Insulation of a house from a bar: outside or inside, an overview of materials and technologies. Insulation of a wooden house from profiled timber for long-term residence Prices for facade panels

The beam from which it is assembled is also used for the construction of load-bearing structures or fences. In fact, this is a log after edging from 2, 3 or 4 sides. Three-sided processing gives a bar with a front side that imitates a log surface.

Beam and bar are different concepts. The thickness of the diameter is less than 100 mm - a bar. To assemble the house, the beam must be made of pine (for better breathability) and have a section of 150x150 or 190x150 mm.

For low-rise housing construction use:

solid timber (cheap, but burdened in the long term with long-term shrinkage);
glued (high-tech, with specified useful properties, and therefore expensive material);
profiled (with a tongue-and-groove joint laid during processing - this removes internal pressure leading to wood cracking).

Profiled timber is made from solid wood or glued from lamella boards. The last option is devoid of flaws and belongs to premium class building materials. This type of lumber differs and by surface treatment:

profiled timber (German) - "comb";
profiled timber (Finnish) - with two spikes for connection;
profiled timber with cups - rifling for corner joints;
timber with a flat front surface;
beam with a convex front surface.

What makes timber the preferred material in private housing construction

Blessed for design appearance, the ability to play with color and texture.
Simplicity and waste-free construction.
Factory surface treatment suitable for applying finishing materials (lining oil, paints).
Environmental friendliness of the building while maintaining a healthy microclimate.
Superiority in operational properties over rounded logs.
Comparative economy.

All appearing later flaws houses made of timber are a consequence of violations of the technology for the production of this material.

No matter how carefully the walls are assembled from profiled timber, it is impossible to avoid looseness and cracks. They make the house windy and permeable to low temperatures.

That's why milestone construction is the correct insulation of the house from a bar - internal and external.

Insulation of a house from profiled timber

Traditional tow has received in our days effective competitors: jute, linen, ecowool, mineral wool, fiberglass, expanded polystyrene, thermal basalt. To evenly distribute the insulation between the crowns, ribbons of fibrous materials in the form of a non-woven fabric are used, which are attached to the wood with a stapler or glue.

Choosing a heater should be guided not only its heat-saving properties, but also susceptibility to open fire, fungal and mold lesions.

What is meant by "insulation of a wooden house"

Warming a house from a bar can mean just protection against blowing, or protection against the ingress of cold air. And you can consider this process as a set of conservation measures internal heat in winter conditions. Each of the targets will require different insulation materials, different technologies implementation of this stage of construction, varying degrees of complexity of the measures taken.

The most unpretentious warming is caulking of interventional cracks. It is carried out in 2 stages: at the first (during the assembly period), pieces of tow are laid between a pair of beams, at the second (after shrinkage of the house) - the tow is tucked into the slot with a special spatula using a hammer. The process is simple, but time-consuming and time-consuming.

Insulation of the house from the inside

Whatever insulation is used in this case, its primary task of preserving heat is certainly combined with sound insulation from the external environment. Wall insulation inside should not significantly reduce the size of the premises, so the insulation boards are chosen no thicker than 3 cm. environmental Safety and resistance to destruction by rodents. On top of the insulation, usually, the walls are lined with plasterboard.

The technology of proper insulation of a house from a bar outside

Insulation works log house outside, they begin with checking the quality of the joints after reaching the natural moisture content of the beam, choosing a heat insulator and calculating it required thickness(up to 7 cm). Now there is a convenient opportunity to calculate with an online calculator on the Internet.

Worth considering that insulation work will not greatly affect the dimensions, but can unrecognizably change the appearance of the building, so you need to immediately decide on the type of future cladding (plaster, siding, false timber) and the proposed finishing work.

External insulation can be done in the following way:

arrange a hinged ventilated facade;
insulate the outside with polyurethane coating;
insulate with foam.

Required insulation tools.

Roulette and level with a plumb line.
Hacksaw.
Self-tapping screws.
Staircase or scaffolding.
Lumber for framing.

The sequence of works on the installation of a hinged ventilated facade

If the timber used in construction was dry, then hinged facade you can start doing immediately after the construction of the log house.

First of all, it is necessary to close up the interventional gaps (see "caulking").
The crate begins to be assembled from a frame of bars (50x70 along the height of the insulation). They are fixed to the wall vertically with nails, in increments along the width of the insulation.
According to the technology of the ventilated facade, the crate is made two-level to obtain a gap of 3 cm between the insulation and the finish coating.
Insulation plates are laid end-to-end between the structures of the crate.
A special material (diffuse membrane) is stretched, fastening construction stapler to the crate.
Strengthen the finishing material of the facade.

This type of insulation makes the façade stable to any kind of atmospheric phenomena, prevents rotting and mold, preserves the ability of wooden walls to "breathe".

Insulation by spraying polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam- Polymer #1 adheres well to a clean, oil-free surface. Applied in several passes with special equipment under pressure with a layer of 50 mm on a wall made of timber, it forms a moisture-proof film without seams and cracks and closes the pores of wood. This coating is removed under the hinged facade of the finishing material.

The method is very simple and economical, carried out without lifting mechanisms and scaffolding. A significant advantage is resistance to open fire, the duration of the preservation of heat-shielding qualities, resistance to rotting processes and exposure to bacteria.

However, should be provided when designing a house, a ventilation system, effectively problem solving vapor barrier polyurethane film.

Foam insulation

Insulation of a timber house with polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) can be done both from the inside and outside. It is an inexpensive and effective material in use. For insulation work take plates 5 cm thick and special glue.

Starting profiles are attached horizontally to clean, dry walls at the bottom to prevent slipping of the cladding.
Glue is applied both to the foam and to the place of gluing, lubricating the joints.
Work is carried out from the bottom up.
Glue drying time - 3 days.
After drying, the foam is additionally strengthened with special dowels.
Subsequent work is carried out after the primer layer.

Shrinkage of profile timber up to 3-4% occurs in the first six months - a year.
When working with insulation, it is important to observe safety measures: eye protection - goggles, hand protection - gloves, respiratory protection - respirator.
Insulation cannot be stored outdoors: getting wet will reduce its heat-shielding properties.
Insulation plates can be installed at a distance without additional fasteners, if the distance between the elements of the crate is reduced by 1.5 cm.
Spray insulation can be done at a temperature of at least 10 degrees.
Organic heaters are subject to destruction by rodents.

Profiled timber attracts many Russians with its affordability and excellent thermal characteristics. However, most of them mistakenly believe that such a house does not have to be insulated. Of course, I want to preserve the unique wooden flavor of the interior and exterior of the building, but comfortable living is more important. In matters of warming a house from a profiled beam, there are some nuances. We will tell about them today.

When can you not insulate?

In fact, profiled timber does not always need to be insulated. If the house is being built in a region with a warm climate or for temporary (seasonal) residence, then it does not need insulation. The boards fit snugly enough to each other and are able to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the absence of too low temperatures.

Such a cottage - perfect option for fans of eco-friendly wooden houses. The owners will be able to admire the beauty of the log house both inside and outside in summer. They will also enjoy pleasant coolness in hot weather and warmth in case of an unexpected cold snap.

If the house is built for permanent residence then it needs to be insulated. It is also recommended to make warming in the baths. How to do this depends on the thickness and type of profiled timber.

What is profiled timber?

This material can be very different in cross section. Thanks to this master, it is easy to choose boards for the desired building.

The thinnest profiled beam reaches 95 millimeters in width and 145 millimeters in height.

The rest are significantly larger than 195x145.

You must understand that even the thickest profiled timber is not able to fully protect against the cold in winter. Especially in the far north. The house needs additional insulation.

In any case, it is necessary to carefully select the material. High-quality profiled timber has a high degree of drying (humidity up to 20%). Compliance with the technology in the manufacture of the material prevents shrinkage and deformation of the walls subsequently. For this reason, even when working with the best specialists they need to be controlled when buying timber. You live in the house, and each mistake then repeatedly comes back to haunt you with problems.

The level of thermal insulation to some extent depends on the selected profile. It can also be different:

with one spike;

with two spikes;

with bevelled chamfers;

"comb";

Finnish profile.

Of course, it is easiest to lay the last option, but the “comb” wins in terms of thermal insulation characteristics. If you need to build a house in a region with a harsh climate, choose it.

Stages of home insulation

If you want to minimize heat loss, then you need to thoroughly approach the insulation. It needs a foundation, floor, walls, roof. In each case, it is necessary to take into account the features of the designated elements of the house. Only then will it be possible to make housing truly comfortable.

Foundation

The base of the house is best insulated from the outside. So you save money, protect the foundation from freezing and destruction during sudden temperature changes. In addition, in this case, the basement area will be preserved, which is also important.

Internal insulation is permissible only when external insulation is not possible. The house was originally built without external insulation of the foundation, and this omission must be eliminated.

The main materials for external insulation:

polyurethane foam;

extruded polystyrene foam.

Polyurethane foam has excellent hydro, heat and sound insulation characteristics. It is applied using special equipment. The layer of material must be at least 50 millimeters.

Advantages of polyurethane foam:

work does not take much time;

lack of cold bridges in the foundation;

no gaps or seams.

It takes more time to lay extruded polystyrene foam. However, it costs much less and practically does not absorb moisture, which provides the maximum level of waterproofing.

Insulation must be installed at a freezing depth. This is the most rational use of material, means and time.

Installation should be carried out along the walls of the building. This will reduce the depth and degree of freezing.

floors

Even if the floorboards fit snugly together, over time they dry out and gaps form. To avoid removing the coating and carrying out insulation work in the future, it is better to do everything correctly at the initial stage.

Floor insulation involves the use of not only insulation, but also vapor and waterproofing. The choice of materials depends on the type of floor, so before starting work it is better to consult with a specialist.

The most common way to insulate the floor is by joists. To do this, logs are installed in the foundation or log house in a T-shape. From below, shields are nailed to them, on which they are installed the right materials. First, hydro and vapor barrier, then insulation, and the third layer is hydro and vapor barrier again.

The finished floor is laid after these works.

Walls

Can be insulated both outside and inside. There is another option for those who do not want to give up the wooden aesthetics of the beam - interventional insulation.

The choice already depends on your preferences. Do you want to admire the solid wood both in the interior and exterior? Choose interventional insulation. If only the appearance of the house is important for you and the reduction in the area of \u200b\u200brooms does not scare you, insulate inside. When only the interior matters, and siding or facing bricks seem attractive, then external insulation is best suited.

Materials:

for interventional insulation, sheep wool, linen, linen or jute are used, the last option is a novelty on the construction market, which has excellent performance characteristics;

for external insulation, you can take foam or cotton material;

for internal - only cotton wool insulation.

Be sure to install vapor barrier materials to prevent moisture from being absorbed by the insulation. Also take care of the ventilation in the house to ensure a comfortable climate in the house.

The ceiling is insulated in the same way as the floor, and the technology of roof insulation is similar to the thermal insulation of walls. We will not dwell on these points.

For details when carrying out insulation work, it is better to consult a specialist. He will be able to give the best advice in your particular case.

Timber houses were once quite common, they were built for the resettlement of people in small towns and villages, they were built at the expense of the local administration in the village. Now, municipal housing is not being built from timber at all. But there are enough such houses left, and private construction is now experiencing a boom in this material. Therefore, the insulation of a house from a profiled beam or from an ordinary one is enough actual question both for the developer of new housing and for the owner of the old one.

The beam, which is used in the assembly of houses, is also used as a supporting structure. Therefore, its insulation will also have a positive effect on its durability as the basis of the supporting structure of the whole house, be it a one-story small house, or municipal three-story apartment building.

How to insulate a house, during the construction of which profiled timber was used

Previously (since ancient times) tow was used to insulate inter-log gaps. In the last century, the insulation of a house from profiled timber, when they began to use this technology, began to be carried out with the help of jute fiber, linen.

Now, for this, various variations of ecowool, mineral wool boards, fiberglass boards, expanded polystyrene, and basalt wool are increasingly being used.

A uniform layer of insulating fiber in the interventional space is provided with the help of tapes made of fibrous materials, which are non-woven fabrics attached to the tree with a stapler or glue.

In addition to interventional insulation, they use outdoor installation insulation both sheets and inflatable method. Ecowool, mineral wool, polyurethane foam - everything goes into business.

What is meant by the term "insulation of a house from glued laminated timber"

Insulating a house from glued laminated timber can protect the building from drafts or from the penetration of cool air. Also, insulation can be considered as a set of measures to ensure the preservation of heated air inside the house in winter frosts.

Depending on the specific need, the best insulation for a log house is selected, a specific technology for organizing this part of the construction process, and a different complexity of a set of measures.

One of the simplest processes of warming is the process of caulking interventional gaps. The house is insulated from profiled timber in this way in several steps:

At the stage of laying the bars, tow is placed between them.
After that (when the log house has already been assembled), the remaining gaps are caulked using a special spatula and a hammer, jute-linen fiber or the same tow.

The process is not complicated, but it is characterized by significant laboriousness and protracted time. In addition, the worker performing this process must be very careful - this work does not like haste.

The process of insulating walls from the inside

Regardless of what insulation is used for a timber house, its initial task is to ensure the safety of heat and noise and sound insulation of the interior.

It is worth noting that the insulation must be compact so that there is no significant reduction in the internal space of the insulated rooms. Also, the insulation for a timber house must be environmentally friendly and resistant to rodent attacks.

After the insulation of the house from the inside of the profiled timber is completed, the structure is closed with drywall, wooden / plastic lining or other facing material.
For a detailed article about the correct insulation of a log house from the inside, see our website in the "Warming" section.

Technologies that provide proper external insulation

Proper insulation of a house from a bar should begin with the fact that you need to check the quality of each of the joints, after the bars have dried out, select a thermal insulator and calculate the number of layers (the standard mineral wool thickness is 50 millimeters).

The process of external insulation is carried out in the following ways:

arrangement of a hinged ventilated facade;
insulation with external polyurethane coating;
insulation with foam.

Detailed article about external insulation wooden house Look at our website in the "Warming" section.

Stages of work on the arrangement of hinged ventilated facades

Insulation of the facade of a timber house, provided that the timber was dry, can be started upon completion of construction, since there is no need to wait for shrinkage. Work begins with caulking the interventional gaps (the process is described above).

The bars are fastened vertically with nails or self-tapping screws. The width between the bars should be slightly narrower than the width of the insulation.

We organize a two-level crate in order to obtain a gap of 30 mm between the surface of the insulation and the finish coating.

After that, the technology of warming a house from a bar provides for laying the insulation boards end-to-end. Following this, a diffuse membrane is stretched and attached to the crate with a stapler.

At the finish, we mount the material chosen for finishing the facade. For more information about the ventilated hinged facade, see the information at the link.

Insulation with polyurethane coating

With the help of polyurethane foam, it is possible to organize a homogeneous seamless layer, which is primarily required for warming a house from a bar. You can see a photo of the final layer here:

One has only to say that the process itself takes place in several stages, and the final layer should be at least 50 millimeters. Next, the insulation layer is closed with finishing materials.

The process of working with heaters mounted using the inflatable method is well shown in the article “Insulation of a timber house outside with ecowool”.

The process of insulation with foam boards

Thanks to the foam, it is possible to organize both an internal layer and an external layer of insulation. Warming a house from a profiled beam with foam plastic is similar to laying mineral wool.

The difference is that when using it, they do not use anchors, but a special adhesive, which is applied to prepared, grease-free walls. As in the previous methods, the insulation of a house made of glued laminated timber is completed with the use of finishing materials.

Choosing the best insulation

At the moment, two materials should be recognized as the best insulation for a log house:

Ecowool
Basalt wool

Both of these materials have all the necessary properties to be considered the best heaters:

They let water vapor out.
They do not burn and do not support combustion.
They are the least environmentally hazardous.
They have excellent, extremely low, thermal conductivity.

The only disadvantage of these two materials is their hydrophilicity; when wet, they lose their heat-insulating properties.

Standard section of a bar for frame house– 150 x 150 mm or 200 x 150 mm, and this is often not enough to support comfortable temperature in the house in winter due to the thickness of the walls of the building. Therefore, it is required to insulate a log house from the outside, and there are a lot of such technologies, as well as modern heat-insulating materials. It is considered an axiom that external insulation is much more effective than internal insulation, and this is true - the dew point shifts to a safe place, the amount of condensate decreases, the walls continue to “breathe”, but continue to retain and retain heat in the premises of the house.

Scheme of standard external insulation of working external surfaces of the house

Preparatory work on the outer walls

Before you start insulating a house from a bar from the outside, you should choose from the range of materials for thermal insulation the one that is best suited for a house of a particular design, select the technology for its installation and prepare the wall surfaces.

The preparation of wooden lumber walls is reduced to a visual inspection in order to detect cracks, mold and decay, detachment of islands of bark, defects in the installation and fastening of doors and windows, etc. Then the walls are caulked or gaps (if they are found) are sealed in another way, for example, putty with a special compound, the walls are treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant substances. The caulking of the outer wall is carried out by one of the three well-known special heat insulators that have proven themselves better than others - these are tow, flax (lnovatin) and jute.

The insulation is pushed into the slots with a special wooden spatula with a narrow and thin blade. If there is no such blade, a metal construction spatula with a blade length of 60, 80 or 120 mm is suitable.

Caulking of timber walls

There are two ways to caulk walls: insulating the walls of a timber house from the outside, stretching, and laying in a set.

Stretched thermal insulation of surfaces is done in the presence of narrow slots, in a set - wide. In the first case, the ventilation façade insulation is stretched across the gap with a thin layer and driven in with a caulk and a hammer until the space is completely filled. Laying in a set is carried out by forming balls from the insulation of a wooden house in the size of the gap, then in the same way tow or jute is driven into the gap. The thermal insulation of a wooden house always starts from the bottom row.

Choosing thermal insulation material, repelled by its operational characteristics:

Thermal conductivity coefficient;
Compressive strength factor;
Frost resistance;
The service life indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

You can choose from the following list:

Fibrous inorganic heaters - glass wool, mineral wool, stone or basalt wool;
Styrofoam in plates and sheets of different density;
Expanded polystyrene extruded (EPP);
Polyethylene foam (EPE);
Sprayed polyurethane foam (PPU);
Plates "Isoplat" windproof.

Types of heat-insulating materials for external insulation of a house from a bar

Mineral wool and substitutes

Mineral wool is an excellent thermal insulator, but it is hygroscopic, and this disadvantage makes it a highly specialized material. Or, warming with mineral wool log house, it is necessary to create additional layers of steam and waterproofing materials, so the use of mineral wool is not a cheap pleasure. When choosing the insulation of a log house from the outside with your own hands from mineral wool, you should take into account the average annual air humidity in the region and the building materials with which the house is lined outside. Another requirement for mineral wool is that a ventilated facade must be equipped on the house.

The table will help you choose the best material:

Styrofoam	polyurethane foam	Mineral wool	XPS plate
Cellular	Cellular and porous	Fibrous structure	Sealed honeycomb material
High moisture resistance	High moisture resistance	High moisture resistance	High moisture resistance
light weight	light weight	light weight	light weight
Density - medium	Density - low	Density - medium	Density - high
	Compressive strength - low	Compressive strength - medium	Compressive strength - high
Eco-friendly material	Eco-friendly material, but at a temperature ≥ 500С it evaporates CO2 and CO3	Eco-friendly material	Eco-friendly material
Partially suitable for mechanical stress
Disintegrates quickly in time	Long breaks down in time	durable material	durable material
Shattered under the sun	Doesn't break down under the sun	Doesn't break down under the sun	Doesn't break down under the sun

Comparison of materials for thermal conductivity

Insulation foam

Styrofoam is chosen based on its density - high density means low thermal conductivity. The table below will help you correctly navigate the characteristics of the foam when insulating a house made of wood:

A timber house can be insulated with any foam with standard thickness sheet or plate 5 or 10 cm.

Insulation of a timber house with foam plastic

Insulation with extruded (EPS) polystyrene foam

Before you insulate the EPPS house from a bar, think about exceeding the estimate - this heat-insulating material costs much more than polystyrene foam and mineral wool.

XPS is attached to the walls with glue, which should not contain acetone, toluene, water, ethyl acetate and all derivatives of these substances. Therefore, when using this insulation, it is recommended to buy such glue:

Adhesive foam brand "TechnoNIKOL";
Glue "Ceresit" CT-85;
Adhesive facade composition "Allfix";
Glue "Bitumast";
Glue "Illbruck PU-010" based on polyurethane;
Adhesive composition "Insta-Stick Universal-145345".

Attaching XPS to wood with glue

Polyethylene foam NPE

The advantages of NPE over other thermal insulation materials are as follows:

Small coefficient of thermal conductivity;
The elasticity and elasticity of the material allows it to be laid on uneven surfaces;
Light weight and low cost.

Foamed polyethylene is produced as a heater high pressure(PVD) and low (HDPE), the material is foiled with an aluminum layer on one or both sides. In individual construction, the following NPE brands are most often practiced:

Harness insulation "Vilaterm";
Roll heat insulator in the form of Thermopol mats. Mat thickness - 1.5-4 cm;
Roll insulation "Penofol". Has a foil layer on one or both sides.

Polyethylene foam for log house

When insulating a house with a layer of foamed polyethylene, it is not necessary to equip additional layers of vapor and waterproofing, and this is also a distinctive feature of the material - NPE is non-hygroscopic. And the low cost of polyethylene foam rolls gives good opportunity save the family budget without losing the quality of work on the insulation of the house from the outside.

Isoplat - windproof plates

The manufacturer is Finland, and everyone knows about frost there. "Isoplat" is made from fibers coniferous trees, without synthetic and harmful additives and additives. The standard product dimensions are 12 mm thick, 2700 mm long and 1200 mm wide, in terms of heat retention properties, such a 12 mm thick board equals 44 mm of pure wood.

The positive qualities of the insulation "Isoplat" ":

Sealed surface and elasticity, due to which the windproof plates cover the walls of the house very tightly;
The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the insulation "Isoplat" ": λ10 ≤ 0.045 W / m K;
Good vapor permeability allows the wall of the building to breathe, so the possibility of mold and other fungal diseases is minimized;
High moisture resistance due to the impregnation of the boards with paraffin;
Noise isolation - 23 dB. For comparison: a three-chamber PVC window has a sound insulation of 47 dB;
With dimensions of 2700 x 1200 x 12 mm and a weight of one plate of 9 kg, quick and easy installation on walls is ensured;
Guaranteed operating time - ≥ 50-70 years;
Absolute environmental friendliness, as the material is natural.

Insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house Izoplatom

The basics of warming a house from a bar

Wood is a hygroscopic material, so the surface of the walls can be deformed to a sufficiently large depth. Although the profiled laminated timber is impregnated with water-repellent substances, the material absorbs moisture, although in small quantities, but sufficient to cause wall deformations. First of all, deformations are manifested in the distortions of windows and doors, which have to be additionally insulated or remounted.

When insulating the house with Isoplatom, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap so that excess moisture comes out of the wood and does not deform it. Then a heat-insulating layer of slabs with decorative cladding made of siding, lining and other similar materials. Therefore, a ventilated facade for a timber building is required.

Scheme of insulation of a lumber house "Izoplatom" Methods of fastening plates "Isoplat" to a wooden surface

The ventilation facade scheme consists of the following layers:

wall surface;
Wooden or metal crate;
insulation layer;
Vapor barrier;
ventilation gap;
Decorative protective lining.

Regardless of the material of the insulation, be sure to observe the correct layer-by-layer fastening of building materials. And the last thing: between the layer of any insulation and the layer of decorative cladding, it is necessary to leave an air gap of ≈ 10 mm.

The thermal insulation characteristics of a beam with a section of 150x150 are insufficient to ensure comfortable living in the house during the cold winter period. In this regard, the owners of such a building inevitably ask themselves the question: how and with what to insulate the house? According to the rules of heat engineering, external insulation is much more efficient than internal insulation. Therefore, first of all, you need to take care of choosing the best heat-insulating material for specific conditions, suitable for use outside the house, and find out all the nuances of installation.

At the stage of preparation for the external insulation of a wooden building, several issues must be resolved:

which insulation is better;
how to lay it correctly;
how to prepare the walls of the house.

Regardless of which thermal insulation material is chosen, the walls of the 150x150 timber must be prepared. First of all, it is necessary to conduct a visual inspection and make sure that there are no signs of rotting wood, insects harmful to the tree, the need for additional fastening of the timber and finishing elements of window and door openings.

At the same time, they decide whether the walls need caulking. If empty slots are noticed, then before laying the insulation they must be filled with the appropriate material. Caulking walls is a simple, but time-consuming process. Knowing the rules and tricks of this business will greatly simplify its implementation.

To eliminate the gaps between the bars, three materials are traditionally used:

tow;
jute;
lnovatin, etc.

In the process of work, the craftsmen use special wooden devices in the form of blades with a thin blade. But for self-fulfillment A regular narrow spatula is also suitable for the task.

stretching insulation;
insulation kit.

The first is optimal if the gaps are not wide, the second is suitable for deep and long gaps. When caulking, the tow fibers are distributed along the gap in an even thin layer, while driving it into the gap with a spatula. The work must be done slowly and carefully, trying to seal the insulation as efficiently as possible. Tow is driven in in layers until the gap is filled.

Laying in a set is carried out as follows: bunches or balls are formed from tow, corresponding to the size of the gap, and they are driven into it with a spatula and a hammer. Regardless of the chosen method of caulking, work begins from the bottom of the wall.

Video - How to caulk a house from a bar

Video - Caulking at home from a bar

The choice of material for external insulation of a house from a bar 150x150

The modern market offers many solutions for warming a wooden house. The choice largely depends on the climatic conditions of the region of residence. For southern latitudes, one insulation will be optimal, for northern latitudes, another. Therefore, when choosing a material, they are guided by its main characteristics:

coefficient of thermal conductivity;
compressive strength index;
frost resistance;
lifetime guaranteed by the manufacturer.

For external insulation of a house made of timber 150x150, the following heat-insulating materials are suitable:

fibrous (glass wool, mineral wool, stone wool, basalt wool);
sheet foam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
foamed polyethylene;
sprayed polyurethane foam;
windproof plates Izoplat.

Mineral wool and its analogues

Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, but has one significant drawback: hygroscopicity. Since wet insulation is not able to retain heat efficiently, the use of mineral wool in rolls or slabs requires vapor and waterproofing of the walls and foundation of the house. This significantly increases the cost of its external insulation.

When choosing fiber materials, the following points should be considered:

the level of air humidity in the region of residence;
cladding option external walls building.

The second requirement is due to the fact that the laying of mineral wool and its analogues requires wall cladding according to the ventilated facade technology. So save on finishing works will not work. If there is any doubt that the mineral wool under the cladding will remain dry, it is better not to use this material.

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

There are many myths about this heater. One of them convinces that polystyrene releases styrene, which is harmful to humans, into the environment. All these claims have long been debunked by laboratory studies. The safety of foam plastic is confirmed by the sanitary and epidemiological conclusion 63.01.06.224.P.001216.04.03 dated April 7, 2003, Conclusion 01-188 dated 04.25.00 Research Institute of Hygiene and Health Protection of Children and Adolescents of the Russian Academy of Medical Sciences, Conclusion No. 03 / PM8 of the Moscow Research Institute of Hygiene named after . F.F. Erisman. Therefore, this insulation can be fearlessly used not only for external, but also for internal insulation.

When choosing foam, it is important to pay attention to its density. The higher it is, the lower its thermal conductivity. There is an opinion that the density of the foam corresponds to the digital indicator of its brand. But this is only partly correct. For example, the density of C-25 foam varies between 15.1-25 kg/m3. In choosing a material, a table of its characteristics will provide significant assistance.

For external insulation of a house from a bar 150x150, you can use foam of any brand. Manufacturers offer canvases of different thicknesses: 5 cm and 10 cm. When choosing a material, you need to take into account that for facade insulation it is better to buy PSB-S-35 foam plastic with a thickness of 5 cm than PSB-S-25 foam plastic with a thickness of 10 cm. The cost of these materials almost the same, but the thermal insulation effect will be more significant.

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)

EPPS has almost the same chemical composition, as foam, but has a lower thermal conductivity, higher bending strength, lower water absorption. A significant difference in characteristics is due to the methods of production of these materials.

EPPS is ideal for external insulation of a house made of timber 150x150. The only disadvantage of this material is its relatively high price. A 2 cm thick extruded polystyrene slab is comparable in thermal conductivity to a 3 cm thick foam sheet and a 4 cm thick mineral wool layer.

XPS can be glued to the walls of the building, but you need to choose the right glue. For materials based on styrene (EPS and foam), the following compounds cannot be used:

based on acetone and any solvents;
petroleum toluene;
based on water;
ethyl acetate.

Styrofoam insulation prices

Styrofoam insulation

This material has long proved in practice its suitability for thermal insulation.

Foamed polyethylene has a lot of advantages. Among them:

low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
elasticity;
a light weight;
low cost.

When choosing this material, you should know that it is the spirit of the types: PVD (high pressure) and HDPE ( low pressure). Foamed polyethylene products come with one-sided and two-sided foiling.

The following are the most popular:

Foamed polyethylene materials are advantageous in that they do not require a vapor and waterproofing layer. This is due to their absolute non-hygroscopicity. Therefore, when sheathing the outer walls of a building with foamed polyethylene, you can save a lot.

Sprayed polyurethane foam

Sprayed polyurethane foam differs from the above materials not only in the way of laying.

It has many other benefits:

extremely low thermal conductivity: 0.023 - 0.03 W / m * K (this is significantly lower than that of mineral wool and polystyrene);
environmentally friendly;
does not require a vapor and waterproofing device;
there is no need for additional fastening of the heat insulator, as the foam adheres firmly to the wall when applied;
when applied, it forms a continuous layer, excluding the possibility of the appearance of cold bridges.

All this makes sprayed polyurethane foam the best material for external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber. The only drawback of this method is its high cost. Spraying PPU requires not only special equipment, but skills to work with it. Therefore, you will have to pay not only for the material, but also for the services of specialists.

Windproof boards Isoplat based on wood fiber

Scandinavian wind protection boards are made from softwood fibers and are 100% natural heat-insulating material. In their production, no chemical binders, no glue, no resins are used. At the same time, a 12 mm thick slab is equal in terms of thermal insulation to 44 mm of wood.

The main advantages of Izoplat windproof plates:

Tightness. Due to their elasticity, the plates fit snugly against the walls, and breaks in the windproof layer are excluded.
Thermal insulation. It will not shrink during the entire service life and guarantees reliable insulation of the house during the entire service life. Coefficient. thermal conductivity of the material λ10 ≤ 0.045 W/mK
Vapor permeability. The plate is a "breathable" material, due to which excess moisture leaves the house and mold and fungus do not form in the walls.
Resistant to atmospheric moisture. The plate is impregnated with paraffin, due to which no precipitation, dampness and temperature changes are terrible for it.
Soundproofing. A windproof slab of even minimal thickness will provide sound insulation of about -23 dB.
simple and quick installation. The size of the plates is 2700x1200x12 mm, the weight is only 9 kg.
Guaranteed service life of more than 50 years. Actual use over 70 years.
Eco-friendly and 100% natural like wood itself.

Isoplast prices

Isoplast

Rules for external insulation of a wooden house

The walls of a wooden house are built of a very hygroscopic material. The tree is able to absorb moisture and deform at the same time. Although construction timber has a low humidity coefficient, impact environment inevitably changes this figure. Therefore, in wooden houses, deformation of the walls can be observed. It is insignificant, but inevitably affects the geometric shape of window and door openings.

When externally insulating a house from a 150x150 timber, it must be taken into account that a ventilation gap is required through which moisture will exit the wood. Thus, no damage will be done to the walls. Above the insulation, laid on the outside of the building, it is necessary to build a facing layer. That's why best technology insulation of a house from a bar - a device for a ventilated facade.

Its schematic diagram includes the installation of several layers of materials (the direction from the wall to the street):

wall;
crate (frame);
heat insulator;
vapor barrier membrane;
ventilation gap;
facing material.

Regardless of which insulation will be used, it is necessary to observe the sequence of laying materials and do not forget that there must be a gap of at least 1 cm wide between the heat insulator and the cladding.

Installation of a ventilated facade, installation of lathing and insulation

Step 1: Mounting the spacers

For the installation of spacers, use bars with a section of 20/20 mm or edged board 20-25 mm thick. For fixing wood, nails or wood screws are used. The optimal step is 60-80 cm.

Step 2: Installation of the vapor barrier membrane

The vapor barrier film is sold in rolls. The laying of the canvases starts from the bottom of the wall and gradually moves up. The vapor barrier is fixed with a construction stapler with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Prices for material for vapor barrier

Vapor barrier material

Step 3: framing installation

The same material is used as in the construction of the 1st tier: bars or boards, but the thickness of the lumber should be different: 5-10 cm and correspond to the thickness of the selected insulation. Boards (bars) are not fixed horizontally, but vertically. It is important to consider that the distance between the racks of the crate must correspond to the width of the insulation.

Step 4: laying the heat insulator

In the space between the racks of the 2nd tier of the crate, mineral wool sheets or foam sheets are laid. They are attached to the wall of the house with plastic dowels with a wide dish-shaped hat.

Step 5: Installing the Windproof Membrane

The windproof film is laid in the same way as the vapor barrier. It is attached to the crate with the help of counter-rails.

Step 6: installation of facing material

As a finishing material can be used:

metal or vinyl siding;
front cement-shaving panels;
lining.

Prices for facade panels

facade panels

High-quality external insulation of a house made of timber 150x150 will provide a comfortable microclimate in residential premises and will reduce the cost of heating the building.

Video - How to insulate a house from a bar outside

Video - Warming the house with mineral wool

Features of the Russian climate - strong wind, heat and frost, rain - one way or another, require home insulation. Consider how to insulate a house from a bar in accordance with the regulations and standards for heat saving.

In general, insulation should be started even during the manufacture of a log house, laying an interventional sealant after each row of logs. Wood is a natural material that dries and shrinks over time. And therefore, a year later, after the walls of the log house have dried and shrunk, repeated work on glazing and thermal insulation is carried out.

materials

As used only natural plant fibers, which are based on no artificial additives. They provide an environmentally friendly atmosphere, do not emit harmful substances And unpleasant odors well isolate sounds.

Seals from natural plant fibers caulk all the cracks, corners of the building.

Auxiliary materials

Experts do not recommend finishing the insulation of a log house with plaster finishing. The reason is that as a result, the natural ventilation of the wall from the outside deteriorates, which makes the tree more prone to rotting and strife. You need to prepare the following materials for work:

hydrobarrier;
bars for the frame with a width corresponding to the heat insulator;
the actual insulation itself - mineral wool, polystyrene, glass wool in rolls or slabs;
finishing - siding or lining.

It is possible to isolate the house from the inside or outside only after the completion of the natural shrinkage of the tree. It usually occurs within a year of operation.

Classification

From a bar it can be made with the following materials: swamp moss, jute, made from the shoots of this plant and resistant to decay; flax fiber tow and mezhventsovy felt. Expanded polystyrene products are best used last, since with prolonged use of the building, the layer may be destroyed and fumes with harmful phenolic compounds may appear.

Mezhventsovy felt is produced in three types: jute interventional - 90% jute, 10% - flax, linen felt (flax wool) from highly refined flax fiber and flax jute interventional sealant - half from flax fiber, half from jute fiber.

About interior decoration

Insulation for interior finishing of timber can be almost any. The most widely used are mineral wool materials produced by ROCKWOOL, URSA, ISOVER. It is believed that they have better sound insulation, low thermal conductivity, low hygroscopicity.

Properties of mineral wool

The fibers of the material are made from basalt, a particularly strong rock. The big pluses of mineral wool are the non-susceptibility to mold, fungi, insects, as well as the ability to withstand temperatures above 1000С.

In addition, mineral wool fibers have good vapor permeability, which allows vapors to evaporate rather than accumulate in the walls. An important quality of mineral wool is the absence of toxic substances in the composition.

The thickness of the plates of the applied insulation depends on the width of the walls of the house itself. For example, for a beam of 150 mm, it will be correct to use only 5 cm of mineral wool. Thinner plates are mounted in two continuous layers. The joints must be covered to enhance the heat-saving effect.

Types of mineral wool

Mineral wool URSA is a mixture of dolomite (mineral) with quartz sand. Its main advantages are high elasticity and flexibility (facilitate installation) and excellent thermal insulation characteristics (the thermal conductivity coefficient of such a heater is 0.032 W / mK).

For the walls of ventilated facades, Ursa FACADE material is used in the form of semi-rigid fiberglass boards, covered with high-density black fiberglass. Additionally, the plates are treated with water-repellent agents. Thanks to all these qualities, the need to install windproof films disappears.

ROCKWOOL mineral wool is made from basalt rocks impregnated with a hydrophobic mixture - a chaotic arrangement of mineral fibers provides high strength. Binders such material contains a minimum amount. ROCKWOOL is not subject to deformation during operation. It is produced in various forms - rolls, plates, mats of various thicknesses and areas, which also differ in the degree of rigidity.

ISOVER mineral wool is made on the basis of glass fiber and has excellent heat retention, shape stability and durability. The upper surface of such plates is covered with fiberglass, therefore they do not require the use of diffuse membranes. When carrying out two-layer insulation, such material acts as the top layer.

Preparation for use

The thickness of the insulation used depends on what wood and what technology the house is built from:

for chopped logs, at least 15 mm of insulator is laid;
for glued laminated timber, a layer of 5 to 10 mm is sufficient.

All work on sealing the walls must be carried out simultaneously along the entire crown in order to avoid warping the log house. All cracks must be sealed both inside and out. Before carrying out work, the log house is carefully inspected, all cracks are identified and caulked. Particular attention is paid to the processing of the corners of the log house. Just framing is clearly not enough.

Insulation from the inside

After sealing the walls, work is carried out on internal thermal insulation dwellings. They consist in laying a layer between the walls and the material for interior decoration. As the latter, gypsum fiber or drywall is often used. For internal insulation, insulation with a vapor barrier is used to prevent fumes from soaking it.

Warming a house from a bar from the inside has the following risks:

possible cracking of the tree and the formation of condensate;
log rotting;
reduction of the usable area of the premises and deterioration of the interior.

Outside insulation

The best option for insulating a wooden house would be to create a ventilated facade system with an air gap - the ascending currents themselves will remove unnecessary moisture. Such a system has high heat-shielding qualities and ensures the dryness of the walls.

It is necessary to pay attention to the sealing of windows and doors, the floor, the arrangement of interfloor ceilings and the attic. Floor insulation is carried out by laying a layer of waterproofing, a heat insulator, on top of which a layer of vapor barrier is placed.

Beginning of work

To begin with, the entire surface of the walls is well treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. After processing, gaps and cracks are eliminated at all joints and between the timber. The gaps are eliminated with mounting foam or seals, which are used when laying the log house. More often it is lnovatin, jute fiber or ribbon tow.

After sealing all the gaps, vertical carrier rails are stuffed onto the walls. The distance between them is left slightly smaller than the width of the future insulation material. This is done for an easier and tighter entry into the structure.

Laying

Sealant boards are laid between the carrier rails, starting from the underside of the wall. The plates are fixed with the help of anchor fasteners, while the joints are located close to each other and to the edges of the crate.

The second frame row of bars is attached in a horizontal direction. Mineral wool slabs are installed in the gaps between them. In this case, the upper plates must overlap the joints of the underlying layer. The second layer of heat insulator is also reinforced with anchors. In addition, the densely elastic structure of fiber boards itself contributes quite secure installation material between the battens.

A diffusion membrane is fixed on the surface of the insulation, permeable from the inside for steam and air, but absolutely closed from the outside for wind and external moisture. This layer will perfectly protect the insulator and the tree under it from adverse atmospheric phenomena.

Thermal insulation in regions with high humidity will be properly supplemented with a vapor barrier film. In this case, the vapor barrier is installed directly on the surface. wooden beams walls.

Ventilation layer and finish

The frame for the exterior finish must be fixed in such a way that an air gap remains between the finish layer and the heat insulator for ventilation of water vapor. After all, external moisture will inevitably condense on the surface of the insulation, which should be able to evaporate.

The outer facade trim is mounted on the frame. It can be lining, siding or panels made of polymers. You can finish the building with a block house - a polymer that imitates wood with its texture and pattern. It is important to prevent heat loss through other areas - the roof, floor, foundation, windows, doors.

Attic, doors and windows

The technology of warming the attic of a wooden house is as follows:

a vapor barrier layer is laid on the hemmed ceiling of the attic;
a heater is laid on top - mineral wool or polystyrene foam;
a layer of waterproofing is laid on the insulator and a crate of boards is mounted.

An ideal option for mounting doors and windows is the use of two-chamber metal-plastic or wooden double-glazed windows And double doors, as well as the mandatory presence of an entrance vestibule. Finally, before choosing a method of thermal insulation of a log house, it will be right to make sure that such a procedure is necessary in principle.

Timber houses, due to their environmental friendliness, are a popular option for private construction. But although they heat up quickly enough and have good thermal insulation properties, warming a log house is an urgent need for most households.

Installation of insulation on the walls of a house from a bar Source nd-prime.by

Differences between old and new technologies

Wooden construction in Rus' is a centuries-old tradition. For centuries, houses were built exclusively from log houses, from massive round and semicircular logs, the thickness of which was enough for good thermal insulation. Like today, the wood shrank over time, and gaps appeared between the logs. But earlier there were other ideas about the beauty of the facade, so ordinary tree moss was used to seal the cracks. He landed in the cracks between the logs and, over time, reliably filled the entire space between them.

IN modern construction economy issues come to the fore and force the use of timber, the thickness of which does not always meet the requirements of the developed standards. With insufficient cross-section, complete freezing occurs in winter, which means that the walls of the house are not able to retain heat. In addition, over time, the tree begins to dry out, which is why heat loss grows even more.

This is what a wall made of timber looks like after the wood has dried. Source bredmozga.ru

Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation in a timber house

Prudent owners are looking for ways to properly insulate a house from a bar in order to spend less money on heating in winter. This can be done in two main ways: from the inside and from the outside, and external insulation is preferable for a number of reasons.

Features of insulation from the inside

With internal insulation, the positive effect of saving heat is offset by the disadvantages:

Part of the usable area is inevitably lost due to the installation of the frame under the insulation.
The heat-insulating layer hides the "living" wooden walls and the rooms lose their unique charm.
Due to external winter cooling unprotected wooden wall dew point shifts internal insulation. Condensation occurs, mold appears, and it is difficult to control the condition of the wood.

Video description

What happens to the wall with improper insulation from the inside - in the video:

Wall insulation from the outside: advantages and disadvantages of the method

Most often, they resort to it, bearing in mind the obvious advantages compared to internal insulation:

The usable area of the internal space is saved;
Outside work do not change the daily routine of the family.
The facade of the house is reliably protected from sudden changes in temperature, which prolongs the life of the building.
Correct selection materials does not violate the microclimate of the rooms (the house "breathes").

You can decorate the facade to your liking or improve the appearance if the wood has darkened over time.
If the technology is followed, the wood will be additionally protected from damage.
Easy to control the work of the construction team.

The main disadvantage of external insulation is the need to conduct it in good weather- in cold and damp, it makes no sense to do this.

Three main methods of insulation

Any wall insulation involves attaching a layer of insulation to it and structures holding it. For this, several methods have been developed, and each of them has its own advantages and features of execution.

The principle of wall insulation is the creation of an additional protective "pie" Source lestorg32.ru

Hinged ventilated facade

By itself, this technology was developed as a decoration of the facade of the house, but since the installation procedure involves attaching a layer of mineral wool or similar material to the wall, this method can be considered as insulation.

Advantages of using ventilated facades:

Long service life (up to 50 years), excellent heat and sound insulation.
Ease of installation.
A wide choice of facing material of various flowers.
The dew point moves outward.

Mounting technology:

The lumber is pre-treated with compounds that prevent rotting and make the tree unattractive to insects.
Outside, a crate is attached to the house, on which a sheet of hydro and wind protection is stuffed. In the space between the slats of the crate, air circulates freely, due to which condensate or moisture that has appeared in another way will be removed from the insulation.
The crate is leveled with a plumb line.
Next, slats are stuffed onto the crate, the distance between which should correspond to the width of the heat insulator. Accordingly, the height of the rails is selected - for middle lane Russia is recommended to use insulation with a thickness of at least 70 mm.

A feature of the ventilated facade is that a gap is left between the insulation and the cladding Source builderclub.com

Insulation mats are laid between the slats, fixing with dowels.
Then, bars with a thickness of at least 5 cm are additionally stuffed onto the slats, so that there is a gap between the insulation and the cladding.
Facing (siding) is mounted.

Insulation under siding.

There are practically no fundamental differences from the previous technology - insulation is also used here and is also used outside decorative coating. But if the very name of the ventilated facade indicates the place of its use, then the whole house is covered with siding in any case.

The nuances of installation, taking into account the selected material:

The distance between the slats is set equal to the width of the mat if foam or extruded polystyrene foam is selected.
The distance between the slats is set 10–15 mm less than the width of the mat if mineral wool is used. This must be taken into account when calculating the amount of mineral wool.
According to the technology, cotton wool slabs are mounted at a distance; polymer plates are placed in cells, the joints are treated with mounting foam.
When using mineral wool, a waterproofing layer (diffuse membrane) is additionally mounted on top. It is not needed when using fiberglass or polystyrene.

Sheathing a log house with siding Source stroyfora.ru

Polyurethane foam spraying method

The principle of this technology is clear to anyone who has seen how they work with mounting foam. The difference here is that the amount of material needed to create a thermal insulation pad is much larger, so a spray gun using compressed air from a compressor is used to process polyurethane foam. Technology advantages:

Easy to use and high speed of application of the heat-insulating mixture on large surfaces.
Excellent adhesion (adhesion) with most building materials, long-term preservation of properties.
Environmentally friendly, fire resistant and anti-rot of the treated surface.

Insulation spraying can be carried out on any prepared surface Source keeninsulation.com

Types of heaters

The choice of insulation for outdoor work is quite wide and each of them has distinctive features to consider when choosing:

Mineral wool

It is produced in three varieties - stone (basalt), glass and slag. All have similar properties: fire-resistant, non-combustible, have chemical and biological resistance. Another advantage of the material is vapor permeability, environmental friendliness and high sound insulation.

By cons - cotton wool attracts rodents and does not dry out completely when wet.

It all depends on the skills of the builders, but usually it is easier to insulate a house from the outside with mineral wool using mats than rolls - the latter are not always convenient to deploy on vertical walls.

Laying mineral wool slabs in the crate Source remontik.org

Styrene boards (polystyrene, polyurethane foam)

Styrofoam is the cheapest option, lightweight and porous, with low hygroscopicity and excellent thermal insulation. The main disadvantages are combustibility (releases toxins during combustion), fragility and instability when exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

Video description

In this video, we will dwell on the insulation of the house with foam plastic. How safe is styrofoam?:

Extruded polystyrene foam

It has a special porous structure, tolerates low temperatures well and is unsuitable for microorganisms. The material is durable, easy to install (plates), does not absorb water. Disadvantages: highly flammable and at the same time releases harmful toxins.

Styrofoam and polystyrene are outwardly similar Source lineyka.net

Environmentally sprayable styrenes (ecowool and polyurethane foam)

Such heaters are expensive due to the method of application; required for large surfaces special installation and work experience. For small areas of complex shape (crevices near pipes, windows, between plates), polyurethane heaters in cylinders are offered.

"Warm" plaster

Light Granule Blend complex composition(glass, cement and hydrophobic additives), which does not ignite, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, protects the facade well from moisture and is easily repaired.

Subtleties of wall insulation from timber

Insulation of a log house outside under the siding cannot be started whenever you want - before that, the following conditions must be met:

Work on the installation of insulation can begin only after the complete shrinkage of the log house - often this period can be one and a half to two years.
It is forbidden to carry out work if the facade has not been treated with an antiseptic. Ignoring this rule will lead to the appearance of fungus and rot.
Before insulating a house from a bar from the outside, it is necessary to prepare the facade: close up not only wide cracks, but also small cracks. To do this, you can use putty, mounting foam or similar materials.
Good thermal insulation log house requires careful selection of material and calculation of its quantity. It should be taken into account how the heat-insulating material will be combined with the wood of the beam itself.
To choose a suitable insulation, it is necessary to take into account the size of the building, the quality of the log house and the seams.

Some heaters are installed without crates. Source obustroen.ru

Tools and materials for building thermal insulation

To insulate a house without being distracted by the search for tools and materials, builders need to prepare the following:

bubble or laser building level, you can still use a plumb line;
tape measure, square or ruler made of metal;
hammer, construction knife or hacksaw, screwdriver;
facade dowels, adhesive tape, chalk, polyurethane foam, antiseptic;
dry slats, insulation;
vapor and waterproofing film;
finishing material.
wood preservative sprayer

Treatment of a wooden wall with an antiseptic Source mybesedka.ru

On our website you can find a list of companies, home insulation services, among the houses presented at the exhibition Low-rise Country.

The general course of the installation of thermal insulation

All steps for warming a house from a bar by any of the methods described are always schematically the same and are performed in the following sequence:

for ventilation of the first layer of insulation, a crate of wooden planks is mounted on the wall;
a frame is stuffed onto the crate for fixing the insulating material
installation of a heater;
installation of additional battens and frame (if double insulation is used);
laying an additional layer of heat insulator;
fastening of a diffusion membrane, which will provide hydro and wind protection.
installation facade decoration(lining, siding) with an air gap.

Of course, in the end, insulation will hide beauty. natural material, but finishing the house with a block house can be a way out here.

In general, the insulation of a house made of timber according to the rules will make it possible to save on heating in the future. Despite the apparent simplicity of the whole process, there are a fairly large number of pitfalls that will definitely come out during installation. As a result, if there is no proper qualification, then it is better to order the work to professionals, because it is much more pleasant to control the construction site than to climb walls on your own.

Master of Architecture, graduated from the Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.

Wood, compared to brick or concrete, has higher thermal insulation characteristics, but in cold climates, even a wooden house needs insulation. With your own hands, you can fix the heat-insulating material outside and inside the room.

Insulation of a log house from the inside allows you to save a unique facade made of natural material.

Material selection

In order to correctly insulate the house, it is necessary to choose the right material for thermal insulation of the walls.

One of important factors is that the insulation is carried out indoors, so the requirements for environmental friendliness and safety are more stringent than with insulation from the outside.

The material should not contain toxic components and cause allergic reactions.

Internal and external timber insulation

As the main materials for insulation, you can use the following:

mineral wool;
ecowool;
Styrofoam;
insulation with extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
foam polyethylene.

When building a house from a bar with your own hands, special attention is paid to the origin of raw materials for building materials. If naturalness is important, the most the best option will be the application, which is made on the basis of cellulose and allows the walls to "breathe".

The most commonly used materials include expanded polystyrene (both extruded and foam plastic) and mineral basalt wool. When insulating with foam or polystyrene, it is important to remember that it deprives the walls of the ability to pass air.

For a normal microclimate in the room, you will have to think about additional ventilation.

When working with your own hands with mineral wool, you need to remember about additional measures ah protection. They are overalls that cover arms and legs, protective masks, goggles and gloves. The same applies to polyurethane foam.

Preliminary thermal insulation of a log house

Pre-insulated walls

Immediately after the erection, the wood shrinks, therefore, in a wooden house, the installation of partitions, interior decoration and insulation begin a year later, when the shrinkage is greatest.
Caulking is performed immediately after erection. For work, jute or linen insulation is used. It is correct to start caulking from the lower crown and carry out work around the entire perimeter of the walls. If you perform preliminary insulation with your own hands, first one wall, and then the other, the shrinkage of the house may occur unevenly. A year later, they begin the main warming.

Preparatory stage of work

Wall processing

If you plan to insulate the walls of an existing building, you need to make sure that they are in good condition and that there are no serious defects. It is necessary to check the condition around the entire perimeter of the building. In places where there are significant gaps due to the drying of wood, it is recommended to caulk the walls again.

After eliminating significant shortcomings, small irregularities are corrected and the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. If necessary, antiseptic treatment of the walls is applied.

Due to the low resistance of the material to fire, it is also necessary to treat the wood with special compounds that prevent fire - flame retardants.

In damp rooms, to prevent damage to the walls, they are additionally protected with waterproofing compounds.

When insulating with foam, you can not use additional waterproofing.

Warming technology

Do-it-yourself wall insulation work is carried out in the following order:

installation of a waterproofing layer;
installation of a wooden frame for fixing insulation;
heat-insulating material;
vapor barrier film;
finishing.

To improve the thermal insulation characteristics when insulating with foam, polystyrene or mineral wool, you can make a layer of "warm" plaster.

This highly effective 20 mm thick compound can replace 60 mm of ceramic brick or 40 mm of wood.

Waterproofing is rolled out along the perimeter of the walls and fixed with a construction stapler. Next, perform the installation of the crate under the insulation:

first align the corners of the house and make l-shaped racks;
then a crate is made of bars with a section of 50 by 50 mm.

The ball of the crate is assigned based on the width of the insulation. When insulating with foam or foam, the distance between the clean bars should be 60 cm. If mineral wool is used, the distance is reduced to 58 cm for a snug fit to the surface of the boards.

Installation of mineral wool

The material is fixed with the help of special anchors. They can be made from plastic or metal. To fix the mineral wool, it is recommended to use plate-shaped metal dowels, they will ensure a reliable connection of fairly heavy plates to a vertical surface, since they are characterized by increased strength.

Installation of expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrenes include foam and polystyrene. The fixing of these materials can be done with plastic dowels or with adhesives. It is important to choose the right glue for polystyrene foam. If it is planned to carry out work in wet rooms, it must be resistant to water. The adhesive composition for walls should not contain the following components:

solvents;
formaldehydes;
gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel;
aggressive resins.

If this requirement is not met, the adhesive composition can destroy the insulation and worsen the thermal protection of the building. It is best to choose those compounds on the packaging of which the possibility of using polystyrene foam is indicated.

Insulation of floors and roofs

Only 50% of the heat loss of the entire building occurs through the walls.
To ensure maximum thermal protection, you will also need to insulate the following structures:

floors on the ground;
overlapping of the first floor with a cold basement;
attic floor, if there is a cold attic;
roof in the presence of an attic floor.

Warming is carried out mainly with the same materials as the walls. In the case of mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam, manufacturers produce various products, intended for different types structures. This must be taken into account when choosing a material.

General home insulation

Important points when warming

It must be remembered that all the above heat insulators, except for mineral wool and ecowool, violate natural ventilation rooms, because they do not let air through. To ensure a normal microclimate, the following measures can be taken:

regular ventilation of the premises;
forced ventilation device.

Subject to all installation rules and taking additional measures to ensure normal temperature and humidity conditions in the premises, insulating a house from a bar will significantly save on heating and avoid frequent repairs.