How to assemble a carpentry workbench with your own hands. Making a homemade metalworking workbench Do-it-yourself plywood workbench

The general principle of the development of materials processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make parts for more precise ones using inaccurate equipment. And it all started with a workbench; prototypes of it are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but will also simplify, facilitate the work and improve its results.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make themselves workbenches on which, figuratively speaking, you can smash a tank with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repeating industrial prototypes in a design for your own use, designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years or more, is one of the typical mistakes in developing workbenches of your own design.

The second is neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “game” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations have a particularly strong effect on workbenches on a metal frame.

The third - repeat carpentry or metal workbenches; perhaps with some modifications to suit your needs. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home/amateur work of various types. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, conversely, universal, temporary, made from scrap materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper, in accordance with the range of needs and/or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a workbench general purpose or universal for special conditions use - in a cramped garage, for carpentry at a construction site from scrap rubbish, at home for small precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, which are sometimes quite expensive, you can find “universal” workbenches in the form of a carpenter’s bench with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vice on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for their installation, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” factory-made workbench

This is a wrong decision not only because the wooden tabletop is damaged by carpentry work. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. Wood soaked in them becomes much more flammable. Self-ignition is also possible; Remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oily rags in production. A different approach to designing the tabletop (board, lid) of a universal workbench is needed based on the type of work it is primarily used for - fine or coarse, see below.

Work bench

In the West, amateur/home workbenches with a stacked table top framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a “work bench” are shown in Fig. Under the fitter, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pad.

The bench workbench dampens vibrations well; It can be made from pine or spruce. But the design is complex, and it is inconvenient to work with long materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then garage and locksmith. Next we will try to combine them into universal workbench and let's see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

Workbench composition

A workbench of “our” type (conditionally, since it is impossible to accurately establish its origin) consists of:

A bench (in carpentry workbenches), or a bed (in metalworking benches), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
An apron on which the tool is hung. An apron is not a necessary accessory for a workbench; it can hang on the wall or be replaced with a cabinet, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the installation location and type of work within the range of 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

The lid and shelf are most often made at the same time, one-piece, and are simply called a lid, a workbench board or a tabletop. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on a base (bed, substrate) made of wood. In a metalworking workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet of 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and the ingress of technical fluids. In a carpentry workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, twists, etc. defects) solid fine-grained wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) also serves as a shelf; in a workbench for the home, for the sake of simplifying it, without sacrificing quality, it is possible to have 2 -layer construction, see below.

The traditional design of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the carpentry shelf. This comes from the master craftsmen of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed/bench that you should start developing your workbench, no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

Stationary wooden workbench has advantages over those on a steel frame not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood used is seasoned and impregnated, it will never bend. Secondly, wood perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops in a factory? And the overall strength and stability of the frame home workbench Coniferous industrial wood of ordinary quality will fully provide.

The design of a wooden workbench frame made from 120x40 boards is shown on the left in Fig. Permissible static load – 150 kgf; dynamic vertically downward for 1 s – 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on 6x70 self-tapping screws in a zigzag (snake) pattern with a distance from the edge of 30 mm and a pitch of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; the snakes on both sides of the package are made in mirror image. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel angles on self-tapping screws; the edge ones - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the tenons of the posts and, on the outside, with corners.

If timber 150x50 or (180...200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in Fig. The load-bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from timber 150x150, 150x75 and (180...200)x60 you can build a frame capable of bearing 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: Any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Under the joinery, a box-shaped lid is placed on it (see below), and under the fitter, a tray from a 60x60x4 angle with welded 4-mm strips above the intermediate beams is placed. A wooden cushion is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

All wood workbench, no need for welding work to make it, you can do it according to the following pattern. rice. The “trick” here is the tabletop, glued together from 75x50 lumber and fastened with ties. If the timber is oak, then permissible load– 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts – timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and welding is available. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in Fig. Materials – corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Boxes are made of galvanized steel. Disadvantage - it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs; the structure will lose its ability to bear dynamic loads.

For a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench according to the diagram at the top right, made of corrugated pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3, is suitable. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120...150)x40.

Shelf – steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x(30...35) self-tapping screws, a pair at each edge of each board, and along the outer boards - in increments of (60...70) mm. Only in this design will the workbench show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: the lid is turned over under the joinery wooden side up or adjusted as described below. A bench vise is mounted on a wooden pad, but is not secured with a clamp. A collet anchor for an M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice pad from below, and a through hole is drilled in the cover for it. A 60x2 washer is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vices.

For carpentry

The cover of a carpenter's workbench, unlike a metalworker's one, is tightly attached to the bench and is box-shaped for overall rigidity. The best option fastenings for a non-dismountable workbench - steel angles and self-tapping screws. The underbench can also be a steel frame from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench works is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it on pos. B. The bench board (in this case it is a separate device) is used to work with long pieces. The support in its groove is made from a wedged piece of board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and secure it into the sockets with bolts with conical heads. The traditional design of a carpentry bench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

It is possible to reduce the cost of the carpentry workbench cover by making it 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for the shelf. They lay it by laying the boards with “humps” of annual layers, alternately up and down, to avoid warping. The shelf flooring is first glued together with PVA or carpentry glue, tightly compressed with a clamp or wrapped with a cord; put on the pillow using the same glue. The lid skirt is assembled separately using glue and through tenons (inset in pos. B) and attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Carpentry vice

Solid wood carpenter's vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some comments are needed here.

First, you need to place 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the cushion (wood 4x4x1 cm). Secondly, if the nut is not custom-made or purchased, then at least temporarily acquire a set of taps for the thread you are using. In this case, do not try to use a screw that is too thick for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is quite enough.

The nut of a homemade clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to recess it into the clamp pad, this way there is less chance that the nut will break off when clamped. But welding will cause the thread to go ugly; you can’t get rid of it with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be passed with taps according to the complete pattern, as when cutting: first tap - second - third (if included in the kit).

Note: The nut welded to the base must be allowed to rest for 2 hours before passing the thread so that the residual deformations “settle down.”

Vise and joinery for mechanics

The vice on a metalworking bench is installed in the corner (see inset in the figure) so that as much of the dynamic loads as possible during metal processing fall vertically on the corner post. Location cross beams and intermediate vertical racks It is advisable to make a workbench with a stationary vice slightly asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with the vice. The vice is also installed starting from the corner:

A collet anchor is driven into a wooden corner post under an installation bolt, and a tall nut or threaded bushing is welded into a metal one (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
If the fastening unit is welded, the threads are threaded with taps, as in a homemade nut in a carpentry vice, see above;
Place the vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark the holes for fastening points 2, 3 and 4;
The vice is removed and drilled through holes 2, 3 and 4;
Place a vice on bolts 1, 2 and 3;
For fastening to bolt 4, place a jib U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to secure the jib, but it must rest from the bottom against the upper frame (frame) of the bed, but not against the table top!
Finally attach the vice to bolt 4.

Note: Stationary power tools are also secured in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the lower surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs from plastic bottles, they endure a tight fit many times.

Workbench for garage

It is impossible to make a workbench in a garage with an optimal width for the ergonomics of the workspace - the dimensions of a standard box of 4x7 m with a car parked in it do not allow it. Long ago, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined to be 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and it is more or less possible to work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor removed for rebuilding) turns out to be unstable, so it is attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall workbench“rings back” stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

A diagram of the structure of one section of a garage workbench is shown in Fig. This design uses an ingenious method of additional vibration damping: cells of the lid frames and the bottom shelf of the edge farthest from the corner different sizes. The installation accuracy of the crossbars is +/– 1 cm. For the same purpose, the lid and bottom shelf are made of L Chipboard thickness 32 mm and covered with linoleum instead of steel. Its durability is sufficient for garage work; can be easily replaced.

Fastening to walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Recess into a stone wall is 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the self-tapping screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already wall-mounted, and the wall-mounted one is on the left in Fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood is 10-12 mm. Opening for the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling machine” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the shavings fall directly onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench cabinet with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; it will fit in the house for fine workmanship(electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on cardboard. To fold, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, perhaps a folding workbench box would be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, model making, watchmaking, artistic sawing from plywood, etc. For small, delicate work, a universal workbench is suitable, drawings of which and its accessories are given in Fig. The durability of the working surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the tabletop is covered with linoleum. The bench vise for this workbench needs to be small, with a screw clamp fastening.

More about plywood

In general, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because... she calls back well. If the pillow is board mechanic's workbench After all, it is made of plywood, then to its underside you need to glue a frame (frame) also made of plywood on PVA, see fig. Then it is advisable to first cover the upper (working side) with linoleum without a lining, and then lay the steel on it.

The younger shift

Another case when making a workbench board from plywood is justified is a student workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not beat him too much in vain, but work carefully. For the same purpose, masters of the past deliberately gave their students bad instruments.

Workbenches for the dacha

When country house or other lung wooden structure It’s still just under construction, there’s no time for bench-widths, you need at least something on which you can carry out simple carpentry work. For such a case, you can whip up a carpentry workbench for a summer house from scrap materials, on the left in Fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we make good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on arranging the dacha, a mini-workbench will be useful, on the right in Fig. At minimum consumption material and extremely simple design, it is sufficient for ordinary carpentry work and is stable in all respects, because the middle of the bench board is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will be foldable and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed along with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a dacha inhabited permanently or all summer, with a craftsman owner, by the way, you will need a more complex but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

A good workbench in the garage allows you to make different kinds metal and wood work in a short period of time. Various tools and small parts. In simple terms, it is a special table on which you can do turning and metalwork.

In addition to the tabletop, there may be multi-layer structures of shelves and hanging containers for storing nails, screws and nuts.

Making a universal workbench is quite simple. The main thing in this matter is to prepare a project and detailed drawings of the future product. During the creation process, it is necessary to observe the order of each action.

Self-manufacturing of such a structure will save a decent amount. Besides, individual project helps you make a design based on the parameters of your room.

Types of workbench

There are several types of workbench. Each of them has some characteristics. In turn, they are divided into:

Locksmith. It is intended for metal work. The tabletop of this product is made of a high-strength metal alloy. This is necessary for safety. While working on iron, sparks may be present.

In addition, the use of lubricants may leave marks on wooden surface. Iron base It does not require special care.

Carpentry. Its surface is made of solid wood. A carpenter's workbench is used for woodworking. These products do not have high strength and versatility, unlike metalwork.

The universal table has a metal and wooden tabletop in its design. The drawing of the workbench shows the structure of the carpentry work area.

What is included in the design of the workbench?

If the product is made independently, then it is important to think through every little detail. Additional shelves and spacious hanging containers will help you use this product efficiently. The standard model contains many drawers for storing large tools.

A homemade table can have both metal and wooden system storage An additional metal shield allows you to store small items here. hanging tool. Now the hacksaws and hammers will be located in one place.

How to make a workbench with your own hands?

We present to your attention detailed instructions how to make a workbench. Manufacturing carpenter's table takes place in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare all the tools and materials.

For this you will need:

hacksaw;
a screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers of different diameters;
carpenter's square;
level;
bolts;
nuts;
self-tapping screws;
detailed drawing of the product;
wrench.

From the materials you need to prepare:

bars for support. The size of each element should be 110 x 110 mm. During the selection process, you need to pay attention Special attention condition of the wood. There should be no cracks or knots here;
plywood sheets 30 mm thick;
boards for the frame.

When all the necessary items are prepared, you can proceed to the work process. It includes the following steps:

The initial step will be to construct a lower frame in which the tools and metalworking machine. To do this, the boards are sawed off to the required level. Next, they are connected to each other using self-tapping screws. The end result should be a rectangular shape.

A spacer bar is installed in the middle. In the future it will reduce resistance finished product During the work process you will need a small wooden board.

The supporting legs of the table are fixed with bolts. To do this, through holes are made in the plane of the frame. For reliability, it is recommended to make 6 to 8 legs around the entire perimeter.

To give rigidity to the product, it is necessary to make a bottom shelf. At the bottom of each leg, 25 cm are marked. Next, long wooden planks are attached here. In the future, a chipboard panel will be fixed on their surface. It will act as a base.

When the main part of the frame is completed, begin installing the top tabletop. You will need a hacksaw here. She removes excess parts of the board.

Hardboard will help protect the surface of a wooden tabletop. This is a durable material that is designed for the work area.

You can increase the storage system using an additional metal shield, which is attached to the back of the carpentry table. IN support boards make through holes. After this, the metal base is secured with bolts. The photo of the do-it-yourself workbench shows the sequence of each action.

Photos of DIY workbenches

It's no secret that the well-equipped workplace- the key to successful performance of plumbing, electromechanical or installation work. The main item in a garage or workshop around which everything is arranged work zone, is a workbench. This desktop must have the necessary functionality, be durable and reliable. Buying a finished product in a retail chain can cost a pretty penny, so it’s better to make it yourself. This will make it possible not only to save money, but also to get a garage table in exact accordance with the requests for functionality and placement.

DIY workbench. How to do it?

Below we will tell you how to make a wooden or metal workbench with your own hands. The presented designs do not require the use of any scarce parts or the use of expensive equipment, and during the installation process you can get by with minimal carpentry and plumbing skills.

Making a workbench with your own hands (from wood)

Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands has a lot of advantages, which include the fact that you can arrange the locations of vices and other devices in advance, think about the number and location of drawers, etc.

Required tools and materials

For self-made workbench you need to prepare the following tools:

electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
electric drill and set of drills for wood and metal;
carpenter's square;
roulette;
bubble level;
set of wrenches.
When stocking up on materials, be sure to ensure that the wooden parts do not have cracks or knots. To get started, you will need:
bars for support legs 100x100 mm;
two plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm (OSB can be used). In this case, one sheet will go on the table top, and the other on the lower shelf.
boards 50x150 mm, from which the frame will be mounted;
bolts (it is best to use furniture bolts, with a square part that prevents them from rotating in wooden parts);
washers and nuts;
self-tapping screws

To facilitate assembly and avoid errors when cutting material, it is better to make drawings of the workbench and indicate on it the dimensions of each part.

DIY workbench drawings

DIY workbench. Step-by-step instruction

First of all, you need to make top frame underframe. To do this, boards of the required length are sawn off in accordance with the drawing.

Using self-tapping screws, long and short parts are fastened in such a way as to obtain a rectangular frame. After this, measure the distance to its middle along the long side, where a spacer bar is installed. The same 50x150 mm board is used, which is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws at both ends.

DIY wooden workbench. Photo

Support legs The workbench is made of 6 identical bars. To attach them to the upper frame, long bolts with nuts and washers are used. To install the support, a block is placed in the corner of the frame and two through holes are drilled through the leg and the side board. Then the connections are tightened using bolts and nuts.

To achieve the required structural rigidity, lower boards are installed. By the way, these same details will also serve as the basis bottom shelf. To do this, in full accordance with the workbench drawings, 4 wooden parts with a cross-section of 50x150 mm are sawn off.

To secure the bottom boards, measure 30 cm from the edge of each support. At this height, one part is attached to the three rear legs of the structure, and from the front, the board is attached between the middle and side supports on the side where it will be installed additional shelf.

Two short boards are mounted at the same height on the sides of the workbench.

Using an electric jigsaw or hacksaw, parts are cut from sheets of OSB or plywood for table tops. It is attached flush to the top of the desktop using self-tapping screws. To protect the surface of the workbench from damage, a layer of hardboard is laid on top of the plywood, which can be easily replaced with new material as it wears out. To install the bottom shelf, measure the distance from the middle to the outer legs. The material is cut to this size and cutouts are made in its corners using a jigsaw or hacksaw. support legs. Attaching the shield to the lower base is carried out in the same way as installing a table top.

To obtain stability of the frame structure, when attaching the supports and assembling the frame of the bench, be sure to use carpenter's square. After installing the workbench, bubble level check its horizontal position. If necessary, the level can be changed by placing small pieces thin plywood under the legs.

DIY workbench. Step-by-step instruction

After assembly is completed, the workbench is impregnated with a special protective composition, varnished or painted.

A small workbench for the home with your own hands

The design of the mechanic's workbench proposed below will greatly facilitate metalworking and installation work not only in a small garage, but also on the balcony, in the corner of a utility room, etc. With all the functionality and convenience of a full-size workbench, it won't take up much space and can hold a variety of tools and gadgets in its drawers.

Tabletop small workbench It is made from two sheets of plywood glued together with a thickness of at least 18 mm and has dimensions of 1500x600 mm. To strengthen the table cover, it is additionally thickened at the edges with two layers of plywood sheet, giving a thickness of 72 mm.

Considering that plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is not the cheapest material (the cost of one sheet is about 1000 rubles), you can save a little if you buy a full-size sheet with dimensions of 2440x1220 mm. Unfortunately, this material is not enough to make the reinforcing strip that is located around the perimeter of the lid, so you will have to additionally look for a small piece of plywood sheet. Otherwise, the design of the tabletop will have to be changed.

When starting to build a small carpentry workbench with your own hands, prepare the following tools and materials:

rule at least 2 m long;
Circular Saw;
carpenter's square;
serrated spatula with tooth size 2x2 or 3x3 mm. Can buy ready-made tool or make it yourself using a grinder;
screwdriver or set of screwdrivers;
spanners;
good wood glue, for example, “Moment Joiner”
plywood 18mm thick;
wooden beam 40x60 mm;
self-tapping screws;
bolts, nuts, washers.

In addition, to make a workbench yourself, you need to acquire good carpentry clamps, without which gluing plywood sheets will be problematic. If quality tool It is not possible to purchase; you can use inexpensive Chinese clamps, of which you will need double the amount.

The process of making a workbench with your own hands begins with covers, onto which a strip 1520 mm long is cut from a sheet of plywood 2440 mm long. By sawing this part, we obtain elements measuring 1520x610 mm to strengthen the sides of the lid. Then, as a rule, the plane of the plywood sheets is checked in order to orient them with their convex surface inward when gluing.

The next stage will require maximum concentration and accuracy - within a couple of minutes you need to evenly distribute wood glue on the surface of one sheet of plywood. If you feel that lack of experience will not give you the opportunity to cope with this work in such a short time, then use PVA furniture glue to join wooden parts. It has no time restrictions and can be applied with a simple paint brush. Having prepared clamps and boards in advance to distribute the load over the entire plane, lay the bottom sheet on three boards, and after applying the adhesive, cover it with the top plywood board.

Having installed pressure boards on top, tighten the structure with clamps, constantly monitoring the flatness using the rule. It will not be possible to press the place in the center of the tabletop with a clamp, so it is left without load.

When gluing a board from several sheets of plywood, you can do without clamps if you place the structure on a flat surface and press it evenly over the entire plane with some kind of weight. After the glue has dried, the clamps or weights are removed and the next stage of making a workbench with your own hands begins.

So that the tabletop has a strict geometric shape when cutting it parquet flooring you have to be very careful. The rule can be applied as a guide bar for guiding a saw. When cutting the tabletop to dimensions of 1500x600 mm, maintain 90° angles using a carpenter's square or using the factory angles left over from cutting plywood as a template. Distribute the remaining scraps of plywood board into strips 150 mm wide. They will be needed to reinforce the perimeter of the tabletop, so glue them along the entire edge of the tabletop in two layers. In this case, the upper strips should overlap the joints of the lower sections of plywood.

For the manufacture of underframes timber with a cross section of 40x60 mm is used. In this case, the drawers and legs are made from solid lumber, and the supports are glued together from two pieces and one whole beam. The height of the workbench is chosen taking into account your height, since there should be no inconvenience or discomfort when using it. In our case, the height of the workbench from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop is 900 mm.

Next, glue the legs and assemble two frames. In this case, it is important to maintain the perpendicularity of the connections, since if they deviate from right angle the geometry of the structure will be disrupted. It will be easier to achieve this condition if, even at the trimming stage, the angles of all parts are strictly 90°. In our workbench, the frame width is 900 mm, and the height of the support legs is 830 mm. The gap from the floor to the bottom rung should be 150 mm.

After the glue has dried, the frames are mounted on the tabletop and secured with clamps. Then the legs are set strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the bottom surface of the plywood panel and another set of legs and drawers are cut out. To fasten the structure to the tabletop, use 8x120 mm self-tapping screws.

The stability of the workbench can be increased if the legs and drawers are additionally fastened with the same screws. Choosing a recess for the head of the hardware feather drill, provide aesthetics to the joints.

The workbench is almost ready. If desired, you can make a box for storing tools in its underframe.

DIY metal workbench for the garage

A workbench made of steel has the necessary strength and reliability required when working with metal products. This desktop can add functionality to any garage or workshop.

Materials and tools

To start making a workbench for your garage with your own hands, you should acquire the following plumbing tools:

angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
welding machine;
building level;
electric jigsaw;
drill with a set of drills;
screwdriver;
measuring tool.

DIY metal workbench drawings

Some materials needed for a workbench can be found in the garage, and the missing parts can be purchased on the construction market. You will need:

steel corners 50x50x4 and 40x40x2;
profile pipe 60x40x2;
steel strip 40x4 mm;
steel sheets 2200x750x2 mm;
boards 50 mm thick;
15mm plywood and drawer guides;
metal screws and bolts.

In addition, prepare paint and rust converter to make the product look aesthetically pleasing and protect the metal from moisture.

Step-by-step instructions for making a metal workbench

Cutting the material. A profile pipe is cut onto the frame. Steel angle is used to strengthen the structure and edging the tabletop. The metal strip is needed as guide elements for the side panels and for making table drawer brackets.

Frame welding. A rectangular tabletop frame is mounted from pipes 2200 and 750 mm long, connected in pairs. At the same time, it is taken into account that on top of the frame it will be necessary to weld the corners into which the boards of the working surface are laid. To strengthen the frame, sections are welded every 400 mm steel pipes as stiffeners.

How to make a workbench with your own hands from metal. Photo

At the edges of the table, support legs 900 mm long are mounted by welding, which are reinforced at the bottom with jumpers from a corner or profile pipe.

The frames of the workbench drawers are welded to the legs on both sides.

Corners for edging are installed on the tabletop frame, and then secured with a welding joint.

From a corner 2200 mm long and 4 corners 950 m long, a sheathing of a power vertical panel for tools is arranged.

The finished frame is strengthened brackets made of steel bars, which are welded to its sides. To strengthen you will need 24 elements. Additionally, it is necessary to drill holes in each strip for mounting the side and rear plywood walls.

Plywood is cut into parts to make boxes, after which they are assembled using self-tapping screws. The number of drawers and their location depends on the specific need and personal preferences of the owner.

After assembling the drawers, metal strips with holes for attaching the slides are welded to the sides of the frame.

All welds and sharp corners pass with a grinder with a grinding wheel installed, and rusty areas of rolled metal are cleaned with a metal brush attachment.

The metal frame is treated with an anti-corrosion compound and painted with weather-resistant paint.

The boards are cut to the length of the tabletop and placed in a frame made from a corner. To prevent rotting and damage to wood by insects, the boards are treated antiseptic composition.

The lumber is laid in the prepared bed, leaving 2-3 mm gaps between the wood and the metal to allow the wood to expand when swelling. After this, the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws.

The top steel sheet is treated on both sides with a rust converter, and after drying it is attached to wooden tabletop self-tapping screws.

The table drawers are painted and installed on the guides, and the side and back plywood trim is attached.

After the workbench is made, a vice and other necessary equipment are installed, and hooks are attached to place the tool.

What is a workbench

A workbench is a table designed for work related to the manufacture and installation of products made of wood, metal and other materials. Workbenches are often additionally equipped with equipment for fastening workpieces, drawers and shelves for storing tools and accessories. Depending on the intended purpose, there are carpentry and metalworking workbenches for working with wood and metal, respectively. Work tables for workshops and garages can be single or multi-seat. Workbenches designed for one workplace have a width of up to 0.8 m and a length of up to 1.5 m. The dimensions of multi-person benches increase according to the number of people working at them. The distance of the working surface from the floor is usually 0.8 - 0.9 m, however, there are also designs with adjustable height. Workbenches are most often made of metal or wood, and their tabletops are covered with sheets of plywood, hardboard, galvanized sheet, boards and other materials.

This woodworking bench has a sturdy frame, a durable work surface and plenty of storage compartments. convenient storage tools and devices. You will make the main structure with your own hands in two days, and you will add various useful additions gradually.

Tools for work

To process solid wood and sheet materials you will need the following tools:

Hacksaw.
Electric planer.
Circular saw.
Grinder machine.
Drill and drill bits.
Clamps.
Screwdriver.
Pencil.
Square.
Roulette.
Brush.

Carpentry workbench frame

Take even pine boards without large knots with a cross-section of 50x150 mm. Dry the raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. The carpentry workbench in question is designed for comfortable work masters with a height of 170–180 cm. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.

Table 1 - list of frame parts

Name	Finish dimensions, mm	Material	Quantity
Name		Material	Quantity
Leg detail
Lower spacer
Upper spacer
Cross leg
Cover cross member
Longitudinal leg
Longitudinal drawer
Bottom shelf
Table top spacer

All elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a 150 mm wide board at once.

Saw all the wooden pieces to length, with the exception of the spacers: it’s easier to cut the short ones already planed, and the long ones should be sawed off later “in place.”

Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade and divide the result in half. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure it is perpendicular saw blade. Unfold the boards exactly in the middle.

Plan and process parts sandpaper medium grit.

File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After cleaning the surfaces from dust, apply glue to the small leg and to the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts together with a clamp, wipe off the squeezed out glue and drill holes with a countersink drill.

Fasten the workpieces with 6.0x70 screws. Prepare the remaining legs of the woodworking bench frame.

Bevel the bottom ends to reduce the likelihood of the wood splitting when the workbench moves.

Prepare the joints connecting the legs with the longitudinal legs for gluing. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place the frame halves and longitudinal drawers on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.

File the parts and secure them with glue and screws.

Assemble the top frame of the woodworking bench on a flat surface. Fasten the bars with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling guide holes for them.

Collect bottom trim workbench, I use clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.

Replace the top frame and level the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.

Cut from sheet material 16 mm thick bottom shelf and secure it to the bars

Workbench table top for carpentry work

Use sheets of MDF, chipboard or plywood 16–20 mm thick for the workbench cover. Glue the slabs in two layers and get a tabletop 32–40 mm thick.

Drawing and arrangement of the workbench cover: 1 – edge strips (birch, maple); 2 – working surface (hard fiberboard); 3 – load-bearing board (chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For the countertop, you can take sheets of chipboard left over from unnecessary furniture. For example, the walls of a wardrobe will do. Take them as a base and add small pieces so that the carpentry workbench lid measures 670x1940 mm.

Place narrow slabs closer to back wall and to the center of the workbench. Place large sheets in top layer countertops. Glue the cut pieces together.

Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Trim edges manually circular saw at a distance of 20 mm from the edge.

Align the tabletop with the frame and secure with screws.

Sharpen slats for edge trims. Saw off the 45° bevels and cut the planks to length. Place a piece of fiberboard on the lid of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and secure it all with clamps.

This makes it easier to attach the pads. Align the ends with the edges of the tabletop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench lid. Holding the bar with one hand, drill pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.

Move the device to the other side and install the remaining pads. Sand the slats with a sander.

Drill a hole in the corner of the slab so that the fiberboard can be easily pushed out of its recess when replacing it.

Clean the surfaces from dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with stain. Place the fiberboard in the recess of the lid. If you are using pieces of material, secure them with double-sided tape. Place a carpenter's vice on your workbench.

Boxes for storing tools in a carpentry table

When filling the space under the carpenter's workbench lid, use modular principle. It’s easier to make individual blocks and more convenient to change them later when you need space for a new tool. There will be a certain waste of material, but the weight of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with power tools.

Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 – box full extension; 2 – spacious plywood box; 3 – chipboard container; 4 – wide box; 5 – compartment for portable tool box; 6 – space for cases and workpieces.

Use boxes from old furniture

Select suitable sized junk boxes desk or chest of drawers.

Sign wooden elements and carefully separate them. Clean the glue from the spikes and eyes.

Trim the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the original bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on a circular saw.

Assemble the box “dry”, adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting angles to accurately assemble right angles.

Once the glue has dried, sand the corners and sides of the box, securing it in place for ease of work.

Prepare guide strips and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Calculation of a block for three drawers

File the bottom, top and side panels. Screw the guide rails with screws.

Assemble the panels into a module and test the movement of the drawers. Place the block inside the workbench with supports underneath it.

Drill pilot holes, countersink and tighten the screws. Attach the chipboard to the top beams and to the legs of the workbench.

Install front covers on the drawers. Having marked the location of the housing, secure it with one screw. Insert the drawer into place and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the remaining screws.

Secure the remaining linings - the module with wide drawers is ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable box

The middle module is made to the full height of the bench to enhance the rigidity of the carpentry workbench. For the body, take 16 mm thick chipboard and cut out two sides, a bottom and a lid.

Middle module housing: 1 – frame diagram; 2 – side wall; 3 – lower and upper panels.

Attach the guide strips to the sides, assemble the frame with screws and install it close to the right block.

Prepare the parts for the drawer.

Drawings of box elements: 1 – long wall; 2 – short wall; 3 – bottom; 4 – front pad; 5 – rail.

Use a circular saw to select grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular disk. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts through. Slide longitudinal stop saw blade to 2 mm and make a test cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Run the rest of the workpieces.

Assemble the module and install the rails underneath that protect chipboard edges from chipping and providing a smoother ride.

Secure the front panel with screws and place the drawer in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The design of the housings of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The retractable container placed on roller guides is made taking into account the installation gap, so its width will be smaller internal size housings by 26 mm (for common guides with a thickness of 12 mm).

Module structure and box parts: 1 – assembly diagram; 2 – back and front walls; 3 – front panel; 4 – bottom; 5 – side walls.

Before assembling the housing, attach the limiting bars to the sides. wooden slats and metal guides.

Installation diagram of guides on the walls of the housing.

Secure the finished module under the workbench lid.

To install the drawer rails, unclip the latches and pull out the small rails.

Fasten the parts to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide yourself based on the specific design and the 10 mm gap between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.

Pull out the middle rails all the way.

Insert both rails at the same time, holding the middle rails with your fingers. If the drawer is too tight, take it out and try again.

Replace the front trim.

How to make a carpentry workbench drawer from plywood

Saw the box body blanks from 10mm plywood, and for the bottom take a 5mm thick sheet.

Scheme of cutting parts for two plywood boxes: 1 – front panel; 2 – rear liner; 3 – side wall; 4 – front liner.

Sand the workpieces with a grinder.

Make grooves for the plywood bottom in the side walls, back and front liner. Remove burrs with sandpaper.

Glue and screw together the parts of the front and back walls.

Apply glue to the joints and into the groove.

Assemble the structure using angles and clamps.

Fasten the parts with screws, drilling guide holes.

Assemble the second plywood box with your own hands.

Install a panel on the back wall of the carpentry workbench designed to increase the rigidity of the structure and to accommodate hand tools.

Cover the drawers and cut ends of the particle boards with finishing compound.

Connect power to your homemade workbench and start filling the containers with tools.

Design and purpose of the workbench

A carpentry workbench is a work table for manual and mechanical processing. wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: making wooden parts, assembling structures, coating them with finishing compounds. Traditional carpenter's table designed for working with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. To process longer workpieces, use a carpenter's workbench.

A table for carpentry work consists of a bench board (cover) and a bench (supporting frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.

There are holes in the table top and the wooden jaws of the vice. They are designed for installing clamps and stops of various sections and heights.

Having placed the stops in required configuration, the part is placed between them and pressed with the screw mechanism of the vice. This way the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on thickness wooden part, use a stop of appropriate height that will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal workbench height?

The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. Optimal height The table is selected based on the height of the master. If, standing at the workbench, your palms rest freely on its lid, then the size has been selected correctly. At such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are best to make the structure from?

A carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to large loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are ensured not only by the features of the fastening units, but also the type of materials used.

Wood is traditionally used to make the base. coniferous species. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the bench board must be dry (humidity about 12%) without knots and other defects.

About making a workbench cover

Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to purchase a ready-made glued board, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the funds saved.

When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the cover: drilling, chiselling, etc., work surface it is better to cover the workbench with thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately together with the workbench.

Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls

The sidewall design consists of two legs (B), drawers and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through-glued tenon.

The figured cutouts of the drawers and supports (detail A) are cut out on band saw followed by sanding the edges.

In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, markings are made on the legs for the tenons of the prongs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.

On the outside of the legs, a conical recess is machined for the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.

Sawing out tenons and eyes

Spikes and eyes are made on sawing machine or manually, guided by the basic principles of creating tenon joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a perfect fit of the connection. The workpieces must be prepared smooth surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.

Side panel assembly

Parts A and B are glued together to form a finished joint. After drying, any excess glue that appears is carefully cleaned off with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is sanded.

In the center of the glued drawer, drill a 19x38 mm hole for a dowel (L) to fix the workbench cover.

Manufacturing of pedestals and underbench shelves

According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for the legs (part C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As with the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw.

The connection of the legs with the sidewall is made detachable using a bolt tie with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and depth 32 mm is milled on the inside of the legs. A 14X95 mm hole is drilled at the ends of the legs. At this stage it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90°.

The support strips (parts D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 22 mm from the upper edges of the supports.

According to the dimensions specified in the “General detailing” drawing, the planks of the underbench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersunk at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.

Installation of the bench cover

On the back side of the bench board, blind holes d19 mm and depth 32 mm are drilled for dowels (L).

Using a drill bit d19 mm, through holes are made on the cover for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the lid. All holes are chamfered. The stops should fit easily into the sockets and not have any play.

Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure clean holes at a perfectly right angle. It won’t be difficult to make such a guide yourself, if you have a piece of timber on hand.

Installation of a bench vise

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to buy a carpenter's vice at finished form. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, you will get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.

Manufacturers of bench vices try to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will look at the installation diagram standard designs. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of a non-standard bench vise.

Vise jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are cut from hardwood. After this, holes are drilled for the guide rods, lead screw, sockets for bench stops and holes for mounting screws.