and a ridge beam is nailed to the posts. This installation method is quite economical and easier to implement. If the ceilings are interior spaces are designed at different levels, racks are replaced brick wall, dividing the attic into two halves.

The roof installation process includes several stages: attaching the Mauerlat to the walls, assembling the trusses, installing the rafters on the floors, installing the ridge, and attaching the sheathing. All wooden elements Before assembly begins, they are thoroughly treated with any antiseptic composition and dried in air.

To work you will need:

timber 100x10 mm and 150x150 mm;
boards 50x150 mm;
boards 30 mm thick for lathing;
roofing felt;
metal studs;
jigsaw and hacksaw;
hammer;
nails and screws;
square and building level.

IN wooden houses The functions of the mauerlat are performed by the logs of the last row, which significantly simplifies the work process. To install the rafters, it is enough to cut grooves of the appropriate size on the inside of the logs.

IN brick houses or buildings made of blocks, installation of the Mauerlat occurs as follows:

The mauerlat bars must form a regular rectangle and be in the same horizontal plane. This will facilitate further installation of the roof and provide the structure with the necessary stability. Finally, markings are made on the beams for the rafters and grooves are cut along the thickness of the beam.

When choosing a hanging rafter system, it is necessary to assemble the trusses on the ground and then install them above the floors. First you need to draw up a drawing and calculate the length of the rafter legs and the angle of their connection. Typically, the roof slope is 35-40 degrees, but in open, heavily blown areas it is reduced to 15-20 degrees. To find out at what angle to connect the rafters, you should multiply the angle of the roof by 2.

Knowing the length of the purlin between the external walls and the angle of connection of the rafters, you can calculate the length of the rafter legs. Most often it is 4-6 m, taking into account the eaves overhang 50-60 cm wide.

The upper ends of the rafters can be fastened in several ways: overlapping, end-to-end and “into the paw”, that is, with grooves cut out. Metal plates or bolts are used for fixation. Next, the lower and upper ties are installed, and then the finished trusses are lifted up and installed above the floors.

The outer trusses are attached first: using a plumb line, the rafters are aligned vertically, the length of the overhang is adjusted and attached to the mauerlat with bolts or steel plates. To prevent the truss from moving during installation, it is reinforced with temporary beams made of timber. After installing the outer rafters, the rest are set, keeping the same distance between them. When all the trusses are secured, take a board with a cross-section of 50x150 mm, the length of which is 20-30 cm longer than the length of the cornice, and nail it along the upper edge of the slope. The same is done on the other side of the roof.

The first option: a rectangular groove is cut out on the rafter leg at the point where it touches the mauerlat, 1/3 of the width of the beam. Stepping back 15 cm from the top of the box, a steel spike is driven into the wall. The rafter is leveled, the grooves are aligned, then a wire clamp is placed on top and the beam is pulled close to the wall. The ends of the wire are securely fastened to the crutch. The lower edges of the rafters are carefully cut off circular saw leaving an overhang of 50 cm.

Second option: the upper rows of walls are laid out with a stepped cornice of bricks, and the mauerlat is placed flush with inner surface walls and cut a groove in it for the rafter. The edge of the rafter leg is cut to the level of the upper corner of the cornice. This method is simpler than others, but the overhang is too narrow.

Third option: ceiling beams extend beyond the edge outer wall by 40-50 cm, and roof trusses installed on beams. The ends of the rafter legs are cut at an angle and rest against the beams, secured with metal plates and bolts. This method allows you to slightly increase the width of the attic space.

Installation of layered rafters

Figure 1 shows the cutting of rafter struts into a beam laid on intermediate supports, and Fig. 2 - resting the rafter leg on the mauerlat

The procedure for installing a layered rafter system:

When the main elements are fixed, the surface of the rafters is treated with fire retardants. Now you can start making the sheathing.

For the sheathing, timber 50x50 mm is suitable, as well as boards 3-4 cm thick and 12 cm wide. Waterproofing material is usually laid under the sheathing to protect the rafter system from getting wet. The waterproofing film is laid in horizontal strips from the eaves to the roof ridge. The material is spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm, after which the joints are secured with tape. The lower edges of the film should completely cover the ends of the rafters.

It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the boards and the film, so first stuff them onto the film. wooden slats 3-4 cm thick, placing them along the rafters.

The next stage is covering the rafter system with boards; they are stuffed perpendicular to the slats, starting from the roof eaves. The pitch of the sheathing is influenced not only by the type of roofing, but also by the angle of inclination of the slopes: the greater the angle, the greater the distance between the boards.

After completing the installation of the sheathing, they begin cladding the gables and overhangs. You can cover the gables with boards, plastic panels, clapboard, waterproof plywood or corrugated sheeting - it all depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences. The sheathing is attached to the side of the rafters; nails or screws are used as fasteners. Overhangs are also hemmed various materials from wood to siding.

Video - DIY gable roof

The construction of a rafter system is quite a complex and responsible task. However, it can be done independently if you follow certain rules.

This article will talk about the elements of the roofing structure, as well as how to install rafters on the roof.

Before placing the rafters on gable roof, you need to find out what elements the roof structure consists of. It includes:

Mauerlat. This is a beam rigidly fixed along the load-bearing walls of the building. For its manufacture, as a rule, a bar with a section of 15 by 15 centimeters is used. serves as the bottom and also evenly distributes the load created by the roof structure onto the walls of the building. Between load-bearing wall and the mauerlat beam should be located waterproofing material, for example, roofing material. If the roof frame is made of metal, channels or I-beams are used as the Mauerlat.

Rafter legs. They are the main element of the roof frame. Their size is taken in accordance with design calculations. The lower parts rest on the mauerlat beam, and the upper parts rest on the ridge beam. For their manufacture, regardless of the type of structure being built, it is recommended to use pine board section 150 by 50 mm or 200 by 50 millimeters.

Run. It is a horizontally located beam that crosses the rafters perpendicularly along the entire length of the roof. There are three types of purlins in the rafter structure: side, ridge and mauerlat.

Sill. It is a horizontal beam that is mounted on an internal load-bearing wall. This element serves as a support for the racks and evenly distributes the load they create. Lezhens install complex rafter systems. In other words, this roof element is not mandatory and is used when necessary.

Puff. It is an element of a hanging rafter system. The tie forms a triangular truss with the rafter legs. This element reduces the thrust force created by hanging rafters on the walls of the building. The location of the tie depends on the type of roof structure being built.

Rigel. This element, like the tie, connects the rafters. The crossbar makes the structure more durable and stable. For its manufacture, timber with a cross section of 10 by 15 centimeters is usually used. The crossbar, in contrast to the tightening, is subject to compression rather than tensile load.

Racks. It is a beam installed vertically. Used if the width of the building is large enough. This element strengthens the rafter system from the inside. Purlins supported by struts are installed on the racks.

Struts. They are inclined beams supporting horizontal elements. The struts strengthen the truss structure and resist distortion and compression of the roof structure.

Roof overhang. This is part of the rafter legs, protruding beyond the external walls of the building by approximately 40 centimeters. The overhang protects the external walls of the building from rain and melt water rolling off the roof.

Fillies. It is a piece of board. Used to lengthen the lower part of the rafter leg.

Tools and materials

The roof structure should be made of wood coniferous species. The moisture content of the wood used should be less than two percent. Before use, the material must be treated with special protective agents.

For the manufacture of hanging rafters and tie rods, they are made from first grade wood. Rafter legs are made from first and second grade wood. Third grade wood can only be used for making struts and racks.

The strength of the roof structure depends on:

Reliability of connections;

Quality of the material used;

The accuracy of the calculations performed.

Before placing rafters on the roof, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

Axe;

Hammer;

Level;

fasteners;

Waterproofing material;

Boards;

Pencil;

Chainsaw;

Electric drill;

Drill set for electric drill;

Nails or screws;

Roulette;

Cord.

To make footrails, timber or edged boards are used. Wood elements should be treated with bioprotective and fire retardant materials.

Before installation, you must select the type of ridge connection and the method of attaching the rafters to the beams or mauerlat.

Calculation of the pitch of the rafters

This issue needs attention Special attention, because the strength of the roofing system depends on their cross-section.

When calculating the distance between the rafters, permanent and temporary loads on the roof being erected should be taken into account. The following elements create a constant load:

roofing material;

rafter system;

roofing cake (vapor barrier, insulation, waterproofing);

finishing elements for an attic or residential attic.

the weight of the worker performing roof repairs or maintenance.

To perform calculations (section and pitch of rafter legs), theoretical knowledge as well as practical skills are required. You can determine the approximate parameters of the roofing structure using the following table:

When choosing a rafter pitch, you must consider the type thermal insulation material. It is important to remember that the span between adjacent rafters should be 10 - 15 millimeters less than the width of the cotton insulation.

Also, when choosing the distance between the rafters, it is necessary to take into account recommendations for laying the selected roofing material.

Types of rafter system

There are two types of rafters: hanging and layered. Each type will be considered separately.

Hanging

Hanging rafter systems are used in cases where the house does not have internal supports (columns, walls). This structure is supported by external supporting walls.

In this case, the rafters work in compression and bending. exert a bursting force on the outer walls of the house. To reduce it, use a puff.

The puff is made of wooden beams or metal. Its location depends on the design of the roof being built.

For example, when constructing a mansard-type roof, the tie is placed at the base. In this case, it acts as a floor beam. The higher the tie is located, the greater the load on it.

A hanging rafter structure is used if the distance between the supports is less than 6.5 meters. To make these rafters, boards, logs, or beams are used. To connect elements to each other, use:

steel profiles;

cuttings;

bolts;

nails;

pins.

Layered rafters

Rafters of this type are used in buildings with capital internal wall. These elements are usually made of wood.

The support for the layered rafter system is provided by internal elements (column, wall). This is their main difference from layered rafters.

Rafters of this type work only for bending. Layered rafter structures are more cost-effective and lighter in comparison with hanging ones.

How to install rafters on a roof

Installation of gable roof rafters consists of the following steps:

Making a truss template. It is necessary to lift two boards onto the ceiling, and then connect them together at one edge using nails. Next, you need to install the free ends of the boards on the support beam and fix the angle between the boards. To do this, you need to nail the crossbar. Then you need to lower the resulting template onto the support beam and mark the cutting angle of the rafter legs with a pencil. It should be noted that the strength and reliability of the entire roofing structure will depend on the quality of the template.
Lower the made template down and begin making the rafters. The template must be fastened well so that when lowering it the angle between the rafters is not broken. The first manufactured truss is lifted onto the building and installed on the base.
Mark the cut location on the mauerlat and rafter legs and make the cut using a chainsaw. Next, you need to start assembling the next truss.
Install the first two trusses on the mauerlat beam along the edges of the building. The rafters installed along the edge of the mauerlat beam are secured on both sides with the help of supports. Then pull a cord between them to determine the level. Rafter trusses must be installed perpendicular to the base of the floor.
The remaining trusses need to be assembled after the level has been set and all fasteners have been checked. The rafters will not move if two boards are hammered between them. Next you need to secure cross bars and props.
Install a vapor barrier, heat insulation and waterproofing layer. The roofing material is attached to the sheathing. Its pitch depends on the selected roofing material.

This video explains how to install rafters on the roof:

Roof installation can be called final stage building a house, not counting internal works. And installation of the rafter system is one of the most critical stages roofing works, because the structure is load-bearing.

Installation of the Mauerlat and its fastening to the walls of the building. Marking.
Installation of a ridge beam: a plumb line and a spirit level are used. This is a critical stage, because the stability of the structure depends on the location of the beam in space.
Installation of racks under the ridge beam. Immediately the jibs are installed, followed by the angular legs.
Formation of roof planes taking into account the overhang (up to 1 meter).
Installation of intermediate rafter legs, spigots, rafter half-legs.
Installation of sheathing.
Installation of side slopes.

Rafter system for a hipped roof

Depending on the existing method The rafter fastening system can be hanging or layered.

The hanging rafter system is quite complex to manufacture, and its subsequent repair requires significant labor costs. Manufacturing of rafter system hanging type used if there is no internal partitions, that is, only the outer walls act as supports.

A layered rafter system is much easier to install. It is very convenient if the house has a middle load-bearing wall or columnar supports on reinforced concrete floor. Additional support increases the length of the span covered by layered rafters. The layered system is also used for hipped structures with a slope of up to 40 degrees.

The layered rafter system consists of:

Rafters are slanted (diagonal), which are aimed at the corners of the walls.
Rafters shortened for roof slopes (springs).
Braces and racks.
Runs and beds.
Sprengel.
Rigelei.

A solid hipped roof looks solid

Support for bone rafters hipped roof(tent and hip) is a mauerlat or a beam embedded into it on one side and a pair of rafter legs on the other.

Sloping rafters for a hipped roof are made longer than usual because they carry a huge load, providing support for the roofers.

The rafter system of a hip roof, like any other hip roof, is quite complex. Entrust its creation to professionals

The narozhnik is a shortened rafter leg, its end rests on the mowing leg. The second end rests on the Mauerlat. With a building length of 4.5 meters or more, the rafter legs are made composite in length. They are called multi-span. To reduce the span length, racks and struts are installed.

The layered rafter system is non-thrust if installed according to all the rules. The spread is established if the rafter legs on the ridge rest on each other. In this case, crossbars are installed.

A bench can also serve as a support for racks and struts. There are 2 ways to lay it: on brick pillars, on an internal wall. In some cases, the bed has to be built up or leveled upward with the help of wooden beams and boards. This greatly simplifies the subsequent installation of purlins and racks. In all cases, waterproofing is laid under the bed.

The construction of a hipped roof requires accurate calculations of the rafter system

The width of the bed depends on the method of laying it. If brick columns are used as a support, the section of the beam is 10x15 cm. When the beam is laid on a solid floor, then a height of 10 cm is sufficient. If there are no slopes on the roof rafter system, the beam does not need to be installed. The bottom of the racks in this case is connected by contractions.

The purlin is a support beam that is attached parallel to the Mauerlat. This part of the structure is an additional support for the rafters. It is positioned so as to support the rafters. The optimal distance between the Mauerlat and the purlin reaches 4.5 meters.

The installation of purlins is determined by the presence of supports for them, as well as the design of the ceilings and walls. They are needed as additional supports for long rafters. Sometimes, as an additional support, you can install a sprengel, which is made from a log or timber. The load on the beam from the diagonal rafter leg is gradually transferred through the rack. The building material from which the house is built influences the choice of material for the rafter system: in wooden houses, the upper crowns serve as support; in brick and stone - support bars of the mauerlat; in frame houses - top trim.

General rules for installing rafters

Sloping rafters can withstand double load, which must be taken into account when calculating.
Parts of the slanted rafters are spliced in places of greatest load, reinforced with vertical posts and struts.
Sloping rafters are made with a reserve.
The fastening points of the slanted rafters are reinforced with metal elements: metal wire, perforated fasteners.

The installation of rafters must take into account the need for a horizontal arrangement of the rafter legs where they are supported by the Mauerlat, in order to avoid the appearance of thrust. In addition to the Mauerlat, the support for the rafter legs can be: the upper frame, the upper crowns or an embedded beam, which weakens the structure, so this solution is undesirable.

If the length of the diagonal rafters is greater than the standard length of the boards, then they are spliced to achieve required length. Supports are installed under the joints. The length of the boards is selected based on the number of supports. The rafters are spliced using an oblique cut. The splices are tightened with 12 and 14 mm bolts.

The splicing of rafters for a light roof must be reliable

To connect the splice and the rafter leg, you need to extend the top of the splice and nail it to the diagonal rafters in the same plane.

To enhance the load-bearing capacity of the rafter leg, you need to nail bars on both sides, with a cross-section of 50x50 mm. Strengthening needs to be done in the lower half of the rafter leg.

The splices on the bars should not converge in one place.

Gable roof rafter system

Gable roofs are more economical structures. Their rafter system is based on a triangle. It consists of two rafter legs and a tie. From above, the rafter legs are connected at the ridge girder, and their lower ends are attached to the outer walls of the building. This design is not as massive as the previous one, but also not as stable. It is designed for lighter roofing.

The installation of rafters for heavy materials should include additional racks, tie-downs and struts.

Farms in gable cottages There are inclined and hanging ones. The hanging farm is the most simple design, installed on houses without a middle wall, no more than 6 meters wide. The rafter system has no intermediate supports and is installed on the walls. It consists of two rafter legs, struts and a pair of puffs. The rafter legs are connected to each other and the tie rods with screws, nails, and double-sided plates.

A reliable base for a gable roof has the shape of a triangle

If the distance between the walls of a single-span house exceeds 6 meters, then the number of struts for the hanging truss should be increased. If the angle of the roof slope is small, and winters in the region are snowy, then the number of struts should again be increased.

Inclined rafter systems are convenient for small houses with a load-bearing wall in the middle. Outside, the rafters rest on the walls of the house, and inside on the middle load-bearing wall. If the width of the house reaches 15 meters, then one support is no longer enough. The upper ends of the rafter legs should be overlapped with corner plates. The lower ones are attached to the Mauerlat.

The Mauerlat is made from solid logs, which are hewn into 2 edges. A powerful stand is placed in the center of the truss; the top of the upper chord will rest on it.

Gable roofs with different locations of middle supports

Mansard roofs have a different design. They can be installed based on an internal wall or without a middle support, if under a single-bay house. The main feature of such trusses is the interfloor overlap, and not the tightening. The ceiling is the floor for attic room. The lower and upper belts, horizontal contractions, vertical racks are made from double bars if there is no support in the center. At the top of the structure, a purlin is laid as the basis of the future ridge. For the run, use wide-section logs or a pair of thick boards: thickness at least 50 mm.

Design of the attic rafter system sloping roof

For wooden houses When installing the rafter system, timber is used; for brick and block systems, metal or reinforced concrete is suitable. Wood for rafters must be chosen of the first and second grade. Best section for rafters of a gable roof - 50x150 mm. Bars 50x50 mm are suitable for lathing. The distance between adjacent rafter legs is 1 m. If the roof angle is 45 degrees or more, then the distance can be increased to 1.3 m. If the region is snowy, then reduced to 0.7 m.

Sheathing - beams nailed perpendicularly to the rafters, parallel to each other. This part of the structure bears a large load; it transfers the weight to the load-bearing walls.

The lathing can be solid if the gap between the boards is less than 1 cm, and sparse - a step of up to 50 cm.

The sheathing is made from edged boards

Continuous sheathing - good for soft roof. It consists of two layers: the first layer is solid; the second is moisture-resistant plywood or boards placed on a continuous sheathing at an angle of 45 degrees. Also, continuous sheathing is necessary at the joints.

Sparse lathing is suitable for rigid roofing: steel, clay tiles, etc. The lathing is nailed to the rafters. The pitch is calculated taking into account the parameters of the roofing covering.

How to install rafters on a pitched roof

A pitched roof is economical and can protect a building from weather conditions. Having made such a roof in the country, you can not be afraid of problems with melt or rain water.

Characteristic feature shed roofs is the angle of inclination: roofs with an angle of 70 degrees can be considered steep, and 10-20 degrees - flat. Most often, roofs with an angle of 30-45 degrees are chosen. The choice of form must be compared with the weather conditions and the needs of subsequent operation. The angle of the roof should be thought out at the design stage of the building.

The rafter system, as in previous cases, is the skeleton of the structure and the support of the future roof. When calculating the rafter system, the main thing is to distribute the weight of the roof evenly. At the stage of project development, it is also worth considering that the roof will carry the wind load, so it is being built from the leeward side.

The angle and length of the slope are reflected on the device pitched roof

All calculations must be made with a reserve.

Rafter systems are divided by type of installation:

Inclined.
Hanging.
Sliding.

The frequency of fastening rafters and sheathing depends on the roofing materials. For heavy materials, the structure should be strengthened.

The pitched roof will become great solution for a small country house, garage, change house or bathhouse

The frame of the truss structure should be made of dry, sanded, treated wood from decay.

Suitable for installing a pitched roof: small house for all-season living, country house, garage, small non-residential buildings.

The roof gives any building architectural completeness, fulfilling its main function - protection from bad weather. Depending on the climatic conditions in which the house is being built, the roof structure is chosen. So, in places where precipitation occurs regularly, it is best to build houses with a high roof. In places where there are constant strong winds, it is better to install roofs with a gentle slope. In our article we will talk about how to install rafters on different types roofs

The design can be: single-pitch, gable, hipped, spire-shaped, .

However, regardless of the design of roofs and roofing materials, roofing roofs have the same elements: pediment, ribs, ridge, dormer window, and pediment, hip and valley.

The design feature of a roof with one slope is that load-bearing walls act as its basis for the slope, and their height is different. This design is practically not used for residential buildings.

It has found its application for outbuildings, country houses, bath During construction country house often erected.

Her design feature lies in the fact that the roof rests on load-bearing walls of the same height.

Thus, a space called a pediment is formed inside the slopes. A roof with such a design is easy to build on your own, without the involvement of specialists.

Mansard and hip roofs are more difficult to construct. More more complex design on hip roofs (they have four slopes).

Multi-gable roofs are usually used on houses with more complex layouts. Their arrangement will require the construction of a valley, which will further complicate the roofing work.

General roof structure

None of the above types of roofs can do without such an element as rafters. They are also called farms. This wooden beams, which are the load-bearing elements of the roof structure.

Between the belts of the rafters (lower and upper) there are crates, their basis is bevels and struts.

The components of the roof are also:

roof;
roofing base;
layer of thermal and waterproofing.

The further arrangement of all depends on how to install the rafters. load-bearing elements roofing: mauerlat and sheathing. Such parts are made only from wood (beams, boards, logs).

Depending on the material, the method of connecting all the supporting elements is also selected. The following fasteners are used:

spacers;
racks;
struts;
crossbars.

The main purpose of fasteners is to provide rigidity to the entire system.

It is important to know: the larger the span, the more fasteners will be required.

Rafter truss - roof parts connected to each other using fasteners. Its basis is one or more triangles.

Mauerlat is laid along the outer edge of the walls - wooden beam. Its main purpose: support for load-bearing rafters.

Types of rafters

Depending on how to correctly install the rafters, the reliability of the supporting structure of the roof depends.

It is important to know: for rafters you need to use high quality wood, without cracks, knots and wormholes.

There are two types of rafters:

Hanging rafters.
The rafters are layered.

Advice: it is better to install layered rafters in a house where there are supporting middle walls. If the span is more than 5 meters, then we place the rafters on the slopes. The layered rafters rest against the mauerlat, so the load on the walls increases several times. Therefore, the walls must be quite massive.

How to install layered rafters correctly? In this type of rafters, each rafter leg is equipped with two supports.

One support rests on the mauerlat, and the second is a purlin that runs along the ridge. The purlin is laid on the racks that are installed on the inner wall.

Hanging rafters require more careful preparation and practical skills. They need to be installed in houses with thin walls.

Since they rest only on the walls of the house and do not have intermediate support.

Very often, before placing the rafters on the house, the rafter legs are connected with a special tie. It can also be used as a floor beam.

Hanging rafters with a simple design are a pair of rafters, they need to be connected at the top into a ridge. To do this, you need to cut the rafters halfway through the tree, and at the bottom they will rest against a beam located horizontally.

A little advice: in order to prevent the rafters from sagging, fasten them with staples; to do this, first cut in the crossbar. In cases where the width of the spans is 7 meters or more, we recommend using a beam; it must be secured in a tie and in the ridge. Fasten the beam to the rafters, braces and transom using a notch (it should resemble a straight tooth). This design of the rafter system is suitable for spans with a pitch of no more than 10 meters.

When installing hanging rafters with a simple structure on a masonry structure, it is important to know how to position the rafters. Here you will need special fasteners- metal brush.

Such fasteners must be driven into the brickwork, into its every fourth row. Two loops depart from the ruff, with which you can attach the beams.

Consider one more at least important feature: strong timber must be placed along the entire length of the building. The ends of the rafters will rest on it, thus distributing the load on the walls.

We invite you to view practical guide: video on how to install rafters.

Let's consider no less important points during the construction of the rafter system. So, in the place where the chimney exits, do not forget to make a fire break.

It is important to know what is between structural elements the distance should not exceed 130 mm.

In order to correctly install the roof overhang, we recommend that you watch our video tutorial again: how to install rafters video. You will realize that special fillies will be required. You can make them yourself from a board with a section of 5x10 cm.

The length of the board should be half a meter more than the overhang, since when connecting to the rafter leg, a joint will need to be made. Nail the fillies to the board so that the rafter leg does not extend beyond the roof.

Rafter structure of mansard roofs

The attic design is more complex, but it is also possible to do it yourself. It is advisable to choose a simpler version of this type of roof with triangular clear straight slopes.

The further equipment of the attic room also depends on how to correctly set the rafters, since the floor will be the lower part of the truss truss.

We recommend building a mansard-type structure from parallel beams, which must have a sufficiently large section to withstand subsequent operational loads. Other structural parts can be made from bars with a smaller thickness or even from boards.

Rafter structure of hip roofs

Design feature hip roofs are additional slopes. They need to be formed with hip rafters, which should form a joint with the gable roof ridge.

From the outside it should look like two separate parts. First part - gable roof, its length is not enough for the area of \u200b\u200bthe whole house. It turns out open areas- they need to be covered with two hips.

It is very important to know how far to put the rafters, since the main load will be on the extreme rafter beams, they must be further strengthened.

But we must not forget about the clear ratio of the dimensions of the gable and hip parts of the roof. If we slightly violate the proportions, we will ruin the appearance of the entire house forever.

In fact, this is a complex single design, the installation of which is best entrusted to professionals.

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Installing rafters: 2 simple instructions for self-execution

Are you planning to build a roof frame, but don't know where to start? I will tell you how to install rafters on houses made of gas silicate blocks and on buildings frame type. As a result, you will be able to choose the right one simple instructions and apply it when building your country house.

Installation of rafters on a brick house

As an example, let's look at how to independently install a rafter system on a gable roof for a country house. brick house. The peculiarity of this roof is that you can build an attic in the attic with your own hands.

The front walls pass into the pediments, laid out from the same wall material. This fact will simplify the task, since the roof frame will be built between the gables. In addition, a roof built between brick gables is more resistant to wind loads.

The peculiarity of this roofing frame is that it will be built without timber, but only from boards. The problem of the lack of timber will be solved longitudinal connection two boards, for example, this will be done when laying down. This approach is due to saving money, since two 200x50 mm beams will cost less than a 200x100 mm beam.

Construction technology

Illustration	Step-by-step instruction
	Preparation of materials. To assemble the truss system, we will use a board 200 × 50 mm. In addition, you will need fasteners and waterproofing materials. Before work, we impregnate lumber with an antiseptic and dry it.
	Installation of Mauerlats. In accordance with the previously proposed drawings, we place the Mauerlats on the side load-bearing walls. Before installing beams, over brickwork we lay out a bituminous substrate. We fasten the Mauerlat to the wall with anchor bolts with a diameter of at least 12 mm. We select a bolt installation step of at least 1.5 m.
	Installation of the bed. Laying the planks on the intermediate wall is carried out according to the same principle as installing mauerlats. The difference is that we lay the bench in two boards, since the distribution of loads on it will be greater than on the external walls.
	Installation of ridge girder. On the bed, close to the gables, we fasten the extreme vertical racks. To prevent the racks from moving during installation, we temporarily fix them with diagonal struts. On top of the racks, using perforated metal corners, we attach a horizontal beam - a ridge girder, on which the tops of the rafter legs will meet. Following the example of the extreme racks, in the interval between the run and the bed, we install intermediate additional supports in increments of 80 cm.
	Fitting the first rafter. We attach a board mounted on an edge to the purlin and the mauerlat. On the board at the level of the run and at the level of the Mauerlat, we draw the edges of the notch with one horizontal and one vertical side. As a result, the edge of the beam overhang below the Mauerlat should be at least 60 cm. Using the markings made, cut out the corners.
	Adjusting the rafters. Following the example of one workpiece, identical cutouts are made on another board. Then the beams are installed on the purlin and grabbed with a clamp. By level, we mark a strictly vertical center line, along which we cut the combined boards. The result should be a skate, as shown in the photo.
	Fastening the rafters. We fasten the beams combined on the run with perforated metal corners in the lower and upper parts. In addition, the ridge knot is additionally tightened using a perforated metal plate. All fastenings are carried out on self-tapping screws. For greater reliability, we use colored self-tapping screws, as they are galvanized. Black self-tapping screws are only suitable for temporary installation.
	Installation of rafters. On the contrary, the already assembled truss truss, we install the last truss. We stretch cords between the installed structures, one at the level of the ridge, another in the middle and one closer to the mauerlat. We install and align the intermediate rafters along the cords.
	Installation of puffs. To strengthen the trusses at the level of the beam, we attach horizontal struts, which should pass through the edge of the opposite rafters on both sides. We make a puff from a board placed on the edge. We fasten the board to the rack with self-tapping screws, and to the diagonal beams with self-tapping screws and a bolt and nut through cap washers. We install similar puffs at the bottom of each farm. We cut the side ends of the puffs flush with the surface of the rafters. Subsequently, the installed tie rods will be used as floor beams.
	Trimming overhangs. We mark each overhang so that there is a recess for fastening the eaves board and a vertical cut for installing the wind board. You can take measurements on each board separately, or you can make one template and go around all the overhangs with it and transfer the markings evenly According to the markings made, we cut off all the overhangs with a miter saw.

Installation of rafters on a frame house

I offer another example where the installation of the rafter system will be carried out on frame house 6x6. At the base of the house, a wooden lattice frame is used for subsequent filling with insulation and covering with slab materials.

Since the construction will be carried out on a frame house, there is only one requirement for the rafters, as well as for the selection of roofing material - light weight without compromising the strength of the structure. Therefore, during construction it would be correct to use a dry board 200×50 made of coniferous wood.

Assembly technology

Illustrations	Description of the main stages
	Installation of floor beams. Boards placed on edge - logs - are installed across the top frame of the walls. The optimal installation step, which ensures high strength in combination with an acceptable weight of the floor, is 35-40 cm. Laid floor beams in the structure frame house will be the basis of farms.
	Rack installation. The rack is assembled from two boards folded flat. One long board is 2.4 m, and the other is shorter - 2.2 m. The protrusion resulting from the difference in lengths will be used as a stop for the purlin. We install the stand level and support it with struts during installation of the entire structure. The dimensions of the stand are approximate, and you can adjust them, taking into account the selected angle of inclination of the slopes.
	Installation of the remaining racks and purlins. Following the example of the first rack, the outermost rack is installed. The purlin is attached so that the horizontal beam rests on the steps. The overhang of the purlin at the outer posts is provided for subsequent cladding of the pediment. Intermediate supports are installed between the outer posts.
	Installation of junction of rafters to beams. One end of the rafters is laid on the purlin, while the other end is laid on the bottom trim. The edge of the rafter is nailed directly into the floor beam. Thus, we install the two outer boards, stretch the cord between them and install intermediate beams along the cord.
	Attaching the ridge assembly. We join the upper edges of the rafters by preliminary cutting end to end. WITH inside the junction of the rafters is secured with a wooden overlay, as shown in the photo. The covers can be cut from scraps that you will have left over when assembling the vertical posts. The overlay and the ridge assembly are connected with nails, plus a metal mounting angle fixed with self-tapping screws is installed at the junction of the overlay and the girder.

Let's sum it up

Now you know how to correctly install rafters for roofs with two slopes. If you still have questions regarding the proposed instructions, you can ask them in the comments to this article.

December 12, 2017

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