When making furniture from laminated chipboard the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, a furniture edge and a profile are used. It is more convenient to work with them on special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.
Types of furniture edges
One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the ugly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. Make it from different materials, respectively, it has different properties and price.
Such an edge can also be obtained independently
Paper or melamine edges
The cheapest option is melamine impregnated paper edges. Paper is taken with increased density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and pasted on papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layered (cheaper) and double-layered.
To prevent the melamnov coating from being erased, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the reverse side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, it is only necessary to warm up this composition slightly and press it well against the end.
Paper or melamine edging - the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture
The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are the most common. There is no point in doing it thicker, and it will turn out expensive.
This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But its mechanical strength is very low - the edge is quickly worn out. Therefore, if it is used, then only on those surfaces that are not subjected to stress. For example, on the back of shelves, countertops, etc.
PVC
Received in Lately Polyvinyl chloride is widely used in the production of edges for furniture. From dyed to specific color mass, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth monophonic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it is easy to choose the right one.
PVC furniture edge is the most popular material used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:
- High mechanical resistance.
- Withstand impact chemical substances (household chemicals, For example).
- Moisture-resistant material protects the ends of the product from moisture.
- PVC is an elastic material, which allows processing curved surfaces.
- Well processed with simple fixtures, which allows you to get a good result even at home. Different edge thicknesses look different
PVC furniture edge is available in different thicknesses and widths. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm.
The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece.
Eat furniture PVC edge with applied adhesive composition, yes - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).
This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature regime: -5°C to +45°C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heating, you must be careful not to melt the polymer.
Made of ABS (ABS) plastic
This polymer does not contain heavy metals, is characterized by high strength and durability. The disadvantage can be considered a high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:
- Resistant to high and low temperatures, therefore, when gluing, you can use glue with any melting point. Slight shrinkage during heating - about 0.3%.
- High mechanical resistance.Several options for ABS edging tape
This type of edge can be matte, glossy, semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate different types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to work with and more durable in use.
Veneer edge
Veneer is a thin slice of wood that has been dyed and shaped into a ribbon. This furniture edge is used in production when pasting slices of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.
Veneer is not the most popular material for edging
Acrylic edge or 3D
Made from clear acrylic. On reverse side stripes are applied drawing. The polymer layer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. It is used in the manufacture of furniture in an unusual design.
Acrylic gives the picture volume
Furniture edge profiles
You can finish the edge of furniture not only with an edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are mechanically fastened. They have two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).
A groove is milled under the T-shaped furniture profiles in the processed edge. A profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the corner look attractive. It is brought to the ideal state by fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum, with the same installation method they look very different, and the differences are significant.
T-profile for furniture edges
In width, they are available for chipboard 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.
C- or U-shaped profiles are most often mounted on glue. They smear the edge, then put on plastic profile well pressed and fixed. These PVC profiles are soft and hard. Rigid ones bend worse and it is difficult to paste over curved edges with them. But they have great strength.
Gluing a C-shaped furniture profile does not cause problems
If you still need to "plant" a rigid C-shaped furniture profile in a bend, it is heated with a building hair dryer, then given the desired shape and fixed with masking tape until the glue dries.
We glue the furniture edge with our own hands
There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those who have glue applied on the back. In this case, you need an iron or a building hair dryer.
The second is for sticking tapes without glue.
In this case, you need a good all-purpose adhesive that can glue plastics and wood products and furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.
It is real to get such an edge at home
A little about how thick the edge to glue on what parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, you can not glue them at all, but basically they try to process them so that moisture is less absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or PVC 0.4 mm is glued to these edges. The edges of drawers (not facades) are also processed.
On the front ends of the facade and drawers it is better to use PVC 2 mm, and on the visible sections of the shelves - PVC 1 mm. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.
How to glue the edging with glue yourself
The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge, it happens on PVC. If you have chosen PVC, it is easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine ones are easy to glue.
We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, a dense cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. For this purpose, a building hair dryer is also suitable. We put the iron on about “deuce”, while it is heated, cut off a piece of tape. Length - a couple of centimeters more than the workpiece.
Laying the edge tape on the part
We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it. Small pieces should hang down from both sides. We take an iron and, through a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, warming up until the glue melts. It is necessary to warm up evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.
We warm up with an iron
The edge can be cut with a knife, both sharp and blunt side. Someone uses a regular metal ruler, someone is more comfortable with a stainless steel spatula.
So, we take the tool of your choice, cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic are perfectly cut with a knife.
If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may already arise. Such edges can be processed manual router, if he is. This guarantees good result in short time.
Longer processing will last if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.
You can even use a spatula with a hard blade
One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part must be even, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, because of which all defects are visible. Therefore, first go through the cuts with sandpaper, then carefully dedust, degrease. Only after that you can glue.
Edging with PVC tape (without adhesive on the reverse side)
With this method of self-gluing PVC edges, you need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue, perform all the actions on the recommendation. For example, for Moment glue, it is necessary to apply on the surface and distribute the composition, wait 15 minutes, press the surfaces to be glued strongly.
Apply glue and wait - no problem. To firmly press the edge to the cut, you can use wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a bar, you can take a construction grater, and also attach felt to its sole. IN last resort can be rolled up dense fabric in several layers and with this press the tape to the surface.
We press hard, leaning with all our weight
The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all the weight, pressing it against chipboard surfaces. The movements at the same time are stroking. So iron the entire edge, achieving a very snug fit. In this form, the part is left for a while - so that the glue "grabs". Then you can start processing the edge.
Source: http://stroychik.ru/mebel/vidy-torcevyh-kromok
How to glue the edge on chipboard and PVC
The edge in furniture production is necessary to protect the end edges of the product from chips, cracks and other damage, and it also protects against moisture and formaldehyde vapor.
You will learn about what edges are, as well as how to glue them and how to glue an edge with an iron and a hairdryer, from this article.
Types of edges - why are they needed
- The most common type - melamine edge with glue on paper basis . It is applied to finishing of internal sites of furniture. Affordable, inexpensive, but not the best quality option. Does not tolerate moisture, wears out quickly. Easy to stick at home with a simple iron.
- T-shaped flexible profile - is a T-shaped bar, it is inserted into a slot in the side of the chipboard or MDF. It is convenient to replace the damaged element in the future without disassembling the furniture. Installation requires a milling machine.
- PVC edging - reliably protects the ends of furniture from damage, is wear-resistant, moisture resistant. Gluing PVC edging will require an edger, so using this type of edge at home is difficult.
- ABS plastic is an eco-friendly, chlorine-free option.
Valued for resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.
All options can be divided into two subspecies - edges without glue and with glue.
Average cost per profile running meter:
- PVC 0.4 mm thick - about 25 rubles,
- PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
- Melamine material for chipboard - about 25 rubles.
In our country, products from Rehau which offers a wide range of color solutions, as well as different tape widths from 15 to 45 mm.
To simplify the work, you can use various specialized furniture programs that will calculate how much material is needed to glue the edges.
PVC edge - how to glue in stages at home
For work you will need:
- iron or building hair dryer,
- and of course buy a PVC edge with glue
- hard roller,
- newspaper or paper sheet
The material is heated to make the adhesive sticky. Heating is performed with an iron in the "Synthetics" mode.
- The profile is applied to the end in such a way that it overlaps the end of the section.
- Next, the iron again performs heating through the newspaper. Since the glue dissolves quickly, the process is quite active, and it is convenient to move the iron along the PVC edge.
- The edge itself must be carefully pressed and ironed until it sticks along the entire length.
- Gluing with a building hair dryer. Instead of an iron, you can use a building hair dryer. The PVC edge is heated from the adhesive side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end of the desired area, clamped and gently smoothed.
- Gluing with glue "Moment". This method is suitable if there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The quality of the butt is checked manually, sawdust, rubbish, dust are removed until the surface is clean. Then glue is applied to both the material and the end and wait until it sets. After that, apply and press. Using a roller, the area is rolled so that the glue grabs faster.
How to remove excess material
If it was not possible to carefully glue the edge the first time, the procedure will have to be repeated. To do this, glue is again applied to the area and the profile is clamped with a roller or manually.
Since usually the width of the PVC edges is taken with a margin, you need to carefully remove the excess along the edges. To do this, use a regular clerical knife or file. It is taken with both hands and pressed on the protruding fragment. As a result, the excess parts are broken off and an edge remains that matches the width of the site.
Shutdown
After everything is glued, it remains to process the bumps with sandpaper.
How to glue an edge on chipboard - a description
Melamine edge is best option for use at home when you need to refurbish old furniture With minimal cost. If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals who use other more expensive and high-quality material.
Consider, how to glue the edge on a chipboard tabletop at home.
GREAT VIDEO RELATED TO THE TOPIC
To work, you will need the following materials:
- skin,
- sharply sharpened knife-jamb,
- wallpaper roller,
- melamine edge,
- building hair dryer or iron.
Action algorithm:
- select the operating mode of the iron so that it does not get too hot and does not burn the chipboard and at the same time ensures proper melting of the glue,
- process the edges of the chipboard for gluing with sandpaper, eliminate irregularities,
- measure the profile
- heat it with an iron and press it firmly against the area with a roller (if there is no adhesive layer, you will need to apply glue to the edge yourself, for example, Moment glue),
- cut off the hanging edges of the edge with a knife.
It is necessary to cut at an angle along the edge, slightly wringing the material. Then it remains to sand the edges so that there are no burrs and irregularities.
If the cut of the edge and the chipboard itself are slightly different, the stain will help correct the difference.
In the case when the part has a complex shape, and the edge of the surface is characterized by complex relief, it is not always possible to glue the material evenly the first time. In such a situation, it is worth contacting professionals so as not to spoil the product.
Types of edge glue
What glue to choose for the edge
Professionals furniture production actively use hot melt adhesives for edging. They are convenient if the production will be put on stream, and both high quality results and fast speed are required.
Hot melt adhesives are thermoplastics, which means that when heated they become very elastic and when cooled they harden quickly.
The polymer of ethylene with vinyl acetate, which is part of the adhesive, is responsible for these properties.
The disadvantage of using is the need to use special equipment, namely the appropriate machines or hand guns for applying glue to parts and heating it.
- IN living conditions often use PVC glue, which sticks well paper materials To various surfaces. Homogeneous without lumps light color the mass adheres well to surfaces, but is afraid of moisture. It does not require the use of additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for non-professional masters to use.
- Suitable universal adhesives "Moment and" 88-Lux ", which will securely glue the material to the surface of chipboard and PVC. After 3-4 hours the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, safe and available.
- Of the professional furniture edge adhesive, it is worth noting the products from Kleiberit. The company offers hot melt adhesives for cladding, for gluing the material using the soft-forming method (in case the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.
Source: http://kakkley.ru/kak-kleit-kromku-nadsp-pvh/
Discover the secrets of the countertop
Hello dear reader! Here are the secrets:
1. Countertop materials2. Table dimensions 3. How to glue and process an edge4. All about connecting strips5. How to fix a kitchen worktop6. Repair and replacement of countertops 7. How to make a tabletop, do it yourself
Countertop materials
The market for supplying materials for the production of countertops is very large. To date, the first place is occupied by a countertop made of moisture-resistant chipboard with plastic coated. It holds its leadership due to its low price and its reliability.
Manufacturers exaggerate specifications. And the housewives decide that the material is immortal. They don't use cutting boards. Scratches appear, and then they take on ugly shapes. Use cutting boards and you will double the life of the coating.
Second place fake diamond. A huge selection of colors and ease of processing, makes it possible to embody the most creative idea. This is a dense surface that allows you to maintain sterile cleanliness. In fact, it is a solution of stone chips and bonding resins.
Resists damage well. At the same time, the surface is easily restored, it is enough to polish it. If you order a table made of acrylic stone, then you should use stands for hot dishes. Due to the weak heat resistance of acrylic.
On the third prize-winning place is a natural stone. Most often used basalt and granite. Due to the porous structure of marble, it is used less often. Pluses it is of course monolithic and robust construction, which is very difficult to damage at home.
beauty natural stone can not be compared with any imagination of designers, and its eco-friendly cleanliness will fill your room with health. Among the shortcomings is, of course, the high cost of the material and its heavy weight.
Metal countertops are not popular. The smooth surface of which cannot be restored. It is better to use ribbed or corrugated. Designers use metal countertops in modern and high-tech styles, due to their rectangular shape.
Glass countertops have recently begun to decorate kitchen sets. And during this time, their strength, as well as the likelihood of making any form, applying any pattern, soldering various decor elements, interested the hearts of buyers.
Wooden tabletops. The warmth of a living tree cannot be compared with the dead structure of an artificial base. Apply hard rocks: oak, beech, larch, alder. In addition to beauty given material nothing to be proud of.
Table top dimensions
The standard length of the countertop for the kitchen, from domestic manufacturers, is 3050 mm, 600 mm wide. There is a width of 800 mm and 1200 mm. The thickness of the moisture-resistant countertop is 38 mm, less popular a budget option 26 mm.
Foreign manufacturers supply countertops with a length of 4100 mm and a thickness of 38 mm. Dimensions shown are for plastic-coated worktops. As for other materials, the dimensions of the headset and production capacity set the size limits.
How to glue and process the edge
We take in our hands the plastic edge with glue acquired, together with the countertop. We break off a piece of tape with a margin in length and warming up the glue with a hairdryer, roll the edge to the bare end, through a thick rag or after putting on cotton gloves.
With the help of a trihedral file, with sharp short movements, from the outside to the inside at an angle, cut off the excess edge. Each time, more and more carefully and thoroughly. In the end, with fine sandpaper or a grinding sponge, we bring the processing to the ideal.
Within walking distance from you, there is a service for calculating cabinet furniture.
Planks for countertops
There are end (non-stick), docking t-shaped and connecting strips at an angle of 90 degrees. The strips are produced for countertops with a thickness of 26 and 38 mm, as well as for countertops with a radius of post-forming front side framed by plastic, which we touch during cooking with a stomach of 5 mm and 10 mm. mm, the thickness of the bar itself is 0.6 mm.
The planks should be fixed on the 16th self-tapping screws PZ 1. They have a small cap, which easily hides in a recess under the head of the plank fastening screw. Before attaching the planks, I recommend treating the end with a sealant. To protect against moisture penetration.
If you can't find similar screws, you can use small furniture studs with a decent hat. But in no case do we attract any self-tapping screws that come to hand, because they will give a gap and the countertops will not tightly adjoin each other.
How to fix the countertop
It is enough to pull it with self-tapping screws through the fixing strips of the lower pedestals. The whole trick is that the pedestals are leveled and pulled together, so the tabletop feels like a single monolith, firmly drawn to them.
There is one more thing, the installation of the table should be started by pre-drilling the mounting strips with a drill with a diameter of 5 mm. And finally, in the sink cabinet, in which the design does not allow the use of mounting strips, I use mounting brackets.
Countertop repair and replacement
First I want to warn you, countertop repair is not possible. Exceptions are countertops made of artificial stone. In other cases, it will not be profitable to update the table with your own hands, it will be cheaper to replace the countertop.
To replace the kitchen worktop, you will have to dismantle the wall plinth and lower the lower modules using the adjustable legs. Then we dive into the cabinets and unscrew the screws from the mounting strips.
Now all the attention is on the dimensions of the old countertop. We carefully measure and transfer the size to new table, taking into account all the gaps on the walls. We fix the connecting strips and attract with self-tapping screws. Wall board, it is better to use a new one.
How to make a tabletop with your own hands
I'll tell you about the method in which I myself achieved a good result. We will need a chipboard sheet, plastic, contact adhesive and self-tapping screws. We cut the chipboard into two strips, with a margin in width. We tighten them together on the thirtieth self-tapping screws.
We cut the plastic according to the size of the resulting workpiece and carefully glue it. We cut the workpiece to size. We close the end with an aluminum edging. As a result, we have a countertop of a non-standard size, of any shape and color.
- A clear level of the lower pedestals
- We do not spare silicone
- Be sure to use connecting strips
- We use high-quality plinth
Conclusion
Source: https://bokovina.ru/sdelat-kuhnyu/sekrety-o-stoleshnice/
PVC and melamine furniture edge: selection, types and gluing
If you yourself make furniture from laminated chipboard or MDF, then after cutting the sheets, you need to protect their end parts, which will increase the service life of the product and give it a beautiful appearance. For this, PVC edge for furniture is often used, but there are other varieties. In this article we will talk about all types, the need for edging and how to stick it with your own hands.
Why is an edge needed?
Self-adhesive furniture edge - a narrow strip of melamine, PVC, ABS or other material. It protects and decorates the place of the cut. In the production of cheap furniture from laminated chipboard, an edge is simply necessary, as it protects people from exposure to harmful formaldehyde. In addition, it gives strength and protects the material from moisture ingress.
Edge types
The following types of furniture edges are most popular.
- Melamine edge with glue - the most budgetary, but not the highest quality look. It is afraid of moisture and can fall off over time (even without mechanical impact), it easily cracks and wears off at the corners. The only plus is the pre-applied adhesive layer, so melamine edging remains a popular option in the home.
- PVC furniture edge 2 and 0.4 mm is the best option. It is much more stable and durable. A thickness of 0.4 mm is usually used to process hidden places, and 2 mm is glued to the outer ends, which will be visible. However, its application requires a special edge processing machine, so it is used only in production.
- ABS edging is a more environmentally friendly analogue of the previous option, which is less common on the market.
- Mortise T-profile - inserted into a milled groove at the end of the chipboard. It was popular in those days when a special machine for PVC edging was rare, and there were a lot of milling machines in the workshops.
- Consignment P-profile C18 is a good option, because it can be used for chipboard at home. Usually, the C18 P-profile is simply put on the end and glued to liquid nails. Minus - the edges protruding by a few millimeters, under which dirt is clogged. On the other hand, this feature is very handy if you do cutting chipboard with your own hands, large edges will hide uneven cuts and chips. This type is often used for homemade wardrobes.
When buying furniture, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the processing of the ends. It is better not to take furniture with melamine treatment, as it will be short-lived.
Mortise T-shaped edgingProfile C18
For gluing on the machine, a special melt adhesive for PVC edges is used. It is sold in the form of granules, after heating it becomes liquid. The adhesive is applied to the tape either when heated or during the manufacture of the tape.
Edging chipboard
To make the edge for a tabletop or cabinet beautiful and durable, in the best possible way will order edging in production. Usually this is done in the same place where chipboard is bought and ordered.
Approximate prices for application (per 1 linear meter together with the material):
- PVC edge 2 mm - 40 rubles;
- PVC edging 0.4 mm - 25 rubles;
- edge for chipboard made of melamine - 25 rubles;
- in addition, you will have to pay for the processing of curved sections.
The most popular PVC edge in Russia is Rehau, it has wide choose colors, so you can choose a color for any chipboard. The width of the tape is different - from 15 to 45 mm.
To order this service for a store, you must first prepare a diagram of how to glue the PVC edge: in what places to apply it and what thickness. Those places that will not wear out can be covered with 0.4 mm PVC to save money (for example, back and bottom edges). All visible places are treated with PVC 2 mm.
Where the butt-to-butt with another part will be attached, processing is not needed. The difference between PVC coatings is 0.4 and 2 mm
Let's take an example.
- On the inner inset shelf, only the front face is processed with a layer of 2 mm.
- Top overlay cover - from all sides (rear face 0.4 mm, the rest - 2 mm).
- The front of the drawer is processed on all sides with a thickness of 2 mm.
To simplify the calculations, you can use special furniture programs, they create a project automatically. As a result, in order to assemble an average wardrobe, a PVC edge for chipboard will cost 1.5-2 thousand rubles. It will not be very cheap, but it will be of high quality, safe and durable.
Glue the edge yourself
For those who want to save money, there is a melamine edge with glue, which is glued with an iron. This option is quite suitable for repairing old furniture - do not carry a few small boards into the workshop.
To solve the question of how best to glue the edge to the tabletop, it is better not to be too lazy and turn to production, or still use an overlay profile, because melamine will quickly deteriorate from moisture and abrasion.
For gluing, an old Soviet iron or a building hair dryer is best suited. The thermostat of the iron is set to about 2.5 positions. In addition, you will need a rag, a knife, fine sandpaper and a stand for fixing parts.
- The part is fixed and the edge is cut with a margin of several centimeters. Then it is applied and carefully heated with an iron, in sections of about 40 cm. When it heats up well, the edge glue will melt and it will sag a little.
- Immediately after this, you need to press the edge tape well with a rag. This is done quickly, as it cools quickly.
- When you are done with gluing, you need to trim off the excess. First, cut off the end parts, and then those that go along. The knife must be held at an angle. In this case, the movement of the knife is directed towards the part, and not outward. For convenient operation You will need a sharp, burr-free knife. When cutting off the excess, be careful not to cut off the corners.
- For final processing, go around the corners with sandpaper. In order for the edge to last longer, it should not cling when touched.
You can also use an iron to remove the old edge tape. To do this, it is heated and pry with a spatula or knife. In this video you can see how to stick a 2 mm edge at home:
Additionally, you need to close the ends kitchen worktops special metal nozzle with sealant so that moisture does not get inside, then the countertop will not swell (see the article on how to assemble a kitchen).
To achieve a really good result, it is still better to order factory edging. The overpayment will not be too big, but the durability will increase significantly. Now on sale you can find almost any color of tape to imitate wood or a plain version.
RemBoo » Furniture » Types and process of gluing on Chipboard furniture PVC edging, melamine
Making furniture with your own hands brings considerable savings Money. Basically, for this purpose, chipboard is used - a material glued from sawdust.
The main task the furniture edge is the facing of the end surfaces of the laminated chipboard.After cutting, its edges have an unattractive appearance and require further processing.
The tabletop is the most vulnerable element of furniture, and special attention must be paid to its edge.
At the moment, there are several ways to give the ends of the countertop an aesthetic look. For the manufacture of edges at home, only 2 of them are suitable:
Applicable edges
Modern technologies allow to produce various edges. However, not all are suitable for gluing at home. Melamine tapes are produced with a width of 19-54 mm. With a thickness of 0.2-0.4 mm, they allow you to ennoble the edges of the table top of various shapes.
A wide range of decors, which, in terms of color, most closely match the chipboard.
PVC strip of the same width may be slightly thicker. For gluing the ends of the countertops, edges are produced with and without an adhesive layer applied.
PVC plastic obtained by extrusion is able to withstand temperatures from minus 10 to plus 50 degrees.
Tools
If you decide to glue the edge yourself, check the availability of tools. Prepare before you start:
In order to fix the PVC edges, you can use a clamp and a wooden block. If possible, use a hand router to finish the edge of the edge.
The milling cutter is expensive and it is unprofitable to buy it for one-time gluing.
Prepare your workspace, taking into account the space for turning the countertop. And, most importantly, buy the appropriate melamine tape or PVC edging.
Choose a ribbon that matches the color of the countertop.Melamine tape
The cheapest and affordable way edge beautification. Does not require the purchase of glue and specialized tools. Everything you need can be found in any household, and the process will take a few minutes.
The edge processed in this way looks very neat.
It should be used to finish the inaccessible edge of the countertop. At the same time, do not forget about dampness, which will penetrate under the edge and destroy the material.
The technology of pasting looks quite simple.
pvc strip
A more progressive and aesthetically pleasing way. True, some skill is required to implement it, but after practicing on scraps, you can master this method.
The edge, resistant to abrasion and moisture, will ensure long-term operation of the tabletop in any interior.
When sticking PVC edge, follow the following sequence.
Properly selected and glued edge will give the tabletop an attractive look, and it will serve you for many years.
Such a smooth and neat edge can also be obtained independently.
VIDEO: Gluing furniture melamine edges with an iron.
50 original types of countertops:
Melamine edge, which you can buy on our website, is the most common and affordable edge material for furniture finishing. Such an edge tape is produced from a textured paper web by applying urea (melamine) resins to it. To protect the material from evaporation of melamine, a layer of special varnish is applied to it. A variety of colors and textures of the edging tape provides multi-color printing.
Which melamine edge to buy?
Melamine furniture edge is sold by manufacturers in two versions:
- Edge without glue - designed for automated production. When applied to furniture, it requires specialized equipment to heat the granular adhesive.
- Melamine edge with glue - can be applied to chipboard cut or furniture facade by direct heating.
On the website of MDM-Komplekt (Moscow) you can buy edging material wholesale and retail. Melamine edging with and without glue is sold in reels, the price of the product is per linear meter.
Why do chipboard edging and how to glue the edge with an iron
Chipboard - the most suitable material for the production of reliable and high-quality inexpensive furniture. In order to hide the not too aesthetically looking internal structure of the product, edging is performed from the side of the end - the installation of special decorative panels made of melamine, PVC or other available species synthetic plastics.
Why else edge furniture
In addition to the most obvious goal - to provide an elegant appearance, furniture edging performs several other equally important tasks:
- Moisture protection. It is known that when wet, chipboard swells, loses its original shape and strength. The edge from plastic interferes with penetration of moisture from ends. This is especially true for rooms where water flows are constantly present - kitchen, bathroom, dining room, etc.
The edge, in addition to giving the furniture a finished look, performs several more important functions.
Where to hem
Furniture manufacturers often edging only the visible parts of the end surfaces. From the point of view of economy, this looks quite understandable, but taking into account the above facts, this approach can result in certain problems - the protective edge must be present in all places where there is an open internal chipboard structure.
If you purchased furniture with unprotected edges, it is quite possible to do their edging yourself at home. To do this, you do not need to have any special equipment - the edge can be glued with an ordinary iron.
Do not be too lazy to spend a few minutes on this operation - you will reliably protect yourself and your furniture and significantly extend its service life. Next, we will analyze in detail how to properly glue the edge tape with your own hands.
Edge materials
The edging of open surfaces of furniture can be performed using different decorative elements, differing in the quality of the material, appearance and, accordingly, cost.
- Melamine tape. The simplest and cheapest edge. It is used in budget products and can be destroyed by moisture or mechanical stress. The main advantage of such a tape is the price and ease of application.
Advantages and disadvantages of melamine edging
How to glue the edge with an iron
Edging in production is done with a tape with a clean base. The adhesive composition is applied to it during installation at a high temperature, which ensures the formation of a thin, even layer. In order to stick the edge, several rollers are used, tightly pressing it to the base of the chipboard. Then special cutters cut the tape to the size of the part, remove the remnants of glue and base material and grind the junction until a smooth and beautiful surface is obtained.
You can also glue the edge at home. To do this, you need to use a tape with an already applied adhesive composition. Further, the process largely repeats industrial edging, since it is performed similarly:
- Melamine tape can be glued with an ordinary household iron. To do this, it is necessary to cut off a piece of the edge with a margin in length and width, put it on the end face to be processed and gently smooth it with an iron. After passing through the iron, the heated surface must be pressed with a wooden block or any other object that can transfer the necessary load.
When heated, the glue firmly glues the edge to the chipboard
The edge trimming knife must be very sharp.
You can find more information about the process of gluing edges on chipboard below:
Sticking a U-shaped profile on the end of the chipboard is somewhat easier. We have discussed this method before. Such an edge is much stronger than melamine, bends quite easily and reliably protects against damage.
The presence of micro-gaps between the edge of the U-profile and the front surface of the chipboard does not allow gluing it in the kitchen or in the bathroom, therefore, edging with this material is mainly used for office furniture.
Edging chipboard, of course, is best done in the factory. In production, you can order a tape from any materials, including plastic, PVC and other modern composite materials. Edging on the machine will ensure perfect evenness and accuracy of application decorative cladding, but requires certain costs. If the main task is to meet a predetermined small budget, applying a melamine tape with your own hands will allow you to combine acceptable quality and the lowest price.
You might be interested to know
http://drevplity.ru
Melamine edging is a traditional edging material used in the manufacture of cabinet furniture from laminated chipboard. Despite the fact that today there are more wear-resistant edging materials, for example, based on PVC or ABS, melamine edging is one of the first places in terms of applicability. There are two main reasons for this: low price and simplicity of edging technology. Let us show how, using simple and available tools it is possible to qualitatively trim a part from chipboard.
Edging tools:
- Iron. Any will do, but preferably small, without steam holes and with a thick sole. It is important that the soleplate of the iron is clean and without deep scratches.
- Knife. You can work with an ordinary clerical (construction) knife, which will be discussed below. Also, a shoe knife and a knife from a planer are suitable. There are special ready-made fixtures for fast edge trimming, e.g. from Virutex.
- Bar with sandpaper. You can buy ready-made or make it yourself by sticking a piece of sandpaper on a workpiece that is suitable in size (it is convenient when the bar has sandpaper of different grain sizes on different sides). The recommended grain size is 150 units.
Edge technology.
It should be said that the quality of the edging largely depends on how well the chipboard is cut. The end surface of the part should be flat, without a visible step from the scoring (saw) disk of the panel saw, there should be no obvious chips of the laminate and “lifting” of the laminate when the chip has just begun to form. Quality and fast cutting chipboard performed only on special equipment. The edge must be used with pre-applied adhesive. Edgebanding is sold in coils of 200 pm, but almost always it can be bought in 1 pm or more. A typical melamine edge has a width of 19 mm and a thickness of 0.3-0.4 mm (excluding adhesive thickness).
The process of processing the edge of one end of the part consists of the following steps:
- The part is installed vertically in an improvised holding device so that the end face being machined is on top.
- The edge segment is measured 2-4 cm more than the length of the machined side of the part.
- The edge is placed exactly in the center on the end of the part, with equal releases along the edges.
- Holding the position of the edge on the part with one hand, the edge is smoothed with a hot iron (the temperature of the iron is selected experimentally; at too high a temperature, the edge begins to bubble; at a low temperature, it sticks badly or for a long time). It should be pressed with moderate force on the iron. Excessive pressure may cause edge displacement, insufficient pressure may cause non-glue. Indirect confirmation of good edge heating can be slightly squeezed out glue from under the edge. Special attention should be given to the ends of the edge and the places of its contact with the laminated surfaces of the part.
- After warming up the edge, it must be cooled. A small cloth is suitable for this operation. The edge is smoothed with a cloth, pressing lightly so that the edge does not move away when cooling. After the edge has cooled down to approx. 50°C (wait until the edge has room temperature makes no sense), you can start cutting off the excess.
- First remove the excess from the ends. To do this, the free ends of the edge are gently bent down, the edge is broken, the fracture site is lightly sanded with an emery bar and the excess is simply torn off. It remains to work a little more with an emery bar so that the edge is flush with the mating side (does not protrude or cling).
- To cut off the excess edge along the length, it is necessary to set the knife blade at an angle of approximately 45 ° (see photo) and draw the knife along the end of the part. Angle of inclination (adjacent) relative to the plane of the part is determined experimentally (depending on the knife). This operation requires skill and practice. It is important not to damage the laminate (do not chip). After cutting off all the overhangs, you need to slightly process the edges of the end of the part with a bar with sandpaper, and the edging can be considered complete. Excess glue can be easily removed with a cloth soaked in acetone or gasoline. If a local non-glue is noticed, then the problem area must be heated with an iron and pressed again with a cloth. Also, by reheating, the edge can be completely removed from the part.
Edging kit: iron, knife, bar with sandpaper.
Bar with glued sandpaper.
In the manufacture of furniture from laminated chipboard, the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, a furniture edge and a profile are used. It is more convenient to work with them on special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.
Types of furniture edges
One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the ugly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. They make it from different materials, respectively, it has different properties and price.
Paper or melamine edges
The cheapest option is melamine impregnated paper edges. Paper is taken with increased density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and pasted on papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layered (cheaper) and double-layered. To prevent the melamnov coating from being erased, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the reverse side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, it is only necessary to warm up this composition slightly and press it well against the end.
Paper or melamine edging - the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture
The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are the most common. There is no point in doing it thicker, and it will turn out expensive.
This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But its mechanical strength is very low - the edge is quickly worn out. Therefore, if it is used, then only on those surfaces that are not subjected to stress. For example, on the back of shelves, countertops, etc.
PVC
Polyvinyl chloride, which has recently become widespread, is also used in the production of edges for furniture. From the mass painted in a certain color, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth monophonic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it is easy to choose the right one.
PVC furniture edge is the most popular material used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:
PVC furniture edge is available in different thicknesses and widths. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. There is a furniture PVC edge with an applied adhesive composition, there is - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).
This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature range: from -5 ° C to + 45 ° C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heating, you must be careful not to melt the polymer.
Made of ABS (ABS) plastic
This polymer does not contain heavy metals, is characterized by high strength and durability. The disadvantage can be considered a high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:
This type of edge can be matte, glossy, semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate different types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to work with and more durable in use.
Veneer edge
Veneer is a thin slice of wood that has been dyed and shaped into a ribbon. This furniture edge is used in production when pasting slices of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.
Veneer is not the most popular material for edging
Acrylic edge or 3D
Made from clear acrylic. A pattern is applied on the reverse side of the strip. The polymer layer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. It is used in the manufacture of furniture in an unusual design.
Furniture edge profiles
You can finish the edge of furniture not only with an edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are mechanically fastened. They have two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).
A groove is milled under the T-shaped furniture profiles in the processed edge. A profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the corner look attractive. It is brought to perfect condition with fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum, with the same installation method they look very different, and the differences are significant.
In width, they are available for chipboard 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.
C- or U-shaped profiles are most often mounted on glue. They coat the edge with them, then put on a plastic profile, press well and fix. These PVC profiles are soft and hard. Rigid ones bend worse and it is difficult to paste over curved edges with them. But they have great strength.
If you still need to "plant" a rigid C-shaped furniture profile in a bend, it is heated with a building hair dryer, then given the desired shape and fixed with masking tape until the glue dries.
We glue the furniture edge with our own hands
There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those who have glue applied on the back. In this case, you need an iron or a building hair dryer. The second is for sticking tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good all-purpose glue that can glue plastics and wood products and a furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.
A little about how thick the edge to glue on what parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, you can not glue them at all, but basically they try to process them so that moisture is less absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or PVC 0.4 mm is glued to these edges. The edges of drawers (not facades) are also processed.
On the front ends of the facade and drawers it is better to use PVC 2 mm, and on the visible sections of the shelves - PVC 1 mm. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.
How to glue the edging with glue yourself
The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge, it happens on PVC. If you have chosen PVC, it is easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine ones are easy to glue.
We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, a dense cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. For this purpose, a building hair dryer is also suitable. We put the iron on about “deuce”, while it is heated, cut off a piece of tape. Length - a couple of centimeters more than the workpiece.
We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it. Small pieces should hang down from both sides. We take an iron and, through a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, warming up until the glue melts. It is necessary to warm up evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.
The edge can be cut with a knife, both sharp and blunt side. Someone uses a regular metal ruler, someone is more comfortable with a stainless steel spatula.
So, we take the tool of your choice, cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic are perfectly cut with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may already arise. Such edges are possible, if any. This guarantees a good result in a short time. Longer processing will last if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.
One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part must be even, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, because of which all defects are visible. Therefore, first go through the cuts with sandpaper, then carefully dedust, degrease. Only after that you can glue.
Edging with PVC tape (without adhesive on the reverse side)
With this method of self-gluing PVC edges, you need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue, perform all the actions on the recommendation. For example, for Moment glue, it is necessary to apply on the surface and distribute the composition, wait 15 minutes, press the surfaces to be glued strongly.
Apply glue and wait - no problem. To tightly press the edge to the cut, you can use a wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a bar, you can take a construction grater, and also attach felt to its sole. In extreme cases, you can roll up a dense fabric in several layers and thereby press the tape to the surface.
The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all the weight, pressing it against the chipboard surface. The movements at the same time are stroking. So iron the entire edge, achieving a very snug fit. In this form, the part is left for a while - so that the glue "grabs". Then you can start processing the edge.
Everyone who has ever encountered laminated chipboard knows that a plate made of this material has smooth surfaces with a textured pattern, while its end parts are a hodgepodge of wood chips with glue. In order to give the parts sawn from such a plate a presentation, a process such as chipboard edging was invented. It is a gluing on the ends of the details of a decorative strip - "edge", which can be either in color with the chipboard decor or different from it.
To date, two main types of edges are used:
- PVC edge
- melamine edge
PVC edge used in the factory manufacture of furniture, it is more reliable, durable, durable, but the edging procedure when using it is quite laborious. In furniture workshops, special edge-cutting machines are used. PVC edge thickness is 2 mm and 0.4 mm. The width also varies depending on the thickness of the chipboard sheets.
Melamine edge less durable, but requires a minimum of tools to stick and is widely used among home furniture makers. But due to the low mechanical resistance, its use is limited. Personally, I glue the melamine edge mainly on drawers. The reverse side of the melamine edge is always covered with hot-melt adhesive, and it itself is sufficiently resistant to elevated temperatures, so it is enough to stick it simple iron. It is only thin (0.4 mm) and has never been seen wider than 20 mm.
Since our site is devoted to a greater extent to work at home, first we will analyze how.
So, for work, we need the edge itself, an ordinary iron, a metal ruler, a clamp or a vise (optional), fine sandpaper on a bar.
The edge sticker technique itself is as simple as a nail:
Now let's figure out how to glue PVC edge with your own hands, i.e. without using a edging machine. Such an edge will last much longer than melamine, besides 2 mm and looks "richer". It is worth mentioning that the PVC edge can be either already with an adhesive layer (hot melt adhesive) or without it. In the first case, edging occurs with the help of a building hair dryer, and in the second case, it is necessary to purchase glue. Let's consider the second method in more detail, because. it is more economical.
Let's start with gluing 0.4mm PVC edges. To fix it, it is best to use contact types of glue, for example, 3M ™ Scotch-Grip, Moment Crystal, Titanium or "88". It should be noted that it is more convenient to work with liquid glue (3M), it is easier to level and its consumption is much less. We work with glue according to the instructions indicated on the package.
Contact adhesive can be replaced with hot melt adhesive. For this you will need glue gun with a set of rods and an industrial hair dryer.
For work, we need a roller to press the edge (it can be successfully replaced with a rag or a piece of felt boots)), the glue itself, a spatula for leveling the glue or a simple brush, as you like, a wide chisel or a knife from a planer to remove excess edges, a sanding block with a fine sandpaper .
You will learn about what edges are, as well as how to glue them and how to glue an edge with an iron and a hairdryer, from this article.
- The most common type is melamine edge with paper based adhesive. It is applied to finishing of internal sites of furniture. Affordable, inexpensive, but not the best quality option. Does not tolerate moisture, wears out quickly. Easy to stick at home with a simple iron.
- T-shaped flexible profile - is a T-shaped bar, it is inserted into a slot in the side of the chipboard or MDF. It is convenient to replace the damaged element in the future without disassembling the furniture. Installation requires a milling machine.
- PVC edging - reliably protects the ends of furniture from damage, is wear-resistant, resistant to moisture. Gluing PVC edging will require an edger, so using this type of edge at home is difficult.
- ABS plastic is an eco-friendly, chlorine-free option. Valued for resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.
All options can be divided into two subspecies - edges without glue and with glue.
The average cost of a profile per linear meter:
- PVC 0.4 mm thick - about 25 rubles,
- PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
- Melamine material for chipboard - about 25 rubles.
In our country, products from Rehau are actively used, which offers a large selection of colors, as well as different tape widths from 15 to 45 mm.
To simplify the work, you can use various specialized furniture programs that will calculate how much material is needed to glue the edges.
PVC edge - how to glue in stages at home
For work you will need:
- iron or building hair dryer,
- and of course buy a PVC edge with glue
- hard roller,
- newspaper or paper sheet
The material is heated to make the adhesive sticky. Heating is performed with an iron in the "Synthetics" mode.
- The profile is applied to the end in such a way that it overlaps the end of the section.
- Next, the iron again performs heating through the newspaper. Since the glue dissolves quickly, the process is quite active, and it is convenient to move the iron along the PVC edge.
- The edge itself must be carefully pressed and ironed until it sticks along the entire length.
- Gluing with a building hair dryer. Instead of an iron, you can use a building hair dryer. The PVC edge is heated from the adhesive side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end of the desired area, clamped and gently smoothed.
- Gluing with Moment glue. This method is suitable if there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The quality of the butt is checked manually, sawdust, rubbish, dust are removed until the surface is clean. Then glue is applied to both the material and the end and wait until it sets. After that, apply and press. Using a roller, the area is rolled so that the glue grabs faster.
How to remove excess material
If it was not possible to carefully glue the edge the first time, the procedure will have to be repeated. To do this, glue is again applied to the area and the profile is clamped with a roller or manually.
Since usually the width of the PVC edges is taken with a margin, you need to carefully remove the excess along the edges. To do this, use a regular clerical knife or file. It is taken with both hands and pressed on the protruding fragment. As a result, the excess parts are broken off and an edge remains that matches the width of the site.
After everything is glued, it remains to process the bumps with sandpaper.
Melamine edging is the best option for home use when you need to restore old furniture at a minimal cost. If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals who use other more expensive and high-quality material.
Consider, how to glue the edge on a chipboard tabletop at home.
GREAT VIDEO RELATED TO THE TOPIC
To work, you will need the following materials:
- skin,
- sharply sharpened knife-jamb,
- wallpaper roller,
- melamine edge,
- building hair dryer or iron.
- select the operating mode of the iron so that it does not get too hot and does not burn the chipboard and at the same time ensures proper melting of the glue,
- process the edges of the chipboard for gluing with sandpaper, eliminate irregularities,
- measure the profile
- heat it with an iron and press it firmly against the area with a roller (if there is no adhesive layer, you will need to apply glue to the edge yourself, for example, Moment glue),
- cut off the hanging edges of the edge with a knife.
It is necessary to cut at an angle along the edge, slightly wringing the material. Then it remains to sand the edges so that there are no burrs and irregularities.
If the cut of the edge and the chipboard itself are slightly different, the stain will help correct the difference.
In the case when the part has a complex shape, and the edge of the surface is characterized by complex relief, it is not always possible to glue the material evenly the first time. In such a situation, it is worth contacting professionals so as not to spoil the product.
Types of edge glue
Furniture professionals actively use hot melt adhesives for edging. They are convenient if the production will be put on stream, and both high quality results and fast speed are required.
Hot melt adhesives are thermoplastics, which means that when heated they become very elastic and when cooled they harden quickly. The polymer of ethylene with vinyl acetate, which is part of the adhesive, is responsible for these properties. The disadvantage of using is the need to use special equipment, namely the appropriate machines or hand guns for applying glue to parts and heating it.
- In domestic conditions, PVC glue is often used, which sticks paper materials well to various surfaces. Homogeneous without lumps of light color, the mass glues surfaces well, but is afraid of moisture. It does not require the use of additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for non-professional masters to use.
- Universal adhesives "Moment and 88-Lux" are suitable, which will reliably glue the material to the surface of chipboard and PVC. After 3-4 hours the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, safe and available.
- Of the professional furniture edge adhesive, it is worth noting products from Kleiberit. The company offers hot melt adhesives for cladding, for gluing the material using the soft-forming method (in case the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.
Today we will analyze a more professional technique for gluing the end decorative edge. This is hot glue edging with a hair dryer. Naturally, without professional equipment, we will disassemble in an amateur manner, accessible to any garage master.
For work, we need a 2 mm PVC edge with hot glue applied to it - it is applied with a special roller in the form of a grid.
It can be purchased at furniture stores footage. If the store does not sell the edge with the applied adhesive layer, then it can be applied in furniture workshops for a fee (as a rule, it does not exceed 5 rubles per linear meter).
- In addition to the edge itself, we need a thermal gun (aka an industrial hair dryer),
- and edge router, with a molding curly cutter with a ball bearing installed in it.
- Additional elements are a fabric glove (one is enough) and a felt block.
Let's move on to the methodology itself. It is better to set the hair dryer to medium values \u200b\u200b(about 300-400 degrees Celsius).
We fix the workpiece on the workbench (horizontally - if it is large and vertically in the clamp, if it is small). To begin with, we warm up the tip of the edge tape - it should soften a little and acquire elasticity.
While the glue has not hardened, we apply the heated edge to the end face of the workpiece. We press the attached edge with a felt block tightly to the part for 10-20 seconds until the glue cools.
Then, directing a stream of hot air into the gap between the part and the edge tape, we heat the latter, by 10-15 centimeters in length,
after which we set aside the hair dryer, take a bar and roll the heated tape with sliding movements.
This manipulation is repeated over and over again. At the same time, it is not worth overheating the edge (it should not acquire pronounced plastic properties). If only to a minimal extent - the edge, as it were, begins to reach for the workpiece - then it’s enough to heat, it is necessary to press. This moment comes with experience.
It is important not only not to overheat, but also not to underheat. In the first case, the edge will acquire excessive plasticity and may go in waves. In the second case, it simply does not stick.
Now let's move on to the next stage, which is quite difficult at first - this is the processing or pasting of the corner radius (moreover, it is easier to glue the outer one than the inner one). I described >>.
In this case, the edge must be just overheated so that it is easily molded along the pasted profile.
After warming up, when the edge has softened, we quickly press the edge to the surface, trying to come along the entire corner.
At first, it may not work, that is, you must first practice.
After we have glued the entire edge tape, we proceed to remove the excess, that is, the overhangs. You can cut off the ends with a pruner or simply break it off, after scratching it with a sharp object (I usually use method 1).
Overhangs on the edges are removed with a special edge cutter.
It is rather problematic to do this manually, due to the large thickness of the edge. The cutter cuts off the excess while rounding off the remaining edge. 
Excess glue, which is often not removed with a cutter, can be scraped off with a simple metal ruler.
Often, after removing the overhangs, there are prominent places of “non-gluing”.
Personally, I usually get them at the corners. How to be with them? Again, we take the hair dryer and warm up the non-glued area from the outside, trying to blow a stream of air into the gap.
Warming up for 5-6 seconds, put off the hair dryer and firmly press the area with a felt bar to the surface of the part for 20-30 seconds.
As a rule, this is enough to glue the edge and remove the gap.
Now it remains only to polish the milled edge, which has a rough structure.
To do this, we make several vigorous movements along the cut edge of the edge.
At the same time, the felt warms up a little, melts the PVC, which smooths out all the bumps.
And photo finished work(this will be a countertop with a rounded corner).
This technique is used even in small professional workshops when processing radius parts, because large stationary automatic edgers, as a rule, do not have the ability to stick edges on roundings, and not everyone considers purchasing small specialized units cost-effective (at least in a furniture workshop, with whom I work with, this is exactly the case).
