For a thrifty owner, a work desk is an indispensable attribute of a garage, barn or an extension to the house. Of course, you can purchase a carpentry workbench. But if this product famous brand, then it is quite expensive. In addition, it is not known whether it will fully meet all the needs of the master. Cheap tables won’t last long – that’s for sure.
The most rational solution, if you really want to have the most convenient and versatile carpentry workbench, is to make it yourself. Having dealt with optimal sizes, drawings, features of the selection of materials and a number of other issues, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult about this for any man.
Selecting a workbench project
This is where you need to start. Any desktop is made for specific purposes and premises. Carpentry workbench is a generalized name. One is needed only for woodworking personal plot(for example, during construction or overhaul), the other is assembled for everyday work with small parts, and from different materials. Depending on the specifics of use and installation location, its design features, dimensions, and drawing are determined.
Option A – portable (mobile) workbench.
Option B is essentially an intermediate (prefabricated) structure (with bolted connections).
For household purposes home handyman The table according to option A is best suited. It is called mobile purely conditionally, only because of its relatively low weight. If a specific place is allocated for it in a barn or garage, nothing prevents the owner from fixing its legs to the floor (fill it with concrete, “fasten” it with large screws, and so on). With your own hands - whatever you want.
Drawing up a drawing of a carpentry workbench
If the workbench is assembled for domestic use, then there are recommended linear parameters (in cm) that you can focus on. But this is not an axiom, so the master is free to change anything at his own discretion.
- Length – at least 180.
- Width work surface– 90±10.
- Workbench height – 80±10 (taking into account the thickness of the table top). When deciding on this parameter, you need to focus on your own growth. It is unlikely that working with wood will be effective and bring satisfaction if you have to constantly stoop or, on the contrary, rise “on tiptoe”.
What to consider:
- The number and type of compartments in the table cabinet. These can be open boxes, drawers or drawers with doors, or shelves. Another thing is whether the master needs them?
- To make it more convenient to work with samples of different lengths, it is worth drilling several “sockets” in the tabletop to install limiters.
- To secure workpieces, it is advisable to have a couple of clamping devices (clamps or screw vices) on the workbench. The optimal width of their “sponges” is 170±5 mm.
- Desk location. Depending on the level of illumination, the number of lamps mounted on the workbench (and above it) is determined. But at least a couple of pieces, on the edges of the tabletop, are necessary for “spot” lighting.
If the owner is left-handed, then this should be taken into account. All standard drawings posted on the Internet are designed for craftsmen whose “working” hand is their right. Consequently, you will have to place additional equipment on the table according to the “mirror” principle.
Example of a workbench drawing
Selection of materials
Planed timber. Board.
A work desk is not installed in residential areas. And in the workshop there will definitely be changes in both temperature and humidity. That's why Wood recommended for making a workbench is hornbeam, beech, oak. The only disadvantage of this solution is the high cost of materials. You can choose a cheaper option - maple, larch. These rocks are quite hard. Although for the tabletop of a homemade workbench, if it is not planned to carry out any “impact” work on it, sometimes slab samples (chipboard, OSV) are taken. In principle, any good owner can easily determine what suits him best.
Wood that is too porous should not be used. Even high-quality treatment with antiseptics and oils will only increase the water-repellent properties, but will not add strength to the wood.
Fasteners
- Bolts. There are no particular difficulties with them. They must be of such length that reverse side it was possible to install a washer, a groover and a nut. It is more difficult with other types of fasteners.
- Nails. How advisable it is to use them when assembling a workbench with your own hands (and such recommendations are found quite often), everyone will determine for themselves. But a number of comments are worth making.
- Firstly, a nail, especially a large one, easily splits wood, especially if it is overdried.
- Secondly, it is unlikely to be able to drive it strictly vertically, given the length of the leg and the strength of the wood from which the workbench is made.
- Thirdly, it is difficult to dismantle. For example, if it is necessary to repair a desktop with replacement of a component. It is not always possible to pull out a tightly driven “powerful” nail.
- Self-tapping screws. For a small workbench - the best choice. The most “problem” areas can be additionally reinforced with metal strips, corners, and plates. The main thing is to correctly select the length of the fastener leg. There is a rule according to which it must exceed the thickness of the part being fastened by at least 3 times. Otherwise, the strength of the connection is in question.
Instructions for assembling a carpentry workbench
In the process of making a desktop with your own hands, the master must constantly, at every stage, control the angles and levels. The slightest distortion, even in one place, and everything will have to start all over again.
Making workbench parts
- This is easy to do using the dimensions shown in the drawing.
- Each sample is carefully polished.
- Depending on the type of wood, an impregnating composition is selected and parts are treated to protect them from destruction by rot and wood-boring insects.
- Drying. This is worth emphasizing. This process cannot be initiated using artificial heating, otherwise the workpieces will begin to deform - bend, twist. Moisture should evaporate only naturally - in a room with room temperature and good ventilation.
Assembling the supporting frame (workbench base)
Part of the fastening features have already been said - self-tapping screws + reinforcement elements. But still, the main method of fixation is a tongue-and-groove connection with wood glue. But the fasteners only add strength to the entire structure of the workbench. But this is only practiced for massive tables, which are not planned to be disassembled in the future (stationary options).
Here you should take into account the degree of maintainability of the workbench. If it is in a room with good conditions, it is unlikely that the wood will quickly begin to rot. In such cases adhesive connections quite justified. For work tables that are located in cold sheds, unheated boxes, and especially in the open air, “landing” with glue is undesirable. Partial repairs will not be possible, and you will have to reassemble the frame.
Additional reliability of the structure can be ensured by installing various jumpers - diagonal, horizontal. This is all thought out at the stage of drawing up the drawing, although “rework” can be done during the installation process.
Tabletop
This is the most loaded part of the workbench, and it is advisable to make it removable. In this case, it is easy (if there is significant damage) to replace 1 - 2 boards.
- The width of the tabletop is selected so that its surface extends slightly beyond the perimeter of the frame. Otherwise, working on such a workbench will be inconvenient. And it will no longer be possible to secure the removable vice.
- The sides of the boards are carefully sanded. If you do not achieve an accurate fit of the samples, you cannot avoid the appearance of cracks.
- The blanks are stacked front side down (on a flat base) and fastened with bars. They are placed perpendicular to the center lines of the boards, and the thickness of the latter allows them to be tightened with thick screws. IN as a last resort, at individual points it is easy to drill deep chamfers.
- To make the tabletop removable, it is fixed to the frame using metal corners.
- After its manufacture, additional grinding of the front part is performed. To extend the service life, it is advisable to treat the working surface with impregnating agents (wood oil, drying oil).
Workbench equipment
At what stage and what exactly needs to be done is decided depending on the modification of the desktop and the selected drawing. For example, the same vice. They can be purchased ones that are easy to attach to the edge of the workbench. People with experience in carpentry, make clamping devices themselves.
In principle, a man who is “friendly” with the simplest tools should not have any difficulties when assembling a carpentry workbench. The only recommendation is that before you start drawing up a drawing, you should carefully review all the photos of desktops available on the Internet.
Even if there are no sizes on them, it is not difficult to determine them. But with a high degree of probability we can say that new ones will appear, interesting ideas. After all, the workbench can also be folding, which is very convenient in a small box or shed. Yes, and having familiarized yourself with the table configuration, design features different models, you can come up with something of your own, original. After all, the beauty of assembling it yourself is in the absence of any canons. Only creativity + knowledge of the issue.
Design and purpose of the workbench
A carpentry workbench is a work table for manual and mechanical processing. wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: making wooden parts, assembling structures, coating them with finishing compounds. Traditional carpenter's table designed for working with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. To process longer workpieces, use a carpenter's workbench.
A table for carpentry work consists of a bench board (cover) and a bench (supporting frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.
There are holes in the table top and the wooden jaws of the vice. They are designed for installing clamps and stops of various sections and heights.
Having placed the stops in required configuration, the part is placed between them and pressed with the screw mechanism of the vice. This way the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness of the wooden part, use a stop of appropriate height that will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.
How to choose the optimal workbench height?
The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. Optimal height The table is selected based on the height of the master. If, standing at the workbench, your palms rest freely on its lid, then the size has been selected correctly. At such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.
What materials are best to make the structure from?
A carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to large loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are ensured not only by the features of the fastening units, but also the type of materials used.
Wood is traditionally used to make the base. coniferous species. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the bench board must be dry (humidity about 12%) without knots and other defects.
About making a workbench cover
Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to purchase a ready-made glued board, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the funds saved.
When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the lid: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately together with the workbench.
Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls
The sidewall design consists of two legs (B), drawers and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through-glued tenon.
The figured cutouts of the drawers and supports (detail A) are cut out on band saw followed by sanding the edges.
In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, markings are made on the legs for the tenons of the prongs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.
On the outside of the legs, a conical recess is machined for the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.
Sawing out tenons and eyes
Spikes and eyes are made on sawing machine or manually, guided by the basic principles of creating tenon joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a perfect fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared, flat surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.
The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.
Side panel assembly
Parts A and B are glued together to form a finished joint. After drying, any excess glue that appears is carefully cleaned off with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is sanded.
In the center of the glued drawer, drill a 19x38 mm hole for a dowel (L) to fix the workbench cover.
Manufacturing of pedestals and underbench shelves
According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for the legs (part C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As with the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw.
The connection of the legs with the sidewall is made detachable using a bolt tie with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and depth 32 mm is milled on the inside of the legs. A 14X95 mm hole is drilled at the ends of the legs. At this stage it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90°.
The support strips (parts D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 22 mm from the upper edges of the supports.
According to the dimensions specified in the “General detailing” drawing, the planks of the underbench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersunk at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.
Installation of the bench cover
There is no drilling on the back side of the bench board. through holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep for dowels (L).
Using a drill bit d19 mm, through holes are made on the cover for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the lid. All holes are chamfered. The stops should fit easily into the sockets and not have any play.
Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure clean holes at a perfectly right angle. It won’t be difficult to make such a guide yourself, if you have a piece of timber on hand.
Installation of a bench vise
Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to buy a carpenter's vice at finished form. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, you will get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.
Manufacturers of bench vices try to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will look at the installation diagram standard designs. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of a non-standard bench vise.
Vise jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - cut from wood hard rocks. After this, holes are drilled for the guide rods, lead screw, sockets for bench stops and holes for mounting screws.
The rear jaws of the front and rear vices are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.
Wooden linings (part K) are cut to fit the size of the vice. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.
Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces of masking tape and a soft pencil.
It's no secret that the well-equipped workplace- the key to successful performance of plumbing, electromechanical or installation work. The main item in a garage or workshop around which everything is arranged work zone, is a workbench. This desktop must have the necessary functionality, be durable and reliable. Purchase finished product in a retail chain can cost a pretty penny, so it’s better to make it yourself. This will make it possible not only to save money, but also to get a garage table in exact accordance with the requests for functionality and placement.
DIY workbench. How to do it?
Below we will tell you how to make a wooden or metal workbench with your own hands. The presented designs do not require the use of any scarce parts or the use of expensive equipment, and during the installation process you can get by with minimal carpentry and plumbing skills.
Making a workbench with your own hands (from wood)
Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands has a lot of advantages, which include the fact that you can arrange the locations of vices and other devices in advance, think about the number and location of drawers, etc.
Required tools and materials
For self-made workbench you need to prepare the following tools:
- electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
- electric drill and set of drills for wood and metal;
- carpenter's square;
- roulette;
- bubble level;
- set of wrenches.
- When stocking up on materials, be sure to ensure that the wooden parts do not have cracks or knots. To get started, you will need:
- bars for support legs 100x100 mm;
- two plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm (OSB can be used). In this case, one sheet will go on the table top, and the other on the lower shelf.
- boards 50x150 mm, from which the frame will be mounted;
- bolts (it is best to use furniture bolts, with a square part that prevents them from rotating in wooden parts);
- washers and nuts;
- self-tapping screws
To facilitate assembly and avoid errors when cutting material, it is better to make drawings of the workbench and indicate on it the dimensions of each part.
DIY workbench drawings
DIY workbench. Step-by-step instruction
First of all, you need to make top frame underframe. To do this, boards of the required length are sawn off in accordance with the drawing.
Using self-tapping screws, long and short parts are fastened in such a way as to obtain a rectangular frame. After this, measure the distance to its middle along the long side, where a spacer bar is installed. The same 50x150 mm board is used, which is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws at both ends.
DIY wooden workbench. Photo
Support legs The workbench is made of 6 identical bars. To attach them to the upper frame, long bolts with nuts and washers are used. To install the support, a block is placed in the corner of the frame and two through holes are drilled through the leg and the side board. Then the connections are tightened using bolts and nuts.
To achieve the required structural rigidity, lower boards are installed. By the way, these same details will also serve as the basis bottom shelf. To do this, in full accordance with the workbench drawings, 4 wooden parts with a cross-section of 50x150 mm are sawn off.
To secure the bottom boards, measure 30 cm from the edge of each support. At this height, one part is attached to the three rear legs of the structure, and from the front, the board is attached between the middle and side supports on the side where it will be installed additional shelf.
Two short boards are mounted at the same height on the sides of the workbench.
Using an electric jigsaw or hacksaw, parts are cut from sheets of OSB or plywood for table tops. It is attached flush to the top of the desktop using self-tapping screws. To protect the surface of the workbench from damage, a layer of hardboard is laid on top of the plywood, which can be easily replaced with new material as it wears out. To install the bottom shelf, measure the distance from the middle to the outer legs. The material is cut to this size and cutouts are made in its corners using a jigsaw or hacksaw. support legs. Attaching the shield to the lower base is carried out in the same way as installing a tabletop.
To obtain stability of the frame structure, when attaching supports and assembling the frame mechanic's workbench must be used carpenter's square. After installing the workbench, bubble level check its horizontal position. If necessary, the level can be changed by placing small pieces thin plywood under the legs.
DIY workbench. Step-by-step instruction
After assembly is completed, the workbench is impregnated with a special protective composition, varnished or painted.
A small workbench for the home with your own hands
The design of the mechanic's workbench proposed below will greatly facilitate metalworking and installation work not only in a small garage, but also on the balcony, in the corner of a utility room, etc. With all the functionality and convenience of a full-size workbench, it won't take up much space and can hold a variety of tools and gadgets in its drawers.
Tabletop small workbench It is made from two sheets of plywood glued together with a thickness of at least 18 mm and has dimensions of 1500x600 mm. To strengthen the table cover, it is additionally thickened at the edges with two layers of plywood sheet, giving a thickness of 72 mm.
Considering that plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is not the cheapest material (the cost of one sheet is about 1000 rubles), you can save a little if you buy a full-size sheet with dimensions of 2440x1220 mm. Unfortunately, this material is not enough to make the reinforcing strip that is located around the perimeter of the lid, so you will have to additionally look for a small piece of plywood sheet. Otherwise, the design of the tabletop will have to be changed.
When starting to build a small carpentry workbench with your own hands, prepare the following tools and materials:
- rule at least 2 m long;
- Circular Saw;
- carpenter's square;
- serrated spatula with tooth size 2x2 or 3x3 mm. Can buy ready-made tool or make it yourself using a grinder;
- screwdriver or set of screwdrivers;
- spanners;
- good wood glue, for example, “Moment Joiner”
- plywood 18mm thick;
- wooden beam 40x60 mm;
- self-tapping screws;
- bolts, nuts, washers.
In addition, to make a workbench yourself, you need to acquire good carpentry clamps, without which gluing plywood sheets will be problematic. If quality tool It is not possible to purchase; you can use inexpensive Chinese clamps, of which you will need double the amount.
The process of making a workbench with your own hands begins with covers, onto which a strip 1520 mm long is cut from a sheet of plywood 2440 mm long. By sawing this part, we obtain elements measuring 1520x610 mm to strengthen the sides of the lid. Then the plane is checked using the rule plywood sheets, in order to orient them with their convex surface inward when gluing.
The next stage will require maximum concentration and accuracy - within a couple of minutes you need to evenly distribute wood glue on the surface of one sheet of plywood. If you feel that lack of experience will not give you the opportunity to cope with this work in such a short time, then use wooden parts PVA furniture glue. It has no time restrictions and allows simple application. paint brush. Having prepared clamps and boards in advance to distribute the load over the entire plane, lay the bottom sheet on three boards, and after applying the adhesive, cover it with the top plywood board.
Having installed pressure boards on top, tighten the structure with clamps, constantly monitoring the flatness using the rule. It will not be possible to press the place in the center of the tabletop with a clamp, so it is left without load.
When gluing a board from several sheets of plywood, you can do without clamps if you place the structure on flat surface and press evenly over the entire plane with some kind of weight. After the glue has dried, the clamps or weights are removed and the next stage of making a workbench with your own hands begins.
So that the tabletop has a strict geometric shape when cutting it parquet flooring you have to be very careful. The rule can be applied as a guide bar for guiding a saw. When cutting the tabletop to dimensions of 1500x600 mm, maintain 90° angles using a carpenter's square or using the factory angles left over from cutting plywood as a template. Distribute the remaining scraps of plywood board into strips 150 mm wide. They will be needed to reinforce the perimeter of the tabletop, so glue them along the entire edge of the tabletop in two layers. In this case, the upper strips should overlap the joints of the lower sections of plywood.
For the manufacture of underframes timber with a cross section of 40x60 mm is used. In this case, the drawers and legs are made from solid lumber, and the supports are glued together from two pieces and one whole beam. The height of the workbench is chosen taking into account your height, since there should be no inconvenience or discomfort when using it. In our case, the height of the workbench from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop is 900 mm.
Next, glue the legs and assemble two frames. In this case, it is important to maintain the perpendicularity of the connections, since if they deviate from right angle the geometry of the structure will be disrupted. It will be easier to achieve this condition if, even at the trimming stage, the angles of all parts are strictly 90°. In our workbench, the frame width is 900 mm, and the height of the support legs is 830 mm. The gap from the floor to the bottom rung should be 150 mm.
After the glue has dried, the frames are mounted on the tabletop and secured with clamps. Then the legs are set strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the bottom surface of the plywood panel and another set of legs and drawers are cut out. To fasten the structure to the tabletop, use 8x120 mm self-tapping screws.
The stability of the workbench can be increased if the legs and drawers are additionally fastened with the same screws. By choosing a recess for the head of the hardware with a feather drill, the joints are ensured to be aesthetically pleasing.
The workbench is almost ready. If desired, you can make a box for storing tools in its underframe.
DIY metal workbench for the garage
A workbench made of steel has the necessary strength and reliability required when working with metal products. This desktop can add functionality to any garage or workshop.
Materials and tools
To start making a workbench for your garage with your own hands, you should acquire the following plumbing tools:
- angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
- welding machine;
- building level;
- electric jigsaw;
- drill with a set of drills;
- screwdriver;
- measuring tool.
DIY metal workbench drawings
Some materials needed for a workbench can be found in the garage, and the missing parts can be purchased on the construction market. You will need:
- steel corners 50x50x4 and 40x40x2;
- profile pipe 60x40x2;
- steel strip 40x4 mm;
- steel sheets 2200x750x2 mm;
- boards 50 mm thick;
- 15mm plywood and drawer guides;
- metal screws and bolts.
In addition, prepare paint and rust converter to make the product look aesthetically pleasing and protect the metal from moisture.
Step-by-step instructions for making a metal workbench
Cutting the material. A profile pipe is cut onto the frame. Steel angle is used to strengthen the structure and edging the tabletop. The metal strip is needed as guide elements for the side panels and for making table drawer brackets.
Frame welding. A rectangular tabletop frame is mounted from pipes 2200 and 750 mm long, connected in pairs. At the same time, it is taken into account that on top of the frame it will be necessary to weld the corners into which the boards of the working surface are laid. To strengthen the frame, sections are welded every 400 mm steel pipes as stiffeners.
How to make a workbench with your own hands from metal. Photo
At the edges of the table, support legs 900 mm long are mounted by welding, which are reinforced at the bottom with jumpers from a corner or profile pipe.
The frames of the workbench drawers are welded to the legs on both sides.
Corners for edging are installed on the tabletop frame, and then secured with a welding joint.
From a corner 2200 mm long and 4 corners 950 m long, a sheathing of a power vertical panel for tools is arranged.
The finished frame is strengthened brackets made of steel bars, which are welded to its sides. To strengthen you will need 24 elements. Additionally, it is necessary to drill holes in each strip for mounting the side and rear plywood walls.
Plywood is cut into parts to make boxes, after which they are assembled using self-tapping screws. The number of drawers and their location depends on the specific need and personal preferences of the owner.
After assembling the drawers, metal strips with holes for attaching the slides are welded to the sides of the frame.
All welds and sharp corners pass with a grinder with a grinding wheel installed, and rusty areas of rolled metal are cleaned with a metal brush attachment.
The metal frame is treated with an anti-corrosion compound and painted with weather-resistant paint.
The boards are cut to the length of the tabletop and placed in a frame made from a corner. To prevent rotting and damage to wood by insects, the boards are treated antiseptic composition.
The lumber is laid in the prepared bed, leaving 2-3 mm gaps between the wood and the metal to allow the wood to expand when swelling. After this, the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws.
The top steel sheet is treated on both sides with a rust converter, and after drying it is attached to wooden tabletop self-tapping screws.
The table drawers are painted and installed on the guides, and the side and back plywood trim is attached.
After the workbench is made, a vice and other things are installed necessary equipment, attach hooks to place the tool.
What is a workbench
A workbench is a table designed for work related to the manufacture and installation of products made of wood, metal and other materials. Workbenches are often additionally equipped with equipment for fastening workpieces, drawers and shelves for storing tools and accessories. Depending on the intended purpose, there are carpentry and metalworking workbenches for working with wood and metal, respectively. Work tables for workshops and garages can be single or multi-seat. Workbenches designed for one workplace have a width of up to 0.8 m and a length of up to 1.5 m. The dimensions of multi-person benches increase according to the number of people working at them. The distance of the working surface from the floor is usually 0.8 - 0.9 m, however, there are also designs with adjustable height. Workbenches are most often made of metal or wood, and their tabletops are covered with sheets of plywood, hardboard, galvanized sheet, boards and other materials.
1. Glue together the front beam from several layers A and cut to final size (Fig. 1 And 1a). Then mill grooves 19 mm wide and 41 mm deep into it (Fig. 1a, photo A And IN).
Quick tip! Do not glue the parts of the milling machine jig-template, and fasten them only with screws. The template will again be needed to make grooves in the rear vise block, which is wider than the front cover beam.
From a couple of scraps of thick board and 12mm thick material, assemble a simple template for routing grooves at a 2° angle, which will become holes for the bench stops.
When routing the grooves in the front beam using a 12mm helical router bit and a 19mm coping sleeve, remove material a little at a time, gradually increasing the depth.
2. Cut out the trim IN and glue it to the front beam, aligning the right ends of the parts. Carefully remove any squeezed out excess glue.
3. Using the template that is usually supplied with the front vise, mark and drill holes for the rods (Photo C, Fig. 1).
Position the mounting template so that the vise holes do not intersect the bench stop holes in the A/B front rail. Mark the centers of the holes with an awl.
Note. This project uses front and rear vicesLee Valley. They differ good quality manufacturing, smooth operation and come with detailed instructions on installation.
4. Now make the cover shield WITH, lower pads for front D and rear E vice, spacer F and rear beam G. Glue the trims, rear rail, spacer and front rail to the cover (Fig. 1).
5. Make the left and right tips N, I (Fig. 2). Form 36mm wide by 57mm deep dowels along one edge of the ends and drill 12mm holes.
Quick tip! To quickly create clean, tidy rabbets, remove most of the material with a mortise disc, then sand down the sides and bottom using a router table.
6. Mill the ends of the lid A-G folds on both sides 57 mm wide and 36 mm deep (photoD), to form ridges that are inserted into the tongues of the tips N, I.
Use the tip as a guide to rout the folds on the lid. Be careful not to touch the front trim B with the cutter.
7. Place the left tip on the comb N, pushing it towards the front pad IN. Right tip I align with the front edge of the shield WITH. Mark the centers of the 12mm holes (photo E). Remove the tips and use an awl to mark other centers, moving them 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the combs (photoF). Draw parallel lines, retreating 6 mm on both sides from each mark left by the awl, so that the distance between the lines is 12 mm.
Use the point of a 12mm drill bit to transfer the centers of the holes in the H, I tips to the ridges of the cover.
Move the centers of the holes 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the comb so that, when driving in the dowels, the tip and the cap are tightened more tightly.
Using a thin round rasp, work all the holes except the first one. Do not go beyond the parallel lines so that the parts fit together tightly.
8. Drill 12mm holes according to the markings. Then, starting with the second hole (counting from the front edge of the lid), increase it by 2 mm in both directions, without going beyond the parallel lines, to create an oval 16 mm long. Do the same with the other holes, increasing the length of each next one by 1.5 mm in both directions (photoG, rice. 2). This will allow the lid to change its width with seasonal fluctuations in humidity. At the right tip I make a 57x165mm cutout flush with the bottom of the spacer F and the end of the bottom pad E.
9. Put on the tips N, I onto the ridges and secure with 12mm hardwood dowels, driving them into the holes without using glue. Saw off the protruding ends of the dowels flush with the top and bottom edges of the tips.
Quick tip! To make it easier to install the tips, take dowels of increased length and make narrowings at their ends.
Add a vise
1. From scraps, assemble a frame that will limit the area of movement of the router when making a recess in the bottom pad D for front vice (photo N). Mark the recess so that it is located at a distance of 70 mm from the front edge of the cover, and its middle coincides with the center big hole for the vice screw.
Use a 12mm helix bit to select a 57x305x406mm recess for the vise mechanism. Rearrange the cuttings supporting the router as necessary.
Separate the back plate to insert the vise mechanism into place. Then install it again and the operation is complete.
2. Cut out the block J for the movable jaw of the front vice. Drill holes in the block, marking them according to the template you used earlier, positioning it so that the left end of the block is aligned with the left edge of the lid.
3. Mill along the ends of the movable jaw J fillet with a shoulder and attach the front vise to the cover, following the instructions (photo I). Reinstall the standard handle-lever.
4. Cut the block to the specified dimensions TO for rear vise. Rework the milling jig you used before and form grooves 19 mm wide and 41 mm deep at an angle in the block (Fig. 3 And 3a).
5. Saw out the trim L for rear vise. Drill into the block TO 10mm through holes with 25mm counterbores (Fig. 3 And Behind). Pressing the trim against the block with clamps, mark the centers of the holes on it using a 10 mm drill through the holes in the block. Then drill 16mm diameter holes at the marked points. Note. Our method is slightly different from that described in the instructions and requires the use of washers and plugs that are not included with the vice. By doing this, we hid the bolt heads under the plugs rather than leaving them in plain sight.
6. Glue the overlay L to the block K (photoJ) and carefully remove any squeezed out adhesive from the bench stop holes.
Precisely align the holes of block K with the holes of the cover L. To avoid spending a lot of time removing excess glue, apply it evenly in a thin layer.
7. Attach the assembled block K/L together with the rear vice mechanism into place, following the instructions. Close the bolt heads with plugs and install the standard lever handle.
Make bench stops
1. Cut out 17 stops according to the dimensions specified in the “List of Materials” M and 17 springs N. We chose cherry wood for the stops, as it retains the required strength for a long time, does not leave dents on parts, and its color contrasts well with the wood white oak from which the workbench lid is made. Dense and elastic wood, such as maple, is suitable for springs.
2. To give the stops the required shape, make copies of the template, enlarging them 2 times. Then glue the springs to the stops. Check how the assembled stops fit into the holes and adjust them if necessary. They should be removed and recessed without much effort and still remain at the desired height. To learn more about them, read the article “Bench Stops” published in this issue of the magazine.
Let's go to the bottom
Note. Before you start making, measure and write down the dimensions of the recess on the underside of the lid. The top of the cabinet base should fit tightly into this recess. If it cannot be inserted, you will need to resize it to fit the recess or widen the edges of the recess for final assembly.
1. Cut out the shelves according to the dimensions specified in the “List of Materials” ABOUT, partitions R and edge trims Q, R. Glue trims to shelves and partitions (Fig. 4). Then glue the shelves O/Q to the partitions P/R and additionally secure with screws.
2. Cutting out the plinth boards S and kings T, glue them to the O-R partition shelf assembly.
3. From 19mm plywood lined with cherry veneer, cut out the side and back walls U, V. Glue it in place first side walls, securing with additional screws, then add the back wall, using only glue to attach it.
4. Note. Check the dimensions of the assembled frame before cutting the crossbars, posts, and trims to ensure that the lengths listed in the Bill of Materials are correct for your project. We advise you to cut out the detailsW— GG with a small allowance in length, and then adjust them in place.
Cut out the top and bottom rails W, X, as well as racks Y (Fig. 5). Glue the top and bottom rails to the base at the front, then add the posts.
5. Now cut out the back crossbars Z, AA, racks BB, middlemen SS and side bars DD, EE. Glue the bottom rear crossbar AA and mullions to the rear wall V (photo K). After this, glue the back one in place. top bar and racks, then the side lower crossbars with mullions to the side walls and, finally, the upper side crossbars and racks.
Use a couple of thick, straight-edged pieces of wood to press the CC mullions tighter against the back wall.
6. At the corners of the body, mill 10 mm chamfers ending at the joints of the crossbars with the racks (Fig. 6).
Before connecting the base boards, you need to saw off the bevels on the slats glued on top. After this, you can begin milling the fillets.
7. Cut the side, front and back plinth boards from 19mm cherry boards FF, GG the specified length with an allowance of about 3 mm in width. Then saw off a 19x19mm strip from the top edge of each plinth board and mark the pieces so you can put them in place later. Finally, make the connections " dovetail" to fasten the plinth boards (Fig. 6a).Note. If instead of dovetail spikes you decide to make simple connections To be sure, cut out the base boards to the specified width (without allowance) and do not saw off the lath from them on top.
8. Saw miter bevels only on the slats for the side plinth boards, without shortening them. Glue each of them to the corresponding part from which it was sawn. Then glue the slats without the bevels to the front and back plinth boards. Bevel just the top of the front and back plinth boards so that they fit snugly into the side plinth boards. The bevel edge should be close to the marking line, and precise matching of parts can be achieved by adjustment, removing material little by little (photoL). Then route a 19mm fillet with a 3mm offset along the top edge of all the plinth boards.
9. Glue the plinth boards to the base. You may need to use screws or nails to attach them if you have beveled the ends instead of dovetails.
Add doors
1. Cut out the crossbars NN, racks II and panels JJ specified sizes (Fig. 7).
2. Make tongues 6mm wide and 12mm deep along the center of the inner edges of all posts and crossbars. Then form tenons 6mm thick and 12mm long at the ends of the crossbars.
3. Assemble the doors by gluing the posts, crossbars and panels together. Once the glue has dried, check how the doors fit into the base opening and adjust them if necessary. Then mill 5x5 mm folds on the top and bottom edges of the doors with inside, as well as 10x5 mm folds on racks where there are no hinges. These folds leave enough space between the doors and the cabinet to install magnetic latches.
Attach the doors to the cabinet using overhead hinges and reinstall the magnetic latches.
Lower the lid onto the base
1. Invite three strong friends to help lift the heavy workbench cover and place it on the base. There is no need to fix it - thanks to its massiveness and precise fit, it is well held in place.
2. Once you've installed your new workbench in your workshop, get started on your next project right away and you'll be able to enjoy your time in the workshop even more!
A garage is a multifunctional space. In it you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.
If a person likes to spend time in the garage doing repair work, he needs to properly equip his workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional work table on which you can process various materials, carry out plumbing, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can consider shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.
Types of workbenches
Workbenches are made for processing metal (metalwork) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For metalwork models, the table top must be metal, since working with metal involves the use of machine oil and other liquids that wooden surface may leave marks.
Also, when processing metal parts, force and the use of sharp tools are often required, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal tabletop.
Woodworking benches are designed for working with wood, so they are not as durable or functional as bench models.
Workbench design
If the design of a work table for a garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully think through every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the garage table depends on this.
Standard models are often equipped drawers, which can be made from wood or metal. Also, the table design can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tool, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.
Tool
Screwdriver.
Jigsaw for cutting plywood.
Grinder with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.
Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective equipment for welding work.
Materials
Angle 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.
Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.
Angle 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.
Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.
Steel sheet for tabletop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.
Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.
Wooden boards for the table top. Thickness 50 mm.
Plywood for making drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15 mm
Guides for desk drawers.
Screws for assembling plywood boxes.
Self-tapping screws for metal.
Anchor bolts.
Paint for wood and metal.
The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: table length is 220 cm, width - 75 cm. The overall design and large table top allow you to place it in different ends table vise and, for example, sandpaper or other tool.
The first step in making a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. Profile pipe intended for the manufacture of frames. The steel angle is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.
The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. This material will also be used for brackets for fastening boxes and plywood.
Table drawers are made of plywood.
Second step - welding power frame workbench. The tabletop elements are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the tabletop, it is necessary to weld several more steel pipes after 40 cm, which will serve as stiffeners.
Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power bridges are welded between the legs to strengthen the structure.
Once the basic frame is ready, you can begin welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. The frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.
The third step is making a frame for the tabletop. Two steel angles, 2200 mm long, and two more angles, 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards fit inside it.
The angle frame is laid on a pipe frame and welded. The result is a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.
The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, all that remains is to weld the panel sheathing for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle for reinforcement. The tool panel is welded to the tabletop.
The frame of corners and pipes is ready. You can begin to strengthen the structure. Brackets are welded to the sides of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls plywood tables will be attached to metal frame workbench.
The fourth stage is making drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are screwed together with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If small parts, then you can build 3 boxes, if large, then 2. It all depends on personal preference.
Drawers can be placed on both sides of the table, or mounted on one half retractable structures, and on the second there are ordinary open shelves.
After the drawers are assembled, you need to weld metal strips with holes between the sides of the drawer compartments. The slides for the drawer guides will be attached to these holes on the inside.
The fifth stage is laying the boards into the tabletop frame. Boards 50 mm thick are cut into pieces of a certain length. If you have a long board available, then you need three blanks with a width of 245 mm and a length of 2190 mm. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 pieces 740 mm long.
Before laying the wood into the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.
Then it is imperative to paint the entire metal structure workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weather-resistant and anti-corrosion coating option. Welding seams need to be painted especially carefully. Drops of metal and unevenness are recommended before painting works clean thoroughly. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.
After the structure has dried, you can begin laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that wood tends to expand and dry out when temperature and humidity change. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will make it easier to lay the metal sheet on top of the wood. The boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
The sixth stage is fastening the top steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden screws to wooden boards. The metal must first be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paint coating, is easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal tabletop with the same paint that was used to cover the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time the paint may scratch and the table will not look very new.
The last stage is installing the drawers on the guides and attaching the plywood to the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called finishing workbench. After work with plywood is completed, it must be coated with a composition that will protect the material from exposure environment. Also, do not forget about the design of a power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, from which the necessary things will be hung.
To make it convenient to work at a workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bendable stand to the power panel. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the desired location.
Video - The process of making a workbench
Installing a vice on a bench
A vice is an indispensable attribute of a mechanic's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool that weighs several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket 1 cm thick between the metal of the table and the tool. You need to drill holes in the gasket for the anchor bolts. Then, in the same places, drill holes of the same size in the tabletop. The entire structure is fastened with anchor bolts.
Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design
- If the garage area is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But it is worth knowing that the entire structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
- The workplace should be organized so that nothing disturbs a person. When working with a vice, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the tabletop.
- Corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp or have cutting edges.
- After repair work behind the workbench, you need to clear the workplace from metal shavings, drops of oil and other materials.
- If homemade workbench made correctly, it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.
Plywood for board
Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage
